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The
Malt Maniacs Monitor
(PDF,
printable, 4.6MB, sorted alphabetically, updated Feb 21, 2010)
The file
contains 286 pages.
At the moment, we have collected 40,504
ratings on 13,007 different single malts and whiskies.
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Serge's
Statistics
Shack
The
data on the MMMonitor allows us Malt Maniacs to play around
with the numbers for our own amusement. Please note that only
the results and conclusions published on Malt Maniacs are
'official'. However, these statistics are often used as the
foundation for our 'official' opinions.
Top
Maniacal Malts
Recent bottlings
version
Old
bottlings version
( updated 06/08/2009)
We've
taken all the malts that have been sampled by at least six
different certified malt maniacs and simply ranked them from
'best' to 'worst'. Please note that these results can be very
different than our Awards', the latter addressing only malts
that have been submitted by the industry, whereas most of
the malts on the monitor have been, yes... bought by us!
Strange
Bits on Bottlers
(updated
06/08/2009)
As
we already came up with around 32,000 ratings in June 2009,
we felt we could try to come up with a ranking of the various
bottlers. Nothing really official or too serious, though,
especially because the bottles' prices have not been taken
into account and because a bottler that specializes in rare
and expensive whiskies will be 'advantaged' anyway. But if
you're a number crusher, please go ahead and browse the list!
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The Magical History
of the Great
Brora Distillery
1969 - 1983
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All the linked files (mp3, video, html) are
located on free commercial or non-commercial third party websites.
Some pictures are taken from these websites, and are believed
to be free of rights, as long as no commercial use is intended.
I
always try to write about artists who, I believe, deserve
wider recognition, and all links to mp3 files are here to
show you evidence of that. Please encourage the artists you
like, by buying either their CDs or their downloadable 'legal'
tracks.
I
always add links to the artists' websites - if any - which
should help you know more about their works. I also try to
add a new link to any hosting website or weblog which helped
me discover new music - check the column on the right.
I
almost never upload any mp3 file on my own server, except
when dealing with artists I personally know, and who gave
me due authorizations, or sometimes when I feel a 'national'
artist deserves wider recognition. In that case, the files
will remain on-line only for a few days.
I
do not encourage heavy consumption of alcoholic beverages,
nor dangerous motorbike riding. But life is short anyway...
As
they say here: 'L'abus d'alcool est dangeureux pour la santé
- à consommer avec modération' |
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Leave
feedback |
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Copyright
Serge Valentin,
Nick Morgan,
Kate Kavannagh
2002-2012
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May 18, 2012 |
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Tasting old malt vs. old grain from Lochside distillery |
We'll start with the malt because it's stronger - but we might have started with the grain because it ought to be lighter… We'll see… |
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Lochside 1967/2012 (41.7%, Malts of Scotland, bourbon hogshead, cask #MoS12016, 115 bottles)  This is Lochside malt. I think it's only the second time I try a 1967, while there were quite a few 1965s and, above all, 1966s around. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it's not a 1966, i.e. not a fruitbomb - at all - and rather a slightly phenolic one, relatively discreet, subtle, balanced… It smells a bit like malt from an old bottle I must say, with touches of metal and a little soot, with the expected fruitiness rather more in the background (mangos - that metallic feeling again). Old tools, cloth, pine needles, fresh quinces, juniper berries, moss, fresh mushrooms… Frankly, it's no big whisky but the complexity is quite amazing. I'm very, very curious about the palate… Mouth: perfect! We're exactly at the stage when the oak's about to get a tad 'too much', but isn't yet, which is a magical moment in my opinion, because there are many spices while none is drying yet (esp. cinnamon). Other than that, we have Chartreuse, bitter lemons, white pepper, turmeric, ginger and then more and more grapefruit (and its skin). The oak sings louder and louder but everything remains harmonious and balanced (okay, barely, but still…) Finish: it's where the oak takes control but it's still more than bearable. Comments: love the nose, love the attack, like the middle, am a notch more sceptical about the finish but that's not uncommon with 45 years old whiskies. Still a marvel. SGP:471 - 89 points. |
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Lochside 42 yo 1963 (45.2%, Clan Denny, cask #HH2243, single grain. +/-2005)  As you may know, Clan Denny is a Douglas Laing brand and… HH means Hogshead. This is no malt, it's grain, as Lochside, just like its sister distillery Ben Nevis, was also fitted with column stills in the 1960s. Colour: full gold. Nose: I don't think we've ever been closer to some great old bourbon, although this is probably a little lighter and fresher and less on heavy vanilla and corn syrup. Maybe it is to be remembered that in the old days, grain whisky was used to season newish casks before filling them with malt, as using active oak with very complex malt whiskies was seen as a no-no. The times they are changing… Well, I think the old guys were right! Anyway, this nose is absolutely superb, with many herbs, dried fruits, pine sap, liquorice, aniseed, dill, kumquats, vanilla, old Sauternes, apricots… In truth, I think it's one of nicest grains I've ever nosed. Mouth: same phenomenon as with the malt. Starts sweet and kind of smooth, delivers quite a few fruity notes and gets then sort of tannic, green and drying, but the fruity (lactones) base is solid enough to keep it all balanced and fresh this time. Yeah, bananas flambéed and all that jazz. Finish: quite long, very bourbonny at this point. Banana skin and maple syrup, with slightly resinous aftertaste. Pepper. Comments: a beauty. The palate plays with the limits but it's a genuine Indiana Jones of a whisky. One of the best grains I've ever tasted. SGP:551 - 90 points. |
