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September 17, 2024 |
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New Bowmore 21 PX Sherry and indie friends
We’ll do as we often do: start with the official one, then move on to some independent companions.
Smoked chocolate (The Chalk Board)
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Bowmore 21 yo ‘Sherry Oak Cask’ (46.8%, OB, 2024) 
A new range, matured in bourbon and oloroso, then, ahem, finished in PX. Was that really necessary? But of course, we do love Bowmore, so whether it's PX-finished or not, it could still be very good. One does start to wonder, though, if southern Spain can produce enough PX to satisfy the Scots, and every other distiller in the world? (Of course they can). Colour: amber. Nose: I feel the sherry and peat somewhat cancel each other out, but without causing any real issue. You need to give it time, but then the figs, raisins, and dates from the PX come through, followed by miso, umami, tobacco, and Maggi, leading eventually to a rather charming hint of smoked ham and mashed peas. It's a fun nose, even if we ‘naturally’ prefer the more crystalline Bowmores. Mouth: really good, with cherries and dates, though somewhat anecdotal. Smoked chocolate, ham, then a growing sweet-and-savoury note—almost like African cuisine, which is excellent, by the way. Finish: medium length, more on raisins, PX, milk chocolate, and a touch of corn syrup. A faint hint of molasses. Comments: I feel like I'm back around the year 2000, with all those finishes they were starting to do—Claret, Darkest, etc. Not entirely my thing, but technically it's very well done, even if it’s a bit on the sweet side.
SGP:654 - 83 points. |
Well, this is obviously the ideal situation for indies with a natural style, or for truly sherry-matured ones... In fact, it’s probably a little unfair for the official brand. |
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Bowmore 26 yo 1997/2023 (50.1%, The Whisky Blues, butt, cask #64, 317 bottles) 
Good heavens, by Vishnu, this one's going to be a proper ordeal, so let's rip the plaster off quickly, shall we? Colour: gold. Nose: smoked almonds, lapsang souchong, camphor, seawater, oysters, and seaweed. With water: damp chalk, exhaust fumes, ashes, smoked almonds, cider apples, and clams. Mouth (neat): lemon, smoked salmon, ashes, brine, green olives, oregano, and tarragon. With water: bergamot and ashes, with a faintly oily texture. Finish: long and precise, with tiny hints of candied ginger, more lemon, crabs, ashes, lemon marmalade, and smoked ham. Comments: no need to say much, other than that the sherry has been masterfully handled here.
SGP:555 - 90 points. |
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Bowmore 20 yo 2004/2024 (54.5%, Islay Sponge, Part V, refill hogshead, 183 bottles)
That a sponge would know its way around a whisky as maritime as this comes as no surprise (S., 1/5). Colour: pale gold. Nose: boot polish, camphor, oysters, low-tide beach sand, seaweed, almond milk, and white asparagus... Crystal-clear and masterful. Wait, there are even faint notes of natural sponge, making this whisky utterly circular, perhaps even pataphysical. With water: oh yes, ashes, charcoal, polish, soot (from candles), and green apples. Mouth (neat): ashes and lemon, along with whelks and winkles. There you go. It’s perhaps slightly underwhelming compared to the nose at first. With water: no, not at all. Ashes, brine, oysters, Riesling, and cut apples. Finish: much the same. A faintly oily aftertaste (orgeat syrup). Comments: throughout, it danced between 90 and 91. But out of deference and respect for the official bottling, let’s call it…
SGP:555 - 90 points. |
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Bowmore 20 yo 2004/2024 (53.3%, WhiskyLand, refill hogshead, 171 bottles)
You know, Whisky Sponge and WhiskyLand are much of a muchness. But wait, was 2004 really 20 years ago? Colour: gold. Nose: quite similar to the Sponge, which is certainly good news. Perhaps a touch more mineral and slightly less expressive, but it gains in elegance. Think sushi, small lemons, finger lime, yuzu, and Sauvignon Blanc rather than Riesling… With water: it gets even closer to the Sponge, to the point where telling them apart becomes tricky. Mouth (neat): smoked lemon and cigar ashes in your glass. With water: slightly tauter than the Sponge, with hints of melon and peach, but honestly, you could drink a double magnum of each and still not tell them apart for certain. Best to skip that challenge, I think. Finish: superb. Matte ashes and a touch of cocoa. Comments: a magnificent WhiskyCoast… I mean, WhiskyLand. The score is merely anecdotal.
SGP:555 - 90 points. |
Total respect for Bowmore, but pouring such a distillate into PX for finishing, to me, is like drizzling cane syrup over ossetra caviar. Or wearing a Davy Crockett hat while driving your Aston Martin, to keep within a theme fitting the brand. Anyway, see you next time… |
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September 16, 2024 |
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A few recent Laphroaigs
including the lauded new 18 |
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| Twilight at Laphroaig (WF Archive, 2015) |
This time, we won’t have any ‘Secret Islay’, ‘Williamson’, ‘Leapfrog’ or ‘Bessie’s Best’... Unless we have an older one, just as an aperitif. Perhaps an old ‘Laudable’ from DL? |
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Laudable 1985/2000 (50%, Douglas Laing, Old Malt Cask, 303 bottles) 
One of the first OMCs, actually named ‘Director’s Laudable Selection’. This hails from the days when Laphroaig started getting a bit feisty with independents using their name, which is, after all, just the name of a place. But we won’t get into legalities, as that’s hardly our forte, and we wouldn’t do it for tuppence anyway. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: lovely, more crystalline than the OBs of the time, leaning towards lemon juice and green apple, with a more vegetal peat, though the medicinal elements catch up rather quickly, especially mercurochrome and iodine tincture… With water: some bitter smoked almonds, elderflower, and a hint of old paper… A bit of OBE may have started working its (very relative) magic here. Mouth (neat): oddly sweet this time, and we can’t help but use ‘limoncello’ as a descriptor. Sweet and slightly sour, with loads of ash and oysters. With water: barley syrup, brine, and lemon syrup. The brine and sweetness tussle a bit. Finish: rather long, becoming more taut, medicinal, very peaty, and quite sour. A syrupy aftertaste again. Comments: strange, it carried this surprising sweetness throughout the palate. Not the easiest of vintages.
SGP:676 - 86 points. |
Let's jump ahead 25 years... |
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Laphroaig 18 yo (48%, OB, ex-bourbon, 2024) 
Here we have the new Laphroaig 18-year-old, making a return after around a decade of absence. To be honest, I wasn’t particularly fond of the old version, which I found rather overly influenced by new American oak (WF 84) and notably inferior to the 15-year-old. It was often described as being ‘a bit plankish’. Colour: white wine. Hurray, as the previous 18 was more golden. Nose: straight to the hospital here. Bandages, camphor, a variety of balms, iodine, fresh plaster, followed by lemon and smoked oysters. It’s not an overly complex nose, but for me, it ticks all the boxes. More importantly, it buries our aperitif six feet under – or rather, under the beach! Mouth: perfect, powerful, sharp, saline, lemony, and intensely smoky. There are some small berries, a hint of rubber, a touch of tar, and a very persistent smoky, maritime character. It gradually becomes creamier, but never excessively so; the white oak behaves admirably. Finish: long, with a lovely bitterness that’s ever so slightly syrupy. The citrus pushes through in the aftertaste, joined by fresh bitter almonds. Comments: absolutely to my taste, closer to the distillate than some of the more recent official Laphroaigs, and clearly superior to the old 18.
