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| Hi, you're in the Archives, August 2024 - Part 1 |
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August 14, 2024 |
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The Olympic Sessions, Day 15, from Bulgaria to Japan
It's time to try to recover from our visit to the superb Whisky Fringe in Edinburgh, which we attended for the very first time. Now, here is our last (or second-to-last?) Olympic session now that the real games have been well and truly over for two or three days. And this time, we'll start with a rather new malt-whisky-producing country, at least according to our own little index here at WF.
(Advert for Wild Turkey, c.1985. No global warming issues in sight.) |
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Isperitus (43%, OB, Bulgaria, single malt, rum barrel finish, 1,800 bottles, 2024) 
Our first Bulgarian whisky, and indeed, our first Bulgarian single malt. And no, we’ve never tried ‘Black Ram’ – quite the oversight, we must admit. The distillery resides in Isperih, a quaint town in the northeast of Bulgaria, some 150 km from Varna. Colour: gold. Nose: rather pleasant, I must say, with a delicate fragrance. You get those gentle notes of sweet beer typical of very young whiskies, some juicy pear slices, well-balanced vanilla, and oak, and perhaps a hint of rum – but nothing overdone, mind you, so it doesn’t overwhelm the whisky’s character, as can happen elsewhere. Well done, Bulgarian friends. Mouth: indeed, not bad at all, quite in line with the nose. There’s pear again, and prickly pear too, touches of orange, a whisper of baker’s yeast, followed by toasted wood and a touch of toffee. The fruitiness is enough to carry it through and avoids the ‘new plank’ note often found in other very young whiskies. Rather clever to have done a rum finish (and I don’t often say that!). Finish: not even too short. The usual notes of white pepper and cinnamon linger in the aftertaste. Comments: This is rather serious stuff!
SGP:641 – 83 points. |
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Milk & Honey ‘Elements Sherry Cask’ (46%, OB, Israel, +/-2024)
Colour: gold. Nose: leaning towards the sweet side, with notes of jelly babies, grenadine, and figs, giving the impression of a sweeter style of sherry. Pralines follow, along with a mix of triple-sec (Cointreau and Grand Marnier, 50/50), and a hint of very fresh panettone, packed with raisins and a touch of orange blossom. I had tasted this ‘Element’ a few years ago, and it seems to have improved mucho since then. Mouth: indeed, it’s harmonious, sweet, very fruity, almost a tad liqueur-like, but pleasantly so. There are small red fruits, cranberries, and blood orange... Finish: follows the same profile, very fruity, without major spices along the way, though there’s a hint of Timut pepper. Comments: it’s not the most ‘prestigious’ of the latest M&H releases, but there will certainly be more to come here on little WF. Peace.
SGP:631 – 84 points. |
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Milk & Honey 4 yo 2018/2023 (65.8%, Whisky Concerto, Israel, STR, cask #0505, 175 bottles)
I fear that in general, we may never escape the clutches of STR casks again. Nor PX, nor Cabernet-Sauvignon. What can you do, that’s life. Colour: light amber. Nose: rather surprisingly, we find ourselves leaning towards the profile of a young, slightly artisanal bourbon, with liquid caramel, though this likely stems from the very high ABV. Beyond that, it seems rather lovely, rich yet balanced, not vinous as such (but many STR casks aren’t). Quickly, with water: a hint of gin, sweet woodruff, coriander seeds, fresh wood... Mouth (neat): once more, that amusing bourbon-like quality, with even a touch of rye, then dark nougat, juniper, capsicum, and increasingly prominent pepper. Quickly, with water: its better side emerges, with soft pepper, malt, Szechuan pepper, touches of turmeric, and cinchona… Finish: we find a bit of the fruitier side reminiscent of the official version we just sampled, but always with a very marked spicy edge. Comments: very good for its age, but you'll need a pipette worthy of an international competition. Peace.
