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February 25, 2026 |
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A new Highland Park craze, part dos
After all, no one can make do with just seven HPs, can they?
Château Chizay, Transcarpathia, Ukraine (Château Chizay) |
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Orkney (HP) 14 yo 2010/2024 ‘Edition #30’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 100 Proof, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt) 
At 50€, this may well be a serious contender for the title of best Bang-For-Your-Buck of the month on Whiskyfun. I would add that the definition of ‘100 proof’ does not seem entirely precise to us, as we have seen plenty at 57%, at 57.1% as here, but also at 56.9%, as with Giaccone a few decades ago. Might we obtain a firm and definitive opinion from the British Crown? Colour: deep gold. Nose: walnut liqueur, bitter orange liqueur, sweet pepper, paraffin oil, lapsang souchong, roasted chestnuts. And there we are. With water: it does not move a millimetre. Perhaps a few dried flowers? Mouth (neat): perfect lemon honey, pepper liqueur, ras el hanout, fresh turmeric, wasabi and marmalade. With water: despite being first fill, this is no sherry monster that would have absorbed, indeed erased, all the HP markers. Including the famous heather honey, but also the shellfish. Finish: long and distinctly spicier. Ginger and turmeric rather lay down the law, yet the saline touches in the aftertaste are perfect. Black pepper too. Comments: superb young HP, slightly rustic but in these times, is the future not in the meadows and the fields?
SGP:562 - 86 points. |
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Old Orkney 19 yo (52%, Decadent Drinks, refill hogsheads married in 3rd fill butt, 375 bottles, 2025) 
What troubles us slightly here is that we know, by hearsay, that this little OO is excellent. Colour: gold. Nose: yes, of course, the fatty sharpness, if you see what we mean, of the distillate is there from the very first sniffs, with, to put it briefly, an obvious kinship with Clynelish, early 1980s style. Waxes and citrus peels. With water: a notable emergence of virgin wool, chalk and cement. Mouth (neat): forget it, it is simply magnificent. White pepper, citrons, oysters, horseradish, pistachio oil… And what is more, it wakes you up, should you ever have needed it. With water: the little waxes, candle, pollens, mandarins… Finish: of good length, yet without any marked change, it has already told us what it had to say. A very, very slight toothpaste side. Comments: pointless. It is our favourite style of malt.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
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Whitlaw 2003/2025 (46.6%, The Whisky Jury, refill hogshead, cask #981, 268 bottles)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: sublime, right on the magical path that runs from Orkney to Campbeltown. You know, HP-Cly-BR-BN-Spr. Paraffin, banana liqueur, custard, sesame oil, beeswax, pollen, apricots and quinces. It is a profile that would suit a great rum, or a cognac, perfectly. Since when have they been cultivating folle blanche on Orkney? Mouth: if our friends at the Jury have bottled an HP here rather than a mid-1990s Ben Nevis, of which they are great specialists, it may be because it rather fiercely resembles a mid-1990s Ben Nevis. Finish: same comments, word for word, it is almost unsettling. Are we dreaming? Comments: to be honest, it is rather brutal, even at 46.6%. Yet a few drops of Vittel (cheque from Nestlé unlikely ever to arrive) will reveal even more resemblance to a BN 1996, for example. We have just tasted a good dozen of them, if not more. Granted, it is a little softer. We mean, this HP.
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
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Pride of Orkney 12 yo (57%, Gordon & MacPhail, twist cap, 1980s)
Adorable label with a small engraving of St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall. To us, the label forms an integral part of a whisky, it is sometimes a promise, sometimes a threat, yet it always carries great importance, whatever the wretched street drinkers of the forums may say. Obviously, one is left to wonder whether Pride of Orkney was HP or Scapa, given that even bound hand and foot and forced to listen to a complete speech by DJT, thus the most vicious form of torture, the charming people at G&M would never, ever spill the beans. Colour: deep gold. Nose: so much honey allied to such gentle minerality and such a maritime edge could hardly mislead us. With water: as very often, once diluted, G&M malts become as cloudy as the aforementioned speeches of poor DJT. Superb little herbal infusions, mint, lime blossom, thyme, wormwood… Mouth (neat): magnificent lemons, angelica, peppermint and honeys. A superb creature, clean-lined, neither complicated nor complex, simply perfect. With water: richness, herbal infusions, mandarins, earth and salted seaweed. It is still very, very ‘HP’. Finish: same again. Comments: those 100 proof were really something. ‘Pride’, indeed.
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
Right then, let’s try handing over to the proprietors… |
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Highland Park 33 yo 1974/2009 (44.8%, OB, The Ambassador’s Cask #3, cask #9035, 372 bottles)
They were half-bottles, actually. Well then, we know it is going to be very good, so this is purely for the glory… Colour: full gold. Nose: varnishes and glues, quinces, almond milk, acacia and chestnut blossom, green melons, multiflower pollen, rice pudding, double-cream milk chocolate and whatnot from Rodolphe Lindt… But how beautiful this is! Bravo Mr Ambassador, bravo Martin, you are the brand, at 100%. Mouth: oh the little honeys and the little flower and citrus jellies, all of it of a quite mad simplicity and elegance. There is of course, behind all that, a whole procession of secondary and tertiary flavours, including a superb minerality, yet in a moment of empathy and kindness almost incongruous in these times, we shall refrain from listing them now and here. Finish: not so long perhaps, yet of just perfect elegance and breeding. Medicinal touches. Comments: I have just noticed that we had already tasted this baby in May 2008. Re-reading my notes, it had been a little more cheerful, let us say, yet at a wholly equivalent level. We like to calibrate ourselves from time to time, generally by chance, for if one wishes to remain consistent, it is of course important. In any case, a superb HP from the greater years.
SGP:652 - 92 points. |
And now, let us also commemorate the fourth anniversary of the invasion of Ukraine and celebrate the resilience of the Ukrainian people! |
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Orkney Island Distillery 25 yo 1999/2025 (51.5%, Scotch88 & Scyfion, Ukrainian Troyanda Karpat Barrique from Château Chizay, cask #Z20/07061, 187 bottles)
This baby was first matured by Berry Bros. in a bourbon hogshead, then in some sweet Ukrainian white wine made from ‘pink traminer’, not entirely sure whether that might in fact be gewurztraminer. Ukraine? 99 points! Quite. Colour: it is actually rather pink, which may suggest macerated traminer, though we are not entirely certain. Nose: very pretty peppers, raisins, goji berries, mosses, peonies, strawberry white chocolate, rosehips, then increasingly Orkneyish notes, mineral and waxy, if not yet saline. With water: much more on the distillate, even lemon, chalk, oyster shells, with touches of lovage. Mouth (neat): well, it withstands the sublime 1974 remarkably well, much as the Ukrainians withstand the poor hordes of V.P.. Pink peppercorns, grey pepper, blood oranges, cough syrup, herbal syrups, leeks… With water: sweetness holds the reins this time, while candied ginger makes an appearance. Finish: long and more bitter, also more saline, while the peppers, mints and dried fruits sign off the whole. A touch of fudge. Comments: it is truly different yet very, very good, quite independently of the context. And I find it splendid that our Ukrainian friends continue to make this kind of selection and finishing, that too is a graceful two fingers to the barbarians. Slava Ukraini!
SGP:661 - 90 points. |
More HP right tomorrow, stay tuned... |
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February 24, 2026 |
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About twenty Highland Park, split over three sessions |
With so many new releases and whiskies from every corner of the globe – not to mention the more obscure Scottish distilleries we love to sample as often as possible – we might end up overlooking the heavy hitters, the safe bets, the big names if we’re not careful. That’s why today we’re embarking on a large-scale ‘Highland Park’ operation, throwing in, from time to time, that ingredient we’re so fond of: chance. Because at Whiskyfun, the only thing we’re truly afraid of is boredom… |
OB vs G&M: Can you spot the differences? |
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Highland Park 8 yo (70°proof, OB, James Grant for Hepburn & Ross, Malt Scotch Whisky, UK, cork stopper, +/-1970)
The famous ‘official’ label also used by Gordon & MacPhail. This was before the ‘view of Orkney’ label but after the ‘St. Magnus’ label with its lovely vivid yellow. We do adore vivid yellow at WF. Colour: amber. Nose: caramel, earth, tobacco, mosses, mushrooms and camphor in perfect synchronisation. All of this murmurs rather gently, yet without being weak or in any way frustrating, at least for now. Mouth: initially very much a mirror of the nose, then the saline and smoky notes begin to assert themselves, with more richness than expected, although we could hardly call this baby a heavyweight wrestler. Finish: long and even more coastal, while damp earth returns to try to sign off the whole, but a touch of caramel and powdered coffee remains in the aftertaste. Comments: almost the power of an old white wine, truth be told. We begin to dream of a 100° proof version, which we know did exist, did it not…
SGP:462 - 89 points. |
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Highland Park 8 yo (70°proof, OB, Gordon & MacPhail, Scotch Malt Whisky, UK, +/-1975)
The attentive observer will have noticed that the proprietors’ version stated, ‘Malt Scotch Whisky’, whereas this G&M version declared ‘Scotch Malt Whisky’. Do we not say that all these details are useless, yet when they are removed, everything collapses? Colour: amber. Nose: we are less close than we had expected, this one is livelier, tauter, fruitier, packed with candied oranges and the proverbial heather honey, before moving towards blond tobacco, chalk and slate. Easier, more seductive, and more… for us. Mouth: same impressions, it feels more ‘80° proof’, oranges, honey, beeswax, all delivered with rare elegance yet without forgetting its coastal origins, as a few notes of seaweed appear, three drops of seawater, and even, perhaps, a small oyster. Finish: rather long and now frankly peaty, with magnificent bitters, on ale and amontillado. Comments: here we are already very high indeed. Bravo to everyone at G&M, or rather, to their predecessors.
SGP:563 - 91 points. |
Let’s return to more recent expressions… |
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An Orkney Distillery 12 yo 2006/2019 (48%, The Single Malts of Scotland, Elixir Distillers, US exclusive, Parcel No.1) 
A vatting of five casks. And yes, we are terribly late. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: lovely sherry, lovely fresh walnuts, lovely tobacco, impeccable new leather, wafts of mosses and pine needles, hints of citrus zest, in short everything is well and truly in its place here and now. Bitter almond and orgeat… Then chalk and fresh country bread. Mouth: smoked brown bread and rather salty seaweed. There is truly a sense of place. Finish: long, smoky, citrus-led, jammy, yet nervy. Comments: a rather dominant HP, but in a way that commands respect. Excellent, and it held up very well after the old 8-year-olds. I have absolutely no idea why I had not tasted it before.
