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September 22, 2023 |
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Noch More Mannochmore
I've heard that we're still leading the challenge for the most stupid title for a blog post ever, coupled with the award for the most vulgar alliteration of the century. It's good to have goals in life, but we're not yet venturing onto TikTok, let's not exaggerate. So, Mannochmore…
(Anne Burgess, georgaph)
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Mannochmore 14 yo 2008/2023 (52%, Cadenhead's Natural Strength, Oloroso cask matured, 300 bottles) 
Colour: full gold. Nose: interesting varnish and acetone at first, then the expected old walnuts, with some earthy tones, even mushrooms and moss, as well as whiffs of coal smoke. Apple peel as well. Nice nose. With water: more spicy oak coming through, pencil shavings, a drop of umami sauce, something glutamatey (right)… Mouth (neat): touches of varnish once more, roasted chestnuts, something a tad prickly (vinegar de Jerez?) and some sour wines, orange wines perhaps? There's rather a lot of black pepper too, the usual bitter oranges and green walnuts… With water: some peppered caramel, perhaps, touch of dry molasses… Finish: medium, with these cedar shavings again. Clove. Comments: it's pretty dry and rather oaky, but I don't think anyone's still producing oloroso 'dulce', or cream oloroso, or whatever.
SGP:361 - 80 points. |
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Mannochmore 13 yo 2010/2023 (54.8%, Dram Mor, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #3088) 
Colour: straw. Nose: an all-natural one this time, on sweet barley, garden fruits, apples, plums, with also wine gums, pear drops and a little white bread. Baguette, bien sûr. With water: comté cheese, even good gouda, baker's yeast, touch of varnish, a tiny acetic touch, even a little ammonia, which works in this context… In short, all is fine. Mouth (neat): I enjoy this feeling of wine gums, good newmake, pear spirit, plums… In this very case you'd even find strawberries here and there. With water: a tad rounder, with also some banana skin. Finish: medium, joyful, slightly sweet and sour, with drops of some very lemony sauvignon blanc. Comments: very lovely all-natural malt, close to the ingredients. You could almost add more water to produce… white (barley) wine. Kind of.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
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Mannochmore 13 yo 2008/2022 (59%, Chorlton Whisky, bourbon barrel, 162 bottles)
Always these awesome medieval labels. We know a few bottlers who occasionally display medieval behaviour, but that is certainly not the case with Chorlton. Colour: white wine. Nose: sameish, perhaps with a little more oils, sunflower, grape pips… The fruitiness is a little 'rounder' too, a little more towards peaches, clementines, prickly pears… With water: (viscimetry gone wild)… Lemon and rhubarb tarte with a lot of custard and meringue. Mouth (neat): a little strong, on the other hand who could be against lemon + aniseed + fennel + peaches? With water: absolutely excellent, tight, lemony, refreshing. And consequently, pretty dangerous as it 'goes down a little too well'. Finish: long, fresh, with some egg cream, more lemon tarte, touch of coriander and dill. Impeccable. Comments: indeed, this refreshing side can be a little dangerous, they should add a warning on a back label. Of course not.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
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September 21, 2023 |
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Two little Lowlands because
summer is not gone |
There are more of them these days, especially new ones, but we'll keep this shortish session, well, short, with just an indie Auchentoshan and a secret Lowlander by some of the greater folks in London. Secret Lowlanders are a new thing, are they not? |
(Diageo) |
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A Lowland Distillery 15 yo 2007/2023 (51.9%, The Single Malts of Scotland, for Kirsch Import, barrel, cask #77, 168 bottles)
The problem with the Internet is that you always end up knowing which is what, often without even searching for the info. You're looking for the exact number of bottles and bam, the information subtly arrives: this should be Glenkinchie. If that's the case, I've noticed that I've only ever tasted a dozen independent Glenkinchies, all from old vintages. Well, we haven't tasted thousands of official Glenkinchies either...
Colour: white wine. Nose: you do find small whiffs of rose petals at first, before it would dive into a large bucket of pancake dough. Also whiffs of nail polish and very light acetone, which I always enjoy, then that family pack of gummy bears I keep mentioning (is it serious, doctor?) I also keep mentioning Californian IPA, which we'll find in there too. With water: as often, geared towards more dough and fresh breads. Which we strictly always enjoy. Mouth (neat): all doughy sweetness, driven by lemons. Let's say a large lemon tart topped with excessive amounts of meringue and some pepper from the oak. With water: citrusy herbs and plants coming through, lemongrass and grated lime zest, touches of yuzu gin. I know. Finish: rather long, refreshing, lemony. That yuzu gin plus some ginger tonic. Comments: we're still in the summer vibe, are we not. Excellent drop.
SGP:661 - 86 points. |
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Auchentoshan 32 yo 1991/2023 (48.7%, Halcyon Spirits, cask #1896, 140 bottles) 
Only the second bottling by Halcyon Spirit, their first one having been an excellent rather old-school Macallan. Classic names so far… Colour: golden. Nose: lovely coconut water and woodruff at first, that's possibly the old cask, then custard tart, ripe banana, dandelions and gorse, mirabelles, preserved peaches… Then a little fresh moist marzipan, crushed almonds, even faint touches of sesame oil… This is pretty perfect, ultra-classic old yet fresh Auchentoshan, without any excessive cask or wine impact, which is always the best way in our book. Ideas of mangos coming out after ten minutes. Mouth: perfect lemony creaminess, in the style of older Auchentoshans, with a tannicity that some might find a bit excessive, but that's not the case at all for me, as we also find some small spices and herbs to great effect. Touches of coconut as well, and even tiny hints of rum. Lemon peel keeps it tight. Finish: long, tight indeed, with some green peppercorns. More zests and bitter almonds in the aftertaste, and williams pears in the after-aftertaste, which I find very cool. Comments: I've seen that Auchentoshan Distillery just celebrated their 200th anniversary. Well, this 1991 was a perfect celebratory dram, so triple happy birthday!
