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January 5, 2023 |
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Little Duos, today sherried Tamdhu
There's a new release of the popular 'Batch Strength' version! We'll then have a digestif (we call them 'digeo', nothing to do with diageo)… |
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Tamdhu 'Batch Strength – Batch 007' (57.5%, OB, 2022) 
2019's Batch 004 is my favourite this far (WF 85). Colour: gold. Nose: the lighter colour didn't suggest this would be this oloroso-y, that is to say full of raw chocolate and roasted pecans, plus toffee, old walnuts and marmalade. It is also a little cologne-y I have to say. With water: the cologne is gone, but some leather and leaves are chiming in, together with some oak spices. Ras-el-hanout (hello Moroccan friends!) and yellow curry powder. Mouth (neat): classic young sherry monster, rather in the style of the old Macallan 10 C/S, or of earlier Aberlour A'bunadhs or Glenfarclas 105. A monster fruitcake, dried figs, armagnac and prunes, slivovitz, chocolate, then heavy teas and an unexpected pinch of salt. With water: gets grassier and spicier, with much more cinnamon as well, as if it had been more about the oak than about the sherry. Finish: rather long, with a little citrus, more cinnamon, nutmeg and again, this pinch of salt(iness) in the aftertaste. Comments: a pretty spicy batch. A few more years in glass would round it off, but who would do that? Very good tipple for sure, as expected.
SGP:561 - 84 points. |
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Tamdhu 32 yo 1988/2021 (46.3%, Precious Liquors, Three Wise Men Selection, sherry hogshead, cask #2840, 69 bottles) 
A small outturn, for Singapore. Some of these 1988s have been a little sulphury in the past, but let's forget about that… Colour: brown amber. Nose: if this has actual sulphur, I'm Harry Kane. There are rather massive loads of raisins in all their forms, macerated in cognac, roasted, further dried, burnt, in pastries… Dried damsons as well, French prunes, cinnamon powder, mulled wine spice mix, old rancio wine, proper old PX (we've just had another bottle of Barbadillo's superb Pedro Ximenez Reliquia)… All in all, all is for the best in the best of all possible worlds in this rather Andalusian Tamdhu. Mouth: superb old-school sherriness, with tobaccos leading the pack, then toffees and millionaire shortbread, marmalade, prunes, raisins, rancio, fruitcake, dried beef, muscovado, British-style rum indeed (but I insist, I'm not Harry Kane), more old armagnac… Finish: long, perfectly dry, more on chocolate, coffee and Indeed, armagnac. Comments: sneak these kinds into a blind line-up of old armagnacs, you'll see what will happen (but you may lose some friends). Splendid drop.
SGP:661 - 91 points. |
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January 4, 2023 |
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More Glenlivet on the table
We've had some superb Glenlivets in the end of last year, there's no reason why we wouldn't try more in the beginning of the new year. Say a quartet, vertically?
(Asterix-inspired French magazine ad, circa 1985. 'You could recognize us with your eyes closed. Locating us is a different story.) |
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Glenlivet 12 yo 'Licensed Dram' (48%, OB, 2022) 
This one ex-1st fill sherry and ex-1st fill bourbon. It came with a story and is/was, apparently, exclusive to dramazon (no comments). Colour: gold. Nose: an allrounder, apparently, with overripe apples, cereals, custard, a little fudge, honey and some nougat, maple syrup and sponge cake. A little more wood in the background, but the whole is very solid, exactly in the middle of malt-Whiskydom on the nose. Mouth: same feeling, word for word, this is a pivotal style, with some honey, marmalade, vanilla, fudge, apple cake, biscuits, some flowers (pollen, nectar, beeswax) and tarte aux mirabelles. Some earl grey too. Finish: medium, a tad oaky but we're all right. Scones, honey and tea in the aftertaste. Comments: this series is very intelligently done. At last, some malt that the neighbours will enjoy! So, without a blush, buy a bottle for the neighbours and keep the St. Magdalenes and the Broras for you and your whisky friends. Charity begins at home. Kidding aside, it is an excellent dram, as was its compadre the 12 years old 'Illicit Still'.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
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Glenlivet 'Nàdurra First Fill American White Oak' (59.1%, OB, batch #FF0117, 2017)
No wonder we've been procrastinating with this one, it is an NAS. But let's keep an open heart and check if this is (sorry, was) not plain oak juice… Colour: white wine. Nose: acacia honey and lime juice, shortbread, custard, kumquats (there) and stewed rhubarb. It's fresher than I had thought. No feeling of 'a pile of fresh sawn planks' this far. With water: citrus and granny smith at the wheel. Perfect kitchen work, no flaws. Mouth (neat): what can I say? It's modern, it's well made, it's fresh and fruity, it's got the right cakes at the right place (sorry?) and it's full of apples and bananas. It is just a little… strong. With water: I surrender. Excellent work, with a perfect fudge, lemon, popcorn, apple cake, lighter honey… It is only in the back of the back that you would find a little straight sawdust. Finish: medium, honeyed, well balanced, easy and not dull, with pineapples and papayas coming through in the end, that's good timing. Comments: believe me, I've tried but this baby remained unassailable and irreproachable. Better than the olorosos, but what's its age, by the way?
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
Let us summon the Sponge… |
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Glenlivet 14 yo 2007/2022 (53%, WhiskySponge, 1st fill sherry hogshead, 364 bottles)
Comes with all sorts of funny and whacky things on the labels. Not sure who the guy on the label is but he sure is in big trouble, which shouldn't be the case with this 2007 'livet from Signatory's. We've tried a few, they were good if sometimes, say explosive. Colour: dark amber. Nose: loads of metal polish and chocolate at first, then gentler elements, chestnut honey, peach jam, quince cake, lap xuong, beef bouillon, lighter pipe tobacco... With water: gets a little leafy and leathery and even a tad rubbery, typical saponification. Let's wait… zzz zzz… Good, emphasis on metal polish, old coins, bouillons… And there, since we know The Sponge is a fan, escargots. Mouth (neat): I think this is rather perfect, right in the middle of salty meats, acidic fruits, chocolate and toffee and jammy… err, jams. With water: meats, mint, honey sauce, soups and bouillons, umami sauce, and some honey to round it off. Finish: long and drier, more herbal and more on tobaccos. Some tannicity and some teaishness (they'll catch me one day) in the aftertaste. Comments: love these batches, they can just be a little tiring, or at least demanding. Almost 89 before the finish.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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Glenlivet 44 yo 1978/2022 (48.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection, LMDW, Collection Antipode, sherry, cask # #9044403, 75 bottles)
1978, that's last year, no? Right… I believe it was the first time I ever went to Scotland and visited a Distillery, which was Glenlivet indeed, although I just wouldn't remember whether that was actually 1978, or 1979, or 1980. I'm really not too sure but what I remember is that you just couldn't escape Bonnie Tyler's 'It's a Heartache' on the radio. Apologies, I know it's an earworm… Colour: dark amber. Nose: a maelstrom. Every time you pick up your tulip glass you're encountering something else, which I find a little, say unsettling. Meaty! No, fruity! No, chocolaty! No, floral! No, honeyed! No… What happens is that all those A-descriptors would take the lead one after the other, while you just couldn't cope with that frantic pace. And now it's raisins and prunes. No no no, chocolates and toffees! No wait, old brandies, armagnacs… No, old metals… Who's in charge, actually? Or is this self-management? Mouth: grand, one, meaty, topped with honey and chocolate sauce, mead, cognac, dried figs and just a lot of black nougat, or black turon. In my book, black nougat is not totally uncommon at all in malt whisky, but this one's has really got a lot of it. Some Demerara sugar too, chocolaty molasses, thicker honeys… Finish: gravy, honey, chocolate, chalky wine, more nougat, allspice… And black nougat in the aftertaste. Comments: it's even becoming old rum at times, sometimes old brandy, or old plum (vieille prune), or old calvados… Well it would just keep marching to its own drum anyway, no mercy for the humble taster. Let's bow out…
SGP:661 - 91 points. |
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January 3, 2023 |
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Little duos, today young Glengoyne
We don't see much Glengoyne at Château WF these days, while the name was huge in the house in the early 2000s. Why is this the first Glengoyne session of 2022/2023? Right, whiskies and things come and go and new operations appear on a daily basis these days, but we try to never forget any older names, brands or Distilleries…
(Magazine ad, 2002. 'Unlike other single malts, Glengoyne uses air-dried barley for a better tasting whisky'. Who smoked the Cohibas?)
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Glengoyne 10 yo (40%, OB, +/-2022) 
Ouch, we last tried the 10, in its penultimate livery, in 2012. Mixed feelings back then (WF 78). Colour: light gold. Nose: it starts with cornflakes and new world chardonnay, gets then very barley-y, with some caramel and vanilla fudge in the background. Tiny bits of walnuts, hazelnuts and almonds, all roasted. Mouth: a light malty dram, with some caramel, praline, roasted peanuts, halva, popcorn and Demerara sugar. Tends to become grassier (green tea, apple peel). Finish: of acceptable length, with some figs, toffee and more cornflakes. Golden Grahams, Jaffa cakes. Sweetish aftertaste. Comments: of sound and fair merchantable quality, as they used to say. I believe it's improved.
SGP:441 - 80 points. |
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Glengoyne 'The Legacy Chapter Three' (48%, OB, 2022)
NAS but Chapter Two was very good (WF 84). The word 'legacy' is one of the bottlers' preferred whenever they're dealing with NAS, together with the word 'reserve'. This is ex-American oak sherry casks. Colour: gold. Nose: the 10 packing more oomph, with some chocolate, cappuccino, Jaffa cakes, marmalade and biscuits, plus malt, stout, nougat and toffee apples. Uncomplicated but well balanced. Mouth: it delivers! Some strong heather honey, vanilla, a little white chocolate, a few pencil shavings (some rejuvenation?), black chocolate, then some black pepper, cinnamon rolls and nutmeg. Finish: long, with marmalade, clove, pepper, cinnamon and chocolate. Muscovado and some mentholy liquorice in the aftertaste, and a tiny leafiness. Comments: almost a Speysider, style-wise. Probably very young, but very well constructed. Smart whisky, there must be some kind of algorithm behind it (what?)
SGP:451 - 85 points. |
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January 2, 2023 |
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Easy session, three little Glenfiddich
It's true that we've tried many splendours lately, and shall try many more soon, so we may need a little break, that is to say malt whiskies that are meant to be, hem, not too cerebral. Easy post-holidays whiskies, shall we say…
(Magazine ad, circa 2000. Looks like it was real.)
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Glenfiddich 'Malt Master's Edition' (43%, OB, +/-2022)
This is some kind of double maturation, first bourbon, then sherry. It is a very affordable NAS expression, as all NAS should be if you ask me. It's good that they bottled it at 43% instead of some stingier 40%. Colour: straw. Nose: I like this, it's rather on apple crumble, walnut cake and some gentle ale, with the usual pears coming through only after a good fifteen seconds. Pretty light but well-constructed on the nose, now as usual with these relatively simpler drams, the truth will lie somewhere on the palate… Mouth: it's a good palate, easy, very Glenfiddich at first (we're not talking Glenfiddich 1937, are we), then more and more led by raisins, which works pretty well in this context. You could have believed this was finished in cognac wood. Some preserved peaches too, apple compote… Finish: medium, with a little more tea-ish oak, cinnamon, star anise… You may try to pour a teaspoon of this into your hot glass of mulled wine, you'll see, it'll work. Comments: pretty positive and probably a good gift to remote friends and family, as it's really easy and well made. I mean, close friends and family may need something a little more characterful instead. Anyway, we had tried an earlier batch bearing the older livery and thought it was very good too, so no changes as far as scores are concerned.
SGP:541 - 84 points. |
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Glenfiddich 'Reserve Cask' (40%, OB, travel retail, 1l, +/-2022) 
Here some 'hand-selected' sherry casks are married together in a 'solera vat'. Not sure the words solera and vat do hang nicely together; this sounds a little oxymoronic but let's not be bores once more. I mean, a perpetual vat that you keep filling is something else than a solera, is it not. This time again we had tried an earlier expression (circa 2015) but we had thought it was a little too mundane back then (WF 76). Colour: gold. Nose: much leafier and yet lighter than the Malt Master's, rather on fruit peel, cut grass, a little hay, cardboard, sawdust, leather… Mouth: sweeter, rounder for a while, but it would lose steam and become rather tea-ish and tannic. Some wood spices, a little fudge, some malt (and Ovaltine/Ovomaltine)… Finish: rather short, sweeter, with a little sugarcane syrup. Overripe pears and apples in the aftertaste. Comments: relatively all right, juts not very compelling. This time again, we won't change our score. Oh and the Malt Master's killed it, I'm afraid this little Réserve stood no chance.
SGP:541 - 76 points. |
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Glenfiddich 12 yo 'Our Triple Oak Twelve' (40%, OB, France, +/-2022)
A vatting of American oak, European oak sherry and virgin French oak. I believe it is a bottling for France, hence the French oak I would suppose. Nowhere does it actually say '12 years old' but with a large '12' on the label, it cannot not be, this is not rum after all, is it. Colour: gold. Nose: the expected vanilla cake, praline, nougat, popcorn, banana cake, custard tart, blancmange, getting then matter so to speak, with some sawdust but nothing unbearable, quite the contrary. Mouth: I believe the Malt Master's Edition was still superior, and indeed this has quite some apparent oak (we sometimes call them whiskies with exposed beams), but despite the lower strength it's got stamina, freshness and nice fruits, around mirabelle plums and apples. Plus the Glenfiddich pears. Also some raisins once more, from the sherry I would suppose, which will prevent this baby from becoming cardboardy at 40% vol. Finish: short to medium, with good fruits, mirabelle jam, even a little honey. Pleasant! Comments: you know one of our usual mantras, 'please bottle at a higher strength'. Solid Glenfiddich, nonetheless.
SGP:541 - 82 points. |
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January 1, 2023 |
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Celebrating the New Year with Hampden |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
Did you know that Hampden was founded by a Scotsman called Archibald Sterling? And that they were in big trouble until the Jamaican government stepped in in the beginning of this century and then sold it on in the year 2009? Anyway, we never taste only rums from the same Distillery within one single session, as rum remains a 'side spirit' at Whiskyfun, but today we shall make an exception since: |
- This is January 1st,
- It's going to be Hampden indeed,
- There is an incredible new official set of 8 different marks/marques, all in nifty 20cl bottles,
- What's more, they're all white, so obviously fully distillate-driven and in their most natural, naked glory,
- We have the potential to add quite a few recent aged Hampdens to put what we'll have learned into practice,
- Indeed, any excuses…
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I'd add that this is one of rum's advantages w.r.t whisky, you can have rum white, while you can't quite have whisky white (except that Glen Kella from the olden days). Globally, rum's more about the distillate, although more and more rum makers are starting to talk about wood and wine a little too much for my taste. We'll see what happens in the coming years, I for one wouldn't mimic whisky too much… |
So, first up, those eight new white Hampdens, sorted by 'ascending' marks, meaning by growing proportions of esters in the new distillate. What's also brilliant is that they would tell you what those marks really mean, with many technical details… Oh and the fact that they would have bottled all eight at the same strength, 60% vol. while they were all distilled in some of their six (some say four) double-retort pot stills. Dazzling from the beginning to the end! (Hope I'm not sounding like a brochure…) |
Hampden 'OWH' (60%, OB, La Maison & Velier, The 8 Marks Collection, 20cl, 2022)
The mark means 'Outram Wormald Hussey' while the level of esters is of 40 – 80 gr/HLPA (hectolitre pure alcohol). OWH is the lightest mark and was created very recently, in the early 2010s. There is no cane juice vinegar (a concept new to me, I would suppose that's all about bacteria), no dunder and no muck added to the molasses. Colour: white. Nose: that's the thing, it's a bit like peat, even when there's very little you call it 'smoky' or, in this case, 'estery' (or, there, funky). I'd swear there's some Diesel oil, olive oil, capers, lemon syrup… But if I want to survive this session, I'd better bring them down to approx. 45% vol. as soon as possible. So, with Vittel water: it's the mineral side that stands out, chalks and concrete dust, new magazines, ink, linseed oil, and simply fresh crushed cane juice. Mouth (neat and quickly): excellent lemon juice, olives, capers, citronella and a little soap, which is perfectly normal at this point, in my opinion. With water: indeed, it's already in high-esters territories, this time with more saltiness, oysters, and those lemons and olives. Imagine you would think whisky and peat levels, let's say we're already in Ardmore's ballpark. I have no idea if you have stories about bacteria and yeasts colonising distilleries and imposing their marks on any output, as would happen in wine (like in Jura for example)… No soapiness left. |
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Finish: long and saltier, clearly coastal. I find it terrific, and this is only the start. Rotting bananas in the aftertaste. Comments: what it didn't quite have was ammonia, acetone, heavy varnishes and all that. Love this already, boy is this going to get tough…
SGP:562 - 90 points.