SGP:563 - 87 points. |
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Highland Park 9 yo 2015/2025 (50%, The Cooper’s Choice, The Golden Cut Collection, Malaga finish, 342 bottles) 
What type of Malaga are we dealing with? Very sweet PX or, on the contrary, bone dry as a truncheon blow, which we rather adore… Colour: deep gold. Nose: it is rich and it is rounded, this is sweet Malaga, all maple syrup and sultanas gone wild. The cask’s impact is significant, yet that does not mean it fails to work. It continues towards Cointreau further enriched with honey… With water: the honey takes flight and joins forces with lime blossom infusion. Mouth (neat): strictly identical to the nose, Cointreau, honey, candied oranges, raisins etc. etc. etc. With water: pretty herbal infusions and little earthy touches join in and increase the overall complexity. Finish: of medium length, a little less demonstrative, it settles down somewhat. Comments: rounded and ultimately all about softness. A lovely bottle, assuredly.
SGP:641 - 84 points. |
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Old Orkney 15 yo ‘For Auld Reekie‘ (48.5%, Decadent Drinks for Royal Mile Whiskies, sherrywood, 396 bottles, 2025)
An old brand redolent of Stromness and then G&M, recovered in a very clever fashion by Angus’s Decadent Drinks. Roots matter, do they not. Auld Reekie is of course one of the nicknames of Edinburgh, while we are also great admirers of these rather Spinal Tap-esque decimal bottling strengths: 48.5% is not 48%, is it. Colour: full gold. Nose: oh that is clever indeed. Remarkable how it recalls the two 8-year-olds we tasted at the start of this little session, earth, mead, walnut, also tobacco, Iberian ham and even marrow broth. And as so often, orange then comes along to bring order to this joyful chaos, an ultra-positive term in our mouth. Mouth: sulphur from the distillate, paraffin, green walnut, gunpowder, aubergine, bitter orange… It almost makes me think of the copyists at the Louvre who reproduce, some a Van Gogh, others a Renoir. Finish: long and bitter, earthy, antique. Comments: formidable, you simply have to love bitters and gunpowder as much as your humble servant does.
SGP:372 - 87 points. |
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Whitlaw 10 yo 2015/2025 (56.9%, Brothers in Malt, refill sherry butt, cask #22, 550 bottles)
Whitlaw is HP. Colour: gold. Nose: the exact opposite of the OO, it is packed with bubblegum and coconut milk, hairspray, banana foam, stewed rhubarb… It is genuinely very cheerful and playful for HP. In any case, for now, one might think it was first-fill bourbon. With water: much the same, more lemongrass and lemon balm water. Mouth (neat): limoncello at full throttle and little assorted fruit sweets. Including lemon, of course. With water: much the same, plus plenty of barley syrup and, at last, a few more maritime touches. Finish: rather long, still incredibly fruity yet balanced by green tea and seaweed. And beeswax. Comments: an HP that makes one think of Littlemill, that is quite something, is it not? Or of Scapa? In theory, no. But it is tremendous fun, spectacular and very good. It is simply not very ‘HP’…
SGP:751 - 85 points. |
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Single Malt Scotch Whisky from Orkney 8 yo 2016/2025 (57.5%, Cadenhead, Enigma, bourbon barrels, 888 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: this is astonishing, here we are headlong into chervil and tarragon, bay leaf, then sauna oils and lemons. It is most unusual, very much in a clear-line style, very cold-brew green tea in fact. And I find it simple, yet magnificent. With water: fresh barley joins the festivities. Mouth (neat): ex-bourbon to the hilt, lemon, green pepper, vanilla, all in that order. And nothing else, yet that is quite enough for us. With water: always that very beautiful lightness which, to tell you the truth, does not feel terribly ‘HP’ either. Finish: of medium length, fresh, almost floral at this stage. Shortbread. Comments: it should not be Scapa, yet it could be Scapa. And so it might not be HP, but that was also the case with the previous one, truth be told, even if it was called Whitlaw.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
We may have had enough of these ‘secret’ single malts, haven’t we? Can’t the EU compel distillers to allow the use of the original single malt names, if only in the interests of transparency? Ah well, perhaps not. In any case, see you soon — seven HPs or near-HPs per session is quite enough; we’ll have more tomorrow. Promise. |
(Thanks ever so much, Angus, Morten and Olivier) |
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February 23, 2026 |
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Young Tamdhu in wine vs old Tamdhu al natural
You’re going to tell me the fight will be very one-sided, but that’s not so certain… And besides, isn’t the important thing simply to take part? (Tamdhu) |
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Tamdhu 9 yo 2015/2025 (50%, The Cooper’s Choice, Golden Cut Collection, Marsala finish, cask #044, 396 bottles)
The fact is that we know Marsala can work just as well as sherry, it is simply a matter of knowing which type of Marsala was involved. Colour: deep gold. Nose: oh lovely! Mirabelles and apricots, both tinned and in jam form, coated in caramel and honey and followed by a few very juicy sultanas. With water: finger biscuits and little sponge cakes filled with orange and mandarin jam (Marsala, Sicily, get it?) Mouth (neat): very good, on walnut cake and bitter orange, preserved lemon, earthy vegetal notes… With water: we could almost believe we are in Marsala, right at the far western tip of the southern coast. A wonderful place, I warmly recommend it. Finish: long, fresh, with a slightly tangy edge that perfectly balances the whole. Comments: excellent and therefore perfectly balanced, at this age and with this treatment.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Tamdhu 10 yo 2013/2024 (57.9%, Infrequent Flyers, Pedro Ximenez puncheon finish, cask #800069, 698 bottles)
I was about to begin by saying that PX is more traditional than Marsala, but in truth, not that much. And it may not be entirely easy after the very fine Cooper’s Choice. Colour: ripe apricot. Nose: fudge, soft molasses, pancake syrup, chestnut cream, honey. Nothing to add. With water: well yes, stewed figs and fig jam. Mouth (neat): more or less at the same level as the 2015, simply more peppery and even slightly spicy, with additional tension provided by lemon and Seville orange. With water: it rather loves water, which brings out small herbs, herbal teas, and even a few oven-roasted vegetables in a gentle sauce. Courgettes, for example. And while we are at it, syrup of courgette flowers and elderflower. I assure you. Finish: long, a little more earthy and on notes of leather, therefore less sweet and syrupy. Comments: I am afraid it is impossible to choose between the Sicilian and the Andalusian. Both kind of reconcile me with finishes.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Tamdhu-Glenlivet 13 yo 1981/1995 (59.9%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection)
In what type of cask was this baby matured? That’s right, ‘an Oak Cask’, as stated on the label. That mention has already made several generations of Scottish malt enthusiasts chuckle, it must be said. Colour: amber. Nose: this time there is flint and sulphur from the outset, brake pads (after a few laps of the Nürburgring, as we used to say in those days), cooked aubergine and artichoke… In short, it is not easy, even if there are also some very pretty notes of tobacco. Wafts of fig leaf, not entirely easy either. With water: rice pudding, shortbread, maple syrup, Barbour grease and ski wax. As the Olympic Games are drawing to a close… Mouth (neat): much fruitier, still a little dirty but the sulphur has vanished, while candied oranges and peppery marmalades now reign supreme over this blessed little beast. Touches of salmiak. With water: dried and candied fruits come charging in, first dates and figs, I was about to say as usual. Then all manner of raisins, though never excessively sweet. Finish: rather long but perhaps very slightly dusty, even faintly cardboardy. Comments: perhaps not one of the stars of this magical series, but it was nonetheless very, very beautiful.
SGP:462 - 85 points. |
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Tamdhu 20 yo 1981/2002 (56.2%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #8.32)
Colour: mahogany/chestnut. Nose: incredible, it smells exactly like its colour, chestnut purée and precious wood freshly sawn by a talented cabinetmaker. Then toffee, hot chocolate and café latte. Very, very beautiful. With water: a slight touch of sulphur this time again (Brussels sprouts, aubergine) but absolutely nothing troublesome, quite the contrary. We find ourselves somewhat in the territory of old Mortlach, or indeed, since it just comes to mind, Pittyvaich. Who remembers Pittyvaich? Mouth (neat): superb, on dark chocolate and orange marmalade, then crushed pepper and brown tobacco. Also chestnut honey. Magnificent. With water: the honey takes the upper hand, and it is superb. Finish: long, drier, slightly mentholated, still on dark honey and high-quality black tea. No milk in this tea! Also a little propolis, some resin… Comments: in the end, and despite the magnificent honeyed notes, the whole remains rather dry. A very fine bottle in any case.
SGP:461 - 90 points. |
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February 22, 2026 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
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Twelve cognacs, with a strong thought for the producers |
Yet more incredible flooding and massive damage in Charente and Charente-Maritime. More than ever, we must support the people of Cognac, who are currently being battered by several kinds of ‘hurricanes’, including political ones. And yet they continue to offer us such wonders! That said, to gain a little more perspective than usual, we shall begin with one of the cheapest cognacs we have, the sort that normally lurks on the lower shelves of our supermarkets here in France… |
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Cognac casks half-submerged at Hine in Jarnac
this week. Perhaps these cognacs will become
even more extraordinary than Hine’s usually are!
(Xavier Rousseau, Sud Ouest) |
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Courcel ‘VS’ (40%, OB, Fine Cognac, 2025) 
Fine Cognac, that really means nothing at all, and should not be confused with Fine Champagne, which is a blend of Petite and Grande Champagne (at least 50% Grande). In this instance, we have a very youthful little assemblage of Ugni Blanc drawn from the Fins and Bons Bois. Colour: caramel gold. Nose: blast, it is rather prettier than I had expected, with that fairly typical medley of sultanas and fresh mint. It is certainly not complex, yet on the nose it does the job perfectly well and does not ‘reek of alcohol’. Mouth: it does not even collapse on the palate, although pear is somewhat dominant, caramel too. It is genuinely very drinkable, the blending of this small VS seems to have been handled with due care. Finish: not especially long, yet still fairly fresh and clean. Comments: not so much a Cognac for cocktails as I had anticipated. But right, it is neither Pasquet nor Vallein-Tercinier.
SGP:530 - 77 points. |
Come on then, an old bottle of Fine Champagne… |
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Larsen ‘T.V.F.C.’ (40%, OB, Fine champagne, +/-1990)
TVFC stands for ‘Très Vieille Fine Champagne’, although some sources claim it means ‘The Veritable Fine Champagne’, while the box of this bottle even declares it to be ‘The Cognac of The Vikings’. This is historically intriguing, since the Vikings reached the region in the 9th century, which rather challenges the theory that cognac was created in the 16th century by merchants from northern Europe. But no, this is simply marketing… Colour: full gold. Nose: more on walnuts, walnut liqueur, damp earth and liquorice. In any case, it is very pretty, with no obvious OBE. Mouth: yes, little OBE, rather dried fruits, once again a touch of dried pear, some old PX, tobacco and crushed pepper… It is charming and at no point do the 40% vol. feel weak. Finish: rather long, jammier, with walnut liqueur returning and touches of leather. Aftertaste earthier once more, with a faint hint of strawberry jam. Comments: one never quite knows what to expect with these old bottles, but here, a pleasant surprise! The brand is of Norwegian origin, so let us take the opportunity to congratulate their Winter Olympic team on their incredible haul of medals. Now they did not seem to have been doped with any Larsen cognac.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
That prompts us to try a much more modern Larsen… |
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Larsen ‘Aqua Ignis’ (42.3%, OB, Cognac, +/-2025) 
A small batch without age statement that was matured in ‘triple steam brasero toasted French oak barrels’. I must confess I have no clear idea what that entails exactly, but it appears to soften the casks and avoid ‘undesirable’ notes (smoke, tannins…). Here too we have a blend of Fins Bois and Bons Bois. Colour: amber. Nose: strong liquorice, café latte, dark turrón, Darjeeling, vanilla pods. Mouth: bold caramel, rum, custard, caramel flan, cane syrup. One could almost be fooled and believe it is rum. Finish: fairly long, with little change save for a touch of green apple bringing a very slight and most welcome acidity. Comments: we have found the answer, the cask is plunged into hot water and then charred, three times in succession. It is pleasant and indeed rather very good.