SGP:571 - 88 points. |
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Glenkinchie's big still |
| According to the owners Diageo, Glenkinchie has the largest wash still in Scotland, with a capacity of 31,000 liters. However, it's not certain that they fill it to its full capacity, as capacities and actual working 'payloads' in volume (charge) are not, I think, necessarily exactly the same thing, generally speaking. |
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September 20, 2023 |
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Birthday Brora and neighbouring apéritif |
(Do great distillates ever die?) |
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In a warehouse at Brora in 2013 (WF Archive)
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Well, it's my birthday today. Would I ever have imagined reaching the age of thirty-seven? (yeah right, but of course...) In any case, Diageo has graced us this summer by introducing a one-of-one 50-year-old Brora 1972, which for me is the equivalent of Giant Steps or Kind of Blue. At WF, we almost never do solo tastings, I mean of a single whisky, but I've chosen to save the other not-yet-tasted Broras we have in the queue for another, more significant session that we will do here in a few weeks. Including the new Prima & Ultima, 'of course'. For now, I'll settle for tasting this brand new creature that has already caused a little bit of buzz here and there. It is a unique magnum (plus samples for some very, very kind and lucky friends) that will be auctioned off on October 5th in Edinburgh in partnership with Sotheby's, as part of the operation 'The Distillers One of One' which will 'raise vital funds to help disadvantaged young people in Scotland' of which, naturally, neither the top management nor the shareholders of Diageo are a part (now that's clever, S.). This unique magnum is expected to fetch between £200,000 and £400,000, which means that this tasting will probably be the most expensive one we'll have done this year, perhaps along with the Macallan 50 yo 1928 that we tasted a few months ago. |
To be honest, I initially found the packaging, if we can call it that, a bit strange but it's my fault, foolishly I hadn't made the connection between the presentation and the name, 'Iris.' But of course, it represents the eye of a Highland wildcat, the emblem of the distillery! As soon as you know that it all becomes more beautiful... Besides, 1972 is, as we all know, the iconic vintage for Brora (and Clynelish for that matter). I've been lucky enough to taste several old 1972s from casks not yet bottled, and I can tell you that there are wonders, since this juice, although already exceptional around 20 years old as we have seen with the Rare Malts, seems to have been built for the long haul. And it can resist with great flair any cask that might try to dominate it over the years and decades. In any case, the latest 1972, the one from the famous Triptych launched to celebrate the reopening of Brora Distillery just two years ago, was as fresh as a young wild Scottish salmon (WF 96). |
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That said, old habits die hard, so we're still going to have one or two small apéritif, just to uphold the traditions of Whiskyfun. But that won't be Brora… |
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Clynelish 14 yo 'Flora & Fauna" (43%, OB, black cap, +/-1998) 
Bizarrely, we've formally tried the C/S versions but never this early 14 that was soon to be replaced with the 'regular' official 14 yo at 46% vol., around 2003 if my memory serves me well. Now I've casually tried it a few times, should I add of course, and never really thought it was part of the (numerous) grand Clynelishes. In other words, a kind of under-Rare-Malts, as I remember it. Colour: light gold. Nose: there is this rather more mineral waxiness that would scream 1980s distillate, quite some chalk, crushed slate, even bandages and then rather a lot of hay, farmyard, a little lime juice, grist… Well you could say Campbeltown just as well this far. Mouth: these makes love aging in glass, apparently. The waxes are lovely, the lemons too, these green apples as well… It's got quite some soot and paraffin, and to be honest, it does not feel too light at 43%, even echoing some of the 'Old' Clynelish 12 at 40%. Quite some salt coming through too, samphire, wakame, and perhaps a few drops of crab bisque (and why not?) that remind us of Seinfeld's Soup Nazi. Great episode, that one. Finish: of good length, with a lovely mineral fatness and a perfect salinity. Comments: well, either it was one of the grandest batches, or indeed, some perfect OBE has been at play. I'm glad I've been waiting for more than 20 years before trying this old bottle that I was having in the house stash. I fondly remember the F&F 15 yo 1982, could be that this regular F&F was distilled in 1982 too.
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
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Clynelish 16 yo 'Four Corners of Scotland' (49.3%, OB, American oak hogsheads, 3,000 bottles, 2021)
Philosophical topic of the day, almost existential: what will be the long-term impact of Brora's reopening on Clynelish and its famous style? Open for discussion, please send your answers on a postcard. Colour: white wine. Nose: it is a much fruitier and lighter style of Clynelish, much more on plums, gooseberries, green bananas, with this typical fruitiness that comes with expressive American oak. Williams pears, acacia honey, elderflower, honeysuckle… All this with a very moderate waxiness. A tiny candle, perhaps. One of those cleaner un-gungey batches? Mouth: no wait, its more potent on the palate, rather more 'Clynelish', even if it's not a soot-and-wax bomb at all. More grasses, fruit peel, also some obvious oak/sawdust, with a slightly gritty background, while fruit eaux-de-vie would then come out, specially mirabelle and kirschwasser. No, not a wax king. Finish: medium, on similar notes. Sweet fruity oak, a little sourness in the aftertaste. Comments: very good, but I think I should have had this one before the old 14 F&F.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Brora 50 yo 1972/2023 'Iris' (41.8%, OB, for The Distillers One of One Charity Auction, 1 Magnum)
Not even afraid of the rather light alcohol content! Not sure whether this is from a single cask… Colour: gold. Nose: Trane and Miles, indeed. Can a whisky be creative in itself? Self-generate? Even improvise? Gain independence, distancing itself from all things vulgarly human? In any case, this juice is sumptuous; one could almost believe that aliens came to perform some magic unknown to humanity, in the warehouse, between 1972 and 2023.While everyone in that part of Sutherland was sleeping… Having said that, not sure this baby sent its whole life at the Distillery. Good, as far as descriptors go, you'd be forgiven for thinking this is a 50-year-old Ardbeg from 1972; it's incredible how much the two styles converge after so many years. I feel I should apologise to Diageo after saying that, but then again, they own a large slice of Ardbeg's ownership, so it's all kind of in the family. Band-aid, old balms and embrocations, tar extracts, castor oil, Bakelite, old ointments, floated wood, cigar ashes… and peat! They say that the peaty side of a whisky slowly fades with aging, well I'm happy to report that this is not really the case here. The tarry aspect is sublime. Mouth: It starts with an old liqueur vibe, old Tarragone Chartreuse, as well as some walnuts and small berries like rowan or serviceberry... Then this almost greasy and certainly tarry peat comes in to take over, never to let go again. There are also very charming notes of ancient apple that emerge, somewhat like those of an old cider found in a forgotten cellar. Old balms are never far away, nor are these bits of tyres, and even less so old shoe polishes. I'm also reminded of that famous Elixir of the Swede that our grandmothers used to consume a lot of, with its 60 plants and whacky substances. At this proof, this old Brora is certainly not of extreme strength, but it has retained more than enough vitality to never become 'a bit frustrating.' Never! Finish: surprisingly long and displaying that slight rustic, somewhat farm-like quality that was already present in the much younger 1972s. Now without that, it wouldn't be Brora 1972! Comments: of ultimate beauty, what great class and allure! This Brora has aged gracefully; a distillate made for the long haul, indeed. I just regret that old enthusiasts who used to love the early Broras but are no longer with us cannot taste it. Such is life, c'est la vie...
SGP:466 - 96 points. |
 Check the index of all Brora we've tasted so far
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September 19, 2023 |
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A little trio of Bunnies
Oh well, there's a very recent Bunnahabhain exclusive to The Whisky Exchange, while we cannot go to this year's Whisky Show in London. Two good reasons to taste this Bunnahabhain, and then we'll see...
(Bunny's big trumpets, WF Archive)
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Bunnahabhain 32 yo 1990/2023 (54.8%, OB, Exclusive to The Whisky Exchange, oloroso butt, cask #7815, 537 bottles)
It's always tough not to think of the 'Auld Acquaintance' when trying any old sherried Bunnahabhain (Bunny for close friends and those in the know). Colour: rich amber. Nose: some faint steely notes at first, some genuine old oloroso as if we were nosing an actual old solera butt, the expected walnuts and these wee touches of mustard sauce, then crazy gravies, cigars, box of chocolates, ground coffee, and something between sauna oils, paraffin and lady's soap. A touch of wood varnish too. Awesomely deep and singular. With water: more varnish, paint, clove and beef jerky. The soap is gone – it wasn't exactly soap anyway. Mouth (neat): very heavy, bordering an old black Ténarèze, with loads of cracked pepper, myrtle and eucalyptus syrup, plus half a coffeepot of strong Turkish coffee. With water: still a little extreme on the sherry side, but with more prunes. And venison, and Marmite. Finish: very long, always with some varnish, which we love, something a little biting (chili) and some green pepper sauce. Pil-pil in the aftertaste, plus a small glass of the heaviest retsina. Comments: here's one with a lot to say... and it's full of pepper, clove, and echoes of jalapeno. What a brute! A lovable brute...
