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December 13, 2024 |
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Recent names, some with bravos
Here are a few new names, chosen completely at random… Let’s see what we come up with. |
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Isle of Harris 'The Hearach First Fill Oloroso Matured' (46%, OB, 2024) 
After mastering the art of their marvellous core batches, the good folks at Harris have treated us to this full Oloroso expression. A logical step, wouldn’t you say? Colour: golden, which is comforting to see. Nose: it’s like the classic Hearach but draped in a layer of dark chocolate and a drizzle of walnut wine, with a whiff of Italian bitters—Cynar, Amaro, that sort of thing. Wonderfully done here; it lends a touch of wildness, even a faintly gamey side (wild boar terrine, if you like). Is there wild boar on Harris? Mouth: the same sentiments carry through. Think of the standard Hearach with an extra helping of chilli-spiked chocolate and walnut wine. A subtle mustardy note emerges, always underpinned by that saline quality, and dare I say, it feels even more ‘Fort William’ than its elder sibling. Hints of tar, carbon, motor oil, and a smudge of pencil eraser kind of round things out. Finish: much the same story, with a cracking dryness. Chilli and stout linger in the aftertaste. Comments: clever stuff, this. The Oloroso complements the distillate beautifully, never overstepping its mark. I was ready to be slightly less impressed—wrongly so, as it turns out. Who said, "yet again"?
SGP: 362 - 88 points. |
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Roseisle 12 yo ‘The Origami Kite 2’ (55.6%, OB, Special Release 2024, first fill and refill bourbon) 
We quite enjoyed the first edition last year (WF 85). I remember visiting the distillery just as it was firing up for the first time—quite the spectacle. Back then, everyone thought it was a behemoth poised to dominate the scene, but it seems to have settled into a quieter role, with Glenfiddich and Glenlivet, among others, comfortably outstripping Roseisle’s capacity now. Colour: gold. Nose: a lovely, ‘small’ malt whisky, very well crafted, with no rough edges but staying close to the fundamentals—barley, sponge cake, ripe banana, cornflakes, hay, nougat, and a hint of mild ale. With water: a touch of white chocolate joins in, along with Golden Grahams and Fruit Loops. Now my kids are grown now, so the precise nuances of those cereals are fading in memory. Mouth (neat): absolutely delightful. Simple, but in no way a drawback, and with a more pronounced citrus note on the palate. The texture is lovely—thick and almost oily. With water: this is where it truly shines, delivering a perfect apple-and-lemon duet. Finish: fairly long, and consistent with the rest. Comments: loves a bit of water, this one. A very, very good malt whisky—balanced and approachable, though perhaps not particularly distinctive.
SGP: 551 - 86 points. |
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Arbikie (48%, OB, Highland Rye, single grain, 2024) 
A single-estate whisky, technically a ‘grain’ since it’s not a pure malt, made with a mash bill of 60% rye, 15% wheat, and 25% malted barley. We found the 2022 edition rather tricky (WF 69), but here we are again with a fresh palate and an open mind. Colour: gold. Nose: well, here we go—rustic toasted country bread, pumpernickel, sprouted seeds, poppy seed loaf, and a touch of grapefruit to tie it all together. A charming nose. Mouth: yes, it works. Still a bit woody, but the turmeric and ginger notes stand out boldly, giving it an intriguing aged-gin character that’s rather effective. Once again, citrus steps in to try to harmonise things and prevent the wood from dominating the conversation. Finish: fairly long, fresh, with citrus, juniper, coriander seed, mustard, and even a hint of radish. Comments: I think the earlier batches had a sweetness that’s gone now, and I believe they’ve made real progress with this rye whisky. Europe is awash with ryes these days, so it’s only natural more Scots are joining the party.
SGP: 550 - 75 points. |
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Arbikie ‘Artist Edition 1’ (46%, OB, Francis Boag Edition, single grain, casks #104 + 108 + 114 + 115, 1,200 bottles) 
Made with Concerto barley along with carefully selected wheat and rye, this one has been ‘enhanced’ with Calvados casks, which does detract a bit from the whisky’s ‘local’ character—but hey, it’s a free world, isn’t it? The price is steep (£200), though you do get a limited edition print from the artist to sweeten the deal. Colour: gold. Nose: beautifully fresh and, surprisingly, easier and fruitier than the core release. Notes of hazelnut bread, apricot, and pear mingle with hints of lavender and violet, giving it a distinctly Provençal vibe. The Calvados influence remains subtle, but the wood is a touch more assertive here. Mouth: yes, this is good—brightly citrusy and nicely spiced, with cumin, rosemary, black radish, and that familiar juniper-and-coriander duo. There’s also a drizzle of honey, adding a delicate sweetness. Finish: fairly long, with a noticeable woodiness. Ginger and cinnamon take the lead, followed by a firm note of bitter orange that dominates the aftertaste. Comments: I really like this edition. And anyway, it’s always worth supporting artists in a world that seems increasingly… Trumpian.
SGP: 650 - 79 points. |
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Holyrood (60%, OB, PX hogshead, cask #89, 232 bottles, 2024)
As you may know, Holyrood is all about the yeasts, and this time they’ve used DY379, DY502, and Bollicine wine yeast—the latter being similar to champagne yeast, famed for its efficiency and aggressiveness. Fun fact: the last time I distilled honey, I had to use champagne yeast as it’s about the only thing that can ferment honey, given how naturally resistant it is. Experts say that Bollicine "enhances aromas of the terpenic type, adds freshness, and gives a light citrus note—excellent for Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio." Well, this isn’t Chardonnay—it’s barley. Colour: gold. Nose: Holyrood’s new makes are usually my favourites, but this works well enough. Loads of marrons glacés, orange cake, Jaffa cake, pink grapefruit, and thankfully, no trace of Pinot Grigio - naturally. With water: freshly cut vegetation, flowers in a vase, faint hints of diluted Thai sauce, and a touch of prune. Mouth (neat): quite a feisty little beast—earthy, a bit aggressive, and leaning towards slightly acidic elements, but at 60%, what else can you expect? With water: much the same. Overripe plums and strawberries show up. Finish: it’s fine. Comments: I’d love to try this in its natural state, without the slightly clumsy influence of one of those miserable PX casks that seem to have infiltrated all of Scotland, even up to Orkney. But I’m just repeating myself, aren’t I?
SGP: 530 - 78 points. |
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Glasgow Distillery 5 yo 2018/2024 (61.1%, OB, Keeble Cask Company, Fragrant Drops Collection, fresh bourbon barrel, cask #193, 232 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: a cheerful bundle of little sweets and a splash of tutti-frutti eau-de-vie, likely amplified by the sky-high strength. With water: still sweet, retaining that light, eau-de-vie character. Not quite as ‘fragrant’ as the name might suggest, in my humble opinion. Mouth (neat): much the same neat—brimming with little sweets, lemon drops, agave candies (the ones with the worm inside), and a splash of homemade limoncello. With water: shifts towards simple syrups, green tea, and herbal tisanes, with the faintest whisper of tropical fruits emerging from the fresh barrel. Finish: not very long but pleasantly fruity. Comments: a charming little drop for your hip flask. Perfect for slipping into a coffee for a proper Kaffee-Schnaps that still lets the coffee shine. It’s not Bowmore 1964 yet, but it’s thoroughly enjoyable and dangerously drinkable.
SGP: 441 - 78 points. |
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Isle of Harris 5 yo 2018/2024 ‘The Hearach’ (59.7%, OB, single cask, for LMDW Foundations, bourbon ex-Heaven Hill, cask #1789, 247 bottles)
Yes, I know we’ve already had a Harris today, but so what? I must say, it’s quite dashing to reserve cask #1789 for France (it’s the Bastille year, after all—don’t tell me that’s a coincidence!). Colour: white wine. Nose: the peat feels much more assertive than just ‘15ppm’. This nose is intensely smoky, saline, sooty, dry, and packed with ashes—though the high ABV might be amplifying things. With water: classic notes of raw wool, chalk, mud, flour, and a touch of brine. Mouth (neat): smoked apple, peppered seawater, and chilli-spiked lemon—it’s all going swimmingly. With water: tricky to dilute, as it seems to falter sharply around 50% ABV for some reason. That said, at 51%, it’s spot-on, with lovely green olives tossed in ‘on the house.’ Finish: long, saline, and citrusy, still carrying those green olives and, believe it or not, a hint of pastis. Comments: for me, much like with, say Springbank, I still prefer the simpler entry-level expression as my go-to. That said, this is excellent, maybe just a touch demanding to savour properly.