SGP:641 - 82 points. |
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Château de Montifaud ‘Napoléon’ (40%, OB, Petite Champagne, +/-2025)
A well-known house from Jarnac. The designation ‘Napoléon’ in fact characterises a cognac whose components must all be at least six years old (thus between VSOP and XO), although this rule only dates from 2018. In practice, all the components of this Montifaud appear to be considerably older than the minimum required. Colour: full gold. Nose: much more classical, softer and rounder than the Larsen, leaning more towards honeyed herbal infusions too, camomile, Earl Grey, lime blossom, rosemary… And quite a lot of apple and very ripe peaches. A lovely nose. Mouth: same impressions, but the orchard fruits lead the way and are then joined by fruit sweets, honey lozenges and finally those same herbal teas. Finish: of medium length, with a few more bitter notes that are pretty pleasant (black tea, tobacco). Comments: in the end, a rather versatile cognac.
SGP:541 - 82 points. |
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Château de Montifaud 2006/2026 (43%, OB, Petite Champagne)
A proper vintage cognac, which is rather uncommon, as the regulations are draconian since the cask is sealed by the supervisory body and cannot be opened before bottling. Without this, no vintage is possible, only more or less tolerated ‘suggestions’ in the form of codes, such as, here, ‘Lot 06’ or ‘L 06’ or ‘Y06’ and so on. Colour: full gold. Nose: very beautiful, very elegant, much closer to a malt whisky, rich, waxy, with liquorice and wildflower honey, pine sap and eucalyptus. In short, it is very malternative. Mouth: very fine herbaceous notes, fruit peelings, candle wax, fresh and dried herbs, fir buds, then it moves towards citrus fruits, especially orange zests, which is always a delight. Finish: rather long, focused, with a very fine tannicity intertwined with those famous orange zests and the customary liquorice. Comments: after all, it is probably 19 years old. Excellent.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Seguinot ‘Réserve de la Famille’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, 300 bottles)
Here we are in Segonzac, yet one wonders why so many houses continue to present their very fine cognacs at 40%, it is a pity, it does feel a little cheapish. Colour: amber. Nose: oh, magnificent, with varnish and pine needles to begin with, pipe tobacco, dried mushrooms (morels), then a superlative liquorice and even a drop of olive oil. Superb. But on the palate, the 40% can truly be a handicap, let us see… Mouth: no, it is very beautiful, with pronounced oak yet of great elegance, showing coffee, brown tobacco, dark chocolate and finally orange zests that come to correct the slight dryness of the whole. Finish: long, more mentholated and more marked by very black tea. Chocolate and mint in the aftertaste. Comments: an admirably rustic style. We are rather rustic too, so we quite adore it.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
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Du Peyrat 2011/2025 ‘Folle Blanche’ (45.6%, OB, Fins Bois, 823 bottles)
At last a bottling strength that actually means something! This baby was distilled on its lees and is organic. Colour: full gold. Nose: folle blanche is quite something indeed. This one too is very malternative, with a distinct armagnac side (don’t shoot) and an initial development on verbena, wormwood and mint, before apples, pears and apricots come rushing in, followed by dried and candied fruits settling more comfortably. Sultanas, zests, dried pears… Mouth: excellent, almost a Highlander, herbaceous, almost rugged, in any case very rustic. Liquorice wood, melon skin, peach and apricot peel, earthy tobacco, menthol, pine sap… Finish: long, more focused and even more herbaceous. Mentholated tobacco rules the roost. Comments: for your hip flask. Antique and in solid silver, of course.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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Richard Delisle ‘XO’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2025)
A cognac by Famille Cabanne, who have already supplied our favourite independent bottlers with casks and demijohns of simply interstellar level, let that be said… Colour: gold. Nose: herbal infusions, dried apricots, fir honey, sultanas, English breakfast tea. It is extremely classical and gentle. Mouth: a little drying, in any case chocolaty and marked by black tea. Finish: of medium length, very much on black tea and coffee. Comments: perhaps a little elementary, but in the end I quite like it. Did we mention English breakfast tea?
SGP:461 - 80 points. |
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Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Lot 88’ (43.8%, Art Malts, The Vintage Reserve, Grande Champagne, 2025)
Let us see whether we find on the nose the aromas of an old Jag, as the label may suggest… You know, old leather, old varnished wood, oil leaks… Colour: amber. Nose: a complex and irresistible fruitiness, varnish, fir buds, mint, blond tobacco, liquorice, all in perfect synchronisation. Mouth: the pressure of mint and wax, then pink grapefruit totally unleashed, finally linseed oil and a very present ‘oakiness’, in the manner of an old samovar. Finish: always that oak, those fir notes, yet all of it balanced to the nearest micron by citrus fruits and various herbal infusions. Comments: the fir is very marked, but this foresty (and tannic) side remains very pretty. A stroll through a Vosges forest.
SGP:371 - 88 points. |
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Grande Champagne Lot 97 ‘Le Frimas’ (53.9%, Malternative Belgium, 2025)
A cognac made from pure colombard, sourced from a bouilleur de cru in Mainxe-Gondeville. The name ‘le frimas’ fits perfectly with the weather we are currently enduring at WF Towers and in France in general. Colour: bright amber. Nose: honey and wood varnish, Earl Grey tea, paraffin and shoe polish, potting soil, old calvados, and in any case a beautifully firm earthiness. Even if it does not exactly joke around… With water: even more austere, woody, bitter… One has to like that, but we rather do. Mouth (neat): fairly brutal, very woody, very rustic, very peppery, marked by 100% cocoa chocolate and a touch of glue. Still not exactly playful… With water: there we are, it loosens up a little, yet the gluey side remains. A mix of dark chocolate, fir sap, green mint and strongly infused black tea. Finish: long and very peppery. Comments: a rather bitter, extreme cognac, perhaps for the wild ones. In short, rather a bruiser.
SGP:371 - 85 points. |
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Delamain ‘TV RES Founder’s Reserve’ (44.8%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2025)
From a demijohn of pure ugni blanc from Grande Champagne, in Verrières, hailing from the paradise of the famous house of Delamain, of Jarnac. I think that suffices in terms of pedigree, at least for a cognac. Colour: deep gold. Nose: elegant, earthy, on nuts of all kinds, pecans, peanuts, Brazil nuts, macadamia… All of this is rather magnificent and there is here a quite relentless old amontillado side. Perhaps dry as a truncheon blow, yet in this context rather magnificent. Mouth: the dried fruits reappear, but waxes, saps and resins do too, small apples as well, and it increasingly drifts towards an old Domfrontais. We may almost wonder whether it was not an old calvados, labelled by an intern. Finish: we remain on this pattern. Calvados, mint, resins, an old bottle of Jägermeister or Unicum, even Underberg. Comments: magnificent bitterness, but a proper no-fruit beast.
SGP:371 - 88 points. |
We’ll end with something intriguing and rather fun… |
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Strictly Confidential ‘Secret #1’ (62%, Navigate World Whisky, Unspecified Spirit, French oak cask, 100% South African aged, 160 bottles, 2024)
A mysterious spirit, yet drawn from pot stills, while the label tied around the neck displays bunches of grapes… It should therefore be a wine brandy, or perhaps a marc, we shall see… Colour: dark amber. Nose: hummus, praline, caramel, tobacco, large raisins and pepper. Caution, at 62% vol., this is no time for frivolity… With water: light cheesy touches, mushrooms, castor oil, rubber. Not the most classical of noses. Mouth (neat): Mars bars and above all an explosion of glues and varnishes. With water: a sort of vegan fudge, shall we say. Finish: long, unconventional, marked by vegetable oils and lemon zest. One thinks of a fine from regions where fines are not the main production. Alsace, for example… Or the Cape region in South Africa, where the same grape varieties were planted. Riesling, gewurztraminer, pinot noir… Comments: difficult to compete with great cognacs, but the level is certainly high. To whomever this concerns, kudos!
SGP:371 - 83 points. |
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February 20, 2026 |
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Ben Nevis, a short catch-up session
with a wee trio |
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| (Ben Nevis) |
…even though we’ve already sampled thirty-four Ben Nevis whiskies this month. That’s just how we are, we love Ben Nevis… |
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Ben Nevis 6 yo 2018/2025 (50%, Spirits Beast, ex-peated refill sherry, cask #149, 360 bottles)
Here we are in Italy, always a pleasure. Colour: full gold. Nose: the DNA of BN is entirely present, with that wild edge, ham with mustard, black earth, old walnuts, a touch of ginger, leather and tobacco, and a peatiness that is ultimately quite present yet rather discreet alongside this powerful, oily BN. With water: fresh putty and a brand-new pair of Nike trainers emerge. Mouth (neat): the peat makes itself felt much more on the palate, yet as the two aromatic territories are closely related, there is zero dissonance or contradiction. A very fine lemony and maritime sharpness. With water: excellent, even peatier and more thoroughbred, remaining pure Ben Nevis indeed. Finish: long, with the very fine customary bitters. Comments: it comes out punching for a six-year-old, yet it feels like twelve. The peat works like caviar on smoked salmon (what?) A slight Ledaig side.
SGP:464 - 88 points. |
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Ben Nevis 2013/2024 (53.1%, The Maltman, refill sherry butt, cask #3344, 407 bottles)
Here we are in Taiwan. Colour: pale gold. Nose: much softer, much more on beeswax and lanolin, but also brake pad and paraffin. It evolves very quickly in your glass and moves increasingly towards green walnut, which will surprise no one. Three drops of olive oil. With water: a brand-new pullover from House of Bruar. In no way from one of those cheap DNVBs one sees on Facebook, all drop shipping, and that entire circus. Mouth (neat): magnificent Ben Nevis marrying the sherry to the very molecule, with once again touches of peat (from the distillate?) and a lemon tango with grapefruit that is just perfect. It then becomes increasingly salty and we see a few mussels and oysters arriving. With water: archetypal, just avoid drowning it, that can flatten it slightly. But we are not falling into the trap, are we… Very pretty salted citrus fruits and a few drops of mezcal. Finish: long, with the walnuts returning and that slight mustardy note. Comments: we are once again very high indeed. How good this is, one could taste nothing but Ben Nevis, every day, on this miserable little website.