SGP:372 - 91 points. |
Good, some sparring partner, perhaps a younger sherry monster… |
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Bunnahabhain 13 yo 2009/2022 (52.7%, Acla da Fans & Sansibar, sherry butt, 142 bottles)
Colour: red amber. Nose: we're extraordinarily close, with the same varnishes and cloves, chocolate, old tools, coffee, fresh cracked pepper… With water: oh, some ointments and balms coming out, this is becoming much more medicinal. Good fun but where does that come from? Mouth (neat): this one's more on chocolate, blueberry jam, a little rosewater and some orange zests. It's pretty different on the palate, which is absolutely normal. Perhaps a little gin. With water: chocolate flavoured with rosewater and lavender. Unusual, good fun. Finish: long and very, very chocolaty. These medicinal notes are back in the aftertaste, together with some heavy black liquorice. Comments: I suppose that's all a matter of previous content. It doesn't quite feel like it was just sherry, but the end result is very good for sure, if a little… unusual. Bu Bunnahabhain is a sponge, we all know that.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
A third and last one 'from the old days'… |
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Bunnahabhain 23 yo 1989/2013 (45.7%, Wilson & Morgan, Barrel Selection, PX finish, cask #5817/18, 626 bottles)
W&M have had some wonderful Bunnies. Colour: full gold. Nose: propolis and mirabelles, not a common combo. Tiger balm and pine needles isn't very common either, and neither is marmalade plus wormwood. You could use this one for a rubdown, I suppose. Mouth: extremely good, more on chocolate, fir liqueur, old aquavits and genevers, chartreuse, only a few drops of Pedro, some zests… It's becoming pretty liqueury, in a rather wonderful way. Finish: rounder, yet herbal, with a feeling of liqueur de sapin aged in old oak. Fudge and thin mints in the aftertaste. Comments: great drop, a little unusual perhaps but I think you could drizzle this beautiful Bunnahabhain over some amazing artisanal vanilla ice cream. Or there, an Italian caramel ice cream.
SGP:661 - 89 points. |
We're going to taste massive amounts of Bunnahabhain in the coming weeks, brace yourselves, this was just a teaser. |
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September 18, 2023 |
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Glen Elgin, the last ones (4/4)
Yeah… |
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Glen Elgin 21 yo 1995/2017 (46%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Own Selection, refill hogshead, cask #3187)
It's true that we were still having this one, which did well at the Malt Maniacs Awards back then. Colour: white wine. Nose: it's a gentler one, but it is already 21 + 6. More fruit, pears, apples, bananas, plums, light barley syrup, toffee apple, white cherries, preserved greengages, a little paraffin… It's a cute drop on the nose, perhaps not the revelation of the century. Mouth: oh funny! Think a blend of tequila and williams pear eau-de vie. That could be early OBE just as well, but it's very unusual and more phenolic than other Glen Elgins, so we like it a lot. It's also got beautiful waxes and indeed, we're somewhat reminded of those old White Horse blends we were mentioning when we started this useless craze. Finish: medium, mezcaly, salty, smoky, with pistachios and almonds. Even more salt in the aftertaste. Comments: a very intriguing drop. As usual, we would wonder about the cask's previous content. Islay, no? Awesome Glen Elgin, nonetheless.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
A few more 1995s, we'll then jump to previous decades… |
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Glen Elgin 23 yo 1995/2018 (48.2%, The Whisky Agency, hogshead)
Was it Louise Brooks on the label? Colour: white wine. Nose: totally, absolutely close to the BB&R for a few seconds, then more, much more on chalk, grist, porridge and fresh marzipan, then on green, white and yellow fruits, around greengages and friends. Damp newspaper of the day (read printed newspapers! Yes I know this is a b****y blog). Mouth: great, very tart, full of green lemons, lime, green apples, grapefruits, then softer, sweeter fruits but it would remain tight and pretty grassy. Lovely earthiness too. Finish: long, on green tea, apple liqueur, paraffin, and with a chalkier aftertaste. Comments: water makes it a little piney and mentholy, beyond everything citrus and apples.
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
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Glen Elgin 24 yo 1995/2019 (51.3%, The Single Malts of Scotland, hogshead, cask #3200, 212 bottles)
TSMOS have bottled a lot of Glen Elgin. What I've always appreciated about them is that they primarily offer the distilleries they prefer, even if it means having many similar bottles. Colour: white wine. Nose: this one's rather rounder, with more sweet oak impact (not for the worse), some wonderful teas, touches of passion fruits beyond the usual citrus, crushed almonds, a little putty and a little fresh paint, touches of fennel, borage… With water: nope, no water needed, it went towards cardboard, although these notes of old cigars are lovely too. Good, you may add water, but jut on drop. Mouth (neat): tight once more, but the cask counterbalanced that a little bit, with some touches of mango cream and apple liqueur once more. Funny notes of dry Jurançon, drop of varnish. With water: you would think this was distilled in 1950. Believe me or not, I am reminded of some old White Horse, really (cross my heart). Finish: rather long, clearly salty at his point. Comments: hold on, let's add a drop of Lagavulin and see what happens (in the glass)… B****y peaters, they're so intrusive! But indeed we recreated something that, on the palate not on the nose, would remind us of some peaty blend. Surprise surprise, that was the most useless experimentation ever, it reminds me of certain 'innovations' by a few distillers craving press attention.
SGP:461 – 87 points. |
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Glen Elgin 20 yo 1995/2015 (51.7%, Maltbarn, bourbon, 116 bottles)
Maltbarn's whiskies often rank highly in any tasting. Colour: straw. Nose: some fat oils this time, vegetables, eggplant, bok choy, copper, pine oil, putty, peanut butter, celeriac… With water: lovey hay and grass, sunflower oil, putty… Mouth (neat): in the style of the TSMOS (without Lagavulin). A lot of grapefruit and chalk, lemon oil, oranges, waxes… With water: a tad more on resins, crushed nuts, and even more chalk. Drop of seawater, not sure where that's coming from. Finish: medium, on oils and chalk, zests and grass in the aftertaste. Comments: all these 1995s are very similar, it's kind of the limit of the exercise, we're going to end up tying knots in our brain, as some say.
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
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Glen Elgin 25 yo 1984/2009 (49%, The Whisky Cask, bourbon)
This is already an antique, is it not? Nah 2009, that was four years ago. Colour: white wine. Nose: same juice! It was pointless to step back by ten years or more. Perhaps a little more grapefruit, some gentler slate and chalk, some tangerines and peaches? Not too sure, could be smoke and mirrors, after all the age is similar and vintage effects in whisky remain highly controversial. Mouth: manzanilla!!!! Astounding fresh walnuts, mustard, lemon peel and seawater, with mild oxidation (or something like that) and some green apples. One almost feels like listening to flamenco. Finish: long, peppery, a bit medicinal, the aftertaste being tougher, tighter, grassier. Comments: I say the nose wasn't beautiful enough to guarantee 90 points, but what a palate! Well, you have to like Manzanilla…
SGP:461 - 88 points. |
Time to have a very last Glen Elgin, let's make it a really old one. In the end, it will have amounted to only twenty-eight Glen Elgins all in all, I am quite disappointed. |
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Glen Elgin 40 yo 1975/2015 (48.5%, Maltbarn, bourbon, 73 bottes)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: proof that age does matter. It's become tertiary and fractal, and even if you do feel that it wouldn't climb Mount Everest anymore, there are zillions of smaller fruits and berries playing together. Sorb, mistletoe, holly (eau-de-vie) drizzled over pistachio ice cream, small mushrooms, bizarre waxes and putties, resins, propolis and beeswax… But as often is the case with old single cask malts, a magnificent nose doesn't necessarily foretell a palate at its best form. Mouth: wrong. I mean, I was wrong. Honeys, waxes, balms, more pistachio, more sorb, elderberries, pink bananas, a little paraffin, even a tiny and salty drop of turpentine, green tea ice cream, mochi, perhaps ginseng powder… Finish: medium, not tired, rather on mint tea, with a drop of verbena liqueur and Suze. Do you know Suze? The aftertaste is a tad less entrancing, a little bitter and drying. Too bad, I was almost ready to come up with 91 points. Comments: a perfect final touch, though.
