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January 19, 2025 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
Creams of the crops, armagnac is back on WF
After indulging in a variety of rums, both aged and white, it’s time to savour some rather recent great Armagnacs again, starting with an amusing little digestif...
A lovely poster for the 2023 Armagnac Festival in Labastide d'Armagnac, in the Landes. "All for one and Armagnac for all!" say the Three Musketeers, who, as I'm sure you know, were actually four. |
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Domaine de Baraillon 2002/2024 (49.1%, Swell de Spirits, On Tour, for German Armagnac Festival, eaux-de-vie de raisin, ex-Long Pond & ex-calvados Garnier, 165 bottles) 
Baraillon, of course, is armagnac. This delightful madness was finished in a Long Pond 2007 Jamaican rum cask, which had been softened (presumably that was the intent) by 2003 calvados for one month. All this culinary wizardry, I gather, has led to the replacement of the term "armagnac" with "eaux-de-vie de raisin." That said, I’m not sure what would have happened if the Long Pond cask had been European oak (sessile or pedunculate), which is the only type authorised for armagnac, as far as I know. Colour: gold. Nose: immediately bright notes of bicycle tyre patch glue, acetone, rubber boots, and stone fruit pits, followed by toasted bread, raisins rolls, amaretti, and bananas flambéed. It seems to work. Mouth: it’s rather sharp, very peppery and lemony for an armagnac, with perhaps some notes of green apple. A touch of varnish. Finish: long, sharpish, and herbaceous. Comments: has it improved the original Baraillon? Impossible to say… Frankly, one might doubt it a little, but the experiment is nonetheless a great success, and it remains a true armagnac—or rather, a true eau-de-vie de raisin. All in all, a rustic spirit has been rendered even more rustic.
SGP:462 - 85 points. |
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Sauvis 2004/2024 (45.7%, Domaine de Saoubis, Bas-armagnac, pièce, cask #147)
100% baco and a truly biodynamic armagnac. The Domaine de Saoubis is situated in Ayzieu-en-Armagnac, a tiny village near Eauze. Colour: light gold. Nose: this is an armagnac of restraint and elegance, leaning towards a slightly fruity blue tea (oolong) and roasted almonds, with hints of pistachio nougat, then simply some rustic Gers countryside apples, accompanied by a touch of liquorice and freshly crumpled mint leaves. Mouth: an about-turn on the palate, becoming much fuller-bodied and rather rustic, with apple peelings, plums, slightly peppery honey, and probably a dash of chilli, likely from the oak. How to put it—this is not a ‘commercial’ armagnac. Finish: lovely length, with the emergence of violet tones alongside more liquorice and mint. A very pretty signature that makes you want to pour another glass. Comments: one is almost tempted to call this “natural armagnac.” In fact, there are absolutely no additives. Oh, and better make sure to let it breathe.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
Here, let’s treat ourselves to a Folle Blanche from Saoubis… |
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Sauvis 2000/2024 (46.4%, Domaine de Saoubis, Bas-armagnac, pièce, cask #43) 
This time, 100% folle blanche and at natural cask strength, just like the 2004. Colour: gold. Nose: more sultanas, orange blossom, panettone, a touch of sandalwood, lovely big red apples, peaches, and a hint of incense. It’s beautiful. Mouth: as with the previous bottling, it starts with serious heft but leans more towards cedarwood, cherry liqueurs, apricot liqueur, and multi-floral honey, with a good measure of fir honey on top (fir honey is not flower honey, right). Once again, there’s a peppery side, though more discreet this time. Finish: long, slightly caramelised (of course, no caramel has been added), with maple syrup accompanied by liquorice and menthol touches. Marmalade orange lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: a splendid creature, thoroughly malternative. And biodynamic.
SGP:661 - 89 points. |
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Hontambère 2011/2023 ‘Baco’ (57.2%, OB, Rare Armagnac Collection, Ténarèze, cask #TC9, 400 bottles)
I believe this bottle comes from the négociant/éleveur arm of Hontambère, which also offers armagnacs from its own estate, Château de Hontambère. Every Hontambère we’ve tasted so far has been magnificent. Colour: deep gold. Nose: despite its youth, it’s more polished than the previous ones. I was tempted to call it ‘easy,’ which is not a flaw mind you—quite the opposite. Honey, vineyard peaches, dried apricots, honeysuckle, and dark nougat… It’s rather irresistible. With water: delicate earthy touches, a hint of fresh hay, and quince paste. Mouth (neat): powerful yet soft, almost sweet, liqueur-like, very honeyed, and consistently floral. Jasmine tea sweetened with chestnut honey, followed by orange liqueur. With water: it tightens up slightly, focusing on peach and caramel-coated roasted hazelnuts. Decadent. Finish: long, still rather gentle and refined. Comments: a city armagnac—of course, such a thing doesn’t exist, but if it did, it would taste like this. Excellent. Careful, don’t add too much water.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
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Domaine de Rounagle 1998/2024 (56.5%, Zero Nine Spirits, Ténarèze, 207 bottles)
A blend of ugni blanc and colombard, with a scary chap on the label who should give no hint whatsoever of the impact of this little Ténarèze, well I presume. The Rounagle 2007 by Zero Nine Spirits was excellent. The estate is located near Condom. Colour: amber. Nose: magnificent, with a colossal tarte Tatin and loads of roasted hazelnuts, followed by very ripe, juicy peaches and a touch of butterscotch. It’s the remarkable compactness that impresses here. With water: superb—beef jerky and a touch of smoky tea. Mouth (neat): the oak takes centre stage, with pine resin, candied orange zest coated in dark chocolate, and a sprinkle of black pepper. The wood is deeply in harmony with the distillate. Finish: long, woody, spicy, chocolatey, and mentholated. Very ‘old-school Ténarèze.’ Comments: it’s the simplicity of the whole that is so admirable here. Abstract art—the kind of thing a bistro owner might pull out from under the counter in the Gers.
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
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Pellehaut 35 yo 1988/2024 (49.7%, Grape of the Art, Ténarèze, cask #F6, 230 bottles) 
This is ugni blanc—and indeed another Ténarèze. Ténarèze is hip. By the way, they make an excellent Côtes-de-Gascogne petit manseng at Pellehaut. Colour: reddish dark amber. Nose: right, it’s good, it works. Peonies, vineyard peaches, old Sauternes, dried apricots, chestnut honey, maple syrup, prunes, and warm caramel still bubbling in the pan. A tiny touch of varnish and a fig leaf. Mouth: it’s lovely to feel the age here—we’re not far from the Rounagle, though this has ten more years under its belt. Thin mints (After Eights—do they still make them?), fruity pipe tobacco, figs, a few pine needles—something we’ve all chewed during walks in the woods—and very dark, almost black honey, loaded with (soft) tannins. Then there’s a return of dark chocolate and cocoa powder. Finish: long, earthier, with a classic development. Liquorice wood, along with a touch of citrus and a hint of chilli in the aftertaste. Comments: we also tried it with two drops of water, but there wasn’t much change. Yet another very remarkable creature.
