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| Hi, you're in the Archives, October 2024 - Part 2 |
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October 31, 2024 |
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| Glen Ord (WF Archive 2006) |
I would have liked to find some old Ords that we haven't yet tasted, especially those whose barley was malted in the old Saladin Box. Yes, it's good to have goals in life, but it probably won’t be for today. Anyway, we’re going to leave it to chance... |
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Glen Ord 10 yo 2012/2022 (52.3%, The Whisky Agency, RIFA, barrel, cask #800207, 118 bottles) 
A flying pig on the label, reminding me somewhat of Pink Floyd. If one might say so. Colour: gold. Nose: a delightfully natural malt, the kind we often enjoy, but one we never tire of. Grist, chalk, apples, freshly cut grass, and a touch of wakame – all very fresh indeed. Not a hint of ham, mind you, ha! With water: the expected vanilla does show up, but gently. Fresh cake too. Mouth (neat): similar vibes, with cider apples, Golden Delicious, bread dough, a bit of green clay, and a touch of grapefruit zest. Then fresh malt and a hint of grass again, or Sauvignon Blanc perhaps (sometimes it’s hard to tell, ha). With water: a lovely bitterness comes through, with a slight tang. Finish: long, herbaceous, rounding off towards the end with a hint of custard. Comments: not the easiest malt, but it’s refreshingly honest, free from the sort of artifice we see all too often these days. I know, I do go on.
SGP:351 - 85 points. |
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The Singleton (of Glen Ord) 14 yo ‘Autumn Walk’ (54.7%, OB, Special Release, 2024) 
‘Matured in bourbon casks and then finished in charred Pyrenean and Spanish oak cask ends’. LOL, good one! The question that remains is whether it was the Spanish or the French side of the Pyrenees? Or perhaps Andorra? Colour: deep gold. Nose: a bit rougher than the 2012, you definitely feel the influence of the oak(s) here, it’s like stepping into a cooperage. Then some rather charming notes of crème brûlée appear. It does come across as somewhat ‘worked on’ at this stage, but not in a bad way. No, not at all. With water: freshly sawn wood, though it improves after that. A whiff of old tweed, and even a faint touch of wet dog (woof). Mouth (neat): again, a hit of wood juice at first, then a mix of citrus and wood spices (ginger, coriander seeds, turmeric, nutmeg). If only one could enjoy whisky without that initial mouth attack! If anyone’s got a trick for that, do let me know. With water: tobacco and leather, plus some green spices. Finish: long, bitter, with hints of fruit skins. Still some new wood lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: very decent, though not my favourite style, Pyrenean oak or not. Plus, the more natural 2012 really overshadowed this one.
SGP:461 - 81 points. |
Let's go back to a classic ex-bourbon... |
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Glen Ord 11 yo 2012/2024 (58.6%, Lady of the Glen, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #800186, 193 bottles) 
Colour: straw. Nose: well, this is rather superior! Quite close to what you'd find from the one by the Whisky Agency, but with a tighter, more citrusy profile. There’s a lovely freshness about it—green apple, a touch of cactus, and freshly baked scones. With water: oh, splendid! Now we’re getting a bit of absinthe, peach syrup, a hint of damp earth, and some mint... What a lovely nose, fresh and expressive. Mouth (neat): yes indeed, here come the lemons and limes, green pepper, and grapefruit... Admittedly, it’s a bit sharp now, but we quite like that. With water: not much has changed, although you do get a touch of baker's yeast and, dare I say, a faint 7up note (let’s just ignore that). Finish: long, herbaceous, and still carrying that green pepper. Comments: it lost a point because of the 7up moment, but seriously, this is a fairly cracking whisky within this common genre. You just need to handle it with care—perfect for the pipette kings and queens among us.
SGP:361 - 84 points. |
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Glen Ord 11 yo 2012/2024 (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 100 Proof, 1st Fill Bourbon Barrel)
Have we mentioned how much we like this new series from Signatory? The pricing is rather clever—very good for further building ‘consumer good will,’ which might come in handy in the not-too-distant future. Colour: straw. Nose: well, same territory as many others. There must be millions of these kinds of casks in Scotland, but that’s not a problem since they’re the ones we enjoy. Especially those that haven’t been dressed up like stolen cars. This one’s got a tad more waxiness, I’d say. With water: it’s almost like grapeseed oil, isn’t it? Mouth (neat): of course it’s good. Candied lemon, apple peel, grass, and a touch of bitter green tea. With water: that green malt note — I know that doesn’t make much sense beyond that marketing tagline for ‘sustainable malt’ —and still those apple and lemon peels. Lovely texture, it handles water beautifully. Finish: long, rougher, herbaceous, and a bit bitter. Comments: it’s a bit of a cowboy whisky—you could imagine sipping this while taking in the scenery and the lead actress’s... ahem... talents in 1883 on Netflix. Oops, that might get me into trouble…
SGP:361 - 84 points. |
It’s the finishes that are a bit disappointing today. Right, I think it's a curse, they're all going to be the same. We'll stop after the next one... Because we really like Fadandel. |
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Glen Ord 11 yo 2012/2023 (58.8%, Fadandel, 1st Fill Bourbon Barrel, cask #800241, 213 bottles)
Good grief, how many of these 2012 ex-bourbon Ords are out there? Right, let's be quick... Colour: pale gold. Nose: identical to the Signatory bottling, with a few touches of coffee. It works. With water: freshly cut grass with a few flowers in the mix. That really works. Mouth (neat): same whisky as before. No complaints, it’s a good one. With water: turns quite herbaceous. Finish: long, with green pepper and a fair bit of bitterness. Comments: honest, dependable, and fair, although a bit tough.
SGP:361 - 83 points. |
Alright, we'll really stop here. All these young ex-bourbon ones have been just a tiny-wee bit simple(ish) in fact, but they've somewhat overshadowed the new Special Release, even if that one was actually pretty decent. Well, it's not the best SR of the year 2024, but I haven’t tried them all yet. Hasta luego. |
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October 30, 2024 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today Tullibardine |
IB vs. OB.
Let’s go…
(Flavour profile imparted by a proper used cask of Palo Cortado accorting to brokers/ coopers Toneleria del Sur in Montilla (Casknolia)
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Tullibardine 12 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, matured in palo cortado, 2024)
A release from August of this year. Colour: gold. Nose: bursting with oranges – if you’re as fond of them as I am, you’re in for a treat. Jaffa cakes, honey, a touch of olive oil (Spanish, of course) and freshly peeled oranges. There’s also a hint of macarons and amaretti biscuits. Honestly, on the nose, it’s wonderfully done, but that’s often the case with good palo cortado. Mouth: yes, very good, especially considering the relatively modest price. Chocolate, walnut cake (that’s quite pronounced), turrón, hazelnut spread and peanut butter, roasted pecans… All of it works like a charm. Finish: perhaps its slightly weaker point, with some flinty notes, leather, and a touch of bitter orange taking the lead at this stage. Comments: frankly, this is a lovely little Tully. By the way, there is indeed a 'Tully' distillery in Washington State, USA, though I don’t believe I’ve tried anything from them. And let’s not forget Grandtully in Scotland, though that one closed back in 1910.
SGP:361 - 86 points. |
Watch out, red wine ahead, hold on tight... |
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Tullibardine 2008/2024 (46%, OB, The Murray, Châteauneuf-du-Pape finish, 15,720 bottles)
They call it a ‘drop of pure Highland gold’, though with some Châteauneuf influence, I’m not so certain. That said, Tullibardine is one of those malts that has really improved over the years, much like the reds from Châteauneuf-du-Pape themselves—not just Rayas, of course. Colour: apricot gold. Nose: not bad, but the vinosity is definitely noticeable. Strawberry and cherry jam, very ‘Grenache’ indeed. It’s not unpleasant at all, but you’d better enjoy pronounced winey notes in your malt whisky if this is to be your cup of tea. I mean, you see what I mean. Mouth: similar feelings on the palate—well-crafted, but the cherry really takes centre stage here. Think cherries in kirsch, and that well-known Belgian beer, Kriek, which our Belgian friends don’t seem to rave about. There’s also some rosehip tea and blood orange in the mix. The texture is rather pleasing. Finish: fairly long, with flavours of cherry clafoutis. Comments: the Miclo distillery here in Alsace matures some of their whiskies in cherry in kirsch casks, and that works quite well as a ‘variant’. Anyway, this ‘Murray’ is pretty decent, just not my preferred style. Those cherries though!
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
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October 29, 2024 |
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A few more whiskies from
around the world |
This time, we’re sticking to tradition and starting in France.