SGP:451 - 90 points. |
There are quite a few distilleries where one could embark on similar adventures, like trying 20, 30, or even 40 expressions in a row (but not all at once). Honestly, it's really interesting, but it's also exhausting, especially since we tend to find very similar whiskies at the same time from many independents. Well, we'll see, it's more entertaining to taste 'A Couple of Port Ellens' or 'Three Brora 1972', that's for sure (speaking of which, well, stay tuned…). |
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September 17, 2023 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
It's Sunday, it's Rum Day |
It is rum Sunday again, and I promise we don't talk about terroir. I mean, not explicitly. By the way, we've decided once and for all not to taste series of rums from the same distillery, nor even from a single country, perhaps to keep a 'vacation' vibe to all this madness, even though we're slowly approaching our two-thousandth expression. Which means nothing, we agree. Let's kick this off from a French island… |
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Rivière du Mât 'XO' (42%, La Réunion, +/-2022)
From the largest distillery in La Réunion, distilled from molasses and not cane juice, so it is a 'rhum traditionnel' although they also make 'agricole'. They use fresh molasses from their own production, though, they don't source them. This one is said to be 12 'on average'. Colour: full yellow gold. Nose: orange blossom and just oranges running the show, together with a little fudge and caramel. Then we have honeysuckle and dandelions, while it's getting more floral with also a touch of earth and tobacco. The whole remains relatively light and certainly very gentle. Mouth: rather spicier, with oaky accents, some cedarwood, cinnamon, very soft chilis, gentler pepper, then vanilla and perhaps a little papaya, with a faint waxy side but it'll remain rather light all along. It's rather a whisperer, as we sometimes say. Finish: same, fruits and flowers, lightly coated with some cedar and cinnamon. Funny aniseed and fennel seeds in the aftertaste. Comments: all gentleness, no real kick, but we're already way beyond our usual (and always pretty lousy) apéritifs.
SGP:641 - 82 points. |
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Birkenhof 'JON' (42%, OB, Germany, handcrafted rum, +/-2020) 
Apparently, this is molasses from Guatemala distilled in pot stills in Nistertal, north of… Limburg a/d Lahn, Germany. Rings a bell, doesn't it. I would suggest the Guatemalans import in turn little plums from their place and start to make Guatemalan schnaps. Colour: white wine. Nose: hey hey! Nice paraffin and diesel oil, olives, capers, rotting pineapples… Did they co-inoculate 'good bacteria' together with the yeast, or something like that? It is, indeed, pretty 'mucky'. Mouth: it is almost a little Jamaican, a sweeter one. Good fun here, with some liquorice, brine, olives, tar and just a little syrup. Cane syrup. Very intriguing, pretty good. Finish: medium to short, slightly handicapped by the sweetness and the low alcohol content, I would say. Comments: The problem with this style is that one immediately thinks of Jamaican rums, or of grand-arôme. In any case, it's ten thousand times better than that other German rum we know only too well, Der Gute Pott. Entschuldigung.
SGP:652 - 83 points. |
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Renegade 'Cuvée Nova' (46%, OB, Grenada, 2023)
This is the new all-island aged Renegade, a blend of different terroirs only available in the US for now, in the EU in spring next year. Colour: gold. Nose: I would say it's coastal rum, in the sense that briney and maritime elements are speaking up first, before anything 'old boat' would come out (tarry ropes, old boat engine, paint, putty, oil, old sardines – perhaps not…) and then several rotting (well, almost rotten) fruits, the usual pineapples, also bananas that went brown… I'm also finding pickled kumquats and various tropical chutneys. The Renegade style seems to be asserting itself, while we can't find the slightest trace of a wine cask, but is there even one, actually? Mouth: much pleased with this one, it's got the immediate fullness of some young whiskies from Campbeltown or Islay (S., A…). More brine and tar, over many overripe tropical fruits and grapefruits. There's some fatness, ala West Coast (any West Coast). Salted liquorice, a touch of mango jam, salted anchovy filets… Finish: long, still salty. Comments: I would really like to know if the majority of the sugarcane fields used here are located on the coast. Otherwise, where does all this incredible salinity come from? Hope they'll do one at 50% vol. too. Or there, 57%. I am almost certain that this juice would have already reached 90 points under these conditions, but it should reach and exceed them anyway as soon as it has benefited from just a little more maturation. This will undoubtedly place it at the forefront of Caribbean offerings. In such a short amount of time, it's quite spectacular... That said, as this first vatting is the youngest there will ever be, it could also later achieve cult status. Old Clynelish 5 yo, anyone?
SGP:563 - 89 points. |
Since we had been on La Réunion… |
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Savanna 6 yo (58.5%, OB, La Réunion, Germany exclusive, Unshared Cask, ex-cognac, cask #6, 768 bottles, 2022)
The label is a bit frightening, but it's a change from the butterflies and tropical fish that you see elsewhere. Not too sure whether this is a 'high-ester' Savanna, but we should soon see… It is a 'traditionnel' too, just like the Rivière du Mât, so molasses. Colour: pale gold. Nose: oh I see, fennel, dill, aniseed, pine needles, angelica, eucalyptus, balms, fresh camphor… Then toffee, roasted pecans and peanuts… Then tar, tobacco and Maggi. There are several rums in this one, several phases. Great fun, while you would believe they've used amburana or mizunara (or 'stuff'). With water: touches of metal polish, old silverware, leek and bok choy, lovage… That's the 'Maggi' part but there isn't any lovage in Maggi. Yes I've asked them. Mouth (neat): spices, green curry and a lot of cardamom. And alcohol, so quick… With water: many dried exotic fruits, around longans, lychees, jujubes… It's a soft landing. Finish: medium, and very different depending on the amount of water you've added. Comments: better not add too much water. A lovely piney side.
SGP:571 - 86 points. |
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Port Mourant at Uitvlugt 1995/2022 (53.4%, Swell de Spirits, Flashback Series, Guyana, cask #12)
We won't tell the story of that wooden still stuff for the umpteenth time. Colour: pale gold. Nose: of course. Bakelite, engine oil, petrol, sardines and anchovies, tapenade, garlic sauce (aioli), then cigars, cigarettes and the interior of an old Italian car. Someone's been smoking Toscani cigars in it for at least three decades. With water: tighter, more coastal, and very bizarrely, reminiscent of the Renegade, which is extremely odd from a chronological standpoint. Mouth (neat): cologne and petrol, or rather petrol and cologne, then more salted fish, olives, and everything that usually comes with that. With water: truffles, salts and waxes. A bit 'love it or hate it' at this point; I'll let you guess which side I'm on. Finish: very long, very salty, diesely. I've realised rather recently that many die-hard malt aficionados had never tasted these rums, well they still have wonderful things to discover. Comments: another case of stunning imperfections making a spirit dazzling.
SGP:463 - 90 points. |
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Caroni 1998/2023 (61.9%, Swell de Spirits, Trinidad, Private Garden #3, Cuvée Clos des Spiritueux)
I find their packaging always very elegant, which is a nice change from the random designs we see here and there. Colour: golden amber. Nose: it is a soft Caroni, but that may be the super-high strength. A little warm wood, roasted peanuts, autumn leaves, bourbony varnish… Not much else but I'm sure it's blocked by C25H6O. Correct, that's ethanol. With water: there, patchouli, bidis, eucalyptus, pine needles, 'a walk through a Mediterranean forest'... I agree that's not very 'Trinidad', but there… Mouth (neat): it is very harsh, very piney. I believe that H2O is absolutely necessary here. With water: it is not easy to get the amount of water right. What's sure is that it gets softer, but we remain around pine, fir, resins, needles and oils. Finish: very long, resinous, piney, and we won't mention 'that substance' they produce in vast quantities in Morocco. No, not argan oil. You're right, that would be liquorice, ha-ha. Comments: love it but very tough boy.