MUSIC
- Recommended listening: this smells of the good old 1970s and there are several quotes. I like it coz it's not hard rock - is it? He's Ash Grunwald and he's playing The devil called me a liar. Please buy Ash Grunwald's music. |
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May 16, 2012 |
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Tasting three independent Glen Moray |
Another bran… excuse me, distillery that's up thanks to the indies. |
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Glen Moray 21 yo 1989/2010 (46%, Mo Or Collection, bourbon barrel, cask #7277, 419 bottles)  Colour: white wine. Nose: ultra-typical start on muesli and porridge, with the oak's vanilla roaring in the background (right, whispering) and very pleasant notes of overripe apples. Goes on with barley sugar, a little lemon and grapefruit as well as just hints of cardboard and tea. The epitome of a nice grainy profile, very close to sweet barley. Very pleasant freshness. Mouth: good body, good attack, nervous, citrusy and spicy, a profile that gives it some kind of Indian profile. Schweppes, ginger, cardamom, caraway seeds and citrons. The whole is very clean, very straightforward but certainly not too simple. Likeable. Finish: medium long, more on lemon zests and a bit of green pepper. Comments: it's got something of some excellent gin, I'd say. A perfect example of a middle-aged Glen Moray from excellent wood. SGP:451 - 85 points. |
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Glen Moray 1991//2012 (57.3%, Berry Bros & Rudd, cask #5654) I liked this baby very much when I previewed it. Colour: white wine/straw. Nose: we're extremely close to the 1989 but this one goes to eleven while remaining fresh, clean and balanced. Nice ripe kiwis, muesli, mint, barley water and rocks/soda water. More oranges and tangerines after a while, maybe more squash actually. With water: more grain, yeast, beer… Very Glen Moray again. Not feinty! Mouth (neat): same as the 1989, only bigger, more nervous of course, and with more tangerines and grapefruits, which might give it something faintly 'chemical' at times - nothing embarrassing that is. With water: excellently zesty, another one that swims like a champ. A tad mojito-esque, I'd say, which is great in this context (less so at 4am in a little Paris street - just making that up of course). Finish: medium, clean, zesty, 'green', freshly bitter. Comments: same overall quality. Maybe something of old Rosebanks. SGP:451 - 85 points. |
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Glen Moray 1977/2012 (52.1%, Malts of Scotland, bourbon hogshead, cask #MoS12021, 172 bottles) Labelled as Glen Morey, but that's probably a funny typo, nothing to do with the stellar wines of Morey-St-Denis in Burgundy ;-). Colour: straw. Nose: a perfect example of what American oak can do on the long run when everything's under control. More citrus fruits, tangerines, papayas and passion fruits on a layer of patchouli and just hints of 'old wardrobe' (with a few mothballs). Some meat as well… cold cuts? With water: great fresh oak, broken branches and roots, 'clean' earth, just touches of fresh coconut, sweet potatoes… Great vegetal profile. Mouth (neat): unsurprisingly, the oak's louder than in the 1989 and 1991, it's even a little green and acrid but that goes well with the citrus fruits. Rhubarb and cardamom? With water: same, only louder. I like this kind of green bitterness but it's probably not for everyone. Finish: long, on herbal liqueurs and green oak. Obvious tannicity. Comments: the oak's a tad heavy on the palate but I loved the nose. SGP:361 - 86 points. |
MUSIC
- Recommended listening: a bit of reggae again today, with our own Serge Gainsbourg who had flown to Jamaica to record Overseas Telegram and other tunes around 1978. Yes I know, many were doing that at the time... Anyway, please buy SG's music. |
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May 14, 2012 |
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Tasting three bitter royals from the Highlands |
There's a new old official Glenury Royal at very high strength, probably a good excuse for having two other royals as aperitifs, an official Lochnagar and a Brackla by G&M. |
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Lochnagar 12 yo (70° proof, OB, 75.7cl, 1970s) An old version of this well-known official. 75.7cl equals 26 2/3 FL.OZS. Please note this one was named Lochnagar instead of Royal Lochnagar. Colour: straw. Nose: extremely old style, that is to say mineral, flinty and tarry. A lot of paraffin, linseed oil, motor oil, then touches of gueuze beer and apple compote as well as whiffs of fresh mint and dill. Classic and really beautiful and… out of fashion. Sadly! Mouth: amazingly rich at 40%, mineral again, oily, peppery, beautifully bitter. To tell you the truth, it's got something of Old Clynelish. Some salt, more rocks, cardamom seeds, pine sap… Really superb. Finish: amazingly long, pleasantly bitterish, with a wild, very mineral, peaty and pretty salty aftertaste. Comments: a huge surprise. The current Royal Lochnagar 12 is good whisky but this older version just came from another planet. Let's try to unearth the remaining bottles! SGP:273 - 90 points. |
