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December 11, 2024 |
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Caol Ila in Abundance, Part Two
Here we are again with a second and final batch of Caol Ila. We’re once more expecting very close scores, as Caol Ila is such a consistent and flawless malt. All of this, while keeping in mind the rather incredible and unexpected 2007 Caol Ila at only 42.4% from Cut Your Wolf Loose (WF 90).
Ad for some Rivesaltes, 1970s. Is the effect the same when you add it to a malt whisky? |
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Caol Ila 7 yo 2017/2024 (46%, Douglas Laing, Provenance, LMDW Foundations, Barbados rum finish, cask #DL18766) 
One could gently mock this little creation, wondering why a young Caol Ila would need to be flavoured with rum in this way. But then, we remember often finding certain similarities between some ex-pot still rums and Islay’s peated malts. So perhaps it’s not such a forced marriage after all… Colour: white wine. Nose: this is a young CI with a fatter nose, slightly more rubbery, but also showing more diesel oil and olives, and consequently fewer purely coastal notes. Some lamp oil and a touch of tequila follow. Mouth: oysters with olives, lemon with mezcal, and a clearly tarry side. The salinity only grows stronger and begins to play around on your lips. Finish: I thought I might find the rounder, softer side of the rum, but no. Islay has more or less fully taken back control. Ultra-ripe pineapple notes linger in the aftertaste, though. Comments: a slightly tautological creation, as some might say, but undeniably very good. It seems as though the rum has toned down the immature edges of the baby CI a little.
SGP:566 - 85 points. |
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Caol Ila 17 yo 2007/2024 (54.2%, Maltbarn, sherry cask, 177 bottles)
Always those brilliant labels that remind us of our not-so-distant youth (oh yes). Colour: pale gold. Nose: this one is much more acetic at first, almost vinegary (cider vinegar), with also some impressive notes of bière de garde. Then come seawater, beach sand, oysters, apples, tar, and mercurochrome. It evolves, but not very quickly. With water: impeccable, on linseed oil and fresh paint. Mouth (neat): fruitier but also more mentholated, there’s more of an ultra-mojito vibe in this one than in the DL finished in rum. Very good, actually, with lovely bitterness too. With water: notes of bitter almonds and a hint of espresso coffee arrive. Very nicely dry. Finish: long, with plenty of ashes this time. The aftertaste remains very salty. Comments: a slight sharpness that I really like a lot.
SGP:457 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 11 yo 2013/2024 (55.4%, Lady of the Glen, Rivesaltes finish, 299 bottles) 
Not particularly inspired by the Rivesaltes. The Rivesaltes appellation (1100ha) is located around Perpignan in French Catalonia, veeeery far from Islay. There are several types of Rivesaltes wines (amber, grenat, tawny, rosé…), but our Scottish friends never specify which casks they use—do they even know themselves? These are fortified sweet wines (VDN) where fermentation is stopped by adding neutral alcohol to retain some of the natural sugar. They also produce dry rancios through oxidative ageing. Colour: light gold. Nose: very fruity and sweet, reminding us of some Port Charlottes we’ve enjoyed. There’s not much room left for the distillate, let’s say. With water: a slight sulphury note, but not bothersome. Boiled Jerusalem artichokes. Mouth (neat): there’s no doubt it’s well-made, but it’s just very ‘trans’, giving the impression it could almost be a VDN fortified with an Islay peater. Now there’s an idea… With water: it navigates between the two worlds. Finish: long, trickier, ashy, sweet, and slightly sour all at once. Comments: I’m sure this slightly odd little dram has its aficionados. To each their own.
SGP:765 - 78 points. |
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Caol Ila 9 yo 2014/2024 (60.3%, The Whisky Exchange, The Seasons, Autumn, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #808)
Autumn? About time, as winter starts on December 21st. For once, we’re not too late… Colour: rich gold. Nose: oh, apples, ashes, fresh varnish, and equally fresh marzipan. Mozart Kugeln. And I swear I even detect hints of fresh mushrooms, just like on the label. But don’t worry, not a trace of mustiness. I really like this nose so far. With water: the varnish and almonds take centre stage, with a slightly American vibe. Of course, it’s bourbon… Mouth (neat): pow, a punch to the chin. Ultra-clean, wonderfully simple, candied lemon, ashes, smoke, an oyster, and a touch of glue. With water: the oak takes charge, but gracefully, and the candied lemon keeps it company. Finish: long, with a few spices, especially nutmeg, curry, and paprika. Smoky, of course. Comments: it’s amusing to see how a very active cask (or so it seems) can gently engage with a young peated malt. Quite a ‘creation’ (if you know what I mean). In the style of Dr. Bill.
SGP:567 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 9 yo 2015/2024 (54.9%, James Eadie, first fill amontillado European oak hogshead, cask #378487, 341 bottles) 
We have fond memories of yesterday’s ex-palo cortado. I’ve always found good amontillados and the rarer palo cortados to be similar, though I haven’t drunk millions of them. Clearly, I should have tasted this one right after yesterday’s palo cortado—how embarrassing. Colour: light gold. Nose: this is much less marked by the sherry than yesterday’s, veering more towards manzanilla territory, with green apples, equally green walnuts, a hint of mustard seed, and then some salty touches that pair perfectly with this CI. It makes you wonder what comes from the whisky and what from the cask. Perfect continuum. With water: seawater, smoked fish, vin jaune. Mouth (neat): sweet Suzy, how good is this! Super salty, with the right acidity, nervy like a young colt, and packed with candied citrus. The fusion of cask and distillate is incredible, with an impressive proximity of flavours. With water: spiced and salted candied fruits. Finish: long, developing simply splendid bitterness. Comments: powerful but lighter than the palo cortado, less oxidative, just as brilliant, perhaps even a bit better. Do they produce magnums?
SGP:467 - 89 points. |
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Caol Ila 14 yo 2010/2024 (57%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, LMDW, oloroso sherry finish, cask #311752, 265 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: here we find the dry side of oloroso, somewhere between miso soup and walnut wine, carbon dust, sautéed porcini mushrooms, and then, little by little, coastal elements emerge, with shellfish and seaweed coming in waves (naturally, ha). With water: a platter of oysters with Tabasco and heavily toasted rye bread. Mouth (neat): a bit brutal, medicinal, and bitter like some old-school cough remedy, though the ethanol seems to be the main culprit. With water: indeed, our citrusy friends come to lift everything up, adding freshness and joy (don’t they?). Still, there’s a lingering sense of eucalyptus and honey cough lozenges. Finish: long and lemony. Pickled lemons and walnuts. Comments: a lot of adventure in this CI—it must have had a good fight early on during the finishing period, but the result is excellent, as expected.
SGP:466 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 12 yo 2011/2023 (50%, Hunter Laing, Old Malt Cask 25th Anniversary, manzanilla butt, 750 bottles) 
These replica bottlings of the seminal Old Malt Cask series are really quite charming. Sony brought out their Walkman again too, didn’t they? As for the manzanilla cask, you can imagine how ex-ci-ted we are. Colour: pale gold. Nose: lovely, suave, with green walnuts, old apples, citron, seawater, a touch of rubber bands, and… manzanilla. Think La Gitana. With water: a beach campfire, with someone grilling sausages. Mouth (neat): some hints of spent matches at first, then a kind of walnut mustard mixed with seawater and ashes. Better than it might seem. With water: that light sulphury touch is still there, but it leads to chalk and peaty smoke. Finish: long, fairly sharp, with plenty of ashes and… personality. The sulphury note remains. Comments: quite a different beast in the end. A little odder than I would have thought but I still really like it.
SGP:356 - 83 points. |
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Caol Ila 11 yo 2013/2024 (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice, second fill sherry hogshead, autumn edition)
Once again, a release for autumn, so we’re on schedule—even if it’s already -7°C outside here at WF Alsace HQ. Colour: gold. Nose: classic, rather gentle, close to the OBs, with wafts of aniseed and mint, amaretti, ripe apples, and even hints of sour cherries in alcohol. The sherry is subtle but not entirely absent. Mouth: it feels stronger than just 48.5%, quite bitter and rough, to the point where you might want to add two and a half drops of water. With water: it works perfectly. A drop of pastis in seawater and lemon juice. Excellent tension. Finish: herbal cordials, with more vegetal tension than in typical CIs. Sour cherries return as well. Comments: don’t think a reasonable bottling strength should stop you from adding water.
SGP:467 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 17 yo 2007/2024 (56%, Halcyon Spirits, cask #306807, 273 bottles)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: the cask seems to have been very active, as plenty of cake and vanilla cream come to the fore at first, followed by wet stones, cooked peas, new tyres, a few whiffs of lilies (from at least fifteen metres away), and finally more classic Caol Ila notes: seawater, shellfish, a touch of tar… With water: ashes extinguished with seawater dominate. No complaints here. Mouth (neat): excellent, powerful, compact, with pepper, candied lemon, ashes, and seaweed. With water: pepper, salt, miso soup, ashes, and tar set the tone here. Very classic, very ‘Islay’; it feels a bit like being on the island’s southern coast. Finish: long, heavily ashy, with a hint of coal tar, and lemon bringing some zestiness to the aftertaste. A very, very faint, well the faintest touch of sulphur right at the end. Comments: a truly lovely beast.
SGP:567 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 1994/2005 (43%, Jean Boyer, recoopered hogshead, 400 bottles)
A small CI we had in stock, which I wanted to bring out as a tribute to our friend Jean Marie, former head of Jean Boyer, who left us far too soon. We had never formally tasted it before. As the back label explains, these ‘recoopered’ hogsheads can display notes close to new wood, particularly coconut for American oak or vanilla for European oak. Colour: white wine. Nose: a lot of freshness after twenty years in the bottle, with whelks, almonds, candle wax, sunflower oil, soft brine, and above all, very moderate peat. It’s particularly elegant, with great gentleness – as Jean Marie was. Mouth: much livelier on the palate, starting directly on green olives, then evolving towards boat fuel and white pepper. And those old-fashioned kippers. The 43% ABV never feels ‘too low’. Finish: surprisingly long and saline, also peppery. A touch of varnish, perhaps from that ‘recoopered’ oak, then a return of those green olives we adore so much. Comments: cheerio Jean Marie, what a magnificent little Caol Ila.
SGP:566 - 87 points. |
One last one, and this time we won’t pick it at random, especially after this avalanche of young Caol Ilas since yesterday. After all, we’re entering the festive season… |
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Caol Ila 31 yo 1983/2014 (48.7%, Signatory Vintage, hogshead, cask #5300, 248 bottles) 
Colour: light gold. Nose: an ode to time, both the time spent in the cask and the time in the bottle, even if it’s just ten years. We’re treated to a rather sublime medley of syrups and herbal teas, flowers and small berries, all led by almonds and wild little black cherries. It’s an unfathomable subtlety, shaped by the interplay of molecules over the years. I’m almost certain that none of these aromas were present when this Caol Ila was, say, ten or twelve years old. In contrast, the smoke has vanished, swallowed by the whole or perhaps transmuted. You often find that in older Islay whiskies. Mouth: Oh, that’s it, game over—this is another dimension entirely. It’s brimming with minerals and herbs, oils and fats, and flavours for which we don’t even have analogies (which gives you a bit of a break, lucky you) ... Superb flavours that evoke nothing familiar, unknown substances, molecules never before tasted—possibly even a touch extra-terrestrial. In fact, some elements might remind one of the finest mezcals, and speaking of which, we really ought to do a full mezcal session on WF again—it’s been far too long. Finish: Superb vegetal and vinous freshness (think great white wines). Comments: what’s the point of resisting?
SGP:464 - 93 points. |
What a beautiful illustration of the work of time on a single malt whisky! These Caol Ilas age like fine wines, except that none ever really veer off course. In fact, I think I’ve never tasted one that was truly ‘out of line,’ and that’s saying something as we edge dangerously close to 900 Caol Ilas sampled here on little Whiskyfun.
It also reminds me of that miserable little joke worth about two pennies:
“Hey Alfred, it’s been ages since I last saw you!
- I know, I told my wife I was like fine whisky, getting better with age…
- And?
- She locked me in the cellar…”
I did warn you, didn’t I?
That’s enough Caol Ila for now, but at the start of the year, we’ll surely be tasting our 900th CI. |
(Thank you, Jean Marie and KC!) |
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December 10, 2024 |
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An Abundance of Caol Ila
Caol Ila remains the number one malt in terms of expressions tasted on WF. There are plenty of reasons for this, but one of the main ones is that it’s always a pleasure to try Caol Ila, simple as that. Let’s take a look at what we have, in no particular order. Note that we won’t be including any “secret” Caol Ilas today.
That said, it seems that along the way, we’ll also be tasting bourbon, palo cortado, PX, rum from Barbados, Rivesaltes, amontillado, oloroso, and manzanilla. Right.
Katrin Bremermann, 'No.2012-2020', enamel on waxed paper (artwork for the Caol Ila 'Artist Collective No 7.4') |
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Caol Ila 16 yo 2007/2023 (42.4%, Cut Your Wolf Loose, Cut Your Leftovers Loose, ex-American whisky, 80 bottles)
It seems only 80 bottles remained in the cask, and the intriguing ABV suggests another equally fascinating story behind this whisky. Colour: straw. Nose: absolutely delightful, light yet deep, with a style reminiscent of ‘Old Caol Ila’ from the late 1960s or early 1970s. Think ashes and coal, old paint pots, seaweed, and polished antique furniture, with a few whiffs of aged crème de menthe for good measure. It's almost like stepping into a whisky antiquarian’s treasure trove. Mouth: resins and ashes, oysters, and seawater take centre stage, followed by a distinct charred edge and bittersweet old liqueurs. Hugely impressive and no doubt a serious challenge if you were tasting this blind. Finish: long and incredibly salty, like a malt thinned with seawater. Comments: something remarkable must have happened in this cask—perhaps a tale involving angels.
SGP:467 - 90 points. |
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Caol Ila 11 yo ‘Ambrosial Feast’ (57.3%, OB, Special Releases 2024) 
This is a non-peated version of Caol Ila (sometimes referred to as ‘Highland Caol Ila’), now far rarer than it was some 15 years ago. Colour: gold. Nose: slightly vinegary at first, with perhaps a whisper of peat, before developing into notes of apple tart and honey. There’s a touch of shortbread and even a drop of beer in the background. With water: the barley shines through, along with a hint of mead and a touch of rubber. Mouth (neat): powerful, with a splash of apple vinegar and some pepper, followed by apple cake and a bitter herbal edge. With water: citrus fruits and pepper emerge, along with more cake and a trace of ginger. Finish: fairly long, rather spicy, leaning on peppery notes with a saline touch towards the end. Comments: not bad at all, but there are dozens of other Scottish distilleries producing this style of whisky. Somewhat anecdotal, really.
SGP:551 - 82 points. |
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Caol Ila 15 yo 2008/2024 (53.2%, The Whisky Show, Chris Bolton, 291 bottles)
Featuring TWE's excellent Chris Bolton on the label, this bottling promises to deliver. Colour: pale gold. Nose: classic Caol Ila, taut and vibrant but with a firm structure, unfurling notes of mint and lemon alongside hints of shellfish and fireplace smoke, with a delicate touch of mezcal. With water: a lovely combination of cake batter and verbena emerges, with a faint backdrop of fuel oil. Mouth (neat): absolutely excellent—no complaints here. Lemon, pepper, seawater, oysters, and slightly richer smoke than one might typically expect. With water: a perfect balance between all these elements, showcasing a rare blend of power and elegance. Finish: long and deeply satisfying. Truly, these are whiskies that are almost impossible to resist. Comments: superb—well done, Chris and gang (and the distillers in the first place, naturally).
SGP:557 - 89 points. |
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Caol Ila 8 yo 2015/2024 (43%, Signatory Vintage, LMDW, Artist Collective N°7.4, hogsheads, 6 casks, 2753 bottles)
Caol Ila, in my experience, is one of those malts that can be utterly brilliant even at lower strengths, and the folks at Signatory clearly know this very well. Colour: water, almost. Call it Islay water. Nose: I was right (yes, I’ll take that, thank you), this is superb. It immediately makes you want to grab some smoked salmon and crème fraîche to pair with this charming little Caol Ila, full of smoke, lemon, ashes, and fresh engine oil. Mouth: playful coffee notes add a bit of fun to the familiar salinity and smoke. Beware, this is dangerously drinkable. If you decide to enjoy it over ice, perhaps call your solicitor first and double-check the details of your will. Finish: it holds steady, with lime and freshly cut apples bringing an even more refreshing touch. Comments: caution, high risk—this bottle really needs a warning sticker.
SGP:557 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 10 yo 2011/2021 (56.4%, Ingelred, bourbon, cask #307971, 295 bottles)
– A tale of Vikings, it seems, though this isn’t Highland Park; it’s unmistakably Caol Ila. After all, Islay is brimming with Viking heritage anyway. Colour: almost white. Nose: well, well—juniper and fresh anise. If this is Viking-inspired, one might think of aquavit, no? But I must say, this spirit is thoroughly charming. With water: an avalanche of green apples appears. Mouth (neat): of course it’s pure, precise, surgical Caol Ila. Smoke, ashes, lemon, two whelks, and three oysters make an appearance. With water: a touch of coffee, tart apples, green pepper, and those ever-so-slightly rubbery ashes. Finish: long, sharp, salty, and pinpoint accurate. Comments: it’s a bit like the 2008 at 43%, but with (a lot) more punch.
SGP:557 - 87 points. |
These young Caol Ilas are simply unstoppable. They always remind me of the emotion one feels the first time they catch sight of the large stills through the bay window. In fact, it's very rare to come across a bad Caol Ila—or as someone once said, if it's bad, then it isn't Caol Ila. |
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Caol Ila 11 yo 2012/2024 (59.1%, Signatory Vintage, for Whisky Club Nantais, bourbon hogshead, cask #318264, 255 bottles)
A young Caol Ila bottled for true Breton enthusiasts (and yes, Nantes is Breton, don’t argue). Colour: Pale white wine. Nose: It's an absolute delight to dive into these young, crystal-clear Caol Ilas, where the distillate takes centre stage rather than the cask. And what a distillate it is! Here we have something almost akin to smoked cider apples grilled over charcoal with a lovely dash of peat and just a faint medicinal whisper of Mercurochrome. That said, do take note—it’s nudging 60%! With water: much the same, remaining wonderfully elemental and pure. Mouth (neat): utterly simple, and in this context, that’s a quality in itself. Green apple, green pepper, citrus zest, and heaps of smoke and tar. With water: softens slightly, bringing in ripe apples, a drizzle of honey, and a rounded nuttiness that envelopes the palate. There’s even a touch of mustard and a fino-like dryness lurking in the background. Finish: Long, saline, and maritime to the last drop. Comments: Proof that the word ‘basic’ can be a badge of honour. A superbly focused young Caol Ila, still playing in the big leagues.
SGP: 557 - 87 points. |
It feels a bit like one could enjoy about fifteen of these and still achieve the same high score, despite the variations. |
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Caol Ila 9 yo 2015/2024 (55.8%, James Eadie, Palo Cortado hogshead finish, for the UK, cask #378486, 356 bottles)
Palo Cortado and Amontillado are easily among the finest sherries for finishing whisky—aside from Manzanilla, but there’s precious little of that in finishing, alas. Colour: dark gold. Nose: a stroke of genius here. Polished wax, used motor oil, and smoked almonds. What a stunning marriage between Caol Ila and sherry. In my book PX can often spell disaster with peated whiskies, but Palo Cortado is just perfect. With water: exhaust fumes, tarmac, and the scent of new tyres—almost like certain young Port Ellens from days gone by. Mouth (neat): monstrously coherent, like chewing a cigar while sipping on a robust double espresso. With water: it becomes gentler, offering salted apple, oysters, crab, and even a touch of Alsatian Riesling that pairs remarkably well. Finish: dry, long, increasingly peppery, and utterly perfect, with a whisper of hydrocarbons and ash trailing on the aftertaste. Comments: if only everyone handled their finishings this well.