(Picture, oysters from the Île de Ré, Destination Île de Ré.) |
Hampden 'LFCH' (60%, OB, La Maison & Velier, The 8 Marks Collection, 20cl, 2022)
That's 'Lawrence Francis Close Hussey', while the esters would range from 80 to 120 gr/HLPA. It is also a newer mark, it's all also done with molasses without the addition of any vinegar, dunder or muck, but with a longer fermentation period, 4 days instead of 3 for the OWH. I'm not sure you could say that simply adding 33% fermentation time doubles the esters, could you? It's also to be noted that the wash is at a higher strength for both lighter marks, that is to say 5% A.B.V. instead of 2-4% in all more estery ones to come. I find it really cool that they would give us all these data. Colour: white. Nose: there, trouble begins. I mean, so far I'm finding it rather less estery, and a bit more on caraway-and-curry-like spices. But then again, no chances to be taken… With water: more vegetal notes this time, rather around ferns, but the core remains all on chalky lemons, with some ink, paraffin, probably a little glue… |
Mouth (neat): more brutal than the AWH this time, with some varnish, but… With water: some fresh fruits, tangerines, maracuja, more lemons, and our petroly olives. Finish: really long, not vastly different from the OWH. Comments: it really takes immense amounts of water before starting to fall to pieces. I love it, but OWH remains my favourite. But this is only the start…
SGP:652 - 87 points.
(Picture, Marmiton) |
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Hampden 'LROK' (60%, OB, La Maison & Velier, The 8 Marks Collection, 20cl, 2022)
LROK means 'Light Rum Owen Kelly', the proportions of esters in the make being of 200-400 gr/HLPA. That's clearly not 'light', is it. It is an old mark from the late 19th century this time, the Owen-Kelly family used to be the owners of the Distillery at that time. To make this one there was an addition of cane vinegar, dunder and muck to the molasses, but in low proportions. By the way, I need to confess that until this very day, I used to believe that dunder and muck were kind of the two sides of the same medal. Shame on me. Anyway, this time they've done an acetic fermentation following the alcoholic one, which brings the total time to five days. Colour: white. Nose: glues and rotting fruits are chiming in this time, while there would be more citrus as well, especially lime. A kind of smokiness too, or am I dreaming? With water: it's getting dirtier than the others, fatter, with many oils, putties, and paints. Like olive green, no need to say (please stay focussed, S.) Mouth (neat): fabulous pure Hampdenness, with more olives than ever, zests, petrol (a feeling of…) and spent oils (something reminiscent of…) With water: a clear favourite, not a throwaway, limoncello and fruity olive oil, chalky chardonnay, some tar showing up for the first time… |
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Finish: long, chiselled, salty, olive-y and lemony. Tar and petrol in the aftertaste. Comments: this is Hampden as we know it. As for it being white, I'm starting to believe that with the best rums (cane juice and /or pot still), aging is just an option, or a variant. Glorious.
SGP:662 - 91 points.
(Picture, Polyester putty, Finixa) |
Hampden 'HLCF' (60%, OB, La Maison & Velier, The 8 Marks Collection, 20cl, 2022)
HLCF stands for 'Hampden Light Continental Flavoured' while the amounts of esters are reaching the 400-600 gr/HLPA threshold. To think that someone, a long time ago, has been considering this as 'light'… I would suppose that it was designed as a dresser for continental brands, and that 'flavoured' rather meant 'flavourful'. No? Colour: white. Nose: I see, some turpentine appearing this time, acetone indeed, nail polish remover, also always a lot of chalk and clay, the usual olives, some tiny pickled citrus… With water: forgot to say, it was still harbouring low amounts of vinegar, dunder and muck, while the fermentation time was extended to 7 days. As for this nose, once water's been added it's really going to the other side, the side of glues, paints and varnishes. |
Mouth (neat): totally massive already. Black olives this time, glues, lime, varnishes, tar, black propolis, many rotting fruits… With water: wow, brilliant. Fresh lemons and oysters on top of all those tarred olives and clearly overripe bananas and pineapples. Finish: very long, estery, tarry, even slightly rubbery. Turpentine and peat (you read that right) in the aftertaste. Comments: what's really cool with all these Hampdens is that you can taste many elements that, in real life, you would never, ever put into your mouth. Such as turpentine… Fab rum, who needs oak…
SGP:563 - 92 points.
(Picture, OneHOWTO) |
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It's now that it's becoming a little scary… |
Hampden '<>H' (60%, OB, La Maison & Velier, The 8 Marks Collection, 20cl, 2022)
'<>H' a.k.a. 'diamond H', 900-1000 gr/HLPA esters, medium amounts of cane juice vinegar, dunder and muck, 3 days alcoholic fermentation + 7 days secondary acetic fermentation (dead wash), with high acetate ethyl (5.5%) and close to 90% butyrate. Knowledge is power! Let's see how all those dazzling data will translate… Colour: white. Nose: we're at a gas station rather than at a Distillery now, but it is still kind of balanced, with bananas and guavas still there in the background. Whacky guavas are particularly obvious, in my opinion. But remember, no chances taken… With water: more fern, vinegars indeed, olives in abundance, tar, seawater, engine oil… The oysters have become severely fat. Mouth (neat): more paint and certainly a lot of acetone. Also huge quantities of liquorice this time, which wasn't obvious in the others. This baby is particularly strong, I have to add. With water: we've clearly reached extreme territories, says this whisky enthusiast. Varnish, dust, Diesel oil, capers and gherkins, green lemons (rather than lime), nail polish, acetone… |
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Finish: extremely long, with some strawberries at first, which you could sometimes find in heavily peated whiskies too, then just a lot of salty oils, tar, and 50 kilos of cracked olives in the aftertaste. Comments: utterly wonderful, but I would say we start to lose a little balance. The HLCF was ahead of it, in my humble little book.
SGP:463 - 90 points.
(Picture, capers, Gastronomiac) |
Hampden 'HGML' (60%, OB, La Maison & Velier, The 8 Marks Collection, 20cl, 2022) 
HGML stands for 'Hampden George MacFarquhar Lawson', a mark originally for blending for export markets. High cane vinegar and medium dunder and muck proportions, while the fermentation times reach 15 days (5 alcoholic, 10 acetic). The proportions of esters are reaching 1000-1100 gr/HLPA. Colour: white. Moves like oil your glass. Nose: grasses and glue, would I say, but there also more fresh fruits this time, which we weren't expecting. Even pears and pineapples, and certainly something eau-de-vie-ish (kirschwasser, plums). Some earth as well. This one's intriguing, perhaps thanks to some clearly longer fermentations. With water: fumes and cigarette smoke at first, then dark chocolate and even some coffee. Varnishes, olives and lemon juice are joining only later on. Mouth (neat): heavy glues and acetone, plus crushed bananas and rhubarb wine, and really a lot of liquorice. It remains bright, having said that. With water: higher salinity, but also more sweetness, even notes of yoghurt. Preserved cherries, really? This one's really unusual, or at least different. |
Finish: long and, this time, unexpectedly rooty. Beets (which takes the cake) and gentian spirit. The aftertaste is more acetic and varnishy, as expected this time. Some heavy liquorice and pepper too. Comments: highest order, naturally, but a 'funnier' one.
SGP:563 – 88 points.
(Picture, preserved cherries, Les Gourmandes Astucieuses) |
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Hampden 'C<>H' (60%, OB, La Maison & Velier, The 8 Marks Collection, 20cl, 2022)
So 'C Diamond H', which I don't think I've ever seen before, with high cane juice vinegar, muck and dunder adjunctions, very long fermentations (10+10=20 days), and 1300-1400 gr esters/HLPA. Scary résumé, don't you think? Colour: white. Nose: back to concrete and diesel oil, pickled gherkins, olives, carbon dust, old brake pads, plus new electronics and leatherette. No fruits in sight this time, so far. With water: it is much more elegant than I would have thought, rather less wham-bam-check-my-esters (S., are you all right?) and rather on various herbs and earths. Something basaltic. Mouth (neat): really extreme this time. Concentrated lemon juice, acetone, indeed vinegar, some very tight liquorice, the greenest green olives… With water: perfect, straight to the point, no detour ahead (sweet Bill Evans!), rather on some earthy liquorice and, to be honest, not that much acetone. And a lot of olives, aren't they throwing olives into the pits? |
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Finish: long, rather elementary, in the best sense of that word, simple, perfect. Olives, lemon, salt and tar. What does the people want? Tight 'green' white wine in the aftertaste. Comments: awesome, one that you could actually sip without racking your brains.
SGP:552 - 90 points.
(Picture, gherkins, NDTV Food) |
What's complicated is that I love Hampden, so in no b****y way could I proceed by elimination. Anyway, the last one will be a legendary… |
Hampden 'DOK' (60%, OB, La Maison & Velier, The 8 Marks Collection, 20cl, 2022)
DOK stands for 'Dermot Owen Kelly-Lawson', the highest ester count at Hampden and in Jamaica in a whole, with 1500-1600 grams esters per hectolitre pure alcohol, which is the legal limit. Fermentation was eternal (well, 10 days alcoholic + 15 days acetic) while they had originally added the highest proportions of cane vinegar, muck and dunder. It is not the first DOK we're trying, but let's remember that esters may translate differently in any aged rums. Yeah, t's like peat, nothing is linear or granted. Colour: white wine. Nose: the fumes from a well-tuned old 911, geraniums, tomatoes, williams pears, young Comté cheese, vinyl, sour cherries… Well, the molecules in there seem to be run off their feet! With water: grass, cactus, carbon, slate, capers, samphires, and this vinyl again. A large box full of old 33 rpm vinyls and cassettes. A little ammonia this time, and more cheese as a consequence (or conversely). Mouth (neat): yes, no, I don't know. It is full of varnish and cigar ashes. I love it and I hate it, pretty intermittently. Only escape, water: it's gherkin juice with some cellulosic varnish, kept in an amphora with bits of tyres and green olives. Quite bizarrely, this works. |
Finish: extremely long, with lemons back at the helm. Smoked olives and tarry ashes in the aftertaste. Even a little vanilla and sweet oak which, I agree, cannot be there. Sweet mustard. Comments: fantastic, if a little tiring at times. Between us, would you have more than three glasses of this? A theoretical question…
SGP:653 - 90 points.
(Picture, Porsche 911t 1970, Richard Opie) |
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Announcing The Podium
What's my favourite mark/marque? Well, they may then age differently depending on their profiles, the various precursors that they may shelter and all that, but as far as white Hampdens are concerned, my personal podium would be:
- HLCF
- LROK
- OWH, <>H, C<>H, DOK
Disagreements and taunts: on a postcard please. |
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Good, I feel like I should pinch myself to see if I'm still alive after these crazy eight Hampdens. It seems that I am, so what did we learn? First, that they're all superlative. No real surprises, but there. Second, that these rums do not really need oak. In a way, they're like the greatest mezcals. Third, that ester counts aren't linear by any means, at least not 'in your glass', possibly because of our own detection thresholds or personal biases and distortions. Fourth, that fermentation times, whether alcoholic or bacterial, are extremely important. And fifth, and rather deceptively, that some rum makers are now at the cutting edge in terms of education and engagement, while so many whisky makers are still busy doing some lousy 20th century-type brand-building that would make the most optimistic oyster cry. But didn't we say we'd also try a few aged Hampdens? I think we've got a pretty young one, for example… |
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Hampden 5 yo 2016/2021 'LROK the Younger' (47%, OB)
A little Wedderburn sheltering 314.8 gr esters per HLPA. Long live precision! This should go down easy and effortlessly. Colour: white wine. Nose: citrons running the show, together with light varnishes and green pears. Some American oak has added some roundness, some vanilla, and some fresh ripe bananas, plus a feeling of cane juice, rather agricole-style. This is smoother and rounder than any of the whites from the Collection, from the OWH up to the crazy DOK. Mouth: much Hampdenness at first (varnish and olives) but once again, the sweet American oak made it almost cakey, almost as if someone had added some maple syrup. Now, lemons are coming to the recuse, re-establishing balance and zestiness. A little saltiness finishes the job. Finish: medium to long, very citrusy, and actually just excellent. I think we got a little bit spooked over nothing. Comments: super mega good, easy for Hampden. Just like with Pliny, the Younger can match the Elder; now you do feel, at times, that the oak was not that necessary. I know some true rum afficionados that would always, ever favour the whites.
SGP:652 - 87 points. |
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HPDN 2013 '<>H' (65.4%, Swell de Spirits, Anniversary Cuvée, cask #05086)
A rather pan-Jamaican baby, as it was first matured on location at HPDN for 7 years, then for 2 years in the UK, then for 3 months in a New Yarmouth cask, which sounds a little.. odd. But they say only the result counts… By the way, remember, <>H means heavy butyrate, so ripe bananas and pineapples. And 900-1000 gr esters/HLPA altogether. Colour: light gold. Nose: crazy indeed, very vinegary, with shallots and onions, olives, tar, caramel and many varnishes and ketones. Mirabelle plums and bananas are kicking in after a moment and would literally invade it. With water: unknown aromas. It is very intriguing, with something Chinese as far as the profile's concerned. Chen-pi, Austrian riesling, young vinegar de Jerez, sweet Chinese sauces indeed, also raisins (raisins?!) Mouth (neat): extremely powerful. Crunching raw rhubarb and the greenest green plums. But that should be temporary… With water: acetone and varnish at the helm, tar and brine on the deck, olives and pineapple liqueur in the bilge. Moreover, it swims extremely well and can take a lot of water. Finish: long, rounder, but always salty, varnishy and olive-y. I haven't quite got New Yarmouth's profile in mind, but it may be the guilty party. Comments: very crazy indeed, with esters moving in a Brownian way, not easy to follow but rather spectacular.