SGP:562 - 84 points. |
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Wild Turkey ‘Rare Breed’ (58.4%, OB, USA, Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, +/-2024) 
We tried a newer expression of WT ‘101’ the other day and were quite taken with it (WF 86). This Rare Breed small batch is reputed to be very ‘maizy’ (75% maize) and is pleasantly affordable. Colour: full gold. Nose: strong yet soft if you will. A slight note of nail polish and hairspray, then orange-infused vanilla and a hint of Earl Grey. Quite charming. With water: rather similar, soft, fruity, with curious but delightful touches of lemon basil. The hairspray notes fade away, thankfully shall we add. Mouth (neat): lovely! There may not be much rye, but its presence remains unmistakable, with orange and cumin, lemon balm, sweet woodruff, and even tiny hints of genepy. I’m quite fond of it. With water: cinnamon and honey step forward, still with that orange note. Finish: much the same. The balance is quite perfect, and the oranges play their role as the ‘uplifters’, if you see what I mean. Comments: let’s not forget that Pernod Ricard sold Wild Turkey to Campari for €430M back in 2009. Well, I’m not sure why that’s relevant here, but there you have it. Solid bronze medal!
SGP:631 - 87 points. |
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Nantou 5 yo ‘Batch 2’ (52%, That Boutique-y Whisky Company, Taiwan, 10th Anniversary, 281 bottles, 2022)
Colour: white wine. Nose: brilliant! Iodine tincture, drawing gum, paraffin, cloves, camphor, bandages, beech smoke… Was there a reracking in a Laphroaig cask, by chance? I wasn’t aware – or perhaps I’ve missed the memo – that Nantou produced this style. With water: beautiful purity this time. A glass of Verdejo and some fresh wool (a new cashmere jumper – woof). Mouth (neat): again, this rather unique peatiness, this time giving the impression of smoked mussels with lemonwood or something along those lines. With water: it starts to go slightly off the rails, with plastic and rubber showing up a tad too prominently, but overall, it remains very good. Finish: long, with ashes and lemon zest. And that famous new cashmere jumper. Comments: a bit unusual and even deviant, but we’re French, so we’re supposed to like that, according to the world’s press, ha.
SGP:465 - 85 points. |
Let's try to nab a gold medal... |
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Chichibu 8 yo 2014/2024 (56.4%, Adelphi, Japan, cask #3822, 215 bottles) 
Ah, there we have it, brilliant! It seems they’ve finally upped the font size on their labels at Adelphi, but now it's all in Japanese! Provocative, isn’t it? Not that we don’t admire Japanese characters, mind you… Colour: straw. Nose: razor-sharp precision, pure barley, lemon, and that’s all, basta cosi. With water: even more pinpoint, almost Malevich-esque. A white square on a white background. Mouth (neat): pure Chichibu, thick yet nervous, tense, with barley, lemon, and a hint of hay. Tiny notes of gentian and absinthe peeking through. With water: sublime purity, with that barley nudging its way back in. Finish: long, lemony, slightly waxy, a tad thick, with a whisper of tar. Comments: simply our preferred style. And it’s hardly surprising that the folks at Ardnamurchan/Adelphi chose this cask. Great minds think alike, and all that. However, there’s still the matter of sorting out that label issue. When’s the head designer retiring, again? Anyway, gold.
SGP:551 - 91 points. |
Alright, we'll see tomorrow if we can squeeze in one last little Olympic session. Or maybe two. |
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August 13, 2024 |
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The Olympic Sessions, Day 14 |
(from London to Taiwan)
We start with France. Well, one from England, ending up in a French cask. Many British celebrities have ended their lives kind of in a French cask, in a way, like Oscar Wilde. I know, calling Oscar Wilde a British figure is a bit of an exaggeration.