SGP: 467 - 88 points. |
By the way, coming soon on WF: around ten Port Ellens that have never been tasted before for WF. I promise, before Christmas. |
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Caol Ila 22 yo 2002/2024 (52.5%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, LMDW, refill sherry, cask #14600104, 241 bottles)
Gordon & MacPhail continue to showcase their mastery as both independent bottlers and seasoned whisky maturers, selecting exceptional casks and often nurturing them to brilliance. Colour: pale gold. Nose: quite different from others, and it’s not just the age. There’s much more subtlety, with notes of vegetable oils, pistachios, sunflower seeds, linseed oil, damp earth, chalk, and clay… But the hallmark Caol Ila base remains firmly intact—sea water, smoke, petrol, and even a whisper of acetone (in the tiniest doses). With water: ripe green apples make an entrance, adding a delightful brightness. Mouth (neat): an intriguing, slightly unexpected duality—on one side, salted caramels and coffee, on the other, seaweed smoke and beachside barbecue. Yet, it all comes together gracefully, tied up with fine black pepper. With water: a combination of apple tart and a touch of shellfish, keeping things playful. Finish: Long and, as one might expect, more mature and evolved. Comments: gentler and rounder than others, but also rather more complex. The peat has softened a bit, but the whisky retains a rather dazzling brilliance, as one would hope.
SGP: 555 - 88 points. |
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Caol Ila 12 yo 2010/2023 (52%, Goldfinch, Bodega series, 1st fill PX, 395 bottles)
Of course, the mention of 1st fill PX on a peated whisky is a bit frightening, but nothing is ever definitive, and the worst is never certain (Confucius – that’s right, S.). After all, it’s no worse than coffee-mustard or banana-mint. Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, this is a somewhat discreet PX, but as often happens, the pairing still brings out some fairly marked rubbery notes. Think new inner tubes and such. With water: not too bad, but unnecessary, I would say. Mouth (neat): honestly, it’s fine. You lose a bit of Caol Ila’s razor-sharp edge, and the raisins feel as out of place as my grandmother at a Taylor Swift gig, but yes, ‘it’s fine’. With water: we’re comparing this to James E.’s Palo Cortado. We shouldn’t have. Finish: not bad… Comments: yes, it’s not bad, but since Caol Ila isn’t exactly the rarest malt whisky, the enthusiast might want to turn to more rewarding expressions, as they used to say in whisky guides from the 1960s. I’d also point you towards the recent Aultmore 10 years from Goldfinch, a thousand times more to my taste.
SGP:666 - 78 points. |
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Caol Ila 14 yo 2008/2023 (55.3%, Oxhead, hogshead, cask #322483)
A playful label in the style of a replica, with a mention of the Port Askaig pharmacy. We’ve never seen a pharmacy in Port Askaig, but perhaps we didn’t look hard enough. Colour: white wine. Nose: this is a somewhat more delicate nose, bearing similarities to that of the G&M CC 22, particularly sunflower oil and linseed oil. Beach bonfires, sea water, and almonds (we mean the shellfish, of course) follow. I mean we call dog cockle ‘sea almond’ in France. In short, maybe not a CI that totally asserts itself right away. With water: wet chalk emerges, alongside the scent of a brand-new scarf from the marvellous Islay Woollen Mill. You know, the kind that itches your neck a little but looks very smart when you’re back home… Mouth (neat): oh, very good! Ultra-classic, peat, brine, pepper, lemon, ashes… With water: yes, straightforward, paraffin, lemon zest, almond milk, and plenty of salt. Finish: similar, a rather oily CI. Comments: a very fine intermediate CI with a gorgeous texture.
SGP:567 - 87 points. |
Alright, one last one; I think we’ll carry on tomorrow… |
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Caol Ila 17 yo 2006/2023 (55.1%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 204 bottles)
I really like Cadenhead’s new designs—before, it felt like the 1960s; now, it’s more like the 1940s, ha. Remember, ‘don’t preserve the ashes but keep the fire alive,’ etc., etc., etc… Colour: white wine. Nose: a rather discreet Caol Ila, a gentleman, with tweed and with a touch of soot, then hints of melon and vineyard peach. You might think it came from an ex-cognac cask, though apparently, it’s not. There’s also an air of an old forge, metal, and greases… With water: motor oil, sourdough, and liquorice… Could it have been an ex-Longrow-ex-bourbon cask, by any chance? Mouth (neat): here comes Caol Ila’s intrinsic power, joined by a nearly effervescent profile—Schweppes, ginger, cinchona, sea salt, and an unexpected touch of jasmine tea. It all works very nicely, even if my description sounds improbable. With water: not very Caol Ila, but what matters is it’s both beautiful and delicious. Finish: long, with those floral notes lingering—lavender, jasmine, and even rosemary. Comments: a most surprising CI, especially after ten others, offering a fairly different perspective. Either way, I love it despite its unusual character. Well, they say habits are killers.
SGP:555 - 86 points. |
Once again, a very impressive grouping today, but as we’ve said, CI offers the reliability of a brand-new Patek Philippe (just to pick an example at random). |
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December 9, 2024 |
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Painting by Pierre Soulages (Museum of Modern Art, New York)
Joking aside, it’s actually an interior wall of the famous Vault No. 1 at Bowmore
(WF Archive, 2015). |
We said through the ages because today, we’re truly spreading out our small new vertical tasting, from young Bowmore to the 1950s, thereby covering almost every style. Bowmore is perhaps the distillate whose style has evolved the most over the decades—or so it seems to me. In any case, this is what we most enjoy doing, when we have the opportunity. Let’s see what’s inside the Bowmore box… |
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Bowmore 10 yo ‘Dark & Intense’ (40%, OB, travel retail, 1l, +/-2024) 
Hogsheads and Spanish oak sherry. We’d tried the inaugural batch a few years back, though I shan’t tell you what we thought—it’s best to hope they’ve tweaked the recipe for the better. Oddly available on Amazon, which feels strange for a travel exclusive, doesn’t it? And calling something ‘intense’ at 40% ABV is good for a laugh at least. Colour: dark gold. Nose: stuffed cabbage and last week’s whelks, with hints of leather and tobacco. Then, mercifully, more pleasant things emerge—dried seaweed, a bit of camphor, and perhaps peated chocolate. Admittedly, there are redeeming qualities, though the palate’s where it all needs to come together. Mouth: it’s fine. Mentholated tobacco, walnuts, brine, charred wood, goulash sauce, and a touch of mustard. Yes, not bad at all. Finish: not particularly long, with some lingering bitterness. Comments: brings to mind the tricky bottlings of 1995–2000, while the 40% remains a clear handicap. Still, the recipe does seem improved, even if there’s no real fruitiness to speak of.
SGP:263 - 75 points. |
Right, that's done—let's carry on... |
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Bowmore 11 yo 2013/2024 (57.4%, Single Cask Nation, 1st fill oloroso hogshead finish, cask #160490, 307 bottles)
A rather generous 39-month finishing, which feels more like a second maturation, doesn’t it? Colour: gold. Nose: this leans towards pure Bowmore, albeit gently rounded off by dry sherry, evoking an impression of high-quality boot polish. There’s a delightful addition of maritime touches—shells, oysters—and hints of aged tools and antique bronze. Not entirely typical, yet undeniably charming, with a dry PX-like character reminiscent of dry Málaga. With water: gamey notes emerge alongside motor oil, plasticine, hand cream, and lip balm—ideal provisions for a winter ski trip. Mouth (neat): walnut liqueur, mustard, salt, seawater, shoe polish, pepper, and a stray raisin or two bringing to mind the old 'Darkest' Bowmore, only a thousand times better balanced. No, make that ten thousand. With water: oranges and tobacco join the ensemble. Finish: long, predominantly saline, with a late flourish of dark chocolate. Comments: an old-school Bowmore with heaps of charisma. This would thrive in the cellar for another five years to nudge it into 90-point territory.
SGP:466 - 89 points. |
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Bowmore 15 yo 2001/2017 (56%, LMDW, Artist #7, hogshead, cask #20116, 275 bottles)
How on earth did this one slip under the radar for all these years? Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s all very straightforward—citrusy, maritime, and smoky—minimalist to the point of being almost abstract. A clean, no-frills style that leaves no room for debate: you’ll either love it or not, and we’re firmly in the ‘love it’ camp. With water: ashes and brine step forward. Mouth (neat): stunningly simple, even disarmingly so. Think peppered lemons and oysters, all drenched in seawater, with a faint touch of slightly vanilla-ed limoncello. With water: utterly elemental. Finish: long, just a tad oilier and even lightly liqueur-like, with a peppery edge. Comments: the beauty of simplicity itself. A child’s smile, a bird’s song, a song by Khruangbin, and a small dram of this Bowmore—what more could one wish for? Right, world peace and all the war dogs locked away.
SGP:556 - 90 points. |
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Bowmore 19 yo ‘Feis Ile 2024’ (54.8%, OB, double-matured in virgin American oak barrels, 3,500 bottles)
We’ve come across some ‘Feis’ Bowmores in the past that were borderline overwhelming—stifling, even cloying, thanks to overbearing cask influence. But this one promises to be a different story, so let’s dive in. Colour: deep gold. Nose: a clear nod to deep-charred barrels here. Vanilla, pineapple, mango, golden delicious apples, and banana dominate—seductive and luscious, though not especially ‘Bowmore’. To be fair, it’s not veering into Jack Daniels territory either—let’s not get carried away. With water: more balance emerges, with faint hints of classic Bowmore markers, though we’re not quite in rollmop territory. Mouth (neat): you’d have to be a real killjoy not to enjoy this ultra-creamy, fruity profile. Banana, grapefruit, and mango liqueurs, all gently draped in soft, caressing peat (yes, caressing—why not?). With water: coconut and a touch of tikka masala peek through, before green oak tannins make their presence felt. Finish: the least convincing part, with powdered coconut and over-brewed tea taking the lead. Comments: there’s no denying this is a very well-constructed ‘Bourbmore’. But would you want three glasses in a row? Probably not.
SGP:654 - 85 points. |
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Bowmore 1997/2023 (46.1%, Berry Bros. & Rudd for Kensington Wine Market, sherry butt, cask #85, 98 bottles)
The 1990s marked Bowmore’s triumphant return to form, following some rather erratic years that we’ll revisit shortly. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a beautifully maritime whisper, all finesse and delicacy. Fine brine, seaweed, samphire, winkles, grey shrimp, and an elegant manzanilla character—think of Callejuela’s finest ‘añadas’. Add to that ashes, resinous touches, a hint of tobacco, and a waft of beechwood smoke. The nose is an absolute masterpiece, exuding almost Florentine grace. Mouth: bang, it all comes alive! Lemon, green pepper, charcoal, bitter woods, peat, lemon zest, grapefruit, sage, star anise, and wormwood in perfect harmony. Oh, and oysters—how could I forget the oysters? Finish: a little sherry re-emerges, vying for control with notes of green walnut. The oysters strike back—what a delightful tussle. Comments: superb and emblematic of Bowmore’s renaissance. The only snag is the stock being in Calgary, and from WF HQ, it’s a 14-hour flight via Schiphol.
SGP:456 - 91 points. |
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Flowermore 38 yo 1985/2024 (53.3%, WhiskyLand, Decadent Drinks, refill barrel, 171 bottles)
The most notorious vintage of Bowmore’s mid-80s, crafted under the watchful eye of Big Jim McEwan during his time as distillery manager. These years are infamous for the ‘FWP’ phenomenon coined by pioneering whisky freak ‘Bushido’ (and an increasingly forgotten acronym, and perhaps rightly so), dominated by Parma violets and sometimes lavender-scented eau de toilette. Yet, after nearly forty years, a few casks appear to have worked some molecular alchemy. In that case, these vintages, once hysterical, are now undeniably historical (ooh that’s lousy, S.). For those curious, see Dave Broom’s 2005 Lavender Lament from the Malt Maniacs archives. Colour: light gold. Nose: the DNA is unmistakable, with lavender and violet bonbons present, though now balanced by maritime and peaty elements that take centre stage. A heathery, slightly modelling clay note emerges, evoking a famous Orkney malt. There’s also a hint of clams and mussels, adding briny depth. With water: grenadine and rosemary. Mouth: as if someone brewed a tisane with lavender, seawater, smoked kippers, shellfish, and thyme. A surprising harmony as all these notes dance together instead of clashing. With water: blood orange, sea spray, and Toulouse violet sweets—the finest kind, naturally. Finish: medium length, with the floral and maritime aspects in perfect equilibrium. Comments: well, that was easy—all it took was thirty-eight years. Still a touch eccentric, but unquestionably the best Bowmore from these years I’ve ever tasted. True collector’s item in that sense. One point for historical significance added.
SGP: 753 - 90 points. |
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Bowmore 1969/1978 (GL. 58, OB for Fecchio & Frassa, sherry cask, cask #6638, 75cl)
Killer vintages, killer series. Yet another homage to our Italian friends, who had the infuriating knack of nabbing all the best whisky casks back in the day. Just imagine—this gem is likely no older than 8 years, perhaps 9 at most. Every Bowmore bottled for Fecchio & Frassa around the distillery’s bicentenary was of utterly über-interstellar quality. To the best of living memory, nothing finer has ever been crafted along the shores of Loch Indaal. By the way, ‘G.L.’ stands for Gay-Lussac degrees, essentially equivalent to % ABV. Colour: white wine. Nose: forget it, this is just going to hurt. Pink grapefruit, delicate oils and waxes, a tidal wave of maritime elements—you get the idea. Really, it’s a whole, seamless entity, defying decomposition into individual descriptors. With water: a sort of oily tension dominates here, in the best possible way. If I were to show off (again, S.), I’d liken it to the engine oil of Ayrton Senna’s McLaren after 300km of fierce battle with Prost’s. Mouth (neat): absolutely outrageous. Salinity turned up to 11, alongside oils, waxes, citrus galore… With water: quintessential Bowmore. Salty, waxy, brimming with fermented fruits, citrus, seaweed, aged tar, and long-forgotten medicinal liqueurs. Finish: alas, it ends—but oh, what a journey! Comments: none. What could possibly be said?
SGP:565 - 95 points. Or maybe 96. Does it even matter? |
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Bowmore 1955/1974 ‘For 12th September 1974’ (unknown ABV, OB, 100 half jugs)
Perhaps the rarest of the genuine Bowmores. Naturally, we’ve tasted it before, but this comes from a different jug, and frankly, any excuse to revisit something like this is more than welcome. |
Let’s dive in—quickly, we promise (unless you object, of course). This particular bottling was created to mark the opening of Bowmore’s visitor centre in 1974. Worth noting, the whisky might have evolved in its little jug since we first encountered it back in 2012, though this isn’t the same jug. Colour: white wine. Nose: pink grapefruit and mango shine alongside pistachio oil. It’s that unmistakable fruity brilliance from Bowmore’s golden era, circa 1950 to 1967, showing not the slightest sign of fatigue. Dazzling, like a grand white Graves from a vintage contemporary to this Bowmore. Mouth: exotic fruits weave seamlessly together, underpinned by salty and mineral notes that provide structure. There’s a faint suggestion of clay, possibly imparted by the jug itself. Finish: the majesty of an aged white wine, with delicate vulnerabilities adding to its allure—again, very much like a great Graves blanc. No need to name any particular château. Comments: our conclusions remain unchanged from before, though the peat seems to have receded slightly here—just a hunch. Still, what a masterpiece. There, down the hatch!
SGP:653 - 96 points. |
UPDATE we're republishing the inside of the amazing little leaflet that was to be found in the box. Thanks Thomas. |
(Gracias Angus & grazzie mille, KC) |
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December 8, 2024 |
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Antique Cognacs
(a slightly disrupted session) |
It’s time to conclude our little vertical tasting of high-quality vintage cognacs. So far, we’ve successfully avoided the overly standardised blends of the big brands and the borderline obscurations, and we’ve happily explored vintages ranging from 1989 to 1970 two weeks ago, then from 1961 to 1940 last week. Today, we’ll naturally have to leap over the Second World War, but not without first enjoying a pleasant little aperitif...
Every 20 to 25 years, major brands try to promote the use of their spirits in the world of cocktails, often in an effort to offset periods of declining sales. Here, Courvoisier in the 1950s offered a blend said to be perfect for a "long drink," clearly inspired by whisky, which was begining to flood into France after World War II. |
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Tiffon ‘Très Vieille Réserve’ (43%, OB, Tiffon, Grande Champagne, +/-2024)
We first tasted this exactly 10 years ago, and here we have a much more recent bottling. We know it’s very good. Colour: copper amber. Nose: absolutely explosive on the nose, almost like an old gewurztraminer late harvest, and let’s admit, an old pineau des Charentes. The kind of thing one would never have drunk until the good people of Cognac started letting us taste old family barrels. What a revelation, the only issue being to determine the ideal serving temperature—several schools of thought, it seems. But back to this very lovely Cognac: so, old pineau, then very old Malaga, raisins, artisanal peach liqueur, and some tertiary notes of morels, tobacco, damp earth, and liquorice. At no point do the 43% feel like a hindrance. Mouth: inevitably a little less emphatic and slightly drying, perhaps due to the ancient casks and the relatively low strength. But this blend of liquorice, pine resin, and orange liqueur works beautifully. Tobacco returns with a hint of menthol. Finish: medium in length and still slightly drying, but the flavours are spot on. A touch of leather. Comments: one dreams of three or four extra degrees of alcohol, but the overall experience is simply excellent. We’ve just discovered that the youngest Cognac in this blend is 80 years old, so there must surely be some pre-war spirit in this little gem.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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Maison Prunier ‘Lot 28’ (49.3%, Through the Grapevine, 7.0, Grande Champagne, 2024)
A very old vintage, aged in roux oak (aka refill) before being transferred to a demijohn in the early 1960s. So, we can estimate roughly 35 years in wood + 60 years in glass = around 45 years by my entirely unscientific reckoning. Colour: mahogany. Nose: tar, mint, and basalt, I’d say, before adding the eternal vineyard peaches and a few touches of beeswax, old books, abbey libraries, wild mushrooms, chestnut honey, and little liquorice pastilles like those cachous we have in France. Maybe they added a few to the demijohn (just joking!). Mouth: an iron fist in a velvet glove. Honey, sweet liquorice, sultanas, and citrus marmalade upfront, but also brown tobacco, black tea, pine buds, and ground coffee in the background. The whole thing works to perfection. Finish: long, leaning more towards oak, black tea, and dark chocolate, with a touch of herbaceousness, but never becoming overly drying. Comments: two geniuses were active in the early 1960s—(Sir) Paul McCartney and the great soul who decided to transfer this admirable old Cognac to a demijohn.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
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François Voyer ‘Temps Magique Lot 19.20’ (43.8%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2024)
We’re not entirely sure how to interpret the lot number—1920? A multivintage 1919+1920? A 1919 transferred to a demijohn in 2020 and bottled in 2024? Let’s leave the mystery hanging—why must we always know everything? Colour: walnut stain. Nose: those initial puffs of pinewood suggesting very prolonged maturation in wood, then shifting to other resins (spruce, cedar) before an outright explosion of fruits, both dried and very ripe. Multiple kinds of raisins, figs, slices of pear, dates, prunes, and finally a freshly opened box of ‘deluxe’ pipe tobacco. Even if you don’t or no longer smoke, it’s worth picking up a small packet just to log the aromas in your cerebral library (right?). Of course, we’re not talking about smoking the stuff. Then, a few touches of liquorice, tar, more pine resin, turpentine, and old orange liqueur… All in all, quite a magical nose. Mouth: the wood is present, ‘of course’, but it’s very delicate and wrapped in honey, beeswax, and citrus marmalade. It’s much more compact than on the nose, but that’s often the way with very old spirits. It evolves logically towards pine bud liqueur, very dry rancio, and bitter chocolate. Finish: not many changes here; the bitter chocolate and pine resin remain firmly in control. Comments: what’s astonishing is how you feel the spirit of the times in which this marvel was distilled—so, the roaring twenties—but also other ancient beverages of the era, such as medicinal liqueurs, elixirs, and cordials. Truly a window to the past, and you almost want to put on Bix Beiderbecke or Maurice Chevalier on the old crank-driven phonograph at WF HQ. That alone earns it one extra point.