SGP:562 - 89 points. |
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Hampden 15 yo 'C<>H' (62%, Kinghaven, sherry finish, 2022)
Kinghaven is a brand by Smögen, the small albeit very valiant Swedish Distillery. If they have decided to finish some Hampden in sherry, there must have been a reason, beyond the fact that they were having some empty sherry cask at hand. Oh and remember what we've learnt, C diamond H means extremely high esters… Colour: gold. Nose: right, the sherry was anecdotal, or was it some manzanilla? What it's got is rather some camphor and pine resins, beyond the smoky and tarry olives and all the crazy varnishes. With water: massive oliveness. It's all about olives, really, with an acetic side. But now that we've learnt that they're adding some cane juice vinegar to the molasses, nothing surprises me anymore. Great nose. Mouth (neat): well, smoked olives perhaps? Surely some high-concentration tarry grassiness, crushed olives, stone dusts, ashes, vinegars, green walnuts, some mad nocino liqueur… With water: pure high-ester Hampden, with just a piney side. A piney side from a sherry cask? Why not! Finish: very long, a tad waxier and with some lemon marmalade. Really. Comments: pretty experimental, with emphasis on the 'mental' part of that word. A joyous, rather extreme concoction by Smögen, top rung for sure but it's like mortadella, we don't actually wanna know how they made it. Remember these are the folks who are also making surströmming (okay, I owe you a beer, Pär).
SGP:563 - 89 points. |
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Jamaican Rum 21 yo 2000/2022 'JMLR' (48.2%, The Whisky Blues and Get Lost In The Whisky, cask #94, 137 bottles)
Brokers are using different marks, in this case it seems that JMLR is a mark by E & A Scheer in Amsterdam and would translate into LROK. For example, Cadenhead's are using the mark JMLR for Hampden LROK, which, remember, is a lighter mark, with 200-400 gr esters/HLPA. We'll also remember that it's not all linear anyway… Colour: straw. Nose: this is so gentle, easy, rather on sunflower oil, green tea, soft sweeter olive oil rather than plain olives, old books, spearmint, with a little myrtle and elderberries, whiffs of pine smoke, lime tea, wormwood… In truth I'm finding this fantastic, extremely subtle and delicate. Mouth: absolutely wonderful, starting with various citrus and mints, herbs of many kinds, a dollop of fir honeydew, then we'd find the olives that are actually running today's show, then sour wines, lemon juice, dill, even smoked kippers… We're actually slowly moving towards old Islay, especially towards the briniest Bowmores. And oysters! Finish: medium to long, very maritime. Oysters in majesty, with smoked olives as the garniture. The aftertaste would be a notch sweeter, perhaps on raisins, perhaps on goji berries. Comments: wow. There was also a medicinal side, but all in all, it was truly as maritime as a… stripped-back Bowmore.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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December 2022 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Lagavulin 30 yo 1991/2022 (44.3%, OB, Cask of Distinction, for Hong Kong Whisky Fellows, House Welley Whisky Bar, Christoph Kirsch, Sebastian Jaeger and Boris Borissov, 1st Fill PX/Oloroso seasoned European oak butt, cask #5403, 318 bottles) - WF93
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Clynelish 33 yo 1973 '2nd bottling' (54.6%, Prestonfield/Signatory Vintage for LMDW, cask #8913, 439 bottles, +/-2007) - WF95
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
Lagavulin 8 yo (48%, OB, +/-2022) - WF90
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
Tiffon 'Lot 19:22 Borderies' (45%, Berry Bros & Rudd for Kirsch Import, Cognac) - WF93
Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
Millonario '10 Anniversario Reserva' (40%, OB, Peru, rum, +/-2022) - WF45 |
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December 31, 2022 |
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Serge's Non-Awards
Just a short list of my personal favourites amongst the +/-1200 whiskies and other spirits I've tried in the year 2022, as we do every year. Please do not bother too much, I believe these quick lists barely make any sense (unless you need to sell), they rather represent some kind of compuslory yearly exercise. So let's move on... |
Favourite recent bottling |
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Glen Grant 72 yo 1948/2020 (52.6%, Gordon & MacPhail, Premier Whisky Hong Kong, American oak sherry cask, cask #440, 290 bottles)
WF 94
I'm close to feeling shame here, as this one is that exclusive, expensive, rare, old and designed as a record-breaker that it's almost 'obvious'. The only problem is that beyond all that, it is also a very marvellous whisky, typically Gordon & MacPhail, who've been nurturing their own fillings for decades and decades while so many other companies, including very famous Distilleries, need to source their older glories from outside. In short, it looks like a gem and it is a gem. |
Runner-ups |
| Port Ellen 1980/2021 (59.6%, OB, Prima & Ultima Third Release, refill American Oak Hogshead and ex-Sherry European Oak But, 555 bottles, 2022) - WF94 |
| Ardbeg 20 yo 2001/202 (44.5%, The First Editions, for HNWS Taiwan, refill barrel, cask #HL18657, 146 bottles) - WF93 |
| Glen Grant 70 yo 1952/2022 'Platinum Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II Edition' (52.3%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection, first fill sherry butt, cask #381, 256 bottles) - WF93 |
| GlenDronach 50 yo 1971 (43.8%, OB, 198 bottles, 2022) - WF93 |
| Lagavulin 30 yo 1991/2022 (44.3%, OB, Cask of Distinction, for Hong Kong Whisky Fellows, House Welley Whisky Bar, Christoph Kirsch, Sebastian Jaeger and Boris Borissov, 1st Fill PX/Oloroso seasoned European oak butt, cask #5403, 318 bottles) - WF93 |
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Laphroaig 15 yo 1967/1982 (57%, Duthie's for Samaroli, sherry)
WF 98
One of the best whiskies ever made by Man, many friends even consider it to be THE number one malt whisky. And it is not even a matter of opinion or taste, it is just 'true'. Naturally, people tend to be in the know these days, so while you could still find a bottle for the cost of a pepperoni pizza in Mayfair only fifteen years ago, the prices at auctions (that often quote us by the way) seem to reach £30K or more these days. You say it's more than that? |
Runner-ups |
Age Unknown 'Keizo Saji' (43%, OB, Yamazaki, 300 bottles, 1994) - WF96 |
Clynelish 33 yo 1973 '2nd bottling' (54.6%, Prestonfield/Signatory Vintage for LMDW, cask #8913, 439 bottles, +/-2007) - WF95 |
Brora 1972/1994 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice) - WF95 |
Favourite bang for your buck |
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Ardbeg 10 yo 'Ten' (46%, OB, +/-2022)
WF 91
Ardbeg do not only release strange young whiskies with a matrix approach (any wood, any variants of distillate, any tweaking and any combinations thereof), they also keep high their flagship 10 years old that's become both their best current expression (in my humble opinion), their most readily available, and probably the cheapest of them all (around 55€ here in France). The 2022 batch that I've tried was really stunning. |
Runner-ups |
Lagavulin 8 yo (48%, OB, +/-2022) - WF90 |
Talisker 10 yo (45.8%, OB, French market, +/-2022) - WF90 |
Inchfad 'Gunpowder UA' (46%, Ukrainian Whisky Fans Association Kyiv, 435 bottles, 2022) - WF90 (Slava Ukraini!) |
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Vallein Tercinier 'Rue 34' (42%, OB, for LMDW, Antipodes, Grande Champagne, cask #034, 50 bottles)
WF 94
Old cognacs have been running the show in 2022 on little WF, even if some outturns have been extremely low thanks to the regular bottling of demijohns rather than full casks. Now I believe the prices remain totally unjust, as this one's still available for 975€ at LMDW (no, we never, ever do any affiliation) while Macallan or Dalmore would price a comparable liquid, hopefully of similar quality, at one hundred times that amount without batting an eyelid (and perhaps not even use any crystal). This wonderful little 1934 by Vallein Tercinier is a perfect example. |
Runner-ups |
Mauxion 'Lot 31' (43.5%, OB, Borderies, +/-2022) - WF93 |
Tiffon 'Lot 19:22 Borderies' (45%, Berry Bros & Rudd for Kirsch Import, Cognac) - WF93 |
Maison Tribot 'V.70 A.51' (50.3%, Old Master Spirits, for Australia, Grande Champagne, 120 bottles, +/-2021) - WF93 |
Vallein-Tercinier 'Small Batch 41/43' (48.2%, OB for Kirsch Import, Bons Bois, 2021) - WF93 |
Hampden C<>H 1990/2021 (54.4%, Salon du Rhum Belgique, Jamaica, 228 bottles) - WF93 |
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Longrow 10 yo 'Red' (52.5%, OB, refill malbec finish, 2020)
WF 60
I've got nothing against Longrow, or Springbank for that matter, on the contrary, I believe they're some the grandest distillates in the whole world, as my numerous extremely high scores, including for some very recent releases should prove. What really bothers me is when they put those stunning distillates, or readily-matured spirits (ex-refill or not), into wine casks that make no sense at all and that have never been 'traditional' in Scotland. It's all becoming an Encyclopedia of Grape Varieties! Bah, in any case, I know many friends love these and that I'm only one guy. But malbec in my Longrow? Jesus, no! |
Runner-ups |
Ardbeg 2011/2020 (57.6%, OB, for Germany, 1st fill 'Cote Rotie', cask #2303, 302 bottles) - WF70 |
Tamnavulin 'Tempranillo Cask Edition' (40%, OB, +/-2020) - WF70 |
Aberfeldy 18 yo 'Tuscan Red Wine' (43%, OB, batch #2922/A, +/-2022) - WF72 |
Ardbeg 'Fon Fhoid NFT' - WF00 (but we were joking) |
Plus numerous insanely sugared 'rums' that we won't even mention, that would be too depressing. |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland |
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| Old glories for new year! |
| I had thought it would be nice to see in the new year with a wee line-up of brand new, top notch whiskies from new distilleries. After all, isn't it better to look to the future than mull over the past? As it happened, I didn't really have anything suitable for a full session on my shelves that fit that initial plan. So, let's go with Plan B: an unashamed wallow in old glories of yesteryear with the help of some Glen Garioch and Highland Park. Isn't that what everyone is doing these days anyway? |
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Happy new year to all you lovely folk! |
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Highland Park 13 yo 1956/1970 (70 proof, Avery's) 
I just adore the line on these old Avery's labels: "This straight malt whisky was distilled on November 15th, 1956. It has been aged over 13 years in Spanish Oak casks which had previously contained our fine quality Sherry. It was carefully bottled in our Bond on April 2nd 1970." Mic drop. Colour: deep orangey gold. Nose: we are on Orkney, and exquisitely so! The level on this bottle wasn't too great when it was opened, but despite that, and despite the 70 proof, this is just an embarrassment of riches. Layers and layers of dry, herbal, intricate Orcadian peat with long aged Sauternes, coconut, sultana, toolboxes full of old hessian rags and mechanical oils, natural tar and resinous impressions of wormwood and cough syrups. An enchanting traipse through a whole land of aroma that doesn't really exist in whisky anymore. Mouth: even with a slightly loss of ABV this is still astonishingly syrupy upon arrival. Pure, old school cough syrup mixed with yellow Chartreuse, aged Drambuie and Clacquesin. I also find suet, marrow and bouillon broth full of green and black pepper, smoked sea salt, olive oil and feelings of mutton and sheep wool oils. Hugely organic, fatty, herbal and mechanical. Vegetal aspects which are the opposite of the more dodgy kind you may find in old blends; everything here feels like the result of stunning old HP distillate in some sublime sherry wood. Finish: not the longest, but still rather long, if you see what I mean. A glowing, still warm hearth full of peat embers. Comments: utterly exquisite old Highland Park with an indomitable wealth of old style Orkney peat character on display. I seem to recall feeling this bottle was ever so slightly tired when we opened it but revisiting this sample I'm struck by the beauty and remarkable freshness and resolve. I think a bottle with a better level would comfortably be in 94/95 point territory. As it is…
SGP: 565 - 93 points. |
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Highland Park 1974/1998 'Online Tasting' (57.6%, OB, 228 bottles)
Now a legendary bottle, which I've never formally tasted before. Let's set that straight right away…Colour: amber. Nose: fat and juicy sherry immediately up front, underpinned by softer, sooty peaty notes, camphor and things like beeswax, furniture oil and dark fruit molasses. Concentration, power and a wonderfully clear feeling of 'Highland Park'. It continues to evolve with impressions of resinous hardwoods, hints of black olive, medical embrocations - at times you would even start to think of some very top class heavy Caroni. A slow but increasing evolution and complexity in this nose, the type that draws you in hopelessly… With water: saltier, more leathery, tarry, nutty and full of all kinds of crystallised and dried fruits. Totally brilliant! Mouth: an outstanding fusion of dry, earthy, herbal peat with some stunningly salty old Oloroso VORS and then all manner of softer, dried and stewed dark fruits, aged Fins Bois Cognac, walnut liqueur and touches of gentian and pickled tarragon. One of those whiskies where as soon as you feel you have a grasp of it, it changes tack and adds in further layers of complexity. With water: goes up a notch higher with water. Extreme complexity now, coupled with a fantastically thick, chewy, dry peat smoke flavour. We'll have to stop as this could go on far too long otherwise… Finish: long, getting lighter and more playful again with green pepper, lemon rind, quince, tiny drops of iodine and more camphor and peat. Now also some dried tropical fruits in the aftertaste. Comments: another one of these whiskies that rather dominates you and leaves you with little choice but to hang onto its coat tails for the ride! Deservedly a modern legend in my view. A bridge between the profile of the 1956 Avery's and later styles of Highland Park in some ways, but it does that with rather outrageous brilliance. The kind of bottle that will probably be 94 point material in another 10 years.
SGP: 564 - 93 points. |
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Ok, that Avery's HP has given me an idea… |
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Glen Grant 13 yo 1959/1972 (75 proof, Avery's)
Same statement about sherry casks with same wording, which is encouraging, as is the slightly more punchy 75 proof. This was a bottle I opened the other week when visiting some friends in London. Colour: mahogany. Nose: a much deeper, denser and rather more opulent sherry style that's reminiscent of some superb old off-dry oloroso cream sherries, that used to be very popular in the UK. All manner of fudge, Armagnac-soaked raisins, figs, candied walnuts and subtle hints of meat stocks, gravies and dried cranberries. This fusion of meats, earth, fruits and some delicate medicinal undercurrents is just gorgeous. Mouth: stunning sherry, salty, gamey and riddled with umami paste and rancio! An utterly irresistible style that's now all but extinct in Scotland's warehouses I think. Maybe hard to say we detect an obvious Glen Grant profile, but then of course Glen Grant from this era would float with this kind of cask like two happy hippies on acid! The whole just screams perfect balance and utter decadence. Finish: long and full of salted dark chocolate, game meats, rancio, pickled walnuts and Irish coffee. Comments: the urge to go and pour a silly sized measure of this into a large cognac snifter glass is reaching danger level - little wonder there are so few bottles of this one left! What's rather cool is that the sherry profile is pretty different from that of the 1956 HP, which felt like it belonged more to the old G&M school transport sherry cask style. Another amazing slice of utterly gorgeous liquid history.