Tiffany’s New York Bar at the InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong (Tiffany's New York Bar) |
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Bimber 2018/2023 (58.9%, OB, England, LMDW, cognac cask finish, cask #327/05)
Between us, it's quite an achievement to manage to sneak a finishing in the production of such a young whisky, isn't it? But we do love Bimber... Colour: gold. Nose: sweet and gentle, with vanilla and a few raisins, then banana and the usual hint of mango. Tinned peaches do indeed evoke cognac, though we remain quite soft here, with a medium-sized panettone making an appearance thereafter. With water: pure cassata, with plenty of dried fruits. Mouth (neat): slightly creamy and sweet, with citron and bitter orange, a drop of banana liqueur, ultra-ripe apricots, and honey... With water: that slightly liqueur-like side of Bimber, quince jelly, mango liqueur... It works perfectly. And of course, peach jam, probably from the cognac (not entirely sure, S.). Finish: medium length, liqueur-like fruitiness, sweet pastries, crossing into almonds. Comments: it's extremely good and certainly not a 'cognacsky.'
SGP:741 - 87 points. |
While we're at it, more muscat! There aren't many whiskies left that don't rely on wine at all, are there? |
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Bimber 'Oval' (57.56%, OB, England, The Spirit of the Underground, Moscatel cask, cask #282/22, 307 bottles, 2024)
We know ‘Oval’, but we know ‘Orval’ better. Sorry, we couldn’t help ourselves. That said, the connection between the London Underground and Spanish Moscatel seems a bit far-fetched, doesn’t it? Colour: deep gold. Nose: good news, it’s not an overwhelming muscat explosion that makes you want to immediately chug a magnum of Perrier. Instead, it offers a pastry-like aroma, reminiscent of galette des rois, frangipane (a bit off-season, aren’t we?), and orange blossom water. Lebanese pastries (poor Lebanon!) With water: notes of sesame oil. Mouth (neat): the woodiness is quite present, with a pronounced white pepper at the forefront, followed by ginger and dark chocolate. Lots of pepper. With water: it becomes more floral, with also Demerara sugar and a hint of beetroot. Yes, really. Finish: quite long, quite spicy, quite vegetal. Herbal. Comments: it lacks a bit the ‘clear line’ of Bimber, in my opinion. In any case, I have the impression that muscat is very difficult to handle generally, but it remains an excellent whisky of course.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
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Willett 'Pot Still Reserve' (47%, OB, USA, Straight Bourbon, +/-2023)
I must admit, I haven’t yet totally found in recent Willets the magnificence of some older versions. Apparently, this is a batch-distilled bourbon rather than ex-continuous column, unless I’m mistaken (which wouldn’t surprise us, S.). Colour: gold. Nose: sweet, fruity, with cedarwood, vanilla, apricot liqueur, a touch of coconut, a very light varnish, and that ‘liquid patisserie’ note—admittedly a bit nonsensical, we agree. Mouth: no, it’s good, very bourbon, with initial notes of juniper and lavender, followed by vanilla, ripe apple, and white pepper, then a hint of maple syrup. Finish: quite long, easy, honeyed, delicately spiced, with a gin-like quality. Yes, it’s me who wrote that. More wood in the aftertaste. Comments: very good, not taking many risks, for our benefit.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
We want to continue with another small American NAS, which is very cheap indeed. Premiumisation these days, my apple, de-premiumization might be en route. |
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Knob Creek 9 yo 'Small Batch' (50%, OB, USA, Kentucky Straight Bourbon, +/-2023)
We’ve only sampled Knob Creek once before, and it wasn’t bad at all (WF 83 in 2014). Colour: full gold. Nose: yes, lovely, light, vanilla with hints of sandalwood and incense, juniper, ginger, cedar... Who could object to that? Mouth: but of course, it’s very good, almost perfect, spiced just right, perhaps a tad too oaky, but otherwise, on apples and oranges. An increasingly pronounced rye character – is there a lot of rye in Knob Creek? Finish: of medium length, perhaps just a bit drying. Comments: I like it rather a lot.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
Here you go, we're in the mood to taste a little Nantou/Omar from a few years ago. We have plenty in stock. |
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Nantou 4 yo 2014/2018 'Omar' (56%, OB, for Hot Malt, Taiwan, Keeper Richard's Choice 2, bourbon cask, cask #11140817, 210 bottles)
A compadre Keeper! One gets the feeling this will go well... A quick reminder that Omar/Nantou is part of a state monopoly in Taiwan. Try this here and within a year, they'd all be round as barrels and not a single bottle would hit the market. Quite. Colour: white wine. Nose: oh, ashes, seaweed smoke, oysters, wet limestone, white pepper... It's magnificent. With water: new plastic, engine oil, nylon, polystyrene... Mouth (neat): superb. Young Lagavulin meets young Ardbeg, 50/50. A bit rough, though. With water: good, but still a tad aggressive. Vegetation smoked with beechwood. Finish: very long, saline, very smoky, arguably a touch extreme. A hint of mercurochrome. Comments: not subtle, but then again, only 4 years old.