SGP:457 - 89 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Original Cask Strength Batch 16' (58.5%, OB, Dec 22)
We’re constantly behind with these 10 C/S batches, and frankly, we’re rather ashamed. That said, they’ve become quite different from the older versions. Colour: full gold. Nose: richer than the 18, oilier, but with lovely notes of yellow pepper atop the peat and candied oranges. With water: I really like this. Chalk, plaster, shoe polish, peppers, tar, fresh paint, putty, carbolineum, and a touch of barley sugar... So far, nothing to complain about. Mouth (neat): extremely zesty. Lemon juice, ashes, green pepper, sea water, chillies, and truffled olive oil. As they say, it packs quite a punch. With water: it swims beautifully, though it does become, once again, a bit liqueur-like, a touch sweeter. We’ll mention limoncello once more. Other than that, it’s pretty much spot on. Finish: very long, with smoky, sweet, and salty citrus notes. Quite the profile. Comments: I think this is – or rather, was – an excellent batch. We might have to skip two or three to catch up over the next few months or years.
SGP:557 - 88 points. |
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Laphroaig 36 yo (40.2%, OB, The Archive Collection, second-fill oloroso finish, 400 bottles, 2024)
It seems this one’s a 1985 vintage, much like our early Laudable. Giving a finishing touch to an old legend like this malt feels a bit like the cosmetic surgery some ageing actresses undergo. Naturally, one thinks of dear Nicole K… or perhaps Ardbeg 1965. But who are we to judge, after all? Colour: gold, no darker than that. Nose: the sherry remains delightfully subtle, while the hallmark passion fruit and mango of old Laphroaigs are very much present. There’s also yellow peach, followed by old fabrics, a touch of beeswax polish, some cough drops, and a drop of gentian liqueur (Avèze, Suze). I find this much nicer than I’d feared, and in the end, it reminds me a little of the Ardbeg 30 ‘Very Old’. Indeed. Or even, in some ways, the Laphroaig 40/1960. Mouth: as expected, it’s more tired on the palate, though the initial attack is still decent – this is very much a whisky for the nose. A bit of old wood, herbal teas, orange and cinnamon biscuits, and some old walnuts, probably from the oloroso. After that magnificent nose, the palate is almost anecdotal. Finish: short, dry, with a hint of lightly brewed lapsang souchong tea. Comments: it’s charming. It’s a bit like an old black-and-white film or a 78rpm jazz record, something like vintage Ellington. But really, it’s a Laphroaig for the nose. I believe the resemblance to that superb 40-year-old stops there.
SGP:464 - 85 points. |
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September 15, 2024 |
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It's grand and grander Cognac Sunday at WF
We’ll try to avoid a vertical tasting this time, even though we rarely manage it, but let’s give it a go at random. Well, when I say ‘at random’, we’ll still focus on the ‘good small producers’ and, as usual, steer clear of the mainstream. In any case, the mainstream isn’t that keen, its scouts rarely make it to Château Whiskyfun, and you certainly won’t catch me going off to track them down here or there. Besides, remember that our main goal is to find ‘malternatives’. |
Heather honey
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Frapin ‘Extra’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2024)
A venerable cognac, entirely from their own estate, distilled on its lees. The 40% ABV and old-school presentation certainly lean into the 'retro' aesthetic, but it’s rumoured this grand old bottle contains spirits up to forty or fifty years old, though nothing is explicitly stated. Let's enjoy it. Colour: deep gold. Nose: we're quite close to the vine here, with a honeyed side and a whiff of Sémillon. The usual suspects of tinned peaches and apricots are present, followed by sultanas and a bag of liquorice allsorts, with some cedarwood and a touch of incense rounding it off. Delicate and elegant, if a tad traditional and, indeed, a little retro. Mouth: very soft, delicate, without much oomph or zing, but this smoothness is rather charming. It’s all about raisins, peach, sweet dessert wine, and a hint of tobacco. Alas, it fades a bit too quickly, at least for a malt enthusiast. Finish: very short, slightly resinous with oak, and a bit frustrating. Some apricots, sultanas, a touch of caramel, and a few orange zests. Comments: at least they didn’t finish it in mizunara. Seriously, it’s really good, even very good, just… a touch frustrating.
SGP: 6541 - 85 points. |
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Famille Cabanne ‘Lot no.100’ (46.2%, The Whisky Jury, 100th release, Grande Champagne, 199 bottles)
All rijks, I mean, all right! (not very funny, S.) The spirits from The Whisky Jury never fail to impress, and this 100th release promises to be even more so, as it seems to hold a cognac from Cabanne that is 100 years old or more. We're not entirely sure if it spent all those years in wood—perhaps some time in demi-johns, but perhaps not. Maybe we’ll find out, but in the meantime... Colour: reddish amber. Nose: good heavens, what a nose! Incredibly aromatic yet without a trace of vulgarity—quite the opposite—with a hint of old Sauternes, broom flowers, honeysuckle, and dozens of different kinds of honey. Then, finally, a little spoonful of apricot jam, like a diamond nestled in a golden diadem (getting carried away, am I?). A few more humble pine needles round off the nose. Mouth: the magic of time. There’s still firmness, with those slightly resinous notes that come with great age, but also a cascade of dried and cooked fruits, led by sultanas and, as often, peach liqueur and apricot jam. Magnificent notes of small dried figs, with a touch of argan oil adding structure in the background. Finish: medium length but firm, always with that sublime balance of pine and sultanas. Perfectly ripe yellow peach and a little coffee bring up the rear with flair. Comments: I was tempted to give this 100-year-old a perfect 100 points for the 100th anniversary, and let’s say I symbolically do, but strictly speaking, we’re closer to a very high...
SGP: 661 - 92 points. |
I find it quite amusing that, for example, for the price of one bottle of a 58 year-old, pretty dispensable family-owned old Speyside malt, you could treat yourself to exactly 100 (one hundred) bottles of the 1965 we’re about to taste. |
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Les Grandes Jouberteries 'Lot 65' (49.5%, Authentic Spirits, Fins Bois, +/-2024)
We're in Val des Vignes, and this Fins Bois is 100% ugni blanc. Colour: deep gold. Nose: magnificent, with more focus on fruit skins, liquorice wood, ripe apple, and chestnut honey. There's even a faint whiff of sea air, which is curious given we're a hundred kilometres from the ocean. Perfect, in its sublime simplicity. Mouth: it certainly doesn't feel its fifty years. There's a wonderful tension here, with oranges, apples, and peaches at the forefront, and not a single raisin in sight. Instead, we get those dried and preserved apricots we all adore—oh, and in jam form too. I also sense tiny saline notes mingling with liquorice and just a hint of lavender liqueur. Only a touch, though. Finish: long, fresh, and almost a bit malty. Cinnamon biscuits. Comments: a dram of great elegance, with perfect tension and a hint of acidity akin to a fine white wine. You could almost drink it with oysters—Arcachon, naturally.