SGP: 652 - 92 points. |
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And now of course we should probably have a sparring partner for the Glen Grant… |
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Glen Grant 27 yo 1973/2000 (46%, First Cask, cask #7647, sherry)
From this rather neat wee series for Direct Wines which was sourced from Signatory Vintage. Colour: pale amber. Nose: a lighter style, more mulchy, earthy and rounded with notes of chocolate biscuit, malt loaf, brown bread spread with treacle and moist Guinness cake. Also develops some lovely classical notes of raisins, sultanas and prune. Needs a little time in the glass to gather complexity but it evolves rather beautifully with some impressions of heather ales and dessert wines. Mouth: very typical of these vintages, with waxy honeycomb vibes up front, along with runny honey, pressed flowers, pollens, dried dark fruits and crystallised citrus peels. In some ways it is struggling after the 1959, but in other ways the fact it is quite a different profile is a real asset. Olive oil, Earl Grey tea with lemon and a light medicinal note. Finish: medium, on quince jelly, more honey, sweet wines, soft waxes and wee herbal cough medicine notes. Comments: it's a short, sharp reminder of just how utterly charming and excellent these batches/vintages were for Glen Grant. The kind of bottle that has probably been remorselessly destroyed over a fair number of festive holidays since release. I was hovering around 90, but I love Glen Grant and it's Hogmanay so let's throw caution and care to the wind…
SGP: 651 - 91 points. |
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Ok, after that slight but very welcome sidetrack, onto Glen Garioch. |
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Eastern Highland Malt 1975/1988 (50%, Duthie for Samaroli, 20th Anniversary, Fragments of Scotland, 648 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: take some 1974 Caol Ila, add a few good drops of 1970 Port Ellen, one or two splashes of 1968 Ardmore and finish with a scoosh of 1971 Brora. Or, if we must, perfectly pure and salty peat, tiny earthy and vegetal notes, a sense of rather fat and hefty smoke, embrocations, green olives, tar. A beautifully fresh and chiseled nose that makes you think of some of the greatest peated malts. With water: saltier, more vegetal and earthy, more medicinal and also brimming with freshness and zesty fruits. Whisky that makes you grin like the Cheshire Cat. Mouth: gah! Stunning. So textural, so fat and so oily! Slathered on peat flavour that's salty, drying, herbal, coastal and fresh while also feeling like it belongs to the farmyard and the engineers garage. Mechanical oils, tars, pickling brine and various umami things along with also preserve citrus fruits, like lemons in brine. Then camphor and iodine too. All over the place but in a joyous and utterly brilliant fashion. There's also this very clear feeling of sticking your head in a malting kiln, which is essentially the voice of the raw ingredients shining through in my book. With water: what I find so impressive is the depth and fatness of the peat flavour - you have to really work your molars to break this wondrous sludge up into consumable portions! All the while it simultaneously manages to retain this joyous complexity with all these other wee flavours and things pinging out at you. Finish: superbly long and gelatinous in the mouth. This peat has missed three busses! Salty, resinous, citric, tarry, peppery and smoky! Comments: It would appear I used the word 'joyous' twice in this note, that about sums it up. Only thing I'd add is that this is probably my favourite of the 1975 Glen Gariochs - kudos to Mr Samaroli and also, if I may, to the fact it was bottled at 50%, which I'd hazard has worked wonders over the years in glass in this case.
SGP: 465 - 94 points. |
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Glen Garioch 15 yo 1973/1988 (60.5%, Slim Cowell's personal selection III)
A famous and extremely rare bottling that carries a mighty reputation and that I never tasted before. I'm extremely happy to finally be able to try this one. Colour: deep dirty gold. Nose: what's amazing is how the 1973s, and this one specifically, are so different from the 1975s. This is just so much more organic, farmy, metallic and dirty in a good way. Black olives, brine, anchovy paste, silage and tarry rope. Saying that it's also showing some superbly salty and pure sherry notes, like some ancient Amontillado with these salty, walnutty vibes. The peat is also sharper, more sinewed and slightly more specific but still wonderfully weighty and enveloping. I also get pinewood and burning rosemary branches. It's another of these story book whiskies that has tales to tell and will lead you down some long and wayward paths. With water: becomes tenser and really balanced between saltiness and these gamey/tarry accented peat smoke aromas. Such an unusual and brilliant profile that is really quite unlike most other old peated makes. Mouth: holy moly, we've stumbled upon some 100° proof peated green Chartreuse. Also stunning tarriness, medical embrocations, pure iodine, camphor and smoked olive oil. You can also add tobaccos, walnut wine, leather, smoked game meats and flamed orange rind. With water: more of these orange notes, along with other preserved citrus rinds, massive of smoke, herbal ointments, very salty liquorice, cocktail bitters and sooty peat flavours. Finish: wonderfully long, resinous, herbal, tarry and peaty. A superb interplay between a unique peated distillate and some ruggedly excellent old style sherry cask. Comments: I understand why people would enjoy the purity of the 1975s, but these 1973s possess some kind of otherworldly charm and charisma that is extremely hard to put your finger on in my view. This is a big old shaggy beast of a Glen Garioch, and I absolutely love it!
SGP: 476 - 93 points. |
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Hogmanay hugs to Olivier, Iain, KC, Cicada and Mike D. |
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December 30, 2022 |
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Thirty Clynelish
from 2011 to 1971
(Because there is no limit to true love) |
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Before the end of the year, as promised.
Indeed we've got a lot of Clynelish on the table, which comes handy to further celebrate WF's 20th Anniversary right before the end of the year. I had first thought we'd do a verticale, but we've got too many of them for that. Same with a retro-verticale, which, what's more, is much trickier to do by nature, even if a retro-verticale would also better showcase the fascinating evolution of the distillate over the years and decades. But well, I would say we'll do this randomly, because after all, some say you and I are well-acquainted enough with the make. Nota bene: because of some busy schedule (and some last traces of reason and sanity at WF Towers), all these Clynelishes won't be actually assessed within one single tasting session. Let us proceed, and adios 2022! (Tomorrow it's Angus who's on duty)… |
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Clynelish 11 yo 2011/2022 (58.7%, The Whisky Show 2022)
This lovely baby came with an UV-sensitive label (it's that, right?) and a QR-code. All what's missing is some NFT and perhaps own crypto. Next year, perhaps? Colour: straw. Nose: I've noticed that my thirst for Clynelish never stopped growing, and it seems that this little beauty won't do anything about that. There are bonbons all over the place, it's almost like the rear seats of a car after a 10 hour drive with three little kids. Main flavours, orange, pineapple and pear. There's probably a little nail polish too, but the wax is not coming through yet. With water: it does now. Aren't the simplest pleasures the best? And the kids did not gulp down all the sweets (yet). Mouth (neat): those sweet bonbons indeed, these touches of varnish and bitterish fresh oak as well, but this time the waxiness is present right from the start. With water: perfect now, with peach sweets and syrup chiming in. A Scottish Bellini? Finish: medium and well balanced, between the sweet and the oak. A little feeling of green tea flavoured with fruit. Comments: Clynelish is one of those distillates that can be rather stunning at a very young age, even when al natural.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Clynelish 12 yo 'The Golden Eye Guardian' (58.5%, OB, Special Releases, Elusive Expressions, 2022)
The cask-bill here gathered refill American oak, PX and oloroso. Hope this gumbo won't have offset the Distillery character, but probably not, Diageo do care about Clynelish! What's sure is that it was a good idea to hire Syd Barrett's little nephew to do the names and stories… Colour: straw. Nose: it's pretty fascinating to have this one after the more elementary (in the best sense) TWS. Nutshell, the sherry has erased a part of the bright fruitiness and added some wine, walnuts and teas. English breakfast tea, naturally. With water: a little more fruitiness but walnut skins and other fruit peelings, and even eucalyptus tea tend to dominate. But the paraffin and beeswax are there, hurray. Mouth (neat): the fruits and rather a lot of paraffin are having the upper hand this time. Once more, a little bitter oak coating that, even chlorophyl. With water: very good, if a little cask-heavy indeed. A notch harsh, perhaps, otherwise oranges and a little honey are adding some needed lightness, although this isn't fruity whisky by any means. Finish: rather long, but the oaks and their spices are at the helm. Some raisins from the PX (I would suppose) in the aftertaste, plus a faint saltiness. Comments: super-good, it's just that I shouldn't have had the rather pristine young 2011 just before this one. My bad.
SGP:561 - 84 points. |
Perhaps an older 12, for fun and comparison?... |
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Clynelish 12 yo (57%, Gordon & MacPhail, distillery label, 75cl, +/-1983)
In theory, this is stemming from the earliest vintages of the 'new' Distillery. In Ainslie's label book at Diageo's Archive this very same label is marked as from June, 1983. We've tried several bottles already, but perhaps not exactly this batch. I know, any excuses… Colour: gold. Nose: you would almost believe they've added some 'old' Clynelish to this, for it is so sooty and petroly. The waxiness is insane too, the old greases, also the ripe garden fruits (apples), the rocks, the spearmint, the flints, the metal polish… Boy I may be wrecking this session. I mean, completely. With water: a little mead, old white wines, toolbox and old copper coins, more metal polis… You see. Mouth (neat): God's own malt. It's got everything, including some old Clynelish, I'm almost sure about that. We'd better sing you a song now… But not before we've mentioned beeswax, engine oil (a feeling of…), benzine (something reminiscent of…) and just chewing candles. When we were kids… With water: I had forgotten how good these were/are. Some seawater now, oysters, sorrel soup, soot, ashes… Finish: endless, stunningly salty and honeyed. You could use this as some condiment, perhaps with caviar or lobster? Love the mustardy aftertaste too. Comments: I remember one evening in Limburg. There was a lovely dinner but no proper wine. We downed a bottle of this instead, and as for going back to our hotel, well… Why am I telling you this? What's sure is that these Clynelishes do make for great substitutes for white wine. Believe me.
SGP:662 - 93 points. |
This could really get tough, but there's a bunch I've already wet my lips in, so pretty confidently… |
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Clynelish 25 yo 1995/2021 (54.5%, WhiskySponge, refill sherry butt, 505 bottles)
Colour: light gold. Nose: this is much, and I mean much waxier than many more later vintages, and it's really all on beeswax, pencil eraser, drawing gum, fresh walnut skins, and indeed almond paste, with only touches of tangerines in the background. Feels almost more '1982-1983' than '1995-1996', says this humble exegete. Oh an in truth, you could almost quote '1972-1974' as well (not the smokier ones). With water: chalk, paraffin, wet plaster, metal polish. 110% Clynelish. Mouth: orange and tangerine juices blended with liquid beeswax and honey. Some aspects would also remind us of 1960s Lochside, honest. With water: brilliant Finish: medium, fresh, superbly honeyed. Comments: I've tried to keep this short since we have several Spongey Clynelishes on the desk. Otherwise I would have, oh, hum, waxed lyrical.
SGP:551 - 91 points. |
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Clynelish 25 yo 1995/2021 (56.6%, WhiskySponge, refill sherry butt, 528 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: Clynelish + sherry can, in my experience, generate dissonances, including feelings of sulphur while there's not obligatorily any sulphur inside. That's exactly what I'm finding here. Pass, this time… With water: glutamate at the power of seven. Make that eight. A lot of earth too, saltpetre in abundance, etc. Mouth (neat): rather a little nicer on the plate, thanks to bitter oranges and tobacco, but there's really a lot of pepper and some walnut wine in excess. With water: cold cuts and leather, smoked sausage, bitter oranges, old 'sour' wax indeed. Finish: rather long, on peppered oranges. Comments: Cadenhead used to have such 'deviant' batches too. It's terrible to come onto the tasting desk after that splendid, all-bright '505 bottles', but let's be honest, I know this style has got its utter fans so as always, that's just me. And don't get me wrong, it's still great whisky,
SGP:462 - 82 points. |
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Clynelish 26 yo 1995/2021 (57.7%, WhiskySponge, refill sherry butt, 532 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: somewhere between both but nearer the 'clean' one. Love these whiffs of greasy fat Chablis (Grenouille) and Sancerre. Superb (didn't we say we'd do this quickly?) With water: bouillons and broths, marrows, chives, onion soup, grapefruit liqueur, earths and mushrooms… Mouth (neat): tops, mineral, waxy, resinous, citrusy, huge. Love it. With water: perfection, please call the Anti-ClynoPorn Brigade! Finish: rather long, waxier, and with more flavourful honeys and citruses. Stunning chalk, wax and lemon in the aftertaste, a well-known winning combo. Comments: aren't these vintages coming of age? Oh and by the way, I don't think I've ever found any notes of sponge in any whisky. Or perhaps 'old sponge', as in 'old floor cloth', but those are not enviable descriptors, are they. Anyway, superb Clynelish, state of the art and really hard to beat here and now. I mean, generally speaking.
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
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Clynelish 25 yo 1995/2021 'Cuvée' (53%, WhiskySponge, Third Secret Edition, 131 bottles)
Right, it seems that, maybe because he was feeling guilty with regard to the 'sulphury sherry', the Sponge decided to vat a wee part of all three casks to produce a little 'Cuvée' that, I suppose, would have gathered all what's great in the individual casks while offsetting what's a little, say 'deviant'. Right, sulphury. Having said that, I wouldn't impute motives one way or another, that's all my own humble theory… Colour: gold. Nose: hem, not 100% sure. Meat extracts, soy sauce, plasticine, beef fat, Cuban cigars… The honeyed fruits aren't having the upper hand this far, that's for sure. With water: Marmite? A little basalt too… Mouth (neat): not too sure. I'll ask the Sponge about the proportions, let's hope he'll give us the answers. I don't think the vatting was done in equal shares, but naturally, I could be totally wrong. With water: no, better now. Classic, cleaner wax and honeys coming through, mead, some savoury old pinot noir perhaps… It came to its senses and so have I. Finish: medium, still a tad wobbly here and there, but this saltiness wins it. Comments: fun stuff that would, at times, remind us of some sherried 'Old Clynelishes' or of some of Ainslie's darker blends. But it remains a complicated whisky, somewhat, somehow…
SGP:552 - 86 points. |
Good, that Spongey quartet gave us a true run for our money, but we're not completely done with Clynelish, far from that… |
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| 'New' Clynelish's original architect plan, 1966, R.P. Morris (Diageo Archive) |
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Clynelish 25 yo 1995/2021 (53%, La Maison du Whisky, Artist #11, cask #11235, 580 bottles)
I would imagine, according to the colour, that this one's from the same parcel as that of that 'Sponge' that was a little bit on hung grouse, fungus and struck matches, let's see... Colour: mahogany. Nose: coffee, crude chocolate, tar, old oloroso, proper walnut wine, miso and umami, old Partagas, oyster sauce… Well this is a true sherry monster of the highest order and this far, almost any distillate would have partnered with this cask beautifully. There are echoes of 'old Craigellachie', for example, just saying. With water: possibly one of the loveliest ex-heavy-sherry Clynelishes out there. Earth, polish, tar, mushrooms, plasticine… Mouth (neat): yeah, heavy high-grade orangey sherry, this would work even with mineral water. Quite. Okay, I'm exaggerating. With water: excellent, these are just hard to water down with precision. Just one or two drops will suffice. Bovril, brown sauce, ceps, miso, mead… Nah, one drop will be enough. Finish: long, meaty, fat, very sherry-y. Comments: extremely good, it's just that once again, I shouldn't have had the two utter stars by the Sponge within the very same tasting session. Always the same problems as soon as a distillate has got a little character (Springbank, Lagavulin, Laphroaig, Ben Nevis, and many others, including Clynelish…) Well, that's what I think.