SGP: 367 - 86 points. |
... and in Taiwan, there is also ... |
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Kavalan 9 yo 2014/2024 ‘9 years + 363 Days’ (60.2%, Tiffany’s New York Bar Hong Kong, Taiwan, Port cask, cask #O140311068A, 147 bottles) 
This baby offers an abundance of fun, and we adore that they didn’t wait the extra three days to make it a ‘ten’ (remember, ten = deal). A sublime bit of coquetry from our friends at the InterContinental Grand Stanford Hong Kong on this Taiwanese malt! Colour: mahogany. Nose: a carpenter’s workshop, cherry wood, teak, thuja, tomato sauce, cellulose varnish, then blackcurrant buds. A slight hint of young Pommard. With water: incense and pepper, mushrooms, brown tobacco (Gauloise), pine bark, humus. Mouth (neat): it’s really quite excellent, though perhaps a tad over-wooded. Cherry stem tea, cherry liqueur, bitter almonds, Italian cigars (Toscani), cloves… With water: gentler, chocolatey, with kirsch. Don’t add too much water, though, despite the 60.2% ABV. Finish: another whisky that leans slightly towards rum. I’d say a Port Mourant from Guyana. Comments: no, it’s quite superb, very fine cask aging technology, although for me, nothing can surpass the best ex-bourbons from Kavalan.
SGP:461 - 88 points. |
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August 12, 2024 |
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The Olympic Sessions, Day 13 (kind of, not sure anymore)
Red Bull and whiskies from around the world to set us right. We’re leaving from France again… Indeed, even though the official Paris Games ended yesterday, we'll carry on a bit longer on our end.
At St. Kilian in Germany (St.Kilian Distillers)
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Alfred Giraud ‘Intrigue #2’ (51.5%, OB, France, +/-2024)
We genuinely enjoyed the first version of this Intrigue, offered by the whisky growers/breeders Alfred Giraud. Young whisky sourced from France, then aged in top-tier casks and bottled in a luxurious fashion, reminiscent of the great Cognac houses with their ‘super-premium’ expressions. Colour: gold. Nose: very fine delicacy, with ripe yellow peaches and a hint of Sémillon, meadow honey, a bit of alpine muesli (what?), and a complex, rather fruity curry, followed by notes of almond croissant. It’s quite unimpeachable, shall we say. With water: as often with young whiskies, it leans towards cake dough, baker’s yeast, and white flowers. A slight chalky touch, as is often the case. Mouth (neat): juicy, still on ripe peach, but with more prominent wood (ginger, cinnamon) and strongly infused green tea. A pronounced French oak character. With water: it falls into place, with a return of fruits, apricot and peach, plus honey and herbal teas, chamomile, cinnamon... Finish: long, with casks playing the leading role. Plenty of tea. White clover in the aftertaste. Comments: very good, as expected. Truly a very good cask-driven work.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
Let's have a bit of fun with some Muscat wine... |
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Morris of Rutherglen ‘Muscat Barrels’ (46%, OB, Australia, +/-2023) 
Back to Victoria we go, to visit these winemakers/distillers. This is a finishing in their own Australian muscat casks (Morris), which I find rather cool. Hooray for self-finishing! Colour: deep gold. Nose: the sweet wine is noticeable but works well, being balanced, delightful, soft, fruity, and not excessively muscated. A very lovely floral note, ylang-ylang, a hint of jasmine, and a touch of small-berried muscat blanc. Then, quite a bit of buttercream, pastries... Mouth: undoubtedly a bit too much on the palate, with a very pronounced sugary vinosity accompanied by notes of old cask. That said, the orange liqueur sensation comes to the rescue; I reckon it's the orange liqueur or the triple sec that truly deserve medals in San Francisco, at the IWSC, WWA, etc. At least an honorary medal for the entirety of their work as descriptors. Finish: medium length, sweet, on muscat raisins. Comments: not bad at all, but a tad excessive in the whisky/wine mix for me.