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
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Ben Nevis 26 yo 1997/2023 (50.9%, Whisky Lockhart, sherry butt, cask #116, 78 bottles)
Here we are in Hong Kong to conclude. Colour: straw. Nose: more elegance, vegetal oils in abundance, fresh hay, fruit peelings (melon, apple) and the arrival of medicinal notes, especially eucalyptus and rather gentle camphor. Increasingly a side of soft olive oil, more Italian or Provençal than from the Iberian Peninsula. Anyway, that is merely my view… With water: virgin wool returns. That famous new pullover… Mouth (neat): more vigorous on the palate, with pine needles and white pepper, a touch of horseradish, then lemon marmalade of the sort that wakes you instantly. Very fine salinity as well. With water: the nuts of the distillate and the nuts of the sherry mingle in a wild tango, refereed by crushed pepper. Finish: long, more bitter, as it should be. Touches of aubergine, a more saline aftertaste. Comments: the only slightly irksome thing with these vintages is that their reputation is such that rather than seeking the qualities, one looks for flaws. In this case, there are none that I can detect. Very fine Hong Kong bottle.
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
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February 19, 2026 |
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The World Sessions,
A new little trip from Tasmania to the Netherlands |
To tell the truth, it’s generally at festivals or trade fairs that we come across many of these so-called “world whiskies”, which, in the Scottish fashion, are defined as whiskies that are neither Scottish, nor Irish, nor Japanese, nor American. Nor French either, since we’re French (go figure). These days, that amounts to quite a lot of different countries – and hundreds of whiskies to taste… Right then, let’s just pick one at random… |
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| Dried elephant dung, as they use it at Ondjaba, Namibia. We’re not so far removed from Islay peat, are we… (WF) |
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Collington Mill ‘El Sol’ (46%, OB, Tasmania, ex-sherry barrel, +/-2025)
Here we are in Oatlands. It is rather amusing that they call this a ‘cool climate single malt whisky’ since hot climate ones seem much scarcer to me. The sherry casks in which this batch was matured apparently encompassed more or less every style of sherry according to their website. Colour: red amber. Nose: a nose of raisin loaf, fruitcake, dried figs and damp topsoil, all complemented by a touch of amaro, ginger, rye bread and aniseed. It is a pretty nose, most pleasantly earthy. Mouth: the casks are doing a fair portion of the work, yet I rather enjoy this very unusual aniseed and earthy side, with a coffee plus pastis combination that could seem really too much yet works rather well here. Finish: long, on peppered caramel, or caramelised pepper, then bitter orange liqueur. Or Campari and orange, if you prefer. Comments: genuinely a lovely surprise, even if it is probably very young.
SGP:661 - 83 points. |
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Carpathian Single Malt ‘Peated’ (46%, OB, Romania, bourbon, cask #2975, 321 bottles, 2024)
First Romanian whisky for me! Colour: full gold. Nose: a nose reminiscent of ale matured in a peated whisky cask; in any case we have encountered this sort of thing on Islay before. Very light soapiness, mastic, shoe polish, farmhouse bread and eucalyptus. It is amusing, though not exactly easy. Mouth: a thousand times better on the palate than on the nose, already fruitier (citrus), then with lovely white and pink peppercorns. It is the fate of many very young whiskies; one could almost skip straight to the palate. Finish: long, with a pleasing sourdough note, smoked lemon, and Swedish crispbread with pumpkin seeds. A touch of chilli afterwards (rougail). Comments: a curious little beast, the nose genuinely gave us pause, yet the palate, including its honesty if one may put it that way, very nearly won us over.
SGP:673 - 80 points. |
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Ondjaba ‘Classic’ (46%, OB, Namibia, triple-grain, +/-2025)
We have already tasted one of those improbable whiskies smoked with elephant dung (indeed) and believe it or not we rather liked it (WF 83). Besides, the people are utterly charming, the elephants too of course, so let us taste this recent version with no prejudice whatsoever. One does enjoy that mention on the back label, ‘Alcohol reduces driving ability’. Seriously! Well then, the bottle also comes with gold from the World Spirit Competition in San Francisco, but nothing too alarming, let us not hold it against them if you please. Colour: full gold. Nose: frankly, I quite like it, the elephant dung having been reduced to its dry vegetal components, there is no, well… you see what I mean. Sake, geranium potting soil, pot-pourri, umeshu, green cigars as found in Indonesia, even a Gudang Garam cigarette… lit. Splendid. Mouth: it is chiefly on the palate that it impresses, with a very unusual spicy and earthy side, yet really rather pretty. One thinks of nutmeg and coriander seed, and of a whole array of African spices that we would not even begin to name, let alone describe. It is truly very good, very unusual, yet eminently ‘whisky’. Finish: good length, with a slightly aniseed freshness. Comments: our compliments to the elephants, I do hope they will remember (very clever, S.).
SGP:563 - 84 points. |
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Säntis ‘Edition Kamor’ (48%, OB, Switzerland, +/-2025)
I have already written many times how much I enjoy the wildly improbable fun of Säntis, with their maturations in former beer casks. And of course, Appenzell… As it happens, I do have a secret lasagne recipe in which I use Appenzell cheese, but this is neither the time nor the place to go into that, is it. Colour: deep gold. Nose: somewhere between burnt plastic and roasted chestnuts, then kirsch, pumpernickel and the exhaust fumes of an old Mercedes-Benz. It may sound utterly unlikely, but believe me, it works… rather like an old Mercedes-Benz. Tip top. Mouth: on the palate it is even more unusual at first, then little by little it edges back towards proper malty orthodoxy, thanks to bitter oranges and small sharp cherries. I find it excellent. Finish: long and ultimately more classical, chiefly on oranges, earth and white pepper. Comments: but what on earth does ‘Kamor’ mean?
SGP:562 - 86 points.
Update: Kamor is a rather small mountain in Appenzell, reaching exactly 1,751 metres in height. That’s quite a lot, but still rather modest for the Switzerland we love so much. Thanks, James! |
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Kinglake 2019/2022 ‘In the Blood’ (61%, OB, Australia, batch #1TB2, 76 bottles)
We had already tasted another ‘In the Blood’, though at a much gentler strength. All these things are excellent yet frankly improbable. Life is too short to be bored, in any case… Colour: reddish amber. Nose: strawberry jam spread thickly over a large slice of rye bread, then glacé cherries and gingerbread, in the Dijon manner. Nonnettes. With water: everything relaxes, the cereals emerge in a Fruit Loops fashion, the strawberries express themselves as artisanal yoghurt, while a very fruity beer takes then control. Mouth (neat): the strawberry and cherry jam side is even more pronounced, all the more so as it is bolstered by pink peppercorn. The trouble is it works. And life really is too short. With water: extreme fruitiness, almost litchi, but no matter, it works, and life is too short. Finish: pink pepper, strawberry liqueur and Aperol take charge. In short, everything is red or pink here. Comments: to be entirely honest, we would not forgive this from a large and arrogant Scottish distillery swollen with ‘lifestyle’ branding, but here one surrenders with trust and curiosity. And I swear we rather love it; life is too short.
SGP:761 - 86 points. |
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Starward 2017/2024 ‘Botrytis Cask’ (48%, OB, Australia) 
Botrytis cask, the best of the year, mention it to your horse and it will kick you. It appears to be semillon, thus very probably a Bordeaux wine cask, think Sauternes, but also Cérons, Cadillac or a few others. Or even Bergerac, or indeed the Hunter Valley in Australia. Quite. By the way, botrytis is what one calls noble rot. Colour: red amber. Nose: it is pretty, it is simple, it is packed with vine peach liqueur and sweet muscat. That is more or less the whole story, yet it is pleasant enough. Mouth: good news, we avoid the Schweppes Agrum’ side, yet it remains rather monolithic, somewhat ‘manufactured’, very far from other Starward expressions that we have greatly enjoyed. Finish: fairly long and rather on Aperol Spritz. Comments: not entirely our cup of tea, but if you are an Aperol Spritz enthusiast, do try this baby. You could always add prosecco, San Pellegrino and a slice of blood orange.
SGP:661 - 76 points. |
We’ll stop there for this time, and we won’t take any chances, okay? |
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Millstone 9 yo 2016/2025 (54.2%, Dràm Mor, Netherlands, PX butt, cask #B0309, 688 bottles)
A reminder that we hold Millstone/Zuidam in rather high esteem. And Dràm Mor too, of course. Colour: golden amber. Nose: somewhere between a rugby changing room, a maturing cellar of cooked-curd cheeses (Gouda of course, Comté, Gruyère), and fresh gingerbread. With water: it softens a little, moving towards candied ginger and fresh turmeric, but also raisins. After all, there is Pedro involved. Mouth (neat): it gathers itself around orange marmalade and raisins of every persuasion, with fruit loaves in the background, wavering between apricot, hazelnut and fig. All that is missing is a slice of truffled Alsatian goose foie gras. With water: black pepper takes back control and rebalances the whole, yet we never quite leave that fruitcake territory. I had forgotten to mention the apricot, by the way. Ah no, you are quite right. Finish: fairly long, marked by raisins. Comments: a splendid little beast, even if some Millstone can be far more extreme. Then again, the world news is extreme enough as it is, is it not.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
All right then, just one last one… |
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Millstone 27 yo 1998/2025 ‘Special #38’ (48.58%, OB, Netherlands, oloroso, 467 bottles)
Special 38, that rather sounds like the name of a handgun, does it not. So let us proceed filled with peace and understanding… Oh and we do so admire here the coquettish precision of the strength stated to the hundredth of a degree. Colour: dark red amber. Nose: here is irrefutable proof that they were already producing great distillates in the last century. Geraniums, gingerbread, caraway and poppy seeds, black and grey pepper, clove, juniper, dried morels, treacle honey. Will that do? Mouth: we have rarely come so close to proper old-fashioned gingerbread. Magnificent cumin, old walnuts, fir honey, hoisin sauce and pepper liqueur. Also plenty of coniferous saps, which then lead the whole towards becoming perhaps a little drying in the end. That is typical of these distillates and these hyperactive casks when they reach great age, I would say, modestly. Finish: probably the less obvious part, as it dries somewhat and becomes a little too bitter for my taste. Nothing will rescue it thereafter, not even orange zest… bitter. Comments: rather like a Madonna concert, it does not necessarily end brilliantly. But that too is a matter of age…
SGP:372 - 82 points. |
Come on then, adapting is surviving, isn’t it? And persevering as well… |
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Millstone 20 yo 2005/2025 (48.8%, OB, Netherlands, virgin American oak, cask #693, 135 bottles, 2025)
Colour: dark red amber. Nose: bourbon from Holland, and not just any. Magnificent ‘Saturday morning at Ikea’, though without the toxic meatballs, more lavender biscuits, varnish and glue, vanilla, bergamots, fresh oil paint (come on, Van Gogh since we are in Holland), fig leaves… I was almost about to mention tulips, but that would have been pushing it. In short, on the nose it is a rather grand bourbon. Mouth: magnificent on the palate. Glues, varnishes and banana extract, all in total abandon. I am not entirely sure this is legal, yet here we adore this almost chemical side. Vanillin and geranium syrup attempt to round it all off, yet it ends up on strawberry and cherry. Well then. Finish: very long, spicy, still ‘chemical’, yet ultimately very beautiful. Rye bread in full majesty. Comments: hateful and brilliant at the same time, this is contemporary whisky art. One does not judge in the end, one can only witness it. … Since great spirits converse with the gods… Do you disagree?