SGP:661 - 91 points. |
Another Fins Bois (and I promise we won’t talk about pushy old malts any more today) … |
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Marie Foucher ‘La Découverte Lot 77’ (51.74%, Malternative Belgium, Fins Bois, 396 bottles, 2024)
This time we find ourselves in Foussignac, while 1977 recalls none other than Talking Heads, and in France, Cerrone (gasp…). Colour: deep gold. Nose: a compact affair at first, all about almond croissants dripping in honey, then a splash of orange liqueur. A drop of water should liven things up a bit... With Water: yes, indeed, more layers of honey emerge, alongside roasted peanuts and cashews, praline, a hint of orange blossom, dried pear, and figs. Mouth (neat): very precise and incredibly fresh, brimming with citrus. Orange liqueur dominates, with a subtle nod to elderflower liqueur (though the elderflower stays in check, thankfully). With Water: a touch of oak peeks through, followed by herbal teas, black tea, and a faint tannic edge. Finish: long, with various citrus zests, while black tea lingers boldly in the aftertaste. Comments: Cognac and water aren’t always the easiest pair, but this is a truly excellent cognac regardless.
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
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Laurichesse ‘Les Jeux de Fruits Lot 75’ (46.8%, Malternative Belgium and Maltopedia China, Grande Champagne, 528 bottles, 2024)
A clever play on words between ‘jus de fruits’ (fruit juice) and ‘jeux de fruits’ (fruit games). Colour: amber. Nose: it’s a slow build, not immediate, it takes its time, starting off charmingly fruity (peaches) and then becoming far more complex while staying compact. In any case, coherent – if that makes sense? So, peaches, guava, orange blossom, North African pastries, then blood oranges, hints of mango, and even a touch of agricole rum in the style of J.M. – I promise you. Mouth: pencils down, sermon over. Peaches, mangos, old Bushmills, old Littlemill, old Lochside, old Balblair (S., didn’t we say no more malt talk today?). It’s as if this fruit bomb had spent a bit of time in new American oak, though we highly doubt it. Either way, it’s simply unbeatable, nothing to be done but bow down. Finish: the same. Fresh, with liquorice in the aftertaste. Comments: ‘Jeux de Fruits,’ indeed! A truly adorable cognac, at the very top. Only one flaw – you already know everything from its name; no need to even taste it. Just kidding.
SGP:751 - 92 points. |
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Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Lot 73’ (48.3%, OB for WhiskyJace, Grande Champagne, 2024)
The house of J-L Pasquet continues to grace the world with its marvellous cognacs, either directly or through independent bottlers across the globe who are highly discerning in their selections (end of the advert; price: a small glass of chilled pineau, please). Colour: amber. Nose: this one feels a touch riper than the others, leaning towards overripe apple, medlar, and even some frozen service tree fruit, giving it a subtle old Meursault vibe, which is, of course, high praise. Hints of orange zest, orgeat, and almond milk follow. Mouth: similar to the previous with just a tad more oak, which translates into Earl Grey and chamomile. Otherwise, the familiar guava, apple, mango, liquorice, fir bud liqueur, and a drop of muscat make their appearance. Finish: rather long, a bit more peppery, with possible hints of quinine. Orange peels and pine needles march along in the aftertaste. Comments: just a tiny bit more wood in the aftertaste, but still a greatly excellent cognac.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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Mauxion 1960/2024 (42%, OB for Passion for Whisky, Fins Bois, 78 bottles)
A small outturn, but from a grand vintage, mine. Indeed, that silly joke everyone’s always doing. Colour: deep gold. Nose: meadow honey, peaches in syrup, hints of rosewood, a faint touch of beeswax polish, a whisper of beech smoke, and some beeswax. The balance is perfect, almost deceptively simple due to its flawlessness. Mouth: teas and pink peppercorns, citrus peel, peach skin, followed by fig wine, arrack, herbal teas, and mullein syrup... This lot has turned ever so slightly lighter, perhaps missing a bit of kick, but the profile remains absolutely wonderful. Finish: medium length, very much focused on herbal teas. Verbena, raisins, hints of strawberry, with just a touch of tea and cardboard in the aftertaste. Comments: it feels as though it’s bidding us farewell on the palate, which is rather moving. I think it was captured at just the right moment. Still sublime, like a great actress in her twilight years (you know what I mean).
SGP:541 - 89 points. |
Shall we try some really old ones again? Let's say, to celebrate the approach of autumn. |
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Tiffon 'T.V.RES.' (43.6%, Malternative Belgium for The Antelope Macau and Kanpaikai Japan, Grande Champagne, 2023)
We could try to guess what 'TV RES' stands for, but we won’t bother – the names Tiffon and Malternative Belgium are enough to go by. All right, maybe 'Très Vieille Réserve'? The sort of phrase that rarely means much but is always endearing. Colour: glowing amber. Nose: it comes across as lightly jammy, with sultanas, mirabelle plum and damson jam, then a delicate touch of menthol and earthy tones. A bit of pipe tobacco, damp potting soil, prunes… I’d even dare to say there’s a hint of old Armagnac, but of course, that’s impossible. Mouth: similar feelings. Notes of old wood, tobacco, a leathery quality, dark chocolate, menthol, countryside black tea, and liquorice wood… It’s beautiful, very different from the others, and perhaps quite ancient. A hint of very old pu-ehr tea begins to emerge. Finish: medium in length but with a splendid earthy quality. Chocolate, prunes, and peppermint lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: yes, it does feel very old. It’s superbly, superbly good, in a style quite distinct from all the others, perhaps more classic.
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
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Mauxion ‘Lot 36’ (43.2%, OB for Passion for Whisky, Borderies, 2024)
Well, here we are, skipping right over the Second World War, and we find ourselves in the Borderies – the 'frontiers'. Eighty years in cask, followed by just a few years in a demijohn to enjoy a well-earned paradise. I must say, it’s always a moving experience to taste cognacs that ‘could have been sipped without a second thought during the war, yet narrowly escaped that fate’. Colour: gold. Really not dark. Nose: oh, how lovely this is! Moss, ferns, mushrooms, mint, camphor, melon, overripe apples, and those everlasting honeys… did you know honey is the best-preserved organic product of all? Mouth: quite incredible how fresh it is after 80 years in cask. The honeys and ripe fruits are staggeringly vibrant—apples, melons, peaches of course—followed by earth, tobacco, verbena, mint, anise, gentian, bergamot, a touch of mead, and even, for fun, a drop of Buckfast tonic wine. Really. Finish: beautifully long, without the slightest hint of misplaced wood. Roasted and caramelised pecans in the aftertaste. Comments: astonishingly fresh and precise after all these years. The successive cellar masters who oversaw this cask did a top-notch job, unless it’s all down to luck. If so, hooray for luck! Let’s not forget the ultimate rule everyone’s overlooked: when it comes to maturation, the best method is often ‘to do nothing at all’ as old managers used to claim, though that’s become hardly modern. Long live the passing of time!
SGP:651 - 93 points. |
It all comes down to one last one... |
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Vallein Tercinier 1935/2024 (47%, OB for Kirsch Import, Petite Champagne)
Now, this charming drop was transferred to demijohns in 1990, so technically speaking, it spent 55 years in wood hence is a 55 years old. Personally, I’d consider time in glass as well, never fully sealed (for glass containers can't be entirely sealed, unless you're in some sort of vacuum chamber at a constant temperature). Let’s say, it counts for roughly twenty percent of the time in wood, just a wild guess. So, 55 years + (34*0.20) gives us around 62 years, give or take. Open to debate, naturally. Colour: amber (Baltic variety). Nose: old waxes, beeswax polish, a vintage library with cedarwood, fir, yew, and a good deal of thuja. Orchard apples, and the interior of an old Jag (a proper Jag, mind you), then we get some mint, eucalyptus, Tiger Balm, and even a whiff of old Ardbeg – and I’m not joking (think early 1970s). Of course, a few raisins sneak in too. Mouth: resins, pine needles, and a lot of liquorice wood start to take over a bit, which makes it clear why some very clever soul decided to move this nectar into glass in 1990 – just imagine, that was before Oasis even formed! The fruit has been beautifully preserved, leaning more towards liqueurs, sweet wines, orange liqueur, and even a touch of calvados. There's some verbena in there as well. Finish: long and almost refreshing with all that menthol, liquorice, and indeed, the verbena too. Comments: this is a true journey across multiple temporal dimensions. A magnificent cognac that highlights why quick-fix flavouring with any kind of thing (no names mentioned) simply doesn’t cut it. The whisky world should catch on to that again soon enough.