Armorik's pair of proper pot stills, built 1993 (Armorik)
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Armorik 12 yo 2012/2024 ‘Sherry Cask’ (56%, OB, LMDW, oloroso sherry butt, cask #3868, 310 bottles) 
Armorik, or Warenghem if we’re being precise, is one of those French (sorry, Breton) distilleries that seem to have made their mark abroad with remarkable ease. To be fair, they've avoided dabbling in the weird or the unlikely—no bizarre stills or dodgy wine casks here. Simply put, they’ve kept things pleasingly classic. Colour: dark amber. Nose: very much in the classic vein, with walnut cake, dark nougat, toffee, mocha, and cocoa. With water: loads of chocolate and a touch of instant coffee. Since Nestlé still hasn’t sent over that promised cheque (let alone any bitcoins), we’ll stop mentioning their brands here. Mouth (neat): it’s just very good. Brings to mind a certain beast from Dufftown, with black pepper, juniper, dried meats, a hefty dose of tobacco, dried mushrooms, and of course, old walnuts. With water: it edges towards pure oloroso, but with a faint ‘cream’ aspect—so slightly sweeter. A few raisins as well. Finish: long, very sherried, very good. Comments: essentially classic, quintessentially good.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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Lot 40 'Dark Oak' (48%, OB, Canada, Rye whisky, +/-2024)
I certainly wouldn’t want to upset my Canadian friends, and even less so dear Davin, but for quite some time, the standard Lot 40 was considered the main Canadian whisky truly worth its salt. Now, that’s not to say things haven’t changed... Colour: full gold. Nose: it’s like a perfect blend of maple syrup (how predictable!) and polish, with chocolate toffee and rich, dark earth. Very appealing indeed. Mouth: I’ve no idea what this ‘dark oak’ is exactly (though I suppose we could look it up), but we absolutely love this mix of juniper and molasses. Throw in a handful of Werther’s Originals, some coriander seeds, demerara sugar, chocolate cake, and a mountain of all sorts of nuts, each roasted to perfection. Finish: long, chocolaty, spicy, and earthy, with hints of lavender and liquorice lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: there’s a bit of a ‘too much’ quality here that we rather enjoy, though it may not be for the purists. In short, definitely not a boring whisky.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
And now, we're going to... Well, where are we going? |
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Sangam ‘World Malt Whisky’ (43%, OB, Rampur, 2024)
Ah, the familiar notion of a ‘world’ malt, though this time hailing from India. Not entirely sure what’s in the blend, but Rampur’s likely playing a part, and that’s no bad thing since Rampur’s always rather good. Colour: gold. Nose: a delightful mix of barley, honey, apple compote, and a touch of something like pancake syrup. Mouth: very much a pleasing, easy-going malt, reminiscent of those approachable entry-level Macallans, Glenlivets, or Glenfiddichs. Nothing here to grumble about, really. Finish: quite nice, though it does feel a tad delicate towards the end, with tea-like notes and a bit of molasses honey and apple juice lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: a genuinely enjoyable dram from… from where? I’m glad they haven’t shipped and bottled it in Japan, then called it ‘Japanese whisky’.
SGP:531 - 80 points. |
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Millstone 5 yo 2019/2024 ‘Special No. 31’ (46%, OB, Netherlands, Palo Cortado Peated, 2,365 bottles)
Do we really need to repeat all the praise we’ve showered upon Millstone? Honestly, everything about this one sounds a bit improbable, but that’s already half of the fun, isn’t it? Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s as if you’ve just stuck your head into an old coal stove after spritzing yourself with lemon juice. Caraway and poppy seed bread, a touch of Dutch-style pipe tobacco (naturally), and a waft of seaweed, maybe some driftwood too. Mouth: truly bizarre, but brilliant. A medley of smokes and ashes from all sorts of origins – coal, peat, fir wood, tobacco, that grass – and a curious mix of grapefruit juice, green apples, and coriander leaves. It’s really quite odd, but it all comes together so coherently in the end. Finish: long and wonderful, with lemon-drenched ashes and a little cumin kicking in right at the finish. Comments: not quite as loco as it first seems. We’re huge fans of these whiskies that are anything but boring. Right, or delicate.
SGP:565 - 89 points. |
Let’s head a little further south, where there are also beautiful things to see... |
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Filliers ‘Cask Strength’ (58.5%, OB, Belgium, PX, 2024)
While Pedro Ximénez may not be particularly Belgian, the spirit behind this dram is pure and determined. That said, perhaps it’s time to gently remind all the brilliant distillers worldwide that not every whisky needs a dose of PX to be excellent. Colour: dark amber. Nose: heavily leaning on chocolate, rum, and raisins, with a light floral hint of geranium. With water: earthy tones come forward, rye, moss, chocolate, masala, and a touch of clove. Mouth (neat): bold and robust, with orange peel, black pepper, wood, and even a flash of chilli heat. There’s also a bit of juniper in there, no surprise as Filliers are renowned genever distillers after all. With water: wonderfully earthy, which I always love. It dries things out a tad, but in a way I find most enjoyable. Finish: long, turning more floral and spicy. A hint of black tea, saffron perhaps, and a salty edge lingering on the aftertaste. Cumin. Comments: truly excellent, though perhaps not quite for pairing with shrimp croquettes (just joking!). What it does offer, though, is a real sense of place, which I think is something rather precious.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
As long as we're over there... |
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Stauning ‘Host’ (40.5%, OB, Denmark, 2024)
It says ‘Smooth & Delicate’—well, what’s that about then? Seems to be a 50/50 split of malted barley and rye, aged in a mix of American virgin oak, ex-Bourbon, and ex-Port casks. We reckon, with a bit of luck, this could work. Colour: gold. Nose: very light, but not unpleasant, rather like an herbal tea. Might even call it a breakfast whisky. Fresh bread, gentle fennel, caraway seeds, and a touch of spice… Mouth: it’s good, not even too weak. There’s bread and spices aplenty, but it tends to nod off after thirty seconds or so, becoming a bit drying. Finish: fairly short, though nicely bread-forward. Comments: It’s from a Diageo-backed distillery, so they clearly know what they’re up to, and it’s really not bad at all. Just a pity about the ABV—perhaps a typo crept in somewhere during production? At 46%, it could’ve been a little gem.
SGP:441 - 81 points. |
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Cardrona ‘The Falcon’ (52%, OB, New Zealand, 2023)
Now then, this one’s a bit complicated—a mix of an ex-Oloroso butt filled in 2016, an ex-Bourbon barrel also filled that year, and a Pinot Noir cask (if they really must) filled in 2018, all married and bottled in 2023. Quite the concoction, but we do like what Cardrona’s doing down there at the other end of the world. That said, it’s rather pricey in Europe (£170), so perhaps this is a concept that may not last. Colour: gold. Nose: not immensely expressive, with fresh bread and a bit of ash. With water: not much more, really. A hint of cherry stalk tea. Mouth (neat): it’s good, with baked cherries and toasted bread, though I don’t think the Pinot Noir adds much. With water: nicely spiced, with a bit of blood orange and clove, while the Oloroso starts to show itself with some walnut and leather notes. Finish: fairly long but not very precise. Still that cherry stalk tea. Comments: to be completely honest, despite my fondness for Cardrona, I don’t see much sense in importing a very good but maybe not totally exceptional whisky like this all the way to Europe or the US in world3.0. Perhaps our friends in Australia or NZ should enjoy it first and foremost. Unless they start finishing it in manuka honey casks, of course...
SGP:451 - 80 points. |
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October 28, 2024 |
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An official Lagavulin duo and two aperitifs |
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| Lagavulin's own World Saxophone Quartet (WF Archive, 2005) |
The aperitifs are likely independent versions of Lagavulin, but the bottlers have never, not even once, confirmed a single detail—and believe me, I’ve spent the last twenty-five years trying to get them to. I’ve even attempted bribery, enforced tippling, lavish gifts, and unmentionable blackmail: nothing, absolutely nothing, a complete failure. |
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Finlaggan 'Old Reserve' (40%, Vintage Malt Whisky Society, single Islay malt, +/-2006)
Now, we once adored a 2005 version (WF 88). Nothing actually claims this is Lagavulin, and Loch Finlaggan, seat of the Lords of the Isles, sits nearer to Caol Ila and Port Askaig. Yet, one can’t help but wonder, especially as a certain importer slapped a ‘Lagavulin’ sticker on an old bottle over twenty years ago—a move not sanctioned by the Vintage Malt Whisky Society, as I’ve recently confirmed. But enough chit-chat. Colour: gold. Nose: we start with a gorgeously rich and oily smoke, nearly sticky, interwoven with ripe yellow melon. This is already quite ‘old-school’ with its hints of seawater, tar, a touch of mint, and shellfish emerging in time. Surprisingly weighty on the nose for its modest 40% vol., which certainly whispers more of Lagavulin than Caol Ila. Mouth: splendidly intense, quite potent for a 40% peater, with that trademark medicinal sweetness we find in the distillery opposite Dunyvaig Castle. The peat comes through robustly, the whole thing lush and slightly oily. Finish: curiously long, peaty, more salted, still fairly oily with a hint of rubber—a far cry from Caol Ila’s zestier edge. Comments: I’ll stick with the same score; this distillate is a true favourite. Yet, bear in mind, Lagavulin’s style isn’t easily codified, given the limited range of expressions and the cask impact (sherry, now tequila, rum) that sometimes obscures the official distillate itself.