SGP:571 - 90 points. |
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Sabine Dulhoste 40 yo 1984/2024 (52.9% Amateur Spirit, Bas-armagnac)
This is baco from a very small farm estate. I’ve read some wild things about this bottle. The prices for these, which seem to sell out in a flash, would make everyone at Bloomberg TV weep. Colour: reddish dark amber. Nose: raspberry ganache, honeys, gianduja, nougat, and cane molasses, with a faint hint of rose petal. Perfectly focused and precise, with no detours. With water: touches of varnish, kirsch, marzipan, and potting soil emerge—of course, we love that. Mouth (neat): the exact opposite—it’s almost like a blend of very old calvados, very old rum, very old malt, and obviously, very old armagnac. A remarkable feeling, but it’s often said that old spirits tend to converge over time indeed. With water: the armagnac takes centre stage (as it should). Very light sweetness. Finish: the apples haven’t had their final word. A beautiful finale, surprisingly fresh despite a slight liqueur-like richness. Dried raisins soaked in kirsch linger in the aftertaste. Comments: it’s better and more spectacular without water. A splendid bottle, and sometimes a true treasure hunt in your glass.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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Garreau 1967/2024 ‘Lust’ (46.4%, Distilia and Robert Bauer, The Sins, Bas-armagnac, cask #11, 168 bottles)
An admirable series that reimagines the concept of the seven deadly sins in a much more positive light (and without needing to hire Brad Pitt or Morgan Freeman), well, well... Colour: dark reddish amber. Nose: we find the same compactness, or rather coherence, displayed by the S. Dulhoste, though no doubt due to the age, this leans even more towards fruits stewed in wine, pears, peaches, melon, mint leaves, fresh coriander, Sauternes, sweet Jurançon, and sultanas… It’s gentle and rounded on the nose, and yes, as a result, it’s truly a sin—though not a mortal one. Mouth: it begins in an almost oriental fashion, with Turkish delights, mint tea, pine nuts, and plenty of orange blossom (makrouts, angel hair pastries) … It then gradually transitions to stewed or very ripe fruits, reaches blood oranges, and finishes with touches of classic mint and liquorice, always with softness. Finish: gentle, almost easy. The wood is present but never imposes itself. Comments: when someone says ‘1967’ I think Jimi Hendrix, but I must admit there were also some marvellous spirits distilled that year. Here’s an example—by far the best Garreau I’ve ever tasted, I think. It’s true that, like most other house, in the old days they used to somewhat ruin their casks by bottling their ‘vintages’ at 40% ABV. What madness it was, but that was how it was done.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
I’d like to add that a session like the one we’ve just had is ‘pre-selected’, unlike what we do with whiskies or rums. With brandies, we avoid right from the start the overly commercial versions, high-volume productions, or those intended for supermarkets – even though there can occasionally be pleasant surprises. Anyway, we’ll try to be back with more armagnac next week, stay tuned. |
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January 18, 2025 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
A trip to China part 1: Laizhou Distillery
I was recently, and rather unexpectedly, sent samples of two different new Chinese distilleries. I haven’t tried any of the various new Chinese whiskies that are beginning to emerge, so I thought we’d do a couple of separate posts exploring these new makes. |
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Laizhou ‘Blender Inaugural Edition’ (43%, OB, China, single blend, 1,999 bottles, +/-2024) 
A new, what we would term, ‘single blend’, from Laizhou Distillery featuring 70% malt and 30% grain, fully matured in 1st fill wood and apparently composed of 52 cask types according to the website. Not sure I could list 52 first fill cask types off the top of my head. Colour: gold. Nose: peaches and cream, with resinous pine wood, caraway and rice wine notes. Also some yellow plums and a touch of coconut and cedar wood. Very easy and elegant and clearly dominated by the richer malt components. Mouth: light but elegant once again, dominated by subtle coconut, jasmine tea and soft herbal notes. What’s most impressive is that, for all the talk of cask type and first fill oak, there’s actually a notable restraint in terms of woodiness. I find it relatively well balanced and easy for a youthful blend. Finish: medium in length, getting spicier and with slightly more grippy and peppery wood. Some green pepper and ginger powder. Comments: a very classy composition that feels like it has been done with real care and precision. For a young blend this is a high score in my book.
SGP: 451 - 80 points. |
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Laizhou ‘Single Malt Inaugural Edition’ (46%, OB, China, single malt, 2024) 
The inaugural single malt release of Laizhou Distillery in China. This should be relatively young in terms of age and apparently is composed of whisky matured in over ten different cask types, including Mongolian oak. Colour: bright orangey gold. Nose: there’s an impressive richness and depth at first, with some feelings of warmer climate maturation influences, such as a thicker ‘fruit salad’ style fruitiness up front. This then evolves quickly to more assertive notes from the wood, such as ground ginger, coconut and a little earthy turmeric impression. But overall, I think they’ve done a very good job in disguising age and not letting oak run riot on the aroma profile. Do so many varying cask influences sort of keep each other in check? Mouth: similar feelings to the nose. Rather a lot of crystallised ginger, fresh orange peel, spiced marmalade and cheng pi (wonderful dried and aged citrus peels). Also wee notes of clove, five spice and aniseed, it does feel rather ‘Chinese’ in a way - not that I am in any way qualified to judge such things. The oak is ever-present but never quite goes over the top, which is good news again. Finish: short-medium, rather prickly with spices, juniper, aniseed, orange liqueur and indeed, some impressions of rice wine. Comments: I find this very impressive, it disguises the more immature and imbalanced aspects of youth without overtly relying of aggressive oak, even though it is clearly displaying significant and varied oak influence. I wonder if all that cask variety is quite a smart trick in that sense? I also like this because it feels clearly like whisky with a Chinese accent that stands distinct from modern Scottish and wider European examples. Now, it’s still pretty young, but should be a fun one to revisit as it evolves…
SGP: 651 - 84 points. |
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We have a rule on Whiskyfun that we don’t score cask samples, but I think we could have a wee peek at one or two that were included along with these new official bottlings… |
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Laizhou 2022 / 2024 (66%, OB, XiangXiu yellow wine, cask sample)
Yellow wine is a type of sweet Chinese rice spirit, so this should in theory make a highly distinctive Chinese style of whisky. Colour: deep orangey gold. Nose: rich and funky, with immediate impressions of glue and cheese curds that make you think straight away of some Jamaican rums, only here there’s also some more subtle things like brown sugar, pomegranate molasses and bitter orange marmalade. I would add that it’s also fairly spicy with classical oak spice impressions. With water: becomes much more direct and classical, in the sense that it behaves like a young, active oak matured malt whisky, in a positive sense of that assessment. Rich wood spices, breads, some herbal teas, ointments and putty. Mouth: not as extreme as the nose might have suggested, and even in extreme youth and high ABV this is pretty approachable. It has a more distinctive wood and spice profile on the palate and these funkier aspects are more subdued, overall it shows a funky fruity character, with fruit salad juices and overripe exotic fruits. Also quite a few impressions of strongly brewed, tannic teas and aged, dried fruits. With water: retains this distinctive, overripe, funky fruitiness, also some really strong notes of rice wine come through now, which isn’t at all surprising I suppose. Finish: quite long, a little sappy and peppery, some coconut, oak vanillin and more assorted spiced and fruit teas. Comments: I think it’s very smart that they would use these kinds of domestic casks to build and define a Chinese style of malt whisky. The profile of these casks on their own is rather jarring and discombobulating to a palate used to Scottish, American and European whiskies etc, but you can start to see how they can be real assets in blending.