SGP: 464 - 85 points. |
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Inchdairnie ‘Finglassie’ 7 yo 2017/2024 ‘Peated’ (57.7%, James Eadie, 2nd fill oloroso finish, cask #374468, 125 bottles) 
If everyone starts using 2nd fill casks for finishings, we’re going to agree by default—although it might all start feeling a tad convoluted. Colour: gold. Nose: used motor oil, petrol, roasted almonds, charcoal, damp earth, and… equatorial rainforest (wait, what?). With water: metal notes, silver cutlery, loose change, old copper, and the engine of a vintage car—practically steampunk in a glass. Mouth (neat): insane stuff—concentrated pinewood, wild pepper, Bündnerfleisch, and smoked ham cured over resinous logs. Is any of this even legal? The pepperiness is absolutely off the charts. With water: add coffee, snuff tobacco, and salted mint chocolate to the mix. Utterly bonkers, but in a way, quite loveable. Perhaps it’s time we all saw a therapist—yes, I know we’ve been saying that for twenty years here. Finish: long, mentholated, chocolatey, and smoky. Comments: I feel the brilliant folks at James Eadie ought to include an instruction manual with bottles like this. In multiple languages, please—Mandarin, Russian, Alsatian, you name it. Honestly, this one defies scoring.
SGP: 375 – (on hold) points. |
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December 12, 2024 |
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Our near-monthly dose of Glen Moray
We always enjoy tasting Glen Moray. Perhaps it’s because 25 years ago, it was considered a very ‘budget’ malt, not particularly revered, and yet some rather incredible work has been done since then. Of course, some of their whiskies still bear the mark of slightly unconventional cask choices, but sometimes that’s what makes it fun. And let’s be honest, fun is what life’s all about, is it not. |
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Glen Moray-Glenlivet 16 yo 2007/2024 (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, bourbon, 2024)
A May release. Colour: white wine. Nose: lovely, vanilla coffee at first, followed by garden apples and pears, then jellybeans and sugary Easter eggs. I know it’s not the season, but it more or less was when this little one first came out. Also, a hint of damp garden earth. This is very pleasant, easy-going, enjoyable, soothing, and well-balanced (enough adjectives, S.). Mouth: the jellybeans are back, joined by a touch of eucalyptus and a faint toothpaste note at the start, before moving into banana foam sweets. Not many malts display this profile—it brings to mind young Auchentoshans from 25 years ago. Remember the vaguely triangular labels? Finish: fairly long, with a hint of new-world chardonnay, light acacia honey, and a squeeze of lime. Comments: it does its job beautifully, with an almost childlike character (I mean that in the best possible way).
SGP: 641 - 85 points. |
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Glen Moray 21 yo ‘Port Wood Finish’ (46.3%, OB, Heritage, +/-2024) 
Not entirely sure when this batch was bottled, but the sample reached me quite recently. Colour: partridge eye, as the wine folks say. Nose: balanced and fairly light, with a touch of strawberry (but not too much), cherry (but not too much), and raspberry (again, not too much). Then there’s orange blossom, fresh kougelhopf, and—if we’re being fancy—some notes of pasteis de nata. Mouth: a few minor clashes at the start (grape versus grain, stalk against husk), but things quickly come together under the guidance of biscuits and brioches with little red fruits. It’s reminiscent of Lyon’s pralines, which, as we all know, have nothing to do with either Portugal or Scotland. Finish: medium in length, slightly winey, and firmly on crème de cassis. Comments: it’s good. I’m usually wary of Port-finished whiskies, but this one was well executed, even if it leans quite ‘ruby’.
SGP: 641 - 83 points. |
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Glen Moray 11 yo 2008/2024 (54.6%, Watt Whisky, oloroso hogshead finish, 318 bottles)
The head of Whiskyfun’s Mathematics Department pointed out some discrepancy in the figures, but honestly, who cares? Colour: pale gold. Nose: oh yes, this is lovely—chestnuts and walnuts mixed with sunflower and peanut oil, followed by fresh apples and morning raisin rolls. Nothing to fault. With water: an entire truckload of fresh nuts. Mouth (neat): excellent, with a rich, pâtisserie-like fruitiness, then honeyed blood oranges with a dash of white pepper. A proper flavour carnage—and “carnage” is positive in English too, is it not? With water: now it’s all about the creams—vanilla cream, orange crème brûlée, crema catalana… Too bad “Andalusian cream” isn’t a thing unless we’re talking sherry, right? Finish: medium length, leaning towards soft pepper. A slight greenness in the aftertaste, balanced with buttery cream. Comments: superb. I hope the honourable bottlers won’t mind me saying so, but I can’t help wondering if this wouldn’t be the perfect whisky for flambéing prawns.
SGP: 551 - 87 points. |
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Glen Moray 32 yo 1990-1991/2024 (51.8%, Whisky Sponge, Decadent Drinks, refill hogshead + refill sherry hogshead, 304 bottles) 
I believe this is the penultimate edition of Whisky Sponge (#99), and it seems clear that The Sponge has quite the fondness for Glen Moray. Colour: full gold. Nose: it’s ripe, juicy melon taking immediate control, followed by dainty whispers of sawdust and grated coconut. It then unfolds into an intricate dance of aged white wines and venerable liqueurs mellowed by time—Chartreuse, pine, myrtle, a hint of Bénédictine, that sort of thing. With water: no dramatic shifts, but a touch of fresh putty or soft modelling clay appears in the mix. Mouth (neat): well, this is just about flawless. Lively and perfectly balanced, with zippy green apples, a peppery tang, subtle beer-like notes, a bit of cider, and even a faint yeasty, chalky twist. Remarkably, I’d even swear there’s a hint of Savagnin in there— if you’ll indulge me. With water: beautifully nuanced, with soft honeys, aged sweet wines (a whisper of vintage Pinot Gris), and a touch of mint tisane though without some mint’s sharpness. Finish: not hugely long but wonderfully balanced, with aged dessert wines, honeys, and meads—all light, with no cloying heaviness. Quite the opposite, in fact. Comments: delicate and profoundly gentle (aside from a vigorous initial attack on the palate). Just give it time and use quality water. Top-drawer stuff—cheers to the independents!
SGP: 551 - 91 points. |
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December 11, 2024 |
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Caol Ila in Abundance, Part Two
Here we are again with a second and final batch of Caol Ila. We’re once more expecting very close scores, as Caol Ila is such a consistent and flawless malt. All of this, while keeping in mind the rather incredible and unexpected 2007 Caol Ila at only 42.4% from Cut Your Wolf Loose (WF 90).
Ad for some Rivesaltes, 1970s. Is the effect the same when you add it to a malt whisky? |
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Caol Ila 7 yo 2017/2024 (46%, Douglas Laing, Provenance, LMDW Foundations, Barbados rum finish, cask #DL18766)
One could gently mock this little creation, wondering why a young Caol Ila would need to be flavoured with rum in this way. But then, we remember often finding certain similarities between some ex-pot still rums and Islay’s peated malts. So perhaps it’s not such a forced marriage after all… Colour: white wine. Nose: this is a young CI with a fatter nose, slightly more rubbery, but also showing more diesel oil and olives, and consequently fewer purely coastal notes. Some lamp oil and a touch of tequila follow. Mouth: oysters with olives, lemon with mezcal, and a clearly tarry side. The salinity only grows stronger and begins to play around on your lips. Finish: I thought I might find the rounder, softer side of the rum, but no. Islay has more or less fully taken back control. Ultra-ripe pineapple notes linger in the aftertaste, though. Comments: a slightly tautological creation, as some might say, but undeniably very good. It seems as though the rum has toned down the immature edges of the baby CI a little.
SGP:566 - 85 points. |
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Caol Ila 17 yo 2007/2024 (54.2%, Maltbarn, sherry cask, 177 bottles)
Always those brilliant labels that remind us of our not-so-distant youth (oh yes). Colour: pale gold. Nose: this one is much more acetic at first, almost vinegary (cider vinegar), with also some impressive notes of bière de garde. Then come seawater, beach sand, oysters, apples, tar, and mercurochrome. It evolves, but not very quickly. With water: impeccable, on linseed oil and fresh paint. Mouth (neat): fruitier but also more mentholated, there’s more of an ultra-mojito vibe in this one than in the DL finished in rum. Very good, actually, with lovely bitterness too. With water: notes of bitter almonds and a hint of espresso coffee arrive. Very nicely dry. Finish: long, with plenty of ashes this time. The aftertaste remains very salty. Comments: a slight sharpness that I really like a lot.