SGP: 661 - 92 points. |
Serge from cognacfun.com signing off. |
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September 14, 2024 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Inchgower & Tamdhu Times Two
A couple of quick pairs this week. All flying pretty high it would seem... |
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Inchgower 13 yo 2009/2023 (58.5%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Connoisseur’s Choice’, cask #803988, refill sherry hogshead, 241 bottles) 
Colour: pale amber. Nose: a rather lean and mineral-driven sherry profile, but still quite big for a refill, with hints of hessian cloth and oily toolbox rags. Also linseed oil, treacle cake and sandalwood. With water: some wet leaves, petrichor notes, cigar humidor and wee cereal hints in the background. Mouth: good leafy, nicely earthy sherry profile, that displays rather a lot of green walnuts, tobacco leaf, sultana and Dundee fruit cake. There’s also a recurrence of this feeling of slightly fuller bodied aspects like toolboxes and oily rags. With water: really very good now, excellent clean, mineral and nicely tense sherry profile, with underlying oiliness of texture, cereals and light waxy notes. Finish: medium, on coffee and walnut cake, cocoa and some woody cupboard spices such as clove. Comments: a humble and impressive wee Inchgower. Also a very good example of excellent refill sherry I would say.
SGP: 461 - 87 points. |
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Inchgower 23 yo 1998/2022 (52.3%, Club Qing for Bar Salavador, #9994, bourbon barrel, 141 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: hey, honeys and waxes and pollens aplenty! Also a little peppery aspect, with dried exotic fruits and hints of lychee and custard too. Lush and extremely inviting. With water: grassy, bright and gently exotic now, with a subtle waxy and oily suggestiveness. Makes you think of some kind of Irish Clynelish. Mouth: really quite surprisingly fruity, in a way that makes you think of much older whiskies with these abundant honey and concentrated fruity notes. Green and exotic fruits in particular, along with more custardy vibes and then some touches of oak spice and varnish, in a good way. With water: super fruity and even more grassy now, veering really towards older Irish malts all of a sudden, or even pure pot still with this impressive and robust oily texture. Finish: good length, maintaining this fruitiness, light grassy and oily qualities and becoming brighter, sharper and greener. Comments: really excellent and surprising whisky with great evolution. Is Inchgower a malt we should be paying much more attention to?
SGP: 641 - 90 points. |
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Tamdhu 50 yo 1972/2022 (47.7%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Private Collection’, cask #3430, 143 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: beehive territory, which feels comfortingly familiar and similarly inhabited by Glen Grants, Caperdonichs and any number of other classic Speysiders of the same vintage. Acacia honey, sun cream, pressed flower petals, crystallised mango, tiny hints of dried rosemary and abundant, soft waxiness. Mouth: superbly honeyed and fruity, and actually even a little fresher than the nose suggested, which is a pleasant surprise. Goes on with chamomile and green tea, yellow fruits, camphor, aniseed and touches of lemon liqueur and heather ale. In fact it does develop some really nice bready and beery touches that bind with the waxiness and honey qualities beautifully. Finish: medium and still on honey, fir wood resins, mead, camphor and wax. Comments: another glorious very old whisky from G&M’s warehouses. One where I’d say the palate is slightly ahead of the nose, which is a nice subversion for a change.
SGP: 651 - 91 points. |
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Tamdhu 1967/2002 (52.5%, Moon Import for Japan, The Animals, hogshead, cask #12)
Colour: very deep gold. Nose: pretty sensational, pairs the full beehive effect of the G&M but only with more power, more freshness, more ripe yellow fruits and a more vivid waxy character. Globally though, the profiles are quite close, with more notes of sandalwood, face cream, lanolin and fruit teas, dried citrus peels and crystallised exotic fruit notes. With water: rather a lot of pineapple, with hints of juniper wood, caraway and linseed oil. Rather more gentle and fragrant now I’d say. Mouth: perhaps not as luminous as the nose but still flying high. I find the wood a little spicier here with pink peppercorn, clove, star anise and camphor. Also resinous fir woods and waxes aplenty. With water: gets broader and little more balanced between fruits and spices, nicely warming peppery notes, cedar wood, ground ginger, lemon balm and other gentle medicinal implications. I find an increasing herbal quality too. Finish: medium with gentle exotic fruits, dried pineapple and soft waxes. Comments: we’re back in more familiar order with the nose being a couple of notches ahead of the palate overall, but globally I find it pretty much the same quality as the older G&M.
SGP: 651 - 91 points. |
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September 13, 2024 |
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Quick, a few Aultmore
We quite like Aultmore, we'll enjoy them gradually.
Patchouli (Wiki)
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Aultmore 9 yo (46%, James Eadie, Small Batch, first fill bourbon and refill barrels, 1119 bottles, 2024) 
According to the label, it seems like a bottling meant for the Vatican, doesn’t it? You might laugh, but WF does have readers in the Vatican. Okay, one reader, and apparently a loyal one at that. Colour: straw. Nose: exactly like a young Speysider matured in fine American oak. Candle wax (perhaps for the Vatican), vanilla, sourdough, banana skin, and very fresh brioche (still alive and kicking). Very charming, amen. Mouth: a bit rougher, more herbal, with apple peelings, Nescafé, fresh branches, and a fair amount of yeast and vanilla sugar. Perhaps not entirely certain of itself. Finish: rather long, with some lemon appearing but not quite managing to bring order this time around. Still, there’s that Nescafé in the aftertaste and a touch of bitterness. Comments: pleasant but slightly off the usual James Eadie mark for me. They did have an 8 yo that was more to my liking (WF 83).
SGP:571 - 80 points. |
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Aultmore 11 yo 2013/2024 (55.4%, Lady of the Glen, hogshead and rum cask finish, cask #300445, 272 bottles)
As long as the rum stays discreet... Colour: white wine. Nose: the rum isn’t going to change the Earth's rotation here. Very young malt, barley, hints of oranges and bananas, but everything is very, very discreet, almost shy. Almost reminiscent of Jameson. With water: dough, grist, flour. Mouth (neat): it goes down well, with oranges and pink grapefruits. Nothing to complain about, it’s fresh, it’s simple, it does the job. With water: same story, it does the job. A nice citrusy touch. Finish: same. A bit of yoghurt, then green pepper. Comments: it’s good.