SGP: 661 - no score. |
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Laizhou 2022 / 2024 (68%, OB, new Spanish oak medium+ toast, cask sample)
Colour: ruby/amber. Nose: closer to what we’d term modern, highly extractive sherry casks, even though I doubt there’s any sherry involved. What we have is loads of big, toasty, creamy spicy characteristics, with freshly baked pumpernickel bread, spiced winter ales, dark fruit chutneys, cloves, aniseed and bitter dark chocolate. With water: rosewood, pot pourri, cinnamon buns, camphor and varnish. Mouth: undeniably very intense and wood-dominated, it certainly feels like a warm climate has sort of microwaved this cask in a compressed space of time. Having said that, it’s clean and very richly spiced with a balancing influence of bread and beer flavours. With water: heavy, spicy, back on varnish, aniseed, camphor and grippy oak spices. Finish: long and very tannic with bitter oak spices and cocoa. Comments: too extreme for me, but as a blending component, tasted alongside the XiangXiu cask, you really see how marrying and blending all these various cask influences together has been done quite successfully in the inaugural bottling.
SGP: 471 - no score. |
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January 17, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today two little Glencadam ex-wine white OB vs red IB
Like a few others in Scotland, the Glencadam Distillery continues to offer us its encyclopaedia of the world’s wines, this time with a NAS version finished in white port casks. The Bordeaux merlot and Burgundy pinot noir versions gave us some amusement last year, but didn’t really win us over. Such bold red wines... That said, the most recent official 15-year-old releases have been rather magnificent. |
Portugal's famous Pasteis de
Nata (Lilie Bakery) |
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Glencadam ‘Reserva de Porto Branco - White Port Finish’ (46%, OB, +/-2023) 
Branco, in Portuguese, means blanco. I mean, white. Colour: light gold. Nose: it feels youthful, very fruity, with notes of ripe pears, tinned pineapple and melons, followed by yellow plums, before becoming slightly maltier. Was this predominantly Malvasia? A little straightforward but undeniably pleasant, with none of the dissonances you often encounter with red wine finishes. Mouth: initial impressions bring grapefruit skin and its distinctive bitterness, soon joined by juicier, sweeter citrus and those yellow plums, though not quite mirabelles. It stays fairly simple and not unpleasant, yet with an impression of premix or trans-blend – the Port influence is distinctly noticeable. Finish: medium in length and rather clean, with a bitter, spicier aftertaste. Comments: it’s quite enjoyable, though, as they say, I wouldn’t swap a bottle of their recent 15-year-old for two cases of this ex-Porto Branco, even with a plateful of pastéis de nata.
SGP:651 - 79 points. |
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Glencadam 2012/2022 (47.5%, Malts of Scotland, Innocent Dram, Amarone wine finish, cask #MoS 22041, 563 bottles) 
Hehe, it’s amusing that our friends have named this ex-Amarone finish an 'Innocent Dram'. Are they fending off accusations, or is this a clever preemptive excuse? (Only joking!) Amarone, as you may recall, is a luscious, full-bodied Italian red wine crafted from partially dried grapes. Colour: golden apricot. Nose: the heavy influence of red wine is unmistakable, including the presence of the cask itself, yet it’s neither off-putting nor inelegant. In short, not necessarily a Glencadam reserved for pairing with pineapple pizza or Paprika Pringles. Wafts of ferns and wild strawberries emerge. Mouth: a highly distinctive combination, with notes of peppered strawberries and blood orange mingling with wine, lending it a certain sangria-like quality – but, of course, a particularly fine sangria. Dark honey steps in to provide additional roundness, nudging it slightly closer to a more traditional malt. Finish: long, peppery, with lingering strawberry and orange jam. Comments: a fun and quirky malt that would likely work splendidly in mizuwari… perhaps even with a Hawaiian pizza.
SGP:641 - 82 points. |
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January 16, 2025 |
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Caperdonich on the Tasting Table
(a bit of Caroni too) |
Glen Grant's sister distillery, closed in 2002 by its new owners, Pernod Ricard, was later sold to the coppersmith and still manufacturer Forsyth’s, who demolished it a few years later. I’m not sure whether it could have continued production, but in any case, the stills were in good enough condition to be reinstalled at Belgian Owl and Falkirk Distillery. Let’s see what we have…
(Geograph) |
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Caperdonich 26 yo 1997/2024 (42.7%, Duncan Taylor, The Octave, cask #4137859, 47 bottles)
It will be interesting to see what form of sorcery has been employed here, especially considering that there were quite a few peated versions of Caperdonich produced that year, with the owners at the time, Seagram, having done the same at other distilleries such as Benriach. Colour: gold. Nose: apologies, no peat, but instead some very lovely ripe mangoes and pear cake, along with beeswax, orgeat syrup and a few amaretti. Also, a touch of school glue (the kind we could eat as children but which, unsurprisingly, didn’t stick much of anything). A very charming nose, not ‘boosted’ in the slightest by the octave. Mouth: gentle bitters, apple peelings, hops, bitter almonds, a touch of cooked banana and pear, followed by a mint-and-chamomile tisane that mingles with very fine tannins, hinting at walnuts from the sherry. Finish: not immensely long but very prettily fruity, with those almonds still at the helm and a murmuring sherry. Comments: a very elegant little bottling.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
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Caperdonich 27 yo 1997/2024 (52.7%, Liquid Treasures, 15th Anniversary eSpirits, bourbon barrel, 163 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: yellow and white fruits, apples, whitecurrants, plums… It feels very close to its neighbour Glen Grant, or so it seems. Melon and papaya emerge next, along with a touch of rose-flavoured Turkish delight, making it aromatic, fresh and cheerful. With water: barley and apple, we’re taking a stroll through the Scottish countryside. Mouth (neat): very good, fairly lively, focusing on orchard fruits reminiscent of some excellent Longmorns we tasted a few days ago. Mirabelle plums, apples, quinces, gooseberries, then a drizzle of honey and a splash of Earl Grey. Straightforward and impeccable. With water: green fruits, a hint of watermelon, light vanilla and plenty of fresh malt. Finish: medium length, featuring lovely fruity green tea and that honeyed aspect. Comments: in my humble opinion, this wasn’t an ultra-distinctive malt but, in the end, that’s precisely what gives it charm.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Caperdonich 25 yo 1994/2019 (58.2%, Alambic Classique, Rare & Old Selection, Caroni rum barrel finish, cask #19304, 205 bottles)
Naturally, with Caroni involved, things were bound to change… Colour: copper gold. Nose: this is an in-cask blend, of course, and the rum immediately takes the lead over our little Caperdonich, bringing the usual notes of fuel oil, tar, lime, brine and rubber/bakelite. Don’t get me wrong, it’s actually rather charming! All that is followed by citron liqueur and bergamots. With water: metal polish, copper and brass coins, new tyres. Mouth (neat): much the same feeling, but here the Trinidad rum almost delivers a sense of peat, alongside fairly hefty doses of salted liquorice and even a touch of seawater. With water: the rum returns. It’s almost more ‘Caroni’ than ‘Caroni light’. Finish: long, saline, slightly more kirsch-like. A hint of lovage or Maggi in the aftertaste. Comments: yet another cruel dilemma. One doesn’t quite like the idea but really enjoys the result. If we wanted to be clever, we might call it ‘Caperdonicht,’ but we’re not trying to be clever. The issue, I must insist, is that it’s very good—damn it.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
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Gone Grant 31 yo 1993/2024 (43.9%, Whisky Sponge, Decadent Drinks, 2nd fill barrel, 230 bottles)
The name ‘Gone Grant’ refers to the fact that Caperdonich was originally called ‘Glen Grant #2’, and between the two sister distilleries, it’s this one—the #2—that has since ‘gone’. Is that clear enough? Colour: light gold. Nose: I know one shouldn’t say this anymore, but I find this nose very feminine, refined, elegant, with wafts of classic perfume (the sort that adorned Marilyn Monroe) and high-end beauty creams. It grows increasingly floral, with pronounced honeysuckle, ylang-ylang, rose petals—utterly restrained—jasmine, and orange blossom… before drifting towards ripe bananas. Mouth: very delicate, indeed, leaning towards fruit salad with a touch of cinnamon and honey. A complex oak subtly underpins everything without ever imposing itself, which feels quite miraculous at 44%. Very soft liquorice. Finish: not very long but always fruity, lively, and slightly more exotic. Even at this stage, the wood never dominates. Comments: there’s something almost miraculous about this. It reminds me of the 1972s from Duncan Taylor—Caperdonichs as much as Glen Grants, for that matter.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
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January 15, 2025 |
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Four very young indie Glenglassaugh
Logically young, as the distillery was not operational between 1986 (we’ve tasted plenty from 1986) and 2008/2009. In any case, there have been some new official Glenglassaugh releases recently, which have been relatively impressive. That said, I must admit we’ve had little recent news from the brand, I hope they’re doing well! I also hope this isn’t the sort of question we’ll find ourselves asking more and more in the coming months, because for us, distillers are among the finest of humanity – on a par with the great jazz musicians, the great painters, the best MotoGP riders, the truly great entrepreneurs (not the fraudsters), or even politicians. Spot the odd one out. |
Pierre Corneille (1606-1684)
by Charles Le Brun |
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Glenglassaugh 8 yo 2015/2024 (46%, Cadenhead’s Original Collection, bourbon barrels) 
Colour: white wine. Nose: freshly cut grass and pilsner beer, followed by green apples and hints of fresh cement, with a touch of baker’s yeast. It’s very natural and less fruity than the recent younger OBs, if memory serves, though those apples are still present. Mouth: thoroughly malty and grassy, with macadamia nuts, even more apples, and a touch of frangipane. Then come a few zests and some oatcakes. It stays rather dry. Finish: of medium length, maltier and grassier, heading towards woody spices. Cinnamon and white pepper. Comments: a very good little Glenglassaugh, not a game changer but charming and natural.