SGP:373 - 85 points. |
Please more elegant packaging… |
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Long Pond 2006/2023 (66.9%, Swell de Spirits, Jamaica, Private Garden, for Cave St Seurin)
The packaging is very elegant, indeed, but there must be a typo in the alcohol content. They could at least proofread their labels! If you swallow the wrong way, it kills you instantly. Colour: golden amber. Nose: Jamaican class. I'm not a huge fan of strictly all Long Ponds, but unless it would change a lot once brought down to civilised strengths, I have the impression that we're having a winner. Superb varnish, petrol, olives, brine and overripe bananas. With water: Formica (all the rage again), pencil shavings, olives, pickled lemons, gherkins, olives (twice?), nail polish, new sneakers, coal tar… Mouth (neat): you could even swallow a drop or two. Feels perfect, with litres of acetone (I know). With water: just splendid at +/-45% vol. Salty, with some oysters, acidic as it should, full of petrol and lemon juice, even more full of liquorice… It's just a little, say a bit cutting, but we're somewhat masochistic; otherwise we'd be drinking Heineken. Finish: long, fat, perfect. Little bergamotes dancing a jig in the background. Salty and tarry aftertaste, as requested. Comments: incredible, it is not a tasting session, it's an MMA fight or a great molasses explosion! (see below). Exceptional Long Pond, but what was the marque again? They should sell it in a bundle with a double-magnum of Vittel (boo Nestlé Waters, the cheque never arrived!)
SGP:564 - 91 points. |
I think we've reached the end; nothing could come after that Long Pond. |
Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far |
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September 15, 2023 |
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We're back with even more Glen Elgin (3/4)
You were warned.
(Magazine ad, 1934, USA. Blind was already the way)
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Glen Elgin 11 yo 2010/2022 (59.1%, James Eadie, UK, Bual Madeira cask finish, cask #3580020, 325 bottles)
A 19 months finish in Bual, which is a grape variety that's often used to make cooking, apéritif or desert Madeira. Madeira is one of the wines that can work well, in my experience. Colour: pale gold. Nose: I believe they're experts in this field. Awesome spicy banana cake, soft curry, very soft mustard, apple pie drizzled with honey and syrups, crema catalana… All is well. With water: custard and a pack of jelly babies and crocodiles. Indeed, rather crocodiles. Some 'winter tea', rosehip... Mouth (neat): rich but tarter, very lemony, with also a fino-y character, that is to say more mustard, even horseradish. It burns a little bit at this strength, but that's not very surprising. With water: easier, but with more pepper and mustard at the same time. Finish: long and rather on these Madeiras our cooks are using. You know the joke, 'I know a chef who always cooks with this and sometimes, he even adds some to the food'. Lovely sourness in the aftertaste. Comments: This little Glen Elgin was ultimately rather tight on the palate, but I really liked it still.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
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Glen Elgin 14 yo 2007/2022 (53.1%, James Eadie, UK, First fill Marsala cask finish, cask #354553, 287 bottles)
We're in Sicily this time, with Marsala, another fortified wine. Colour: deep gold. Nose: varnish and vinegar this time, even glue, acetone, 'a trip to Ikea'… That's good fun when you know that it'll change, eventually. With water: indeed it gets gentler, rather on almond halva, sesame, touches of earth, dry leaves, tobacco… It must have been some very dry Marsala. Have to find a good one, by the way. Mouth (neat): same tones of varnish, big mustard, more glue as well, heavy vinegar… I believe you could season your rucola with this. With water: and once again it would become gentler, rather with walnuts and tobacco this time. Bitter oranges and cinchona too. Finish: long, peppery, mustardy, leafy. Varnish and myrtle liqueur in the aftertaste. Comments: I really like this one, but I think someone's tried to make a statement. Myrtle pickers, perhaps?
SGP:361 - 82 points. |
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Secret Speyside 16 yo 2006 (54.2%, Single Malt Dreams, for Norsk Whiskyforbund, sherry hogshead finish, 245 bottles)
The little ghost of Ragnar Lodbrok told me this was Glen Elgin. Colour: straw. Nose: back on chalk, ale, walnuts, earth, old wine cellar and a wee glass of umeshu. With water: manzanilla! Enough said. Mouth (neat): excellent, tense and rich, with lovely walnutty spices, curry, pepper, juniper, capsicum, mustard, bitter oranges… With water: leaves, fino, mustard, bitter oranges, and just three raisins. The tiniest raisins they have. Finish: long, with this wonderful leafy bitterness. Glen Elgin with much knack. Comments: there is really not the slightest excessive sweetness in these Glen Elgins. They know how to behave!
SGP:361 - 87 points. |
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A Speyside Distillery 15 yo 2006/2021 (54%, Thompson Bros. for The Whisky Find, Taiwan, sherry hogshead since 2019, 307 bottles)
The same little ghost told me this was Glen Elgin too. Colour: straw. Nose: this time again we're finding varnish and acetone, although that part would tend to vanish in the air, quickly. Other than that, it is very bready and rooty, which works a treat. Plantain, parsnips, fresh cigars (better wait)… With water: it's pretty 'green', with leaves, apple peel, even notes of white calvados… Mouth (neat): there, varnish again. Then ultra-tight lime juice, mezcal, gherkins, olives… Good fun, even if it is not very 'Glen Elgin'. Neither is it very 'Speyside'. With water: sour citrus, leaves, branches, then some wax and a little mustard again. Perhaps even a little bear garlic? Finish: medium, very green and earthy, fermentary, with some sour beer in the aftertaste. Some sweetness too. Comments: perhaps more for the Stoics?
SGP:361 - 85 points. |
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Glen Elgin 15 yo 2008/2023 (58.5%, Lady of the Glen, Profiler barrique finish, cask #800179, 270 bottles)
I am deeply sorry, I must admit my ignorance, I have to confess I do not know what a 'profiler barrique' is, unless it is a barrique that was designed/prepared to impart a specific profile to the liquid it would then shelter. So, some kind of 'designer barrique' with specific toast and char etc.? Colour: full gold. Nose: fresh sawdust and vanilla, toasts indeed, brown toasts, halva and nougat, Nutella (apologies), panettone, fresh brioche… There's a pattern there, indeed. With water: not much change. Mouth (neat): good, a tad 'American' even if the cooperage was in Portugal (J. Dias, just south of Porto), but extremely spicy. Cracked pepper on crack, as they say. With water: oranges to the rescue, but it remains spicy, more on chili this time. Finish: medium, and barrique-led. Good work for sure, but you have to like them very spicy. Comments: I've tried chili liqueur only once in my life, and it was, well, an acquired taste. I think it was 'Ancho Reyes'. Very unusual.
SGP:372 - 83 points. |
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Glen Elgin 14 yo 2008/2022 (48%, Artist Collective, La Maison du Whisky)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: vanilla and brioches, milk chocolate, baklavas, roasted pine nuts, honeysuckle and orange blossom (Turkish delights). Tiny touch of pine resin. Not very 'Glen Elgin', but very nice. Mouth: it's new-wave bourbon, almost. Oak, curry, ginger, office coffee, maple syrup, touch of varnish, roasted pecans, vanilla. Finish: spicier, with more pepper, nutmeg and some hotter turmeric in the end. And lemon curd. Comments: decidedly modern, with the wood doing a large – yet good – part of the job.
SGP:461 - 85 points. |
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Glen Elgin 13 yo 2008/2021 (53.2%, The Maltman, for the Netherlands, PX finish, cask #1227790, 296 bottles)
A lot of finishes everywhere, I agree, but whose fault is it? The bottlers' lacking in excitement or the distillers' who offer very average casks with little soul? That's open for discussion (only on postcards or on Facebook please). Colour: amber gold. Nose: shoe polish! And roasted chestnuts, walnuts, metal polish, old coins (or old iPhones) and just a large tin box full of tealeaves. With water: Barbour grease, furniture polish, walnuts and more shoe polish. Impeccable, you would believe you're at House of Bruar's. Mouth (neat): nah it worked a treat. There's nasty dull, sweetish PX and there's good PX (apparently). Remember it's a grape varietal, not a type of wine, and that dry PX can be stunning. This is stunning, I find. With water: please do not add too much (guilty as charged, thank God I was having a lot). Otherwise, perfect. Cigars and teas. Finish: long, ashy, with more walnuts, polishes, some saltiness, and clearly a feeling of amontillado (I agree, that's not very 'PX', but there). Comments: why only the Netherlands? Joking, great drop.