SGP:462 - 88 points |
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Clynelish 10 yo 2011/2021 (59.1%, The Whisky Exchange, barrel, cask #800293, 205 bottles)
In my short experience these recent very young Clynelishes may rely a little more on fresh orchard fruits, and less on that traditional waxiness, which could make them rather less recognizable, let's see… (come on, we're not tasting blind anyway)… Colour: straw. Nose: it is not a very waxy one indeed, as it appears, we're rather reminded of dough, breads, apple pies, grist, or cider, although I do find touches of paraffin, but that may be my mind trying to find what it knows should be there. Any taster's worst enemy. With water: some waxy bread indeed, sunflower oil, quince jelly… Mouth (neat): a little icing sugar and orange blossom honey, then reaching panettone and pear tart, citron liqueur, and yes, perhaps, there, a little candlewax with a wee soapy side. Or are those just fresh almonds? Not too sure… With water: more bitter grasses and zests, grapefruit skin, a little bell pepper, sloe, juniper… What's sure is that it is not a wax monster. Not that we always need them anyway… Finish: long and, guess what, much more on paraffin, candlewax, and proper argan oil… ! All things come to him who waits. Comments: a very lovely young Clynelish that takes its (and your) time.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
Back to old ones… (this session is a merry chaos, I tell you)… |
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Clynelish 30 yo 1990/2022 (47.7%, La Maison du Whisky, Artist #12, bourbon barrel, cask #3477, 137 bottles)
More barrels, more greatness I would suppose. It's to be noted that the age here is rather 'over 30 years', some charming cocketry on the part of LMDW. Colour: light gold. Nose: these early 1990s, as they become older, start to resemble the early 1972s, which is great news of course. We're thinking old pinot gris from a great house, beeswax 'of course', cakes, dried flowers, a lighter tarte tatin, our beloved stewed quinces, sweet polenta, French toast… And in the back, some sea breeze that's the guardian of the freshness here (pardon?) Mouth: someone's mistakenly bottled a 1972, it's obvious. But shh… More beeswax and pollen, dried figs, tangerines, orange blossom water, papayas, acacia beignet, touches of salted butter caramel… Finish: not too long but charmingly delicate. Perhaps an old white Graves, perhaps even Laville, our friend Christophe's favourite white (but they stopped producing Laville in 2009). Comments: extraordinary, if elegantly fragile here and there. Do they also do magnums?
SGP:551 - 92 points. |
Break! But we'll be back with more young Clynelish… |
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Clynelish 9 yo 2011/2021 (56.9%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, second-fill barrel, #26.117, Gathering, Butterscotch-pear pie In a lemon orchard, 215 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: this one's really raw and eau-de-vie-ish, we're almost nosing plum spirit as it's running off the still, with just touches of vanilla and ripe bananas from the barrel (I would suppose). With water: sourdough and some sour juices coming out. Lemon indeed and greener apples. Mouth (neat): really, it's almost new-make, complete with a little soap and lemon skin. With water: the powerz of Clynelish working their magic, but this is still a little too rough and immature for me. Finish: medium, green, lemony. The aftertaste is really rather sour. Comments: it's Clynelish, but these are perhaps the limits of the exercise. Youth is great… up to a certain point.
SGP:551 - 82 points. |
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Secret Highland 16 yo 2004/2021 (59.9%, The Maltman, Or Sileis, 1st fill Marsala hogshead, cask #73, 403 bottles)
More crazy whisky selected by our Taiwanese friends. Colour: deep gold. Nose: a Marsala that would behave and indeed these waxes and oils, this time with a few aromatic herbs and flowers, some dried. Patchouli, orange blossom, honeysuckle, or just a pot-pourri. Is that all the Marsala? Wee touches of sweet mustard too, which would suggest a 'Madeira-Marsala' (with apologies to our friends both in Portugal and in Italy). With water: mushrooms, moss, mustard, wild carrots, celeriac, beets… Probably all from the cask. Mouth (neat): this is oily, tight, with some walnuts and lemons, woodruff, a little horseradish, and one question: was this a fino-type dry Marsala? With water: same, mustardy, a little salty, and pretty fino-y indeed. Finish: long and more on roots. Salty carrot juice and coffee in the aftertaste. Comments: I then to like the naked ones tiny-wee-tad better but this is extremely close, for once. I have to say I was having doubts but it's been confirmed that this was truly Clynelish.
SGP:461 - 88 points. |
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Highland Single Malt 11 yo 2010/2021 (54.1%, Thompson Bros. for Rum & Whisky Kyoto, hogshead + rum, 295 bottles)
By internal rule, we're only posting such secret Highland malt amongst Clynelishes when we're dead sure that they're Clynelish. This baby's be re-racked into a rum cask from Diamond Distillery in Guyana (marque was sxg, so probably from the Versailles still). Colour: white wine. Nose: so, si or no? War or peace? I'm happy to report that the Clynelish and the Demerara seem to get along extremely well, but it's true that they're sharing some traits in the first place. So more a gathering of like-minded spirits than whacky aromatisation with rum. A little engine oil and the expected waxes, more brine than in 'pure' Clynelish, candied citrus, perhaps that famous olive everyone's talking about… With water: almost pure Clynelish now. Majority wins. Mouth (neat): really punchy, perhaps a little more disorienting than on the nose because of these sweeter caney notes, but there's also some heather honey, which is perfect. It's as if the second maturation added much maturity, and more salt as well. With water: indeed. It rather feels like, say 17 years. Finish: rather long, salty, sooty, with even, wait, echoes of Old Clynelish! How bizarre… Comments: much more Champagne with peaches than coffee with mustard, if you see what I mean. Brilliant young drop, should they all treat their (young) whiskies like this one, I would become the #1 fan of finishing!
SGP:562 - 89 points. |
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Clynelish 23 yo 1997/2021 (53.3%, The Whisky Cask Company, bourbon, 209 bottles)
These vintages have an excellent reputation. There must be a reason. Colour: light gold. Nose: much love for this. It's a slightly shier one, but it's showing elegance and distinction, with some fresh bark, sunflower oil, those softer waxes, candles, plaster and chalk, apples, then mirabelles and quinces… With water: a delicate earthiness and even a few ashes, perhaps coal. A little fresh coriander, and always these waxes. A nose to marry (why would you marry only a nose, S.?) Mouth (neat): ueber-class Clynelish, everything being exactly right here. Citrus, apple peel, beeswax and honeycomb, acacia blossom, quince, not-too-ripe mirabelles, plus just a faint saltiness, nothing dominant. Shh, much respect… With water: more towards citrus, which is brilliant. I was about to mention kumquats but my Dutch friends seem to be firmly against that. So, say yuzu and bergamot. Finish: the chalk is back, with some lemon and a little cold earl grey tea. Wax in the aftertaste, as is customary. Comments: I think I'll add nothing. De nada.
SGP:551 - 91 points. |
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Clynelish 18 yo 1997 (55.5%, Adelphi Archive, 20 years of Whiskyfun, cask #12378, 145 bottles, released 2022)
It's not that I'm into onanistic tasting (?!) but indeed, I had to write some note for this baby that, let's make this clear, I did not select myself. However, the good folks at Adelphi are smarter than Einstein himself and knew that this would be 'my' thing. Thank you, Adelphi! I'd add that I already tried it, in… lovely Warsaw. What's more, the bottle came with a magnifier, a response to my constant jibe because they were doing such small labels that I just couldn't read, even when I was still less than 40 (so very recently… I can hear you thinking!) Colour: straw/pale gold. Nose: it's fascinating to try this one after the 1996, for they are so close. Same elegant citrus, wax, chalk, oils and yellow garden fruits. I'm not even sure I should say more. With water: fresh baguette, sourdough bread, a little porridge, chalk, flints… Mouth (neat): epitomically Clynelish, fully on the make, perfectly citrusy and waxy, with a fantastic greenness that would remind us of the best sauvignons blancs. With some chalk of course, there. With water: candied citrus and coriander, plus some white pepper. Finish: some saltiness, lemon, a little bitter marmalade. Comments: we could have done some minimalistic tasting note instead. Like, Clynelish 18 yo 1997 (55.5%, Adelphi Archive, 20 years of Whiskyfun, cask #12378, 145 bottles, released 2022) Colour: straw. Nose: mid-1990s Clynelish. Mouth: mid-1990s Clynelish. Finish: mid-1990s Clynelish. Comments: mid-1990s Clynelish.
SGP:551 - 91 points. |
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Clynelish 24 yo 1996/2021 (52.2%, Hunter Laing, The First Editions for HNWS Taiwan, hogshead, cask #18250, 258 bottles)
With cats playing pool. That's what cats do, right? Colour: white wine. Nose: we'll never get out of here. What I could say, and perhaps that was the hogshead, is that it is a Clynelish that's got some Ben Nevis traits. Such as this concrete and these garage-y touches, spent oil, old toolbox and all that. Other than that, it is perfect. Don't get me wrong, the Ben-Nevissy side was perfect too (S., is this about Clynelish or about Ben Nevis?) With water: these crystalline apples and quinces that we love so much. Mouth (neat): pure, crystal-clean waxy and citrusy Clynelish, a tad fatter than the two previous ones, but just as splendid. Perhaps a touch of mustard ala Ben Nevis (perhaps not, S.!) With water: it's glorious, perfect, a Miura of malt whisky. Finish: hey hey, some smoke? Was that the Ben Nevis? (S., please…) Firmer aftertaste, peppery, salty and hugely waxy. Comments: what can I say.
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
To the dedicated taster, this is a happy nightmare, at least a trap. Too many quasi-identical whiskies! Whether the ones you've got on your table are sublime or plain rotguts, this kind of situation is never easy to handle. But back at Hunter Laing's… |
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Clynelish 27 yo 1993/2021 (53.8%, Hunter Laing, The First Editions Author's Series, bourbon barrel, cask #HL 18443)
The gentleman on the label is Edward Everett Hale, an American clergyman and writer (1822-1909). Not too sure Mr. Hale has ever had anything to do with whisky, but I love this slightly circumvolutory quote, 'I am only one, but still I am one. I cannot do everything, but still I can do something and because I cannot do everything, I will not refuse to do the something that I can do.' Such as trying more Clynelish… Colour: gold. Nose: it's incredible how the older age feels, even if that's only three years. Cakes appearing, jams, candied fruits, even 'bourbon raisins', mead, old cognac (we've just tried a good dozen the other day), cigarette tobacco (Camels, even if I believe I smoked my last Camel around thirty years ago), patchouli, lime tea… But what a glory, what a glory… With water: this is terrifying, we re-created a 1972, as we did with a 1990 only yesterday. Mouth (neat): it swapped its crystal-clean waxy and citrusy freshness for more spicy cakes and pastries, stollen, also moshi, banana cake, honey cookies… Now the level remains ueber-high. With water: nah, it's just incredible too, with more cough medicine, syrups and herbal teas this time. Finish: do we really need to tell you that waxes and citrons are coming to the front? Stunning finish. Comments: just as amazing as the other ones. Of course you could say that the 1990s were when most Distilleries started to make good malt whisky again, but in my book, Clynelish never quite lost any steam. Perhaps in the end of the 1970s, and sometime around the mid/late 1980s? I'm not even sure about that… anyway…
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
Perhaps an easier, lighter one? |
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Clynelish 18 yo 1997/2015 (46%, Chieftain's Choice, bourbon hogshead, casks #6580/6581, 544 bottles)
Long time not seen any Chieftain's, are they still kicking around? Used to love some of their bottlings in the past. Colour: straw. Nose: indeed it is an easier one, one that's rather rounder, with some vanilla and orange cakes, madeleines, some pollen, a little milk chocolate, even a little sweeter ale… It is not an intransigent Clynelish that would bite you, that's for sure. Mouth: the vintage talks and so does the Distillery. Some beeswax indeed, some praline, those cakes, a little lime tea, a wee saltiness indeed, and more chocolate. Very good and a proper Clynelish 1997, even if I think I should have had it upfront, given the lower strength. Finish: good length. Some spices from the oak that, it seems, has been rather active. Some bitter walnuts in the aftertaste. Comments: perhaps not a star but very good and not that easy, after all.
SGP:561 - 85 points. |
I think I need a younger, fresher one again at this point… |
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Clynelish 10 yo 2011/2022 (59.5%, Watt Whisky, barrel, 210 bottles)
I'm a little surprised they would be allowed to bottle some Clynelish in Campbeltown, but there, not my business. Come on, isn't that like bringing your own French langoustines to a Scottish seafood restaurant? Perhaps not… Colour: light gold. Nose: not one that's fully on orchard fruits, this has seawater, soot, brine, stearin, granny smith and lime juice… Almost cask-strength cachaça on the nose! With water: or mezcal? Gentian? Celeriac eau-de-vie? Crazy sour cherries? Now some honeyed vanilla is bringing a little gentleness after just one minute. Mouth (neat): as perfect as a 10 yo Clynelish can be. A real blade this time, the first one we're encountering in this two-part session, that would mercilessly throw smoked green apples and just salted limes at you. With water: cuts you like a laser. Little salvation on the palate. Finish: no, there, some sweetness, honey, beeswax, candied lemon… Comments: tops. Possibly my favourite 2011 this far, but don't take this on faith, I haven't checked our index. Oh who cares, it is just great.
SGP:462 - 88 points. |
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Clynelish 26 yo 1995/2022 (56.2%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams, sherry butt)
Whenever I read 'Clynelish' and 'sherry' on a label, some lights are starting to flash in my head, but there were many exceptions. It's just that I believe that it's hard to get the balance right (as Frank Zappa used to say). Colour: gold. Nose: it is certain that the freshness was toned down, but it is just as certain that some lovely chocolate and tobacco are making up for that. A wee feeling of armagnac, perhaps, some raisins, surely a few pencil shavings, a Mars bar, millionaire shortbread… So, some Clynelishness has been lost but balance has been kept. With water: classic walnut wine and cigars. Mouth (neat): hold on hold on hold on hold on, this works! We're far from just chocolate and tobacco, it is got a chicken-soup quality, even some venison, chocolate sauce (mole), hoisin and miso, something slightly metallic and salty, but no actual dissonances. Hurray. With water: that's the thing, with these profiles you need to have the proportions of water right or you could flatten your whisky and make it too dry. Hard work but I think I succeeded, with just two drops. Finish: long, very chocolaty. Oloroso-y aftertaste. Comments: I prefer them shiny and bright, but indeed this is very excellent. Well done Nectar.
SGP:461 - 89 points. |
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Clynelish 25 yo 1995/2021 (53.5%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams, 15th anniversary, refill sherry butt, cask #11238, 501 bottles)
Stuff from Signatory Vintage, they say good springs make good water. Colour: mahogany. Nose: deeper into toffeeish sherriness. More Mars bars, Carambar (do you know Carambar?), moshi and Japanese red bean curd, fresh-polished hardwood, toffee, then indeed a little hoisin sauce… No doubt quality is extremely high, but I doubt anyone would recognise Clynelish. I know I wouldn't. With water: ah, beeswax? Metal polish? Old pipe tobacco? A little sea air for sure, that's good news. Otherwise armagnac and toffee. Mouth (neat): some walnut stain, soy sauce, chocolate, blackish toffee, stock cube, a little carboard and a little sulphur… That last part would suggest it desperately needs H2O. With water: water will kill it if you're not careful. Say just one drop. Pine needles and really a feeling of super-dry oloroso that would have dropped below those 18% vol. Or amontillado. Finish: very long, piney. Coffee and chocolate in the aftertaste. Comments: very tough dry sherry bomb. It is a difficult style that I enjoy a lot, but between us, this could have been any other malt Distillery, even Auchentoshan. I liked 2022's better, for it was more Clynelishy. 2019's 1995 had been superb too (WF 90).