SGP:441 - 84 points. |
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Glenglassaugh 9 yo 2014/2024 (60.2%, The Whisky Concerto, Rudder, first fill oloroso hogshead, 146 bottles)
Here we are in Hong Kong. Lovely label, by the way, somewhere between Miró and Calder. It would be great if everyone in whisky started putting more art on their labels (and not just designs that look like they’ve been spat out by some tired ChatGPT). Colour: gold. Nose: despite the sherry influence, this isn’t far off the Cadenhead style, just a tad rounder, with riper apples and a touch of varnish. But that could also be the high ABV, so let’s see. With water: stewed fruits emerge if you give it some time, bringing it closer to the official bottlings. Melon, peach, as well as banana and papaya. You just need a little patience (not our strong suit, but let’s move on). Mouth (neat): powerful, with a slightly acidic and rather muted fruitiness. A bit of soot and paraffin. With water: much better again, with lemons, green apples, rhubarb, fresh walnuts from the sherry, and a faint earthy touch. Finish: long, with notes of liquorice wood, barley, and mandarin. Comments: give it time or water—or perhaps water and time—or you might miss it entirely.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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Glenglassaugh 8 yo 2015/2024 (53.2%, Dràm Mor, 1st fill cognac finish, cask #67, 237 bottles, 2024)
Let’s see if the cognac smooths things out a bit. Colour: white wine. Nose: we love this slightly acetic side, reminiscent of natural white wine (or even orange wine), definitely fermentary, with notes of wood varnish and kougelhopf filled with little raisins. With water: no significant further development, but none was needed. Mouth (neat): maximum power, still with that orange wine profile, varnish, leather, and blond tobacco, but then the cognac speaks up, bringing peach and melon ice cream topped with sultanas. It all blends nicely. With water: the water integrates everything even better, enhancing the cognac’s roundness and the malt’s bitterness. Don’t tell me it’s the other way around! Finish: medium length, with touches of brown ale and orange bitterness. Comments: more than just a finishing. Impeccable composition—long live the Auld Alliance! (Let’s keep quiet, S.)
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Glenglassaugh 5 yo 2018/2023 (57.7%, Claxton’s for Precious Liquors, Singapore, 1st fill PX, 300 bottles)
Well, this is very young indeed, but as Corneille wrote, “To noble souls, worth does not wait upon age.” Kind of. Still, that’s theoretical, and Corneille was from the 17th century, wasn’t he? Colour: gold. Nose: an almost unbelievable amount of glue and wood varnish. We quite like that, but let’s see how things evolve. With water: it’s now the walnuts that take over, with a few basaltic and roasted touches. Mouth (neat): those varnishy notes are still there, but now joined by heaps of butterscotch and Nescafé. Has Nestlé bought Glenglassaugh from its newest owners? With water: excellent, provided you don’t drown it. Walnuts in all forms—cakes, liqueurs, tarts, and of course, natural. Finish: the same. The Nescafé returns in the aftertaste. Comments: if you love walnuts as much as we do, you’ll adore this youngster. If not, well…
SGP:461 - 85 points. |
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How to rinse your glass |
Let me remind you of our quick method, the ‘Whiskyfun Rinse-O-Matic’ (just joking), for rinsing your glasses between two spirits, even the richest and most aromatic ones: first, pour in some sparkling water, leave it for two minutes, pour out the sparkling water, then rinse again with still water. The sparkling water lifts off any residues clinging to the sides and bottom of your glass, while the still water then removes any remaining aromas and flavours. Finally, give them a good airing by shaking them out to remove any lingering odours that might still remain. |
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January 14, 2025 |
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WF's Quirky Little Duos,
today Arbikie vs Lochside |
Moving on with our new little series that don't make much sense. We were having a single little Lochside, a 1981, which we’d never tasted, and we were waiting on a Ben Nevis from the same year to sample them together, as the two distilleries were at one time owned by the same proprietor. However, that Ben Nevis never arrived. What’s more, we realised we’d never actually tasted a 1981 Ben Nevis, despite having tasted 360 different expressions of BN already, which made the chances of ever finding one even slimmer. So, we decided instead to enjoy the renowned Lochside alongside an Arbikie, which, of course, has absolutely nothing to do with it, except that both distilleries are (or were) located in or near Montrose on the east coast. Does that explanation work for you? I know, it’s a bit of a stretch. Anyway, I’ll add that, in theory, both whiskies should be extremely fruity. |
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Arbikie 5 yo ‘Cask Strength Edition 1’ (59.7%, OB, Distillers Series, Scottish rye, 966 bottles, 2024)
Single farm, field-to-bottle rye whisky (thus grain whisky) from 4 casks, from ‘one of the most sustainable distilleries in the world’ where they also make various gins and vodkas. Along the rye here they add wheat and malted Concerto barley. Colour: light gold. Nose: intensely fruity and floral at first, full of tangerines, lavender, and violets, then develops a ‘gin’ side or even hints of young marc from Burgundy for the uninitiated taster. We’re not at all on a rye that smells of rye bread, if you see what I mean. With water: it moves much closer to cereal, in a very pronounced way. A subtle whiff of quality cologne. Mouth (neat): I like it, it’s very excessive but the kind of imbalance one enjoys. Loads of black pepper, pink pepper, mandarin zest, coriander seeds, and Earl Grey tea, with a sharper rye profile than on the nose but also hints of buckwheat and an ultra-fruity character. With water: this gets almost perfect, more earthy, grainy, and with a wider variety of fruits and roots. Gentian, pear… Even a curious saline touch. After all, the North Sea isn’t far away. Finish: not overly long but very clean and chiselled. In short, more ‘rye’. Comments: quite the tasting adventure, where every drop of water counts. You could have fun with your pipette for a good two hours—I’d even have liked to test several different waters if I’d had the time. In short, it started rather low but reached…
SGP: 841 – 85 points. |
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Lochside 1981/2001 (61.0%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, #92.10)
I’ve never had the chance to taste this Lochside; only Angus has. I regret that no one talks about Lochside anymore, and that it’s entirely unavailable nowadays—it was a magnificently fruity malt, though sadly neglected by its last owners, the Spanish group D.Y.C., who had released a rather uninspiring official 10-year-old expression, probably tailored for southern markets where whisky was often consumed with plenty of water and ice. The distillery closed in 1992 after being acquired, along with DYC, by Allied, and was later demolished and even ravaged by a fire. In short, it met a fate rather similar to that of Littlemill. Colour: white wine. Nose: I’d almost forgotten how exotic Lochside’s fruitiness could be. Here, alongside a little musk, soft smoke, and blackcurrant buds, we find an entire container of passion fruits plus some pink grapefruits to complete the profile. I don’t think any grand fruity malt (old Bowmore, Laphroaig, Littlemill, Bushmills, Clynelish, etc.) ever showcased a profile even vaguely similar. With water: the pink grapefruits take the lead, joined by a hint of Petit and Grand Manseng wine. Mouth (neat): a bag of fruit sweets. Lemon, orange, mango, blackcurrant, redcurrant, pineapple, and, of course, passion fruit. It then transitions into a pure ‘maracuja sherbet’. With water: its only, very slight flaw is a touch of monotony. After adding water, you end up with something resembling a mix of passion fruit and blackcurrant juice—let’s say a 75/25 split. Finish: much the same. Comments: the Lochside tower was so beautiful! Remember, it was originally a brewery.