SGP:567 - 88 points. |
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Laggan Mill ‘Secret Islay’ (56.5%, The Cooper’s Choice, for France, bourbon cask, cask #302021, 360 bottles, 2022)
Once again, we have the very honourable Vintage Malt Whisky Society stirring up a bit of gentle mischief with the word ‘Laggan’—after all, it’s the name of a farm on the shores of Loch Indaal (where, as it happens, we once spent a night, many moons ago). But here, general consensus firmly points to Lagavulin. Colour: white wine. Nose: we’re greeted by the plum eau-de-vie quality of a very young Lagavulin, with oily peat, shellfish, brine, apple and apricot juice, oysters, and mercurochrome. If the palate isn’t too immature, this is sure to be a winner. With water: rubber boots, new tyres, and some tincture of iodine… Really, there’s very little doubt now. Mouth (neat): superb notes of pepper, olive, lemon, and smoke, reminiscent of an elevated dry Martini—the olive is really pronounced. With water: pear! Yes, it’s very young but utterly delightful, more like a dry Martini done with mezcal (say what?). Finish: an avalanche of ashes. Comments: ultra-precise, though the slight youthful edge stops me from going all the way to 90 points.
SGP:657 - 89 points. |
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Lagavulin 11 yo ‘Offerman Edition’ (46%, OB, Caribbean rum cask finish, 2024)
Now, let’s clarify—this is merely a rum finish (eight months), not a full maturation. Regrettably, I haven’t the faintest idea who Mr. Offerman is, though I’m told by Angus he’s genuinely fond of Lagavulin, which naturally speaks in his favour. Colour: light gold. Nose: Lagavulin’s robust distillate handles such a quirky rum finish with ease, barely batting an eyelid. What we get here is a lovely young Lagavulin, well coastal and peaty, with a touch of flambéed banana that politely steps back to let a proper quartet of oyster, tar, iodine, and lemon shine through. Mouth: honestly, this goes down effortlessly; the slight exotic sweetness doesn’t interfere too much with the distillate, though there’s a hint of chlorophyll, pineapple, and strawberry, then leather and banana—none of which shouts ‘Lagavulin’, indeed. Finish: fairly long, returning to the distillery’s typical profile with seawater, brine, tar, and fat citrus… thankfully! Comments: of course, it’s an excellent whisky, but I believe the standard Lagavulins remain superior—all of them. So, I’d say this 11-year-old is worth considering if you’ve no access to other Lagavulin options, official or indie.
SGP:556 - 84 points. |
By the way, there are currently quite a few new independent young "Secret Islay" bottlings that should actually be Lagavulin, but they aren’t the focus of this session. |
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Lagavulin 12 yo ‘Fireside Tales’ (57.4%, OB, Special Releases 2024, first fill and refill bourbon) 
Thus far, Lagavulin's Special Releases have rarely, if ever, let us down—even last year's tequila-seasoned bottling managed to charm us (WF 89). This year, however, we’re back to basics, sticking strictly to bourbon, which bodes well. So, let’s settle in for these Fireside Tales... Once upon a time… Colour: pale gold. Nose: straightforward, even elemental, with fresh plastic, ripe apple, ashes, and green pepper. Quite frankly, that’s just splendid for us. With water: spot on—nothing to change, keep this recipe and repeat until the doctor tells me to hang up my tasting glass. Mouth (neat): the precise, razor-sharp perfection of a young, peppery Lagavulin—lemony, salty, immensely peaty, vibrant, and undeniably bold. These ‘Fireside Tales’ seem to recount battles against all manner of invaders—Saxons, Vikings, Scots, U-boats, even thirsty whisky enthusiasts from all countries. With water: pure brilliance. Smoked lemony mustard with tar, oysters, and green pepper. Finish: yes indeed—smoked lemony mustard, tar, oysters, and green pepper. A faintly honeyed and vanilla-laced signature, likely thanks to the first fill bourbon. Comments: this takes me back to my preferred style, much like the 2007 from 2020. Just one last little favour—please bring back the vintages…
SGP:557 - 91 points. |
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October 27, 2024 |
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A few top cognacs to prepare for November |
After all, cognac pairs well with fallen leaves and the very last mushrooms of the season, doesn’t it? … So why not start with some from the Borderies, the smallest of the crus?
Pied-bleu mushroom, Lepista nuda, formerly Rhodopaxillus nudus. Superb mushroom that grows in winter (Cultiver les Champignons). |
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Fanny Fougerat ‘XO Iris Poivré 10 ans’ (44.6%, OB, Borderies, 888 bottles, 2024)
There was a previous version at a more modest 40% vol. which was nonetheless excellent (WF 86), and here we have a new bottling at a more... whiskyesque strength. Colour: pale gold. Nose: there’s a certain tension here, with some touches of polish, curry, patchouli, and an unusual but very appealing hint of juniper that a malt lover would appreciate. A bit of thuja wood, green apples, notes of jasmine and violets, and only later do you find ripe peach, orange blossom, and sultanas. Mouth: we quite enjoy the relative greenness, that peppery, herbaceous, spicy, and floral side. Poppy seeds, cinnamon, violet sweets, and then some fir honey. The curry notes remain present. Finish: a variety of peppers take over, alongside liquorice, pistachio, and service tree berry eau-de-vie. Comments: pistachio and service tree berries, that always works! A lot of presence in this young version.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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Cognac Park 5 yo ‘Mizunara’ (43.5%, OB, Tessendier, Borderies, +/-2024)
Here’s one of those Cognacs finished in mizunara, as Courvoisier is also now doing. It’s certainly not traditional, but after the initial mild shock, one realises it’s important to keep an open mind. To be honest, I’ve tried it before and found it rather enjoyable. Colour: gold. Nose: it certainly doesn’t have the depth of the Fougerat, but this gentle, woody side—sandalwood, incense, cherry blossom, and Earl Grey tea—works quite well. Just a tiny hint of fir buds. Mouth: it’s rather soft and fresh, but it feels much older than 5 years, no doubt the magic of that mizunara. A lovely trio of liquorice, mint, and raisins. Finish: good length, even more liquorice, but the overall profile remains the same. Comments: not a fan of the pretty hybrid concept, but I quite like the result (so perhaps I was wrong, once again).
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
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Tiffon ‘Très Vieille Réserve Fins Bois’ (40%, OB, +/-2024)
There’s also a Très Vieille Réserve Grande Champagne. This Fins Bois is a blend of very old Cognacs, over 70 years of age, so it strikes me as a bit odd that they’ve reduced it to the bare minimum of 40% vol. Colour: amber. Nose: all about delicacy, with old papers, beeswax, pollen, and a faint coastal touch (sea air, umbrella pines), followed by some splendid honeys, notably heather honey. There’s something precious about it; you almost want to nose it in a large balloon glass aka fishbowl glass like our grandfathers used to do, but we’ll stick to our trusty tulip glasses. Mouth: peach and apricot liqueur, touches of fudge, more of that wonderful heather honey (honestly, there’s an old Highland Park feel here and there), and a very soft pepper. Careful now, at 40%, it slips down like Franz Klammer on the slopes of Kitzbühel. Finish: not so short, with gentle earthy notes, prunes, and pipe tobacco. Comments: inevitably a little frustrating for a malt lover, but this is quite an extraordinary spirit. How to give it a reasonable score?