SGP:457 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 11 yo 2013/2024 (55.4%, Lady of the Glen, Rivesaltes finish, 299 bottles)
Not particularly inspired by the Rivesaltes. The Rivesaltes appellation (1100ha) is located around Perpignan in French Catalonia, veeeery far from Islay. There are several types of Rivesaltes wines (amber, grenat, tawny, rosé…), but our Scottish friends never specify which casks they use—do they even know themselves? These are fortified sweet wines (VDN) where fermentation is stopped by adding neutral alcohol to retain some of the natural sugar. They also produce dry rancios through oxidative ageing. Colour: light gold. Nose: very fruity and sweet, reminding us of some Port Charlottes we’ve enjoyed. There’s not much room left for the distillate, let’s say. With water: a slight sulphury note, but not bothersome. Boiled Jerusalem artichokes. Mouth (neat): there’s no doubt it’s well-made, but it’s just very ‘trans’, giving the impression it could almost be a VDN fortified with an Islay peater. Now there’s an idea… With water: it navigates between the two worlds. Finish: long, trickier, ashy, sweet, and slightly sour all at once. Comments: I’m sure this slightly odd little dram has its aficionados. To each their own.
SGP:765 - 78 points. |
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Caol Ila 9 yo 2014/2024 (60.3%, The Whisky Exchange, The Seasons, Autumn, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #808)
Autumn? About time, as winter starts on December 21st. For once, we’re not too late… Colour: rich gold. Nose: oh, apples, ashes, fresh varnish, and equally fresh marzipan. Mozart Kugeln. And I swear I even detect hints of fresh mushrooms, just like on the label. But don’t worry, not a trace of mustiness. I really like this nose so far. With water: the varnish and almonds take centre stage, with a slightly American vibe. Of course, it’s bourbon… Mouth (neat): pow, a punch to the chin. Ultra-clean, wonderfully simple, candied lemon, ashes, smoke, an oyster, and a touch of glue. With water: the oak takes charge, but gracefully, and the candied lemon keeps it company. Finish: long, with a few spices, especially nutmeg, curry, and paprika. Smoky, of course. Comments: it’s amusing to see how a very active cask (or so it seems) can gently engage with a young peated malt. Quite a ‘creation’ (if you know what I mean). In the style of Dr. Bill.
SGP:567 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 9 yo 2015/2024 (54.9%, James Eadie, first fill amontillado European oak hogshead, cask #378487, 341 bottles)
We have fond memories of yesterday’s ex-palo cortado. I’ve always found good amontillados and the rarer palo cortados to be similar, though I haven’t drunk millions of them. Clearly, I should have tasted this one right after yesterday’s palo cortado—how embarrassing. Colour: light gold. Nose: this is much less marked by the sherry than yesterday’s, veering more towards manzanilla territory, with green apples, equally green walnuts, a hint of mustard seed, and then some salty touches that pair perfectly with this CI. It makes you wonder what comes from the whisky and what from the cask. Perfect continuum. With water: seawater, smoked fish, vin jaune. Mouth (neat): sweet Suzy, how good is this! Super salty, with the right acidity, nervy like a young colt, and packed with candied citrus. The fusion of cask and distillate is incredible, with an impressive proximity of flavours. With water: spiced and salted candied fruits. Finish: long, developing simply splendid bitterness. Comments: powerful but lighter than the palo cortado, less oxidative, just as brilliant, perhaps even a bit better. Do they produce magnums?
SGP:467 - 89 points. |
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Caol Ila 14 yo 2010/2024 (57%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, LMDW, oloroso sherry finish, cask #311752, 265 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: here we find the dry side of oloroso, somewhere between miso soup and walnut wine, carbon dust, sautéed porcini mushrooms, and then, little by little, coastal elements emerge, with shellfish and seaweed coming in waves (naturally, ha). With water: a platter of oysters with Tabasco and heavily toasted rye bread. Mouth (neat): a bit brutal, medicinal, and bitter like some old-school cough remedy, though the ethanol seems to be the main culprit. With water: indeed, our citrusy friends come to lift everything up, adding freshness and joy (don’t they?). Still, there’s a lingering sense of eucalyptus and honey cough lozenges. Finish: long and lemony. Pickled lemons and walnuts. Comments: a lot of adventure in this CI—it must have had a good fight early on during the finishing period, but the result is excellent, as expected.
SGP:466 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 12 yo 2011/2023 (50%, Hunter Laing, Old Malt Cask 25th Anniversary, manzanilla butt, 750 bottles)
These replica bottlings of the seminal Old Malt Cask series are really quite charming. Sony brought out their Walkman again too, didn’t they? As for the manzanilla cask, you can imagine how ex-ci-ted we are. Colour: pale gold. Nose: lovely, suave, with green walnuts, old apples, citron, seawater, a touch of rubber bands, and… manzanilla. Think La Gitana. With water: a beach campfire, with someone grilling sausages. Mouth (neat): some hints of spent matches at first, then a kind of walnut mustard mixed with seawater and ashes. Better than it might seem. With water: that light sulphury touch is still there, but it leads to chalk and peaty smoke. Finish: long, fairly sharp, with plenty of ashes and… personality. The sulphury note remains. Comments: quite a different beast in the end. A little odder than I would have thought but I still really like it.
SGP:356 - 83 points. |
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Caol Ila 11 yo 2013/2024 (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice, second fill sherry hogshead, autumn edition)
Once again, a release for autumn, so we’re on schedule—even if it’s already -7°C outside here at WF Alsace HQ. Colour: gold. Nose: classic, rather gentle, close to the OBs, with wafts of aniseed and mint, amaretti, ripe apples, and even hints of sour cherries in alcohol. The sherry is subtle but not entirely absent. Mouth: it feels stronger than just 48.5%, quite bitter and rough, to the point where you might want to add two and a half drops of water. With water: it works perfectly. A drop of pastis in seawater and lemon juice. Excellent tension. Finish: herbal cordials, with more vegetal tension than in typical CIs. Sour cherries return as well. Comments: don’t think a reasonable bottling strength should stop you from adding water.
SGP:467 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 17 yo 2007/2024 (56%, Halcyon Spirits, cask #306807, 273 bottles)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: the cask seems to have been very active, as plenty of cake and vanilla cream come to the fore at first, followed by wet stones, cooked peas, new tyres, a few whiffs of lilies (from at least fifteen metres away), and finally more classic Caol Ila notes: seawater, shellfish, a touch of tar… With water: ashes extinguished with seawater dominate. No complaints here. Mouth (neat): excellent, powerful, compact, with pepper, candied lemon, ashes, and seaweed. With water: pepper, salt, miso soup, ashes, and tar set the tone here. Very classic, very ‘Islay’; it feels a bit like being on the island’s southern coast. Finish: long, heavily ashy, with a hint of coal tar, and lemon bringing some zestiness to the aftertaste. A very, very faint, well the faintest touch of sulphur right at the end. Comments: a truly lovely beast.
SGP:567 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 1994/2005 (43%, Jean Boyer, recoopered hogshead, 400 bottles)
A small CI we had in stock, which I wanted to bring out as a tribute to our friend Jean Marie, former head of Jean Boyer, who left us far too soon. We had never formally tasted it before. As the back label explains, these ‘recoopered’ hogsheads can display notes close to new wood, particularly coconut for American oak or vanilla for European oak. Colour: white wine. Nose: a lot of freshness after twenty years in the bottle, with whelks, almonds, candle wax, sunflower oil, soft brine, and above all, very moderate peat. It’s particularly elegant, with great gentleness – as Jean Marie was. Mouth: much livelier on the palate, starting directly on green olives, then evolving towards boat fuel and white pepper. And those old-fashioned kippers. The 43% ABV never feels ‘too low’. Finish: surprisingly long and saline, also peppery. A touch of varnish, perhaps from that ‘recoopered’ oak, then a return of those green olives we adore so much. Comments: cheerio Jean Marie, what a magnificent little Caol Ila.
SGP:566 - 87 points. |
One last one, and this time we won’t pick it at random, especially after this avalanche of young Caol Ilas since yesterday. After all, we’re entering the festive season… |
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Caol Ila 31 yo 1983/2014 (48.7%, Signatory Vintage, hogshead, cask #5300, 248 bottles)
Colour: light gold. Nose: an ode to time, both the time spent in the cask and the time in the bottle, even if it’s just ten years. We’re treated to a rather sublime medley of syrups and herbal teas, flowers and small berries, all led by almonds and wild little black cherries. It’s an unfathomable subtlety, shaped by the interplay of molecules over the years. I’m almost certain that none of these aromas were present when this Caol Ila was, say, ten or twelve years old. In contrast, the smoke has vanished, swallowed by the whole or perhaps transmuted. You often find that in older Islay whiskies. Mouth: Oh, that’s it, game over—this is another dimension entirely. It’s brimming with minerals and herbs, oils and fats, and flavours for which we don’t even have analogies (which gives you a bit of a break, lucky you) ... Superb flavours that evoke nothing familiar, unknown substances, molecules never before tasted—possibly even a touch extra-terrestrial. In fact, some elements might remind one of the finest mezcals, and speaking of which, we really ought to do a full mezcal session on WF again—it’s been far too long. Finish: Superb vegetal and vinous freshness (think great white wines). Comments: what’s the point of resisting?