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Royal Brackla 1970 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, old map label, +/-1990)  A 1970/1986 has been a tad weak (WF 70) a few years ago. Colour: gold. Nose: starts curiously smoky and medicinal. Aspirin tablets, waxed paper, burning plastic, antiseptic, and then tons of cut grass. Very austere, very dry, with something of Tio Pepe. Also brine, sea water… A strange nose, interesting but not very sexy. Mouth: same 'chemical' profile, plastic-like, kind of burnt. Parma violets, cologne, pomegranates and burnt herbs. A little difficult… Finish: rather long but very bitter and acrid. Chlorophyll, Underberg, our beloved artichoke liqueur (yes I know…) Comments: intellectually interesting, organoleptically wrecked. Erm… SGP:172 - 65 points. |
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Glenury Royal 40 yo 1970/2011 (59.4%, OB, refill American oak, 1,500 bottles) There used to be an excellent 1970 in the Rare Malts series that I had called "a mini-Talisker" back in 2005. Well well well… Anyway, these bottles are beautiful, rather 'anti-bling' if you see what I mean. Colour: gold. Nose: we're much closer to the Lochnagar than to the Brackla, although this baby starts more on leather and walnuts, with unexpected whiffs of capers and samphires. Very peculiar, must come from the oak. Then more wood smoke, dark toffee and coffee, chocolate… Easy nosing at such high strength. Yet, with water: ho-ho, we got very close to the Lochnagar now. This one has just a little more humus and aniseed. Swims like a champ. Touches of maraschino coming through after a few minutes. Mouth (neat): Cointreau and coffee, with some cured ham in the background. Sounds weird? It isn't, quite the opposite… The oak does a large part of the job but it does it well, imparting notes of cedar wood, cigar, bacon (a lot!) and really a lot of bitter chocolate. Yet it's not drying or bitter, not at all… And it's surprisingly drinkable at such high strength. With water: gets sweeter and rounder although the oak never gives up. Great notes of gentian and other rooty/bitter stuff. Finish: long, with more mint and cough lozenges from the oak. The chocolate is back in the aftertaste, together with lemon zests and more mint. After Eights? Comments: I think it's very difficult to keep an old whisky balanced when the oak's quite loud but this baby is a success in this respect. And frankly, at around £500, it's kind of fairly priced for an OB. Recommended unless you hate oak. SGP:372 - 90 points. |
| PETE
McPEAT AND JACK WASHBACK |
MUSIC
- Recommended listening: a little fun with a band that's not The Rolling Stones, rather Holland's The Bintangs. They're playing Ridin' on the L&N and you would swear you could hear Kieff and Mick. Please buy the Bintangs' music. |
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May 11, 2012 |
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Tasting two Auchentoshan from Bordeaux |
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Auchentoshan 1999 'Bordeaux Cask Matured' (58%, OB, +/-2011)  This one was fully matured in Bordeaux wood, not sure it was first fill though. Colour: gold, apricoty. Nose: well, this one does not quite scream ‘claret!’ or ‘cab!’ at first nosing, although it’s not 100% Scotch malt whisky. Indeed raspberries and blackcurrant are soon to get quite loud and so are blood oranges and marmalade, which gives the whole a feeling of sangria. Olé! Star anise, cinchona, Schweppes… Frankly, this isn’t unpleasant, it’s just, well, something else. With water: the spirit manages to say something now. Traces of barley water, yeast and bread. Mouth (neat): bubblegum, pepper and ginger. Strawberry drops, Jell-O, raspberry eau-de-vie, juniper berries, caraway seeds. Very weird if you ask me, this premix is even less ‘Scotch’ than before. Sponge cake. With water: becomes ultra-sweet and sugary. Not whisky, candy. Finish: long, as if you had three or five strawberry drops in your mouth. Comments: this is not why I’m into whisky, it’s more a matter of mixology in my opinion. Having said that, it’s a pleasant, flawless cocktail. SGP:850 - 78 points. |
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Auchentoshan 1988 'Bordeaux Wine Finish' (52.4%, OB, 2009)  This one spent only eight years in bourbon and then twelve years in Saint-Julien (probably Lagrange as it belongs to Suntory). More than just a finish if you ask me, it spent more time in Bx barrels than the 1999… Colour: apricoty. Nose: we’re more or less in the same territories. Maybe this is a little less sweetish/fruity/bubblegummy, and a little more on cut grass and leaves. More green tannins, more mint. With water: old wine cellar, old wood, mushrooms, Seville oranges and cinchona. Roots. Mouth (neat): creamy, rich, extremely liqueurish and jammy. Sweets and deserts, squash, pomegranates, cranberry juice and green pepper… With water: again, grassier and more complex than the 1999. More earth, farmy notes, spices, mint, liquorice… Finish: long, gingery, spicy. Bitter oranges in the aftertaste. Comments: I think this one is better balanced, although it’s still very unusual Scotch. Well, is it really Scotch? SGP:651 - 80 points. |
MUSIC
- Recommended listening: I know this is very un-Whiskyfun but after thirty-five years, I've listened to Pavlov's Dog's Julia again this morning, and, well, I felt like a teenager again. I'll try not to do this again... In the meantime, please buy Pavlov's Dog's music. |
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May 9, 2012 |