SGP: 751 – 91 points. |
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January 13, 2025 |
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Around the world for the first time in 2025 |
We’re keeping up with good traditions—starting in France, then heading to China, India, Australia, and London.
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Moon Harbour ‘Signature’ (41.2%, OB, France, +/-2024) 
A very young single malt from Bordeaux, naturally matured in Bordeaux casks. Everyone’s doing it worldwide, so it would be quite ironic if the Bordelais didn’t follow suit. One imagines the stills used might be either cognaçais or Stupfler. Colour: pale gold. Nose: heavily influenced by woody spices and sweet wine, Sauternes, pencil shavings, lychees, rose petals, apricots, pink peppercorns… It’s rather exuberant and far removed from classic malts, almost veering towards rye. Mouth: the woody spices and sweet wine immediately take centre stage. Cherries, blackcurrants, pepper, apricots, cinnamon, nutmeg, and barley sugar. Very fruity. Finish: fairly short, quite focused on the sweet wine, with a return of pencil shavings in the aftertaste. Comments: quite similar to other ‘wine inside’ malts produced in the south-west. Not exactly my style, but it’s very young yet well made.
SGP:730 - 75 points. |
We’re sticking with some signatures… |
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BM Signature 8 yo (42%, OB, France, +/-2024)
BM is Bruno Mangin, from the now sadly defunct Distillerie Rouget de Lisle in the French Jura. The still used was an Armagnac-style column, and the casks were mostly local wine casks (in France, it’s practically a tradition). Colour: gold. Nose: a rather pleasant fino-like edge, with acidity and fresh walnuts layered over damp earth and vineyard peaches. The walnuts dominate, but who doesn’t love walnuts? Mouth: still that slightly sour edge, those walnuts, dry wine (Madeira), plus a salty note that really makes it take off, and it keeps improving as it goes. Quite Jerez-like, if I may say so. Finish: medium length, with tart little apples and more walnuts. Impeccably dry. A drop of gentian in the aftertaste. Comments: I was a bit sceptical at first, I must admit, but it won me over in the end. There will be other BMs.
SGP:361 - 85 points. |
We’re changing continent… |
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Laizhou ‘Inaugural Edition’ (46%, OB, China, single malt, +/-2024)
Another young Chinese distillery, this time from Szechuan. There are more and more of them in China, and I can’t help but feel this could play out much like the car industry—everyone dreams of selling their whiskies to our Chinese friends, but now they’re starting to produce their own, and doing it well (we’re far from Red Labial or Chinas Regal here). In any case, what I’ve already tasted was rather a little impressive! Moreover, Laizhou appears to be employing some ‘wood technology’ that would make quite a few people in Tain (Scotland) green with envy. Colour: gold. Nose: wow. A highly unusual smoke, resinous, empyreumatic, wrapping around candied citrus fruits and a touch of top-notch yellow curry. A very pretty nose, compact and highly engaging. Mouth: creamy, still smoky (eucalyptus wood), saline, almost mustard-like, followed by roasted nuts of all kinds—pecans, pine nuts, hazelnuts, almonds… That little yellow curry makes a welcome return, which we rather love. Finish: long, beautifully dry, and ever so slightly charred. Comments: what impresses me is that they haven’t tried to ‘copy’ (OK, perhaps take inspiration from) Scottish malts. It’s genuinely different, with what seems to be excellent cask work. Real new world. This malt too, we’ll be seeing more of.
SGP:362 - 85 points. |
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Paul John 2016/2023 (58.5%, OB, India, peated, Madeira cask, cask #14363, 186 bottles)
Straight from India through our dear friend Krishna who is also a great oyster connoisseur. Colour: golden amber. Nose: pretty sulphury (no prob) and camphory at first but this aspect gradually gives way to overripe mangoes and fudge, with some rather unexpected background touches of game birds and tobacco. This creates a highly dramatic profile overall, let’s press on... With water: barely tamed, highly aromatic, with hints of rose petals and sugar-coated caraway. Truly beautiful and it really takes you on a journey. Mouth (neat): it’s almost like mango jam with spices and honey, to be honest. Oily texture. With water: an absolute indulgence. Honey, mango, apricot, rose, jasmine, cardamom... A touch of leather and tobacco, possibly from the Madeira. Finish: long, spicy, now drier. Notes of chocolate, coffee and pink peppercorns. Comments: what an adventure!
SGP:761 - 87 points. |
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Amrut 2016/2024 ‘Virgin Oak Refilled’ (60%, OB, India, Foundations, cask #915, 102 bottles)
Let’s address the question straight away—does ‘virgin oak refilled’ not sound like an oxymoron? Probably not... Well, we get the idea; it’s neither refill bourbon nor refill sherry, etc. In any case, we’re not entirely sure, but it’s amusing—much love for Amrut. Colour: amber. Baltic amber (indeed). Nose: ultra-compact and brilliant. Mango liqueur, parsley, bay leaf. Slightly crazy in its precision. With water: all kinds of mint, especially peppermint. Mouth (neat): medicinal mango! Someone had to invent that. With water: still mango, but also banana and a hint of truffle dust. Finish: long, with similar notes but eventually leaning towards citrus (oranges). Comments: this tasting note might be a bit all over the place, I’m sorry, but the whisky is perfect.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
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Kinglake 2018/2021 ‘In The Blood’ (49%, OB, Australia, 93 bottles)
Speaking of finishing, those crazy Australians matured this single malt in an ex-Buffalo Trace barrel before transferring it to a Red Gum barrel (no idea what that is—though I suppose one could look it up) seasoned for six months with Moondog stout and another six months with barley wine. Right then, let’s take a deep breath and dive in… Colour: reddish amber. Nose: it’s all about chocolate. Chocolate filled with a touch of raspberry liqueur, a combination that feels distinctly... Alsatian. Mouth: absolutely bonkers. Still plenty of chocolate, but also very young Pinot Noir and pink grapefruit. The flavours are so explosive that the 49% ABV feels more like 60. Really. Finish: very long, with more crazy nuances—raspberry making a return, dark beer, cloves, malt extract, cumin, black cherry, and so on. Mad stuff. Comments: it’s so explosively aromatic that if they bottled this at 60% ABV, it might just shatter your tasting glass without hesitation. Mad, I love it.
