Tasting two 1990 Aultmore

June 2, 2013

Tasting two 1990 Aultmore. Night and day, in a way.

It’s not that Aultmore is such a big name but theses two babies from the very same vintage should be very, say contrasting, as one is quite light in colour while the other one is as dark as the darkest coffee. Quite.

Aultmore 22 yo 1990 ‘Attraction’ (52.9%, McNeill's Choice, refill hogshead, +/-2013)

Mr McNeill’s quite a character! Colour: straw. Nose: starts just a wee bit sulphury and rubbery (no ‘sherry’ sulphur of course) but it’s soon to turn into a fruitier and sweeter dram, with a combination of ripe apples and marshmallows, a profile that’s quite attractive indeed. More custard and fresh walnuts after that, even fresh asparagus, as well as a little lemon. With water: becomes much fresher, very ‘young fruity Speyside’. Apples and sweet barley, perhaps a little muesli. Mouth (neat): punchy, lemony and bubblegumy, with quite some pepper roaring in the background. Peppered marshmallows? All that is rather unusual, thus interesting. With water: a little more honey but otherwise it does not change much. Sweet barley, apples, white pepper. Finish: a tad short and, as usual, rather drier. Tea. Comments: a very fine typical unsherried Speysider. SGP:441 - 82 points.

Aultmore 1990 (57.9%, Jack Wiebers, Brass & Mining Collection, +/-2013)

Colour: dark amber/coffee. Nose: extreme chocolaty and coffee-ish sherriness, very dry. Also bags and bags of old walnuts, with a good box of used matches also thrown in. So it’s probably that very polarising style again but I swear there isn’t any cooked cabbage, rotten eggs or straight mercaptan. Honest! With water: same, only with more flints. Also pipe tobacco – and a lot – and soy sauce. Within this specific style it’s quite perfect. Mouth (neat): heavy sherry, leathery and almost as peppery as the McNeill’s. A lot of dry sherry, bitter chocolate, heavy liquorice and unsweetened coffee. Artichoke liqueur. Water should bring out more sweetness… With water: indeed, more sultanas and strong honey (chestnut). Finish: long and very dry again. Coffee, cloves and liquorice wood. Comments: some Glendronachs are like this. Big dry sherry, really to my liking. SGP:362 - 87 points.

Check the index of all Aultmore I've tasted so far