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
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February 18, 2026 |
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More secrets and blended malts
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In short, we don’t know very much about what we’re going to taste, but our spirits remain undaunted. And we’re going to try sampling a few very old versions… |
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Secret Speyside 24 yo 1997/2022 (50.3%, Thompson Bros., refill barrels, 540 bottles)
It is whispered here and there that this might be a Glenlivet, yet having no firm certainty, we shall refrain from adding it to a ‘Glenlivet’ session. Colour: light gold. Nose: more apples than on an apple tree and more pears than on a pear tree, alongside a delicate touch of beeswax and green pepper, then light honey and a little vanilla cream. With water: it does not budge. Mouth (neat): this is very much ‘Speyside without sherry’, firmly rooted in orchard fruits, especially apples, plums, pears… There is a most charming bitterness that preserves the faintly sharp edge of the whole. Hints of pistachio. With water: slightly more body, peanut oil, peanut butter, maple syrup, yet always upon a more herbaceous base that prevents it from becoming, let us say, flabby. Very good indeed. Finish: of medium length and above all very, very well balanced. Few rough edges in truth, yet that in itself is a kind of edge. I know what I’m trying to say… A light fudge lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: nothing tells us that this is not Glenlivet, yet it could just as well be many other distilleries of Speyside.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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St Bridget’s Kirk ‘Solera Batch #5’ (48.5%, Hannah Whisky Merchants, blended malt, fino-oloroso finish, 2025)
A very lovely series, here the fino proves rather intriguing. We do adore fino, even Tio Pepe. Colour: gold. Nose: remarkable how one feels suddenly transported into the triangle, if one may put it thus, almost to Sanlúcar. Magnificent walnuts and tobacco, together with, once again, peanut butter and pistachio paste. Truly a most handsome nose. Mouth: the walnut rules the roost, and it is a rule we could scarcely dispute, even as pepper and even chilli come quietly insinuating themselves. Also a touch of quinine. Absolutely excellent for a modest NAS. Finish: long and delightfully peppery, with tobacco and, of course, walnuts returning to haunt you for quite some time. Honey comes along to soften the whole. Comments: I do adore this magnificently dry combination.
SGP:461 - 87 points |
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Living Souls 3 yo (46.15%, Thompson Bros. x Living Souls, blended Scotch, 2025)
No idea what this might be, perhaps there is some Dornoch within? Colour: full gold. Nose: oh very lovely indeed, with wood to the fore yet remarkably well balanced, caramelised, almost candied, with plenty of apricot tart smothered in honey and cinnamon, then a waft of hay smoke. A nose almost joyful, in any case also delightfully nostalgic, speaking straight to your soul. Quite right, Living Souls! Mouth: the spices from the cask take centre stage, especially the quartet of ginger, turmeric, cinnamon and nutmeg, yet honey and dried apricots wrap it all up to perfection. It is only 3 years of age, though one is not entirely convinced that every component was quite so youthful. Finish: long, more saline now, smoky, coastal, with peat stepping firmly into the limelight. Lovely fatness, a pleasing fermentary side, and a rather charming, ever so slightly dirty edge. Comments: another 87, I fear.
SGP:555 - 87 points. |
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Secret Highland 35 yo 1985/2020 (47.4%, Mancarella for Scotch 88 Ukrainian Whisky Community, cask #13, hogshead, 88 bottles)
A mysterious malt, yet we do know that a small number of Glenmorangie casks from those years have circulated amongst the brokers. Colour: full gold. Nose: this does evoke the coastal Highlands north of Inverness on the east coast, indeed, though it could therefore be something else, as the beeswax is rather pronounced, yet not quite sufficiently so to be Clynelish in truth, nor even Pulteney. Glenmo does seem entirely plausible. A very handsome side of yellow flowers and acacia honey, soft vanilla, brioches, banana cake, Earl Grey… In short, a nose for a lady, and that fits Glenmorangie rather well. Mouth: perhaps a shade more nervous than the distillery just mentioned might suggest, and the cask has certainly done its duty throughout these 35 years, adding plenty of herbal infusions and a faint breadcrumb note. Yet the arrival of oranges, including their candied zests, swiftly restores the balance and renders this old malt almost fresh and lively. Finish: of medium length, rather on milk chocolate filled with orange jam, with a touch of ginger, then marzipan. Comments: an excellent old malt that has certainly not spoken its final word. And that final word would, in any case, be Slava Ukraini!
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
Right then, a little step back in time… |
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Glen Avon 15 yo (57%, Gordon & MacPhail for Sestante, +/-1985)
In certain retirement homes there are elderly Scots with long white beards who still debate the origin of these Glen Avon, whether it is Macallan, whether it is Glenfarclas, whether at times it may have been several distilleries, and then what of Avonside… Colour: full amber. Nose: it begins slightly smoky, in a barbecue fashion, even with touches of steak a little over-grilled, a faint Mortlach-style sulphur (no problems in this context, quite the contrary) followed by tonnes upon tonnes of dark nougat and turrón, beyond a certain beef stock character. With water: the sulphur becomes even more pronounced, I would have said Mortlach without hesitation – and I would probably have been wrong. Mouth (neat): superbly old-school, brimming with tobacco, mint, dried mushrooms, slightly burnt caramel, chestnut and heather honeys, dark chocolate, soy sauce, dried beef (Grisons, bresaola, jerky…) … Alas, I regret to inform you that no one makes this style of malt any longer nowadays. With water: dried fruits come charging in, figs leading the way. Finish: long and very jammy, culminating in vanilla and kirsch-laced chestnut purée. A killer. Comments: to be enjoyed whilst listening to Duke Ellington.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
At this point, there’s no more joking, it’s time to bring out the heavy artillery… |
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Secret Speyside 45 yo 1979/2025 (50.3%, The Whisky Blues, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #12312, 91 bottles)
If you will allow, let us forget the guessing games, all the more so as at this age (that of the whisky, not our own) matters inevitably grow uncertain. Colour: full gold. Nose: it has reached the stage of herbal infusions and honeys, also pollen and beeswax, though in a restrained manner. Old apples, a light touch of cinnamon, discreet furniture polish. With water (just a drop): fine old cider, oil paint. Mouth (neat): all delicacy and subtlety, chiefly upon herbal infusions and teas. Orange biscuits, pink pepper, cinnamon… An old malt entering its murmuring phase, yet one that still has plenty to say. With water: a return of tension, thanks to our friends the oranges, which have already rescued millions of different malts in tasting sessions. Finish: of medium length, more on herbal infusions and mint tea. In short, the finale of a very old malt. Comments: it may have suffered a little after the thunderous Glen Avon, yet it nevertheless emerged with considerable panache.
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
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House of Hazelwood 47 yo (43.7%, OB, Charles Gordon Collection, blended malt, 137 bottles, 2024)
Prestige bottles, to be kept in the drinks cabinet of your 1980s Bentley. Colour: gold, truly pale given its age. Nose: marvellous on the nose, incredibly fresh, with ripe pineapple, freshly squeezed orange, mango and papaya. It is perfect just so, no need to dig further, despite the magnificent wafts of wild carrots that arrive thereafter. Mouth: I was slightly apprehensive but in truth it is utterly beautiful, with a faint and very elegant varnish, sublime bitters, citrus fruits in exuberant profusion, and fresh praline, the whole displaying not a single trace of fatigue or dryness. Very fine honeys as well. Finish: long, with coconut milk emerging straight from the old wood, gentle tobacco, well-contained bitter almonds and pistachio cream with cherry. Or pistachio-cherry pannacotta, you do know that? Comments: incredible fruitiness at this age. Forget the second-hand Bentley, for the same budget choose three bottles of this Hazelwood, if any are still available.
SGP:651 - 92 points. |
We’ll finish with an even older malt. There’s always an older one… |
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Secret Speyside 49 yo 1975/2025 (43.8%, The Whisky Blues, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #8165, 86 bottles)
Once again, what a label! Generally, these vintages are or were Glenfarclas, yet that remains mere theory. Let us move on to practice… Oh, and we do adore the screw cap, it has become the height of absolute chic. Colour: gold. Nose: sublime fragility, poised between old apples, beeswax, white bread, cider, mead, sake, even fine ladies’ soap… It is most beautiful on the nose, though such a very subtle profile can cause a little concern as regards the palate. Mouth: here we are almost walking the razor’s edge, but slightly on the right side. You see what I mean… Waxed apples, paraffin, herbal infusions, chamomile, verbena, cherry stalks, then the empresses of very old malts left in their natural state: overripe apples. Finish: not especially long yet with astonishing freshness, driven by small citrus fruits, notably bergamot. Magnificent notes of gentle mint tea and orange peel in the aftertaste. Comments: it has resisted the splendid Hazelwood perfectly, and for that alone it deserves an Olympic gold medal in ice dance (with a pronounced wink to all our American friends, whom we love and adore).
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
Sorry, no 50-year-old today, but it’ll come, stay tuned… |
(Cheers to Absolutely Nuts Spirits) |
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February 17, 2026 |
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A few Dornoch for our peaceful enjoyment |
I think that’s something of an understatement. It’s been quite a while since we last tasted any Dornoch, and they’ve rather piled up on the shelves at WF HQ. It was high time we did something about it… |
(Dornoch Castle and Distillery) |
Naturally, we wondered in what order we ought to taste them and, in a thoroughly Trumpian flourish, decided to employ a highly scientific method: at random! In any case, they’re all still more or less young… |
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Dornoch 4 yo 2019/2024 (52.2%, OB, PX octave, cask #187, 89 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: rather on walnut cake and honey cake, alongside amber ale and even a touch of mead, then moving towards a curious combination of crushed slate and ginger biscuit. With water: it becomes rounder, more civilised, though the slate persists, now joined by hints of amaro and triple sec. The ginger has not entirely departed either. Mouth (neat): an amusing medley of bitter orange, mentholated tobacco and Japanese seaweed of the wakame persuasion. The PX sends in a few raisins, though with most welcome restraint. With water: citrus fruits with honey, turmeric and ginger, then increasingly leather and tobacco. Finish: fairly long, softer, more coating, more honeyed. Alas, the aftertaste turns spicier once again. Comments: the small cask makes itself known, yet the whole remains balanced. And very good indeed, of course.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
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Dornoch 5 yo 2017/2023 (54.5%, OB for Whiskyfun’s 21st Anniversary, 1st fill bourbon octave, cask #49, 63 bottles)
That is right, our cask. We have never published a tasting note, and indeed we shall not even add a score, for that would be inelegant, would it not? Colour: pale gold. Nose: tension and freshness, green apple and grapefruit, farmhouse cider, white pepper, meadow honey. It is, of course, entirely to my taste; the contrary would be rather absurd, would it not. With water: fresh baguette (yes), banana and wildflowers, plus touches of poppy seeds and sunflower seeds. Mouth (neat): the purity of ex-bourbon, here with a fair amount of white pepper over a slightly oily side, vanilla and lemon, with touches of angelica. We remain close to the raw materials, which is always what we cherish most. With water: truly lovely, pure, in the style of the unpeated Nordics, I would say. After all, Dornoch is fairly Nordic, is it not? Finish: long, slightly dry, on barley and bread. Comments: I confess we are very pleased with this cask. Naturally, we are not selling a single bottle; some went to charitable causes and the rest, well, I scarcely recall. Obviously, we are keeping our own modest stock for future generations (should they still be drinking).