SGP:551 - 81 points. |
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Aultmore 17 yo 2007/2024 ‘Exceptional Cask’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage ‘100 Proof Edition 1’, 1st fill oloroso butt)
So many promises! Colour: darker gold. Nose: I get it. Pure oloroso and walnut wine, plus cigars and a few prunes. No need to overdo it (I mean us, not the whisky). With water: water from the Guadalquivir. Just kidding. Old walnuts, pine bark, cocoa pods. Mouth (neat): indeed an earthy sherry, but also spicy, with bitter oranges and cardamom. Bitter almonds too. With water: the raw chocolate returns. Coffee isn’t far off but doesn’t quite reveal itself. Finish: long and oddly salty, like an amontillado from Sanlúcar. Comments: joking aside, we know that Aultmore takes sherry particularly well, but it still needs to be good sherry. And it is, there’s certainly enough here to have some fun with your pipette and your mineral water – but not too mineral, while still being sufficiently mineral. Right.
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
Let’s find an old barrel to finish up (and no, we’re not talking about one of our old friends from Glasgow or Edinburgh)... |
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Aultmore 1992/2023 (45%, Malts of Scotland, Rare Casks, bourbon barrel, cask #MoS 23023, 175 bottles)
Such a cask surely doesn't come by every day. Imagine, 30 years, or perhaps 31. Colour: pale gold. Nose: very reminiscent of that Strathmill 1988 MoS we had the other day. Lots of delicacy here, herbal teas, patchouli, a fresh pack of bidis straight from Goa (or wherever that may be), wilted rose petals, baked apples with butter, and pears poached in sweet wine... This is absolutely gorgeous, like an Impressionist landscape, showing no signs of fatigue at this point. Mouth: exactly the same, only with a bit more firmness. Orchard apples, various plums, a touch of grapefruit, a hint of myrtle, a bit of wormwood and verbena, and those notes of dried flowers. A little barley sugar brings roundness, along with even a few drops of pear liqueur. Finish: not immensely long, but elegant and refined. Apple and pear compote with a touch of cinnamon. Comments: I love this slightly improbable, thoroughly unexpected old malt. Bravo, MoS, it's superb. To sip while reading Goethe (jawohl).
SGP: 561 - 90 points. |
A little bonus pour the road… |
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Aultmore 17 yo 2006/2023 (52.3%, Maltbarn, Circles, sherry cask, 113 bottles)
This one slipped through my fingers, but we’ll soon set that right. Colour: gold. Nose: pleasant, in the style of Macallan (oops), very, very lightly smoky, with a basaltic edge, then malt, coffee, roasted pecans, and a few spent matches. This isn’t exactly Duke Ellington’s big band. With water: aubergines and used fireworks. Well, you get the picture. Mouth (neat): rather oily, but with a quirky side, mutton suet, black pepper, grilled gingerbread, and more spent matches. With water: it returns to a more righteous path, but that plasticine note remains quite prominent. Finish: rather long. Artichokes, Angostura bitters… Comments: not bad at all, but it ‘clicks’ with me less than the vast majority of Maltbarn’s whiskies. The sherry has introduced a slightly disjointed and sulphury note here. Well, in my very humble opinion.
SGP: 461 - 81 points. |
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September 12, 2024 |
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WF's Little Duos, two
artistic extremes of Glenturret |
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| The Jaguar Type C lightweight at Le Mans in 1953 (24 Heures du Mans) |
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| Let's say a young peated whisky – the peated ones, known as Ruadh Mhòr, are generally very successful IMHO – and the latest Glenturret ‘1953 24 Hours’. Overall, it must be said that among the current old Scottish wonders, some of the ‘decanters’ are a bit like a modern Lamborghini, you’d be keen to try it, but probably wouldn’t want to be seen driving it. That’s not the case with this Glenturret ‘1953’, with its elegant bottle, naturally signed by owners Lalique. But let’s start with a young peated one, as Glenturret doesn’t really have any old peated whiskies... |
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Ruadh Mhor 11 yo 2010/2021 (52.6%, WhiskyJace, Art Edition, 1st fill sherry cask)
Gorgeous label! But peat and sherry together, well, one must tread carefully—it can be magic, or it can be... not. Colour: gold. Nose: smoky and highly medicinal, almost like a pharmacy. A bit like aspirin dissolved in water, followed by a squeeze of lemon and a bold, lively smoke. The sherry is playing it shy so far. With water: here comes that long-anticipated wet chalk. Mouth (neat): lovely, sharp, citrusy, and vibrant. You’d think it was a fino cask, if it really was first fill. There’s a hint of mezcal here, reminiscent of the peated Glenturrets we’ve encountered before. Mezcal and green apple. With water: easy on the water now, mind. The medicinal side comes back, along with hints of a certain Islay distillery whose name begins with an L but doesn’t end in ‘lin’. Very, very pretty, with the sherry still keeping a low profile—or perhaps it’s perfectly integrated. Finish: long, precise, utterly classic. Lemon, apple, smoke, chalk, and so on. Comments: a delightful young peater. I reckon we might just have another peated dram before grabbing a coffee, then a large glass of Perrier, followed by a large glass of Vittel (Nestlé, where’s the cheque?) … and then perhaps the infamous ‘53’.
SGP: 556 - 87 points. |
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Ruadh Mhor 11 yo 2011/2023 (54.9%, WhiskyFacile, refill bourbon hogshead, 335 bottles)
This one’s bottled by A.D. Rattray for WhiskyFacile in Italy. Got to love that note on the label: ‘Distilled to be Ruadh Mhor at Glenturret Distillery’. Brilliant, isn’t it? Colour: white wine. Nose: a bit less peaty, a bit fruitier, mainly on green apple and equally green pear. There’s also a rather pronounced green and black olive note, which I find thoroughly delightful—it’s quite something, really. With water: same impression. A touch of damp earth creeps into the background. Mouth (neat): much the same! A wonderful burst of energy with those olives still very much at the fore. With water: seriously, did they add olives to this? Lovely salinity and, as Romain, the famed sommelier at Lalique (the restaurant), might say, beautiful verticality. Finish: same again. Super precise, olives, lemon, apple, smoke. One must bow to it. Comments: on par with the excellent 2010.
SGP: 565 - 87 points. |
Alright, as we said, coffee, Perrier, Vittel... see you with a brand-new palate after the smoky ones. |
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Glenturret ‘1953 24 Hours Winner’ (42.3%, OB, Jaguar C-Type 70th Anniversary, 220 bottles, 2023)
Right, this one's a bit tricky. Despite the name, it's not from 1953, but rather a vatting of five casks, with a minimum age of 32 years—so more accurately a 32-year-old. Comprising four oloroso hogsheads and one PX hogshead, but no old solera casks in sight. Colour: gold. Nose: simply superb. Vineyard peaches, wildflower honey, ripe apples, papaya, and mango, with a definite nod towards a 30-year-old Sauternes (like 1st Cru Classé Lafaurie Peyraguey, same owners as Glenturret) before shifting to soft pine, sweet resins, sugared vegetables, and a lovely orange sauce (the kind you'd serve with duck, naturally). It’s a wonderfully ‘gastronomic’ nose, which will surprise no one. Mouth: a perfect reflection of the nose, but with more oomph than expected. Honey, wax, peaches, apricots, sultanas, and little cinnamon biscuits. That faint pine bud note is still present, along with a touch of liquorice wood. Finish: not overly long but well-balanced by citrus and orange blossom. A delightful honeyed aftertaste lingers. Comments: you'll have noticed I’ve carefully avoided any cheap mechanical metaphors.
