Rums to Warm Us Up


November 10, 2024

A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

Rums to Warm Us Up

The landscape around Château Whiskyfun has changed: the leaves have fallen from the vines, the few fields lie fallow, and a peaceful silence hangs over the small town, interrupted only by the distant cries of a few migratory birds and the barking of a dog waiting for its owner outside the bakery door. And here we are, with a few rums on the table (what a rubbish introduction, S.!).

At Poisson on Marie-Galante.

Père Labat ‘Le Rhum Soleil’ (55%, OB, Guadeloupe, agricole, +/-2023)

Père Labat ‘Le Rhum Soleil’ (55%, OB, Marie-Galante, agricole, +/-2023)

By Distillerie Poisson. The label calls it ‘rhum brun’, yet its appearance is more akin to a pale straw. Aged – or more precisely, gently oxygenated – for six months in a large oak vat. Colour: white wine. Nose: a delightful burst of green and black olives that one can’t help but relish, laced with diesel fumes and strong adhesive, alongside ultra-ripe bananas and the lively scent of fresh sugarcane juice. A superb distillate with merely a touch of air, blissfully free from any intrusive woodiness. With water: minimal change, save for a subtle shift towards a brinier profile with an added sweetness and a touch more cane juice. Mouth (neat): bold and bracing, with notes of anise joining lemon and olives. A thrilling sharpness indeed. With water: earthy, slightly tarred cane emerges, accompanied by lemon and grapefruit zest. Finish: long and enduring, dominated by a triumphant return of olives, hints of seawater, and a follow-up of lemon peel. Comments: Père Labat is consistently excellent, and this expression shines particularly well in its natural state. Or in uncountable numbers of Ti' Punches.
SGP:462 - 87 points.

Since we're talking about amber or straw tones…

Neisson ‘Profil Equilibre Carole Aurore’ (49%, OB, Martinique, LMDW Foundations, 2024)

An intriguing blend of three distinct rums aged between 12 and 24 months in new American oak casks. Neisson, known for preserving the purity of its distillate, faces the test of this 'wood technology' experiment. Colour: pale gold. Nose: decidedly softer, more refined (although Martinique and Guadeloupe have been anything but civilised lately), with hints of melon sorbet, banana, and sweet liquorice, followed by subtle notes of courgette flower, honeysuckle, and yuzu. Fresh turmeric and a touch of verbena emerge before the fresh cane steps in assertively. Mouth: well-balanced indeed, showcasing lemon, a delightful salinity, liquorice, and a whisper of fruit-tree sawdust or perhaps sandalwood? The woody notes harmonise seamlessly with the salted liquorice. Finish: long and saline, with a manzanilla-like character that we so admire. Comments: an excellent young Neisson, expertly crafted as expected, though perhaps somewhat overshadowed by the pristine purity of the Père Labat.
SGP:561 – 85 points.

Islay Rum ‘Barrel Aged’ (46%, OB, UK, 2024)

We’ve tasted a few rums aged in Islay whisky casks before (a bit of a Frankenstein concept, if you ask me, even when it’s well-executed and rather enjoyable). This one hails from the esteemed Vintage Malt Whisky Company, a reputable bunch, and is crafted at the old lemonade works opposite Port Ellen Distillery. Quite the invigorating setting, no doubt. With Islay not exactly renowned for sugarcane fields, one presumes imported molasses or cane 'honey' must be used. It brings to mind ‘Ninefold,’ a decent Scottish rum we scored at WF 79. Colour: straw/pale gold. Nose: well, it’s absolutely charming! You’d almost suspect a few nocturnal litres of Port Ellen were siphoned off (if only Port Ellen had restarted earlier, one might seriously wonder). Spruce wood, tarmac, petrol, green olives, baker’s yeast, charcoal smoke, seawater, and a couple of oysters… it’s delightful, straddling English and French styles with a clear Islay twist. Mouth: ah yes, here we find peat ash intertwined with tar, seawater, and those iconic olives, dotted with a few lemon zest shavings. Likely the work of coastal casks lending their magic to the maturation. Finish: long, smoky, ashy. Comments: Jamaica has often been dubbed ‘the Islay of rum,’ but never has Islay been called ‘the Jamaica of whisky’—there’s a first time for everything. All in all, we find it truly enjoyable and not as ‘transitional’ as one might think; a visit to the distillery is certainly in order.
SGP:563 – 85 points.

Tierra Madre ‘Island Signature’ (40%, Odevie, Guatemala, +/-2024)

Despite its lofty aging in the Guatemalan highlands, which might challenge its 'island rum' designation, does that really matter? When Guatemala is mentioned, names like Botran and Zacapa spring to mind—Darsa, in other words. Let’s see if this one follows the sugary path. Colour: gold. Nose: yes, there’s grapefruit and pineapple liqueur, with hibiscus and ylang-ylang notes, presenting as rather inviting and fresh. So, as far as the nose goes, check! Mouth: it’s a touch sweet, light, and slightly herbaceous, featuring cane and cane syrup, a hint of candied sugar, and whispers of baked apple with cinnamon. Pleasant enough, though decidedly light. Finish: short, with a hint of bitterness and a touch of liquorice wood. Comments: far less cloying than the typical Guatemalan rums we’re familiar with (and not ones generally endorsed by the World Dentist Organisation).
SGP:551 – 78 points.