SGP: 451- -- points. |
Sorry, we’ll have to pick up the pace… (and not “the pieces”, as that marvellous Scottish band the Average White Band would have said) |
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Dornoch 4 yo 2019/2024 (58.6%, OB, for Germany, ex-bourbon, cask #180, 103 bottles)
It was Van Gogh on the label, wasn’t it? Colour: gold. Nose: close to cask WF-21 owing to the bourbon, yet rounder, perhaps easier, and also more marked by exotic fruits, mango, even more banana, and even a touch of fermented cane juice… With water: oh yes, this is very good, magnificently honeyed and spicy. Kougelhopf dough. Mouth (neat): really very good, taut yet rich and oily at the same time, on grapefruit zest and wax. With water: perfect, especially at this age. Splendid notes of oranges in all their forms. Finish: long and oily, it wraps around the mouth for quite some time. Comments: life is unfair, it is better than WF-21. In our opinion…
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Dornoch 6 yo 2018/2024 (52.5%, OB, ex-bourbon, cask #59, 77 bottles)
We are rather fortunate, that makes three ex-bourbons in a row drawn at random. Chance does things well. Colour: gold. Nose: blast, this is beautiful, one might almost think of Balvenie from the great years. Bananas, quinces, vanilla, honeys, mirabelles. With water: much the same, merely in a slightly different order. Mouth (neat): a bourbon side. High-class bourbon, of course. A clear line, honey, oranges, quince paste, in short everything is perfect here, I fear. With water: very, very exasperating. Finish: the same. Comments: I shall dare to assert that in certain respects, it reminds me of Daftmill. Please, put away your pistols and revolvers, we are merely saying what we think.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
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Dornoch 5 yo 2018/2023 (57.4%, OB, refill bourbon, cask #124, 167 bottles)
I do not quite know what the label is alluding to; the colours rather bring DHL to mind, although we loathe DHL (while adoring their drivers who are in no way to blame, wink wink). Colour: gold. Nose: we are very close to the previous one. Come, let us save time… Ah yes, magnificent notes of crème brûlée. With water: earth, barley, fudge, quinces. Enough said. Mouth (neat): but how good this is! Lemon, caramel and nougat, who would have guessed that all this would marry so well… With water: more herbaceous notes, almost verging on bitterness, come to temper our enthusiasm somewhat. Finish: long, very taut, on quinine and bitter orange. A splendid oiliness surrounds it all. Comments: I confess that at one point, we were brushing against the 90 mark.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
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Dornoch 7 yo 2018/2025 (56.5%, OB, 1st fill bourbon octave, cask #111, 83 bottles)
More ex-bourbon, what a joy! Imagine that we should stumble back upon wine, it would be dreadful for this session… Colour: full gold. Nose: quinces and liquorice. It is as though you were to say Jagger and Richards, or Page and Plant, or Lennon and McCartney, or Trump and Vance (spot the mistake). With water: petrol and acetone, really? Mouth (neat): I promise you, I swear to you, I certify that there is Jamaican rum in there. With water: it relaxes, it becomes more ‘malt’, yet something must have occurred in the life of this charming little cask. Finish: long and, this time, rather pointing towards Islay peat. Comments: we wish to have the final word of the story. Our lawyer is still on the golf course (of course), but as soon as he is back (next Wednesday), we shall send a letter. For now, a precautionary score.
SGP:563 - 85 points. |
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Dornoch 5 yo 2019/2024 (56.2%, OB, for Hideo Yamaoka, 1st fill rye octave, cask #170, 82 bottles)
Frankly, we know the Thompson Bros. rather well and I swear they are absolutely not as unattractive as on this label, which must have been created in the very earliest days of ChatGPT. On the contrary, they are rather charming chaps… Colour: gold. Nose: the grand return of smoked nougat, should such a thing exist, alongside proper rye bread. Let us admit that this nose is more attractive than the label. With water: an assortment of 123,748 different breads, as one might encounter at breakfast in five-star hotels in Vienna, Salzburg or Munich. You will tell me they also serve champagne there, for breakfasts yet more perfect. They might equally serve this little Dornoch. Mouth (neat): excellent, compact and coherent, and close to a great Islay from the 1970s, I promise you. With water: simply superb. Earth, roots, citrus fruits, waxes, smoke and so forth. Finish: Comments: no, we do not provide hotel addresses. But well played, Hideo (apart from the label, if I humbly may) …
SGP:552 - 90 points. |
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Dornoch 5 yo 2017/2023 (59.2%, OB, for Caora, 1st fill bourbon octave, cask #8, 94 bottles)
A Dornoch for Switzerland, quite close to WF Towers. I admit we are rather late here, once again. Colour: gold. Nose: the beauty and purity of ex-bourbon, once more. Unless you happen to loathe vanilla, but I know no human being, male, female, both or none, who genuinely detests a fine vanilla. Also grey pepper, bread dough and banana cake, Caribbean-style. With water: it retreats towards putty and even fresh rubber, which is in fact rather pretty and amusing. Mouth (neat): fairly oily, fairly fermentary, fairly peppery and globally spicy. Truth be told, it is rather forceful at cask strength. With water: things improve, sweet breads and waxes combine with the spices, which nevertheless remain quite pronounced. Finish: long, rather spicy. It is not because the honourable bottlers are Swiss that I shall refrain from mentioning the Basel Läckerlis. Comments: a slight rollercoaster side, yet in the end everything finds its balance around the spices.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
Come on then, just one last one… |
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Dornoch (63.4%, James Eadie, Project 1927, spirit drink, 2025)
An incredible project built around the very heart of Scottish distillate, bringing together a few highly deserving young distilleries from the Lowlands and the Highlands of Scotland, Dornoch among them, under the guidance of James Eadie. We have not tasted them all, far from it, but the Daftmill had been superb, and so now one cannot help but anticipate, as they say… Colour: white as a wedding dress. Nose: earth, geraniums and fig leaves, lemon and citron peel, fresh croissants at five in the morning… With water: a mixture of tar and rubber emerges. All of that fits perfectly with the fig leaf, in fact… Mouth (neat): it will surprise no one that there is plenty of pear, yet green olive is rather more unexpected in a newmake. I mean in whisky. With water: very, very amusing touches of lavender, ham, capers, even school glue. Finish: not so long of course, but full-bodied, oily, and above all very fermentary. Pear and yeasts. Comments: a great newmake, it is so complex!
SGP:562 - between 85 and 90 points. |
In the end, the debate that seems fundamental to us when it comes to quality Scottish malt (leaving aside the industrial cavalry) is this: is wood malt’s best friend, or its worst enemy? Okay, good night, see you perhaps at a ‘masterclass’ on these matters (I still loathe that word; because alas, I am neither Casals nor Horowitz, nor of course Dave Broom or Charlie MacLean, without even mentioning the distillers themselves), one of these days, somewhere in Europe or Asia… But sadly not in America. |
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February 16, 2026 |
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A little trio of official Tomintoul
No fuss here, remember that Tomintoul is ‘the gentle dram’. In fact, the first time I went wild camping not far from Tomintoul, out in the heather – and more years ago than you could possibly count – I mainly made the acquaintance of the midges. But why am I telling you this? Come on then, a little aperitif to help forget that rather stinging memory…
(A very good Rosé des Riceys by the house Boizel in Epernay) |
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Tomintoul ‘Tawny Port Cask Finish’ (40%, OB, Small Batch, +/-2022)
We have already tasted quite a few Tomintouls without an age statement and finished in all manner of assorted wines. Amarone, for example, or merlot, or pinot noir, or tempranillo… We have always had a good laugh, so let us hope it will be the same today. Colour: raspberry jelly. Nose: just as the colour suggested, it is crammed with red fruits and rather evokes a still Champagne rosé, something akin to a rosé des Riceys with its little touches of leather and tobacco and a hint of faded rose. And raspberry, naturally. Frankly, this little ready-made cocktail is rather pleasant on the nose… Mouth: certainly maltier and it is here that one realises the superiority of fortified wines over table wines when it comes to finishing. Notes of cherry-stalk infusion, a little earthy tobacco, and even fresh button mushrooms and pepper. Finish: fairly short and drier, on unsweetened black tea. Comments: perhaps my favourite of the lot. It is in fact much less driven by red fruits than I had expected.
SGP:450 - 79 points. |
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Tomintoul ‘White Port Cask Finish’ (40%, OB, Small Batch, +/-2022)
You are quite right, I perhaps ought to have started with this one, but over here we say, “red on white, everything goes to blight, white on red, nothing moves ahead”. Naturally, in globish, the good rhyme is lost. Colour: white wine. Seriously. Nose: very aromatic indeed, on banana and pear, and even pineapple. Has some well-meaning soul slipped in a drop of amyl acetate? And a spoonful of white chocolate cream while they were at it… Yet here again, it is rather good. Orange wafers. Mouth: I prefer this baby to its red companion, it feels closer on the palate to a light but ‘proper’ malt, with the wafers returning alongside fruit skins, especially peach. A faint touch of Fanta Lemon. Finish: rather short, on yellow fruit smoothies, with green tea in the aftertaste, gently drying the whole. Comments: frankly, I quite like it. And it confirms our famous proverb mentioned above.