SGP:571 - 93 points. |
Well, we thought we also had three recent bottlings of much older vintages, but we got it wrong—they were the bottling numbers, not the batch/vintages. What a blunder! But instead of reimbursing you, we’d like to make it up to you with some very old bottles, if that works for you… |
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Grande Champagne 1906 (Jacksons de Piccadilly, ‘Qualité Exceptionnelle’, 1950s)
Bottled for the iconic London grocers, tea house, and wine merchants Jacksons of Piccadilly, whose brand was later acquired by Twinings. The mention of “The Queen” on the label and the absence of a strength indication suggest a bottling from the 1950s, likely featuring a Grande Champagne cognac of about fifty years. Probably crafted from grafted vines post-phylloxera, though not certain—Cognac retained 40,000ha of vineyards around 1906 compared to over 300,000ha in 1870 and 75,000ha today (with yields now much higher). Colour: deep gold. Nose: quite a bit of OBE, I’d say, but this old cognac starts off much drier, focused on saps and resins, before opening into grilled tones, sautéed mushrooms, and brown tobacco. One is transported to a pine forest, among moss, ferns, and fungi—you might only miss a bit of game trotting by. Mouth: the profile remains consistent, with pine sap and touches of liquorice sweets, followed by a salty brothiness and that celebrated old rancio, showing a well-matured woodiness and hints of ham. A trace of mead appears, with very little fruit, though the whole is utterly captivating. Not overly powerful but poised, holding itself admirably without any kind of decline. Finish: of medium length, a bit softer with the late arrival of some raisins that enhance the rancio. Slightly oxidative, with a persistently saline aftertaste. Comments: I must admit, I’m impressed by how well this very London-esque Grande Champagne has held up. And I do have a soft spot for pine sap.
SGP:461 - 90 points. |
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Lauzac 1906 ‘Borderie’ (37.3%)
This one came with a charming little handwritten label, possibly a private bottling, or perhaps the original label was lost or replaced by this artisanal substitute. The ABV reflects the cognac's strength at the time of opening, measured using our friend Angus’s trusty Anton Parr electronic alco-meter, after he uncovered this Borderies gem. That said, the name ‘Lauzac’ offers no clues about any known location or cognac house, though there is a Château Lauzac in Bordeaux. Perhaps this is an old brandy de Bordeaux, with “borderie” referring, in French, to a small farm rather than Cognac’s famous cru. A real mystery! Colour: brownish amber. Nose: not very powerful, but honey and old raisins emerge, like those found in a tin box tucked away for decades. This develops into sweet wine notes, reminiscent of old malmsey Madeira, fruit pudding, and inevitably, Christmas cake. O Tannenbaum, O Tannenbaum, wie treu... It’s all wonderfully old-school, with a touch of sticky Jerez brandy about it. Mouth: that’s spot on—honey, pancake syrup, heaps of raisins, and lush dessert wines (think Tokaji, Rivesaltes, Pineau…). Then come delightful hints of aromatic herbs, aniseed, and pipe tobacco. It may feel slightly “doctored” but doesn’t veer into coffee liqueur territory. Finish: fairly long, almost sticky with sugary sweetness, though the herbs keep it afloat beautifully. Comments: a rather luscious old cognac (or brandy) that brings to mind the style beloved by my dearly missed grandparents. I’m thinking of them as I savour the last drops of this charming ‘Lauzac’.
SGP:650 - 89 points. |
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Courvoisier 60 yo ‘The Brandy of Napoléon’ (Grande Fine Champagne, late 1930s)
The “60 ans” is indicated on the first label, while the second states “by appointment to the late King George V”, who passed in 1936. Likely bottled in the late 1930s then, this would include distillates from the 1860s–1870s, around the time phylloxera began ravaging the Charente vineyards (mainly planted with folle blanche) in 1872. While folle blanche now accounts for just 1% of the region’s vines, it’s enjoying renewed focus in some cuvées, and this venerable Courvoisier is likely mostly, if not entirely, folle blanche. Let’s dive in! Colour: walnut stain. Nose: we rarely taste these major brands—perhaps not malternative enough for this humble site—but I recall trying the full Erté Collection, all around 60 years old, with vintages going down to 1892. Some were excellent; might this even older 60-year-old be in the same league? Its deep, almost opaque colour signals a decidedly ‘retro’ style, to say the least. The nose is unique, rich with chestnut cream, milk chocolate, hazelnut spread (from a famous brand), Corinth raisins, umeshu, mocha, and pipe tobacco. There’s a touch of morels and earthy humus typical of ancient bottles, yet it’s not at all mouldy—on the contrary, it’s rather majestic (though we wouldn’t quite call it imperial). Mouth: the “Brandy of Napoléon” tagline doesn’t imply distillates from the early 19th century (or the famous comet year of 1811), but perhaps some from the Second Empire (1852–1870) could be present. It's the brand's tagline anyway. After the glorious nose, the palate feels more liqueur-like, as these old cognacs often do, lacking the definition of finer WF stalwarts. Loads of raisins and sweet wines with a pronounced “brandy” character, but hardly any fresh fruit or spices. It’s nearly a slightly sugar-stripped liqueur with notes of pine buds, coffee, chocolate, fig, and honey liqueurs. Some Cognac houses do make such honey-based liqueurs (Normandin comes to mind), as do whisky distilleries (Jack, Irish Mist, Drambuie, Bushmills, Atholl Brose, etc.). Finish: medium length, sweet, leaning on raisins, dessert wines (moscatel), and dark, slightly tannic honey. Comments: rather at the top of the range for this charmingly antique, elegantly old-fashioned style.
SGP:631 - 88 points. |
(Merci, Monsieur Angus !) |
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December 7, 2024 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Three Benromach
I seem to recall writing some Benromach notes for WF not too long ago, but there’s some intriguing looking new ones on the desk, plus I bought a bottle of the 10 year old for festive purposes and, most importantly, I really like Benromach. So, excuses duly submitted, let’s commence… |
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Benromach 10 yo (43%, OB, 2024) 
Colour: pale gold. Nose: a soft, mineral sherry, with impressions of mechanical stuff, toolboxes, oiled bike chain, bone marrow and suet. Some soft, heathery peat in the background too, with also a nicely coal-dusty and sooty edge. Has an old school character that almost comes across as old bottle effect, with these fun notes that suggest metal polish, steel wool and old pewter hip flasks or drinking goblets. Mouth: graphite oil and muddy peat, with lanolin, rather salty, drying sherry character and even a waxy side that begins to emerge. Rugged and robust whisky that definitely carries an element of older school charm and charisma. Also gives a feeling of mineral oils and a slightly earthy, mossy quality. Finish: medium length, more soft peaty and peppery notes, a nicely oily quality and some more salty sherry notes. Recalls some older Taliskers in some way. Comments: bang for your buck! A charmingly composed mix of full-bodied, slightly older style distillate with elegant sherry influence and well-balanced peat. How often do they prepare batches of this bottling I wonder, should we expect some charming batch variation? Either way, an excuse to try it pretty regularly I would say.
SGP: 563 - 87 points. |
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Benromach 18 yo 2005/2024 (57.3%, OB for Hedonism Wines, #14197428, 1st fill sherry hogshead, 286 bottles) 
A new bottling for the excellent Hedonism Wines in London. Colour: deep gold. Nose: the 10yo at warp 9! That is to say, this familiar integration of soft peat and sherry, but only with much more assertive earthiness, spiced marmalade, faded peat smoke, camphor and many elegant herbal qualities, such as bitters, teas and ointments. Also vibes of very old liqueurs such as Drambuie and Grand Marnier. With water: becomes more mentholic, with pine resin, dried mint and eucalyptus impressions. Some crystallised ginger and citrus peels as well. Mouth: muscular, vibrant and meaty sherry, with natural tars, hardwood resins, leaf mulch, tobaccos and walnut wine. Some more liqueurs, Green Chartreuse this time, and things like toasted fennel seed, dried tarragon, verbena and woodruff. Add to that some aniseed and slightly more medicinal, cough syrup vibes too. With water: leans more towards the gamier sides now, with animalistic touches, game broth, suet, old pinot noir and waxy qualities. Finish: long, peppery, earthy, waxy, mentholated and elegantly peaty. This gamey, mineral and earthy, drying sherry dominates the aftertaste beautifully. Comments: tip top modern Benromach from a rugged and excellent sherry cask. Love this tense, powerful and sinewy profile.
SGP: 463 - 90 points. |
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Benromach 21 yo 2002/2024 (56.6%, OB for Capital Whisky Club, cask #971, 1st fill bourbon barrel, 170 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: green fruits and crushed nettles galore! Possesses this sort of sharp, green, lively profile that makes you think of top class New Zealand sauvignon blanc, with these notes of kiwi, gooseberry, grass, nettles, lime and passionfruit. This also has a beautiful waxiness along with a soft, brittle and coastal peat smoke that brings to mind 1990s Springbank of similar age. Continues with shoe polish and flower honey. Something for everyone! With water: more herbal now, some coconut and sandalwood, more medicinal impressions with witchhazel and a touch of antiseptic. Mouth: terrific arrival, the fruitiness is a little more sticky, sweet and syrupy here, more flower nectars, sweet honey, lime curd, barley water, waxes, pollens, sweetened breakfast cereals and fruit teas. With water: back to sharper green fruits, tart cider apples, greengage, lime and nettle once again. Finish: long, on candied citrus peels, bergamot, lemon oil, waxes and camphor. Comments: top class older Benromach once again, almost 91! These early 2000s casks seem to be unbeatable just now.
SGP: 653 - 90 points. |
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December 6, 2024 |
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Glen Spey x 3
As part of our special programme, "Supporting Distilleries That Are All Too Often Overlooked", we’ll be tasting three young Glen Spey once again. It must be said, we’re keeping up a good pace—we’ve already sampled 80 since the start of this lousy website! |
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Glen Spey 12 yo (43%, OB, Flora & Fauna, +/-2024)
One of the malts found in J&B, and one we tend to revisit roughly every decade. Let’s hope Diageo keeps this little gem in their portfolio, as the tiny goldcrest (Regulus regulus) mascot on the label is simply delightful. Fun fact: it’s said that Michael Jackson was the one who suggested the name 'Flora & Fauna' to UDV (pre-Diageo). Colour: white wine. Nose: not the sort to summon the entire whisky universe, but it seems better than before, with a rather charming fruity nose of ripe apple and yellow melon, followed by cake batter and a touch of wheat beer. Fruitier than I recall, which is a pleasant surprise. Mouth: quite good, though perhaps less compact and harmonious than ideal. A touch fermentary and rooty (think salsify), but lifted by notes of greengages, cider, and beer. Fresh almonds lend a mildly bitter edge. Finish: not overly long, with a slightly herbal and waxier profile emerging. Very ripe apples return in the aftertaste, giving a nice echo. Comments: I’d say it’s improved since last time, and that goldcrest is just so endearing. To be honest, we don’t really know if it’s an old batch they’re selling off bit by bit, in which case the changes would come from ageing in the bottle, or if they’re still producing new batches from time to time.
SGP:441 - 79 points. |
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Glen Spey 10 yo 2012/2022 (54.6%, Lady of the Glen, ex-wine barrique, cask #800062, 311 bottles)
Admirable, really, that an independent bottler has the audacity to shine a light on such an unassuming distillery as Glen Spey. Let us sing their praises to the rafters, barrique be damned! Colour: straw. Nose: hurrah, not a jot of vinosity! Instead, apples, apples, and yet more apples, which suits us fine as we’re rather fond of the things. “Eat apples!” as Chirac would have said. A splash of water? Why not. With water: a touch of shoe polish and fresh rubber (tyres for Tesla), then bitter almonds before it fades a little on the nose. Mouth (neat): delightful! Grapefruit, citron, Spanish apple liqueur (masters of the craft, those Spaniards), and lashings of ripe papaya. What fun this is. With water: shifts sweetly towards candied treats, with a subtle edge of pepper and a faint nod to mezcal. Finish: long and fairly sweet—was it a sweet wine cask, perhaps? Comments: a splendid surprise, this young Glen Spey. The choice of a wine barrique, dare I say it, was a stroke of genius this time—or perhaps I’m overstating things.
SGP: 651 - 85 points. |
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Glen Spey 2011/2024 (56%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 24005, 305 bottles)
After a parade of brilliant recent ‘Rare Casks’ from Malts of Scotland, it’s rather grounding to dip into something a touch more down-to-earth—or so one assumes. Let’s see, shall we? Colour: full gold. Nose: this one opens with a whiff of shoe polish, soon transitioning to candle wax, waxed apple skins, fresh almonds, and a spritz of good kirsch—the kind that reminds you how marvellous kirsch can be. Then on to cherry-flavoured Belgian beer (kriek, naturally). With water: metal polish joins in, alongside some fresh rhubarb. Mouth (neat): orange and pistachio cake take the lead, wrapped in a swirl of spices—aniseed, pepper, cinnamon. It’s like a tray of Christmas biscuits, perfectly timed for the season. With water: just as anticipated, speculoos appear, pairing wonderfully with that iconic Belgian cherry beer. My Belgian friends remain baffled that I enjoy such things, but I love cherries. Finish: medium length, the flavours grow a touch more disparate and lean towards the herbal, but no harm done. Comments: an international scandal, losing two points at the finish line! Still a delightful dram, mind.
SGP: 551 - 84 points. |
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December 5, 2024 |
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WF's little duos, two Strathmills for Glory
As you know, we've made it our mission to sample as often as possible (and "possible" is the key word here) whiskies from those distilleries you rarely come across—ones originally designed to supply the big-name blends that were ruling the whisky world just two decades ago. Strathmill, located in Keith, is a prime example. The main misconception? "If the owners never really released it as a single malt, it must not be any good." What a rookie mistake, my friend... Here, let's start things off with an official Strathmill to set the tone. |
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Strathmill 15 yo ‘The Manager’s Dram’ (53.5%, OB, refill cask, 2003)
What an utterly charming label! A quick reminder that for this series, managers genuinely selected the casks, while the delightful name “refill cask” is a nod to a time when, in 2003, no one had yet conjured the bright idea of charging more for younger whisky by hyping the cask type over the age. But let’s not harp on… Colour: straw. Nose: an incredible sweetness and aromatic glow of malted barley, gentle ale, white nougat, apple tart, and wildflower honey. It’s magic – simple, perfect magic. With water: the pure beauty of nature captured in a dram. Mouth (neat): a flawless reflection of the nose – barley, apples, candied sugar, beer, perfectly ripe pears, and honey. Bright, excellent, and a choice that feels unmistakably “Distillery Manager’s own”. With water: astonishingly good, by a triple-necked electric guitar! Gorgeous malty biscuits, honey, soft polenta, a touch of vanilla, and a dash of orgeat syrup. Finish: medium in length, with a faint touch of putty but entirely consistent with everything before. Comments: an authentic, agricultural-style whisky that feels refreshingly untainted by marketing interference (and I say that as a proud member of that peculiar tribe).
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
Well, it’s true, isn’t it? If you read any old and glorious book about whisky, they’ll always tell you that the three essential ingredients are barley, yeast, and water. Wood was never mentioned. |
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Strathmill 10 yo 2014/2024 (58.1%, Lady of the Glen, Amarone finish, cask #802139, 282 bottles)
The other day I mused that Amarone finishings are rather clever, as the wine itself, barring a few exceptions, can be rather challenging to enjoy straight. For those unfamiliar, Amarone is a robust Italian red, crafted from partially dried grapes in Veneto's Valpolicella region – often found gracing pizzeria wine lists. It also happens to be part of the rare 5% of Italian wines I don’t particularly care for, which by happy implication means I adore the remaining 95%. Italian wines for the win! Colour: apricot. Nose: a fine example of a finishing that doesn’t hammer home the wine’s identity – a blessed relief. There are touches of roasted peppers and stewed tomatoes, interwoven with fresh thyme and pine needles, evolving into orange cake spiced with clove and a touch of moss. Really rather charming, and far from a hasty ‘quick-dip’ finish. With water: a touch of earth and a whisper of cardamom emerge. Mouth (neat): surprisingly good. The wine does introduce a significant sweetness, almost like a liqueur, with notes of peppered cherries, strawberries, roasted peppers, and tomatoes mingling with juniper. It feels as though we’ve strayed from whisky territory, but the craftsmanship remains impressive – an uncharted flying whisky, or UFW. With water: a bridge-like quality comes through, suggesting a long maturation to smooth things out, though the sweetness is still quite bold. Finish: rather long, gentle, syrupy, but never cloying. Comments: how to put it? A style I don’t care for, executed with remarkable precision. Now it feels a bit like the end of the Amarone-finishing road – any further and you’d be left with fortified wine spiked with whisky. Take the score with a massive pinch of salt.
SGP: 751 - 82 points. |
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December 4, 2024 |
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Six Aberlours Before Christmas
Aberlour, the malt whisky king of France—or at least one of the leaders, with exclusive vintages available at our hypermarkets, for example. And they’re good… But that’s not what we’ll be tasting today.
(Perfect music for The Sponge's pretty glam old Aberlour)
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Aberlour ‘A’bunadh Batch #77’ (60.8%, OB, Spanish oloroso butts, 2023)
As ever, keeping up with Aberlour’s batches feels like chasing one’s tail, but we do try to sample at least one out of every two or three since that very first ‘no batch number’ release back in 1998 (WF 88). The last one we tasted, Batch #75 from 2022, struck us as particularly rustic compared to others (WF 84). Colour: full gold. Nose: Kicks off with the ever-faithful walnut and honey cake, a touch of fresh varnish and coconut in the background, then a wave of sticky toffee pudding and roasted pecans. That’s pretty much irresistible. With water: just a whisper of brake pad smoke, a hint of roasted aubergine, and then the usual parade of dried fruits, chocolate, roasted malt, and spices. Mouth (neat): very classic—chocolate-covered cherries (Mon Chéri), raisins, and fruitcake. That usual powerful delivery, slightly perilous if you’re not careful, given how deceptively easy it drinks. With water: this strikes me as a solid batch. Lovely pepperiness, bitter oranges, black coffee, cherry stones, ginger, and nutmeg. Finish: extremely long, with spiced caramel making its mark alongside a good dose of liquorice. Comments: there’s also a touch of violet-tinged liquorice lingering in the retro-olfaction.