SGP:661 - 92 points. |
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September 11, 2024 |
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Fettercairn in great numbers
About twenty-five years ago, Old Fettercairn aka Fettercairn was scarcely available, and its reputation was maybe a wee tad mediocre. No amount of rebranding seemed capable of turning things around. |
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However, as they say, a rising tide lifts all boats, and the owners took full advantage of this to bring the brand back into the spotlight, notably thanks to the spirit’s bold character and the drive of Master Blender (and of the Universe), Richard Patterson, aka The Nose. So much so that today we’ve decided to try and set a world record—the most different Fettercairn whiskies reviewed in a single post (though not necessarily in one tasting session, we’re not mad). Are you ready? |
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Fettercairn 16 yo (46.4%, OB, 2023)
The 2022 edition had been rather excellent, so expectations are high. Colour: gold. Nose: that unmistakable walnut cake and sweet mustard character comes through beautifully, joined by bitter oranges and an unexpected coastal touch – oysters, of all things! Hints of tar and rubber are present, but far less than in older releases, and in any case, that’s part of Fettercairn’s charm. Mouth: rich, honeyed, thick, and delightfully spicy, with a pleasing firmness. Chestnut cream, more nuts, a touch of earth, a light salinity, and perhaps once again, a cheeky oyster. It’s really very good, though one might suspect some of this richness comes from rather exuberant casks. Finish: long, turning peppery, yet still salty and honeyed, with notes of honey-lemon biscuits. There’s a return of that earthy element in the aftertaste. Comments: for me, this has become one of the finest middle-aged official bottlings around, and there aren’t that many at this level, if you ask me. Softer compared to the 2022 batch, with a touch more bitterness. A great start.
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
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Fettercairn 2014/2022 ‘Warehouse 2 Batch 004’ (48.8%, OB, bourbon and Hungarian oak)
These warehouse stories don’t always convince, but never mind. This one contains 6% Hungarian oak (wow!), which is essentially cheaper European oak, but as it’s petraea, it’s not half bad. Colour: white wine. Nose: barley sugar and the sweetness of bourbon, with vanilla cream, then a lovely floral touch of geranium and jasmine. Caraway and green walnut remind us we’re still in Fettercairn territory. Mouth: no, this is very good indeed, and I promise you could easily mistake it for Ben Nevis. It’s fantastic that they’ve allowed the distillate (very bold, let’s admit) to shine through, despite the use of active wood. I think it’s brilliantly done – they just need packaging that feels a bit more 2024, though. Right, not my business. Finish: long, with notes of walnuts, sweet mustard, ripe apples, clove, and a hint of juniper. Comments: it’s better than Batch 1 from the same warehouse, those warehouses are something else! Though it still sits slightly in the shadow of the magnificent 16-year-old.
SGP:562 - 86 points. |
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Fettercairn 2014/2023 ‘Warehouse 14 Batch 001’ (51.2%, OB, bourbon and Scottish beer)
And here we go, Warehouse No. 14. But how many warehouses do they have at Fettercairn? This bottle is said to include three types of Scottish beer – pale ale, dark ale, and stout. Incredible. Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s sweeter, younger in spirit, with notes of apple and quince jelly, barley, banana, even a bit of papaya… Could it be the yeasts from those Scottish beers doing their magic? With water: it tightens up a bit, but that’s not a bad sign. A well-mannered dram, we might say. Hints of grist and limestone linger. Mouth (neat): really very good, with more lemony notes. Pink grapefruit and a touch of sage. With water: it’s really very good – I’m repeating myself, but it is! Cloved orange zest and roasted pistachios. You get the idea… Finish: fairly long, very clean for a Fettercairn, though not without a bit of texture. A return of honeyed mustard and walnuts in the aftertaste. Comments: there’s nothing more satisfying than watching a distillery evolve like this. Let me remind you, twenty years ago, my friends wouldn’t touch it, by and large.
SGP:552 - 87 points. |
This time, it might not be as easy for the IBs... |
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Fettercairn 10 yo 2011/2021 (47.5%, Carn Mor, bourbon barrel, 1244 bottles)
This one should be entirely natural. Colour: white wine. Nose: pears and porridge, with touches of cardboard, fresh wood, and plaster. And, most notably, a whole stein of Weissbier. A hint of bitter almond and the usual mustard lurking in the background. Mouth: ultra-typical, indeed. Once again, walnuts, mustard, bitter almonds, a touch of earth… Then it shifts towards cider apples and lemon zest. A lovely ‘nervous’ austerity here. Finish: long, turning peppery. Lemon peel, pepper, then a bit more sweetness coming through. Comments: very, very close to the distillate, and in that sense, rather wild. Nice bitterness.
SGP:461 - 84 points. |
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Fettercairn 2009/2022 (50.6%, Liquid Art, 140 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: very much in the same style as its predecessor, though this one carries a bit more cask influence, lending it a touch more roundness, but it remains austere, distinctive, with a mustardy edge and packed with green walnuts, sourdough, and a whiff of old newspaper. There’s also a hint of bitter apples in the background. With water: it becomes chalkier, earthier, in other words, even more Fettercairn. Mouth (neat): this time we’re edging closer to the excellent official bottlings, with a lovely body and a salty-bitter-fruity mix, some honey, and amusing notes of white asparagus, all followed by the signature Fettercairn pepper. With water: very good indeed, with apples, mustard, green tea, bitter almonds, and walnut wine. Finish: long, more mineral, though there’s a hint of olive oil. Comments: top-notch, though it makes you wonder, which warehouse did this one come from? Just kidding.
SGP:562 - 86 points. |
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Fettercairn 15 yo 2007/2023 (53.5%, Cadenhead, Rum Cask Matured, 240 bottles)
It’s true that Cadenhead bottles some lovely rums, so they’ve probably got a few empty casks on hand to fill with malt. Colour: white wine. Nose: this is quite unexpected, we start with even more porridge and fresh morning bread dough, alongside green walnuts and the ever-present mustard, before a surprising Jamaican-like twist of tar, overripe bananas, and a touch of seawater sneaks in. With water: the original distillate takes charge again, so back to the walnuts and co. Mouth (neat): perhaps less precise than others, but possibly more complex. The walnuts are now smoked, coated in tar, and drenched in a sort of salty, honeyed molasses. With water: it’s a lively tango, reminding me of a Martinican rum aged in an Islay cask, the reverse situation, which also worked quite well (surprisingly). Finish: long, more lemony and maritime. A bit of pepper and tar in the aftertaste. Comments: there’s almost a double-Fettercairn character to this at times. Nicely done.
SGP:562 - 85 points. |
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Fettercairn 14 yo 2007/2022 (54.4%, Oxhead Whisky Company, Singapore, amontillado hogshead, cask #201506)
Colour: gold. Nose: this one leans more towards oils—rapeseed, sunflower, sesame—though the familiar notes of cardboard, chalk, and fresh ink (new book) are also back. There’s even a touch of vegetables, cabbage, leek... which I think can be quite ‘Fettercairn’ as well. With water: the distillate’s walnuts and the amontillado’s walnuts are thick as thieves. Lots of cement and chalk too. Mouth (neat): pure Fettercairn, almost to the point of seeming peaty. Plenty of paprika, pepper, lemon, and once again, cardboard, mustard, black radish, mead, with a slight soapy edge. With water: apple juice emerges, with some gin-like notes that verge on soapiness (not huge gin fans here). Finish: long, compact, and a bit eccentric. Quite the character. The mustard and walnuts continue to sing loudly. Comments: another wild one.