SGP:551 - 80 points. |
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Tomintoul 14 yo 2011/2025 (63.5%, OB for SG60, bourbon barrel, cask #3482, 247 bottles)
An official bottling to celebrate the sixtieth anniversary of Singapore, done under the guidance of several prestigious bars, including the Quaich Bar and The Auld Alliance. All should therefore go splendidly, even if one does wonder, given that new make is generally run into cask at 63.5%, how not even a tenth of a degree has been lost over 14 years. Nor gained, for that matter, as that can happen too. Colour: straw. Nose: it is a little hot, even slightly fierce, yet we detect dandelion, hay, fresh malt and overripe apple. All this bodes pretty well, let us see… With water: yellow cherry, gooseberry, acacia honey, zucchini flowers… and always that dandelion, along with other yellow flowers. It is floral! Mouth (neat): strictly between us, I might not have kept the mention ‘The Gentle Dram’ upon this label, for it is very lively, sharp, rather lemony and packed with small green fruits. Apples included, naturally. Water should tame all this… With water: homemade apple juice, orange blossom water, light peppermint… It has not exactly become meek as a lamb, but there is now a very pretty multifloral honey. Finish: long, fairly brisk, more lemony. The apple returns with a vengeance. Comments: obviously very good and, above all, very ‘natural’.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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February 15, 2026 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
Nine superb Armagnacs to lift our spirits |
And I promise you it won’t just be the effect of the alcohol. In any case, it’s always a great pleasure to taste Armagnacs after Cognacs, even if the slightly more ‘modern’ styles currently in vogue in both regions – a little closer to malt whiskies, in fact – seem to have brought them somewhat closer together in recent years, at least to my mind. In short, fewer notes of raisins, flowers and stewed apricots in the Cognacs, and less pipe tobacco, dark chocolate and prunes in the Armagnacs.
There is also the growing use of batch distillation in Armagnac, or so it seems to me… although I’ve just read that it still accounts for less than 5% of production. In any case, between a Cognac Folle Blanche and an Armagnac Folle Blanche, both distilled in batches, there is no longer all that much difference. Well then, it’s time to taste a few Armagnacs, with quite a number of young ones this time. |
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This adorable little Alsatian girl stands guard
at Château Saint-Aubin. At least they didn’t put up a giant bretzel. (Saint-Aubin) |
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Château Saint-Aubin 4 yo (âge 4) (43%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, 2025)
An estate of 55 hectares, 36 of which are devoted to Armagnac, owned by an Alsatian family, just imagine! There we are, five extra points (wink). The house is located in Réans, in the Eauze area, right in the heart of the Gers. In any case, this Saint-Aubin has absolutely nothing to do with the famous Burgundies. This 4-year-old is a blend of ugni blanc and colombard. Colour: deep gold. Nose: notes of eucalyptus, mint, pine sap and camphor bustle at the gate to begin with, before allowing plenty of cracked pepper and liquorice wood to come through, while the fruitiness, though clearly present, remains slightly in the background. I find the overall effect rather splendid, truth be told. Mouth: this time it is the fruits that take the leading roles, especially mandarins and oranges, which quickly combine with notes of that Italian drink with the provocatively red colour that begins with the letter C. Then we have touches of fresh oak and ginger-flavoured toffee. It is very modern, and I find it very good indeed. Finish: long, with fairly spicy oak in command, followed by bitter orange that comes along to bring everyone into agreement. Comments: hopla geiss! (that’s meant to be Alsatian).
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
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Château de Millet 5 yo ‘VSOP’ (42%, OB, Bas Armagnac, +/-2025)
Armagnac remains a rather free territory, you see sometimes they write Bas-Armagnac, sometimes Bas-armagnac, and sometimes Bas Armagnac without a hyphen, as here. In any case we are once again in Eauze and here we have pure baco. Colour: full gold. Nose: here we find a completely different style, much more on black nougat, fudge, caramel, praline, but also wood varnish and liquorice. The touches of Williams pear that arrive thereafter render it rather irresistible, one could happily dive straight in. Mouth: once again less marked by the wood, thus with more reddish (roux) casks I imagine, bringing it closer to candied fruits, cassata, panettone and even the proverbial prunes. It is therefore less modern but frankly, I adore it. Finish: long, more liquorice-led as is often the case, with a very slight mentholated touch thereafter. Aniseed emerges in the aftertaste, for a very end of palate that is fresh as a daisy. Comments: a very young armagnac of great beauty but do be careful, it slips down rather easily.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
In short, a truly striking contrast in style, one to recommend to beginners who think these brandies are all much the same… Let’s carry on… |
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Cloud & Clet ‘XO’ (40%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2025)
A 10-year-old pure baco and a fairly recent brand it would seem, proclaiming “the renewal of Armagnac”, as indeed they all tend to do whenever a new generation takes up the torch. And that is all very well. Here we are on a 100-hectare estate in Mauléon-d’Armagnac, the only thing that strikes us as slightly odd, for a ‘modern’ armagnac, being the bottling strength of 40% vol., especially for an XO. Colour: full gold. Nose: this one is much rounder, much fruitier, much more jammy, much more aromatic, yet without any heaviness. One might almost think of gewurztraminer marc aged in oak and topped up with orange liqueur, although that impression soon evaporates to make way for stewed peaches and sultanas. If the palate is not overly syrupy, we once again have a superb young Bas-Armagnac. Mouth: well no, I mean yes, we most certainly still have a very fine armagnac, fresh and joyful, brimming with fruit, peaches, apples, pears, mirabelles, apricots, and many more besides. Light honey. Finish: not even short, and tending somewhat, I assure you, towards young Macallan from the 1970s. Indeed, indeed. Comments: I must confess the design of the bottle had worried me slightly, but the armagnac inside swiftly made up for that first impression.
SGP:641 - 87 points. |
Do note, this is a Haut-Armagnac, which is not all that common… |
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Château Arton 2015/2026 ‘La Flamme’ (47.6%, OB, Haut-Armagnac)
Here we have a blend of ugni blanc and colombard, thus a rather Cognac-like composition if I am not mistaken, bottled this year at cask strength. I rather like the statement on the back label: “This is NOT brandy”. We shall endeavour to remember that, guilty as charged. In any case, we are here in Lectoure, with the Montal-Montesquiou family. The estate is in biodynamic conversion, though that of course does not yet apply to this 2015. Colour: deep gold. Nose: this one is far more pâtissier than the others to begin with, on almond cake, buttery croissants, custard… Notes of white wine then arrive (chardonnay matured in oak), but also raisins, with a few touches of PX from Jerez. Stewed quince then comes along to gather it all together. A dessert armagnac? Mouth: it starts straight away on apple, whether stewed or distilled, with a slightly green and taut tannicity that then leads towards lemon zest. I had feared, once again, an excess of roundness, but not at all, I was wrong yet again. I also confess to finding notes of single malt with a northern Highlands side and there, I assure you, I am quite right. Indeed. Finish: long, with very ripe and caramelised apple returning with some force, accompanied by its companion pear. Comments: it is excellent.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
A fairly tight cluster for now, but that’s only to be expected: the BNIA had, in a way, preselected these four very fine young Armagnacs for me. They’re good at the BNIA (Bureau National Interprofessionnel de l’Armagnac) – very good indeed… Right then, if we’re tasting the very young VS that follows after the others, it’s because of its considerably higher bottling strength… |
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Domaine d’Espérance ‘VS’ (52.5%, OB, Bas Armagnac, 2024)
This is the estate of the delightful Countess Claire de Montesquiou, a descendant, so I am told, of the genuine d’Artagnan, Musketeer of the King. The back label is in fact a veritable novel, from which we learn that this small VS is a blend of five casks, one folle blanche 2022 #250, two baco 2022 #291 & 154, and two baco 2020, #332 & 336. And if that interests you, the latter two were 500 litre casks, whereas the others were 200 litre ones. The still is fitted with 8 plates, so that should purify things rather well. It is also at natural cask strength, and for the sake of completeness, I have absolutely adored the Espérances I have previously tasted, though they were all much older than this modest VS. Modest? Let us see about that… Colour: full gold. Nose: purified? Well no, we are propelled straight into Sutherland, somewhere between Brora and Wick, more or less, with a pronounced fatness, more beeswax than in a hive, and a compote of apple, pear and quince softened with heather honey. And a very slight sea breeze. With water: the water works wonders, bringing out both more fruits and some earth. Mouth (neat): a formidable sharpness, allied to that oily side we cherish so much. A swordsman as fine as its musketeer ancestor, with orchard fruits as pointed as his famous blade. But let us keep things simple: greengage, apple, gooseberry and small green pear. With water: and here come the roots, liquorice, gentian, celeriac, even raw turnip. And the wines. Finish: long and taut, now very much on the vegetables. And the earth… Comments: if I dared, I would use one of those terrifying barbarisms of which we at WF HQ have the secret: it is a true maltagnac. I know, it is dreadful, I willingly offer my apologies.
SGP:461 - 88 points. |
We need a Ténarèze, don’t we? … And now we’ll move on to some older Armagnacs… |
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Château Le Courréjot 2005/2024 (55%, Hootch, Ténarèze, cask #64, 98 bottles)
Pure ugni blanc from Condom-en-Armagnac and from a single cask. Cask strength, naturally. Colour: gold. Nose: tonnes of marzipan steeped in eau-de-vie, that is what strikes first. Then come the natural, rustic notes, fresh hay, sautéed mushrooms, forest honey, followed by an improbable yet magnificent combination of dill and fir needles. The whole is beautifully balanced and far more complex than it first appears. With water: it does not move an inch, you may simply add a small touch of fresh putty. Mouth (neat): this is simply too good! An explosion of orange blossom honey and fir bud liqueur, with almost a hint of old Sauternes about it. With water: it remains as immovable as a Norman wardrobe, as we say, this time with just a little liquorice joining the festivities. Finish: and it carries on; it is a rock. Orange honey continues to take the leading role for quite some time. An aniseed touch in the aftertaste, as so often, which neatly loops back to the dill on the nose. Comments: a Ténarèze as stubborn as a native of the Gers. I allow myself to say so as I have family in the Gers. Magnificent beast.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
Hmm, how to respond? Perhaps with this… |
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Domaine d’Espérance 2006/2025 ’Folle Blanche’ (50.5%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, cask #51)
Colour: golden amber. Nose: whereas the VS was nervous and modern, here we are faced with an armagnac in the old style, marked by Darjeeling, a cabinetmaker’s workshop, dark chocolate, dried ceps or morels?), and even a few mentholated and terpenic wafts. I would add that it is very beautiful, almost Grand Siècle in style. With water (just a wee drop): touches of crushed slate and mosses, though this is merely decorative, the whole scarcely changes. Mouth (neat): but how close it is to the previous Ténarèze! The same vigorous honeys, orange blossom water, menthol and liquorice, light varnish notes… With water: sour cherry bursts forth, along with its companion kirsch, yet without the slightest vulgarity naturally. Finish: long, with that tension so appreciable in the finest French, err, brandies. Apologies. A very slight chouchen side, though then it would be the finest chouchen in Brittany, thus in the world. Perhaps a hint of olive oil in the far aftertaste. Comments: as we sometimes say, we would require a double magnum of each to manage to decide between the previous one and this one. We agree, that would not be reasonable.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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Domaine de Danis 39 yo 1985/2025 (47.1%, Armagnac.de, Ténarèze, cask #40, 2026)
Folle blanche, as always at Danis, distilled in a travelling still (alambic ambulant). I should add that many producers in Armagnac still do just that. Colour: dark red amber. Nose: at this age the wood plays a greater role and it shows, with a whole assortment of fruitwoods, cherrywood for instance, or rather wild cherry. Quite naturally there then arise kirsch-like notes, marzipan, followed by eucalyptus wood on a very hot summer’s day (only joking) and dried fruits, especially figs. A very fine example of a nose that ‘converges’, according to the theory that old spirits, whatever their raw materials may have been, tend increasingly to resemble one another with age. Mouth: the fruits put up some resistance, though in a more candied, almost ultra-ripe guise. Figs again, also dates and, above all, Corinth raisins. And Cointreau. And a little fir liqueur… Finish: much the same, with the oak gathering strength once more, on black tea and bitter chocolate. Comments: we are approaching a tipping point here, and it is as moving as an ageing Hollywood actress who still has plenty to say. Well, you see what I mean… Superb in any case.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
It may be time to bring this gallop to an end; in any case, we’ll soon have plenty more Armagnacs to come… |
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Bas-Armagnac 1963/2025 (45.8%, The Antelope, cask #DB1021, 73 bottles)
A somewhat mysterious bottling, does ‘DB’ stand for Domaine de Baraillon? Pure speculation, do not dwell on it, in any case it has been a long time since we last saw any Baraillon pass our way, I do hope they are well as we adored their armagnacs in the highest degree. Colour: deep red amber. Nose: superb and even compact, with compotes rather than jams, peaches in syrup, dried figs, chestnut honey, plus those light old-fashioned metallic touches, the sort one finds in grandmother’s ancient copper cauldron. Gentle wafts of moss and mushrooms as well. A touch of liquorice plays the part of the sheepdog here, ensuring the whole flock remains neatly together. A very, very beautiful nose. Mouth: we cross a threshold here, it is sublime with mint, olives, liquorice, tobacco… Above all, the small herbs insinuate themselves, verbena, wormwood, genepy, all under the watchful eye of the liquorice, just as on the nose. It is simply extraordinary. Finish: only now do touches of old oak step forward proudly, yet never causing the slightest disturbance. Thin mints, strongly infused mint tea, dark chocolate… Only the aftertaste shows a faint tannic edge, which is more than normal. Comments: this is deeply impressive and even if I do not know whether this baby spent those 62 or 63 years in cask or finished its life in demijohn, it is truly an ode to the passing of time. Remember, the number one ingredient, the most sacred of all, remains time. Incredible Bas-Armagnac. And so, what is it exactly?