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Tasting two rare ones from William Grant’s |
A Balvenie that’s rare because it’s an independent bottling and a Kininvie that’s rare because, well, there's been very few bottlings of Kininvie so far. |
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Balvenie 16 yo 1973/1989 (46%, Dun Eideann, cask #3488) This baby also existed as a 'straight' Signatory Vintage bottling. Colour: gold. Nose: a rather farmier, less creamy, more metallic version of Balvenie although the notes of ripe plums and apricots are well there, together with some acacia honey and quite some vanilla crème. Becomes more and more custardy after a few minutes, rounder, sweeter, more honeyed and… more Balvenie. Well in the lush style of the early 1970s now. Nectar and pollen. Mouth: it's rather simpler, grassier, much less luscious, rounded and sweet than expected. The oak's maybe a tad loud (sawdust, flour) and it just seems to block the 'inherent fruitiness', making the whole frankly tea-ish although there seems to be some nice notes of fresh oranges in the background. Finish: medium long, drying, pretty tannic. In other words, plankish. Comments: pretty great nose, rather unbalanced palate, we know that song. SGP:461 - 77 points. |
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Kininvie 'Hazelwood Reserve' 17 yo 1990/2008 (52.5%, OB, sherry, 500 bottles)  There are very few bottlings of Kininvie. You had an indie Aldunie a long time ago, then an off-commerce 15 (WF 75 but other Maniacs liked it much better), and then this 17 and maybe one or two others. BTW, Kininvie doesn't seem to distil much these days. Colour: deep amber. Nose: starts very chocolaty and, just like the Balvenie, rather metallic. Tin box, water, limestone, then more plum eau-de-vie and strawberries, a little hay, dried mushrooms (boletus powder), flor, walnuts… It changes fast, with the fino-ish notes getting more and more obvious (not saying it was fino wood of course). Interesting! With water: more dry sherry, which I like. Mouth (neat): nice attack, nervous and fruity, maybe a tad spirity, with a sweeter sherriness and something slightly kirschy. Then more bitter oranges and ginger. The whole is rather rough but quite pleasant. With water: swims well! More classic marmalade and dried fruits (figs), as well as white pepper and turmeric. The oak's more obvious too but it's a nice one. Cinnamon. Finish: medium long, with more chocolate, oranges, white pepper and cinnamon. Spicy aftertaste, cocoa powder. Comments: it's more than all right, but I think the oak did a large part of he job. Needs water but what's sure is that I like it better than the older 15yo. SGP:551 - 83 points. |
MUSIC
- Recommended listening: Morrocan-Algerian star Chaba Zahouania sings Goulov Limma (that was also on the OST of Bertolucci's f The Sheltering Sky). Please buy Chaba Zahouania's music. |
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May 7, 2012 |
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A few 1966s for our 8,000th |
So there’s this newish old Loch Lomond 1966 that I had previewed the other day, very unusual whisky! But which other whisky or whiskies should I bring together? Sadly, I have no other old Loch Lomond at hand… Oh, why not other oldies from the same vintage then? |
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Loch Lomond 1966/2011 (40%, OB, 1640 bottles) Colour: straw. Nose: as unusual as I remember. A kind of funny mixture of stewed apples with a little almond oil and something a little metallic that hints at Irish pot still. Then much more hay, gasoline, old books and then the fruits are back, rather more on greengages. The little problem is that it never stops becoming more cardboardy after a few minutes. Overripe apples. Mouth: sweet and light, sappy, oily… It’s extremely drinkable in truth, very easy, with more tropical fruits (papayas) and a few very soft spices. Cinnamon cake? Sadly, it becomes a little weak and the middle lacks body, although it remains pleasant. Finish: shortish but clean. Passion fruits and papayas with a little grated ginger and coconut. Comments: very quaffable, between grain and malt, and very cheap (approx 150€ if I’m not mistaken). What’s very pleasant is the very discreet oakiness, we’ve seen many oldies that were much, much oakier. SGP:531 - 85 points. |
Good, what we could do now is go down south… While staying in 1966! |
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Bladnoch 23 yo 1966/1989 (43%, Signatory, cask #2674-76, 900 bottles) Granted, this one isn’t quite as old as the Loch Lomond… Colour: Nose: we’re not too far as far as styles are concerned, and this Bladnoch isn’t as citrusy and zesty as younger versions. It’s actually quite tarry, oily, leathery, sooty and globally mineral, kind of old school and more ‘Highlands’ than ‘Lowlands’, provided regions make sense (maybe they used to make more sense back in 1966?) Mouth: superb! Fatter, oilier, zestier, creamier and incredibly big at just 43% ABV. We’re really close to the old OBs for Italy (the famous ‘Torinos’). Wonderful notes of olive oil, gingerbread, liquorice, chartreuse… Too bad there’s a wee soapiness in the background, that will prevent it from getting an ultra-high mark in my book (dura lex sed lex – isn’t that a tad too serious?) Finish: long, slightly metallic now and in that sense not that far from the Loch Lomond. Comments: plenty of body! SGP:651 - 88 points. |
Where shall we go now, provided we’ll stay in 1966? Maybe north along the coast and try to find something funny? (yes I know, there’s nothing south of Bladnoch anyway ;-)) |