SGP:462 - 88 points. |
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Glen Elgin 14 yo 2008/2022 (55.7%, Signatory Vintage, Kirsch Import, 1st fill sherry butt finish, cask #9, 639 bottles)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: there, bouillons, meats, marrow, old walnuts, cigars, leek, parsley, oranges, raw chocolate, drop of old balsamico. With water: and earth, mushrooms, autumn leaves, more cigars, more walnuts… This is Glen Jerez, well, almost. Mouth (neat): sweeter, more on triple-sec, figs, arrack, damson liqueur (the Alsatians make the best – well not too sure 'bout that), sloe, ripe dark figs… With water: this one too shouldn't be reduced too much. Walnut wine, cigars, notes of Madeira (we still have that glass on the side)… Finish: rather long, classic leafy sherry, with walnuts, mustard, pepper, salty touch… Comments: a rougher and tougher kind of sherry, with more pepper, walnuts and mustard. Excellent and dry.
SGP:361 - 86 points. |
We'll have some older ones next, stay tuned, and peace. |
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September 14, 2023 |
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Glen Elgin, let's just go on (2/4)
As we said… |
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Glen Elgin 10 yo 2008/2018 (59%, Mossburn, No.19, hogshead, batch #14.0518.19)
This should be tight, tense, malty. It's to be remembered that Glen Egin was electrified very late and that they had been using paraffin before. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: extreme grassy, branche-y, porridge-y style, extremely austere. With water: oats, porridge, concrete dust, green bananas. Mouth (neat): very powerful, almost burning, as if we were drinking it straight from the spirit safe (should we have the keys). Lemons and apple peel manage to make it through, though, but it wouldn't be reasonable not to add any water. With water: this time again, it gets sweeter and fruitier on the palate, this time towards absinth ans pastis, with a lot of aniseed and liquorice, fennel, raw green pears… Finish: long, still tight and sharp. Aquavit in the aftertaste. Comments: not the easiest one. I would have said Glendullan or something similar.
SGP:461 - 83 points. |
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Glen Elgin 8 yo (54.8%, Dram Mor, 1st fill bourbon finish, cask #301308, 244 bottles, 2022)
In the spirit of a proper old-school re-racking, I would say. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: you really feel the impact of the 1st fill barrel, as this one's rather easier, with touches of bananas, orange blossom, some celeriac and beets… That's nice and it does feel natural. The background remains on porridge, apples and citrus. With water: unusual whiffs of silk, old wardrobe, fur… And wool, which is more common in malt whisky, we agree. Mouth (neat): very good! Some kind of pastis aged in wood, with touches of sandalwood, cedar, liquorice wood and embrocations (warms your chest but that may just be all the ethanol, ha). With water: back to regular maltiness and the usual fruits, apples, citrus… Finish: long, rather grassier, with more fruit peel too, but always with this pastis in the aftertaste. Another one you could drink in Provence, to the sound of cicadas. Kss-kss-kss-kss-kss… Comments: I think this one's excellent. The short re-racking seems to have made wonders.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Glen Elgin 13 yo 2008/2021 (55.8%, Fable Whisky, Chapter 7 Piper, hogshead, cask #805339, 139 bottles)
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: simple, natural, on branches, apples, sunflower oil and not that much porridge or ale. A little custard. With water: more porridge, chalk, wool, barley, grist… Mouth (neat): in the style of the house (Fable Whisky), with good, well-controlled oak impact, good citrus, white pepper, granny smith, tiny coconut balls… With water: just very good, gentler than others but that's the creamier wood. Cake, lemon pie, a touch of coconut, marzipan, gummy bears, cream eggs… Finish: medium, sweet. Limoncello, Oreo and marzipan. Comments: not that much 'Glen Elgin', perhaps, but technically totally perfect.
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
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Glen Elgin 10 yo 2011/2021 (57.4%, Whisky AGE, hogshead, cask #801804, 313 bottles)
Hey, we're in Taiwan! Colour: pale white wine. Nose: back to pure Glen-Elginness, with a lot of porridge and ale, apple peel, chalk, cut grass… It's not one to tell funny stories. With water: almost like a wonderful Pilsner. I'm reminded of Urquell but last time I've had one that was fifteen years ago. Mouth (neat): very tight, with some varnish, ultra-dry white wine (the driest fino sherry ever, shall we say) and the tartest oranges. And all that works extremely well, go figure. With water: some unusual notes of rapeseed oil, white melon, jujubes, some unusual spicy waxes, not too sure what they are… … Finish: long and very much on fruit peel and green tea. Comments: all these Glen Elgins are very similar, but the more you taste, the more nuances you find. It's a little exhausting, but also very fun.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Glen Elgin 8 yo 2014/2022 (58.2%, Murray McDavid, first fill Koval bourbon finish, cask #2010500, 142 bottles)
It's pretty interesting that several bottlers would be using, and mentioning, ex-Koval casks. Colour: white wine. Nose: paraffin, porridge, apple peel, sour cream, sweet cheese, spicy marzipan… There's something slightly acetic, with a drop of baby vomit. With water: more of all that, and no we won't mention gym soc… I'm afraid we just did. Now it's much nicer than you think. Nice soft-curry-like spices. Mouth (neat): much nicer on the palate. The spicy bourbon cask works very well, with a feeling of rye (haven't checked if there's a lot of rye in Koval's bourbons, though), then ripe bananas, mint and gingerbread. Touch of turmeric. With water: good variant, spicier and richer. Finish: rather long, sour-sweet. Comments: a rollercoaster, but it's an interesting, if somewhat challenging, variant. But what won't they think of next!
SGP:661 - 83 points. |
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Glen Elgin 14 yo 2008/2023 (54.1%, The Whisky Cellar, Pintail, red floc de Gascogne finish, cask #3010; 298 bottles)
Oh, floc de Gascogne, that's lovely! Next time, pousse-rapière? Floc de Gascogne, if you will, is Armagnac's pineau des Charentes, it's grape juice fortified with young armagnac. Floc too comes in white, rosé and red variants. Colour: apricot. Nose: earthy, with some oak spices, old barrels, tomato leaves, red berries, peonies, then some eucalyptus that noses a little weird in this context… With water: no clashes, some mustiness tough, and once again some of that stuff that babies regurgitate from time to time. Mouth (neat): it's very fine, with lovely touches of old wood, old spices, red berries and all that, but I think the original distillate has been buried. With water: the sweet richness of the floc would tend to dominate the whole. What's good is that the red grape juice they're using to make these pineau-like specialties is never deeply steeped or macerated, so they remain 'a little closer to the whites'. Finish: rather long, sweeter, easier. Comments: it's good but indeed, what won't they think of next!
SGP:641 - 81 points. |
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Glen Elgin 13 yo 2007/2021 (52%, Chapter 7, oloroso & ruby Port, cask #570885, 233 bottles)
Sherry AND Port? To what do we owe this incredible addition of rare Iberian flavours? Colour: deep gold. Nose: ha, the distillate seems to have kept the upper hand, as we're finding just as many porridgey aromas as in the 'natural' ones. And ale, concrete, chalk, paraffin, grass and leaves. The wines seem to rather act as cakes and jams, but they would never get in the way. Now what I'm also finding is some ripe red grapes, such as pinot noir. When you crush them between your fingers while you were wandering in the end of August throughout a Grand Cru... Okay, we're digressing. With water: some old pipe tobacco, all over the place, then some menthol and leaves. The leaves, that's the Port. Mouth (neat): it's the oloroso that's doing the job, but the combination works. It's got pretty smoky, coffeeish and chocolaty, with some cracked pepper lurking in the background. With water: surprisingly to my liking. Lovely peppers and strawberries, all we'd need to add is a little champagne to feel like we're in a 1960s romantic movie. Finish: rather long, unexpectedly balanced. Old bachelor's jam. Comments: I wouldn't have bet a kopeck on this horse.