SGP:741 - 81 points. |
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Amrut 5 yo 2017/2022 'Ex-Sauternes Cask' (60%, OB, La Maison du Whisky, cask #8038, 2198 bottles)
I've often noticed that the somewhat exuberant nature of Amrut's malt allows it to hold its own with powerfully expressive wines. Like Sauternes, let's see how this goes... Colour: dark gold. Nose: the Australian Morris serves as a real springboard here, with more mango and orange at the forefront in this Amrut, followed by sémillon and honey-glazed ham. This ham is quite amusing and lovely - and unusual. But that might change with the first drop of water... With water: hints of clay and gunpowder, a tiny bit of hard-boiled egg, then aubergine and mead. Mouth (neat): utterly sinful, peach sorbet, pink banana, lemon fudge, cassata, oranges, and a slight sulphur touch that's not off-putting, almost the opposite. With water: orange blossom, cream eggs, peach liqueur. Finish: fairly long, with pink grapefruit taking charge. Honeyed aftertaste, without any sulphur at all. Comments: the problem with ex-sweet wine casks is that they are very fragile and thus require quite a bit of sulphur unless you refill them very quickly. Otherwise, they can start to spoil. This very, very lovely Amrut stayed in the safe zone, fortunately.
SGP:751 - 85 points. |
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St. Kilian 2019/2024 ‘Unpeated’ (59.4%, OB, Germany, single cask, ex Four Roses bourbon barrel)
St. Kilian is just never boring. How many distilleries can say that? Colour: very white white wine. Nose: I’m not sure I get the Four Roses but I really enjoy these fresh pastries, croissants, cakes, scones, shortbread, and then the heaps of apples and pears of various sorts that pour into your glass. Fresh and impeccable. With water: lemon macarons, amaretti, linden blossom tea. Nothing to discard. Mouth (neat): brilliant, Williams pear eau-de-vie, apple juice, acacia honey, a touch of lime. It's akin to an excellent cocktail, invigorating and refreshing. With water: still on quality eaux-de-vie, you’d even find some service tree berry and wild cherry. A hint of liquorice and gentian in the background. Finish: fairly long, fresh and lively, with apples reigning supreme. Comments: this is really good. Off you go, a lovely bronze at the WF Olympics!
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Brigantia 12 yo ‘Edition Constantia’ (45%, OB, Germany, 2022) 
A barley malt whisky from Lake Constance! Even if their ‘Classic’ was a bit tricky last year (WF 76), let’s go in with an open mind. Colour: gold. Nose: incredible, it’s ultra-floral, with geranium, rose, and acacia flower at first sniff. Once your olfactory bulb filters all that, we arrive at traditional pastries, streusels, kougelhopf, and then sourdough. Mouth: it’s a bit odd, with double cream, rennet, and unleavened bread at the start, then powdered pepper and 7Up. We almost ventured into Red Bull territory. Finish: medium, a bit dusty. Some good aspects (old apples) nonetheless. Comments: I’m not quite sure what to make of this baby. Maybe nothing, it has its good sides, others are a bit more problematic – but remember, it’s just one man’s opinion.