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Ben Nevis 42 yo 1966 (40.6%, The Maltman, cask #1776) Don’t we know that we could expect just anything from an old Ben Nevis? (remember they were using washbacks in… concrete!) Colour: full gold. Nose: hey hey, it’s certainly not one of those whackwobbly old BNs, quite the opposite! It’s half mineral/waxy, half fruity, with tropical leanings I’d say. Sesame oil (a faint smokiness) and bananas, wax polish, eucalyptus, green oranges and vetiver, wulong tea… Frankly, it’s a beautiful, very complex and very subtle nose. The question is: will the palate stay the course? Mouth: ah yes, beautiful! Sure it’s no powerhouse but it’s perfectly herbal and waxy, developing on banana skin, honeydew, cough syrup and various herbal teas. Maybe lime tea, also oranges. Drops after ten seconds, but that was to be expected. Finish: short but still quite beautiful. Chamomile and dry oak in the aftertaste. Comments: not enough oomph to make it to 90 but it’s a solid 89. SGP:651 - 89 points. |
All right, this is what we’re going to do: try as many 1966s as needed until we find a 90+. Agreed? And why not go on with another Ben Nevis, a very legendary one this time… |
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Ben Nevis 23 yo 1966/1989 (55%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #78.1) That’s right, the very first Ben Nevis by the SMWS, with a twist cap if you please! Colour: gold. Nose: it’s interesting that we would find the same kind of mineral/waxy notes as in the ‘new’ Maltman, only with more powa of course. Graphite oil, Barbour grease, fermenting grass, leather, then more lime and diesel oil, Riesling-style… We’re very far from the well-known sherried old Ben Nevis here, it’s a very interesting spirit. With water: we got even closer to the Maltman. Very nice whiffs of lovage and parsley, maybe not-to-ripe persimmon. Okay, maybe not. Mouth (neat): Ben Nevis’ wackiness is back and I must say this is a little unlikely. Grapefruit drops and cut cactus? Lemon squash and coriander? I don’t quite know what to think, this extreme zestiness came unexpected. So, with water: Finish: bizarre, very bizarre. Some kind of unaged tequila with a good layer of dust and cardboard. Very chalky. Comments: great, great nose but unlikely palate in my opinion. Old Ben Nevis are always fun. SGP:562 - 82 points. |
So no 90+ yet, let’s go on with these 1966s… Sadly, we haven’t got any 1966 Glenlochy so let’s leave town and head east. Next stop: Royal Brackla, just east of Inverness. |
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Royal Brackla 26 yo 1966/1991 (56.9%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection) Isn’t it always comforting when Cadenhead tells us that a particular malt was matured in an oak cask? Colour: gold. Nose: ultra-grassy, spirity, austere… Then fruitier but it’s only apples, apples and apples plus touches of bubblegum. Probably a case of high alcohol locking the whole. With water: indeed, it’s amazing how water just unlocks the spirit, although I would say it became extravagantly aromatic. In fact, it got very farmyardy, which happens more often than never. Mouth (neat): sharp, powerful and frankly difficult at this point. New kirsch just running from the still, cachaça… With water: typical old Highlander, that is to say a grassier, waxier Speysider. Ah, generalisations! Finish: long, with an unexpected saltiness. Comments: not an easy one, this baby. It’s from the extreme countryside, so to speak. SGP:351 - 84 points. |
Hmm... Maybe a Caperdonich? |
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Caperdonich 30 yo 1966/1996 (53.4%, Signatory, sherry, cask #133, 212 bottles) Probably a fairly sure bet, this baby’s sister casks have been quite brilliant (there’s not only 1972 at Caperdonich’s!). Colour: amber. Nose: it’s all on orange liqueurs and tobacco at first nosing, with much fewer rubbery touches than in other bottlings and quite some ginger instead. Tonic water, a little ham, Corinthian raisins, leather, cigars… It’s moderately sherried and all that works well so far. With water: the rubber comes out, together with quite some hay, farmyard, a little mud, more leather… Mouth (neat): hmm… Maybe it’s a notch too aggressive now, too bitter, too tannic… With water: ah yes! Now we’re talking! Bitter oranges, rhum agricole, more tobacco, old Armagnac, old Cointreau, a little strawberry jam, oloroso, liquorice… Finish: long, always with that bitterness, oranges, cinchona… And something slightly chemical in the aftertaste. A little sulphur? Comments: very good but really needs water and, well, I wouldn’t swear it’s worth 90. It’s probably not, in fact. SGP:461 - 86 points. |
All right, the next one will be our 8,000th, so let’s bring in the heavy artillery... |
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Tamnavulin 35 yo 1966 (52.6%, OB, for Japan, Matthew Forrest, Cream Sherry Butt, cask #3807, 472 bottles) Colour: amber with red hues. Nose: bags of prunes, wheelbarrows of sultanas and truckloads of plum and strawberry jams. Then a superb development on cigars, ham, cedar wood and Seville oranges. Ultra-classic, mega-nice. With water: rocks and leather, metal polish and old rancio. Brilliant. Mouth (neat): yes, a perfect sherry monster, akin to the best Macallans, Glendronachs or Glenfarclas. Chocolate, coffee, prunes, raisins, orange liqueur, pepper… And not the tiniest flaw. Probably from a genuine sherry butt. With water: the most exquisite chocolate filled with the most precious liqueurs. Finish: very long, chocolaty, fruity, jammy. Comments: again, ultra-classic old sherry ‘monster’ (not monstrous at all actually). Scotland’s best cognac! The great late Matt Forrest sure knew how to select a cask of whisky! SGP:651 - 92 points. (with heartfelt thanks to Arno, Ho-Cheng, Konstantin and Marcel) |
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SHORT
RAMBLINGS (too long for Twitter! ;-)) |
Eight thousand.
So what?