SGP:471 - 87 points. |
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An old receiver full of that 'black gunge' that's said to be responsible
for Clynelish's trademark waxiness (WF Archive) |
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Clynelish 27 yo 1993/2021 (51.4%, Hunter Laing, The First Editions CMC for Malt Cask Hong Kong & Dadi Liquor, bourbon barrel, cask #HL 18455, 130 bottles)
This one has travelled from afar! In theory, this should be another bed of roses, quality-wise… Colour: gold. Nose: something of an old chardonnay at first, with a little sour wood, then rather triple-sec, tangerine liqueur, and rather mead than beeswax this far. Whiffs of brand new sweater (pure wool). With water: it's even a tad diesely at first, but then, paraffin and linseed oil are running the show. The wool is still there too. Tiny touches of fermented oranges or something like that. Mouth (neat): a wonderful citrusy arrival, this time fully and properly Clynelish, with just the right amounts of waxes. The barrel feels a little bit but the lemons do counterbalance all that. How many times have we used the words 'lovely' and 'awesome' these days? With water: no complains at all. Perfect saltier Clynelish. Finish: medium, totally Clynelishy, with more beeswax than in a 15th century church and more citrus skin than in… oh forget. Comments: right up my alley once more. It's going to be 91 because it is more than perfect. There.
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
And good news, there's more… |
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Clynelish 27 yo 1993/2021 (52.5%, Hunter Laing, Old & Rare, Platinum Selection, for The Whisky Library Hong Kong, refill barrel, cask #140 bottles)
No cask number that we can spot but we know it was bottled in August. Err… Colour: gold. Nose: this one's a little different at first, probably fresher, more on 'that walk in the woods', humus, then camphor, ointments, crushed fern leaves, also sea air… With water: awe! It's high-precision, rather restrained but just stunning Clynelish on the nose. 25-30 years is a perfect age. Mouth (neat): formidable! It's got both the freshness from the land and from the sea, and the paraffiny, lemony waxiness. I can't wait to add two drops of Vittel (our official water, Vitell, yeah I know the cheque's in the mail, you already told me last time). With water: all the expected compadres are coming out one after the other, wax, lemon, pepper, sourdough, chalk, angelica, pollen… Only the oak is a wee tad too present this time, I would say, making it 'only perfect' in my book. Nit-pickers of all nations, unite! Finish: same developments. Lovely citrus, maybe just a tad more on skin than on flesh. Reminds me of… oh forget (JM, get out of this body!) Lovely honey and beeswax in the aftertaste, it's definitely 'perfect'. Comments: nobody will believe me if I say, once again, that these sessions are difficult to do because the whiskies are so close. Spoiled, we are.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
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Clynelish 26 yo 1995/2022 (51.5%, The Whisky Exchange, 50 years in the drinks industry, hogshead and sherry butt)
This baby to celebrate Sukhinder and Rajbir Singh's (plus family) 50 years in the business. This is bizarre, last time I met them, not that long ago, they were looking much, much, and I mean much younger. What's sure is that they know their Clynelish. Colour: light gold. Nose: it starts a bit like the Platinum, that is to say very fresh, zesty, a little tight, lemony and not quite unlike some Rosebanks of old. I utterly love this chiselled style, let's hope it'll all go on like this. With water: a little sake (believe it or not, that's the sherry), otherwise an extremely coastal Clynelish. Oysters, lemon, a little tobacco. Tobacco is an useful descriptor, you just write 'tobacco' and presto, two dozen sub-aromas are heading your direction. Mouth (neat): the sherry brought just a tiny colouring, I would say, perhaps a bit of walnut cookie and a little coffee/chocolate. Other than that, it's perfect well-defined and well-carved Clynelish. Awesome lemony saltines (or, you're right, the other way 'round). With water: the dry sherry gets louder. More tobacco, chicken soup, a little clove, walnuts… I would suggest you just don't add any water. Finish (when neat): pure citrusy and moderately waxy Clynelish. Salty and peppery aftertaste, with some dark chocolate in the back. Comments: what a mercy it is that the sherry behaved! Happy 50 years in the business, Messrs Singh and family!
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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Clynelish 31 yo 1990/2022 (42.6%, Signatory Vintage, Cask Strength Collection, bourbon barrels, casks #3689 – 3690, 197 bottles)
Looks like the angels have been greedy here. We're also out of the comfort zone at 31 years, but let's see… Colour: light gold. Nose: age indeed, evolution, softening… It is, in truth, a little worrying at first, but many smaller, tertiary aromas are starting to appear, mead, encaustic, pine needles, old wardrobe, syrups and cordials from the 1970s, then we have apple pie, that famous tarte tatin, quinces, lamp oil, balms and polishes… Well it'll all happen on the palate anyway. Or not… Mouth: frightening for a second (tea, cardboard) but everything's falling into place then, mead, waxes, overripe apples… But it's lost the citrus over the years and becomes a tad fragile again around the middle. Just a tad. Finish: not very long, rather on apple peel and old honeyed cordials. Stuff that monks used to make to convince non-believers. Right. Some rhubarb in the aftertaste, which is perfect as it lifts it like when Tom Cruise almost hit the mountain with his plane. Right, that's the only comparison I could come up with, but it works with James Bond too. Comments: simply another fantastic one.
SGP:551 - 89 points. |
Good, there's another vintage that I always loved, that's 1983. |
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Clynelish 16 yo 1983/2000 (57.1%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #26.14)
Not a very well-known bottling and it didn't even come with one of those silly names we love to make jokes about. Well, we just love those names, in fact. Colour: white wine. Nose: exactly a blade. As we sometimes say, it cuts you into two halves of exactly the same dimensions. Lime, chalk, mercurochrome, rhubarb and basta. With water: porridge and damp oatcakes. Grapefruits and a tiny bit of passion fruit. Mouth (neat): ziiiing! Well in the style of these youngish naked malts by the SMWS from that time, the Broras for example. Pure, crystalline, high-definition wax and lemon. Incredibly sharp, in all senses. With water: keeps sending shivers down your spine, but this lemon marmalade is of the highest possible grade. Finish: long, immaculate, amazing. Salty aftertaste. Comments: who would have known? Probably Angus… A.m.a.z.i.n.g.
SGP:562 - 92 points. |
And now to be consistent… |
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Clynelish 23 yo 1983/2007 (57.1%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #26.50, 'Heather, hay and honey', refill hogshead)
No picture for this one. Bah they all look the same anyway, don't they. I've put a fantastic Scottish Wildcat found at The Guardian instead, I don't think that's a bad deal, is it. Colour: light gold. Nose: winner, provided you enjoy Clynelish that is. Shoe polish, soot, lemons, beeswax, sunflower oil, grapefruits, shellfish (the whelks are back!)… With water: waxy perfection. This will be the fasted tasting note ever. Mouth (neat): I don't know what to say. Shuts you up for good. I can hear you. With water: a grand Montrachet, with a medicinal and smoky side. In fact, we're pretty much on Islay here. Finish: herbal liqueurs! Comments: to the dedicated taster, there are two kinds of fabulous whiskies, the ones that will make you write a novel (almost, I mean, better not) and the ones that will leave you speechless. This astounding Clynelish by the Society remains firmly in the second category. Who knew about it?
SGP:562 - 93 points. |
Perhaps an official little 1982 now?... |
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Clynelish 15 yo 1982/1997 (57.7%, OB, Flora & Fauna Cask Strength)
This one's becoming really rare, as many F&F CS have. This should be more on classic beeswax and candied citrus, let's see… Colour: white wine. Nose: starts with an astounding purity, almost solely on beeswax and paraffin indeed, plus some expected citrons (liqueur) and small crystallised citrus fruits. Goes on like this forever. With water: some fermentary notes coming in, fresh bread, some beer, leaven, and naturally, always a lot of wax and citrus. Corsican citron liqueur (Cédrat). Mouth: still a little hot and rustic at 15 yo, with rather massive chalky notes beyond all the wax and the citrus. This one's eminently 'Clynelish', which the regular Flora & Fauna wasn't quite in my book. I'm sure water will work wonders here… With water: pure, epitomically Clynelish, with even more wax, some putty, orgeat syrup, even a little turpentine and sweet pine sap drops as they make them in the nearby Vosges mountain. Lemons in ambush in the background. Finish: long, with the lemons coming out of the woods, so to speak, plus some lovely bitterness, liquorice wood, cherry stems perhaps… Comments: still very slightly brutal here and there, but we accept it and even bow with delight. You're right, typical fan attitude.
SGP:562 – 91 points. |
Good, we've also got two Clynelishes that were distilled in the 1970s to put an end to this unseen madness and I think we'll first have the oldest, as it should be a little gentler. Important word here: 'should'. |
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Clynelish 36 yo 1971/2007 (51.5%, Murray McDavid, Mission Cask Strength, bourbon cask, 265 bottles)
Very early vintages of 'New Clynelish', 1969 – 1970 - 1971 have always been rare, Diageo themselves only ever bottled some 1972. Douglas Laing have had some 1970 and 1971, while Gordon & MacPhail have had a 1969 distilled in May as well as some 1971. Signatory had some 1971 too, and that's pretty much it, apart from less than a handful handed over to high-quality 'sub-bottlers'. Colour: light gold. Nose: this incredible fruitiness from those years, topped with the right amounts of honey and wax. Say acacia honey, tangerines, beeswax, mirabelle plums, apricots, tinned peaches, also a floral side, with some woodruff, wisteria, geranium flowers and a handful of fresh almonds. With water: a tad more towards precious woods, related spices, and perhaps some old-style liqueurs, Bénédictine for example, as well as orange blossom water. Mouth: impressively fresh, with even more honey, wax, candied citrus, zests… A little peppermint in the background, then rathe tropical touches, around pink bananas. On the palate, the oak's impressively unobtrusive, doing its job without ever getting in your way. With water: more wee herbs and camphor coming out, old embrocations, a little eucalyptus, all that always with a lot of freshness. Finish: very good length, still pure and fresh, with a few coastal touches now and some polished (and polite) wood coming to greet you in the aftertaste before the end. Comments: this wonderful old Clynelish is, in my book, of a high quality equivalent to that of the Flora & Fauna, in a rather 'beautiful beast and beastly beauty' situation. Oh well… I'm not sure the water was mandatory.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
Good, I would suppose it's time to put a definitive end to this utter madness. So a very, very last one (I promise)… |
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Clynelish 33 yo 1973 '2nd bottling' (54.6%, Prestonfield/Signatory Vintage for LMDW, cask #8913, 439 bottles, +/-2007)
Please call the Anti-Maltoporn Brigade. Good. We did a 'masterclass' this year at Whisky Live Paris that was meant to be 100% blind. The kind of session that's the equivalent to the breaking wheel to any taster that's still got a little ego, except, in my own case, when one of the whiskies that are poured is such a Clynelish from the early 1970s. You just cannot miss them, they are the GTOs of the whisky world! I would add that sister cask #8912 is at some meagre 95 points on little Whiskyfun. At 95 or more, we consider them 'transcendental'. Colour: straw. Nose: transcendental. One part is that 'meta-blend' of spirits that only a few malts may display. Like mezcal + gentian eau-de-vie + shochu, perhaps even + moutai. And then this very perfect combination of chalk, raw wool, grist and beeswax. Should we need to use only one word, we'd probably use 'mineral', rather than 'waxy'. Okay, two words then. With water: flabbergastingly pure. Sublime minerality. Mouth (neat): extraordinary. This is one of those very few casks of Clynelish that have been pretty Brora-y, with a high peatiness that's never to be encountered in 'regular New Clynelish', neither was it to be found in 'pre-Brora a.k.a. Old Clynelish', at least not to this extent. And yet, some waxy tropical fruits and honeyed lemons are there too, while they are rarely to be found in Brora either. But as I often say, Brora and Clynelish were connected with pipes and only God (and most probably Diageo) knows what used to run through those pipes in the 1970s. Mash? Wash? Low wines? Spirit?... Or only fuel? Or just nothing? Only for decoration? With water: I have to say the Old-Clynelishness is pretty obvious this, with this sootiness and these tiny touches of mustard ala Ben Nevis (indeed). There's some salty and lemony tar as well. Finish: very long, this time much more on pure smoky lemon and paraffin. Pepper, liquorice wood and, indeed, a little mustard in the aftertaste. Plus, perhaps, a little fuel oil… Comments: transcendental.
SGP:464 - 95 points. |
The Podium
95 points
Clynelish 33 yo 1973 '2nd bottling' (54.6%, Prestonfield/Signatory Vintage for LMDW, cask #8913, 439 bottles, +/-2007)
93 points
Clynelish 12 yo (57%, Gordon & MacPhail, distillery label, 75cl, +/-1983)
Clynelish 23 yo 1983/2007 (57.1%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #26.50, 'Heather, hay and honey', refill hogshead)
92 points
Clynelish 16 yo 1983/2000 (57.1%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #26.14)
Clynelish 30 yo 1990/2022 (47.7%, La Maison du Whisky, Artist #12, bourbon barrel, cask #3477, 137 bottles)
… and quite a bunch of stunning 91s and 90s. What a session! |
I had thought we would also have some pre-Brora Old Clynelish, but no, we won't welch on our promise, so next time!
(With many, many thanks to Angus, the Burlet Bros., Lars (big time!) and Thierry as well as the LMDW / Whisky Live / WhiskyMag / Golden Promise crew and all the lovely bottlers who keep releasing some wonderful Clynelish, including the owners of course).
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| Notice to the public: this is the one Clynelish I desperately need to try one day, before closing. >>> |
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December 29, 2022 |
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Today's Time Warp Duo, Glen Grant forty years apart
Indeed, distilled forty years apart but both bottled right this year. While that Glen Grant can age very gracefully is no secret!
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Glen Grant 1995/2022 (58.2%, LMDW Partners, selected by Navigate World Whisky, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #56908, 84 bottles)
A small outturn for South Africa. The label bears a wonderful painting by Cape Town's artist Tanja Truscott, titled 'Swartland Sunset'. Hope the whisky will be as beautiful… Colour: gold. Nose: it's rather all on vanilla and hay at first, then just soft malt, panettone, brioche and orange blossom, earl grey… Some mirabelle jam and quince jelly would join in too after a few seconds as well as a large bowl of cereals. Say Golden Grahams (de nada, Nestlé). With water: as usual, it's the bready side that would come out, oats, baguette, leaven, then fresh moist orange cake. We could have said panettone again just as well. Mouth (neat): rather oranges and golden delicious apples at first, with a little icing sugar, star fruit and kiwi. Lovely acidic side. Then custard and white grapes. Really a zesty, tart one on the palate, after 27 years in first fill ASB. With water: fully on fresh fruits, rather granny smith, rhubarb, kiwi again, some lemon, lemon squash… There's also a little honey, cinnamon (rolls) and a little greenness (fruit peel, leaves). Finish: medium, still zesty, but with a few juicy sultanas, one small lichee, some vanilla custard indeed, and a touch of savagnin in the aftertaste. Also some lemon again as well as a flinty, chalky side. Comments: the barrel did its job as a maturing vessel, without adding much 'flavouring' impact, which is pretty much the way it should be in our (slightly narrow-minded) opinion. We're fans of this style.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
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Glen Grant 67 yo 1955/2022 (49.8%, Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection for LMDW, Collection Antipodes, first fill sherry butt, cask #839, 100 bottles)
We've had a few 1955s by G&M in the past but we're still waiting for a glorious one, for reasons I couldn't explain. Probably the oak if I remember well. Obviously not a matter of vintage, or maybe because Charlie Parker passed away in 1955? Now it's also the year of 'Monk Plays Duke Ellington'… Bah indeed, vintages don't mean a thing anyway (do they?) Colour: mahogany. Nose: rather a lot of walnut wine, dark chocolate and coffee at first, but it would then get a little garagey, which I always love. We're talking metal polish, old bits of iron, various scraps, spent engine oil, tyres, old toolbox. It would then get more amontillado-y, with those walnuts indeed but also some beef stock, lovage, Maggi, old waxes, chestnut honey, old Madeira, cigars… And wallflowers! Wallflower is a high-echelon flower as far as whiskies are concerned, in my book at least. These carnations in the nose too. There's also a small touch of old-style varnishes, the ones they would use with musical instruments. Mouth: naturally, we were fearing some excessive woodiness. That's not the case this time, we're rather on thin mints at first, tamarind jam, some kind of fruity liquorice (perhaps with some raspberries, or at least raspberry eau-de-vie)… And all kinds of ganaches and chocolates made by today's trendiest chocolatiers. There's also something of some upper-class Châteauneuf (not obligatorily Rayas… well, there, Rayas, what's good when writing tasting notes is that you may quote the most expensive drinks and comestibles… for free! So rather mention Rayas than any lousy wee Châteauneuf brands exclusive to discount supermarkets...) Let's go on, with many raisins and currants, especially the most intense deep-dried black ones, some rancio, and just a lot more chocolate. And moist pipe tobacco. Finish: I just cannot not think of the very best old armagnacs at this point. More raisins of all kinds, this liquorice again, perhaps a little coffee liqueur, and in the aftertaste, a lot of dark chocolate plus raspberry and apricot eau-de-vies. Especially that 'apricotine' that our Swiss friends excel in distilling. Plus a little camphor, eucalyptus, cough medicine, stocks and bouillons and all that. A rather fractal aftertaste, which is funny – and fascinating. Comments: I am glad we've found an extremely brilliant, almost mystical 1955! On a side note, we've also found a rather perfect Grande Champagne 1955 by Jean Fillioux this year, so there was no curse against this vintage at WF Towers, after all. Phew!