SGP:464 - 93 points. |
What a beautiful illustration of the work of time on a single malt whisky! These Caol Ilas age like fine wines, except that none ever really veer off course. In fact, I think I’ve never tasted one that was truly ‘out of line,’ and that’s saying something as we edge dangerously close to 900 Caol Ilas sampled here on little Whiskyfun.
It also reminds me of that miserable little joke worth about two pennies:
“Hey Alfred, it’s been ages since I last saw you!
- I know, I told my wife I was like fine whisky, getting better with age…
- And?
- She locked me in the cellar…”
I did warn you, didn’t I?
That’s enough Caol Ila for now, but at the start of the year, we’ll surely be tasting our 900th CI. |
(Thank you, Jean Marie and KC!) |
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December 10, 2024 |
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An Abundance of Caol Ila
Caol Ila remains the number one malt in terms of expressions tasted on WF. There are plenty of reasons for this, but one of the main ones is that it’s always a pleasure to try Caol Ila, simple as that. Let’s take a look at what we have, in no particular order. Note that we won’t be including any “secret” Caol Ilas today.
That said, it seems that along the way, we’ll also be tasting bourbon, palo cortado, PX, rum from Barbados, Rivesaltes, amontillado, oloroso, and manzanilla. Right.
Katrin Bremermann, 'No.2012-2020', enamel on waxed paper (artwork for the Caol Ila 'Artist Collective No 7.4') |
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Caol Ila 16 yo 2007/2023 (42.4%, Cut Your Wolf Loose, Cut Your Leftovers Loose, ex-American whisky, 80 bottles)
It seems only 80 bottles remained in the cask, and the intriguing ABV suggests another equally fascinating story behind this whisky. Colour: straw. Nose: absolutely delightful, light yet deep, with a style reminiscent of ‘Old Caol Ila’ from the late 1960s or early 1970s. Think ashes and coal, old paint pots, seaweed, and polished antique furniture, with a few whiffs of aged crème de menthe for good measure. It's almost like stepping into a whisky antiquarian’s treasure trove. Mouth: resins and ashes, oysters, and seawater take centre stage, followed by a distinct charred edge and bittersweet old liqueurs. Hugely impressive and no doubt a serious challenge if you were tasting this blind. Finish: long and incredibly salty, like a malt thinned with seawater. Comments: something remarkable must have happened in this cask—perhaps a tale involving angels.
SGP:467 - 90 points. |
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Caol Ila 11 yo ‘Ambrosial Feast’ (57.3%, OB, Special Releases 2024) 
This is a non-peated version of Caol Ila (sometimes referred to as ‘Highland Caol Ila’), now far rarer than it was some 15 years ago. Colour: gold. Nose: slightly vinegary at first, with perhaps a whisper of peat, before developing into notes of apple tart and honey. There’s a touch of shortbread and even a drop of beer in the background. With water: the barley shines through, along with a hint of mead and a touch of rubber. Mouth (neat): powerful, with a splash of apple vinegar and some pepper, followed by apple cake and a bitter herbal edge. With water: citrus fruits and pepper emerge, along with more cake and a trace of ginger. Finish: fairly long, rather spicy, leaning on peppery notes with a saline touch towards the end. Comments: not bad at all, but there are dozens of other Scottish distilleries producing this style of whisky. Somewhat anecdotal, really.
SGP:551 - 82 points. |
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Caol Ila 15 yo 2008/2024 (53.2%, The Whisky Show, Chris Bolton, 291 bottles)
Featuring TWE's excellent Chris Bolton on the label, this bottling promises to deliver. Colour: pale gold. Nose: classic Caol Ila, taut and vibrant but with a firm structure, unfurling notes of mint and lemon alongside hints of shellfish and fireplace smoke, with a delicate touch of mezcal. With water: a lovely combination of cake batter and verbena emerges, with a faint backdrop of fuel oil. Mouth (neat): absolutely excellent—no complaints here. Lemon, pepper, seawater, oysters, and slightly richer smoke than one might typically expect. With water: a perfect balance between all these elements, showcasing a rare blend of power and elegance. Finish: long and deeply satisfying. Truly, these are whiskies that are almost impossible to resist. Comments: superb—well done, Chris and gang (and the distillers in the first place, naturally).
SGP:557 - 89 points. |
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Caol Ila 8 yo 2015/2024 (43%, Signatory Vintage, LMDW, Artist Collective N°7.4, hogsheads, 6 casks, 2753 bottles)
Caol Ila, in my experience, is one of those malts that can be utterly brilliant even at lower strengths, and the folks at Signatory clearly know this very well. Colour: water, almost. Call it Islay water. Nose: I was right (yes, I’ll take that, thank you), this is superb. It immediately makes you want to grab some smoked salmon and crème fraîche to pair with this charming little Caol Ila, full of smoke, lemon, ashes, and fresh engine oil. Mouth: playful coffee notes add a bit of fun to the familiar salinity and smoke. Beware, this is dangerously drinkable. If you decide to enjoy it over ice, perhaps call your solicitor first and double-check the details of your will. Finish: it holds steady, with lime and freshly cut apples bringing an even more refreshing touch. Comments: caution, high risk—this bottle really needs a warning sticker.
SGP:557 - 87 points. |
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Caol Ila 10 yo 2011/2021 (56.4%, Ingelred, bourbon, cask #307971, 295 bottles)
– A tale of Vikings, it seems, though this isn’t Highland Park; it’s unmistakably Caol Ila. After all, Islay is brimming with Viking heritage anyway. Colour: almost white. Nose: well, well—juniper and fresh anise. If this is Viking-inspired, one might think of aquavit, no? But I must say, this spirit is thoroughly charming. With water: an avalanche of green apples appears. Mouth (neat): of course it’s pure, precise, surgical Caol Ila. Smoke, ashes, lemon, two whelks, and three oysters make an appearance. With water: a touch of coffee, tart apples, green pepper, and those ever-so-slightly rubbery ashes. Finish: long, sharp, salty, and pinpoint accurate. Comments: it’s a bit like the 2008 at 43%, but with (a lot) more punch.
SGP:557 - 87 points. |
These young Caol Ilas are simply unstoppable. They always remind me of the emotion one feels the first time they catch sight of the large stills through the bay window. In fact, it's very rare to come across a bad Caol Ila—or as someone once said, if it's bad, then it isn't Caol Ila. |
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Caol Ila 11 yo 2012/2024 (59.1%, Signatory Vintage, for Whisky Club Nantais, bourbon hogshead, cask #318264, 255 bottles)
A young Caol Ila bottled for true Breton enthusiasts (and yes, Nantes is Breton, don’t argue). Colour: Pale white wine. Nose: It's an absolute delight to dive into these young, crystal-clear Caol Ilas, where the distillate takes centre stage rather than the cask. And what a distillate it is! Here we have something almost akin to smoked cider apples grilled over charcoal with a lovely dash of peat and just a faint medicinal whisper of Mercurochrome. That said, do take note—it’s nudging 60%! With water: much the same, remaining wonderfully elemental and pure. Mouth (neat): utterly simple, and in this context, that’s a quality in itself. Green apple, green pepper, citrus zest, and heaps of smoke and tar. With water: softens slightly, bringing in ripe apples, a drizzle of honey, and a rounded nuttiness that envelopes the palate. There’s even a touch of mustard and a fino-like dryness lurking in the background. Finish: Long, saline, and maritime to the last drop. Comments: Proof that the word ‘basic’ can be a badge of honour. A superbly focused young Caol Ila, still playing in the big leagues.
SGP: 557 - 87 points. |
It feels a bit like one could enjoy about fifteen of these and still achieve the same high score, despite the variations. |
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Caol Ila 9 yo 2015/2024 (55.8%, James Eadie, Palo Cortado hogshead finish, for the UK, cask #378486, 356 bottles)
Palo Cortado and Amontillado are easily among the finest sherries for finishing whisky—aside from Manzanilla, but there’s precious little of that in finishing, alas. Colour: dark gold. Nose: a stroke of genius here. Polished wax, used motor oil, and smoked almonds. What a stunning marriage between Caol Ila and sherry. In my book PX can often spell disaster with peated whiskies, but Palo Cortado is just perfect. With water: exhaust fumes, tarmac, and the scent of new tyres—almost like certain young Port Ellens from days gone by. Mouth (neat): monstrously coherent, like chewing a cigar while sipping on a robust double espresso. With water: it becomes gentler, offering salted apple, oysters, crab, and even a touch of Alsatian Riesling that pairs remarkably well. Finish: dry, long, increasingly peppery, and utterly perfect, with a whisper of hydrocarbons and ash trailing on the aftertaste. Comments: if only everyone handled their finishings this well.