SGP:542 - 75 points. |
Speaking of Red Bull, would you believe I had a pack of six aluminium cans forgotten at the back of WF's cellar for two or three years? Well, the drink managed to corrode and then pierce the aluminium from the inside, leaking onto the shelf and causing the kind of damage you can imagine. Would never happen with whisky! The brand supports extreme sports, which is all well and good, but drinking Red Bull seems to be an extreme sport in itself. |
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Tennessee 10 yo 2011/2022 'Just Dram It' (47.9%, Whisky Picnic Bar Taiwan, USA, barrel, 102 bottles)
Generally speaking, these little darlings are George Dickel. Not bad news, if you ask me. Colour: gold. Nose: once again, one of those bourbons that flirts a bit with the world of sweet rum, thanks to the use of columns that somewhat soften the impact of the distillate and, by contrast, give more prominence to the casks. You know what I mean. It's beautifully vanilla-y, with a hint of nail polish, cherry, macadamia nuts, touches of pineapple and perhaps a bit of sesame. Mouth: ah, very good, more on the citrus side, although the wood is a tad too pronounced for me. The sweet woodruff shines here (have you ever tried woodruff syrup or liqueur?) Very nice balance, leaning slightly towards a hazelnut coffee akin to some of Starbucks. Finish: medium length, with notes of ripe banana and cinnamon. The woodruff lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: I find it really good.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
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August 11, 2024 |
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Malternative spirits: plenty of rums at an Olympic level
We initially wanted to taste cognacs and/or armagnacs this Sunday as part of our friendly little Olympics, but then we thought it would somewhat favour the French in the medal rankings. We have ethics, after all (oh, stop it, S.). So, we switched to rums from many very worthy small countries, starting with a little aperitif. |
Grammy Award for Best Latin Recording in 1980 |
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The Arcane 'Extraroma' (40%, OB, Mauritius, +/-2022)
Every time a brand adds a ‘The’ to their name, it gives us a good chuckle. Last year, we tried an Arcane 'Délicatissime' which turned out to be far too sweet for me (WF 64). Let's see if, at 40%, there truly is an extra aroma here, though we're not dreaming of anything extraordinary. Colour: gold. Nose: a pure blend of acacia honey, maple syrup, and cane syrup, with a hint of pineapple liqueur and young sweet muscat (like Frontignan). On paper and on the nose, it seems pleasant and, indeed, very aromatic. But we all know where the devil hides... Mouth: glycerine texture. A mix of the aforementioned syrups and liqueurs, with a slightly bitter caramel and vanillin base. Very sweet. Finish: short, sweet. Comments: to think this is pure cane juice at its core. Truth be told, it's not too bad, just far too sweet for my liking. Pass the ice bucket, please.
SGP: 730 - 70 points. |
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Sodade 'Cana Rocca Ouro Blanco' (43.1%, OB, Cape Verde, grogue, +/-2023)
Pure red cane juice, wild yeasts, very long fermentations, local pot still... We tried a Sodade 'Botanic Joao' last summer and it was fantastic (WF 88). This Ouro Blanco, which means white gold, has only aged for 6 months in barrels. Colour: pale gold (not white at all!). Nose: superb distillate, somewhat straddling the line between a fine light mezcal and a true rhum agricole. Plenty of dried leaves, a fair bit of tobacco, light earth, some little pink olives, a bit of seaweed, tiny citrus fruits (finger lemons), sea water. Superb nose, superb distillate. When’s the next boat to Cape Verde? Mouth: excuse me, but this is delicious! Lively yet civilised, salty, slightly smoky, mezcal-like again (there must be agaves in Cape Verde) and still with plenty of citrus, a touch of cucumber and gherkin, very light hints of compost and even peat. A bit like a light Talisker from the South if you will. Finish: not very long, ashier, slightly drying but not at all unpleasant. Comments: you don't see these grogues often, which is all the more reason to pounce when you do. I love this one as much as the 'Botanic', even though it's very different. Bang, a medal for Cape Verde.