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
Please another fins bois, s’il-vous-plaît, but at a much higher strength… |
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Mauxion ‘70’s Decade’ (61.2%, Through the Grapevine, LMDW, 42 bottles, 2024)
A micro-bottling composed of strictly all the vintages from the 1970s. The bottling strength is quite remarkable; one imagines some demijohns were involved. Colour: dark gold. Nose: peach liqueur, maple syrup, beeswax, and wood varnish. At 60%, it’s already showing beautifully! With water: the varnish lingers, while bay leaves, cherry stems, and mandarins join the party. Mouth (neat): we’re almost veering towards old bourbon territory, with a touch of Calvados as well. Peach, grape seeds, and glue hold sway with confidence. With water: service tree berries return, alongside fruit skins, and even a hint of banana and pineapple. It’s almost like ‘any’ fully rounded brown spirit of high level. Finish: long, now almost youthful. A bit of liquorice and caramel, reminiscent of a classic French sweet called ‘Batna’ from Kréma. Comments: this one too is just awesome.
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
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François Voyer ‘Lot N°81’ (52.2%, Spirit Co-Op, Grande Champagne, cask #BA-81/1)
The house of François Voyer seems to be making a well-deserved splash among whisky enthusiasts, thanks to a few particularly sharp independent bottlers (this one hailing from China!). Colour: gold. Nose: it’s quite elegant, almost discreet but also very complex, starting with delicate herbs and flowers (mint, borage, wisteria—though wisteria isn’t exactly subtle…) followed by dried fruits, figs, dates, apricots, and a variety of honeys. Really very elegant. With water: admirable notes of hay and the skins of peach and mango. Mouth (neat): superb fruitiness, not so discreet after all. Vineyard peaches reign supreme, resting on a bed of honeys, roses, and muscat. Well, more or less. With water: no real change, except perhaps a hint of persimmon making an appearance. Very good indeed. Finish: long, soft, honeyed. Liquorice in the aftertaste, as is often the case. Comments: have they planted a bit of Gewürztraminer in Grande Champagne? Just kidding. An excellent old Grande Champagne with a magnificent fresh fruitiness.
SGP:751 - 90 points. |
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François Voyer 'Lot No°71' (56.6%, Aesthetic Amber Alchemy, Edward Zeng & Viktor, Grande Champagne, cask #BA-71/1)
Colour: dark amber. Nose: ah yes, we’re back with that lacquered profile, leaning towards polished woods (cherry, thuja) and an array of dried and stewed fruits. Plenty of figs, mind you, with a subtle touch of almonds, cherries, and a hint of kirsch… oh, and peach jam alongside blood orange marmalade. With water: molasses, caramel, and agave syrup—everything harmonising perfectly, as if it were all choreographed. Mouth (neat): oh, absolutely. Glue, pepper, peaches, varnish, pears, dark tobaccos, very deep honeys, cinnamon, jasmine… it all bounces around like a mountain stream. Magnificent countryside Cognac—or something along those lines… With water: utterly classic, utterly brilliant, but do be careful not to add too much water. Finish: precise, almost simple now, with a light earthiness before shifting into menthol and resinous notes. Absolutely adore it. Comments: this is the kind of old Cognac that reminds you it’s not some industrial concoction whipped up in a lab. I’m sure you get what I mean.
SGP:661 - 91 points. |
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Vallein Tercinier 'Lot 74' (50.9%, OB, Wealth Solutions for Harmony Whisky & The Antelope Macau, Fins bois, 2024)
Colour: full gold. Nose: quite amusingly, you can really sense the more rustic character of certain 'bois' here, with whiffs of rubber boots, old apples, freshly cut grass, mosses and ferns, old woods in the forest, and mushrooms… but there are also peaches, apples, honey and all that. With water: the old apples and musty cellar vibes become even more pronounced. Mouth (neat): old calvados, pepper, rubber, old apples, lemons, oak honeydew… With water: not much change on the palate either. Finish: medium length, with hay, mosses, mushrooms, and still those old apples. Some figs add a touch of sweetness in the aftertaste. Comments: I find this style absolutely charming, with a little nostalgic twist that reminds one of the famous The Connells’ ballad '74 – '75. Just a bit…
SGP:451 - 90 points. |
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Jean-Luc Pasquet 50 'Lot 70' (52.1%, Maltbarn, Grande Champagne, 84 bottles, 2024)
Over 50 years in well-behaved oak, and hold on tight—it’s 2% of the price asked by several Speyside distilleries for the same age, and for what might be lesser spirits. That’s enough to make a brick weep. Colour: full gold. Nose: honestly, this could pass for a great old Speyside of similar age. I mean it. Honey, very ripe melon and mango, white chocolate, butterscotch sauce, roasted nuts, peach and apricot jam, a very light smoky note, toasted bread, and dare I say it, shades of 1950s Macallan. With water: superb, with the faintest metallic touches. Mouth (neat): splendid fruitiness, honeys, roasted hazelnuts, tiny touches of molasses, a bit of sherry (though of course, there’s none), marrons glacés, and a hint of mocha. With water: hints of camphor, sultanas, and a touch of eucalyptus. Finish: long yet gentle. Oranges, mint, a drop of olive oil, and a beautifully liquorice-laced aftertaste. Comments: and of course, guaranteed without paxarette or… French brandy. Well, there obviously is some of that (not paxarette mind you).
SGP:651 - 92 points. |
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Zind Humbrecht 1998-2002-2003/2024 (57%, Amateur Spirit, eau-de-vie de vin, Pinot Noir Heimbourg)
Technically, this is a fine, meaning an eau-de-vie de vin much like Cognac. The wine used is Pinot Noir, as in Burgundy, though the terroir is incredibly close to WF HQ—barely a hare’s leap away (I can see it from my desk). Colour: deep gold. Nose: it opens with a lovely mix of glue, varnish, and acetone, which we always appreciate when well-balanced, followed by moss, ferns, grape stems, rich soil, and saffron, with hints of quince, apricot, and celery. There's absolutely nothing 'winey' about it. With water: water brings out a delightful wave of baked goods, particularly amaretti and other almond biscuits with a touch of bitter almonds. Mouth (neat): powerful and much more expressive on the palate, packed with spices giving it a distinctly oriental vibe. Think turmeric, paprika, saffron again, candied lemons, those bitter almonds, and finally black cherries—such a Pinot Noir marker. The wood is well in check. With water: the texture thickens and it bounces around your mouth like a superball. Spices, candied fruits, and even a faint hint of salinity. Then again, the sea was still here, after all, only about thirty million years ago. Finish: long, candied, spicy, and peppery. You could almost imagine enjoying this eau-de-vie with some robust Indian cuisine. The bitter almond note makes a comeback in the aftertaste. Comments: I’m not sure whether it’s oak or beech—the Domaine uses both for their eaux-de-vie—but the result is quite thunderous (update: it’s oak). Naturally, we adore it.
SGP: 672 - 90 points. |
Alright, I think we'll try to add more aged wine eaux-de-vie and marcs matured in wood to our cognac or armagnac tastings over the next few months. |
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October 25, 2024 |
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The last Japanese and a little red wine
The last for now, of course. Some older classics soon. |
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Ichiro’s Malt & Grain ‘Red Wine cask’ (59.8%, OB for Spirits of Salud, single blend, Château Gruaud Larose, 272 bottles, 2023) 
Seemingly a single blend given a double maturation in that red wine barrique for 3.5 years. So, we’ve got a mix of malt, grain, French oak and a splash of very young Saint-Julien. Right, here we go, hang tight... Colour: apricot. Nose: a touch of green pepper and sulphur at first, followed by soot, burnt nuts, and some dark nougat. There’s potting soil and dried mint leaves in there too. With water: not much of interest for me, to be honest. A bit like a tired barrel—after all, that’s what it is. And let’s not forget that these casks often hold very young wines indeed, practically undrinkable, since the best Bordeaux ages in the bottle after its time in oak. Mouth (neat): rather odd. Bitter oranges, green peppers, allspice, and ginger. With water: a slight improvement. Melted red peppers, chocolate, aubergine, and black pepper. Finish: long but a touch dissonant, with some cassis and overripe strawberries emerging towards the end. Comments: given how crucial vintages are for Bordeaux wines, they really ought to tell us which vintage the cask did hold. One of those very rare Chichibu (and co.) releases I truly don’t care for, though the other two ‘Spirits of Salud’ editions were absolutely, utterly, totally splendid! (WF 90 and WF 91).
SGP:671 - 70 points. |
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Chichibu 8 yo 2016/2024 ‘Bordeaux Red Wine cask’ (65.5%, OB, LMDW Foundations, cask #14044, 268 bottles)
Finished in Pauillac instead of St Julien, but this one’s a single malt. Colour: gold (thank goodness). Nose: much better, no sulphur this time, with a hint of pine resin and, well, classic Chichibu. There’s also a whiff of blood orange. With water: quite pleasant, with notes of cake, cherry stalk herbal tea, and puffs of peony, but no real red wine influence… Mouth (neat): not bad at all, again leaning towards citrus and pink peppercorns, with a handful of cherries and some black pepper. But it’s (cough) very strong. With water: yes, quite nice indeed, with the return of those blood oranges and a touch of Szechuan pepper. Finish: rather long, with strawberries, pepper, and a hint of fir honey. Comments: we were on edge the whole time, but in the end, it’s definitely Chichibu.