SGP: 661 - 87 points. |
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Aberlour 11 yo 2012/2024 (59.3%, James Eadie, first fill oloroso butt finish, cask #367507, 545 bottles)
We’re in very familiar territory here, and it looks promising… Colour: amber. Nose: the style is very close to the A’bunadh, but this one leans slightly more towards plum jam and honey, after a faintly leafy opening. A touch of teriyaki adds a savoury twist. With water: all about the chocolate, really going all in. Mouth (neat): strikingly similar to A’bunadh, with an intense dose of chocolate liquorice, orange zest, and candied ginger coated in dark chocolate. With water: beautifully crafted, though that’s no surprise. You can tell there’s a superb cask behind this. Finish: long, with that wonderful liquorice lingering, plus a subtle saline edge that keeps things interesting. A perfect finish. Comments: a finish so seamless it could easily be mistaken for full maturation.
SGP: 651 - 88 points. |
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Aberlour 2008/2024 (54.1%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 24030, 274 bottles)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: this one is quite similar again, but a touch earthier, opening on shoe polish and wax before fresh walnuts tumble into black tea (if you like). With water: a mix of bouillon, metal polish, and a hint of brine. Mouth (neat): very rich, starting with notes of black truffle, then more liquorice, moving boldly into salmiak. Dark cherries, kirsch, and chocolate follow shortly after. The truffle sticks around (think tuber melanosporum), joined by chocolate truffles and whisky truffles (naturally). With water: similar, but with added green spices and a hint of smoked paprika. Finish: long, with the expected arrival of orange marmalade. Comments: more rustic, less polished than the others, but I like it a lot too. You just have to enjoy truffle.
SGP: 561 - 86 points. |
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Aberlour 14 yo 2008/2023 (54.8%, OB, Distillery Reserve Collection, 1st fill barrel, cask #636262, 300 bottles)
Bourbon, for a change. Colour: white wine. Nose: a true breath of fresh air after all those splendid sherry monsters. Here we’re on redcurrants, fresh barley, golden apples, orgeat, delicate orange blossom biscuits, and a hint of banana… absolutely delightful. With water: chalk, champagne, honeysuckle, and bread dough. Nothing to fault here. Mouth (neat): fairly powerful but fresh and, above all, very floral this time, beyond the various kinds of apple we detect. There’s also a touch of violet and a subtle hop note. With water: that typical fruitiness of sherry-free Aberlour, reminiscent of a little orchard in the countryside. People often say ‘priest’s garden’, though whether that phrase still holds much meaning is debatable. Finish: medium in length, fresh, lively, and full of liquorice (liquorice allsorts, to be precise). Comments: a very, very pretty dram, the perfect malt for the next spring. We’re either slightly ahead of schedule… or slightly behind, agreed?
SGP: 651 - 88 points. |
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Aberlour 15 yo 2008/2024 (59.1%, LMDW, Artist #14, oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #801189, 266 bottles)
I find these bottles and labels so pretty that you could almost forget about what’s inside. Of course, I’m joking—well you know what I mean… Colour: light mahogany. Nose: back to metal polish, shoe polish, dark chocolate, and roasted nuts… It’s the polish that really stands out here, and I’m very curious to see what water will do to this fairly massive oloroso. Also, roasted chestnuts. With water: not many changes, though you do get faint notes of chicken and beef bouillon, marrow dumplings, and dry-cured ham, all in subtle touches. Mouth (neat): an explosion of chocolates, pepper, and prunes—especially damson. Then it grows increasingly into tobacco and old walnuts. We’re definitely talking about dark fruits here. With water: Christmas jam, spices, cloved oranges, and ginger chocolate… Finish: long and drier, with plenty of tobacco. Coffee and chocolate linger on the aftertaste. Comments: we’re getting close to the greatness of the old sherried square OB bottles, aren’t we?
SGP: 561 - 89 points. |
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Aberlour 33 yo 1989-1991/2024 (49.7%, Whisky Sponge, Decadent Drinks, refill hogsheads, 295 bottles)
The two vintages aren’t explicitly mentioned on the label, but the design—this time around—seems to suggest that we should don platform boots, round Janis-style sunglasses, and sleeveless Afghan waistcoats while sipping this dram to the sound of Marc Bolan. Tempting as that may be, let’s skip the costume (been there, done that). Still, incredible that The Sponge managed to unearth old Aberlour like this. Colour: white wine. Nose: it feels almost youthful, yet with surprising complexity for what might be considered a “young” whisky—if you get my drift. It’s all about time, not wood or wine. Reminds me of something César Giron, one of Pernod Ricard’s big bosses, said in Le Figaro this morning: “What does it take to craft a great spirit? Time. Patience. Time is something money cannot buy. Our craft is, in a way, selling time—true luxury.” Spot on. Here we start with delicate resins, flowers, herbs, oil paint, and fine leather polish, giving the impression of stepping into an old Rolls-Royce (I imagine—I lack the experience). Then apples, mint, dill, and subtle honeyed touches. Deeply complex, yet unhurried—like an Ingmar Bergman film. A whisky for art-house enthusiasts, or a “slow whisky.” Mouth: about thirty types of apples and plums, paired with twenty varieties of honey and honeydew. I’m summarising. Then those fine herbs—dill, woodruff, savoury, watercress—everything is so refined. Finish: fairly long, leaning more into a ‘honeyed’ sweetness (though not sugary), with a spiced mead vibe and a touch of mint. Citrus comes in towards the end, lifting the aftertaste and adding a refreshing twist. Comments: very much in the style of the early 1970s—think vintage Glenlivet, Glen Grant, or Caperdonich. Torn between 90 and 91 points, but Christmas is near, so let’s play Bang a Gong (Get It On) and go for…
SGP: 651 - 91 points. |
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December 3, 2024 |
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Secret whiskies from the Orkney Islands that might be Highland Park, but we’re not entirely sure
I’ve said it all in the headline, haven’t I? Once again, we’re taking a leap of faith…
(Gerd Muller 'Der Bomber', 1945-2021)
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An Orkney Distillery 15 yo 2008/2024 (54%, Royal Mile Whiskies, hogshead, cask #35, 345 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: if this isn’t Highland Park, and a truly outstanding one at that, I’ll eat my old Royal Mile Whiskies T-shirt from the 2000s. Please call the Anti-Maltoporn Brigade. Rapeseed oil, beeswax, fresh bread, apples and lemons, damp chalk, and some old fireplace ashes. With water: the sourdough notes come alive. Mouth (neat): sublime. It takes me back to the lovely little 10-year-old official bottling I used to adore, now sadly discontinued (cue Samuel Barber’s Adagio for Strings). Pure waxes, clays, lemons, and seaweed… But by Vishnu, this is absolutely marvellous! With water: wonderfully pure Highland Park, with exquisite bitter herbs lingering in the background. Finish: rather long, oily, zesty with lemon, saline, and just a whisper of fermentary edge. Comments: what a remarkable distillate. At this stage, the only other option is to leave it alone and let it age further—any alien interference would only detract from its brilliance. My take.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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Secret Orkney Distillery 16 yo 2006/2023 (53.2%, Acla Selection, Classic Series, hogshead, cask #54)
Colour: white wine. Nose: we could set a record for the quickest tasting note ever—damp chalk, roasted barley, beach sand, old apples, and a wee candle. With water: freshly baked bread and morning brioche. Mouth (neat): again, what a distillate of absolute brilliance. With water: cider, seawater, lemon juice, and beeswax. Finish: much the same—apple juice, earth, and ashes. Comments: in truth a simple, humble, no-frills Highland Park, but what a distillate! You could drink just this forever and live perfectly happy (though maybe not forever).
SGP:552 - 88 points. |
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Whitlaw 8 yo ‘The High Priest Batch 2’ (52.6%, Brave New Spirits, Whisky of Voodoo, Wine Casks and Burgundy Barriques, 2023)
Voodoo? Shouldn’t that be rum? That said, barriques ought to be Bordeaux, while Burgundy uses pièces (says the resident hair-splitter). In any case, this all sounds like great fun… Colour: gold with a mirabelle hue. Nose: Burgundy on full display—hare’s belly, damp mop, blackcurrant, black cherry, rabbit terrine, and brown tobacco. It’s wild; I find more ‘Burgundy’ in this Highland Park than in some grand Burgundy wines. Just so you know, I did study in Burgundy, for what it’s worth. With water: a touch of pastry and yeast emerges. Mouth (neat): it’s completely over the top—too peppery, too much on stalks, tomato leaf, zest, buds, and a hint of mustiness… And yet, I really like it. Must be my Burgundian side coming through. With water: blackberry and cherry come roaring to the forefront. Finish: medium length, with cherry, buds, and green pepper. Comments: I think this is a playful little dram to be taken with a hefty dose of humour—or perhaps a Burgundy education. I like it, seriously.
SGP:661 - 84 points. |
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Secret Orkney 17 yo 2006/2023 (52.4%, DramCatcher, cask #65)
Colour: white wine. Nose: this is rather gentle and quieter, opening on sunflower and rapeseed oils, then those familiar old apples we keep referencing. Whiffs of peppermint, fresh bread, and even ink, with a curious impression of some newspaper of the day, be it straight from your mailbox or the dog’s slobber. With water: chalk and fresh sourdough bread. Mouth (neat): simply excellent—very natural Highland Park once again. What a distillate! (I feel I should insist). With water: what more to add? Lemon, apple, a touch of seawater, and some rustic farmhouse cider. Finish: fairly long, with a very, very faint cardboardy note that perhaps ties back to that “daily” impression. Lemon takes over beautifully in the aftertaste. Comments: rather simple but truly delightful.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Distilled on Orkney 17 yo 2006/2023 (52.7%, Maltbarn, Seventies, bourbon cask, 347 bottles)
What a lovely label—it looks like a 1972 Mannschaft T-shirt, Gerd Müller and all that. Colour: pale gold. Nose: let’s keep this quick—it’s a crystalline Highland Park with chalk, damp earth, oyster shells, old apples, and paraffin… Nothing out of place here, it seems. With water: roots, a bit of Orkney mud, virgin wool, and grist. Mouth (neat): lively and almost sparkling, evoking a sensation akin to Schweppes. Ginger, cinchona, and dry cider… What kind of sorcery is this? With water: the water tones it down, bringing fresh and preserved fruits, wax, and a drop of seawater back to the fore. Finish: medium in length, slightly fermentary, with hints of uncooked lemon cake. Comments: it feels like the barley is leading the dance here. I really like this. And let’s remember Gerd Müller, der Bomber (RIP)…
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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An Orkney 11 yo 2012/2023 (48%, The Single Malts of Scotland, Reserve Cask, oloroso sherry butt, Parcel No.11)
From three casks. Colour: vermilion copper – something like that. Nose: deeply earthy, with damp soil, undergrowth, chestnuts, mushrooms, and pine needles, followed by varnish, walnut stain, pipe tobacco, and hoisin sauce… I absolutely love all of this. Mouth: brilliant—slightly thick and perhaps a bit heady, but it truly packs a punch, as they say in rock and roll. Rum-laced crème brûlée, dark nougat, freshly cracked pepper, and tobacco… A drop of water reveals a floral side, reminiscent of violets. Finish: long, leaning towards cherry liqueur and pepper, with a touch of juniper in the aftertaste. Comments: it feels as though cherry quietly shaped this Highland Park from start to finish, without us realising it. I rather adore these playful hide-and-seek notes.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Stones of Stenness 9 yo 2014/2024 (58.8%, Single Cask Nation, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #173828, 275 bottles)
It actually spent its last 75 months in 1st fill bourbon, which certainly qualifies as ‘maturation,’ doesn’t it? By the way, Stenness is a stunning alignment of standing stones, located far west of Kirkwall. Colour: gold. Nose: gentler, more composed, and more urbane than many others, yet the barley DNA is unmistakable. Fresh brioche, bread, beer, perhaps a few lentils, and touches of mashed potatoes (50% potatoes, 50% butter, 20% olive oil, naturally). With water: smoke comes to the fore, alongside slag and ashes. Mouth (neat): absolutely beautiful—assertive, lemony, and peppery, with a powerful punch that borders on violent due to all the pepper, but citrus fruits step in masterfully to restore balance. With water: ash and lemon take charge, resolving everything. Finish: long, with even more smoky, salty lemon. Comments: there’s a faint Islay-like character in this Highland Park, but that’s not unheard of. Truly excellent.
SGP:562 - 87 points. |
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Isle of Orkney 16 yo 2007/2023 (60.8%, The Spirits Hunter, for HNWS Taiwan, hogshead, cask #31, 272 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: truly, this feels like an Islay-style Highland Park, with prominent smoke, a clear maritime character, oysters, and seaweed. Had you told me this was Caol Ila, I wouldn’t have called for an ambulance right away. But beware of the high ABV, which can easily deceive the senses. With water: dirty sourdough, rowdy yeasts, and old hipster beer (aren’t all hipsters old now?). Mouth (neat): absolutely perfect—this is Caol Ila. Seriously. With water: no, it’s not Caol Ila, but there are definite similarities, with an unexpected sweet note adding, say intrigue. Finish: long, with almonds and lemon stepping in to restore balance. Comments: the challenge with such high strength is that it can throw you off course. And anyway, we don’t have six hours per whisky to let them get quieter, do we?
SGP:553 - 85 points. |
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Secret Orkney 15 yo 2007/2022 ‘Sunset Boulevard’ (65.8%, Malt Grain & Cane, oloroso quarter cask, cask #208, 151 bottles)
Well, almost 66%, this feels like a pure assassination attempt from our friends in Singapore—I fear we can’t let this slide. Colour: full gold. Nose: at nearly 66% ABV, do we even want to know? Maybe some vanilla cream? With water: not quite sure. Dry biscuits, like those in ubiquitous tins you find in airport shops the world over? Mouth (neat): it’s like drinking straight from a car’s petrol tank. Let’s move on. With water: we often forget that reducing such a beast takes time, and that molecules aren’t always quick to align. Frankly, this one doesn’t quite come together within minutes, maybe hours. Finish: long but a bit indistinct. Salt, lemon, apples, perhaps? Comments: feels a bit like bumping into Mike Tyson in a dark alley—You won’t remember much… Personally, I’d have bottled this at 57%/100 proof; there, I said it. Hugs, peace, and total love to Singapore.
SGP:551 - 82 points. |
Well, this isn't likely to be much better, to be honest... |
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An Orkney Distillery 17 yo 2006/2023 ‘Epitome’ (62.2%, Whiskynaut & Alula, hogshead, cask #3572, 290 bottles)
Still in Asia, among delightful folk who, it seems, are not quite ready to consider slightly lowering the ABV of their whiskies. Colour: light gold. Nose: quite lovely but undeniably powerful, with a boozy edge that feels a touch like a visit to the pharmacy. A few orchard apples do manage to bob up, though. With water: oh, much better indeed! Chalky notes emerge, along with more defined apples, island soils, rainwater, and a touch of lanolin. Mouth (neat): ah indeed, now we’re talking. The sheer quality of the distillate swiftly takes control, and the ethanol quietly retreats into the background. Orchard apples, tiny red berries, hints of shellfish and crustaceans, lemons, and citron zest—everything’s just dandy, as they say. With water: impeccable. Apples again, lemons, grist, sourdough, seaweed, and the rest—simply marvellous. Finish: fairly long, with a sense of adventure that lingers beautifully (what?) Comments: what a dram, and what a duel between the malt and the drinker! I won’t say who emerged victorious, ha-ha.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
It's amusing to note that peat appears intermittently in all these HPs, and not necessarily based on vintages or time periods. Maybe that’s just the casks’ previous contents. Right then, let's carry on... |
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Highland Park 20 yo 2000/2021 (55.1%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, bourbon hogshead, #4.277, ‘A Punch And a Pout, Honey and Heft’, 304 bottles)
– Well, one hopes the person who came up with that name is doing all right, that it wasn’t Angus, and that everyone realises it’s all love and peace here. After all, whisky should be about peace and love, shouldn’t it. Colour: gold. Nose: quite a mix of varnish and old apples to start, and ten minutes in, not much evolution, really. With water: nothing much emerges, perhaps a hint of plaster, but that’s about it. Mouth (neat): slightly better than the nose, though still on the green and slightly aggressive side, with a grassy edge that doesn’t quite lift it. With water: honestly, it’s hard to say – it’s clearly a good malt whisky, but it doesn’t have much more going for it than, say, a Gallagher brothers’ reunion. Finish: medium in length with some pleasant Highland Park markers, though they don’t particularly stand out, and a touch of bitterness on the aftertaste. Comments: a rather tougher Highland Park than usual, one might say. Moderate interest here, shall we say – three years after release, bravo Whiskyfun.
SGP: 451 – 78 points. |
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Orkney Islands 20 yo 2003/2023 (54.7%, Spheric Spirits, refill hogshead, cask 12, 338 bottles)
Straight from Leipzig, the land of JS Bach, the father of all proper music (including Trane, Miles, Ellington, and, err, Mariah Carey – spot the odd one out). Colour: pale gold. Nose: a wonderfully gentle Highland Park, full of vanilla, cake batter, apricots, and mirabelles. Very serene, very zen. With water: turns into straight apple juice – charming and uncomplicated. Mouth (neat): excellent, this one, with a fruity and pastry-like profile that’s lightly dusted with spices, leaning towards pepper. With water: the classic HP character shines through, with pine resin, eucalyptus, wild blueberries (the kind that stain your tongue blue), and beeswax, all lifted by a coastal freshness. A small whelk lost in there too, perhaps. Finish: fairly long, maybe not utterly mind-blowing but clean, malty, and comfortably close to barley. Comments: nothing to add here, it’s actually simply very good.
SGP: 551 – 85 points. |
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Secret Orkney 19 yo 2005/2024 (54.3%, Signatory Vintage, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt, LMDW, cask #17/A63#64, 623 bottles)
One continues to suspect that whoever assigns these cask numbers at Signatory might be on something rather potent, or possibly Amarone, which amounts to the same thing. Colour: golden amber. Nose: praline and cherry clafoutis to start, followed by leather and herbal teas (a touch of thyme in particular). With water: the Orkney ‘terroir’ emerges here, along with soft honeys—gentler than your usual heather honey, to be sure. Mouth (neat): the oloroso does its job beautifully, bringing heaps of nuts, both fresh and aged, paired with orange marmalade and quince jelly—sheer delight. With water: orange cakes, brioche with candied fruits, and rustic country honeys take the stage. Finish: medium in length, with a delicate flourish of orange blossom. Comments: rather superb, though it may not totally measure up to the finest ex-bourbon or refill hogshead versions in my book (but those are rarer than one might wish). That said, not the case at all here, but heavy sherry casks like this can sometimes also be proper burdens.