SGP:661 - 92 points. |
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December 28, 2022 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today Glenrothes 25 OB
vs 30 1966 IB |
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I've never quite managed to recognise Glenrothes when trying it blind, maybe because it's such a perfect allrounder, without many clear asperities (as they say in marketing). By the way, sometime in the 1990s, the first time I ever wanted to have a look at Glenrothes Distillery, I drove straight to... the city of Glenrothes in Fife and naturally, never found the Distillery. (photograph Glenrothes) |
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Glenrothes 25 yo (43%, OB, +/-2022)
I'm not sure it was a great idea to part with their earlier 'all vintage' strategy. I'm not sure it was a bad one either. This baby comes at around 500€, which is a little, how would I put it, pretentious? But as my grand-mother used to say, 'if it works, it's that it's working'. Colour: gold. Nose: indeed, I wouldn't recognise it but I rather love it, with this honey, molasses, puréed chestnuts, pipe tobacco, this wee burnt wood, toffee, millionaire shortbread, coffee liqueur, fig liqueur, black tea… A rather perfect allrounder indeed. Tiny scents of old tools, soot, old cellar in the background. Mouth: the 43% work. It is rather sweet, with more puréed chestnuts (sweetened and vanilla-ed up), treacle, clover honey, mango jam, mirabelles, café latte. In truth it is rather excellent, really sweet and easy, and complex. Finish: a little short, but with the same flavours. Comments: excellent. No, we never factor in the prices, so many new whiskies would then crawl below the 50-line. Forgot to say, the Glenrothes bottle itself has always been one of my favourites, but that too doesn't count.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
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Glenrothes 30 yo 1966/1997 (62.20%, The Bottlers, cask #15260)
The Bottlers have always had glorious whiskies in their cognac-style bottles. I can't see why this one would be any different… Colour: gold. Nose: strong and a little blocked. There cannot be only white chocolate, candy sugar and cornflakes, I would suppose... With water: soft wood, tea, oak, a little mint, celeriac, roots… Well it's not a wham-bam malt, even when reduced down to 45% (approx..) and despite some emerging honey notes. Mouth (neat): su-bli-me now. Flower water, honey, bergamot, quinces, lemon curd… Something's happening, clearly. With water: same, water doesn't change much, which is really bizarre. The good news is that it was already rather brilliant when at full strength. No, wait, whoops, it's closing, it's even getting teaish… no, wait, now it's taking off again, getting fruitier again… Finish: medium, a little oaky, but there's some lovely marzipan, and orgeat. Mirabelle and quince, the usual compadres, in the aftertaste. Comments: hard to follow and you'll sure have to be a master of the pipette to get the most of it.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
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December 27, 2022 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today Longmorn
2005 vs 1969 |
Old Longmorns, whether sherried or not, were something. I'm glad to try this 1969 that I had never tasted before. I mean, I've certainly never scribbled any tasting note for it… But first, the youngster, I've chosen one that could well go the distance…
(Picture, a younger Andrew, a younger Richard, and a younger admirer) |
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Longmorn 15 yo 2005/2020 (49.2%, The Whisky agency, sherry butt, 323 bottles)
TWA have bottled many superb earlier vintages of Longmorn. Colour: amber. Nose: wee whiffs of gunpowder, then dried meats (jerky, biltong), clay and concrete, chocolate, coffee, old walnuts and fresh mushrooms, old musty cellar… It is, indeed, very oloroso-y and very dry on the nose. Mouth: the sweeter side, bags of oranges, some gunpowder and flints again, artichokes and eggplants, not quite cabbage, chocolate, tobacco, leather, bitter oranges, rum and raisins, dates… It would get rounder over time, almost losing its flints that, by the way, never bothered us in this context. Finish: long, on chocolate, clove and marmalade, with a little leather in the aftertaste. Plus cocoa and walnuts, naturally. Comments: rather dry sherry. Very very good, as expected, TWA are quasi-specialists.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
I'm glad I had kept that rather perfect sparring-partner, because see what's coming… |
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Longmorn 28 yo 1969/1998 (56.3%, Signatory Vintage, 10th Anniversary, cask #4254, 220 bottles)
Well this is not a sherry monster, according to the colour. And it was Signatory's 10th anniversary, well done Andrew!… well we may be late at the party, are we not? It's a rare bottle, we've never tried it. Colour: gold. Nose: grandiose, an all-natural cask, and a stunning nose on tangerines, bergamots, chartreuse and camphor, plus perhaps dragon fruit and a pack of menthol cigarettes (as far as I can remember). Incredible, ravishing freshness. With water: oh everything from a beehive, pollen, nectar, honey, old pinewood, beeswax, resin (propolis)… Save the bees! Mouth (neat): almost in all points identical to the nose. Citrus, mint, and some honey to bind everything together in perfect harmony. With water: the fruity 1960s in their most majestic glory. Quince and mirabelle, butter pears, acacia honey, candied clementines, bergamots indeed, honeysuckle and mullein syrup… Finish: perhaps not the longest ever, but these fruits and honeys are just perfectly perfect. Comments: Only the backbone or structure was a tiny wee tad flabbier and 'sweet', if I humbly may, which will prevent me from going even higher than...
SGP:741 - 92 points. |
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December 26, 2022 |
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The Time Warp Sessions today Glenlivet
+/-21 years old |
We keep trying new expressions vs older bottlings, from the same makers and, when possible, sharing similar ages, or casks etc. We used to do that often in the olden days, it was time to keep reviving that tradition on wee WF!
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Glenlivet 21 yo 'Sample Room Collection' (43%, OB, +/-2022)
We last tried the regular Glenlivet 21 years old 'Archive' in… 2006, but we had really liked it back then (WF 87). Time to try a newer expression and check if it's kept its reassuring, very faintly smoky old-schoolness in this new guise that now includes a finishing in Cognac, Port and Oloroso… Colour: gold. Nose: I have the impression that it became more floral, kind of fresher, with more dandelions, also orange juice, also stewed mirabelles… But indeed this is not the old 'Archive'. I'm finding this extremely nice, but perhaps less old-school that it was earlier. Probably less core-quality sherry in there, and consequently, more vanilla. What's sure is that it's still an upper-class Speysider on the nose. Mouth: much maltier, much more on cakes straight from the oven, brownies, palo cortado… We're also finding a little mint, some camphory elements, angelica, aniseed, liquorice… While the lower strength doesn't seem be a problem here, on the contrary. There's even a little rancio in the background, and prunes. Finish: medium, perhaps even a little short, but some raisins and some coffee are flying to the rescue. A little black tea and just oak in the aftertaste. Comments: an excellent expression, one of the best within the official range, which got funnily modern on the nose, and extremely classical on the palate. I have the feeling that our score needs not be changed from that of the older 21 'Archive'. Having said that, quite intriguingly, they say that 'The brand recommends pairing with brie, green olive tapenade, and roasted almonds.' Roasted almonds?
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Glenlivet 1972 (58.5%, Gordon & MacPhail, Sestante import, Distillery label, 75cl, +/-1992)
This one came with a cork stopper. We've guestimated the year when it was bottled, that couldn't have been much later anyway as it is a 75cl bottle that, by the way, stems from the wonderful Golden Promise Bar in Paris. Actually, it's probably younger than 21, perhaps around 18? Or even 15? We've never tried this one. Colour: amber. Nose: classic deep and thicker sherry, yet I wouldn't say it is a 'sherry monster', it's more delicate than that. In truth you have the impression of visiting Bodega Tradicion (or any other high-end bodega within the magic triangle), copita in hand. Fino, amontillado, palo cortado, oloroso, then the various old glories, but not much sweet PX or moscatel. You may then add teaspoons of old balsamico, artisanal soy sauce, some pipe tobacco, some old armagnac, vieille prune… And rather a lot of chocolate. Rather magnifico. With water: some kind of very high-end bouillon that posh restaurants would only serve around 2 or 3am on January 1. Notes of artisanal biltong too, as well as cooked ceps. Cigars. Mouth (neat): starts a little syrupy, with some coffee liqueur and some sweet pepper cordial, with various dried and candied fruits kicking in successively, in a very traditional (and Christmassy) manner. Dried apricots, candied oranges, beerawecka, dates filled with marzipan, and yeah, Christmas cake. Fewer salty elements than on the nose, no bouillon, soy sauce and so on, this far. With water: old Ténarèze! Loads of chocolate and tobacco, and a much drier profile altogether. Finish: long, all on chocolate and just a marvellous old oloroso. Corinthian currants and tobacco in the aftertaste. Rather no bouillon in the aftertaste , some marmalade instead. Comments: I believe this is an ode to bottle aging. We'll keep a sample and next time G&M release an 1972, we'll try both head-to-head.
SGP:561 - 92 points. |
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December 25, 2022 |
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Christmas Special, a Verticale of the Grandest Cognacs... and Peace, hopefully |
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| At Whiskyfun, it's become a tradition to try cognacs on Christmas Day, even more so when Christmas falls on a Sunday, while let's remember what Gustav Mahler said, 'tradition is not the worship of ashes, but the preservation of fire.' Hope the spirits industry as a whole will remember that forever. Good, as for this little verticale, we'll focus on the 1948-1919 vintages and assume that the lot numbers are vintage statements in moderate disguise. Which, between us, they are. Right. Let's just have a little 55 years old youngster as the apéritif… |
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Petite Champagne 55 yo 1967/2022 (57.3%, Michiel Wigman, Precious Moments, 120 bottles)
I know, hardly a youngster. But all people involved are indeed youngsters, Michiel who did the bottling, Hans who did the label, Jimi who composed the soundtrack in 1967, and obviously the lady on the label… Colour: amber. So, no purple haze. Nose: cracking. Some maltiness (really), then abundant yellow jams (mirabelle, melon), then raisins and really a feeling of a perfect old ex-refill Speysider, such as an old B******e from Dufftown. Quince jelly. With water: I said quince jelly! And popcorn, nougat, crema Catalana… Mouth (neat): boy does it rock. Big, loud, massive, full of mirabelles, quinces, turmeric, even ginger, cinnamon, white pepper… You would almost believe this was a very old cognac that's been treated as if it were malt whisky. By some fearless Scots, for example… With water: great fun with water. If you keep it above 50% vol., it's malt whisky (quite), whereas if you bring it down to +/-45%, raisins, preserved peaches, figs and plums would make it totally… Cognacqy. That's all rather spectacular, who said water was unnecessary? Finish: rather long, still a bit between both worlds. Comments: kudos to everyone involved, except that this makes for a bad apéritif: too high, but my fault.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
On to the very old ones... |
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François Voyer 'Lot 48 – La Montgolfière en Bois' (49.2%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2022)
This post-WWII Grande Champagne had been kept in a demi-john, we don't know when it was drawn out of wood. Montgolfière means hot-air balloon, the Montgolfier brothers having invented that nifty device (first flight in 1783). Colour: amber. Nose: it's a wonderful, aromatic and yet rather earthy and herbal old cognac, with first the much expected quintet of aromas, liquorice, raisins, preserved peaches, camphor and eucalyptus. It doesn't stop there though, displaying many half-dried, half-fermented fruits, especially figs and apricots, plus orange blossom and meadow honey. Some wonderful touches of peppermint and furniture polish in the background. This one's kept all of its original brightness, and yet has become superbly mature. Mouth: I believe they shouldn't have waited another week when they decided to fill this demi-john. Neither should they have done that one week earlier, as there is this slightly fragile, but perfect feeling of equilibrium between everything from the wood and everything from the spirit, plus everything that's been generated by 'the interplay' over the years. Long story short, there's rather a lot of chocolate, also flower jellies and syrups, also many tertiary flavours, rather around teas, herbal Xmas tea (star anise, thyme, clove)… Add to that strong, tannic honeys, such as our beloved chestnut honey. Finish: even in the finish the wood doesn't show as such. Wonderful. Mint, chocolate and chamomile in the aftertaste. Comments: a feeling of liquid thin mints at times. Love thin mints!
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
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Maison Prunier 'Lot N°47' (57.8%, Through The Grapevine, LMDW, Grande Champagne, 2022)
This glorious 1947 cognac first spent 70 years in wood in a damp warehouse (chai humide), and was then transferred to demi-johns, where it only spent 5 additional years prior to bottling. Colour: dark red amber. Nose: it's not uncommon that some old cognacs would first nose like some great old bourbon, such as, in this case, Old Fitzgerald. Amazing varnishes, ripe bananas, savoury/honeyed sauces, hoisin, furniture polish, also wisteria and lilies, humus, black garden earth… With water: love this wood glue! And the pine needles, dried porcini, meats (beef jerky, bresaola), orange zests, and even these few drops of old oloroso. A few tropical fruits way back in the background. Mouth (neat): I'm not sure I've ever tasted any 70 years old spirit that was this powerful. Once again, there is a lot of chocolate, then black tea, liquorice wood and thyme tea… I believe water is almost obligatory. With water: it's rather funny that it would now 'join' the 1948 as far as styles are concerned, with a similar feeling of 'cask disgorged just at the right moment'. We're right on Jaffa cakes and, indeed, thin mints. Finish: long, this time with some tobacco and something a little rustic (very pleasantly so) that would perhaps rather hint at some very old Ténarèze. Old walnuts, walnut wine, amontillado, clove, marmalade… Comments: we sometimes say that old spirits converge. Well, that's even more the case between (some) cognac and (some) armagnac, which should surprise no one. Another perfect old cognac that's older than most of us.