Grays Very Special Orange Product 4 yo (50%, Vagabond Spirit, Mauritius, 2024)

An intriguing creation indeed. This is a 51-month-old rhum traditionnel from Mauritius, given a final flourish with a 2-month finish in Cognac casks (common enough) and ex-orange liqueur casks from Prunier (rarely seen). Reduced meticulously, ‘drop by drop,’ from 64% to 50%, in line with the creed of true artisans. Colour: full gold. Nose: the world is divided into two camps (and not just Democrats and Republicans)—those who adore grand orange liqueurs of all kinds, and those who’ve never tried them. This affable rum bridges that divide nicely. Notes of orange, orange blossom, acacia honey, with hints of chalk and earth. With water: even more orange blossom, fresh panettone, orange cream, and orange cupcakes emerge. Mouth (neat): more complex on the palate, with notes reminiscent of marc and berry eau-de-vie, all layered with honey and orange marmalade. It’s potent. With water: a subtle medicinal touch that’s rather intriguing. Overall, it works seamlessly. Finish: medium length, gentle, featuring peach yoghurt, likely an influence from the Cognac. A quinine-like note lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: approaching the realm of spiced rum but far more intricate than most of the few I’ve tasted. I had my doubts, but it’s genuinely very good.
SGP:741 – 83 points.

T.D.L. 14 yo 2009/2024 (63%, The Roots for Dram4ALS, Trinidad, bourbon cask, cask #4, 201 bottles)

This special bottling supports a noble cause, with proceeds aiding the fight against Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis in honour of Alain. Colour: amber. Nose: a blend that oscillates between the exuberant fruitiness of some TDLs and the more industrial, petrol-like qualities of certain Caronis, if that paints a picture. Whiffs of hair lotion and hairspray join ripe mango, banana, and an abundance of liquorice. Hard to delve deeper at this high ABV, however. With water: salted liquorice fudge (visually reminiscent of coal), fresh rubber, shoe polish, and the anticipated olives appear. This Trinidadian rum leans into Jamaican territory. Mouth (neat): a heady mix of petrol, salt, overripe mango, pineapple eau-de-vie, pepper, and varnish. And, notably, a significant ethanol punch. With water: an exotic fruit medley meets seawater and shoe polish—unexpectedly delightful. Finish: very long and very saline. Comments: quite the formidable beast; if you acquire a bottle, ensure your pipette is at hand (and know you’re exceptionally classy for supporting Dram4ALS).
SGP:662 – 90 points.

Hampden 8 yo 2016/2024 ‘LROK’ (65%, Rest & Be Thankful for Wu Dram Clan and Kirsch Import, cask #4, 2024)

Colour: gold. Nose: I’ll be brief. Brake dust (think Parisian metro), pickle brine, green olives, preserved lemon, Atlantic sea spray (why not?), and borderline overripe mango. With water: just unmistakably Hampden. A bit like Ardbeg, where naming the distillery says it all. New rubber. A friend once quipped about “a latex S&M suit,” though we haven’t spoken to him in ages—thankfully. True story. Still, you get the drift, I hope. Mouth (neat): sublime salted lemon infused with petrol and ash. Quite the powerhouse, but you did notice the strength, right? With water: somewhere between fine fino sherry, praline, and salted lemon leading straight to agave spirit or even sotol, for variety’s sake. Note to self: try a few sotols one Sunday, space permitting. Finish: very long, with gherkins, olives, and salmiak. An unexpected touch of vanilla in the aftertaste. Comments: a magnificent young Hampden, tough to beat in its league.
SGP:463 – 90 points.

HD Jamaica 2013/2024 (60.3%, The Whisky Jury for Care for Craft Spirits and Whisky-Age, refill barrel, cask #434985, 270 bottles)

Just a reminder: here, ‘HD’ doesn’t mean Harley-Davidson. Colour: pale gold. Nose: oh, here we go—ash galore (cigar, resinous wood, charcoal), seamlessly intertwined with lemon, tar, brine, and petrol. Plus hints of slate and basalt. That’s it, but it’s more than enough. I must confess (for the umpteenth time), I love this profile. With water: that exhaust pipe notes of an old car burning a bit of oil, familiar from certain Hampden releases. Add carbon paper, old books, a hint of yellow curry, and mango chutney… there’s remarkable depth as you dig in. Mouth (neat): almost binary, dominated by salted lemon. Wonderful, but knowing it’ll shine with water… With water: indeed, classic, flawless, peppery and saline, with just the right amount of rubber, tar, glue, and lemon. Finish: same story, it lingers for ages. Unexpected icy mint touches on the back-palate. Comments: even more intensely saline than the already stellar 2016. Proof that age truly matters, even for these powerhouse rums.
SGP:473 – 91 points.

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far