SGP:661 - 83 points. |
We'll see if the impact of European oak is really as significant as they say... |
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Mars Tsunuki 4 yo 2020/2024 ‘Tsunuki aging’ (60.3%, OB, LMDW Foundations, Spanish Virgin oak, cask #T1880, 283 bottles)
Colour: dark red copper. Nose: well, this is both unusual and charming. We’ve got old plum eau-de-vie (vieille prune), some beautifully ripe wild strawberries, eucalyptus, thyme, a hefty dose of top-notch PX, a hint of marc de Bourgogne, and camphor… Can all of this really come just from fresh Spanish oak? With water: wilder notes now, with morels, mosses, eucalyptus wood, and caramel emerging… Mouth (neat): oh, but this is excellent! I’m not sure what they’ve done to that poor Spanish oak in terms of toasting, but it’s worked wonders. There’s old Demerara rum (think mature Port Mourant), chocolate, more of that old plum, some super-strong Trappist ale, and toffee… With water: absolutely superb, now with added tobacco, bay leaves, and blood orange. Finish: long, with cracked pepper, coriander seeds, sweet woodruff, and a hint of Belgian mandarin liqueur. Comments: what a brilliant discovery! I would have guessed a single malt from a tiny distillery in Washington state. After all, that’s not too far away (we’ll chip in and get you an atlas, S.).
SGP:652 - 89 points. |
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Mars Komagatake 5 yo 2018/2024 ‘Komagatake Aging’ (62%, OB, LMDW Foundations, bourbon, cask #4295, 180 bottles)
Colour: light gold. Nose: macarons, biscuits, custard, nougat, apricot cake, and all kinds of melons. How could anyone object to that? With water: gummi bears and a bag of pear-flavoured sweets. A nose that brings out the child in us. There’s also a hint of fresh plaster in the background. Mouth (neat): my word, this is excellent. Vanilla, mint, orange, varnish, kiwi, and white Meursault. And yes, I’ll say it again, red Meursaults do exist. With water: such intense fruitiness! Perfect use of the bourbon cask, though the lychees in syrup and ripe pear may come across as just a tad dominant. Finish: medium length, more on citrus, with a touch of candied angelica at the end. Comments: I think we’ve pulled things back nicely here (feeling smug, S.?).
SGP:641 - 90 points. |
Last one. Next Japanese station, not before December. Unless, no wait, a bag of old Nikkas just came in, it’s going to be hard to resist... |
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Shizuoka ‘Pot Still K Japanese Barley 2023 Edition’ (55.5%, OB, 2023)
Well, I rather doubt anyone would be able to tell the difference between foreign barley and Japanese barley in the whisky. Hmm, indeed. Colour: light gold. Nose: flour, fresh bread, baker’s yeast, grapefruit, fougasse, crushed slate, and... yuzu. Of course, yuzu. With water: imagine lemon juice and crushed chalk, worked together with a pestle. Try to picture that. Mouth (neat): we love this rustic, farmyard style, so close to the raw ingredients. Grapefruit seeds, grist, chalk, focaccia, lemon liqueur... With water: similar, but a touch smoother, with a little apple juice peeking through. Finish: fairly long, with similar flavours. A chalky and slightly drying aftertaste. Comments: it’s a fairly straightforward malt, but everything works together very nicely. I find it much better than the first edition we tasted in July last year (WF 83), though Shizuoka has produced even grander expressions.
SGP:461 – 87 points. |
Well, Mars rather crushed the competition today, perhaps due to the absence of red Bordeaux in it. |
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October 24, 2024 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today young Oban |
Fresh green walnuts (Specialty Produce) |
No independent bottlings of Oban for quite a few decades. We love Oban, a shame we get so few chances to taste it. |
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Oban 11 yo ‘Hand Filled’ (57.5%, OB, Batch #5, August 2024)
This distillery-only bottling from this past summer surely holds a superb Oban, doesn’t it? It doesn’t say, but in theory, this should be ex-bourbon. Colour: white wine. Nose: magnificent, taut, slightly mustardy, salty, precise, and wonderfully austere. Oban’s potential is quite astonishing—if I may humbly offer my opinion, they ought to release a few more parcels. There’s a hint of seawater and some passing periwinkles. With water: a lot of soot, old tools, old British car engine, and paraffin. Mouth (neat): splendid. Smoked lemon, more mustard, cider apple, and perhaps a small spoonful of caviar. A touch of horseradish too. With water: it softens up but stays rather oily (thanks to those condensers), with peppered lemon and a few sardines, joining the periwinkles from the nose. Finish: long, more citrus now. Small pickled lemons and smoked salmon. Comments: an exceptional distillate, with a Brora-esque edge. Just one small question—have you ever tried the old Oban 32-year-old 1969 OB? If not, you really should.
SGP:562 - 89 points. |
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Oban 10 yo ‘Coastal Orchard’ (58%, OB, Special Releases 2024, oloroso finish)
Quite the ‘Country Life’ label, isn’t it? Though to be fair, there are almost tropical zones up north on Scotland’s west coast. Keyword: almost. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s more closed than the hand-filled, perhaps due to the sherry influence. That said, there’s a touch of fortified wine alongside the usual salty, mustardy notes we adore. A hint of menthol too. It's getting there… With water: green walnuts have taken over, which is excellent news. Mouth (neat): this is really pretty good. Salty, with tart apples, mustard, green sherry walnuts, lime, and a faint detergent note which, contrary to what you might think, is rather lovely in this context. With water: tart apples, cacao, lemon juice, fresh parsley, and a bit of Riesling. Finish: fairly long, with mustard and seawater making a comeback. The tart apples and fresh walnuts then take charge. Comments: I think Oban is vastly underrated. If some indies could release a few well-crafted single casks, it would do wonders for this ‘hidden gem’s’ reputation. Not that it's any of my business, but exposure is key.
SGP:562 - 86 points. |
 Check the index of all Oban we've tasted so far
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October 23, 2024 |
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A few whiskies from around the world, from China to France |
Many countries are becoming less and less ‘niche’, while the new Chinese malts—at least the few we've already had the chance to taste—are starting to overturn the country's reputation for spirits of this kind. Gone are the days when all we could find in China, in terms of local whisky production, was ‘Red Labial’, ‘Chivelse Royal’, or the infamous ‘Johns Daphne Tenderness Whiskey’, dressed up exactly like Jack. |
Domaine des Hautes-Glaces in the French Alps (DHG) |
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Daiking ‘Classic Single Malt’ (40%, OB, China, bourbon cask, +/-2024) 
From Pinghe county in Zhangzhou, southeastern China (Fujian). Having started distilling in 2016, Daiking has already added two more still houses. Their first single malt, powered by pure mountain water, a medal from the World Whisky Awards (of course), and Forsyths stills, was launched in 2020. This is their entry-level expression. Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s quite nice, light, with notes of bread, baker’s yeast, clay, and soft honey, along with apple juice, a touch of ginger, and cinnamon. Really appreciate that it hasn’t been overly dressed up using fanciful casks. Mouth: similarly light, with barley, apple, and a bit more wood than on the nose. There are also some assorted fruit peels (melon perhaps). Finish: medium but rather pleasant. Apple and cinnamon. Comments: absolutely faultless, you’re somewhat in very good Scottish blend territory. A few more degrees of alcohol would probably do it a world of good.
SGP: 441 - 78 points. |
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Daiking ‘Distillery Select’ (43%, OB, China, single malt, bourbon cask, +/-2024)
And here’s a version with a bit more horsepower… By the way, no caramel is added to Daiking’s malts. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s very close, extremely close to the Classic. Mouth: it really feels like the same juice with a few more watts, but there’s also a touch more acidity, with green apple, lemon, and raw rhubarb. Nothing to complain about here, it’s clearly – and surprisingly – good. Certainly not a whisky for AliExpress! Finish: rather long, with lovely spices, still cinnamon and ginger, but now with a bit of turmeric as well. I could even mention ginseng, but that might just be my brain playing tricks on me. Comments: definitely not a ‘tourist’ malt, if you know what I mean. Pretty, pretty good.