SGP: 467 - 88 points. |
By the way, coming soon on WF: around ten Port Ellens that have never been tasted before for WF. I promise, before Christmas. |
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Caol Ila 22 yo 2002/2024 (52.5%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, LMDW, refill sherry, cask #14600104, 241 bottles)
Gordon & MacPhail continue to showcase their mastery as both independent bottlers and seasoned whisky maturers, selecting exceptional casks and often nurturing them to brilliance. Colour: pale gold. Nose: quite different from others, and it’s not just the age. There’s much more subtlety, with notes of vegetable oils, pistachios, sunflower seeds, linseed oil, damp earth, chalk, and clay… But the hallmark Caol Ila base remains firmly intact—sea water, smoke, petrol, and even a whisper of acetone (in the tiniest doses). With water: ripe green apples make an entrance, adding a delightful brightness. Mouth (neat): an intriguing, slightly unexpected duality—on one side, salted caramels and coffee, on the other, seaweed smoke and beachside barbecue. Yet, it all comes together gracefully, tied up with fine black pepper. With water: a combination of apple tart and a touch of shellfish, keeping things playful. Finish: Long and, as one might expect, more mature and evolved. Comments: gentler and rounder than others, but also rather more complex. The peat has softened a bit, but the whisky retains a rather dazzling brilliance, as one would hope.
SGP: 555 - 88 points. |
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Caol Ila 12 yo 2010/2023 (52%, Goldfinch, Bodega series, 1st fill PX, 395 bottles)
Of course, the mention of 1st fill PX on a peated whisky is a bit frightening, but nothing is ever definitive, and the worst is never certain (Confucius – that’s right, S.). After all, it’s no worse than coffee-mustard or banana-mint. Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, this is a somewhat discreet PX, but as often happens, the pairing still brings out some fairly marked rubbery notes. Think new inner tubes and such. With water: not too bad, but unnecessary, I would say. Mouth (neat): honestly, it’s fine. You lose a bit of Caol Ila’s razor-sharp edge, and the raisins feel as out of place as my grandmother at a Taylor Swift gig, but yes, ‘it’s fine’. With water: we’re comparing this to James E.’s Palo Cortado. We shouldn’t have. Finish: not bad… Comments: yes, it’s not bad, but since Caol Ila isn’t exactly the rarest malt whisky, the enthusiast might want to turn to more rewarding expressions, as they used to say in whisky guides from the 1960s. I’d also point you towards the recent Aultmore 10 years from Goldfinch, a thousand times more to my taste.
SGP:666 - 78 points. |
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Caol Ila 14 yo 2008/2023 (55.3%, Oxhead, hogshead, cask #322483)
A playful label in the style of a replica, with a mention of the Port Askaig pharmacy. We’ve never seen a pharmacy in Port Askaig, but perhaps we didn’t look hard enough. Colour: white wine. Nose: this is a somewhat more delicate nose, bearing similarities to that of the G&M CC 22, particularly sunflower oil and linseed oil. Beach bonfires, sea water, and almonds (we mean the shellfish, of course) follow. I mean we call dog cockle ‘sea almond’ in France. In short, maybe not a CI that totally asserts itself right away. With water: wet chalk emerges, alongside the scent of a brand-new scarf from the marvellous Islay Woollen Mill. You know, the kind that itches your neck a little but looks very smart when you’re back home… Mouth (neat): oh, very good! Ultra-classic, peat, brine, pepper, lemon, ashes… With water: yes, straightforward, paraffin, lemon zest, almond milk, and plenty of salt. Finish: similar, a rather oily CI. Comments: a very fine intermediate CI with a gorgeous texture.
SGP:567 - 87 points. |
Alright, one last one; I think we’ll carry on tomorrow… |
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Caol Ila 17 yo 2006/2023 (55.1%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 204 bottles)
I really like Cadenhead’s new designs—before, it felt like the 1960s; now, it’s more like the 1940s, ha. Remember, ‘don’t preserve the ashes but keep the fire alive,’ etc., etc., etc… Colour: white wine. Nose: a rather discreet Caol Ila, a gentleman, with tweed and with a touch of soot, then hints of melon and vineyard peach. You might think it came from an ex-cognac cask, though apparently, it’s not. There’s also an air of an old forge, metal, and greases… With water: motor oil, sourdough, and liquorice… Could it have been an ex-Longrow-ex-bourbon cask, by any chance? Mouth (neat): here comes Caol Ila’s intrinsic power, joined by a nearly effervescent profile—Schweppes, ginger, cinchona, sea salt, and an unexpected touch of jasmine tea. It all works very nicely, even if my description sounds improbable. With water: not very Caol Ila, but what matters is it’s both beautiful and delicious. Finish: long, with those floral notes lingering—lavender, jasmine, and even rosemary. Comments: a most surprising CI, especially after ten others, offering a fairly different perspective. Either way, I love it despite its unusual character. Well, they say habits are killers.
SGP:555 - 86 points. |
Once again, a very impressive grouping today, but as we’ve said, CI offers the reliability of a brand-new Patek Philippe (just to pick an example at random). |
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December 9, 2024 |
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Painting by Pierre Soulages (Museum of Modern Art, New York)
Joking aside, it’s actually an interior wall of the famous Vault No. 1 at Bowmore
(WF Archive, 2015). |
We said through the ages because today, we’re truly spreading out our small new vertical tasting, from young Bowmore to the 1950s, thereby covering almost every style. Bowmore is perhaps the distillate whose style has evolved the most over the decades—or so it seems to me. In any case, this is what we most enjoy doing, when we have the opportunity. Let’s see what’s inside the Bowmore box… |
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Bowmore 10 yo ‘Dark & Intense’ (40%, OB, travel retail, 1l, +/-2024)
Hogsheads and Spanish oak sherry. We’d tried the inaugural batch a few years back, though I shan’t tell you what we thought—it’s best to hope they’ve tweaked the recipe for the better. Oddly available on Amazon, which feels strange for a travel exclusive, doesn’t it? And calling something ‘intense’ at 40% ABV is good for a laugh at least. Colour: dark gold. Nose: stuffed cabbage and last week’s whelks, with hints of leather and tobacco. Then, mercifully, more pleasant things emerge—dried seaweed, a bit of camphor, and perhaps peated chocolate. Admittedly, there are redeeming qualities, though the palate’s where it all needs to come together. Mouth: it’s fine. Mentholated tobacco, walnuts, brine, charred wood, goulash sauce, and a touch of mustard. Yes, not bad at all. Finish: not particularly long, with some lingering bitterness. Comments: brings to mind the tricky bottlings of 1995–2000, while the 40% remains a clear handicap. Still, the recipe does seem improved, even if there’s no real fruitiness to speak of.
SGP:263 - 75 points. |
Right, that's done—let's carry on... |
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Bowmore 11 yo 2013/2024 (57.4%, Single Cask Nation, 1st fill oloroso hogshead finish, cask #160490, 307 bottles)
A rather generous 39-month finishing, which feels more like a second maturation, doesn’t it? Colour: gold. Nose: this leans towards pure Bowmore, albeit gently rounded off by dry sherry, evoking an impression of high-quality boot polish. There’s a delightful addition of maritime touches—shells, oysters—and hints of aged tools and antique bronze. Not entirely typical, yet undeniably charming, with a dry PX-like character reminiscent of dry Málaga. With water: gamey notes emerge alongside motor oil, plasticine, hand cream, and lip balm—ideal provisions for a winter ski trip. Mouth (neat): walnut liqueur, mustard, salt, seawater, shoe polish, pepper, and a stray raisin or two bringing to mind the old 'Darkest' Bowmore, only a thousand times better balanced. No, make that ten thousand. With water: oranges and tobacco join the ensemble. Finish: long, predominantly saline, with a late flourish of dark chocolate. Comments: an old-school Bowmore with heaps of charisma. This would thrive in the cellar for another five years to nudge it into 90-point territory.
SGP:466 - 89 points. |
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Bowmore 15 yo 2001/2017 (56%, LMDW, Artist #7, hogshead, cask #20116, 275 bottles)
How on earth did this one slip under the radar for all these years? Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s all very straightforward—citrusy, maritime, and smoky—minimalist to the point of being almost abstract. A clean, no-frills style that leaves no room for debate: you’ll either love it or not, and we’re firmly in the ‘love it’ camp. With water: ashes and brine step forward. Mouth (neat): stunningly simple, even disarmingly so. Think peppered lemons and oysters, all drenched in seawater, with a faint touch of slightly vanilla-ed limoncello. With water: utterly elemental. Finish: long, just a tad oilier and even lightly liqueur-like, with a peppery edge. Comments: the beauty of simplicity itself. A child’s smile, a bird’s song, a song by Khruangbin, and a small dram of this Bowmore—what more could one wish for? Right, world peace and all the war dogs locked away.