SGP: 551 – 86 points. |
Alright, one last try—let's head back towards Eastern Switzerland… |
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Secret Orkney Distillery 15 yo 2008/2023 (52.8%, Acla Selection, hogshead, cask #14, 120 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: oh, absolutely—apples, focaccia, bread dough, and sweet beer, something like a gentle IPA with soft yeasty undertones. Delightfully inviting thus far. With water: it tightens up a touch, shifting towards crêpe batter—how curious. Mouth (neat): wonderfully unique, a marriage of apples and beer with a lively vibrancy that feels much bolder than its rather polite 52.8%. With water: everything finds its balance again, calming into a serene harmony as the flavours align beautifully (hold your horse, S.). Finish: long, fresh, and precise, brimming with apples and lemons. Comments: simply splendid—now imagine saying that with the wonderful, lilting accent of eastern Switzerland.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
What we’ve learned today, it seems to me, is that the HP distillate remains highly sensitive to the amount of water you add, and that it’s better to add too little than too much (but that’s almost always the case, except when a spirit is so bad that it’s better to drown it.) |
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December 2, 2024 |
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Independent Highland Park Galore
It’s been quite some time since we’ve had a proper, enjoyable session focused on Highland Park. Admittedly, there are far fewer opportunities these days, as the vast majority of independent bottlings now appear under labels such as Whitlaw (a trade name) or Secret Orkney and other enigmatic aliases. In cases like these, it’s hard not to wonder whether they might actually be Scapa instead—just as many so-called Secret Campbeltown releases are now more likely to be Glen Scotia than Springbank or its associated brands. Right then, let’s dive in, choosing at random this time... |
'Child' by Viktor Ekpuk,
acrylic on canvas, 2022 (LMDW) |
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Highland Park 10 yo 2013/2024 (56.2%, Cane & Grain, Private Reserve, bourbon barrel, cask #4287, 248 bottles)
Colour: Pale white wine. Nose: this is pure newmake spirit, as though it’s been aged in stainless steel rather than a barrel. Buckets of beer—hectolitres, really—alongside doughy bread, a touch of earth and ashes, and just the faintest hint of vanilla. Very amusing. With water: a subtle note of paraffin oil emerges, perhaps even a whisper of fusel oil. Mouth (neat): once again, it’s very much like a barley eau-de-vie. There’s kirsch, perhaps a nod to Williams pear spirit, and yet again, that ashy touch. It’s explosively youthful. With water: water works wonders, bringing out bright lemon, crisp green apple, and a faintly saline edge. Finish: long and incredibly youthful, with a peculiar mix of peppered coffee with salty nuances right at the end. I know. Comments: absolutely one to pick up if you fancy showing your guests what malt whisky tastes like practically straight off the still. Great fun and, most importantly, rarer than you might think.
SGP:652 – 81 points. |
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Highland Park 16 yo 1974 (57%, The Prestonfield, oak cask, cask #7137, 300 bottles, 75cl, +/-1990)
Oops, we’re jumping from one thing to another (we say from the rooster to the donkey in French), but didn’t we agree on a ‘random’ approach? Anyway, “oak cask,” now that’s something we love. Let’s not forget that The Prestonfield was one of the very first labels from Signatory Vintage, and they kept using it for a while. Their Bowmore and Clynelish bottlings are legendary, though I don’t believe I’ve ever tried this Highland Park before. Colour: gold. Nose: an incredible combination of waxes and honeys, very much in keeping with the style of the era. Freshly sawn pinewood, honey, beeswax, fresh mastic, freshly mixed oil paint, and a very old white wine that has aged as gracefully as Helen Mirren (or whichever favourite classic actress you prefer). With water: a bit of umami arrives, along with meaty notes, but all with elegance—like a fine bouillon. Mouth (neat): massive amounts of fir honey, then pine resin and vegetal essences. With water: bitter citrus takes charge, with bold Seville oranges pushing forward. Finish: long and magnificently bitter, like an elixir of Chartreuse. Comments: a style that feels totally old-fashioned and absolutely marvellous. Still, 1974 wasn’t that long ago, was it?
SGP:572 – 92 points. |
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Highland Park 16 yo 2007/2024 (56.1%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, LMDW, refill bourbon barrel, cask #15603520, 229 bottles)
Colour: Straw. Nose: I was expecting a peatier style, but instead, it’s all about brioche with candied fruits. And I’m sorry, but I have to mention panettone yet again. After all, it’s the season, and I’d crawl 100 metres in mud just to grab a small one. With water: doughy bread notes emerge, along with a touch of chalkiness. Mouth (neat): what a flawless distillate! A whole spectrum of lemons—every kind imaginable—followed by honey, especially, of course, heather honey. With water: even more perfect than perfect, with a rich, almost oily texture. Finish: long, peppery, but with yuzu taking the lead. Comments: not a peaty batch of Highland Park, but the quality is extraordinarily high. Best enjoyed with panettone (that’s enough, S.!).
SGP:651 – 89 points. |
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Highland Park 6 yo 2017/2023 (60%, Whisky Dudes, cask #52, tawny Port finish, 161 bottles)
Colour: light reddish amber (or onion peel). Nose: the wine from dear Portugal takes the lead right from the start, with that beautifully oxidised tawny character shining through. Cherries in kirsch, old-fashioned jam, strawberry jelly, and then a gentle peatiness with a touch of ash join the party, creating a delightful sensation of red fruit jam infused with whisky. With water: hints of old wine casks in a damp cellar, complete with dust and cobwebs. Mouth (neat): firmly in the realm of a wine-and-whisky cocktail, with bold pepper and mocha in the background. With water: oddly enough, it works wonderfully. Jams, pepper, clove, Xmas cake… Finish: similar, with overripe black cherries and oranges coming through, though black pepper has the final word. Comments: nothing to fault here—it’s exceptionally well done, though the Port is very forward. In this distinctly European style (and why not?), it’s top-notch, yet still not my favourite style.
SGP:651 – 85 points. |
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Highland Park 20 yo 2003/2024 (56.7%, LMDW, Artist #14, sherry butt, cask #4148, 435 bottles)
Indeed I adore the artwork on the label, so I’ll take the liberty of proposing this new definition of whisky: barley, yeast, water, time, and art. I’ve not mentioned wood on purpose. Colour: full gold. Nose: extremely unusual, starting with varnish and even acetone, followed by bitter almond and turpentine. It almost feels like there’s rye in there. Then come figs and walnut wine, though adding water is a must. With water: still very singular, with more wood varnish, green walnuts, and some slightly overripe apples. Mouth (neat): the cask’s influence is massive, with loads of pepper, juniper, pine sap, varnish, and those bitter almonds again. It’s rather unusual. With water: the cask’s impact becomes even more evident—pine, resins, walnuts, ink, mead, bitter almonds, amaretti biscuits… Finish: long, and the almonds remain dominant. Think Italian almond liqueurs (yes, the Italians again, sacrebleu!). Comments: a truly singular Highland Park, tricky to score. I suspect many will absolutely love it, while others may still be scratching their heads.
SGP:462 – 87 points. |
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Highland Park 1994/2024 (48.1%, Malts of Scotland, Rare Casks, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 24012, 235 bottles)
Let me say it again: there are true gems in this series. Colour: Amber gold. Nose: a classic old-metal note emerges (think old pennies) before quickly shifting to meaty elements like Parma ham, fermenting fruits such as prunes, and a mix of damp earth and spent coffee grounds, with a touch of burnt pinewood. This one feels quite evolved so far. Mouth: and here it is—everything unfolds on the palate. Splendid dark figs and Corinthian raisins, fir honey (a dozen kilos—we love that), mint honey (ever tried it?), followed by Jaffa cakes, pistachio gianduja (enough to tempt a saint), and a very subtle smokiness with earthy undertones, even a hint of glue or varnish. A whole extra dimension, truly. Finish: simply superb. More dark chocolate, orange marmalade, Jaffa cakes, and even a drop of smoky pepper liqueur—if such a thing existed. One must bow with respect. Comments: it’s all about the palate with this 30-year-old beauty, give or take.
SGP:662 – 91 points. |
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Highland Park 20 yo 2003/2024 (54.4%, Acla Selection, Whitlaw, Ski Ladies, hogshead, cask #749)
An amusing label, likely referencing the Swiss Alps rather than Glenshee or Nevis Range—though yes, skiing in Scotland has been a thing too. Colour: Pale white wine. Nose: absolute purity of style, showcasing the grandeur of a fine old hogshead. Furniture polish, lemon zest, fresh barley, a touch of ash, a couple of apples, and even a tiny whelk—et voilà. With water: similar, though perhaps with a bit more apple. Mouth (neat): that lightly waxy and earthy Highland Park fruitiness, but here with a fizzy edge, almost like an old champagne. I’ve no idea where that comes from, but it’s spectacular. With water: still fizzy but now slightly richer, with a faint touch of smoke, more lemon, and hints of verbena and wormwood. Finish: long, still kind of fizzy, now reminiscent of old cider, with pepper and ashes lingering. Comments: I’m absolutely smitten with this unusual fizzy character.
SGP:551 – 87 points. |
We’ll have secret HPs next. |
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December 1, 2024 |
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A vertical tasting of beautiful old Cognac, vintages 1961-1940 |
As promised last Sunday, we'll start with the 1960s (just yesterday, really), but as is often the case, we'll begin with a little aperitif. Right, a post-prandial apéritif – I know, not much sense.
(Too funny, this interpretation of ‘vintage cognac distillers’ by ChatGPT, with its countless mistakes. Especially the bit suggesting "one person working and seven watching.")
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Comte Joseph ‘Hors d’Âge’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2024)
A brand belonging to the vast Grands Chais de France group, which began with Cognac but now owns countless wine houses across all regions, while also distributing spirits such as Guadeloupe’s Bologne rums. This is their own Cognac house, the very origin of the group. The Hors d’Âge range falls under the XO category (or XXO, as of 2018, if I’m not mistaken), but these offerings generally boast ages exceeding 30 years, often showcasing the oldest blends from the cellars (excluding the occasional vintage bottlings). Colour: golden amber. Nose: this is soft, rounded, and smooth, with a combination of acacia honey, orange liqueur, and sultanas upfront, followed by the expected notes of tinned peaches, dried figs, and a faint hint of violet-tinged liquorice. The nose is ultra-balanced, remarkably sweet, and even carries a delicate touch of ripe muscat. |
Mouth: that same balance continues, now with the addition of fresh citrus notes that help to offset the sweetness on the palate. There’s peach skin, honey, liquorice, a subtle hint of lavender bonbons, and an entire bag of honey sweets. Despite the lower bottling strength, there’s no sign of weakness, even though modern enthusiasts are less accustomed to these strengths these days. Finish: medium in length but quite fresh, with no excessive sweetness. Instead, it lingers with hints of dark tobacco and oak while maintaining its equilibrium. Comments: a very traditional style, impeccably executed. It almost feels “familial,” as I struggle to imagine anyone disliking it as a friendly digestif after Christmas dinner with turkey and chestnuts. What’s more, it’s a very affordable old Cognac in terms of value (BFYB).
SGP: 641 - 86 points. |
Let’s move on to (much) older cognacs… |
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François Peyrot ‘Lot 61 Heritage’ (43.8%, OB for Passion for Whisky, Grande Champagne, 180 bottles, 2024)
A striking 63-year-old Grande Champagne Cognac, entirely aged in wood without ever touching a demijohn. colour: amber with copper hues. nose: the antithesis of the Comte Joseph, showing more rugged character with sharper edges and imperfections that truly define its personality. There’s honeysuckle honey, a hint of rustic cider, a gentle acidity, and earthy tones of damp soil, mushrooms, and toasted bread crusts (think morel croûte – delicious!). It eventually rounds out with touches of butterscotch and praline kissed with liquorice. The contrast with the Comte Joseph is striking, underscoring the importance of lineup building in such tastings. Mouth: an intriguing mix of almost tannic tension and fine bitterness, balanced by a rich, almost sherry-like (old PX) sweetness leaning into fruitcake territory. Finish: slightly molassy, but more so a robust maple syrup note beside pronounced tannins lingering in the aftertaste – think Underberg and similar bitters. comments: excellent, yet likely the opposite of a cosy, ‘familial’ Cognac to sip after turkey and deserts, though you could certainly try it with turkey.
SGP: 561 – 87 points. |
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Vallein Tercinier 60/78 (48.2%, Decadent Drams, Fine Champagne, 120 bottles, 2024)
Apparently a dream dram brought to life by M. Sponge/Land/Dram/Angus, this is a blend of Grande Champagne (L.78, 60%) and Petite Champagne (L.60, 40%) bottled under the charmingly old-fashioned designation of ‘Fine Champagne’, which requires at least 50% Grande Champagne in the mix – duly met here. Don’t confuse ‘fine’ here with the term used in French to describe a wine eau-de-vie, rather than a marc. All cognacs are technically ‘fines’, but not all are Fine Champagnes, though every Fine Champagne is a fine. Aspirin, anyone? Colour: golden amber. Nose: confirms that glorious 40–50-year-old mark as an ideal age, though the average here is slightly higher at 53. There’s still tension, with hints of varnish, turpentine, apricot eau-de-vie, kirsch, and fruit stones, alongside wafts of roasted pineapple and slightly overripe bananas. A subtle cosmetic touch emerges (night cream, perhaps?) before the classic duo of vineyard peaches and honey makes a vibrant entrance. Mouth: firm and surprisingly youthful, opening with hints of gewurztraminer (rose, lychee) before transitioning to that familiar kirsch character (stone fruit, cherries). The spices then take charge with coriander, juniper, cinnamon, clove, black pepper, and a final mentholated twist. Finish: long and spicy, with subtle black pepper joined by roasted cocoa nibs, while vineyard peach bids a fond farewell in the aftertaste. Comments: less of a fruit bomb than some other VTs, likely due to a more pronounced woody structure, but still a stunningly fine Fine fine (don’t do it again, S.).
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
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Mauxion 1958/2024 (51%, OB for Passion for Whisky, Petite Champagne, 78 bottles)
This extraordinary release hails from the Petite Champagne region and has spent an astonishing 65 years maturing fully in wood. Such an extensive ageing could suggest a few bumps and bruises along the way, but let’s see if this venerable gem has managed to retain its balance and elegance. With only 78 bottles available, it’s a true rarity for those fortunate enough to secure one. Colour: full gold. Nose: we’re greeted by an almost pure expression of fruit—apples and quince make an appearance, but it’s the oranges, including their zests, that swiftly take centre stage. Dried mandarin peels (chen-pi) and the tiniest pinch of smoked paprika add a delightful complexity to the mix. The entire profile is remarkably precise, with a clarity that feels timeless. With water: the magical trio of oranges, honey, and olive oil emerges. Mouth (neat): those orange zests return with a touch of liquorice and a gentle prickle of pepper. The balance is absolutely millimetric, with the oak performing its supporting role to perfection, adding depth without overwhelming the fruit. With water: a lovely display of simplicity—refined, pure, and harmonious. Finish: it’s more of the same—those zesty oranges, a whisper of pepper, and a lingering freshness. Comments: an astonishingly drinkable old cognac even when you’re not thirsty (what?), a pity there are/were only 78 bottles available. Right, that’s the kind of comment that could land us in trouble under the watchful eye of new society 4.0.
SGP:561 – 89 points. |
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Vallein Tercinier ‘Lot n°58’ (51%, Petite Champagne, LMDW Foundations, cask #151.A, 60 bottles)
Always a pleasure to see these delightfully simple presentations. You might say that for just 60 bottles, they weren’t going to hire a designer from Madison Avenue (and honestly, I doubt he/she’d have done any better if they had). Colour: Deep gold. Nose: classic VT style, with a clean, fruit-forward profile that’s bold without ever feeling overdone. There’s a touch of herbal freshness, reminiscent of Vicks, and tiny hints of tar, all wrapped in an almost Swiss-like precision—do they make Cognac in Switzerland? With water: a gentle Rhône-like quality emerges, with notes of Roussanne and Marsanne grapes adding a refined white wine character. Mouth (neat): a perfect fusion of ripe fruits and liquorice, though it has a slight tannic grip that likes to assert itself on your tongue—entertaining, if anything, and not at all unwelcome. With water: it softens beautifully, becoming as gentle as a lamb, while the fruit evolves into the luscious sweetness of a perfectly ripe vineyard peach. Alright. Finish: fairly long, with a playful return of tannic grip, joined by a touch of tea and pepper to keep things lively. Comments: I thought last Sunday’s 1974 was slightly superior, though perhaps age is the factor at play here. Nevertheless, this is excellent in its own right, with an absolutely stunning nose.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
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Famille Cabanne ‘Lot 53’ (54%, The Roots, Grande Champagne, 130 bottles, 2024)
This baby is supposed to be over 70 years old, just imagine that—almost as old as dear Iggy Pop! (77). Colour: gold. Nose: dominated by beautifully ripe apples, in all their forms and varieties. In the background, we find other orchard fruits—pears, cormes (never found the proper word in English), and quince—alongside faintly chalky touches. Everything feels wonderfully mature without the slightest excess. With water: stunning! It lifts off towards the realm of vintage yellow Chartreuse and old Benedictine liqueurs. Mouth (neat): orange liqueur, sultanas, sweet honey, followed by a touch of saffron, pepper, and cinchona bark. It remains wonderfully compact and composed. With water: perhaps today’s winner? (S., don’t be daft, it’s not a competition.) Peppermint, orange liqueur, a hint of fig liqueur, and most notably, absolutely no obtrusive oak—even at this staggering age. We told you, it’s like Iggy Pop (though Nick might have preferred a nod to Nick Cave, but at only 67, Nick Cave doesn’t quite qualify yet). Finish: long, citrusy, and honeyed, simply perfect. A lovely dash of black pepper punctuates the finale. Comments: flawless, and almost refreshing in its elegance. Luckily, as Christmas approaches, they usually sell bespoke padlocks to secure bottles like these—make sure you get one for under the tree. Right, have we not all got some as Xmas presents (they’re in the lower drawer in the kitchen, in the back, untouched since 1997).
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
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Sainte-Lheurine ‘Lot 45’ (55.3%, Mauxion for Journal des Kirsch, #9, Petite Champagne, 144 bottles, 2024)
In theory, putting Gascon musketeers on a Cognac label will get you sentenced to wrestling a one-ton raging bull after having downed five (5) kilos of foie gras and three (3) bottles of Ténarèze. Thankfully, our friends at Kirsch are safe from such theatrics, we’re not the ones who’ll denounce them. Incidentally, this bottle won’t be released until mid-December, I’m told. May the mention of 1945 inspire peace amongst men! Colour: dark gold. Nose: a proper farmhouse affair, with heaps of old apples and pears, some bottles of mead and cider, the faintest whiff of tractor engine oil, a drop of paraffin oil, and even, dare I say, a hint of sea breeze. Quite amusing, really, as Sainte-Lheurine is far from any ocean, even the Gironde estuary. Charming stuff. With water: not much evolution, everything was present from the start. Mouth (neat): a massive burst of fruitiness. No need to list every fruit, but peaches, plums, and melons are certainly here, alongside honey. A gentle nudge of coffee grounds keeps everything, well, grounded. With water: a stunning praline of dried fruits, orange blossom, and, dare I say, panettone—it’s panettone season, after all! Glazed oranges abound, with pink peppercorn adding a playful kick. As Fela Kuti said, water, him no get enemy! Finish: long, with beeswax layering itself over the candied fruits, followed by a resinous tail (propolis). Comments: magnificent interplay with water on the palate. A sublime and tightly woven Cognac, holding steady even after 80 years. For the record, Sainte-Lheurine is the village where this gem was crafted, though no specific producer is named.
SGP: 661 - 92 points. |
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Prunier 'Lot 40' (54.2%, Swell de Spirits, Private Garden, for Hong Kong, Grande Champagne, 2023)
Always such handsome bottles at Swell, elegant enough to leave lying about in the living room without risking a divorce—or even to display atop the telly (back when they weren’t flat screens, mind you). Colour: mahogany. Nose: it feels a touch as if it had been aged in sherry casks, which would be legally impossible (I believe). Chocolate, prunes, currants, beef stock, tobacco, and a medley of small herbs (parsley, leek, spring onion), along with a hint of walnut wine. Amusingly, there’s also a rancio and honeyed side that’s almost... brandy de Jerez. Go figure. With water: menthol and a touch of tiger balm, behaving like a very old spirit that hasn’t encountered a single drop of water in its lifetime. Dried raisins. Mouth (neat): ah, here comes that old cognac feel—honeyed, lemony, spicy, and peppery, with a whisper of hoisin sauce. Feels almost like an ancient bottle, but clearly not at this strength. Some beef stock returns. With water: now we’re in the eddies of time, with notes of salt, leek soup, and dried meat. Finish: long, sweet-savoury, with a feeling of old age that’s anything but trivial. A tiny touch of strawberry jam. Comments: 1940! How does one score such a cognac without being either vulgar or presumptuous (as if they aren’t the same thing, eh)? Take this with a pinch—or a cannonball—of salt.