So those were our 8,000th complete tasting notes for this lousy little website called Whiskyfun. But nothing too serious, nothing to celebrate I believe, nothing to be twitterised or facebooked, just another meaningless stage. |
| Having said that, maybe we could take this opportunity to have a quick update on what’s happening these days with this little dinosaur of a whisky website called Whiskyfun. More than ever, I’m amazed by the fact that our figures are still rising after all these years and despite very, very modest ‘social’ integration (no comments allowed - yes I know – and very little ‘self-linking’ on either forums, Facebook, Twitter or Google+. Well, almost none.) |
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Indeed the number of visits is up 15.60% wrt last year since January, with some distilleries rising much faster than others as far as searches are concerned: Bowmore, Bruichladdich, Clynelish, Glendronach, Benriach, Tomatin, Mortlach and Old Pulteney. I think that goes to show that the new malt aficionados tend to think ‘wider’ and do not only focus on the very big names, kudos to them. Also that many launchings or re-launchings in the last ten years seem to have succeeded among the ‘learned’. Yup that may be us. |
As far as WF’s visitors are concerned, the major European countries are up but the largest rises come from Japan (+26.53%), China (+176%!) and Singapore (+43%) as well as from most Eastern-European countries. As for the unique visitor from the Vatican that we had two years ago, I’ve seen that he never came back. The ways of the Lord are impenetrable. |
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According to WF's Department of Linguistics, this should mean 'whisky' in Chinese. If not, apologies to our friends! |
| Next milestone: WF’s 10th Anniversary in July, just after the Malt Maniacs’ 15th that twenty-six of us will celebrate in Scotland in June. |
MUSIC
- Recommended listening: something very cool today, and I think I've already posted it, he's ex-Pulp Richard Hawley and he sings The Ocean (from the fab Cole's Corner). That's good retro! Please buy Richard Hawley's music... |
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May 6, 2012 |
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| Tasting a few Bourbons including a rare old one |
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Hudson Whiskey ‘Four Grain Bourbon’ (46%, OB, +/-2011) I found a batch from 2007 quite good despite its extreme youth, and I’ve heard it improved ‘quite seriously’ since back then. Time to check that… Colour: amber. Nose: sweet oak all over the place, with loads and loads of vanilla and café latte and then touches of ginger and cardamom, with distinct hints of rye. Mars bar. It’s very simple but it’s flawless, unless you really need complexity. Ah well… Mouth: rich, sweet, highly extractive. A very nice oak liqueur but you really have to like that. Drambuie, maple syrup, ginger liqueur and then more maple syrup (and ginger). Finish: long, on the same flavours, more or less. Caraway seeds and ginger in the aftertaste. Comments: it’s quite extreme and very oaky/spicy, but absolutely not drying or plankish. In other words, a good oak liqueur… SGP:651 - 81 points. |
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Four Roses 'Small Batch' (45%, OB, +/-2011) It’s the first time I try this baby. Colour: deep gold. Nose: as oaky as the Hudson but less rounded and sweet, more on pencil shavings and sawdust. Then more roasted nuts, walnuts, dried grated coconut, whiffs of roses and patchouli, tea and plain plank. Certainly not un-nice but I think the oak’s a little too loud for a Scotch aficionado. More and more juniper berries after a few minutes. Why not! Mouth: punchy, rich, wider, more complex than on the nose. More fruits such as pineapples and bananas, with bags of sweet spices from the oak. White pepper. Finish: very long, with more honey but also more white pepper, especially in the aftertaste. Cardamom. Comments: I’m wondering if bourbons aren’t more ‘palate’ whiskies while Scotch might be more ‘nose’ whisky. Just wondering… Forget about that… SGP:571 - 80 points. |
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Eagle Rare 17 yo (45%, OB, +/-2011) Colour: amber. Nose: smoother and rounder again, actually closer to the Hudson than to the Four Roses. I get honey, maple syrup, vanilla and many soft spices, cardamom, star anise, sweet ginger, a little rum… And after a few minutes, more freshly roasted coffee beans, fresh croissants (breakfast!) and orange cake plus some kind of aromatic grass. Is that agave? A complex nose but it shouldn’t be rushed, I think. Mouth: rich, as extractive as the others but also fruitier, more lively, with more marshmallows, gingerbread, even bubblegum, orange zests… I like the way it becomes sappy/resinous after a while, with more eucalyptus, green tobacco, leather, pine liqueur… It’s entertaining whisky. Finish: long, with more notes of old wood and leather, herbs, white pepper… Maybe not its best side. Comments: I think this is very good. I’m no bourbon lover – although I do like my bourbon from time to time, provided it’s not over-oaked – but I’d happily buy a bottle of this – one day. SGP:661 - 83 points. |
| Usually, when I taste scotch whiskies that are certainly good but not thrilling in my view, I try to find an old glory to have a better lasting impression. Maybe we could do that as well after these very nice, but not terrific bourbons (again, in my views)?… Like this baby?... |
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Old Southern Home 6 yo (100 US Proof, OB, +/-1945) From registered distillery No 68 which, according to what I could find on the Web, could have been the Old Taylor Distillery that was sold to the National Distillers Corporation in 1935 and stopped operating in 1972. Not too sure because sources are discordant. Colour: amber. Nose: very different from more modern bourbons, that is to say much less sweet and oaky and rather more on herbal and even mineral notes, which makes it a little Scotchier, so to speak. There’s even a feeling of peat smoke, imagine! Then ham, pear compote, plums, light coffee, cognac, stout beer… Also a very nice earthiness arising, humus, dead leaves… Interesting nose but that does not mean the palate will as nice. Let’s see. Mouth: an avalanche of coffee and roasted nuts, the whole being drier than modern bourbons, probably rougher and grittier (so to speak). Also more orange liqueur, early grey tea, bergamots and, once again, a little smoke. Good whisky but it remains a little rough around the edges despite the long time in glass that should have mellowed it. Finish: medium long, more honeyed. Touches of strawberry jam and marmalade in the aftertaste, as well as a little coconut that makes it more modern. Comments: good but kind of mundane. It seems that his baby didn’t lose much during its +/-60 years in glass! SGP:552 - 78 points. |
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Bottom of back label. Does this ring a bell to anyone? Please drop me a mail. |
| PETE
McPEAT AND JACK WASHBACK |
MUSIC
- Recommended listening: between Bach, Schubert and traditional Azeri music, Aziza Mustafa Zadeh plays and sings a wonderful Star Dance (from her album 'Contrasts') Please buy Aziza Mustafa Zadeh's music... |
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May 4, 2012 |