SGP:561 - 85 points. |
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Glen Elgin 12 yo 2008/2020 'I offer you centuries of light' (56.5%, Whiskybroker for Whisky Facile, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #653, 180 bottles)
This seems to be about Circe and Ulysses; I just bloody hope that this potion won't turn me into a pig. Colour: white wine. Nose: perfect last one for today, ultra-pure, some totally raw and natural Glen Elgin, with chalk, soot, porridge, green apples, lemons, menthol, grist, and then a bit of custard tart and some awesome mustiness (precious old cellar, hessian, dunnage…) With water: high-end green teas, which are little worlds in themselves. That's awesome. Mouth (neat): notes of mocha, demerara sugar, heavy honey, roasted malt and nuts, pecans… It is completely different on the palate, much richer. With water: pur-fekt. Some roots, grasses, more roasted nuts, cakes, bean curd, mochi, green coffee… Finish: medium, spicier, wonderfully balanced. Perfect sweet ginger and a little marmalade, with even a tiny coastal/salty touch in the aftertaste (what was the previous fill?) Comments: I think this is my favourite this far, but we've only tried fifteen of them, if I do the math goodly (what?)
SGP:451 - 88 points. |
Many more to come, stay tuned… |
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September 13, 2023 |
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Dazzling Glen Elgin 1/4
It is truly astonishing to see that the number of samples from this or that distillery can increase very suddenly, without warning, depending on the batches of barrels that are put on the market and distributed to smaller (but very valiant) independents. This is currently the case for Glen Elgin, as while we hadn't even tasted a hundred of them in over twenty years, several dozens of them have come knocking on our door in recent months, not to mention the ones we've sourced ourselves. But we're not complaining, it's an excellent distillate! Remember the old White Horse blends? |
One of White Horse's homes was Glen Elgin
(extremely modern magazine ad, 1967, USA) |
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Glen Elgin 12 yo (43%, OB, +/-2022)
We last tried it in 2016, it's been all about roasted malt and coffee (WF 82), let's see… Colour: straw. Nose: oh I remember, it's raw, very earthy, very malty indeed, and with a lot of ale and stout. You would almost believe they had distilled some Guinness. Some black earth as well, autumn leaves, fresh walnuts, wet coffee dregs… Now it would settle down eventually, moving towards some walnut cake and pecan pie. Mouth: it is really not an easy tiple, but that's part of its charms. More Guinness, Nescafé, tobacco and coffee, strong honey… One can imagine that there are old Scots who swear only by this Glen Elgin and remain loyal to it. It's certainly not an easy and commercial style. Finish: medium, malty, on bitter ale and more walnuts yet. Comments: as I remembered it. As I said, I'm sure it's got its die-hard aficionados.
SGP:361 - 82 points. |
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Glen Elgin 'Peated Finish' (44.5%, Murray McDavid, Craft Series, Batch #Peat01, 2022)
It was finished in an ex-Islay cask, so that's what we sometimes call 'in-cask blending'. These are really creeping in these days… Colour: pale white wine. Nose: it's reminiscent of some young yoghurty Tobermories that would have gathered a little Ledaig. I'm finding porridge first, then toothpaste, chlorophyl, yoghurt indeed, leaves, garden smoke (bonfire), ozone, touches of mud, leaves… Mouth: more fruitiness, with some Caol-Ila-like citrus, lemon custard tart, drops of limoncello, more leaves, nice touches of basil and dill, perhaps some of Glen Elgin's deep maltiness too, but it does really feel like a blended malt. A good blended malt. Finish: rather long, with more peppery and leafy smoke. Ashier aftertaste. Comments: not a bad drop at all, quite the opposite, but I'm really not a fan of all these in-cask-peated single malts, even if many are actually pretty excellent.
SGP:364 - 80 points. |
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Glen Elgin-Glenlivet 12 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, bourbon, 2022)
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: very austere, very leafy at first, with some grains and chalk then, plus a little aniseed, liquorice and wormwood, which gives this little baby a touch of absinth, shall we say. Then more and more porridge, as in the others. This porridge is rather of the sour, mashy, traditional kind. Mouth: very close to the OB, with just less oak impact, so less sweetness in this very case, and even more leaves, malt and porridge. Finish: medium, but oranges are coming to the rescue now. That's good. A little demerara sugar too, maple syrup as well… Comments: it really took off on the palate, after a few minutes. The nose remains anecdotal.
SGP:561 - 84 points. |
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Glen Elgin 11 yo 2012/2023 (60.9%, Watt Whisky, hogshead)
Colour: white wine. Nose: extremely Glen-Elginy (oh come on), with everything porridge, chalk, husk, ale and green walnuts. With water: more porridge than at Porridge, Porridge & Sons'. Mouth (neat): I don't know if that's the effects of ethanol, but I'm finding this one much fruitier than the others, more citric in a good way, and shock-full of pink grapefruits. That's enough vitamins for the whole week (writing this on a Monday night). With water: wonderful, wondering if it was the same whisky that we had on the nose. More of those pink grapefruits, some regular ones as well, some stewed rhubarb, and then this compotey feeling that's always rather perfect. Stems and leaves keep it straight in the background. Finish: long, more on raw barley, beers, more citrus, walnuts… Comments: an impressive body here. Awesome raw maltiness, no wood in the way.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
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Glen Elgin 11 yo 2009/2021 (58.8%, The Single Malts of Scotland, cask #807777, hogshead, 238 bottles)
Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: once again, no wood in the way, just porridge again, leaves, a little cork (it is not corked), pine needles, lemongrass, crystallised angelica (perhaps)… With water: grapefruit, juice, flesh and skin. Mouth (neat): very creamy, in the style of the Watt, with big citrus, a tiny spoonful of yoghurt, the ten-times aforementioned porridge, these grapefruits, limes… With water: just perfect. A tiny hint of smoke but I may be dreaming. More porridge and white bread too. Finish: grapefruits at the helm, for a long time. Barley and IPA. Comments: superb all-natural, characterful malt whisky. I'm more than happy because I think we'll have many similar ones…
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
These wee session with very similar whiskies can be a little tough but on the other hand, provided the whiskies are good, they push you towards your limits. |
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Glen Elgin 11 yo 2009/2021 (58.4%, The Single Malts of Scotland, cask #807781, hogshead, 247 bottles)
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: back to ueber-porridgeness and utter leafiness. A little tough, this one. With water: but who's decided to distil the lawn and all the fallen leaves? Loads of chalk, flour, sourdough… Mouth (neat): chills! Huge lemons and limes, melissa, grapefruits… I mean you couldn't make it zestier. With water: opens up like a flower in the morning, with some nectar, light honey, puréed chestnuts, but rather less citrus this time. Don't they say in the Bible that the ways of the barrels are inscrutable? Finish: long, mashy and spicy, probably less 'pure' than its sister cask. Comments: excellent, just a tad less 'pure' indeed.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
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Glen Elgin 13 yo 2008/2022 (51.8%, The Dava Way, recharred hogshead, 305 bottles)
Some new bottlers connected to Dunphail and Bimber distilleries. I say in terms of pedigree, you can't do much better (even if I don't know much about Dunphail). Colour: pale white wine. Nose: touch of varnish and wine vinegar at first, then a little acetone, then grapefruits, then porridge, then custard, then candyfloss, then coconut balls (that's the recharring). Something else. With water: back to sour fruits, lemons, leaves… Mouth (neat): I see where this is going. More oak impact, more complexity as well, some coffee, wood varnish, coconut wine, then the expected citrus. All the porridge that we had found in the others has become, say meringue. With water: perfect, no more run-around, rather citrus juice. Finish: medium, citrusy, with notes of plane mango and a drop of yellow chartreuse. Zesty aftertaste. Comments: I think I liked the 'nature monsters' a little better (Watt, first TSMoS) but this is close. The coconut was under control.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
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Glen Elgin and White Horse |
| Glen Elgin, much like Lagavulin, was at the heart of the famous White Horse and undoubtedly contributed to the power and body of this legendary, very peaty and malty blend for our modern palates, even though old advertisements labeled it as "smooth" and "mellow." Sure thing. The distillery was purchased by DCL/SMD for White Horse Distillers around 1929-1930. Old bottles of Glen Elgin indeed prominently featured a white horse on the labels, and some relatively recent ones were still branded 'White Horse Glen Elgin,' like a version for Japan. |
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September 12, 2023 |
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Two indie Glenfarclas and one bonus |
We've tried rather a lot of Glenfarclas lately, but a lot is never enough with Glenfarclas. And new or even recent 'disclosed' indies are becoming extremely scarce…
(The still house, photograph Glenfarclas)
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Glenfarclas 20 yo 2003/2023 (51.8%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 264 bottles)
Part of this summer's releases. WM Cadenhead have stopped calling them 'Glenfarclas-Glenlivet' quite some years ago already. We've already liked several of their bourbon hogsheads. Colour: white wine. Nose: there's always this fatness, even on the nose, which is supposed to stem from direct firing, at least partly. So we're finding fatter breads, fatter patisseries (with more butter inside, ha) and then the, well, the fattest porridge you could think of. Vanilla and crushed bananas are bringing all this back to reason. With water: fresh sawn oak, oatcakes, porridge, bits of grapefruit and green apple. Whiffs of menthol are bringing more action after a minute or two. Mouth (neat): sweet beers, ginger mints, cinnamon mints, bitterer grasses, bitterer beers, melon skin… With water: bursting fruits, plus a little coconut and white pepper from the cask. Red currants, gooseberries, pears, peaches… I was worth your Vittel (or any waters you would prefer, just not too 'pure' – a myth - and not from the tap.) Finish: rather long, joyful, fruity. Comments: it needed water and never stopped improving then. I believe it would be a shame to try this without water just because 'it's only 51.8%'. We're no cowboys, are we.