SGP:771 - 87 points. |
One last stop, that's enough of the colonies... (S., be careful—as a French person, you might not grasp all the nuances these words entail) ... |
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Bimber ‘Witkievicz the Artist’ (58.7%, OB, England, Shoulders of Giants, for Poland, oloroso, cask #460, 285 bottles, 2024)
I note that, for now, there hasn’t been a bottling in this series dedicated to Elon M. Colour: gold. Nose: a combination of ripe bananas and roasted nuts, followed by slightly burnt cake. Light hints of concrete dust in the background. With water: oh, very lovely—lighter, almost floral. Blood oranges and wisteria. Mouth (neat): this is clearly very well done—raisins, strawberry liqueur, pink peppercorns, chocolate cake, and a drop (just one) of banana liqueur. With water: gentle spices emerge, adding a stronger impression of dark chocolate. Finish: fairly long, chocolatey. Notes of dark tobacco. Comments: we tend to favour ex-bourbon, but I must admit this ex-oloroso has been crafted with great attention to detail and, above all, freshness. Freshness matters. Na zdrowie.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
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January 12, 2025 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
An avalanche of white rums
to bring the sunshine in |
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| Distillerie Bologne, Basse Terre, La Guaddeloupe (Rhum Bologne) |
We rarely get the chance to taste white rums, and to be honest, they’re not entirely at home on Whiskyfun (and don’t get me started on the number of ‘joven’ tequilas and mezcals we still have to try). But for me, white rum, much like a spritz, is also a symbol of summer. So, in the northern hemisphere, January seems like the perfect time to sample a little wheelbarrow-load of them. Our goal: around fifteen or twenty, especially as it’s brilliant to be able to explore the DNA of these distillates and compare them more effectively, something you cannot really do with malt whisky. Mind you, we won’t be tasting all of these in one go, but everything will be published below in one batch. And I should add that we don’t feel confident enough to assign scores with pinpoint accuracy, down to a single point. Good luck to us, and good luck to you… |
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Black Stripe (40%, OB, Canada, +/-2020) 
The bottle is quite intimidating, though it’s worth noting this is blended by Forty Creek. One can’t have it all, can they? Colour: white. Nose: hello? Well, there’s a touch of cane juice, hints of bamboo shoots, a drizzle of sugar syrup, and a mere drop of pineapple liqueur. Hardly the kind of profile one might recall the next morning. Mouth: it’s fine, let’s move on swiftly. A bit of earthy cane, a faint suggestion of artichoke, and sweetness without actual sugary weight, if you follow. Finish: virtually non-existent. A faint note of lime. Comments: not dreadful, but rather weak for a malt enthusiast’s palate.
SGP:330 – 60 to 69 points. |
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La Favorite ‘Cœur de Canne’ (50%, OB, La Martinique, agricole, +/-2023)
This ‘Cœur de Canne’ (Heart of Cane) is also available at other strengths, such as 55%. Colour: white. Nose: ah yes, fermented cane, olives, capers, lime, parsley, Thai basil, beet syrup (and cane syrup, naturally). Mouth: a touch sweet but otherwise very good, vibrant, and perfectly enjoyable even without water or ice, with a lovely earthy character. Fresh carrots, lychee, hints of roses. Finish: long, clean, and fragrant. Comments: quite gentle for an agricole, yet still very charming.
SGP:441 – 80 to 85 points. |
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Taragawa (40%, OB, Japan, +/-2023)
Made by sake makers in Okinawa, using shochu stills (steel). Colour: white. Nose: ultra-soft, almost like rose water blended with lychee syrup. Mouth: moves closer to the world of rum. Lovely fermentary notes, with rice and chocolate, roses, violets, and papayas. Finish: good length, with a pleasant acidic structure beyond the floral and lychee elements. Pink grapefruit. Comments: interesting and unusual, I rather like it.
SGP:730 – 75 to 80 points. |
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Aguardiente de Cana (46.9%, OB, El Destilado, Mexico, +/-2020)
This is from Oaxaca, though it’s not mezcal. Colour: white. Nose: well, it may not be mezcal, but it certainly smells like it, with just the right mix of olives and charcoal. Small pickled lemons, pickled onions… Mouth: frankly, it tastes like mezcal. It’s excellent, still packed with olives and smoked lemons, along with earthy tones and a hint of petrol. Crazy stuff. Finish: long, smoky, earthy. Comments: I’m not sure they still produce this, at least that’s what I gather from the TWE website. The world’s gone mad if we lose top-quality spirits like this while continuing to churn out oceans of ghastly, sugar-laden gut-rot. Right, let’s take a deep breath...
SGP:372 – 85 to 90 points. |
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Duppy Share White (40%, OB, Jamaica, +/-2024)
The bottle is very pretty. We had tried an aged version before, which wasn’t bad at all. Mind you, this is Jamaican! Colour: white. Nose: hey, this is lovely! Super-ripe mirabelles, raspberry syrup, blackcurrant juice, and prickly pear. No Jamaican funk at this stage, but who cares. Mouth: oh yes, hints of varnish, fermented fruits, and olive oil, followed by touches of liquorice and even tar. Finish: not very long, but the flambéed banana note is superb. Comments: this deserves more than 40% ABV; it would be brilliant at 50%.
SGP:561 – 80 to 85 points. |
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Neisson ‘Clos Godinot’ (52.5%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2023)
One of, if not the very first parcellaire white rum from Neisson. Colour: white. Nose: geranium and jasmine, white peaches, longans. With water: fresh concrete, engine oil, tropical greenhouse. Mouth (neat): slightly hot, earthy, and loaded with fermented fruits. It needs water. With water: a lovely saline touch, hints of tarragon and sage, with a fermentary bitterness. Finish: long, this time with extremely, extremely ripe bananas. Comments: plenty of action in this Neisson blanc.
SGP:462 – 80 to 85 points. |
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Renegade ‘All-Island Cuvée Aura’ (46%, OB, Grenada, 2024)
So much emotion here, as the distillery has closed. People definitely prefer sugary rubbish and that’s why major alcohol companies prefer to invest in brands of fake rum with made-up stories while being loaded with additives. As Coluche used to say, "To calculate the IQ of a crowd, you take the IQ of the dumbest person and divide it by the number of members."Alright, let’s take it easy, after all, Vox Populi, Vox Dei. Colour: white. Nose: a stunning distillate, saline, tarry, oily, and elegant. Tiny pink olives and a beautiful manzanilla en rama. Mouth: exceptionally saline and oily, followed by ripe mangoes and black cherry juice. Magnificent. Finish: long, with more citrus and spice. A superb saline aftertaste with olives. Comments: what a distillate! As a white rum, this is easily in the world’s top ten or even five, in my opinion. After the lovely Neisson, this confirms it.