SGP: 441 - 80 points. |
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Daiking ‘Distillery Select Green Brand’ (46%, OB, China, single malt, bourbon cask, +/-2024)
Well, would you look at that, there’s even a 46% version. If that’s truly the case, it’s quite amusing to see them offering similar whiskies at different strengths, much like the Scots used to do a long time ago… 70, 80, 100° proof, and so on. Colour: straw. Nose: the bourbon cask shows itself more here, with the usual vanilla alongside hints of banana and mango, but the fresh bread, sourdough, apple, and honey are still present. Mouth: more spice-driven, and honestly, I’m not sure it’s exactly the same juice after all. There’s more green tannin and lemon zest, but everything remains very cohesive. It’s slightly reminiscent of recent ex-US oak expressions from the tall stills of Tain (not Tain l’Hermitage, mind you). Finish: rather long, lovely, with a slight touch of varnish, more apples, green pepper, and unripe bananas. Comments: it seems to be crafted with the utmost care. I think you could fool quite a few people in a blind tasting—just need to work on the age statements.
SGP: 551 - 82 points. |
We have other Daikings (please note, it's not 'Daikin'), but we will have them soon. |
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Goalong ‘Small Batch #5’ (48%, OB, China, 2023)
We had tried one of Hunan’s Goalong at 40% a few months ago and found it rather decent (WF 75). Colour: white wine. Nose: very subdued, with notes of tapioca, polenta, white beer, then shortbread and plain English white bread. A few faint touches of fennel or dill, but otherwise, it remains quite restrained in terms of aromas. Mouth: a bit too woody, which is a shame, but there are also pleasant hints of Williams pear. Once again, a bit of ginger and even a touch of ginseng (yes, really). Finish: long, with lemony spices. Comments: it would fit well among the crowd of new malt whiskies from all over the world, giving it a slightly ‘international’ feel. Much like the Daikings, in fact. It’s well-made with no obvious flaws.
SGP: 551 - 78 points. |
Let's take a look at Korea... |
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Ki.One (46%, OB, Korea, virgin American oak, +/-2024)
The second Korean distillery we’ll have tried after the superb little Kimchangsoos. The distillery itself is nestled just outside Seoul. Colour: gold. Nose: with virgin oak, it’s always tricky to discern much in the way of ‘terroir’—or perhaps it’s the oak’s own terroir at play—but this lovely charred, banana-forward profile certainly hits the spot. There’s a bit of white chocolate, vanilla custard, nougat, and a medley of papayas and ripe apples too. Mouth: a tad more ‘out of the box’ (vive la différence!) with notes of blood orange, toffee apples, and a few creamy liqueurs. Let’s call it a Korean banana liqueur—should our friends ever make such a thing. Finish: medium in length, sweet and clean, showcasing classic virgin oak characteristics with those fruits lingering alongside a hint of chocolate and a subtle touch of masala. Comments: very good indeed, a bit international in style, yet again, but in the most flattering way. That’s the magic of virgin oak, I suppose.
SGP:641 - 83 points. |
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Old Bakery Whisky 8 yo (47.2%, OB, England, London Malt Whisky, finished in Cuban rum barrels, +/-2024)
A fun bottle from a distillery with infectious enthusiasm (in the best way!). They also make gin, but then again, who doesn’t these days? Colour: straw. Nose: there’s a lovely freshness here with notes of warm bread, hints of white asparagus, and tiny bananas (Cuban, naturally), followed by wafts of cornflour and greengages. The retro-style packaging feels perfectly in tune with this slightly old-school nose. You’ll find subtle rum touches in the background too (think diesel, molasses). Mouth: fuller-bodied, with a more modern twist and a touch of spice. Satay, paprika, and even a bit of brass (let’s say old trouser buttons—why not?), alongside a chalky note and cinnamon apples. There’s also a nod to North African sweet bread and amlou (a heavenly mix of Atlas honey, argan oil, and crushed almonds—one-third of each, it’s sublime). Finish: the amlou and satay sauce keep doing their thing. The aftertaste is gorgeously honeyed with a touch of mocha. Comments: there’s a slight woodiness right at the end, but overall, it has that charming, slightly artisanal feel that makes these smaller whiskies so delightful. And London, baby.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
Oh, drat, we forgot to start from little France, as we always do. Never mind, we'll finish with one of the French stars... |
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Domaine des Hautes-Glaces 2016/2024 ‘Epistémé’ (44%, OB, France, single track #B16D24+red square)
The code suggests this is barley, distilled in 2016, with the ‘D’ seemingly linked to degrees of some sort (not entirely clear), and bottled in 2024. The red square? No clue, I might have forgotten what that means. But all of this adds a bit of charm, and I do like it when whiskies retain a sense of mystery. Colour: light gold. Nose: well, the trouble is, we’re quite smitten with Domaine des Hautes-Glaces, so perhaps we’re a tad biased. Is that a problem, doctor? This nose is simply sublime—it’s like stepping into a bakery at half four in the morning, with a glass of fine white Jura or Loire in hand. Say a glass of each. There’s also the faintest touch of Muscat and sultanas, alongside freshly baked croissants and sourdough bread. It’s a magnificent nose, with a freshness that’s utterly invigorating. Mouth: earthy, with hints of fermenting fruits, a touch of root vegetables (parsnips, perhaps?), and fruity, freshly baked bread. Lovely raisins, though I’ve no idea where they’ve come from—perhaps the casks? Finish: elegantly long, with a whisper of ash and African spices. Fenugreek and capers, maybe? Comments: absolutely top-decile among the young ‘single’ whiskies of continental Europe. Oh, and including the islands too. A high-fashion whisky—if it ages for 20 years, it’ll hit 92 points, guaranteed (if I may say so—and if any of it is left).
SGP:551 - 90 points. |
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October 22, 2024 |
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A little trio of Balvenie
Balvenie is also one of those brands increasingly using unusual casks for finishing, but firstly, we've always held the utmost respect for Balvenie, and secondly, they were among the pioneers with their renowned ‘Doublewood’, ‘Islay Cask’, and ‘Portwood’. So, we can hardly accuse them of just jumping on the bandwagon.
(Always been a fan of The Balvenie Guy - print ad, circa 2005) |
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Balvenie 14 yo (47.8%, OB, A Collection of Curious Casks, American bourbon barrel, 2024)
Well, of course, an ex-bourbon barrel could hardly qualify as a ‘curious cask,’ and I do hope it never will, but it seems the good folk at Balvenie have detected some unusual smoky notes here. I suspect that might have come from the previous contents of the barrel. Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s absolutely beautiful, reminiscent of a top-tier Chenin Blanc (Savennières, perhaps?) with a touch of gunflint. Honeysuckle, white currants, pink grapefruit, chalk, and a few hints of soot and saltpetre, followed by very restrained vanilla. The balance is superb. For now, the smoke is more of the ‘flinty’ variety. Mouth: wonderful lemony tension, with more flint and chalk, perhaps even a suggestion of cigarette ash (brings to mind the days when one might smoke outdoors in a strong wind), then green apple and indeed a whisper of lapsang souchong tea, though perhaps only half of a small cup, the kind they sometimes use in China. Finish: the classic Balvenie markers come through—quince and mirabelle plums—then a touch of acacia honey, but overall it stays delightfully taut, with a hint of salinity in the aftertaste. Comments: very good indeed. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
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Balvenie 18 yo (47.9%, OB, A Collection of Curious Casks, French pineau cask finish, 2024)
I do wonder what’s going on with all these pineau casks popping up in Scotland these days. Just a reminder, pineau (not pinot) is grape must fortified with cognac (from the Charentes region), so it’s not exactly ‘wine’. If we let our friends north of Hadrian’s Wall carry on like this, we’ll soon have pineau in mizunara oak casks. That’ll be a laugh... Don’t get me wrong, there are some exceptional pineaux from the Charentes, but much like with sherry, I doubt the superstars are being used for these finishings. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s reminiscent of Sauternes or Monbazillac finishes—sweet, fruity, and syrupy, with honey, ripe peaches, and apricots leading the charge. There’s also some very ripe mirabelle plum (the kind that turns almost red), though whether that comes from the pineau or from Balvenie itself, I couldn’t say. A touch of ale reminds us it’s still whisky. Mouth: the same impression, though it’s a bit tighter than expected. Pink grapefruit, tangerines, honey, prickly pears, a dash of lychee in syrup, and a very, very slight hint of grape stem. That mirabelle, however, is nowhere to be found on the palate. Finish: medium length, with a nice fruity balance—Starkrimson apples, Belle de Boskoop, and a bit of grapefruit skin on the aftertaste. Comments: a lovely balancing act, though I still count myself among those who believe whisky should be ‘dry’. So, I do rather prefer the 14.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
Hop, a little Burnside... |
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Burnside 27 yo 1996/2024 (52.9%, Halcyon Spirits, blended malt, release #4, sherry finish)
Burnside, one of those brands that has done so much to restore the reputation of teaspoons, both in Scotland and far beyond. They deserve a medal (perhaps in nickel silver or vermeil). Colour: deep gold. Nose: quite a different story, dominated by polish and varnish, almost like a young bourbon with a high rye content. Perhaps it’s from the cask used before the sherry finishing? People occasionally mention pumpernickel, but here there’s really quite a lot of it, along with a handful of small Cuban cigars—the kind JFK might have smoked after the American embargo, possibly Davidoff’s Haut-Brion. Do as I say, not as I do… With water: similar, but now with more plasticine and new car interior. A bit like fresh plastic from Temu or AliExpress, oddly enjoyable despite the chemical notes. Mouth (neat): superb, very much on the sherry side, with walnuts, mild mustard, and damp earth, very ‘amontillado’. With water: gone are the quirky e-commerce notes, replaced by mustard, green walnuts, tobacco, and small cider apples. Finish: long and zesty, with fruit peels and more amontillado in the aftertaste. Or perhaps vin jaune. Comments: quite a surprise. The idea seemed strange, but the result is simply perfect. What a sherry!