SGP:462 - 88 points. |
I believe we'll have a few more, even older vintages before long. |
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What's a high score here |
| I’d like to remind everyone that scores of 85–87 are considered very high in our system, that 88–92 is fabulous, and anything beyond that… is very rare. Let me also reiterate that WF is not a buying guide but a tasting journal. We’re not masochists, and both the business and our friends tend to send us good things rather than the latest concoction that might make you go blind. We’re very careful to avoid the kind of score inflation you sometimes see here and there, that said, we remain enthusiastic – otherwise, we’d stop all this nonsense immediately. There you have it, see you next time. |
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November 2024 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Benromach 22 yo 2002/2024 (56.6%, LMDW, Artist #14, first fill sherry hogshead, cask #22602102, 341 bottles) - WF 92
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Speyside 28 yo 1988 (58.4%, Lotus Lord, Taiwan, pre-used sherry casks, 5,000 bottles, +/-2017) - WF 91
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
None
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
HD Jamaica 2013/2024 (60.3%, The Whisky Jury for Care for Craft Spirits and Whisky-Age, refill barrel, cask #434985, 270 bottles) - WF 91
Serge's thumbs up this month:
Domaine des Hautes-Glaces 2016/2024 ‘Epistémé’ (52.3%, OB, France, single track #B16D24+orange triangle, 216 bottles) - WF 90
Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
Coloma 8 yo (40%, OB, Colombia, +/-2023) - WF 50 |
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November 29, 2024 |
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A few Dufftown
With an aperitif, simply because one must have one… |
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Singleton of Dufftown 12 yo (40%, OB, +/-2016)
Those from about a dozen years ago were rather so-so (WF 75). Honestly, I’ve never quite grasped the whole Singleton story at Diageo, with Dufftown, Ord, Glendullan, and previously Auchroisk... This kind of umbrella brand housing different distilleries depending on the market is a bit baffling, but perhaps I’m not the quickest on the uptake. Let’s press on, shall we? Worth noting, this one still sports the older packaging. Colour: gold. Nose: a pleasant mix of walnuts, hazelnuts, hay, and malt, rounded off with caramel and a dollop of vanilla fudge. Quite nice, really. Mouth: the palate is less convincing, with a slightly oily texture but a rather shallow flavour profile. Some nougat and popcorn make an appearance, along with a hint of herbal tea. Finish: short and fairly malty, offering notes of bruised apples and a light touch of cappuccino. Comments: the 40% doesn’t do it any favours, but it’s honestly decent and probably better than the earlier batches. I’ll have to track down a newer release for comparison one day—or perhaps not.
SGP:441 - 78 points. |
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Dufftown-Glenlivet 10 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, bourbon & sherry, 2020)
Another rather vintage bottling. Colour: amber. Nose: the sherry influence (PX) seems to take the lead over the bourbon, with rich notes of raisins and sweet wine, accompanied by subtle hints of leather and roasted chestnuts. There’s also a slightly tangy edge (courtesy of the sherry again) and a touch of gently fermented dried figs. Mouth: classic PX-matured malt, showcasing raisins, sweetened coffee, mead, and a faint whisper of salinity that adds a nice dimension. Finish: medium in length, with salted butter caramel, liquorice, and a slight metallic tang. Comments: this one’s lovely, and it softens and rounds out rather beautifully as it breathes in the glass. In short, it delivers!
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
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Dufftown-Glenlivet 10 yo 2007/2017 (56.8%, Cadenhead, Small Batch, 2 hogsheads)
The old black-labelled Cadenhead bottlings were known as ‘black dumpies,’ but I’m not sure if this series has earned a nickname yet— ‘black flats’? ‘Black squares’? Colour: straw. Nose: splendid, as this allows a more unadulterated, less doctored view of Dufftown’s malt. Here we find ripe apples, wort, rustic bread, and grist—a natural, straightforward profile, though perhaps not one to set pulses racing. With water: fresh bread and damp limestone—clean and honest. Mouth (neat): much more appealing, with notes of green apple and lemon, underscored by chalk and gunflint. On the one side it’s incredibly herbal and taut, yet there’s a delightful syrupy sweetness and a touch of white pepper in the back. With water: yellow melon emerges, along with a dash of agave syrup—charming stuff. Finish: long, precise, and beautifully balanced between mineral and fruity notes. Comments: I love this bottle not only because the whisky itself is genuinely excellent but also because it serves as a reminder of the superiority of a ‘natural’ maturation, free from excessive tampering. Well done, Cadenhead (yes, I know I’m a bit late to the party).
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Dufftown 14 yo 2008/2022 (50.4%, The Whisky Cask Company, 1st fill PX hogshead finish, 239 bottles)
A charming wee bottle from Switzerland. Colour: deep gold. Nose: a curious medley of walnuts, tangy fruits, old wines, and—unsurprisingly—Swiss cheese, with hints of garlic and kirsch. This Dufftown seems tailor-made to accompany a Swiss fondue (or as we’d say in France, a fondue savoyarde). There’s a lovely earthy undertone too. With water: fresher now, with notes of gentian, anise, dill, fennel, and slate—unusual but enticing. Mouth (neat): quirky yet nice, with a spicy, piquant character and that persistent cheesy edge. Think cumin, black pepper, and slightly overripe plums verging on fermentation. With water: leather and leafy notes emerge—tomato leaves, fig leaves—adding a rustic touch. Finish: long and, frankly, a bit odd. Comments: an amusing little creature. This one feels almost designed for pairing with food—fondue, garlic snails, spaghetti with chorizo, or even some Thai or Vietnamese dishes. All in good fun, but do give your glass a thorough rinse afterward.
SGP:462 - 79 points. |
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Dufftown-Glenlivet 11 yo 2007/2019 (54.5%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 282 bottles)
We’ve stashed away so many of these in the library... Colour: straw. Nose: utterly charming, completely natural, and unsurprisingly very similar to the Small Batch we just tasted. Fresh bread, melon, peach, wort, and chalk—simple yet so appealing. With water: fresh focaccia, damp limestone, and even a touch of white Burgundy Chardonnay—elegant and inviting. Mouth (neat): pure, unadulterated malt perfection. This is what we love. With water: green apple, barley syrup, a hint of agave and cane sugar, melon, and white peach—it’s all there, perfectly balanced. Finish: long, subtly sweet, with a refreshing touch of menthol. Comments: quick and to the point—this is excellent. Pure, irresistible Scottish malt whisky in its natural state.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
While we're at it, an older one… |
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Dufftown-Glenlivet 26 yo 1988/2015 (51%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 234 bottles) 
Well, this could take us to great heights… or perhaps not. Let’s see. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a touch shy at first, taking its time to open up, as though it needs a good breath of air (don’t we all?). Initially, there’s a bit of acetone, fresh putty, and candle wax before the fruit begins to tiptoe in—melon skin and apples to start. Then, intriguingly, there’s moss and a whisper of mushrooms… the age showing through, perhaps? With water: oddly tired now, slightly past its best. Mouth (neat): a touch more engaging here, with citrus zest and some pleasantly lemony herbs. That said, exaggerated bitterness creeps in after just a few seconds. With water: nope, not works. Finish: no joy there either. Comments: I suspect this sample hasn’t fared well over time. The whisky itself appeared clear, the fill level was fine, but during my customary pre-check for older samples (especially those with questionable caps, which you come to recognize with experience), I already had my doubts. I should have followed my instincts and discarded it outright, as I usually do—lesson learned again. As an exception, we are publishing this note anyway, strictly for educational purposes.
SGP: no – (useless) points. |
We were having other Dufftowns but I believe we shall try them later, we need a rest. |
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Bad caps, bad samples |
| Reminder: Never use, and especially never keep samples with caps fitted with pads glued to the inside. In general, defects are very easily detectable on the nose alone and are more or less always the same, but that isn’t strictly always the case. Also, avoid trying to seal caps with sticky tape or duct tape beyond a few weeks (travel period, transit etc.), prefer Parafilm. In any case, pay close attention to spirits that seem unusually bitter or exhibit chemical or adhesive-like notes—unless you know that this is inherently part of the distillery’s style, as is the case with certain Jamaican rums, for example. Because to make things even easier, there is still glue/varnish, and then there is glue/varnish. |
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November 28, 2024 |
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WF's little duos, two wee Aultmore
Let’s see what we have… |
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Aultmore 10 yo 2011/2022 (52%, Goldfinch, Bodega Series, first fill oloroso, 308 bottles)
A bottling/company where roughly everything but the distillery is a mystery, which just goes to show there’s always something new to discover in whisky. Colour: light gold. First fill oloroso, really? Nose: one suspects some trickery with the oloroso claim, but no complaints here – this wonderfully clean profile of barley and apples is thoroughly appealing. A few hints of modelling clay and putty add interest. All is well. With water: green walnuts do make an appearance eventually, but the whole remains delightfully natural and charming. Mouth (neat): excellent, youthful, and both sharp and oily, with fruity syrups and pepper, balanced by crisp apple peel to keep things in check. With water: outstanding – even better! Green apples, barley, indeed green walnuts, alongside lemony touches, a whisper of agave, and even a flirtation with mezcal. ¡Bingo! (Yes, we’re speaking Mexican now.) Finish: no issues here. A trace of mead and a hint of vanilla round things off beautifully. Comments: the cask specifics don’t matter when the result is this good.
SGP: 551 - 86 points. |
Who mentioned mezcal, eh? |
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Aultmore 17yo 2006/2024 (54.7%, Scyfion, Tequila Cask Finish, 150 bottles)
An exuberant Ukrainian bottling from our good friends at Scyfion, whose ongoing efforts are nothing short of inspiring. And this is certainly not a dram for the faint-hearted. Worth noting that the tequila cask’s involvement spanned a full 48 months, qualifying as ‘maturation’ rather than mere ‘finishing’. Slava Ukraini! Colour: gold. Nose: remarkably, the malt has held its ground admirably despite those four years, coming across with a character reminiscent of its predecessor, but with an added earthy nuance and perhaps the faintest suggestion of olive. With water: similar impressions, now enriched by gentle bakery notes—yeast, bread dough, beer—and, buried deep in the background, a fleeting wisp of lavender infused in olive oil. Mouth (neat): Once again, the tequila influence is admirably restrained, its contribution perhaps lurking in those earthy hints of grapefruit and pink pepper. Bright, fresh, and wonderfully vivacious. With water: here, the tequila finally steps forward a little more, yet without disrupting the malt’s coherence. No clash, no disjointedness—it remains unmistakably a whisky. Finish: long, fruity, and thoroughly delightful, with a mineral touch, perhaps slate or basalt. Could that be the tequila again? Comments: Tequila production in Ukraine—who knew? Right… In any case, this Aultmore is simply excellent, and one can only dream of a future where Scyfion’s Crimean wine finishes make a triumphant return. As for Frida Kahlo's head on a Mayan pyramid...
SGP: 551 – 87 points. |
PS: I tasted it again after 30 minutes; the tequila came through much more noticeably, but not enough to change my modest score. Slava Ukraini! |
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November 27, 2024 |
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A new little whisky world tour |
| It’s become a bit of a cliché to say that there are more and more whiskies from the 'rest of the world', coming from genuine whisky distilleries but also, more commonly, from distillers who now make whisky in addition to their usual production (gin, eaux-de-vie, cognac, slivovitz, vodka, rum, shochu—you name it). |
Not to mention the distilleries that don’t actually distil anything themselves. You need to visit their websites and check if you see any stills (and not just barrels), apart from that little 75-litre Portuguese one set up in the entrance, unconnected to anything and gleaming like a new penny. Yes, that does exist. |
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Domaine des Hautes-Glaces 2016/2024 ‘Epistémé’ (52.3%, OB, France, single track #B16D24+orange triangle, 216 bottles)
The last tasting of #B16D24+red square left quite an impression (WF 90). This organic whisky is matured in vin jaune casks—no mere finishing here— vin jaune being kind of akin to fino sherry, though that comparison is admittedly loose and might warrant an apology to our Jura friends. Colour: pale gold. Nose: fresh bread, crushed mustard seeds, green walnuts, damp earth, bergamots, newly sprouted cress seeds, sourdough, and hints of dried apricots. It’s like a mountain dweller’s fruit basket. With water: soft tarry notes and mild curry peep through. Mouth (neat): gentler than anticipated, but the rush of peppery cress, mustard, and raisin bread is delightful. With water: cardamom, cooked radish, and beetroot join the fray. Finish: long, with a stronger peppery kick. I must detail the types of pepper more precisely, as there’s such diversity! Comments: I adored the earlier 44% version, and while this isn’t necessarily ‘better’, it stands equal in quality. In any case, it’s exceptional (and we’re in the mountains).
SGP:552 – 90 points. |
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B&L (46%, Bottles & Legends, Blended Malt Belgian Whisky, Batch 1, new oak & sherry, 125 bottles)
Featuring a charming little cherry-red 356 on the label, this marks the first fully Belgian blended malt—congratulations! Colour: white wine. Nose: juniper and fennel swirl about, joined by a touch of gentian and a hint of Williams pear. A whiff of pine sap brings a fresh and somewhat spirited character, making for an unusual yet captivating profile. Mouth: bright with lemon and anise, underpinned by juniper, then a delicate touch of crème de cassis from Dijon and some raspberries. Thankfully, it avoids that ubiquitous ‘cheap red’ profile found in many others these days. A true success, I’d say. Finish: rather long, staying true to the notes of gentian, blackcurrant, and juniper, with a dash of lemon and returning coriander seeds adding a fresh lift. Comments: as some might have anticipated, I believe this whisky, slightly chilled, would pair superbly with Belgian shrimp croquettes. I challenge anyone to prove otherwise.
SGP:561 – 85 points. |
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Cormeil ‘Small Batch #1’ (42.7%, Distillerie H. Leblanc, France, finished in calvados cask, 2024)
Produced by Normandy’s noted calvados makers, Busnel. The writer Henri Monnier once remarked, “How foresighted nature is! It makes apples grow in Normandy, knowing that the natives of this region drink nothing but cider.” He might well have included calvados in that observation. Colour: light gold. Nose: quite pleasant, reminiscent of many other contemporary French whiskies—nicely crafted, rounded, with a gentle wood influence. There’s vanilla and apples, and for once, the apples are authentically present, with a touch of cinnamon as well. Mouth: enjoyable, showcasing apple juice, barley syrup, a hint of rhubarb, and slightly green tannins smoothed out by a drizzle of honey. It’s evidently very young. Finish: medium in length, fresh and soft, evoking memories of that apple ice wine made in Canada. With climate change, one wonders if Normandy could ever produce such a thing. Comments: youthful and approachable with no real flaws.
SGP:431 – 80 points. |
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High Coast 'Mountains 02 - Borgberget' (51%, OB, Sweden, Moscatel casks, 2024)
This series spotlights Sweden’s iconic mountains, here showcasing ‘Borgberget’. An unpeated expression, it stands out with its intriguing Moscatel cask finish—a nod to the Swedes' far-reaching historical journeys. Fun fact: the town of Colmar here in Alsace once fell under Swedish control, captured by Gustaf Horn and his forces in 1632. Colour: gold. Nose: the Moscatel influence remains restrained, presenting a whisky that leans dry with a touch of oak. There are hints of scones, pancakes, maple syrup, and slightly under-ripe bananas. With water: it blossoms with added depth, revealing a nice burst of juicy, ripe apples while the Moscatel remains agreeably understated—thankfully so. Mouth (neat): a livelier palate, richer and more liqueur-like with notes of muscat and guava, complemented by celery and pink pepper. With water: even better, unfolding sultanas and those charming ripe apples. Finish: of medium length, featuring raisins and dried apricots. Comments: initial caution gave way to relief, as water proved a great enhancer. For a Moscatel-finished dram, it’s rather charming.
SGP:641 - 83 points. |
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Bimber ‘Darwin the Naturalist’ (58.3%, OB, England, Shoulders of Giants, bourbon, cask #376, 259 bottles, 2024)
A delightful nod to Darwin, reminding us of humanity’s shared ancestry with primates—a fact underscored by the international news these days. Perhaps there’s a Bimber for David Hume too (though, being Scottish, he might have objected). Colour: gold. Nose: it’s almost embarrassing how effortlessly these ex-bourbon Bimbers deliver, bursting with ripe papaya, mango, peach liqueur, and the flakiest fresh croissants. You’ll want to dive right in. With water: subtle vegetal oils emerge, with the faintest hint of shoe polish. Mouth (neat): banana and kiwi liqueurs make an entrance, followed by assertive notes of Timut and pink peppercorns—marvellously vivid. I’m quite taken with it. With water: it’s just more of the same, in all the right ways. Finish: long, never straying into ‘fruit bomb’ excess. Echoes of peach skin, apple, and melon play through. Comments: as Darwin wittily observed, ‘An American monkey, after getting drunk on brandy, would never touch it again, and thus is much wiser than most men.’
SGP:751 - 89 points. |
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Daiking ‘The Reserva Bourbon Cask’ (53%, OB, China, 1st fill bourbon cask, +/-2024)
We previously tried the lower-strength releases and found them to be quite successful, crafted in a polished, international style, and, importantly, free from flaws. Notably, this expression is non-chill-filtered and free from caramel colouring. Colour: gold. Nose: initially, it shows a slightly fermentative character with soft beer notes, cake batter, boiled vegetables like aubergine and courgette, and hints of both earthiness and butter caramel. With water: buttery shortbread and delicate biscuits emerge. Mouth (neat): pleasantly full of citrus liqueurs, a touch of ginger, green wood spices, and dried fruits—think lychees and rambutans. It comes together very nicely. With water: apricots, apples, barley syrup, and papayas join the mix. Finish: not particularly long but well-balanced, with a pleasing fruitiness and a faint touch of eucalyptus. Comments: when tasting a whisky like this, it’s crucial to set aside cultural biases—steer clear of thinking about Temu, Wish, or AliExpress. Remember, China also produces some of the finest teas in the world. All in all, I find this Daiking very well executed.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
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Cotswolds 2015/2024 (51%, OB, England, 1st fill bourbon, cask #451, 265 bottles)
Let’s be upfront—I tasted this English gem at the Whisky Show in London, and it floored me. But who knows? In that lively atmosphere, surrounded by good company and warm conversation, perhaps I got swept up in the moment. Time for a sober reassessment. Colour: gold. Nose: impeccably precise, with aromas of dough, croissant pastry, a touch of beach sand and chalk, leading to restrained notes of pears and bananas, all crowned by a flourish of butterscotch. With water: pears, bananas, papayas, crème anglaise, and wildflower honey. Nothing more needed. Mouth (neat): magnificent, this time bursting with a vibrant fruitiness anchored by stern notes of coffee and caramel. A frenzy of vineyard peaches dances in the background. With water: simply perfect, accented by hints of camphor and mint. Finish: not vast but delightfully fruity, enough to make the R&D team at Haribo green with envy. Comments: well, I wasn’t wrong after all (self-congratulation is dreadful, isn’t it, S.?).