SGP:462 – 90 points. |
Update: there are some truly incredible coincidences — we had just finished wrapping up and editing this session when the news of a probable refinanced restart of Renegade reached us!!! |
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Bielle Blanc (59%, OB, Marie-Galante, agricole, +/-2023)
Colour: white. Nose: closed and simple at 59%, which is not really ‘Bielle’. Sugar syrup (eh?). With water: no development, which is very surprising. Mouth (neat): varnish and cane, but again, it’s too hot. This must be made for ti-punches. With water: better, but a bit messy and poorly defined. It struggles after the Renegade. Finish: same. Comments: I don’t quite understand this. Bielle, in theory, is top five as well—I’m sure of it. Must be me, I might have done something wrong, I totally loved this one five years ago. I'll try again with another batch.
SGP:441 - 75 to 80 points. |
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Domaine de Bellevue ‘Rhum Blanc Bio’ (59%, OB, Marie-Galante, agricole, +/-2023)
This is a single-parcel rum from Marie-Galante, though it carries the Guadeloupe GI, as administratively, Marie-Galante is part of Guadeloupe. We’ve already tasted some great Bellevues. According to the owners, ‘the Bellevue distillery is the only eco-positive distillery in the world’, though I’ve seen ‘carbon-positive’ rums before. To be verified… In any case, this rum comes from the new Bellevue distillery, built in 2001 right next to the old one. They own 62ha of sugarcane. Colour: white. Nose: fairly gentle at first, slightly earthy with notes of ripe pear, hearts of palm perhaps, and fresh blackcurrants… In any case, it’s very mild so far. With water: little development, a touch of paraffin. Very discreet, which is surprising. Mouth (neat): very powerful, very grassy, quite bitter, with bagasse and hay. Water is really necessary here. With water: again, it’s discreet, but rather elegant, with green berries. It then gains complexity with notes of olives and a touch of seawater bringing a light ‘funk’. Much more to my taste now. Finish: of medium length, quite grassy and salty. The little olives remain, as does a hint of vanilla. Comments: it needed quite a bit of water and some patience, but it worked out very well in the end, phew.
SGP:461 - 80 to 85 points. |
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Longueteau ‘Souvenir L’Intemporel’ (62%, OB, Guadeloupe, agricole, 2024)
A blend of approximately one-third blue cane and two-thirds red cane here. Like many fine white rums, it is matured for several months in vats before bottling. I’m very fond of the simpler Longueteau blanc at 50% ABV (WF 88). Colour: white. Nose: a distinctive nose, starting with vegetables and fish (sardines in olive oil), seaweed, and beach sand… It almost feels like standing before a ‘low marque’ Jamaican. Naturally, we love this, even at 62%. With water: hints of carbon, exhaust fumes… (in rum, that’s appealing; in real life, not so much) followed by orange blossom. Mouth (neat): brilliant, with lime, green pepper, olives, and seawater. This is bold! With water: the cane reigns supreme, elevated by the same very saline flavours. Finish: long, precise, even refreshing. Comments: I’m not sure all of this is ‘timeless’, but it certainly evokes the style of a great white mezcal, for instance.
SGP:462 - 85 to 90 points. |
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Amrut 2022 (62.8%, Habitation Velier, India, pure sugarcane juice, 2023)
Made from cane harvested just near the distillery and distilled in the pot stills used for Amrut’s famed malt whiskies. Colour: white. Nose: delightful! More tarmac than in all the others, with fresh rubber, zucchini, dried mushrooms, seawater, and whelks… Very surprising. With water: a touch fresher, more maritime, and even a bit chalky. Do they have all these aromas ‘near the distillery’? Mouth (neat): oh yes! Gorgeous ‘funky’ mangos alongside bags upon bags of Williams pears, which is entirely unexpected. With water: brilliant—cakey, honeyed, and salty. Finish: long and tight, with a hint of varnish. The pears remain in the aftertaste, along with a return of tar. Comments: a delightful surprise.
SGP:552 - 85 to 90 points. |
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Montebello 2019/2022 ‘Canne Rouge’ (52%, Barikenn, Guadeloupe, 551 bottles)
Colour: white. Nose: soft and fruity, with pears and plums, papayas and bananas, plus soft honey and fresh cane juice with a faint chalky touch. With water: cement, plaster, limestone, and rainwater. Mouth (neat): earthy, with fermented fruits and saline notes… With water: it’s the earthy side that truly stands out. Rather dry in profile, which is exactly what we like. A drop of mustard. Finish: long, mineral, and rich. Shares characteristics with a fine fino sherry from Jerez. Green pears. Comments: this little Montebello is a true champion swimmer.
SGP:562 - 85 to 90 points. |
Wait, we need to reassure ourselves about the Bielle blancs... (We’re already totally convinced by the aged ones, I insist). |
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Bielle 2023 (58%, Swell de Spirits, Marie-Galante, On Tour Series, for Limoges Spirits Festival 2024, 250 bottles)
We’ve got some lovely friends in Limoges. Colour: white. Nose: coconut, mercurochrome, and peach syrup. I’m sure water will work wonders. With water: the pears take control once again. Delicate touches of first rain, though it remains discreet. Mouth (neat): rich and oily, with lemon, pear, cane juice, and a hint of brine. With water: cane juice, agave juice, and pear juice—very gentle. Finish: of medium length, soft, and almost folded onto apples. Comments: these fresh Bielles strike me as surprisingly gentle, but this one is still vastly superior to the official ‘59’.
SGP:551 - 80 to 85 points. |
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Bologne ‘La Batterie’ (58.6%, OB, Guadeloupe, agricole, canne noire, 3,000 bottles, Edition 2020)
Black cane is said to be a very aromatic variety, albeit low-yielding. This is a single-plot cuvée from the parcel ‘La Batterie’, as the name suggests. Unfortunately, we haven’t tasted much Rhum Bologne so far. Colour: white. Nose: plenty of freshness but also sweetness, with orange blossom beyond fresh cane, followed by fennel and dill, clementine peel, Sichuan pepper, and a faintly brioche-like note. Very pretty and elegant, though not exactly ‘gentle’. With water: a touch of seawater and a small olive complete the profile. Mouth (neat): soft but beautifully lemony, with zest, pink pepper, and fennel. It’s a bit hot at 58.6%, though nothing out of the ordinary. With water: delicate earthy touches, jasmine tea, citrus peels, saline notes, liquorice, and pepper. Finish: really long, with citrus, pepper, and a tiny pinch of wasabi. A hint of coconut lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: at no point did I feel the need to add ice cubes—well done, Guadeloupe.
SGP:551 - 85 to 90 points. |
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Jamaican Blended Rum (58%, Swell de Spirits, high ester, On Tour Series, for Rhum Fest Paris 2024 10 years, 200 bottles)
Colour: white. Nose: of course. Mouth: naturally. Finish: obviously. Comments: pure Jamaica, with tar, olives, antiseptic, paint, petrol, seawater, acetone, and all sorts of diverse solvents, plus that little masochistic touch that Jamaican rums (apart from Appleton) always compel us to embrace. And we do, almost with shame. A high-definition white rum, exceptional.
SGP:463 - 90 points. |
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Unaged Heritage Blend (56%, Tamosi, Jamaican and Guyana, +/-2024)
From what I understand, this is Hampden + Port Mourant + Uitvlugt. As blends go, you could do much worse. Colour: white. Nose: an acetic side, very charming, with touches of ammonia and parmesan, followed by olive brine, seawater, and fermented fruits (bananas, pineapples). With water: carbon paper and linoleum. Mouth (neat): quite frankly, the Jamaican dominates. Tar, olives, pickled items, carbon, and all that. With water: adding a fair amount of water proves interesting, as it brings out the blend’s components beyond Hampden’s dominance. Sardines in olive oil, salted anchovies, black olives, and fermented cassava (sour cassava starch) … Finish: similar, very briny. Comments: all in all, this is a Navy Blend for highly superior British officers.