SGP:461 - 91 points. |
Alienor.org, Musées de la Ville de Cognac
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Prunier 'Lot 40' (55%, The Whisky Mercenary, Grande Champagne, 42 bottles, 2021)
Perhaps another demi-john, or is this older than 80 years? This is certainly a 1940, so clearly wartime cognac. No ideas if they keep distilling in wartime Ukraine, we certainly hope so, perhaps their famous vodka 'Nemiroff'? They also make 'cognac' brandy but I don't think I've ever tried any. Colour: dark amber. Nose: some burnt oak and many spices at first, surely some dark chocolate and some espresso, then molasses, black raisins and tamarind. It's not that it's locked, but water should make wonders here… With water: old style, more on meaty, savoury notes, beef stock, lovage, onion soup, olives, and even a little shochu, plus camphor. This is terrific. Many dried figs, large or small, are singing in the choir in the back. Mouth (neat): very concentrated, very piney and even tarry at first, with a lot of toffee, raisins, and a feeling of 'old sherry monster from Speyside'. Absolutely! No gamey flavours so far. Oh and it wants, even begs for water. With water: water brings out more wood, black tea, raw chocolate, grape pips, and simply oloroso. Now many currants do keep it afloat, so to speak. This part would suggest that this cognac did, indeed, spend its whole long life in oak. Finish: long, and rather more on old pineau, PX, or Banyuls, but always with a lot of chocolate. More spices in the aftertaste, led by cinnamon, then caraway and clove. A little oregano, perhaps. Comments: I believe we shall use the word equilibrium once more.
SGP:361 - 90 points. |
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Vallein Tercinier 'Lot N°38' (42.6%, Through The Grapevine, LMDW, Petite Champagne, 2022)
So, a 1938, aged for 60 years in wood, then in demijohns until it was bottled at natural strength this year. Colour: dark amber. Nose: perhaps not as fruit-forward as other old cognacs by Vallein Tercinier, but it's still a fruity one, with many jams, cordial and syrups. Triple-sec, old Bénédictine, Mandarine Napoléon, plus some homemade chocolate liqueur, and nocino. Some dark honeys too, some molasses as well, old rancio and amoroso, glazed chestnuts, black turon, and a moka-spoonful of Bovril and even one of malt extract. No, not obligatorily Marmite. Mouth: I do not mean to bore you, but I'll use the word 'equilibrium' once more. Indeed the oak feels, with some old walnuts, chestnut purée, black tea, oak spices and dark chocolate, but the fruits and flowers remain there too, flying the flag of (a relative) freshness. Tamarind, black raisins, figs, dates, also peels (apricot, peach) and thick-skinned pinot noir berries. Finish: long, rather on tea liqueur, more peach skins and always rather a lot of dark chocolate. A little very old balsamico in the aftertaste. Comments: we always try to keep a cold head, whenever we taste some extremely old spirits. That's not always easy to do… Anyway, another marvellous old Vallein Tercinier, perhaps just a tiny tad less bright than others.
SGP:451 - 91 points. |
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La Patine 1928/2018/2022 (40.2%, Malternative Belgium and Passion For Whisky, Grande Champagne, 240 bottles)
The name of the Distillers can't be disclosed, but it is known that this one was transferred to demijohns only in 2018, at the ripe age of 90. The records are impeccable. Mind you, ninety years! Quatre-vingt-dix! Or nonante, as our friends say in Belgium. By the way, the price is 500€. A famous brand in Speyside would probably sell something similar for £150,000, but granted, it would come with a ton of rosewood, crystal and PR. Colour: red amber. Nose: it's probably the fruitiest this far, with several kinds of raisins at first (Corinth, sultana, muscat..) then various honeys and old sweet wines. Add cigars, cedarwood, old leather, old peppermint liqueur (a touch), plus various mentholy herbs, dill, wormwood, mint thyme, costmary… Between us, this freshness is just flabbergasting. Mouth: same feeling, and even something that would remind us of G&M's oldest malt whiskies, as if this had been kept in American oak sherry casks (which it couldn't be). Wonderful, classic dried fruits, Christmas cake (may we mention Christmas cake on Christmas Day?) and assorted raisins. Figs again, dried apricots, dried pineapple, dried bananas, and only a tiny touch of beef bouillon. Dried fruits keep running this spectacular show. Finish: pretty long, with the usual 'dry' suspects chiming in, such as chocolate, coffee, tobacco, walnuts, cinnamon… Comments: in the glass and in my modest opinion, these fabulous old brandies cannot quite fetch the super-high scores that, say their 40/50 years old counterparts could sometimes reach when they're incredibly perfect (say 92/95). But this 1928 remains extremely impressive, nonetheless.
SGP:551 - 91 points. |
And now, quite a coup by Berry Bros & Rudd for Kirsch Import, three new likely 1922s from three different parts of Cognac, all from the house Tiffon! The brands (I agree the word 'brand' is vulgar in this context) Tiffon and Braastad belong to the same company. I've just learned from La Cognathèque that Sverre Braastad moved from Norway to Jarnac in the beginning of the XXth Century, where he married the heir of the house Tiffon in 1913. He took over Tiffon in 1919, and passed away in 1979, at the age of 100. Which just goes to prove that… Erm, no, nothing. Anyway, there's a Fins Bois, a Borderies and a Petite Champagne, which we'll rather have by ascending strengths I you don't mind… |
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Tiffon 'Lot 19:22 Petite Champagne' (41.2%, Berry Bros & Rudd for Kirsch Import)
This Cognac 'should' have been distilled exactly 100 years ago, or at least the grapes should have been harvested in 1922. Unless the mention '19:22' would rather be related to Proverb 19:22 in the Bible (not the Whisky Bible), which says that 'Loyalty makes a person attractive. It is better to be poor than dishonest.' That's exactly right! Colour: amber. Nose: this one has rather more wax than the previous ones, it's rather more on bee products, honeys of course, fresh pollen, with just a little liquorice wood and then old ripe apples, quinces and pears, which is always stunning. There's also the expected trilogy menthol/camphor/tobacco, but in all subtlety. No massive chocolate and tea this time, rather a tiny touch of mango completing this astonishing showcase of delicacy. Mouth: fruits all over the place! This is astonishing indeed, I had been expecting more wood. Same honey, wax and pollen combination at first, then same apples, pears and quinces, which is one thousand times less pedestrian as you would believe in this context. Tiny herbs and flowers are completing the picture, as well as our friends the dried figs, which we find in almost all very old aged spirits. Only a tiny piney/putty-like note reminds us that this was made four years after the end of WWII. Hard to believe. Finish: medium, rather honeyed, with notes of very, very old Tokaji. Say 6 puttonyos. A funny, infinitesimal hint of grilled and buttered maize in the aftertaste. Perhaps… Comments: no fragility whatsoever at this kind of age and strength. Should we really score such a divine old spirit? Isn't doing this a little vulgar too?
SGP:561 - 92 points. |
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Tiffon 'Lot 19:22 Fins Bois' (43%, Berry Bros & Rudd for Kirsch Import)
I don't think I've ever come across any such very old 'Bois', except in old bottles of blended cognac (I would suppose). Remember the ranking, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, Bois Ordinaires. But that's all only theory, as we could find out, for example, at Grosperrin's. Fins Bois is by far the largest of the Crus. Colour: dark gold. Nose: less aromatic than the Petite Champagne, rather more on putty and fresh paint, almond skins, Wulong tea (blue-green tea), fresh bark, pine needles, apple peel… Green and yellow plums too, but no mirabelles. A little plain grass – imagine, 100 years old grass! And grassier oils, not quite olive oil, rather grape-pip oil… I have to add that I'm fond of this kind of more austere profile. Mouth: same feelings, this is relatively grassy, rather on green fruits, greengages, gooseberries, also star fruit perhaps… The Wulong tea is there too, as well as some melon skin, fresh French beans… And green melons. What's really spectacular, this time again, is that there's no proper 'oaky oak' standing in the way. Finish: probably not the longest ever, but this freshness is impressive. Even the aftertaste remains a wee bit grassy. Comments: far from being just 'a lowlander', I'm finding this tighter, more austere style of cognac, extremely pretty too. I just cannot believe that we're comparing pure 'Crus' that were distilled one hundred years ago. I'm not sure the bottlers and distillers know about the grape varietals, though, that would be interesting. Perhaps was there still some pre-phylloxera folle blanche?
SGP:461 - 91 points. |
After the largest of the six Crus, let's try the smallest… |
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Tiffon 'Lot 19:22 Borderies' (45%, Berry Bros & Rudd for Kirsch Import)
Indeed, Borderies is the smallest of the Crus, it is located in the immediate northwest of the city of Cognac and gathers less that 5% of all the vines in Cognac. It is said to display notes of violets, let's check that! Colour: amber. Nose: the fruits are back, both fresh ones and dried ones. In a way, it's the brightest of all three Tiffons on the nose, perhaps the most complex as well, as it's showcasing additional earthy and floral tones after the fruity and honeyed Petite Champagne and the grassier Fins Bois. We're even finding violets (there, they were right), otherwise wisteria and jasmine. Peaches and melons as far as fruits are concerned, a little heather honey, dried figs, marmalade… Perhaps is it also the easiest? Which, in my book, is a quality. Brilliant. Mouth: we're even closer to the Petite Champagne, there's some beeswax and pollen, some praline and liquid caramel, even a drop of sugarcane juice, many dried fruits, preserved peaches, a little liquorice, a tiny touch of chocolate and tea, a drop of oloroso and one of walnut wine, some apple crumble, a tiny cup of mead, some nougat, and there, in the background, a little resin, from the wood I would suppose. Probably the most consensual of them three Crus. Finish: rather long, this time with more spices, cinnamon… Marmalade and liquorice in the aftertaste. Oh and there, violets. Comments: the Fins Bois was more intellectual, while the Petite Champagne was not just an easy old sipper either. Which this Borderies rather is. Well, I am a simple, uncomplicated person, so this is my favourite.
SGP:561 - 93 points. |
… a 'blend' of those three Tiffons is perfectly naughty, especially on Christmas day. Now Hennes-sy told us that naughty was nice. Let's have some Hennes-sy then!
(Press ad for Hennes-sy, USA, 1990)
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Jas Hennessy & Co X.O. (OB, +/-1930s)
An old cognac in an old bottle this time. No ABV statement here, just this wonderful label bearing Hennessy's famous armed arm (bras armé). What's pretty funny is that 'Jas Hennessy & Co' remains the name of the company to this day. It is by far the largest cognac producer, bottler and exporter, and of course belongs to LVMH. Colour: dark gold. Nose: this is totally different, much earthier, more on oils and tobaccos, plus dried flowers, rose petals, patchouli, bidis, meaty soups and bouillons, mushrooms, polishes, old cigars and just 'a full humidor'. Now as for what's coming from the original distillate and what's the effect of OBE, I couldn't quite tell you. Probably both, perhaps for the better… Mouth: between old wines and old spirits. Peach and apricot, porcini, tobacco, earthy sake, Chinese soups (any, really), roasted nuts, marrow, glazed chestnuts, small bit of fudge, raisins… I find this amazing, with all these tiny flavours that have been created by time. Good body by the way, rather feels like 43% vol, so probably more when this was bottled, before WWII. Finish: pretty long, rather meaty, with marrow quenelles and rather a lot of mead. Typical very old bottle. Comments: Angus already tried this one and concluded his note with this line, 'I don't have a current bottling of the Hennessy XO to hand for comparison, but from recent memory, I'm pretty confident it would be sorely matched against this old beauty.' I do concur.
SGP:461 - 91 points. |
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Louis de Salignac & Co. 75 yo (OB, late 1950s)
No A.B.V. statement. There, we have our pre-phylloxera cognac, as this was clearly harvested and distilled in the 19th century. Well not sure it is totally pre-phylloxeric, but if we assume it was harvested around 1880 on average, they sure hadn't pulled up all the old vines yet. Angus did some research and concluded that the brand De Salignac has been absorbed by Courvoisier. So, err, Beam Suntory. This is obviously a bottling for the UK, as I believe age statements were nowhere to be seen in France at that time. What's more, it says 75 years old, not 75 ans d'âge. |
Colour: mahogany. Nose: oloroso, fortified with old brandy de Jerez, plus fumes, dark chocolate, dried mushrooms, walnut wine and the strongest black tea ever. Very old-school cognac, pretty spectacular but I suppose the palate will be hit-or-miss. Mouth: ex-tra-or-di-na-ry! Exceptional chocolates and tobaccos, various liquorices, meats, embrocations, and probably old substances everyone's forgotten about. Liqueurs, cordials, preparations… Finish: astonishingly long, rather on coffees this time. Moka and dry vermouths. Awesome salty, meaty aftertaste, with some old salty-ish amontillado as well. Comments: I'm not sure this was all-natural, it's not impossible that some sauces and 'liqueurs' had been added at some point. But this time, and only this time, we just shan't care. Monsieur de Salignac, we salute you.
SGP:462 - 93 points. |
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A last one, although I'm sure we shouldn't… |
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Fine Old Cognac (70° UK Proof, Saccone & Speed ltd. London, +/-1960) 
Not sure what to expect. London merchants Saccone & Speed used to import many brands, such as Otard or Hine, but this one's anonymous, or probably 'the house's cognac'. These tend to go for very cheap at auctions, but you never know, after all this is Christmas… Now, unless we're wrong once more, Saccone & Speed seem to have relocated to Gibraltar. Colour: dark amber. Nose: some sweet and jammy cognac, rather on raisins, old Sauternes, panettone, honey, brioche, dates… And with a little parsley and fern in the back. That is nice, the whole is nice. Mouth: it's all right, with some salty praline and some biscuits with slightly burnt raisins. Nice marmalade too, but thanks to the lower strength and given that it may have lost one or three more degrees in the bottle since it was bottled, it's nosediving towards the middle and would tend to become a little cardboardy. It is not going to improve anymore… Finish: short, dry. Office coffee and a soapier aftertaste. Comments: a fine old cognac indeed, but while it started very neatly, it all went pear-shaped around the middle of the palate. That's the fate of many an old bottle.
SGP:441 - 78 points. |
No, let's end this on a high note... |
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Grande Champagne 'Récolte 1900' (Woltner Frères & Cie Paris, +/-1935?)
Récolte meaning harvest, this is a genuine vintage 1900! The house Woltner were wine merchants and used to own châteaux in Bordeaux, such as La Mission and Laville, no less. The company's been absorbed but apparently, they're still active in the wine business. As for the vintage 1900, there's no need to further stress its massive emotional and symbolic value. Colour: dark reddish amber. Nose: just totally incredible, almost fat and heady, very deep, bursting with raisins and, to be honest, very old PX, or very old cream sherry, VORS and so on. The feeling of oneness is perfect, this one stayed perfectly focussed over all those years in wood and glass. Strictly no signs of overaging but an obvious savoury rancio, in its original sense. Remember rancio is bone-dry wine matured while in contact with oxygen, not unlike oloroso. Also whiffs of thyme tea and the usual camphor and eucalyptus. What an exceptional nose! Mouth: feels like 45% vol., certainly not 40. Still thick and fat, a bit sweet (PX style) but that was the style of the time. Loads of raisins and prunes, some molasses, chocolates filled with liqueurs, then a growing bitterness, towards long-steeped black tea and very dark chocolate (70% cocoa or more). This awesome palate is perhaps not as extravagantly impressive as the nose, but how could it be? Finish: long and it is almost as if you just enjoyed a whole artisanal chocolate bar. Some high-end spicy tones in the aftertaste, around saffron and capsicum. Comments: another one that would remind us of the very best old sherried malts. But let's not forget that some of those whiskies have been trying to mimic cognac for many decades and have even been open about that on their back labels.
SGP:561 - 92 points. |
Phew, what a session! Merry Christmas to you and to all your acquaintances and relatives. And pace & salute! |
(Thank you Angus and Nicolas) |
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