SGP:556 - 90 points. |
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Bowmore 19 yo ‘Feis Ile 2024’ (54.8%, OB, double-matured in virgin American oak barrels, 3,500 bottles)
We’ve come across some ‘Feis’ Bowmores in the past that were borderline overwhelming—stifling, even cloying, thanks to overbearing cask influence. But this one promises to be a different story, so let’s dive in. Colour: deep gold. Nose: a clear nod to deep-charred barrels here. Vanilla, pineapple, mango, golden delicious apples, and banana dominate—seductive and luscious, though not especially ‘Bowmore’. To be fair, it’s not veering into Jack Daniels territory either—let’s not get carried away. With water: more balance emerges, with faint hints of classic Bowmore markers, though we’re not quite in rollmop territory. Mouth (neat): you’d have to be a real killjoy not to enjoy this ultra-creamy, fruity profile. Banana, grapefruit, and mango liqueurs, all gently draped in soft, caressing peat (yes, caressing—why not?). With water: coconut and a touch of tikka masala peek through, before green oak tannins make their presence felt. Finish: the least convincing part, with powdered coconut and over-brewed tea taking the lead. Comments: there’s no denying this is a very well-constructed ‘Bourbmore’. But would you want three glasses in a row? Probably not.
SGP:654 - 85 points. |
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Bowmore 1997/2023 (46.1%, Berry Bros. & Rudd for Kensington Wine Market, sherry butt, cask #85, 98 bottles)
The 1990s marked Bowmore’s triumphant return to form, following some rather erratic years that we’ll revisit shortly. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a beautifully maritime whisper, all finesse and delicacy. Fine brine, seaweed, samphire, winkles, grey shrimp, and an elegant manzanilla character—think of Callejuela’s finest ‘añadas’. Add to that ashes, resinous touches, a hint of tobacco, and a waft of beechwood smoke. The nose is an absolute masterpiece, exuding almost Florentine grace. Mouth: bang, it all comes alive! Lemon, green pepper, charcoal, bitter woods, peat, lemon zest, grapefruit, sage, star anise, and wormwood in perfect harmony. Oh, and oysters—how could I forget the oysters? Finish: a little sherry re-emerges, vying for control with notes of green walnut. The oysters strike back—what a delightful tussle. Comments: superb and emblematic of Bowmore’s renaissance. The only snag is the stock being in Calgary, and from WF HQ, it’s a 14-hour flight via Schiphol.
SGP:456 - 91 points. |
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Flowermore 38 yo 1985/2024 (53.3%, WhiskyLand, Decadent Drinks, refill barrel, 171 bottles)
The most notorious vintage of Bowmore’s mid-80s, crafted under the watchful eye of Big Jim McEwan during his time as distillery manager. These years are infamous for the ‘FWP’ phenomenon coined by pioneering whisky freak ‘Bushido’ (and an increasingly forgotten acronym, and perhaps rightly so), dominated by Parma violets and sometimes lavender-scented eau de toilette. Yet, after nearly forty years, a few casks appear to have worked some molecular alchemy. In that case, these vintages, once hysterical, are now undeniably historical (ooh that’s lousy, S.). For those curious, see Dave Broom’s 2005 Lavender Lament from the Malt Maniacs archives. Colour: light gold. Nose: the DNA is unmistakable, with lavender and violet bonbons present, though now balanced by maritime and peaty elements that take centre stage. A heathery, slightly modelling clay note emerges, evoking a famous Orkney malt. There’s also a hint of clams and mussels, adding briny depth. With water: grenadine and rosemary. Mouth: as if someone brewed a tisane with lavender, seawater, smoked kippers, shellfish, and thyme. A surprising harmony as all these notes dance together instead of clashing. With water: blood orange, sea spray, and Toulouse violet sweets—the finest kind, naturally. Finish: medium length, with the floral and maritime aspects in perfect equilibrium. Comments: well, that was easy—all it took was thirty-eight years. Still a touch eccentric, but unquestionably the best Bowmore from these years I’ve ever tasted. True collector’s item in that sense. One point for historical significance added.
SGP: 753 - 90 points. |
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Bowmore 1969/1978 (GL. 58, OB for Fecchio & Frassa, sherry cask, cask #6638, 75cl)
Killer vintages, killer series. Yet another homage to our Italian friends, who had the infuriating knack of nabbing all the best whisky casks back in the day. Just imagine—this gem is likely no older than 8 years, perhaps 9 at most. Every Bowmore bottled for Fecchio & Frassa around the distillery’s bicentenary was of utterly über-interstellar quality. To the best of living memory, nothing finer has ever been crafted along the shores of Loch Indaal. By the way, ‘G.L.’ stands for Gay-Lussac degrees, essentially equivalent to % ABV. Colour: white wine. Nose: forget it, this is just going to hurt. Pink grapefruit, delicate oils and waxes, a tidal wave of maritime elements—you get the idea. Really, it’s a whole, seamless entity, defying decomposition into individual descriptors. With water: a sort of oily tension dominates here, in the best possible way. If I were to show off (again, S.), I’d liken it to the engine oil of Ayrton Senna’s McLaren after 300km of fierce battle with Prost’s. Mouth (neat): absolutely outrageous. Salinity turned up to 11, alongside oils, waxes, citrus galore… With water: quintessential Bowmore. Salty, waxy, brimming with fermented fruits, citrus, seaweed, aged tar, and long-forgotten medicinal liqueurs. Finish: alas, it ends—but oh, what a journey! Comments: none. What could possibly be said?
SGP:565 - 95 points. Or maybe 96. Does it even matter? |
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Bowmore 1955/1974 ‘For 12th September 1974’ (unknown ABV, OB, 100 half jugs)
Perhaps the rarest of the genuine Bowmores. Naturally, we’ve tasted it before, but this comes from a different jug, and frankly, any excuse to revisit something like this is more than welcome. |
Let’s dive in—quickly, we promise (unless you object, of course). This particular bottling was created to mark the opening of Bowmore’s visitor centre in 1974. Worth noting, the whisky might have evolved in its little jug since we first encountered it back in 2012, though this isn’t the same jug. Colour: white wine. Nose: pink grapefruit and mango shine alongside pistachio oil. It’s that unmistakable fruity brilliance from Bowmore’s golden era, circa 1950 to 1967, showing not the slightest sign of fatigue. Dazzling, like a grand white Graves from a vintage contemporary to this Bowmore. Mouth: exotic fruits weave seamlessly together, underpinned by salty and mineral notes that provide structure. There’s a faint suggestion of clay, possibly imparted by the jug itself. Finish: the majesty of an aged white wine, with delicate vulnerabilities adding to its allure—again, very much like a great Graves blanc. No need to name any particular château. Comments: our conclusions remain unchanged from before, though the peat seems to have receded slightly here—just a hunch. Still, what a masterpiece. There, down the hatch!
SGP:653 - 96 points. |
UPDATE we're republishing the inside of the amazing little leaflet that was to be found in the box. Thanks Thomas. |
(Gracias Angus & grazzie mille, KC) |
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December 8, 2024 |
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Antique Cognacs
(a slightly disrupted session) |
It’s time to conclude our little vertical tasting of high-quality vintage cognacs. So far, we’ve successfully avoided the overly standardised blends of the big brands and the borderline obscurations, and we’ve happily explored vintages ranging from 1989 to 1970 two weeks ago, then from 1961 to 1940 last week. Today, we’ll naturally have to leap over the Second World War, but not without first enjoying a pleasant little aperitif...