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Tasting old Japanese blends |
Time to have some old Japanese blends today, with two babies that I had never carefully assessed before. Very curious about the Taketsuru I must say… |
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Suntory 21 yo 'Hibiki' (43%, OB, +/-2011) Some recent versions of the 17yo (WF 82) and, above all, 30yo (WF 91) have been much to my liking. Colour: full gold. Nose: starts rather grassy and herbal, with touches of sugarcane and humidor, then more sandalwood and incense. It’s rather less smooth and silky than expected and keeps developing on more herbal notes and even a little artisan cider. Quite some white pepper too and then more leather and ginger. Quite a lot happening in this one. Mouth: typically un-Scotch, so to speak, with these notes of mint and eucalyptus tea on top of some apple peelings, cider apples (there’s a sourness) and dry spices. Then more cardamom and white pepper plus overripe peaches. Fried zucchini flowers. Finish: medium long, with more sour notes. Pleasantly sour notes (white wine?) Dry spices again in the aftertaste as well a something slightly metallic. Black pepper. Comments: perhaps it lacks a little definition but of course, it’s excellent whisky. SGP:441 - 84 points. |
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Nikka 35 yo 'Taketsuru' (43%, OB, 1000 bottles, +/- 2008) A blended malt, made out of the oldest barrels from the Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries. The 21 was quite excellent in my opinion (WF 85). BTW, I believe this baby’s ten times more expensive than the Hibiki 21. Colour: pale amber. Nose: we’re not that far from the Hibiki 21 but this is more fragrant, more tropical. Stewed mangos and moist pipe tobacco, passion fruits, then a little rancio, old cognac, thuja wood and then quite some humus, moss, old wine cellar, roses… Very elegant, very subtle, with a perfect balance and no ‘straight oak’ that I can smell. After fifteen minutes: more fresh orange cake and a lot of earl grey tea. Old sauternes? A little wood smoke as well. Mouth: excellent attack, lively, not overoaked, more ‘Scotch’ than the Hibiki – not that it matters, mind you. Bergamots, marmalade, more earl grey tea, guavas, ripe plums and a little cardamom and cinnamon at the spice department. Obvious touches of turmeric as well, very nice if you like that. The oak tends to become louder over time (green tea) but it remains gentle and ‘polished’. Finish: not very long but as clean and fresh as malt whisky can get at 35 years of age. Chamomile, mint and cinnamon plus touches of raspberries. Comments: a little more punch would have been welcome on the palate and that’s where it loses one or two points. An excellent 90 nonetheless! SGP:552 - 90 points. (with thanks to Konstantin) |
MUSIC
- Recommended listening: one of the most elegant jazz pianists ever, Kirk Lightsey, plays Wayne Shortter's Fee Fi Fo Fum (that's on 'Lightsey 1'). Please buy Kirk Lightsey's music. |
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May 2, 2012 |
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Tasting Talisker 10 and a worthy sparring partner |
Talisker 10 yo is a whisky I like to follow year after year, just like true Bordeaux lovers like to follow this or that château, vintage after vintage… And this time, I think I’ve found a very, and I mean very worthy (official) opponent! |
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Talisker 10 yo (45.8%, OB, +/-2012) Colour: gold. Nose: it seems that Talisker 10 gets smokier and smokier, drier and drier and ashier and ashier. We won’t complain. So little fruits here, at least at first sniffs, rather a feeling of barbecue on the beach (next to a seaweed bonfire), with then some rather unusual herbs, between sage and thyme or maybe even ramsons. Then the usual sootiness and more seaweed and brine. Check! Mouth: lovely, absolutely lovely although a notch simpler now. More fruits (oranges, lemons) and maybe a little less pepper than before, but both the expected smokiness and saltiness have materialized on our palate. Salted grapefruits and seafood. Check. Finish: not extremely long, as often with Talisker in my experience, but clean, perfectly salty, lemony and smoky. Check. Comments: check. Beats anything in this price range. SGP:466 - 90 points. |
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Talisker 34 yo 1975 (45.1%, OB, cask #4982, 250 bottles, 2011) One of the sensations of the end of last year! Colour: full gold. Nose: vorsicht! It’s an example of these old peaters that get their smokiness kind of transmuted into tropical fruits of all sorts, without losing any coastality. I’m sure you understand me, don’t you. Red olives (brine with chillies), kumquats, mangos, well-matured cigar, old chardonnay (no modern junkish oak bomb), Spanish ham, fresh butter, leather polish, more spices (I cannot not think of something Chinese although I couldn’t tell you what exactly), a little raw wool… It’s all very, very complex but sometimes, the palates can be tired with this kind of nose that goes into many directions. Let’s see… |
Mouth: ah well, what’s really striking at first sips is that we aren’t far from the 10, not far at all. That should please any whisky lover! Actually, in no way you would tell this baby is more than three times older, although it is more complex of course – but just a notch. Profiles are very similar, in fact, this one just goes to eleven on all accounts, except plain and pure peatiness. Although, on second thought… In short, no ‘tired old glory’, rather a vibrant, nervous, very dynamic Talisker. The absolute wonders of high quality refill wood! Finish: unusually long (but not interminable), with a very zesty combination of salt and lemon in the aftertaste – rarely to be found in such old peaters in my experience. Comments: of course they wouldn’t have bottled just any cask at this price (around 1,500€ with a little paraphernalia such as useless tumblers and a silly Titanic-shaped box if I’m not mistaken). Well, it’s almost worth the price if you have the dough. Having said that, I believe Scotch will have reached its promised land when they’ll manage to sell great old whiskies for high prices without all the junk they feel they have to rig out the ‘nectar’ with. Crystal, plywood, diamonds, silver, pewter… I’m sure stellar whiskies, just like the best wines, don’t need all that scrap! Or do they really need those crutches? Ah well… SGP:566 - 94 points. (thanks Ho-Cheng) |
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April 2012 |
Favourite recent bottling:
Glenlochy 31 yo 1980/2012 (53.1%, Signatory, hogshead, cask #3021, 164 bottles) - WF 92
Favourite older bottling:
Glen Cawdor 32 yo 1951 (46%, Samaroli, 120 bottles, +/-1983) - WF 95
Favourite bang for your buck bottling:
Caol Ila 1982/2011 (56.4%, Berry Bros & Rudd, cask #6514) - WF 92 |
MUSIC
- Recommended listening: another crazy ultra-boppy piece called Etude Diabolique (diabolical study) by king of baritone sax Pepper Adams. That was on Reflectory (1978), with Rolland Hanna, Billy Hart and George Mraz. Birdesque! Please buy Pepper Adams' music. |
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Ardbeg 18yo 1974/1992 (57.6%, Cadenhead's Authentic Collection, 150th Ann., D07/'74 B08/'92)
Ardbeg 25yo 1975/2000 (50%, Douglas Laing Old Malt Cask, D10/'75 B10/'00, 702 Bts.)