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
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October 21, 2024 |
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A trio of Talisker
Now that it’s been announced that the distillery is going to be rebuilt, somewhat like Caol Ila was in the mid-1970s, perhaps we could do a very brief retrovertical tasting, what do you think? Let’s not forget that Talisker had already been rebuilt around 1960-1962 after a fire. |
Analcime crystals, a typical zeolite mineral
from Talisker Bay (Place des Minéraux) |
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Tactical 27 yo 1973/2001 (46%, Douglas Laing, Old Malt Cask, 264 bottles)
The actual name, in fact, was ‘Directors Tactical Selection’, but Douglas Laing, and later its two branches following the brothers' split, were able to use the ‘Talisker’ brand name. This Talisker was distilled using barley from Glen Ord Maltings (just like Brora was), as its own maltings had closed, I believe the year prior. Colour: pale gold. Nose: absolutely beautiful, like stepping into an artist’s studio with oil paints, charcoal, fixative, turpentine, linseed oil, and old rags scattered about. Then, there’s a touch of citron, silver polish, and some very polite seaweed, perhaps even a few cooked whelks. Mouth: truly exceptional, reminiscent of the old official bottlings (particularly the 8-year-old), with an immediate hit of brine, followed by grapefruit and smoked oysters. It’s packed with iodine and ash, and again, those ‘old tubes of oil paint’ come to mind. Let’s call it Veronese green (why not?). Finish: long, salty, with a distinct Manzanilla note. Comments: there’s something wonderfully old-fashioned about this, with the peat so perfectly woven in—it’s a part of the whisky, not just laid on top, as can sometimes happen these days. One wonders if we paid enough attention to Talisker when bottles like this were available... I imagine we did.
SGP:465 – 93 points. |
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Tactical 19 yo 1980/2000 (50%, Douglas Laing, Old Malt Cask, 348 bottles)
This one also slipped under our noses back in the day. To be fair, it was all about Ardbeg back then, wasn’t it? Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s amazing how much simpler and more straightforward this is, leaning more on smoked almonds and lapsang souchong. Yet it’s still a very lovely whisky, no doubt about it. Pencil shavings, soot, ashes, and sea water. With water: hints of mint leaves, toasted sesame oil, and a touch of Bakelite. Mouth (neat): iodine tincture, sea water, lemon juice, and ashes. Still very good, though much more straightforward than the 1973. With water: a decidedly modern Talisker. We’ll see more of that in just a few moments. Loads of ashes here. Finish: long. Lime, iodine, and ashes, with a bit of that signature pepper. Comments: excellent, but I think it sits in the shadow of the marvellous 1973.
SGP:366 – 87 points. |
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Talisker 8 yo ‘Tidal Churn’ (58.7%, OB, Stone-spun and re-toasted finish, Special Releases 2024)
I see they're saying, ‘the barrels’ original char layers are polished away by rocks and water, then lightly re-toasted.’ Sounds quite techy (AI idea?), but it’s surely better than a tequila or shiraz finish. It reminds me of last year’s very old Talisker, where the finishing casks had been exposed to extreme cold and somehow ‘cracked’. Perhaps next year they’ll play Led Zeppelin to the casks—or better yet, the Oysterband with the delightful June Tabor. Colour: white wine. Nose: not sure if it’s the treatment that’s bringing out all this fruitiness—there’s pear liqueur and ripe apples—but it’s certainly quite fruity for a Talisker, and barely peaty. For now. With water: the maritime side surfaces, with sea water, seaweed, oysters, ashes, and a few drops of cider vinegar. Mouth (neat): more maritime now, salty, slightly sharp, with plenty of ashes and pepper. Very young. With water: there we go, we’ve arrived at a simple but good young Talisker. One to buy by the pallet and stash in a cellar for thirty years or more. Any volunteers among the younger malt fans? Finish: fairly long, fruitier again, with the pear returning, some ash, and still that touch of cider vinegar. Comments: it almost feels like a blended malt—50% Talisker, and let’s say 50% Glenkinchie. Really ‘very good’.
SGP:655 – 85 points. |
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October 20, 2024 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
How about we have a few more rums? |
A bit of everything, as usual, but with a clear focus on blue chips, indies or official ones. To start, our traditional aperitif, which always helps us get back on track... |
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English Harbour 5 yo (40%, OB, Antigua, +/-2023) 
We tasted this around ten years ago, and it was decent (WF 73), but a bit too soft for our liking. It seems they import molasses from Guyana and the Dominican Republic, maturing their rums in old bourbon barrels. Antigua, by the way, is just north of Guadeloupe, just past Montserrat. Colour: gold. Nose: it opens on cane honey and sugar syrup, followed by pineapple liqueur and triple sec, with just a hint of herbal tea. A touch of cinnamon as well. Mouth: really soft, sweet, with cane syrup and, once again, orange liqueur. There’s a bit of mellow vanilla, but it leans a little towards spiced or flavoured rum territory. Lacks depth, very light. Finish: very short, with a slight woodiness alongside the cane syrup. Comments: it’s a fairly good rum, but there’s really not much going on. I liked it better ten years ago.
SGP:730 - 65 points. |
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Privateer 4.75 yo ‘Yankee’ (55.7%, OB for Kirsch Import, USA, Letter of Marque, 1st use American oak, 216 bottles, 2024)
Made from Guatemalan molasses, distilled and aged in Massachusetts for 4 years and 9 months. Here’s hoping our friends in the US will one day be allowed to distill Cuban molasses – why not? Colour: gold. Nose: similarly light but leaning more towards oranges and sugar candy. There's a pleasantly earthy side too, along with that familiar coconut/vanilla combo typical of young bourbons. With water: muscovado sugar comes to the fore, with very light hints of petrol and coal tar. Mouth (neat): this is a good rum, somewhat reminiscent of the lighter styles from Belize or Barbados. Oranges, honey, vanilla, ripe bananas... It’s fairly woody but remains balanced (pepper). With water: again, those very light tarry notes reappear, but mostly it’s all about honey and cane sugar. Finish: medium length, becoming slightly more herbaceous (bagasse), though the aftertaste remains on the sweeter side. Comments: really good, fairly light – you could easily think this came from an island rather than Massachusetts.
SGP:641 - 82 points. |
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Savanna 10 yo 2013/2024 ‘Unshared Cask’ (49.8%, OB for Germany, La Réunion, ex-cognac cask, cask #778, 640 bottles)
This is a ‘traditional’ rum, meaning it’s made from molasses and distilled in a column still, it is not agricole. Colour: gold. Nose: Savanna almost always delivers depth, and it’s no different here, with notes of camphor, ylang-ylang, very ripe oranges, fresh ink (like today’s magazines), and light acetone, in a ‘petit grand arôme’ style. Absolutely spot-on for me, at least on the nose. Mouth: superb, rather medicinal, with touches of varnish, resins, eucalyptus, super-ripe fruits, and the expected salted liquorice (moderately salted, mind you). Finish: long, with salted liquorice, ripe banana, and more of those faint varnish touches. Comments: we do make good rums in France, don’t we? Forgive my brief moment of pride, thank you. That said, I didn’t really pick up on the cognac, though I’m sure it was there, lurking behind the bananas.