Every 20 to 25 years, major brands try to promote the use of their spirits in the world of cocktails, often in an effort to offset periods of declining sales. Here, Courvoisier in the 1950s offered a blend said to be perfect for a "long drink," clearly inspired by whisky, which was begining to flood into France after World War II. |
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Tiffon ‘Très Vieille Réserve’ (43%, OB, Tiffon, Grande Champagne, +/-2024)
We first tasted this exactly 10 years ago, and here we have a much more recent bottling. We know it’s very good. Colour: copper amber. Nose: absolutely explosive on the nose, almost like an old gewurztraminer late harvest, and let’s admit, an old pineau des Charentes. The kind of thing one would never have drunk until the good people of Cognac started letting us taste old family barrels. What a revelation, the only issue being to determine the ideal serving temperature—several schools of thought, it seems. But back to this very lovely Cognac: so, old pineau, then very old Malaga, raisins, artisanal peach liqueur, and some tertiary notes of morels, tobacco, damp earth, and liquorice. At no point do the 43% feel like a hindrance. Mouth: inevitably a little less emphatic and slightly drying, perhaps due to the ancient casks and the relatively low strength. But this blend of liquorice, pine resin, and orange liqueur works beautifully. Tobacco returns with a hint of menthol. Finish: medium in length and still slightly drying, but the flavours are spot on. A touch of leather. Comments: one dreams of three or four extra degrees of alcohol, but the overall experience is simply excellent. We’ve just discovered that the youngest Cognac in this blend is 80 years old, so there must surely be some pre-war spirit in this little gem.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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Maison Prunier ‘Lot 28’ (49.3%, Through the Grapevine, 7.0, Grande Champagne, 2024)
A very old vintage, aged in roux oak (aka refill) before being transferred to a demijohn in the early 1960s. So, we can estimate roughly 35 years in wood + 60 years in glass = around 45 years by my entirely unscientific reckoning. Colour: mahogany. Nose: tar, mint, and basalt, I’d say, before adding the eternal vineyard peaches and a few touches of beeswax, old books, abbey libraries, wild mushrooms, chestnut honey, and little liquorice pastilles like those cachous we have in France. Maybe they added a few to the demijohn (just joking!). Mouth: an iron fist in a velvet glove. Honey, sweet liquorice, sultanas, and citrus marmalade upfront, but also brown tobacco, black tea, pine buds, and ground coffee in the background. The whole thing works to perfection. Finish: long, leaning more towards oak, black tea, and dark chocolate, with a touch of herbaceousness, but never becoming overly drying. Comments: two geniuses were active in the early 1960s—(Sir) Paul McCartney and the great soul who decided to transfer this admirable old Cognac to a demijohn.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
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François Voyer ‘Temps Magique Lot 19.20’ (43.8%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2024)
We’re not entirely sure how to interpret the lot number—1920? A multivintage 1919+1920? A 1919 transferred to a demijohn in 2020 and bottled in 2024? Let’s leave the mystery hanging—why must we always know everything? Colour: walnut stain. Nose: those initial puffs of pinewood suggesting very prolonged maturation in wood, then shifting to other resins (spruce, cedar) before an outright explosion of fruits, both dried and very ripe. Multiple kinds of raisins, figs, slices of pear, dates, prunes, and finally a freshly opened box of ‘deluxe’ pipe tobacco. Even if you don’t or no longer smoke, it’s worth picking up a small packet just to log the aromas in your cerebral library (right?). Of course, we’re not talking about smoking the stuff. Then, a few touches of liquorice, tar, more pine resin, turpentine, and old orange liqueur… All in all, quite a magical nose. Mouth: the wood is present, ‘of course’, but it’s very delicate and wrapped in honey, beeswax, and citrus marmalade. It’s much more compact than on the nose, but that’s often the way with very old spirits. It evolves logically towards pine bud liqueur, very dry rancio, and bitter chocolate. Finish: not many changes here; the bitter chocolate and pine resin remain firmly in control. Comments: what’s astonishing is how you feel the spirit of the times in which this marvel was distilled—so, the roaring twenties—but also other ancient beverages of the era, such as medicinal liqueurs, elixirs, and cordials. Truly a window to the past, and you almost want to put on Bix Beiderbecke or Maurice Chevalier on the old crank-driven phonograph at WF HQ. That alone earns it one extra point.
SGP:571 - 93 points. |
Well, we thought we also had three recent bottlings of much older vintages, but we got it wrong—they were the bottling numbers, not the batch/vintages. What a blunder! But instead of reimbursing you, we’d like to make it up to you with some very old bottles, if that works for you… |
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Grande Champagne 1906 (Jacksons de Piccadilly, ‘Qualité Exceptionnelle’, 1950s)
Bottled for the iconic London grocers, tea house, and wine merchants Jacksons of Piccadilly, whose brand was later acquired by Twinings. The mention of “The Queen” on the label and the absence of a strength indication suggest a bottling from the 1950s, likely featuring a Grande Champagne cognac of about fifty years. Probably crafted from grafted vines post-phylloxera, though not certain—Cognac retained 40,000ha of vineyards around 1906 compared to over 300,000ha in 1870 and 75,000ha today (with yields now much higher). Colour: deep gold. Nose: quite a bit of OBE, I’d say, but this old cognac starts off much drier, focused on saps and resins, before opening into grilled tones, sautéed mushrooms, and brown tobacco. One is transported to a pine forest, among moss, ferns, and fungi—you might only miss a bit of game trotting by. Mouth: the profile remains consistent, with pine sap and touches of liquorice sweets, followed by a salty brothiness and that celebrated old rancio, showing a well-matured woodiness and hints of ham. A trace of mead appears, with very little fruit, though the whole is utterly captivating. Not overly powerful but poised, holding itself admirably without any kind of decline. Finish: of medium length, a bit softer with the late arrival of some raisins that enhance the rancio. Slightly oxidative, with a persistently saline aftertaste. Comments: I must admit, I’m impressed by how well this very London-esque Grande Champagne has held up. And I do have a soft spot for pine sap.
SGP:461 - 90 points. |
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Lauzac 1906 ‘Borderie’ (37.3%)
This one came with a charming little handwritten label, possibly a private bottling, or perhaps the original label was lost or replaced by this artisanal substitute. The ABV reflects the cognac's strength at the time of opening, measured using our friend Angus’s trusty Anton Parr electronic alco-meter, after he uncovered this Borderies gem. That said, the name ‘Lauzac’ offers no clues about any known location or cognac house, though there is a Château Lauzac in Bordeaux. Perhaps this is an old brandy de Bordeaux, with “borderie” referring, in French, to a small farm rather than Cognac’s famous cru. A real mystery! Colour: brownish amber. Nose: not very powerful, but honey and old raisins emerge, like those found in a tin box tucked away for decades. This develops into sweet wine notes, reminiscent of old malmsey Madeira, fruit pudding, and inevitably, Christmas cake. O Tannenbaum, O Tannenbaum, wie treu... It’s all wonderfully old-school, with a touch of sticky Jerez brandy about it. Mouth: that’s spot on—honey, pancake syrup, heaps of raisins, and lush dessert wines (think Tokaji, Rivesaltes, Pineau…). Then come delightful hints of aromatic herbs, aniseed, and pipe tobacco. It may feel slightly “doctored” but doesn’t veer into coffee liqueur territory. Finish: fairly long, almost sticky with sugary sweetness, though the herbs keep it afloat beautifully. Comments: a rather luscious old cognac (or brandy) that brings to mind the style beloved by my dearly missed grandparents. I’m thinking of them as I savour the last drops of this charming ‘Lauzac’.
SGP:650 - 89 points. |
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Courvoisier 60 yo ‘The Brandy of Napoléon’ (Grande Fine Champagne, late 1930s)
The “60 ans” is indicated on the first label, while the second states “by appointment to the late King George V”, who passed in 1936. Likely bottled in the late 1930s then, this would include distillates from the 1860s–1870s, around the time phylloxera began ravaging the Charente vineyards (mainly planted with folle blanche) in 1872. While folle blanche now accounts for just 1% of the region’s vines, it’s enjoying renewed focus in some cuvées, and this venerable Courvoisier is likely mostly, if not entirely, folle blanche. Let’s dive in! Colour: walnut stain. Nose: we rarely taste these major brands—perhaps not malternative enough for this humble site—but I recall trying the full Erté Collection, all around 60 years old, with vintages going down to 1892. Some were excellent; might this even older 60-year-old be in the same league? Its deep, almost opaque colour signals a decidedly ‘retro’ style, to say the least. The nose is unique, rich with chestnut cream, milk chocolate, hazelnut spread (from a famous brand), Corinth raisins, umeshu, mocha, and pipe tobacco. There’s a touch of morels and earthy humus typical of ancient bottles, yet it’s not at all mouldy—on the contrary, it’s rather majestic (though we wouldn’t quite call it imperial). Mouth: the “Brandy of Napoléon” tagline doesn’t imply distillates from the early 19th century (or the famous comet year of 1811), but perhaps some from the Second Empire (1852–1870) could be present. It's the brand's tagline anyway. After the glorious nose, the palate feels more liqueur-like, as these old cognacs often do, lacking the definition of finer WF stalwarts. Loads of raisins and sweet wines with a pronounced “brandy” character, but hardly any fresh fruit or spices. It’s nearly a slightly sugar-stripped liqueur with notes of pine buds, coffee, chocolate, fig, and honey liqueurs. Some Cognac houses do make such honey-based liqueurs (Normandin comes to mind), as do whisky distilleries (Jack, Irish Mist, Drambuie, Bushmills, Atholl Brose, etc.). Finish: medium length, sweet, leaning on raisins, dessert wines (moscatel), and dark, slightly tannic honey. Comments: rather at the top of the range for this charmingly antique, elegantly old-fashioned style.