SGP:661 - 92 points. |
We’ll stop there, and although all these Armagnacs were ‘selected’ in one way or another, and we took great care to avoid the run-of-the-mill, we are nonetheless very impressed by the overall standard.
See you soon – stay tuned. |
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February 14, 2026 |
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A non-alcoholic whisky that doesn’t pretend to be whisky
(To celebrate Valentine’s Day
with a bit of a laugh)
I’ve just come back from Wine Paris, where one of the major talking points was alcohol-free spirits. I must admit I’ve often toyed with the idea of doing a tasting of alcohol-free ‘no’ whiskies, but none of the ones I’ve tried so far have really justified it. Some were perfectly pleasant to drink, but they simply bore no resemblance to whisky — and I’m not talking about the missing alcoholic kick. Besides, I wasn’t especially keen to alienate half the whisky world and risk immediate digital crucifixion. |
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A penicillin (with a thought for Stéphane G. Missing you Stéphane.) |
Quite amusingly, though, I stumbled across the one we’re about to try, and it very pointedly makes no claim whatsoever to be an alcohol-free whisky. It isn’t a de-alcoholised whisky produced by one method or another (something I’ve yet to see work convincingly, at least so far). I’ve sampled a fair few of those, including several at Wine Paris itself. That said, I may well have made the cardinal error of tasting proper whisky shortly beforehand, when I probably ought to have started with the alcohol-free options instead. In any case, we’ll revisit the subject properly another day. For now, we’re simply going to taste the one that caught our attention and which, as I mentioned, doesn’t pretend to be whisky, nor even alcohol-free whisky, nor indeed something meant to be drunk neat… |
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Giffard ‘Woody Malt N°02’ (0%, OB, +/-2026)
The honourable makers mention in their charming brochure, I quote, a ‘Lively attack of malt and sherry evolving towards gentle fruity notes before an elegant finale on peat and oak wood.’ That is quite a lot of promises for a product that is offered solely as a mocktail ingredient and in no way as a ‘whisky’. One must admire Giffard’s honesty here, a house that strikes me as extremely well regarded among all the mixologists known to my friends. Colour: deep gold, slightly cloudy. Nose: this is genuinely most amusing, somewhere between fresh paint, soot, toasted sesame, old Gouda and liquorice. A touch of dust. I rather like this charmingly improbable nose, and I am not joking. To think it is absolutely not meant to be sipped neat! Mouth: it is not whisky, yet we are not so very far away, and I find it… good. Liquorice takes centre stage, followed by light touches of violet and lavender, some smoke though discreet, and a faint orange fudge note. There is sweetness, but I imagine it is required to avoid ending up as a mere herbal infusion. Finish: short of course, but not abrupt, once again thanks to that gentle sweetness. The orange caramel side lingers, together with a small note of sweet carrot… Comments: I ought not to score this, granted, yet I wish to record that it is, in my view, a very good product, superior to many whiskies ‘with alcohol’. And after all, it is Valentine’s Day!
SGP:331 - 80 points. |
Bonus: here’s the recommendation from Giffard themselves if you’d like to turn it into a cocktail, and I do mean recommendation, as they actively advise against drinking it neat:
Penicillin (a modern classic cocktail typically combining Scotch, lemon juice, honey-ginger syrup and a float of peaty whisky):
4cl Giffard Woody Malt - 2,5cl Giffard Gingembre sans alcool - 1,5cl Sirop Miel Giffard - 3cl Lemon juice.
A votre santé ! |
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February 13, 2026 |
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Two Isle of Raasay, or cherries vs pumpernickel
I agree, two Raasays aren’t too many. It’s one of the young distilleries we’re rather fond of! |
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Isle of Raasay 2021/2025 (48%, OB, France exclusive, matured in red Bourgogne)
For us, maturations in red wine casks are always slightly worrying (I know, I do go on) but one never quite knows. We assume it was pinot noir, yet do note that there is also gamay in Bourgogne, not solely in Beaujolais. Indeed, fifty years ago there was a great deal of gamay, even in the Côte d’Or. Anyway, let us move along, this is not bourgognefun here… Colour: gold with apricotty hues. Nose: our good fortune here is that the distillate was still brimming with barley, yeast, earth and all those fermentary things that we rather cherish, as a consequence of which the blackcurrants and cherries behave themselves properly and we are spared any true cocktail effect. Phew. Mouth: the red fruits are more emphatic here, the whole veering slightly towards a kirschy side, yet we also find a few impressions of Belgian ‘Kriek’ beer, which I personally enjoy, and which incidentally causes all my Belgian friends to tease me gently. In short… Lyon’s praline tart. It remains a truly good whisky, yet we are clearly within premix territory. Finish: long, more kirschy, more peppery. Comments: but why are all the Scots now using red wine casks? Merely a question of cost?
SGP:651 - 80 points. |
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Isle of Raasay (60.9%, OB for Kirsch Import, Awakening Series, for Whisky Live Germany, PX sherry quarter cask, cask #21/1231)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: Germany 1 – France 0. It looks like the result of a football match from the 1970s or 1980s, doesn’t it? The absence of red fruits is a true blessing, while the walnut liqueur, mushrooms and damp earth are blessings too. Not forgetting the national pumpernickel, which we adore to the highest degree, it is almost malt whisky in solid form. Yes, indeed… But do take care, this Raasay is a little strong… With water: damp earth, fresh mastic, virgin wool and just a handful of fresh barley. Mouth (neat): excellent, taut, certainly young and vigorous, and a little rustic here and there, yet green pepper, smoke and lemon perfectly complete that famous… pumpernickel. With water: perfect young coastal malt, close to its ingredients, without Botox or excessive makeup. Despite the quarter cask, and despite the PX, perhaps it was refill? Finish: long, delightfully earthy, just as we like it. Comments: indeed, I do like this BKaiser-Franz of whisky very much.
SGP:553 - 87 points. |
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February 12, 2026 |
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A Balvenie
and a Balvy
Yet another new name for a ‘blended malt’ which, in all likelihood, comes from the famous distillery in Dufftown, from which we are about to sample — as an aperitif — a 10-year-old expression from a few years ago. |
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Balvenie 10 yo 'Founder's Reserve' (40%, OB, Germany, +/-2005)
We have of course already tasted this 10 a few times, but we have never written a ‘formal’ tasting note. In any case it was not the greatest of the Balvenies, even if the version from the 1980s in a Cognac bottle had been a little superior, in my humble opinion. That was the era when Scotch sometimes copied the attributes of cognac, you see… Colour: gold. Nose: mainly hay and herbal tea to begin with, then a touch of vanilla and fresh walnut, finally hints of not quite fully ripe apricot. It is not immensely expressive, but this is a 40% vol. version, there was also 43%. Mouth: much more punch on the palate, it is almost a little rustic and spirity, then it unfolds on vanilla and overripe apple, slightly bitter woody touches, and a return of the apricots, accompanied by peaches, the whole rather dry. No very ripe mirabelle nor quince paste this time. Finish: not so short, a little bitter, with a touch of lemon zest right at the end. Comments: it is nonetheless really rather good, better than in my memories. Perhaps a little good OBE after twenty years in bottle?
SGP:451 - 81 points. |
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Balvy 35 yo 1989/2025 (52%, The Whisky Jury, blended malt, refill hogshead, cask #681R, 278 bottles)
Thirty-five years, that is beginning to count. Let us see whether we rediscover the mirabelle tart with custard so common in old Balvenie distilled towards the end of the 1960s and the beginning of the 1970s. Colour: pale gold. It is paler than the 10 yo, ha. Nose: I would almost go so far as to call it ‘anti-Balvenie’, so much does it begin on roots and waxes, fresh mastic, a handful of just-malted barley, old tobacco in an old tobacco pouch, and an old tin box with old mint tea inside. In short, you see, all this is murmuring rather quietly for the moment. Water should wake it up as it wakes the cats at WF Towers. With water: yes, it works, it brings out Williams pear and quince, and even cauliflower, but in homeopathic doses, so no cause for concern. Mouth (neat): the Balvenie DNA returns at once, with plums of every hue in abundance, plenty of apples and even some cider, then notes of salted butter caramel. Who does not like salted butter caramel? No one. With water: it becomes even more ‘Balvenie’, firing off apples, pears, greengages, little apricots, but also a touch of kirsch. In short, it is an old Balve… Balvy that has remained rather rustic. Finish: long, close to the orchard but also to the earth. Green apple and a surprisingly marked salinity in the aftertaste. Comments: let us admit that it does not show its 35 years, and that the cask was doubtless lazier than Homer Simpson. Or than a giant panda. Or than the cats at WF HQ.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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