SGP:552 - 87 points. |
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Bielle 7 yo 2016/2023 ‘Brut de Fût’ (54.2%, OB, Marie-Galante, agricole)
As you may know, Marie-Galante is part of Guadeloupe, and Bielle truly stands out as a shining star. Colour: gold. Nose: a marvel of peanut butter, cocoa, liquorice, cloves, cane juice, and shoe polish. Perfect precision. With water: not much change, except for a delightful note of rhubarb stewed in cane syrup. Mouth (neat): the agricole character is very pronounced, with a wonderful rusticity and even a wild ‘aguardiente’ edge. Despite being from a creole column still, it feels like pot still rum. With water: the cask seems to have been fairly active, but never overwhelms the distillate. Perhaps just a light butterscotch note… Aside from that, there’s chestnut honey and still plenty of liquorice. Finish: long, more on the earthy side, but also floral and resinous. Some discreetly spicy wood starts to emerge. Comments: a rustic style, yet with extraordinary elegance. In fact, it’s very ‘terroir’. I love it.
SGP:552 - 89 points. |
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Vietnam 6 yo 2008/2024 (56.9%, LMDW Flag Series, 414 bottles)
Hey, this is our very first Vietnamese rum, so it calls for a toast! This version is ‘secret,’ but we’ve heard of a ‘Distillerie d’Indochine’ where the rum ‘Sampan’ is made, though sadly we’ve yet to try it. Colour: gold. Nose: those folks at La Maison du Whisky (LMDW) are real pioneers. There’s a faint shochu-like note here, along with friendly esters (gentle but noticeable), and a fermenty, saline character with hints of new tyres. Over it all floats a note of ripe white peach. With water: the tyre and tar come to the fore, joined by burnt walnuts and a few black olives preserved in… acetone. In short, we love it. Mouth (neat): very good, with a surprisingly ‘malt whisky’ feel, but of course also peppery, salty cane sugar. And a fair amount of ethanol, so… With water: excellent. Lemon, rubber, liquorice… Finish: same profile lingering for quite some time, with some menthol at the end. Comments: it’s no surprise that the quality is high—if it weren’t, it wouldn’t be in this range (free publicity is no publicity, is it). At least, I think that’s the case, though everyone can be wrong. In any case, bravo Vietnam, a new player in the world of top-notch rum!
SGP:563 - 88 points. |
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Jamaican Rum 23 yo (57%, Wu Dram Clan, Jamaican blend, 2024)
What a lovely label. Colour: full gold. Nose: very Jamaican, very ‘high-esters,’ but with a delightful fruity roundness (apricot, banana) wrapping around the rubber, tar, salmiak, olives, brine, tiny ammonia notes, seaweed, petrol, and new plastic (think new iPhone). With water: same, no change at all, except perhaps some added rust-proof paint and linoleum. Mouth (neat): forget it, this is just excellent, with more tropical fruits than usual this time, especially ultra-ripe mangoes. The rest sticks to the usual Jamaican hallmarks: motor oil, tar, salted liquorice, and so on. With water: exceptional, salty, tarry, drier again, but less ‘chemical’ (if you know what I mean). Finish: very strong black tea, salt, tar, liquorice, and all of it staying with you until at least tomorrow morning. Comments: we loved that brief, if fleeting, appearance of mango. Perhaps the best rum blend of the year... even if it’s not particularly balanced – but I suppose that wasn’t the goal. Perfect.
SGP:463 - 91 points. |
Just to check something... |
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Hampden 13 yo 2010/2024 ‘LROK’ (60%, OB, Jamaica, Magnum Series #2, Alex Webb Edition, 1,080 bottles)
LROK, as you may know, denotes a medium ester count, typically around 200-400 grams of esters per HLPA. Colour: dark gold. Nose: razor-sharp precision here, with varnish, a touch of rubber, and fruit that’s so ripe it’s practically teetering over the edge into fermentation, especially plums. Glorious, naturally. With water: it softens, becomes more civilised, but still those fermented plums are front and centre. Frankly, there aren’t many aromas on this planet as heavenly as that, I assure you. Perhaps a faint hint of Moutai too? Mouth (neat): a kind-hearted monster, both ultra-powerful and balanced, between varnish and mandarins. Water is absolutely essential. With water: the plum wine comes back with great fanfare. Then there’s seawater, olives, tar, very dry liquorice, smoke (lapsang souchong), brine, pickles... Well, we knew it would be gorgeous, and they’ve even done magnums. A stroke of genius, if you ask me. Finish: long, of course. Softer, less aggressive, almost agreeable. Almost. Comments: what’s happening with Hampden these days reminds me of the early 2000s with Ardbeg—there were just so many exceptional ones!
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
We could maybe just have another little Caroni 1998… |
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Caroni 1998/2019-2024 (70.2%, Velier, Paradise #10, Trinidad, cask #3927, dame-jeanne #1, ‘Emerald and Sun Dancers’, 115 bottles)
This 1998 Caroni ‘heavy’ rum, bottled at a jaw-dropping 70.2% by Velier as part of their Paradise series, spent its early years ageing in Trinidad before being moved to glass dame-jeannes in France for that special ‘paradise’ treatment, a technique borrowed from Cognac. Colour: gold. Nose: absolutely wild, with that eyebrow-raising ABV making quite an impression—did you notice? Buckets of oil paint, fresh putty, turpentine, burnt pinewood, and paraffin... Honestly, it’s completely mad. With water: here comes a tidal wave of soy sauce, glutamate, walnut stain, and enough Barbour grease to outfit an entire Glasgow department store. It’s futile to resist. Mouth (neat): a proper explosion—handle with care, or it might just catapult you into the great beyond. Think liquorice diluted in petrol, if you dare. With water: surprisingly civilized now, offering ripe bananas with a varnish glaze, fresh paint, plasticine, and pine bud liqueur. Although, before you know it, you’re chewing on something reminiscent of a pencil eraser. Finish: very long, taking a turn towards resinous wood and even a touch of ash. You might feel like you’re gnawing on a pair of rubber wellies, but bizarrely, it works perfectly here. The aftertaste? Even more petrolic. Comments: what more can one say?
SGP:373 - 91 points. |
Check the index of all rum we've tasted so far |
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October 19, 2024 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Two Kilchoman
Islay's farm distillery is going to be twenty years old next year, it'll also co-incidentally be twenty years since I started working at Ardbeg as a tour guide. Time continues its relentless onward march! But it's also the reason that there are more and more Kilchomans above ten years old on the market these days, which is great news as almost all that I could try so far have been excellent. We'll check in with two more of them today... |
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Kilchoman 10 yo 2013/2023 '100% Islay' (55.5%, OB for Kensington Wine Market, cask #27, bourbon barrel, 243 bottles) 
Colour: straw. Nose: very maritime at first, with strong impressions of rock pools, beach sand, wet kelp and shellfish broth. But there's also a bone-dry ashy note, along with oily sheep wool, wet plaster, puffer smoke and mineral salts. Extremely precise and sharp! With water: an almost acrid, brittle smokiness, wood ashes and freshly starched linens. More impressions of seawater, wet plaster, limestone and a tiny peeling of grapefruit skin. Mouth: rather herbal and oily up front, lots of ashy and lemon peat smoke, tar, whelks, cornichons in brine and mercurochrome. Pristine and very chiselled once again. With water: smoked olive oil, lemon barley water, sardines in oil, camphor, pure peat smoke and some TCP. Finish: long, salty, tarry, rather a lot of bacon rind and pork scratching and some preserved lemons in brine. Comments: amazing precision and purity, and another one that seems to tread a very fine line between seashore and farmyard, no doubt a whisky that would have Serge reaching for his beloved 'millimetric' descriptor...
SGP: 367 - 88 points. |
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Kilchoman 11 yo 2011/2023 (54.5%, OB for The Whisky Show, cask #771, bourbon barrel)
Colour: bright straw. Nose: similarly focussed on maritime qualities, wet pebbles, rock pool, mineral salts, coastal flowers and drying seaweed. Also some charmingly bright lemony notes, I'm overall getting the same feeling of precision, purity and focus that the 2013 had. With water: funnily enough, I find curry leaf now, but also more seashore notes, briny and citric impression and this familiar farmyard note that goes really towards sheep wool and Barbour grease. Mouth: extremely ashy, nervous, lemony, full of pure, sharp peat smoke, bonfire embers, pure tar extracts, hessian and cod liver oil. A few glimmers of softer, citrus fruit notes behind all that. With water: pure, bone dry, highly mineral, chiselled and full of raw cereals, smoked oats, ales and camphor. Finish: long, salty, drying, tarry and smoky. Comments: we're so very close to the excellent 2013, is this kind of dry, highly chiselled, pure profile a Kilchoman distillery character that's here to stay now?
SGP: 467 - 88 points. |
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October 18, 2024 |
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