Ardbeg 13yo 1975/1989 (54.8%, Gordon & MacPhail for Intertrade, D10/'75 B07/'89, 288 Bts., 75cl)
Ardbeg 30yo 1964/1995 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail for John Gross & Co, Baltimore, USA)
Ardbeg 29yo 1967/1996 (52%, Kingsbury, Sherry, D03/'67 B06/'96, C#923)
Ardbeg 1974/1993 (55.1%, Scotch Single Malt Circle, D09/'74 B11/'93, C#4377)
Ardbeg 1976/2002 (53.1%, OB for Feis Isle, Sherry Butt, D11/'76 B04/'02, C#2390, 494 Bts.)
Ardbeg 28yo 1967/1995 (53.2%, Signatory Vintage, Dark Oloroso, D02/'67 B11/'95, C#574, 488 Bts.)
Ardbeg 29yo 1967/1996 (54.6%, Kingsbury, Sherry, D03/'67 B06/'96, C#922)
Bowmore 1956 (43%, OB for Soffiantino Italy, 1980s)
Bowmore 8yo (43%, OB, Sherriff's, Pear Shape, Black/White Label w. Age in Red, 1960s, 75cl, 1965*)
Bowmore 18yo 1966/1984 (53%, Samaroli Bouquet, 720 Bts.)
Bowmore 1964/1993 'Black' (50%, OB, 2000 Bts., First edition)
Brora 22yo 1972/1995 (58.7%, OB Rare Malts Selection)
Brora 22yo 1972/1995 (61.1%, OB Rare Malts Selection)
Caol Ila 15yo (63%, OB, Manager's Dram, Dark Sherry, B07/'90)
Caol Ila 1968 (58.5%, Gordon & McPhail Cask Series for Meregalli, 1980's)
Caol Ila 15yo 1969/1984 (60.4%, G&M for Intertrade, Celtic label)
Caol Ila 12yo 1974 (63%, James MacArthur, C#74)
Caol Ila 1968 (57%, Samaroli, oval label, 1980's)
Caol Ila 17yo 1974/1991 (61.1%, Signatory, C#5-9, 3000 Bts.)
Clynelish 23yo 1965/1989 (51.7%, Cadenhead's for Nibada, Black label)
Dalmore 50yo (52%, OB, 2006, crystal decanter)
Glenfarclas 21yo (51.5%, OB, Pinerolo, selected for Edward Giaccone, rotation 1974)
Glen Garioch 1971 (59.6%, Samaroli, Sherry, 2280 Bts., 75cl, 1988*)
Highland Park 30yo 1955/1985 (53.2%, G&M for Intertrade, 216 Bts., 75cl)
Highland Park 30yo 1956/1986 (55.6%, G&M for Intertrade, 215 Bts., 75cl)
Laphroaig 10yo (91.4 Pr., OB, Unblended Islay Malt, clear glass, Esbach San Francisco Import)
Laphroaig 10yo (43%, OB for Bonfanti Milano, +/-1978)
Laphroaig 12yo (80 Pr., Cadenhead's, tall bottle black label, 1977)
Laphroaig 15yo 1967/1982 (57%, Duthie's for Samaroli, 720 Bts., 75cl)
Laphroaig 19yo 1966/1985 (50.2%, G&M for Intertrade, 360 Bts.)
Laphroaig 27yo 1967/1994 (50.1%, Signatory Dumpy, C#2957, 208 Bts., D11/'67 B11/'94)
Largiemeanoch 12yo 1967 (54.2%, Howgate Wine Co., Bowmore, C#2655/6/7, +/-1979)
Macallan 1947 (80 Pr., OB, Rinaldi Import, +/-1962)
Macallan 1954 (80 Pr., OB, Campbell, Hope & King, Rinaldi Italy, late 1960's)
Macallan 1938 (43%, OB, hand written label with seal, Imported by Corade France, 75cl)
Mortlach 35yo 1936 (43%, Gordon & MacPhail for Pinerolo, rotation 1972)
Port Ellen 12yo (62.7%, James MacArthur, Fine Malt Selection, pale version, 75cl, 1985*)
Port Ellen 12yo (59%, James Mac Arthur, Fine Malt Selection, dark Sherry, late 1980's, 75cl)
Port Ellen 15yo 1969/1985 (64.7%, G&M Cask Strength, for Intertrade)
Springbank 12yo '100 Proof' (57.1%, OB, 2400 Bts., early 1980's, imp. Samaroli)
Springbank 24yo 1966/1990 'Local Barley' (58.1%, OB, C#443)
Talisker (53.5%, Gordon & MacPhail Licensed Bottling, NAS, Black label, Cork, 75cl, 1972*)
Talisker 16yo 1970/1986 (53.1%, Gordon & MacPhail for Intertrade, 75cl)
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