SGP:661 - 86 points. |
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Glenfarclas 7 yo 2013/2021 (60.6%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, 1st fill PX hogshead, #1.238, 'Oranges and Well-Danced Upon Oak', 213 bottles)
In theory, this is way too young. By the way, they had already bottled 237 Glenfarclasses when they did this one, but it's true that it was the first distillery they ever bottled. Colour: deep gold. Pretty active cask. Nose: deep pilsner beer, many dandelions, and a huge banana cake for 24 people, that's what I'm getting at 60+%. With water: 1st fill PX, really? No vinosity whatsoever, hardly any raisins, but some wonderful whiffs of fresh cut hay. We're not losing in the deal, are we. Mouth (neat): very modern, cask-driven, very creamy mouth feel, quite some white pepper, gentian liqueur, cinnamon and ginger upfront… With water: sweet oak, lemon drops and even touches of peat – well, a faint feeling of peat, plus candied cherries, candied orange zests... Finish: quite long, on similar notes, especially orange zests indeed. And cinnamon. Comments: feels a little technological, so to speak, a little 'boosted', but it is extremely pleasant. 21st century malt whisky, probably NAS elsewhere.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
Good, we can't help, please an official bonus… |
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Glenfarclas 1989/2014 (54.7%, OB, Family Casks, TSMC Taiwan, cask #13026, 628 bottles)
Our dear friends in Asia seem to be loving these deep-sherried Glenfarclas. I must have Asian ancestors… Colour: dark red amber. Nose: rich and deep, very jammy, ridden with black raisins, dried figs, dates, with wee whiffs of wood smoke too, chocolate, lit cigar, the ristretto-est espresso … In short, some ultra-classic sherried Glenfarclas from those days. Many 1988s, 1989s and 1990s had been 'filled like this', if I remember well. With water: more black berries, clove, mulled wine, cocoa and dates. A large pack of big fat dried dates, love them too. Mouth (neat): just huge, thick, extremely chocolaty and full of coffee, I believe if you push just a little further you just get 'sherry at cask strength'. With water: just coffee-schnapps, with perhaps a thin slice of Schwartzwalder. Finish: liquid Schwartzwalder indeed. Immense chocolateness. Comments: classic, just a wee tad 'heavy and simple' or it would have made it to 90, easily.
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
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Glenfarclas and the SMWS |
| The rumour has it that Pip Hills, the founder of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, personally went to pick up his first cask of Glenfarclas, thus #1.1, in a pre-war Lagonda. Naturally an old car, because the more recent Lagondas, like their cousins the Aston Martins, could hardly accommodate a single case of nine or twelve bottles. At WF we had the pleasure of tasting this 1.1 about five years ago; it was quite superb, though not totally out of this world. Alas, we have never driven the Lagonda. |
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September 11, 2023 |
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Rugby World Cup Special,
Tullibardine young and old |
To be honest, I had considered doing a big session with spirits from every single country participating in the Rugby World Cup this year, which would have been easy to do (technically). But in the end, I thought it was a bit of a dated idea. Sometimes, you have to listen to yourself... So, we'll simply have an old official Tullibardine that celebrated another World Cup, plus naturally, a sparring pertner. |
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Tullibardine 8 yo 2015/2023 (53.7%, Dram Mor, first fill oloroso finish; cask #656932)
I've got a problem, I always first write 'Dram More' and no, I haven't turned MS-Word's autocorrect on. Must be a personal bias. I had tried an earlier 8 by Dram More, I mean Dram Mor and rather loved it (WF 85 and not WF 80 as, I've just seen, they write on their website!) Colour: deep gold. Nose: walnut cake, cookies and even ice cream (ever tried that delicacy?) all over the place, plus touches of tight bitter oranges and a growing, rather unusual earthiness that would lead to some kind of mustard. I'm finding all this pretty Tullibardine, in fact. With water: not unexpected, copper, old tools, a box of pre-war nails and so on. Mouth (neat): beautifully weird(ish), so classic, with some sour notes at first, mustard indeed, a lot of nutmeg and caraway and, naturally, more walnuts than on a walnut tree. Then rose liqueur – but where does this come from? With water: always this uncommon, but lovely sourness. Earlier bottlings were more extreme in that respect, and probably a little deviant, but these are much 'cleaner' although they wouldn't have lost the distillery's character, which the heavyish sherry did not offset. Finish: medium, with mustard, walnuts and old copper coins. Comments: love these 'flaws that aren't flaws'.
SGP:462 - 86 points. |
Speaking of older Tullibardine… |
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Tullibardine 40 yo 1966/2006 (48%, OB, World Cup Edition 2006, sherry butt, cask #2132, 384 bottles)
Not rugby, sadly, only football/soccer. That's when we lost to Italy in Germany, so what's to celebrate anyway? Zidane's headbutt on Materazzi? Bah that's only football, so let's rather try this old Tullibardine to celebrate the Rugby World Cup 2023 (writing all this even before France vs. All Blacks, so that you know). Full sherry and natural cask strength. Colour: dark amber/copper. Nose: I had heard about this one's reputation so sadly, I am not surprised. It is pure old PX, from a solera started in, like the year 1800 and bottled in, like the year 1950. Stunning sun-dried raisins, old cognac, very old rancio and dried figs. It is not even very complex, but the fullness is astounding. Maybe because it had been re-racked after the Distillery had been sold in the early 2000s? Mouth: two-sided. First the same kind of extreme top-of-range sweet PX, and second a much drier, coffee and oak-fuelled development, full of old walnuts once more, cocoa powder, cigar tobacco, clove… Finish: long and even more clove-y and chocolaty. A rather sumptuous bitter coffee in the aftertaste, with a marmalade-y signature. Comments: two old whiskies in one, in fact, which would indeed suggest it had been re-racked in PX. But as always, I could be totally wrong. L | | |