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
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Ghana ‘Unaged’ (65%, FRC, 320 bottles, 2024)
We’ve forgotten the name of this distillery in Ghana, but we know, having tasted it once before (whoof), that it’s very good. What a useless blogger (a rare moment of lucidity, S.). Colour: white. Nose: it’s a bit strong (no kidding Erwin), but there are lovely notes of apples and bananas. With water: the solvents and acetone come through—like a medical cabinet. Mouth (neat): varnish, petrol, coconut milk, and apple eau-de-vie, along with massive doses of ethanol. With water: ah yes, here come the olives, tar, lemon, pine needles, iodine tincture, and oysters… Finish: long, very saline, and extremely coastal. Seaweed and seawater. Comments: Ghana is by the sea, isn’t it? Not sure if this distillery is in Accra, but that would make sense. In any case, well done, FRC!
SGP:562 - 85 to 90 points. |
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White Pearls ‘Rhum Blanc’ (48%, Vagabond Spirit, Réunion, 2024)
Rum from Savanna, it seems, with a passage in amphora. We’ve always been supportive of ageing in amphora/concrete/glass/stoneware, but it appears that authorities generally prefer oak or other wood, which makes one suspect that these authorities are likely influenced by the agroforestry industry. Just joking. Colour: white. Nose: easy, light, and sweet, with honeysuckle, apple, mild lemon, plums, and fresh cane juice… This isn’t a grand aromatic profile but it’s really nice. Mouth: good, easy, with notes of fermented apples, young calvados, grappa, umeshu, and pear cider… Finish: medium length, slightly acidic, with a curiously light but subtle body. It’s close to the cane. Comments: fine and delicate.
SGP:541 - 80 to 85 points. |
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Los Convidados 2023 ‘Satvrnal’ (64%, Swell de Spirits, Mexico, 1,000 bottles)
Well, we don’t really know what this is, so let’s see. In any case, the folks at Swell de Spirits are clearly having fun, and rightly so, if you ask me. Colour: white. Nose: it seems a bit lethal, but we enjoy these whiffs of gunpowder, black olives, smoked bacon, fresh IKEA plywood, and moped exhaust fumes… (I’m thinking of the Gitane Testi Grand Prix 50cc from 1975). With water: by Zeus, we’re in Jamaica. Mouth (neat): absolutely explosive. Salmiak and heather maceration, universal glue, and concentrated lemon juice with bird’s eye chili. To be honest, it stings your tongue quite a bit. With water: crazy, admirable, acetic, spicy, salty, and… fairly floral. There’s mullein syrup, for instance. Finish: very long, mineral, and salty, with lupins in brine. Comments: what an adventure for a white rum. I love it, and so should you, if I may say so.
SGP:572 - 90 points. |
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South Pacific Distillery 2017/2018 (83%, L’Esprit, Fiji, third edition, 258 bottles)
It seems this is what Fiji’s all-powerful rugby team makes their opponents drink before matches. Have you seen the ABV? Shall we survive? And who will take care of Whiskyfun’s mousers if something happens? Colour: white. Nose: it’s petrol mixed with medicinal alcohol. I feel we should have notified our insurer before attempting this ‘thing’. The worst part is, it’s actually lovely—as long as you keep your glass at least two metres from your nose and ensure no open flames are nearby. Olives, anchovies, and sharp green apples. With water: smoked bacon and fish, plus small thick-skinned lemons with ultra-acidic juice. Or finger limes. Mouth (neat): it obliterates your entire airway, but you can tell it’s good. Hyper-concentrated olives and solvents. With water: absolutely incredible. A massive combination of pepper, tar, glue, and lemon so intense even the C.I.A. would lodge a complaint. Finish: forget it—you can’t fight this, even armed with two litres of Vittel (or Gleneagles, Highland Spring, Miller Light etc.). Comments: did we dream this? Did a relatively discreet French independent bottler actually release a ‘very high ester’ rum at 83% ABV, the equivalent of John Bonham in Achilles Last Stand?
SGP:384 - 90 points. |
Well, I think this idea of sampling a good number of ‘whites’ has run its course. It’s interesting to note, at least from my humble perspective as a mere enthusiast, that the hierarchy of ‘aged’ rums doesn’t necessarily align when it comes to the whites from the same distilleries or brands. We’re planning another tasting of completely crazy white rums around July 2028, if that suits you (we’ve still got quite a few waiting). Oh and great news regarding Renegade! |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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January 11, 2025 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Double Ledaig
Two old Ledaig, to stave off wintery January here in Scotland. |
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Ledaig 20 yo (43%, OB, late 1990s)
I have vivid and fond memories of how they used to be extremely fond of this bottling in the old Loch Fyne Whiskies shop, and how their great salesman, Andy, used to sell it to anyone and everyone with great verve and enthusiasm. Very much the age of innocence! Now, as I recall, some batches were distinctly better than others... Colour: pale straw. Nose: ah yes, a peaty one! Coal smoke, soft tarry notes, wet rocks, crisp peat smoke, mineral salts and fresh seafood. Superbly fresh and hyper clean, almost certainly dominated by pre-1974 Ledaig! Mouth: a little less impressive, coal smoke again, but it's overall a little flatter and with a slightly more papery feel to the smokiness. Damp bonfires, wet bark, salty porridge, fire embers and aspirin. A peated malt that feels like it has been blended with some unpeated in a funny way - not impossible when it comes to funny old bottlings from Tobermory distillery! Still, plenty nice seashore vibes and soft peaty notes. Finish: surprisingly long and back on tarry and salty combinations, some kinds of smoked porridge in the aftertaste. Comments: Serge wasn't a fan of this one on more than one occasion in Whiskyfun's distant past. I suspect this is probably one of the better batches, although it's technically a little uncertain on the palate. I find it very hard to disentangle this bottling from my memories of Inverary. Incidentally, if you are passing, I can strongly recommend the brilliant George Hotel, their food is top notch and the whisky bar and its lovely staff even better!
SGP: 455 - 84 points. |
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Ledaig 32 yo 1972/2005 (48.9%, Alambic Classique, cask #8721, oloroso sherry butt, 396 bottles) 
Speaking of the age of innocence... Colour: deep gold. Nose: peaty wellies wading through dense sherry! That's the vibe anyway. Quite a thick and stodgy feeling of sherry, which is not bad thing, with peat feeling rather soft and earthy behind that. There's also softer medicinal characteristics such as cough syrup, then heather honey, some very old Drambuie and gentle peppery notes. I'd add some Serrano ham, tarred rope and camphor into the bargain too. Mouth: camphor, mixed with herbal tonic wines and quite a few other herbal qualities, herbal teas, extracts, tinctures, ointments etc. Also bitter orange marmalade, hessian cloth, beef stock, old leather, bone marrow and iodine. A big tussle between the sherry and the peat, but in an entertaining way that involves pleasing integration. Has an elegant but balanced bitterness about it too, with bay leaf, green walnut and rancio aspects. Finish: long and much more on saltiness, nutty notes, cupboard spices, walnut wine, soy sauce, feelings of bakelite and plasticine and some salted liquorice and chewing tobacco. Comments: decidedly old style, you so rarely find whiskies that have this kind of character these days. Now, I don't think it's quite 90 point material purely due to these rather extreme characteristics, but it’s a bit of a technicality. I love this big, rugged, earthy old Ledaig.
SGP: 465 - 89 points. |
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