SGP:631 - 88 points. |
(Merci, Monsieur Angus !) |
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December 7, 2024 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Three Benromach
I seem to recall writing some Benromach notes for WF not too long ago, but there’s some intriguing looking new ones on the desk, plus I bought a bottle of the 10 year old for festive purposes and, most importantly, I really like Benromach. So, excuses duly submitted, let’s commence… |
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Benromach 10 yo (43%, OB, 2024) 
Colour: pale gold. Nose: a soft, mineral sherry, with impressions of mechanical stuff, toolboxes, oiled bike chain, bone marrow and suet. Some soft, heathery peat in the background too, with also a nicely coal-dusty and sooty edge. Has an old school character that almost comes across as old bottle effect, with these fun notes that suggest metal polish, steel wool and old pewter hip flasks or drinking goblets. Mouth: graphite oil and muddy peat, with lanolin, rather salty, drying sherry character and even a waxy side that begins to emerge. Rugged and robust whisky that definitely carries an element of older school charm and charisma. Also gives a feeling of mineral oils and a slightly earthy, mossy quality. Finish: medium length, more soft peaty and peppery notes, a nicely oily quality and some more salty sherry notes. Recalls some older Taliskers in some way. Comments: bang for your buck! A charmingly composed mix of full-bodied, slightly older style distillate with elegant sherry influence and well-balanced peat. How often do they prepare batches of this bottling I wonder, should we expect some charming batch variation? Either way, an excuse to try it pretty regularly I would say.
SGP: 563 - 87 points. |
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Benromach 18 yo 2005/2024 (57.3%, OB for Hedonism Wines, #14197428, 1st fill sherry hogshead, 286 bottles) 
A new bottling for the excellent Hedonism Wines in London. Colour: deep gold. Nose: the 10yo at warp 9! That is to say, this familiar integration of soft peat and sherry, but only with much more assertive earthiness, spiced marmalade, faded peat smoke, camphor and many elegant herbal qualities, such as bitters, teas and ointments. Also vibes of very old liqueurs such as Drambuie and Grand Marnier. With water: becomes more mentholic, with pine resin, dried mint and eucalyptus impressions. Some crystallised ginger and citrus peels as well. Mouth: muscular, vibrant and meaty sherry, with natural tars, hardwood resins, leaf mulch, tobaccos and walnut wine. Some more liqueurs, Green Chartreuse this time, and things like toasted fennel seed, dried tarragon, verbena and woodruff. Add to that some aniseed and slightly more medicinal, cough syrup vibes too. With water: leans more towards the gamier sides now, with animalistic touches, game broth, suet, old pinot noir and waxy qualities. Finish: long, peppery, earthy, waxy, mentholated and elegantly peaty. This gamey, mineral and earthy, drying sherry dominates the aftertaste beautifully. Comments: tip top modern Benromach from a rugged and excellent sherry cask. Love this tense, powerful and sinewy profile.
SGP: 463 - 90 points. |
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Benromach 21 yo 2002/2024 (56.6%, OB for Capital Whisky Club, cask #971, 1st fill bourbon barrel, 170 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: green fruits and crushed nettles galore! Possesses this sort of sharp, green, lively profile that makes you think of top class New Zealand sauvignon blanc, with these notes of kiwi, gooseberry, grass, nettles, lime and passionfruit. This also has a beautiful waxiness along with a soft, brittle and coastal peat smoke that brings to mind 1990s Springbank of similar age. Continues with shoe polish and flower honey. Something for everyone! With water: more herbal now, some coconut and sandalwood, more medicinal impressions with witchhazel and a touch of antiseptic. Mouth: terrific arrival, the fruitiness is a little more sticky, sweet and syrupy here, more flower nectars, sweet honey, lime curd, barley water, waxes, pollens, sweetened breakfast cereals and fruit teas. With water: back to sharper green fruits, tart cider apples, greengage, lime and nettle once again. Finish: long, on candied citrus peels, bergamot, lemon oil, waxes and camphor. Comments: top class older Benromach once again, almost 91! These early 2000s casks seem to be unbeatable just now.
SGP: 653 - 90 points. |
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December 6, 2024 |
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Glen Spey x 3
As part of our special programme, "Supporting Distilleries That Are All Too Often Overlooked", we’ll be tasting three young Glen Spey once again. It must be said, we’re keeping up a good pace—we’ve already sampled 80 since the start of this lousy website! |
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Glen Spey 12 yo (43%, OB, Flora & Fauna, +/-2024)
One of the malts found in J&B, and one we tend to revisit roughly every decade. Let’s hope Diageo keeps this little gem in their portfolio, as the tiny goldcrest (Regulus regulus) mascot on the label is simply delightful. Fun fact: it’s said that Michael Jackson was the one who suggested the name 'Flora & Fauna' to UDV (pre-Diageo). Colour: white wine. Nose: not the sort to summon the entire whisky universe, but it seems better than before, with a rather charming fruity nose of ripe apple and yellow melon, followed by cake batter and a touch of wheat beer. Fruitier than I recall, which is a pleasant surprise. Mouth: quite good, though perhaps less compact and harmonious than ideal. A touch fermentary and rooty (think salsify), but lifted by notes of greengages, cider, and beer. Fresh almonds lend a mildly bitter edge. Finish: not overly long, with a slightly herbal and waxier profile emerging. Very ripe apples return in the aftertaste, giving a nice echo. Comments: I’d say it’s improved since last time, and that goldcrest is just so endearing. To be honest, we don’t really know if it’s an old batch they’re selling off bit by bit, in which case the changes would come from ageing in the bottle, or if they’re still producing new batches from time to time.
SGP:441 - 79 points. |
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Glen Spey 10 yo 2012/2022 (54.6%, Lady of the Glen, ex-wine barrique, cask #800062, 311 bottles)
Admirable, really, that an independent bottler has the audacity to shine a light on such an unassuming distillery as Glen Spey. Let us sing their praises to the rafters, barrique be damned! Colour: straw. Nose: hurrah, not a jot of vinosity! Instead, apples, apples, and yet more apples, which suits us fine as we’re rather fond of the things. “Eat apples!” as Chirac would have said. A splash of water? Why not. With water: a touch of shoe polish and fresh rubber (tyres for Tesla), then bitter almonds before it fades a little on the nose. Mouth (neat): delightful! Grapefruit, citron, Spanish apple liqueur (masters of the craft, those Spaniards), and lashings of ripe papaya. What fun this is. With water: shifts sweetly towards candied treats, with a subtle edge of pepper and a faint nod to mezcal. Finish: long and fairly sweet—was it a sweet wine cask, perhaps? Comments: a splendid surprise, this young Glen Spey. The choice of a wine barrique, dare I say it, was a stroke of genius this time—or perhaps I’m overstating things.
SGP: 651 - 85 points. |
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Glen Spey 2011/2024 (56%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 24005, 305 bottles)
After a parade of brilliant recent ‘Rare Casks’ from Malts of Scotland, it’s rather grounding to dip into something a touch more down-to-earth—or so one assumes. Let’s see, shall we? Colour: full gold. Nose: this one opens with a whiff of shoe polish, soon transitioning to candle wax, waxed apple skins, fresh almonds, and a spritz of good kirsch—the kind that reminds you how marvellous kirsch can be. Then on to cherry-flavoured Belgian beer (kriek, naturally). With water: metal polish joins in, alongside some fresh rhubarb. Mouth (neat): orange and pistachio cake take the lead, wrapped in a swirl of spices—aniseed, pepper, cinnamon. It’s like a tray of Christmas biscuits, perfectly timed for the season. With water: just as anticipated, speculoos appear, pairing wonderfully with that iconic Belgian cherry beer. My Belgian friends remain baffled that I enjoy such things, but I love cherries. Finish: medium length, the flavours grow a touch more disparate and lean towards the herbal, but no harm done. Comments: an international scandal, losing two points at the finish line! Still a delightful dram, mind.
SGP: 551 - 84 points. |
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December 5, 2024 |
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WF's little duos, two Strathmills for Glory
As you know, we've made it our mission to sample as often as possible (and "possible" is the key word here) whiskies from those distilleries you rarely come across—ones originally designed to supply the big-name blends that were ruling the whisky world just two decades ago. Strathmill, located in Keith, is a prime example. The main misconception? "If the owners never really released it as a single malt, it must not be any good." What a rookie mistake, my friend... Here, let's start things off with an official Strathmill to set the tone. |
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