SGP:552 - 88 points. |
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William Hinton 6 yo ‘Madeira Cask’ (42%, OB, Madeira, single cask, cask #313)
Here we are in Portugal. Proper agricole rhum distilled at Engenho Novo da Madeira, finished in local wine wood. It is said to contain a bit of 25-year-old rhum still produced in the old distillery. Colour: dark gold. Nose: quite a typical slightly metallic nose (metal polish, old copper) coupled with green walnut and light healthy mustardy touches, a bit in the manzanilla style. Hints of old leather. I get the impression this was a dry Madeira wine cask, at least, the nose is very successful. Mouth: a bit more dissonant, but not in an unpleasant way, quite the contrary. Still plenty of green walnut and very mild mustard, a touch earthy, then some raisins and a bit of black olive tapenade. A bit of grey pepper and mild tobacco. Touch of caramel and café latte. Finish: not eternal, but perhaps that's due to the 42% ABV. Same profile, a bit of bitter orange in the aftertaste. Comments: a fine achievement, very characterful, a rhum with a story to tell. A version at 46% would be top-notch.
SGP:462 - 86 points. |
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Foursquare 20 yo 2002/2023 (49%, The Colours of Rhum, Barbados, N°19, cask #4, 208 bottles)
Continental aging here, so probably fewer tropical fruits (makes sense, no? Course not). Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s beautiful! One gets the impression there's quite a bit of pot still, with a touch of tar, charcoal, even rubber and patching glue. Some tiny overripe bananas in the background, then a brand-new iPhone (which does nothing more than the previous one) just delivered by Amazon. iPhone unboxing, there’s a new descriptor, but I think we've used it before. Anyway, it’s not grand arôme, but it’s more grand arôme than most usual Foursquares. Mouth: magnificent lemon and lime, still a bit of tar, brine, liquorice, gentian, I almost mentioned olives but let’s not exaggerate. Very saline, in any case. Finish: long, still on the same saline and tarry notes. A touch of ink. Very fine Foursquare. Comments: so, pure pot still? Or at least a significantly higher proportion of pot still than usual? It almost seems like a low-marque HMPDN.
SGP:463 - 90 points. |
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Chairman’s Reserve 15 yo 2005/2022 (61.5%, OB, St. Lucia, GotA & RumX, bourbon, cask #06012000, 232 bottles)
Who are GotA and RumX? DJs? Rappers? Robots? Joking, they are all great people. GotA = Grape of the Art. A blend of 50% ex-John Dore and 50% ex-Vendôme pot stills. Colour: deep gold. Nose: these Chairman’s Reserves are really quite beautiful on the nose (we’ve finally figured out that Mister Chairman doesn’t keep anything for himself, really), with a rather sublime black olive nougat side. Do you know black olive nougat? Water should make it explode. With water: old cellar, carbon, old paint pots, pickled fruit, and even a curious little touch of black garlic. I adore black garlic. Mouth (neat): it's funny how we’re quite close to that Foursquare at this stage, but this Chairman’s Reserve bites and even slaps you in the face. Ultra-powerful, but otherwise glue, varnish, carbon, olives. With water: the same but even more saline. Anchovies in brine. Finish: long, softer than one would think now, in any case very balanced between the esters and the gentler fruits. Comments: strictly at the same very high level as the Foursquare, just a tad harsher at the end of the finish. I also think this is a real rum for malt enthusiasts.