SGP:751 - 90 points. |
To conclude, we had been wanting to try this intriguing little number for a few weeks. We’re so accustomed to the sublime single cask versions at around 60% ABV… |
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Hellyers Road ‘Aurora Australis’ (40%, OB, Tasmania/Australia, +/-2024)
A story tied to a Roman goddess—one could only marvel at the idea of the Romans setting foot in Tasmania (a bit of historical humour there). Colour: white wine. Nose: unexpectedly ultra-fermentative with waxy tallow, roasted artichoke, pickled mushrooms, rainwater, bison grass, ale, and a whiff of mentholated tobacco. An intriguing bouquet that works surprisingly well, though one must question the decision to bottle it at 40%; by the time it reaches Europe, it’s likely shed a degree or two (just a cheeky thought). Mouth: quirky and delightfully so. Strongly fermentative, smoked with an indeterminate natural element, peppery, woody, and bitter, but all wrapped with a pleasant touch of bitter orange and deeply dark chocolate. The emphasis on its idiosyncrasies in this base expression is commendable, especially with that meaty sweetness emerging as it opens—honey and chilli-glazed beef jerky, perhaps. Finish: fairly long, quite bitter, and smoky, showcasing smoked paprika and cocoa powder. Comments: a ‘free whisky’ much like ‘free jazz’—bravo for resisting the lure of the typical PX or mizunara finish. A true, ethical whisky, unapologetically non-mainstream.
SGP:572 - 85 points. |
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November 26, 2024 |
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Two or three indie Royal Brackla
We end up tasting Brackla quite often, even if the official bottlings aren't regularly showcased. The only problem is that we keep struggling a bit to define the character of the distillate.
Cassata siciliana (Betty Bossi)
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Royal Brackla 10 yo (46%, James Eadie, Small Batch, first fill bourbon and refill butt, cask #1598 + 303564, 1,155 bottles, 2024)
Colour: gold. Nose: a lovely balance with the sherry adding depth to what would otherwise be a fairly neutral profile, bringing out beer notes and perfectly ripe apples. Mouth: raisins take the lead. The cask work here is rather charming, even showcasing mandarins and hints of ginger biscuits, with a touch of dried figs. Finish: of medium length, driven by commanding raisin notes. Comments: a quality offering, though in my view, it's the bottler who deserves the applause.
SGP: 541 – 84 points. |
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Royal Brackla 15 yo 2008/2024 (58.3%, The Open Door, Taiwan, barrel, cask #6837, 215 bottles)
The Open Door is a bar in Taiwan, described as ‘a haven quietly located in the hustle and bustle of the city’—I must add it to the list. Colour: white wine. Nose: the purity and charm reminiscent of a fine southern Burgundy white, perhaps a Pouilly-Fuissé. Notes of apples and bananas, honeysuckle, sweet woodruff, limestone, and freshly baked brioche. A delicate and refined bouquet. With water: cassata emerges, complete with candied angelica, cherry, and pear pieces—if this carries through to the palate, we’re in for a treat. Mouth (neat): very gentle, almost syrupy, with a medley of citrus, apple, and pear liqueurs. It gradually gains tension in a delightful way, leading to pure limestone and lemon. With water: the cassata with candied fruits returns, along with a touch of honey ice cream. Finish: medium length, honeyed, with soft herbal teas. Comments: one might almost mistake this for a young Rosebank—what a surprise! I reckon it could pair wonderfully with ice cream, perhaps cassata?
SGP: 651 – 87 points. |
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Cawdor Spring 6 yo 2015/2022 (61.2%, Elixir Distillers, The Whisky Trail, refill cask, cask #236)
It seems Cawdor Spring is a trade name for Royal Brackla. At this rate, we’ll soon need trade names for the trade names—those Scots do love their brand intricacies, as if each small label were as grand as Apple or Tesla (though Tesla’s another story…). Not to be confused with Samaroli’s Glen Cawdor. Colour: the palest white wine. Nose: pleasingly simple, with ripe and unripe apples, a touch of chalk and limestone, and a hint of butterscotch. With water: delicate notes of fennel and dill appear, adding a fresh lift. Mouth (neat): bright and enjoyable, a mix between rum, tequila, and malt whisky (well, at last). Lemons, apples, agave, popcorn, and nougat. I appreciate the very ‘stripped-down’ character of this young malt. With water: the barley spirit steps forward, tempered by a hint of cane syrup. Finish: medium length, fresh, sweet, and fruity, with a touch of glue and varnish, a reminder of its youth. Comments: it’s always intriguing to taste a fine distillate in its early years. It’s not yet mature, but it’s quite agreeable as a young spirit. Think of white rum or mezcal—even if barley doesn’t match the aromatic depth of cane or agave, its main asset being, in theory, time. All in all, rather fun.
SGP: 640 – 83 points. |
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November 25, 2024 |
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A Few Tomintouls
Tomintoul used to be known as "the gentle dram," but it must be said that lately, there have been some rather potent ones. And a few that are quite heavily influenced by wine – but that’s a trend affecting many distilleries these days. Indeed, we’re laying it on a bit thick… |
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Tomintoul 10 yo (40%, OB, +/-2023)
We last sampled this amiable 10-year-old back in 2018, and it performed rather decently (WF 78). Colour: straw. Nose: a gentle fruity profile, leaning heavily on apples and pears at first, then segueing into a more floral character with a touch of sweet barley. It feels as though it’s become a tad simpler, yet somehow more enjoyable, balanced, and, well… kind. That lovely ex-bourbon softness shines through. It does the job, and frankly, the world could use a bit more kindness these days. Mouth: light on the palate, offering notes of cornflakes alongside apple, a whisper of liquorice, and a faint hint of lurking lavender. Finish: short, with a mild honeyed touch and a faintly bitter edge towards the end—but isn’t that the fate of many young, entry-level Speysiders? Comments: perhaps a slight improvement since the last outing. There’s even a faint resemblance to Glenmorangie 10 (recently replaced by a 12).
SGP:441 - 79 points. |
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Tomintoul 12 yo 2011/2023 (40%, OB, oloroso sherry cask finish, 14,400 bottles)
The modest ABV suggests restrained ambitions here. Colour: gold. Nose: a touch of an old toolbox at first, followed by the expected walnuts and a hint of Barbour grease. Then, much like in the 10-year-old, those familiar apples and pears make a reappearance. It’s a lovely nose, well-constructed and inviting. Mouth: a pleasant opening with citrus joining the aromas already noted, but the low strength causes it to lose momentum, introducing more bitter and herbal notes. Think English breakfast tea—sans the cloud of milk—and a sprinkling of cocoa powder. One can’t help but feel this would sing better at 43%, though that refrain does grow a bit tiresome, does it not. Finish: fairly short, with tea and citrus peels, perhaps Earl Grey. Thankfully, it’s less bitter than feared, with a delightful hint of marmalade in the aftertaste lifting it nicely. Comments: thoroughly enjoyable.
SGP:341 - 80 points. |
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Tomintoul ‘Pinot Noir Cask Finish’ (40%, OB, +/-2023)
Holy Suzy, a Pinot Noir finish and NAS—brace yourselves! Colour: white wine. Nose: the palest Pinot Noir whisky I’ve ever encountered. Perhaps they used Pinot Noir grapes with minimal maceration, pressed quickly with almost no skin contact, producing something more akin to a white wine, much like a Champagne blanc de noirs. Thankfully, there’s no trace of stems, blackcurrants, cherries, or raspberries here. Instead, we’re greeted with vanilla, ripe plums, raisin pastries, and juicy mirabelles. Quite pleasant, really. Mouth: uh-oh, here comes the Pinot Noir influence. Grape seeds, skins, stems, green tea, and ginger make themselves known. Finish: much the same—green pepper and a touch of tannic bitterness. Comments: the palate feels worlds apart from the rather charming nose.
SGP:351 - 75 points. |
Let's move on to independents and be aware that they have an advantage due to their much higher bottling strength – in general. |
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Tomintoul 13 yo 2010/2024 (56.1%, Dràm Mor, first fill PX hogshead finish, cask #900142, 218 bottles)
Colour: Gold. Nose: a finely controlled finishing, as is often (if not always) the case with Dràm Mor. Pecan pie with a touch of earthiness and tobacco, alongside a hint of plums that might not have fully ripened. Rather charming, really. With water: and here come the sultanas, loud and clear. Mouth (neat): much gentler on the palate, almost syrupy, reminiscent of a high-putts Tokaji. Nothing to do with golf, of course. Apricot and orange jam sprinkled with a delicate pinch of ras-el-hanout spice. With water: excellent, with a lovely addition of pepper to this distinctly Moroccan-inspired mix. Finish: long and smooth, mercifully free from the bitterness that so often lingers in PX-boosted malts. They must have some secret trick. Comments: a rather splendid success—here’s a young Tomintoul that truly speaks.
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
The same elements, the same manoeuvre, the same battle… |
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Tomintoul 13 yo 2010/2024 (56.4%, Alistair Walker Infrequent Flyers, for Taiwan, PX hogshead, cask #804809, 340 bottles)
Colour: dark amber. Nose: ah, here we go—this one’s decidedly chocolatey, leaning towards Mars bars, with an abundance of raisins and a lovely touch of pipe tobacco. There’s a whisper of menthol and a faint streak of turpentine in the background, which keeps things interesting. It then turns charmingly Scottish, with creamy butterscotch and a proper slice of millionaire’s shortbread. A classic profile, free of missteps. With water: little change, and that’s hardly an issue here—this is perfectly composed for a young Speysider with a PX finish. There’s even a sweet little dunnage-like note that’s quite endearing. Mouth (neat): a closer sibling to the other 2010, it’s spicy and jammy, with an ample dollop of demerara sugar and maple syrup drizzled over plump Corinthian raisins. Again, not a false note in sight. With water: spot-on for the style, bringing out chocolate and freshly ground coffee. Finish: long and a touch drier than the other 2010, but every bit its equal. Comments: splitting hairs would be required to claim one was better than the other—both are superb examples.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
One last one, that will make it 3 OB and 3 IB. Neat and tidy. |
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Tomintoul 17 yo 2006/2023 (50%, Hunter Laing, Old Malt Cask 25th Anniversary, refill butt, 222 bottles)
To celebrate 25 years of this iconic series, the current owners have brought out a range of malts dressed in the original packaging—what we might call a ‘replica’ bottle. I can’t help but think that whisky enthusiasts or our successors here at WF (will we have any?) in 30 or 40 years might find these somewhat confusing to catalogue. But enough musings; let’s taste this Tomintoul, with more Speysiders from this series (Glen Grant, Benrinnes, etc.) to follow in the coming weeks. Colour: gold. Nose: the glory of refill casks, brought into sharp focus by contrast with the PX finishes we’ve just sampled. Barley sacks, fresh croissants, farmhouse cider, a small glass of Meursault, a few drops of manzanilla, walnut wine, and fresh hay… Simply perfect. Quite the surprise, I must say. With water: waxy notes and a touch of robustness. Still gentle yet structured. Mouth (neat): walnut and orange wine, mild ale, artisanal cider, ripe apples, fir honey, a hint of pine sap, and a drop of lemon juice… Again, just perfect. With water: still perfect. Finish: long and almost refreshing, with apple and citrus juice, and a touch of dry, elegant sherry in the aftertaste. Comments: it feels as though this cask was selected with great care—not that this wouldn’t usually be the case, but it’s especially evident here. Fantastic and even a bit surprising. T.o.m.i.n.t.o.u.l.!
SGP:551 – 90 points. |
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November 24, 2024 |
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The time for cognac is back at WF
Let’s see what we have on the tasting table today… (only great ones I'm sure)...
Balade des Pères Noël |
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Bache Gabrielsen ‘Lot. 89’ (45.7%, OB, Grande Champagne, LMDW, single cask, cask #B-12, 70 bottles, 2024)
We’ve tried a few offerings from Bache Gabrielsen, though we wouldn’t say we’re well-acquainted with the house. The standout memory remains the remarkable ‘Le Sein de Dieu’ cuvée from 2015, which featured only pre-phylloxera cognacs, including one dating back to 1790! (WF 91). This ‘Lot. 89’ was distilled a mere two centuries later, which feels rather contemporary by comparison. Colour: full gold. Nose: wonderfully lively and bright, brimming with kiwis, rhubarb, and redcurrants at first, before ripe vineyard peaches and a few sultanas join the fray. A gorgeous freshness persists, gradually giving way to notes of vanilla, crème brûlée, and a subtle touch of jasmine. Mouth: a delightful bounty of fruit pastilles, underscored by a hint of white pepper. Lovely soft liquorice, mirabelle jam, apricot preserve, and even exotic fruit compotes—perhaps banana and pear? It’s jammy yet airy, with superb balance and a natural strength that feels spot on. Finish: medium in length, with the return of liquorice and exotic fruits, leading into oranges and a faintly nostalgic nod to an old bottle of Grand Marnier. Comments: superbly bright, fresh, and absolutely spot-on. What a splendid start!
SGP:651 – 90 points. |
We always try to start our sessions gently. Well, this time, that’s gone out the window. |
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Ferme 1719 ‘Lot 88’ (50%, Authentic Spirits, Grande Champagne, 2024)
Made from Ugni Blanc, and another single cask. For clarity, Ferme 1719 isn’t a house name but rather a nod to a farm established in 1719. Now there is a Cognac brand called ‘1719’, though whether there's a link here is unclear. Colour: amber. Nose: it’s that lively fruitiness again, but this time leaning more towards ripe apples and pears, with a touch more oomph and a definite rustic edge. Quite farmy, as it were. Frankly, I adore this style too. Pan-fried apricots and mirabelles join the fray. With water: hints of damp earth and dried flowers emerge. Mouth (neat): starts with a whisper of old Calvados before honey takes over, wrapped in a well-integrated, peppery woodiness. Fir honey increasingly dominates, beautifully coating the palate. With water: splendidly ‘rural’ Cognac, it must be said. Finish: long, with a touch more acidity lifting the tail end of this gorgeous drop. Comments: it almost feels like tasting straight from the cask—do you know that sensation?
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
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Guillaume Duluc ‘Lot 87’ (50.1%, Authentic Spirits, Grande Champagne, 2024)
Crafted entirely from Ugni Blanc, from a 40-hectare estate in Touzac. Colour: deep gold. Nose: reminiscent of the Bache, with that lively, fruit-forward tension that feels irresistibly inviting. Stewed rhubarb and vineyard peaches lead the charge, followed by a delicate wisp of tobacco and nougat. Ferns and hints of wood varnish add a refined complexity to this utterly charming nose. With water: magnificent, bringing out sesame and orange cakes alongside a medley of bold honeys—heather, linden, and chestnut. Mouth (neat): flawless. Honey, oranges, cinchona, bitter orange, dried figs, and a touch of nutmeg create a rich tapestry, with a playful sense that it’s flirting with Highland malt territory—and could easily outshine many in a blind tasting. Delightful. With water: perfectly balanced, seamlessly weaving fruits, honeys, and gentle spices. Zero fault (if I may be so casual). Finish: liquorice and resinous notes take the baton, with orange zest and honey lingering beautifully. Comments: I’m smitten with these notes of ‘true’ honey. The value here is almost laughable—though I suspect it sold out in mere moments.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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Cognac Grande Champagne ‘Lot 87’ (59.4%, Rhum Attitude, 213 bottles)
As whisky aficionados continue to flock towards quality Cognacs (leaving the generic stuff behind), it seems rum specialists are now following suit. An intriguing note here: this cask was used to top up others, meaning it was theoretically exposed to more oxygen. Fascinating—but interestingly, the alcohol level has hardly budged. Colour: dark gold. Nose: wonderfully rounded, with a honeyed richness and a delicate menthol edge. There’s also a hefty dose of maple syrup—fabulous—and roasted apricots drizzled with honey and a pinch of cinnamon. Irresistible, really. It’s true, 35–40 years is often the ideal age for such spirits. With water: subtle meaty undertones, perhaps chicken broth, adding a tertiary layer of depth not found in others. Mouth (neat): intensely fruity, almost reminiscent of an Yquem, before peppery notes creep in and a nervy young Sauvignon Blanc-like brightness arrives to bring structure. Flawless. With water: a touch of tannin now, alongside brown tobacco, black tea, and bitter chocolate—an evolution worth savouring. Finish: the tannins and darker notes persist, but the fruit fights back admirably. Comments: a complex, jubilant old Cognac that knows exactly how to fan out its peacock’s tail, as they would say in the country. I’d say it was bottled at just the right moment.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
The magnificent cognacs are lining up like pearls on a necklace today. Perfect for Christmas ;-). |
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Pasquet ‘Lot 85’ (52.3%, Poh! Spirits, Petite Champagne, 90 bottles, 2024)
Pasquet – naturally, that’s Jean-Luc Pasquet, the esteemed house. Are there other Pasquets crafting such splendid cognacs? Colour: deep gold. Nose: this time we’re veering more towards patisseries and baked delights – think walnut cakes, richly cooked jams, fruit tarts, Linzertorte, and fully ripened damsons. With water: I’m quite taken by this touch of old metals (copper coins, polished silverware) followed by a whisper of smoke. Mouth (neat): it’s utterly sinful, with a fleeting impression of agricole rum – dare I say Neisson? – before moving into Catalan cream piled high with honey-soaked baked plums and a handful of raisins. Hints of mint, a touch of liquorice, and a drizzle of heather honey bring further intrigue. With water: yes, splendid – a dollop of quince jelly now joins the fray. Finish: rather long, staying gentle and on the rounder side. Did we already mention an old Sauternes today? Comments: perfect once again. Beware, this goes down like mother’s milk.
SGP: 651 - 90 points. |
What a disaster, it seems to me that we’re not going to manage to bring our scores down much today... |
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Vallein Tercinier ‘Lot 74’ (48.7%, OB, Grande Champagne, cask #0278, 571 bottles, 2024)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: utterly exquisite, with an almost surreal purity of super-ripe fruits—peach, melon, quince, mirabelle plum, and apricot. One might nearly mistake it for a blend of eaux-de-vie from these fruits, aged together in wood. Beware of those peach stones, though—cyanide lurks within, which distillers must handle with care. But let’s not digress too far... The nose is astoundingly precise, truly beautiful, with a delicate touch of miso that’s simply sublime. Mouth: astonishing vivacity, brimming with herbal teas, honeys, citrus, and raisins. Think chamomile and thyme, oak honeydew, blood oranges, golden sultanas, and tiny muscat grapes. A slight hint of pine bud adds a subtle backbone, perfectly balancing the bright energy of the whole. Finish: the oak steps forward here, as expected. Notes of coffee beans, dark chocolate, black tea, marmalade, and a faint trace of aged white wine right at the very end. Comments: magnificent, as anticipated. The oak is more present in the finish (and no, we’re not talking about that mass-market ‘boisé’ flavouring, are we?). Let’s remember this Cognac has likely spent 50 years in cask—or perhaps 49. It doesn’t seem to have been stored in demijohns either.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
One last one, we'll head down towards the Rolling Stones. In a manner of speaking... |
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Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘L.70 Le Cognac d’Arlette’ (44.6%, OB, Trésors de Famille, Petite Champagne, 366 bottles)
Ah, 1970, wasn’t that the year of Sticky Fingers? This beauty hails from a family estate in Lagarde-sur-le-Né, and one of the joys of these cognacs is the geography lesson they bring along—an intricate lacework of charming little villages and hamlets, brimming with delightful folk. Colour: Full gold, radiant and inviting. Nose: we’re firmly in the realm of master woodworkers and spice merchants. Notes of gingerbread, crème de menthe, Turkish coffee, and spruce wood (Christmas trees, naturally) waft up first, alongside a touch of pitch, then creamy cappuccino and fresh potting soil. After a few minutes, the fruits timidly emerge: quince and those tiny apples you’d find in an ancient orchard around Lagarde-sur-le-Né—well, that’s probably pushing it a bit, but you get the idea. Mouth: here the fruits take the lead, particularly dried ones, though the seasoned woods, tobacco, and menthol are ever-present. Think Christmas cake, figs, raisins, baked apples flattened and dried in the old Loire tradition (pommes tapées), and marvellous dried apricots—the kind that deserve a moment of reverence. The balance between dried fruits and gentle spices is nothing short of a masterclass. Finish: this awesome cognac departs quietly, almost imperceptibly, which might just be a cunning ploy to coax you into pouring another glass. Comments: honestly, there’s nothing to fault here. The overall harmony is sublime, well done Arlette.