SGP:562 - 84 points. |
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Fettercairn 10 yo 2011/2022 (54.6%, Best Dram, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #800355, 220 bottles)
We quite like these labels—you could hardly be less flamboyant. In these AI-dominated times, it’s a bit of a relief. Colour: white wine. Nose: almost nothing at first—just a trickle of limestone water, the faintest hint of apple juice, and a touch of grapeseed oil… and that’s it. You really couldn’t be less exuberant, especially for a Fettercairn. We’re into that. With water: more body now, with devil’s sauce, honey, and walnut cake making an appearance. Mouth (neat): ultra-precise. Barley, paraffin, bitter almonds, walnut oil, horseradish, and a splash of seawater. With water: perfect. Now we’re in Ben Nevis territory. Finish: same. A lovely acidic touch, with lemon juice and Muscadet. Comments: a young Ben Nevis in high-precision mode. Oops, sorry, a Fettercairn.
SGP:562 - 87 points. |
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Fettercairn 12 yo 2008/2021 (52.9%, Whisky-Fässle, barrel)
It’s true, we don’t always need loads of details and superlative adjectives on our malt labels. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: well, this is very, very close to the previous one. A precious modesty, with a bit of apple, rubber, chalk, and sunflower oil. With water: wax paper and a hint of Barbour grease… Mouth (neat): absolutely delightful! Various kinds of apples, a touch of lemon, a drop of mead, tar liqueur, green pepper, and the classic duo of green walnuts and mustard. The texture is fairly oily, as always. With water: sweeter this time, little agave candies, mild pepper, and a bit of mandarin. Finish: indeed, a bit oilier and sweeter, though nowhere near what you’d call a sweet finish. Well, you get the idea. Comments: this is just so good.
SGP:552 - 86 points. |
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Fettercairn 16 yo 2006 (54.7%, Malt, Grain & Cane, Barbados rum cask, Cranes)
A 6-month finish in a Foursquare barrel. If it was one of their ‘single blends’, that shouldn’t have caused too much trouble for such a Fettercairn. Colour: pale gold. Nose: yes, it’s in line with the rest—slightly overripe apples, walnuts, ink, tar, old paper, mustard… In short, all is well, madame la marquise (as the old French song goes). With water: white chocolate! Could you get more delightfully nostalgic? Mouth (neat): 87 points. Wait, we’re going too fast. Walnuts, radish, mustard, green tea, sorrel, oil, lime… It’s just perfect. With water: doesn’t need much water. A touch of bitter oranges. Finish: medium length, a bit rounder now. Almond milk and oranges, with the ever-present mustardy note. Comments: we could debate for hours about whether or not to add water. And the value of such commentary (indeed, S.).
SGP:552 - 87 points. |
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Fettercairn 10 yo 2012/2023 (58.16%, Or Sileis, hogshead, cask #DL15976, 131 bottles)
The structure of this cask number for Taiwan points to a Douglas Laing origin (well done, Sherlock). In any case, our dear friends over there seem even more cat-crazy than us, which hardly seems possible. Lucky cat? Colour: white wine. Nose: back to pure Fettercairn, packed with walnuts, plaster, mustard, and little sour apples. Amusing hints of bottarga. With water: wet chalk, clay, slate, and fresh radishes. Mouth (neat): simple yet magical. Green apple, walnuts, radish, earth, turmeric, and a drop of seawater. The precision of a true Swiss watch. With water: I absolutely adore this one. To be clear, I loved all the others as well. Finish: whoops, wait, it turns slightly sweet. Candy sugar and marmalade. Remember, the devil’s always in the finish. Comments: jokes aside, another excellent young Fettercairn.
SGP:652 - 86 points. |
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Fettercairn 12 yo 2009/2021 (57%, Whisky Peter, hogshead + first fill bourbon barrel, cask #800300)
I love these 'amateur' labels that look like they were made on an Atari or a Commodore. At least, that’s how they seem, and it’s absolutely charming. Colour: white wine. Nose: similar, of course. Cider apples, green walnuts, mustard, chalk, paraffin—you know the tune. With water: ah, that young Burgundy Chardonnay vibe, all about the limestone… Unstoppable. Mouth (neat): so good! Green apples, chalk, walnuts, beeswax, liquorice, horseradish… With water: now this is fun, beyond grapefruit I’m also getting pickled samphires. Or am I dreaming? Finish: fairly long and simply perfect. Lemon paraffin and chalk in all their glory. Comments: it seems all these young Fettercairns hover between 85 and 87 points in my little book. Such consistency is rare, and of course, a sign of very high quality. With all due modesty.
SGP:652 - 87 points. |
I think we're going to stop with the younger Fettercairns, anyway they're all pretty fantastic. Let's see if we can find one or two older ones to wrap up this session, which in the end wasn't as extreme or unconventional as we initially thought. |
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Fettercairn 22 yo (47%, OB, +/-2024)
We tried the 22-year-old four years ago and rather enjoyed it, but here we have a recent batch, so purely for science, we’ll give it another go. Colour: gold. Nose: very mustardy and bitter on the nose, once again marked by green walnuts and coal dust, followed by peppermint and orange peel. To be honest, we quite like this. After a minute or two, aubergine and green propolis join the mix. Mouth: this isn't an easy whisky; there’s that pronounced bitterness again, with plenty of green pepper, bitter oranges, paprika, and that very earthy character so typical of Fettercairn. Naturally peppered mushrooms, a bit like some boletes. We love it. Finish: it remains somewhat extreme in profile, with loads of green and black pepper. Comments: as they say, it doesn’t take many prisoners, but it’s rather spectacular, perhaps even more so than the earlier batches. If they ever made it cask strength, I reckon you’d need a firearms licence to own a bottle. I still love it.
SGP:472 - 88 points. |
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Fettercairn 27 yo 1995/2022 (61.3%, Whisky Sponge, refill hogshead, 174 bottles)
The strength of Angus’s Whisky Sponge (and of the following ranges), beyond the obvious quality of the spirits, was lying in the utterly singular and inimitable nature of what we might call its 'brand environment' – a strong personality and a fearless, unconstrained expression, which is a rare find in such a conservative Scotland (yes, indeed). But enough of that personal drivel, let’s taste this one. Mind you, an old Fettercairn isn’t necessarily better than a young one, just saying. Colour: bright straw. Nose: well, the youthful tension here is replaced by the sheer power of the alcohol percentage. Strangely enough, the result is incredibly similar – chalk, apple peels, lemon zest, yellow melon, shoe polish, sourdough, fresh cement… With water: fresh focaccia and apple juice. Admirable, but still feels ‘young’. Mouth (neat): almost oily, yet packed with lemon essence and a riesling concentrate, if such a thing existed. Watch out for the alcohol! With water: it becomes gentler, but more complex, with pastry notes, roasted pistachios, nougat, lemon tarte, drops of verbena liqueur and, above all, genepy, putty, and orange marzipan. You’d almost think this drop came not from Scotland but from, say, Salzburg. Finish: lovely length, very elegant. Comments: this Fettercairn demands your full attention, but it’s well worth it. Superb, given the vintage.