SGP: 651 – 91 points. |
It's incredible how the VT 74 and the JLP 70 are neck and neck when you have both in front of you. Another Senna-Prost situation, really. So, make sure you don't have the entire bottles in front of you—it could be dangerous. And just to be clear, Whiskyfun will accept absolutely no responsibility for any suddenly uncontrollable behaviour on your part, including, but not limited to, divorce. |
By the way, apologies for all the perhaps overly enthusiastic adjectives and adverbs today, but we truly were among some of the very finest cognacs. |
Good, next Sunday, we'll be sampling a fine selection of vintage cognacs from before 1970. Not sure the average score will be as high as today, but stay tuned! |
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November 23, 2024 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland |
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Today… we Longrow!
Inspired by my previous session with Springbank, I felt we should continue and vanquish all the outstanding Longrow samples. I love Longrow, a lot! When at its best, I believe it remains one of the most distinctive malts in Scotchland, however, I think it’s also one of the most easily scramble-able makes as well - all you need is some unlikely wine cask and you have the makings of some very expensive vegetable stock! Anyway, let’s see what we have today, we’ll try to do this in order of theoretical potency, rather than by age or vintage, for once. |
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Longrow 1987 (46%, Kirsch Import, cask #120, 360 bottles) 
Not sure when this one was bottled, but I think safe to assume young, probably around 8yo. Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: ink, printer paper, mud, wet leaves, damp bonfires, coal soot, a hint of geraniums. Characterful but youthful distillate, no doubt. Gives a little waxy and sheep wool impression and, with time, gains a more pronounced coastal side. Mouth: much better with a more vividly ‘Longrow’ personality now. Nicely chunky and peppery peat, lots of drying and crisp coastal impressions, citrus rinds, coal smoke, tar and a few gentle medicinal qualities such as bandages and ointments. Finish: good length, a big, drying smokiness, warming peaty flavours and seawater. Comments: the nose was a tad uncertain, but everything arrived in its place on the palate. Reminds me of some much later, very quaffable batches of Longrow CV in some ways.
SGP: 465 - 88 points. |
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Longrow 16 yo (46%, OB for Spanish market, SC999, screw cap, 75cl, +/-1990)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: much lighter than expected and very lemony at first nosing, really on citrus curds and liqueurs, but then the peat starts to unfurl, a very soft quilt of elegant, drying peat smoke, hints of eucalyptus leaf, white miso and sandalwood. Superb elegance! Mouth: once again, a very delicate old Longrow. The same sense of soft peat, but with a rather brittle, fragility to it now. Soft coastal notes, smoked sea salt, camphor, linseed oil, old rolling tobacco, dried herbs, lapsing souchong tea, wormwood - a lot of things all at once, yet still remaining very gentle with it. Some dried seaweed and bouillon broth too. Finish: long, but gentle once again, full of graceful peaty, waxy and lemony qualities. Some herbal teas and infusions in the aftertaste. Comments: There’s a beauty about this, which was to be expected given the pedigree, but there’s also a fragility about it which probably costs it a couple of points if we are being honest. Definitely a whisky which would have benefitted from a higher bottling strength, unless this one has softened in bottle considerably over the years?
SGP: 563 - 89 points. |
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Longrow 14 yo (46%, OB, rotation 07/141, pale vatting)
Meaning this was bottled in 2007. I remember when this bottling first came out, I purchased one from Loch Fyne Whiskies with great excitement, I’ve always had a big soft spot for this bottling since then. Colour: white wine. Nose: ahh yes! Impeccable coastal freshness, mineral peat smoke, pure tar, wet beach pebbles, sheep wool, lemon juice, sardines with parsley and olive oil and pure seawater. Mouth: fantastically powerful and pure peaty flavour on arrival. More of these big coastal impressions of sardines, anchovies, tar, pickling brine, seawater, camphor and soy sauce. Very salty in fact, full on briny, tarry and peaty mode! Finish: very long, fantastically on brine, lemon juice, tar, wet rocks, chalk, mineral salts and a tiny glimmer of aniseed. Comments: I think these mid-era batches of the 14 were this rather humble bottlings pinnacle, the earlier batches had much more sherry and, while very good, didn’t have the raw power and vivid purity of character that this one displays.
SGP: 366 - 91 points. |
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What about a pair of sherried 18 year olds…? |
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Longrow 18 yo (46%, OB, rotation 12/155, sherry)
A 2012 release. Colour: deep gold. Nose: that familiar Springbank sherry cask ‘accent’, which is full of cooking oils, groundnuts, mushrooms, roast pheasant and pipe tobaccos. It’s this combination of gamey, earthy and metallic that is so specific, but this gives way to the peat rather rapidly and it becomes much more ‘Longrow-esque’ with pure, tarry peat, crushed seashells, soy sauce, squid ink. Also lots of tarred rope, aniseed and camphor. Pretty brilliant nose! Mouth: the sherry and the peat don’t quite clash, but they vie for your attention. Lots of overripe oranges and spiced marmalade, along with natural tar, more camphor, tar, gentian, liquorice root and big umami notes of miso and anchovy paste. Big, complicated and powerful whisky - the sort of thing that only Springbank would release as an official 18 year old. Finish: long, very salty, umami, gamey, richly peaty and warming. Comments: I think the sherry does make this tricky in some regards. It’s excellent whisky, and some parts show glimmers of true brilliance, but the sherry brings a slight discombobulation at times. There are plenty other batches of Longrow 18 from bourbon which are solid 92 point material.
SGP: 466 - 88 points. |
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Longrow 18 yo (46%, OB, 2022 release, sherry)
Colour: pale amber. Nose: the sherry here is a bit flintier, leaner, more mineral and more on earthy and tobacco notes. It’s also a little bigger in terms of overall sherry influence than the 2012 I would say. The peat is perhaps a little more subservient to the sherry in that regard, lots of thick tarry vibes, camphor, salted liquorice and growing notes of anchovy paste, soy sauce and miso - these sherried Longrow can be really umami! Mouth: ah yes! Once again these colliding notes of roast game meats, gravy and dry roast peanuts, but with a more cohesive and integrated phenolic character and peat profile. Very thick, peppery, gamey, leathery and with many tobaccos, liquorice, pure tar extract and old Fernet Branca vibes. Finish: long, on herbal bitters, camphor, soy sauce and game meats again. Comments: I would characterise these fully sherried, modern Longrow bottlings as whiskies for your tumbler, whereas the bourbon cask ones are more for your copita. I love this, but they’re quite rugged, challenging malts.
SGP: 466 - 89 points. |
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Longrow 21 yo (46%, OB, 30% bourbon, 60% sherry, 10% chardonnay, bottled 2022)
Colour: gold. Nose: tar, coal embers, wet rocks, sheep wool, some candied fruit notes that also imply citrus curds and various types of marmalade. Maintains a good level of peaty purity and freshness, with a nicely building mineral character. Mouth: good, spicy arrival, but I feel this is a step down from the 18s. There’s a slightly jammy aspect and a touch of winey wood character that feels a bit out of whack with the peat influence. Some ginger wine, camphor, rusty nail cocktail, aniseed and resinous fir wood. It’s fine, but I feel like the gentle promise of the nose has been somewhat lost. Finish: medium, again a slight feeling of sappy wood, with green pepper, damp smoke and some funny rice wine impressions. Comments: the nose was promising, but the cask bill doesn’t convince on the palate for me I’m afraid. I feel like Longrow, for all its power, can actually be quite a fragile distillate under the influence of conflicting wood types.
SGP: 555 - 85 points. |
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Longrow 14 yo 2007/2022 (54.5%, Cadenhead ‘Wood Range - Wine Cask’, Sauternes cask, 246 bottles)
Fully matured in Sauternes. I’m not a fan of wine casks usually, but I have a soft spot for Sauternes casks, which I think can often work quite well with whisky. Let’s hope we are a long way from Longrow Tokaji wood… Colour: pale amber. Nose: soft, clean peat smoke and coastal notes. Some smoked fish, tarred rope, black pepper and hints of miso and soy sauce. So far, so good… With water: gets much more rugged, salty and tarry. More big impressions of smoked and salt cured fish, brine and aniseed. Mouth: the Sauternes is more evident here, but it’s all on spiced honeys, camphor, muscle rub, tar extracts and herbal bitters - all good in other words. I rather like this syrupy and concentrated style that still lets the Longrow peaty qualities shine through. With water: lovely notes of smoked olive oil, kippers with lemon juice, pure tar, TCP, horseradish and preserved lemons. Finish: long, very peaty, tarry, peppery, with iodine, gherkin brine and capers. Comments: not sure I’d have mentioned Sauternes if it wasn’t on the label. I like it a lot.
SGP: 466 - 88 points. |
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Longrow 17 yo 2004/2021 (49.5%, Cadenhead ‘Wood Range’, rum barrel, 210 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: no obvious rum influence, instead this is really limey and lemony and pure, with white flowers, seawater, grapefruit juice and paraffin. Rather precise and sharp in this sense, with some cider apple, chalk and hay in the background. Mouth: very coastal and sharp, with some great and playful notes of gherkin, kipper, tar, aniseed, coal dust and wet beach pebbles. That chalkiness is also back and begins to involve, bitter herbs, crushed aspirin and lemon juice on fresh oysters. A very sharp, pure and mineral malt whisky - it’s more Mezcal than rum in that regard I would say. Finish: long and very sharp, on lime juice, bone dry cider, sourdough and strong vibes of penicillin cocktails! Comments: I like it specifically because it tastes like a very sharp, pure and tightly coastal Longrow, and very little like rum.
SGP: 465 - 87 points. |
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Longrow 20 yo 2001/2022 (47.9%, OB for Springbank Society, six refill barrels, 1488 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: we’re immediately back at that pale vatting 14yo, pure, crisp peat smoke, tar, seawater, anchovies, smoked olive oil, smoked teas and kippers. Also iodine, lemon juice, green olives and mineral oils. Recalls some of those 1970s vintages in some respects. Mouth: great arrival, a harmonious blend of pure peat smoke, seawater, capers in brine, lemon juice on oysters and some slightly fruitier suggestions of grapefruit and green herbs. I love this simple purity and vividness of personality. Finish: long, very lemony and brightly citric, some sourdough and yeasty notes, camphor, putty, lime, fennel seed and bonfire smoke. Wonderfully salty and peaty aftertaste! Comments: rather simplistic in some respects, but I just love this pure, refill style Longrow that gives the distillate maximum stage time. Beautiful purity and a glorious aftertaste.
SGP: 465 - 90 points. |
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Longrow 13 yo 1998/2012 (55%, Cadenhead ‘Authentic Collection’, bourbon hogshead, 306 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: gherkins strike once again, but with a really emphatic, thick peaty character, then pink grapefruit, smoked olive oil, seawater and very delicate hints of geranium, miso, spearmint and tea tree oil. Feels deceptively complex on the nose in fact. With water: evolves beautifully, with preserved lemons, bay leaf, cedar wood and camphor. Still with this really thick, slightly muddy peaty character at its heart. Mouth: proper Longrow, very in keeping with the 20yo, but earthier, rootier, more herbal and more fermentary. Lots of cider apple, sourdough, medicinal herbs, gentian, tar, aniseed and roast parsnip. Add to that a farmy quality that keeps growing, full on sheep wool, coal tar soap, muddy bog vibes etc. I love it! With water: superb now! Big, medicinal peat, very coastal, fat, waxy, syrupy almost in texture, smoked olive oil, salted almonds, tar, caraway and iodine. Finish: long, getting drying, smoky, full of ointments, sea salt, minerals and tar. Comments: I really think Longrow needs the humblest of cask types to show at its best. With these, plus time, it cannot be improved upon in my view. This lovely 1998 being one very good example of that.
SGP: 566 - 90 points. |
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Excellent, I think we have sufficiently Longrowed for one day. Big thanks to Cicada, KC and Andy! |
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Concert Review
by Nick Morgan
Nick Cave and thew Bad Seeds
Glasgow Hydro, Sunday 3rd November |
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| Billy Graham preaching at Wembley (Daily Mail obituary) |
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I am neither the first, nor I imagine the last person to observe that of recent times Nick Cave concerts have become rather like intense religious experiences, as if the one-time daemon of rock and roll has formed an unholy alliance with the man (or woman) upstairs. It all seemed to start changing around 2013 with the release of Push the Sky Away, when Cave developed a penchant for plunging into his audience (a la Iggy Pop), leaving a procession of fevered proselytes in his wake. |
He pretty much sticks to the stage these days, but when he’s not at the piano he mostly leaning forward into the crowd beseeching them to follow his word. My last two Cave and the Bad Seeds outings (2018 and 2022) were in London’s Victoria Park (the All Points East festival), which had the feeling of a revivalist meeting. an old fashioned tent show of the sort my dad remembered the Methodists doing when he was a boy in Herefordshire. Tonight, at Glasgow’s Hydro (around 15,000 capacity), it feels more like one of those Billy Graham London Crusade meetings at Wembley Stadium (in the 1950s, 70,000 capacity). Who will declare the truth? Who will be saved? |
Of course a lot of water has flown under the bridge since 2013. Personal tragedy for Nick Cave and his family. A global pandemic (nothings the same, right?). Three albums with the Bad Seeds – Skeleton Tree, Ghosteen, and this year’s Wild God (‘this masterpiece will make you fall back in love with life’ said Alexis Petridis in The Guardian). 2021’s Carnage, a remarkable collaboration with Bad Seed Warren Ellis, and my first IRL concert after Covid in October of that year at the Royal Albert Hall, a very memorable event simply for that, if not also for the astonishing performance Cave also performed a livestreamed and beautifully filmed solo show (Idiot Prayer) from the Ally Pally in the height of the lockdown in June 2020, which I imagine had more than a few of use crying tears into our medicinal martinis. Oh – and for the record Donald Trump has twice been elected President of the United States. |
Outside the Hydro a group of flag waving protestors are expressing their anger at Cave’s longstanding refusal to join the cultural boycott of Israel. Upstairs in the peanut gallery one of them stands up (I note after almost two hours of the concert) and begins to rebuke Cave with a torrent of expletives heard only by those in the immediate seats – as he was led away by a steward he was followed by a chorus of ‘get tae fuck’ from the workshop of the world’s music lovers. By the time we left they were all away, no doubt at the pub. |
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On stage are a very hybrid bunch of Bad Seeds. Keyboards stalwart Conway Savage died in 2018, and due to illness induced absences bass player Martyn P Casey and drummer Thomas Wylder are replaced by Radiohead’s Colin Greenwood and sometimes Stooge Larry Mullins (aka Toby Dammit). Carly Paradis is on keyboards. Also on stage are longstanding guitarist George Vjestica, even longer-standing and towering percussionist and drummer Jim Sclavunos, and Cave’s principal collaborator violinist and guitarist Warren Ellis. Towards the end of the show Cave described them as ‘the best rock and roll band in the world’ – well I’ve seen numerous incarnations of the Bad Seeds over the years; they never disappoint, and always shock and awe. But perhaps driven by the intensity of Cave’s performance, and the way with back to the audience he urges them on, like a magician trying to conjure up some malevolent familiar, they achieve a level of shock and awe that, in keeping with the evening, is transcendent. |
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The set begins with the opening three songs from Wild God (there are eight in total, all of which stand shoulder to shoulder with the older more familiar material), and then ‘Oh Children’ from Abattoir Blues, which might seem like an unlikely choice for a Harry Potter movie soundtrack, but no doubt it helped pay for the always lovely outfits the band wear. ‘Perhaps the biggest difference between touring with Radiohead and Nick Cave’, said Greenwood interviewed in The New Statesman, ‘is the sartorial elegance of the Bad Seeds. Every evening in our dressing room, we are presented with a rack of steamed and pressed suits, and starched and ironed shirts’ (for the record, and to maintain political balance, I should add that Warren Ellis got two pages in The Spectator). Behind and above Greenwood are the four backing singers Janet Ramus, T Jae Cole, Miça Townsend and Wendi Rose, the ladies decked out in flowing silver gowns designed by Susie Cave whose glorious singing adds a particular gospel feeling to many of the songs. But don’t get complacent. After Children the Bad Seeds launched the first unprovoked assault on the audience with the crescendo to Jubilee Street. They like a nice crescendo do the Bad Seeds; this is the first of many, each more visceral than the last. Greenwood described it (in the NME) as a ‘euphoric intensity’ – he’s not wrong. |
‘I’m a storyteller’ says Cave to the audience, ‘It’s what I do. I tell stories for old people’. One of the most moving stories of the evening is Wild Ghost’s ‘Joy’ – a conversation between a grieving father and a lost child. ‘I woke up this morning with the blues all around my head, |
I felt like someone in my family was dead …’. It’s hard to read the lyrics to this one, let alone hear them sung, without crying, but the song surprises you with its unexpectedly optimistic ending. ‘We've all had too much sorrow, now is the time for joy’ says the lost boy, and joyous is how the song ends. As I recall the Hydro listened in perfect silence, as they did for the eventual encore, a solo performance at the piano of ‘Into My Arms’. |
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In between that Cave sang like a man possessed, danced and gyrated like Scott Walker’s singer with a Spanish bum, bounded up and down the stage from drummer Mullins to the worshiping crowd, like a man half his age. As Cave warmed to his congregation The Dear Green Place went from ‘Glasgow’, to ‘fucking Glasgow’ to ‘motherfucking Glasgow’ which I took to be the highest form of praise. Sclavunos caressed his vibraphone and hammered his bells. Mullins waved his arms and battered his drums and timpani. Greenwood, eyes often fixed on Mullins, powered through the tunes like an old-timer. Carly Paradis was mostly hidden and surrounded by keyboards, but occasionally took centre stage on Cave’s (Yamaha C7) piano. George Vjestica, almost motionless on left stage, played perfect acoustic and electric guitars and sang. Ellis was as flamboyant as ever, fiddle in the air, pedal driven guitars and loops providing a mesmerising background to the ceremony. |
There are two songs from Carnage, ‘Cinnamon Horses’ and ‘Carnage’ and from the back catalogue ‘Tupelo’, ‘Red Right Hand’, ‘The Mercy Seat’, ‘Papa won’t leave you, Henry’ and ‘The Weeping Song’. If you know the material, you’ll know exactly where and when the shock and awe moments were in that bunch. And like I said, each one more shocking than the last. You do wonder quite how long Mr Cave and his bad Bad Seeds can keep this up for – there comes a point when all bands are supposed to slow down a little, but they all seem to be so driven that they just get better and stronger each time I see them. Long may it motherfucking last. - Nick Morgan |
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