SGP:652 - 89 points. |
One last one, and so much for the Fettercairn world record – we’ve bitten off more than we can chew, once again. |
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Fettercairn 31 yo 1990/2022 (42%, Skene, American oak hogshead, cask #648086)
Skene may be a rather discreet house, but they’ve been releasing some remarkable bottlings, with a pleasantly old-school vibe, which is increasingly a virtue in these days of sometimes somewhat ‘fake’ and, above all, conformist modernity. Colour: straw. Nose: where have these old Fettercairns been hiding? Bursting with glorious whiffs of farmhouse cider, natural Riesling, Chardonnay from Jura and Savoie, and even a touch of Petite Arvine from Valais while we're at it. It’s not often we find ourselves this close to wine, but remember the rule of Leerdam cheese – the less there is, the more there is (*). Mouth: magnificent white wine. I’m barely joking. Actually, I’m not joking at all. Lovely fresh oak, with the tiniest hint of coconut and the finest vanilla, followed by limestone and a myriad of delicate flowers and herbs – borage, for instance. Finish: not overly long, but simply perfect. Tangerines and chocolate mint right at the end. Comments: where on earth did this come from? Even the ABV is spot on. If you find a bottle, you know what to do.
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
Just to realise how far we've come, in 2003 I tasted the brand-new Fettercairn 12 yo '1824' (40%, OB). I didn't write a tasting note, but I gave it a modest score of 70/100. It's true that the fact 1824 was also the year of Macallan, and that this was starting to be marketed, really made me question whether it was appropriate to use it for Fettercairn. But that was 21 years ago, and nowadays, we surely wouldn't make such a fuss about it. |
(*) The more cheese there is, the more holes there are, and the more holes there are, the less cheese there is. This could be rephrased as: 'the less wine is added to a malt, the more that malt can showcase the qualities of a fine wine, and the more wine there is (finishes, etc.), the less that's the case. Anyway, let's move on. |
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September 10, 2024 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today some of the craziest recent Lagavulins
It's always a pleasure to taste Lagavulin, even if just two at a time. We'll start with the oldest one, as it has the lowest alcohol content, by far.
Iain McArthur (Diageo)
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Lagavulin 31 yo 1991/2023 (45.6%, OB, Cask of Distinction, selected by Sebastian Jaeger for GourmetPool, fresh-charred American oak hogshead, cask #6498, 213 bottles)
A cask destined for Germany, though these bottles have surely crossed many borders by now. No need to introduce the 1991s, but what’s particularly intriguing here is the cask, far from the hefty sherry types. Colour: pale white wine (remarkably). Nose: ah, we’ve landed squarely in the heart of Lagavulin. It’s like being locked inside the Port Ellen Maltings for a good three days. I find heaps of cold and hot ashes, olives and capers, entire packets of nori, curries, roasted pistachios, dried kelp on the beach, miso, and even mussels in white wine and rollmops. There’s a distinctively intense shochu-like quality here, utterly mad and almost entirely devoid of fruit here. Mouth: adios, bye-bye, auf Wiedersehen. It’s as if this whisky has been matured in pure ashes (fill a jar with ashes, add new-make, wait). Only after a moment do the olives, smoked fish, Far Eastern soups, seawater, and the like come through. The precision and austere grandeur are extraordinary. Right then, let’s settle down. Finish: massive mezcal. Well, actually, massive Lagavulin, with a touch of fir wood. Comments: before this regenerated hogshead, could this baby have secretly spent time maturing in stone jars? You’d be hard-pressed to get closer to the pure distillate than this, and at over thirty years of age, no less.
SGP:377 - 94 points. |
Mr. Iain ‘Pinkie’ McArthur, the floor is yours… |
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Lagavulin 18 yo ‘Iain’s Farewell Dram’ (58.7%, OB, 2nd fill manzanilla, 212 bottles, 2023)
Pinkie’s retirement was akin to dismantling the remains of Dunyvaig or flattening the Paps of Jura—it’s left quite a mark. The choice of a 2nd fill manzanilla cask shows a level of intellectual brilliance that surpasses even that of Sharon Stone (though the resemblance stops there). Colour: gold. Nose: this is huge. There’s a pronounced ‘sulphurous’ quality that isn’t actually sulphur, if you catch my drift. A freshly extinguished beach fire, white truffles from Piedmont, green walnuts (thank you, manzanilla), wild mushrooms, whiffs of pickles in brine, and heaps of seaweed. Again, the fruit is incredibly discreet. With water: no changes whatsoever. Mouth (neat): for a 2nd fill, there’s still quite a lot of manzanilla influence, which is just as well—we’re fans of manzanilla, especially when En Rama. So, seawater, chalk, walnuts, mustard, radishes, oysters, and an avalanche of ashes. Dazzling, though this style does tend to divide opinions. Buying a bottle doesn’t exactly entitle you to master this liquid, does it? With water: again, little change. Perhaps even more smoked oysters and a true punch of salt, or more accurately, salinity. Finish: monstrously long. Salt, olives, vinegar, oysters, mustard, cigar ash, ‘sulphur’, and walnuts. Dry as a bone, with absolutely zero sweetness—there’s more sugar in a piece of granite. Comments: how many times can one retire in a career on Islay?
SGP:377 - 94 points. |
It's a tie. I have to say, we saw it coming. I believe these two bottles alone more than make up for the very slightly questionable tequila flavourings imposed upon this magical whisky that is Lagavulin. Just saying. |
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September 9, 2024 |
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Two little indie Knockdhu
In other words, some AnCnoc. It’s true that you don’t come across them too often these days, but we still make a point of sampling whiskies from all the distilleries, for the cause. On top of that, these two little Knockdhus are going to be ex-hogshead, so not "wineskies" like the many you see around these days (even though some of them are actually quite good).
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Knockdhu 17 yo 2006/2023 (46%, Hunter Laing, Hepburn’s Choice, refill hogshead, 360 bottles)
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: smoky right from the start! A whiff of carbon paper (remember that?) and ashes, even a bit of mustard, followed by strong fermentative notes—think baker’s yeast and a white beer from a fledgling craft brewery. There’s a hint of damp plaster too. Altogether, it’s rather singular, austere, and extremely close to the grain. Mouth: it feels young, but there’s an appealing simplicity, with raw ingredients like yeast and malted barley taking centre stage. Green apples come through next, with lemon and rhubarb stretching the whole thing taut like a bow. Just a faint touch of floral honey. Finish: fairly long, with mustard making a return, accompanied by fresh bread and under-ripe apples. Comments: this wild, natural style won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, that’s for sure. The cask seems to have been little more than a vessel here, and that’s probably for the best, though you might wonder if some wouldn’t have preferred it had spent three months in a Port or Cabernet Sauvignon seasoned cask. Hmm.
SGP: 362 - 85 points. |
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Knockdhu 10 yo 2013/2024 (52.3%, The Maltman, hogshead, cask #128, 295 bottles)
This one might be even more ‘au naturel’, though you wouldn’t guess that from its colour… Colour: deep yellow gold. Nose: toasted white bread, malt, a few roots, scones, and hints of turnip and celery. It’s austere, for sure not overly exuberant, but that’s quite appealing. With water: it wakes up, bringing in notes of candle wax and mandarin peel. Mouth (neat): much more presence on the palate than on the nose, with a real burst of citrus, plus touches of horseradish, radish, and mustard again… With water: not many changes. There’s also a hint of garden cress. Finish: nice and long, with a saline touch, more of those rooty notes, and radishes of all kinds in the aftertaste. Comments: I don’t see why this would score any differently. A very good Knockdhu, broad and natural. The mandarin and radish duo works superbly, not improbable at all.
SGP: 451 - 85 points. |
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September 8, 2024 |
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