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
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Cuban Rum 50 yo 1973/2024 (52%, Spheric Spirits, cask #2314302, 258 bottles)
There are some very lovely old independent Cubans around at the moment, best enjoyed while listening to old LPs of Irakere; by the way, this famous band was founded by the brilliant Chucho Valdés in… 1973. How curious. Colour: dark red amber. Nose: delicate, on polish, chocolate and ripe banana, touches of old tin box, a bit of brown sugar, very ripe apple... With water: rather new tyres, old wood and geranium flowers. An unlikely combo, but it works, believe it or not. Mouth (neat): a bit of orange liqueur and coffee at first, it might have been slightly boosted along the way, then some molasses, Jaffa cakes, fruitwood, pipe tobacco, some brandied cherries… With water: the rum still stands up to the wood, it’s superb. The pipe tobacco side, however, is becoming more prominent. I avoid mentioning Havana puros, that would be too obvious (too late, there it is). Finish: medium length, starting on coffee, roasted pecans and molasses. The chocolate and pecans truly take over in the aftertaste, but without any bitterness. Comments: you mustn't be afraid of a bit of slight bitterness from wood in your very old spirits. Especially if the cask spent 50 years in Cuba, but is that even possible? Anyway, here’s a strike of 90.
SGP:361 - 90 points. |
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Trinidad Distillers Limited 15 yo 2008/2024 (64.4%, Spiritori #1, Trinidad, cask #243, 335 bottles)
Will this little TDL, aka Trinidad Distillers Limited, snag another gold medal? It spent 11 years in the tropics, the rest in Europe. Colour: dark gold. Nose: a bit blocked by the high ABV, but you can detect putty and fresh paint. I’m sure everything will change once we add some water. With water: not really the explosion of exotic fruits we were expecting, rather new pinewood, varnishes, brand new rubber boots, pine needles, and only in the background, the proverbial very ripe mangoes, bananas, and strawberries. Mouth (neat): very powerful. Alas, our lawyer is on the golf course again and his iPhone seems to be off or out of battery. Menthol, pine resin, terpenes, paints… With water: here come the fruits, but also quite a bit of green pepper. Certainly not a TDL for the drawing-room that would instantly please everyone. Finish: very long, woody, on quite extreme menthol, extreme salmiak, and equally extreme pine resin. Comments: an extreme TDL that shakes you up a bit. For lovers of strong sensations. I mean extreme sensations.
SGP:472 - 87 points. |
Since we are in Trinidad & Tobago... |
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Caroni 25 yo 1999/2024 (57.2%, Jean Boyer, Rum Bullion, Trinidad, cask #198)
Jean Boyer, that venerable French house, a true pioneer of world spirits, and a favourite of Whiskyfun. Jean Marie in the heavens, you are always remembered! Colour: deep gold. Nose: immediately curry, soot, rubber, paint, strong liquorice, and thuja wood. Extremely Caroni, no literature needed (literature, S.??). With water: sublime now! Turpentine, linseed oil, artist's studio, modelling clay, drawing gum, cut cactus, newspapers of the day... Mouth (neat): like pliers grabbing your tongue, between ultimate liquorice and oak extracts. Overripe bananas and mangoes are laughing in the background. With water: much better, as expected. Ripe bananas, prickly pears, blackcurrants, liquorice, spruce, absinthe... Swiss absinthe from Val de Travers, of course. Finish: very long, ultra-dry. Do you love salty liquorice as much as I do? You can't find it here, luckily I pass through Schiphol now and then to stock up. Comments: superb Caroni, certainly ultra-dry, but not overly woody. A blade.
SGP:262 - 90 points. |
Right, one last Trinidadian... |
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Caroni 24 yo 1998/2023 ‘Mars’ (61.1%, Jack Tar, Cosmic Series, cask #2185, 195 bottles)
Said to be ‘extra-terrestrial’, and so be it. Also mentioned as a ‘truly men’s strong spirit’, which isn’t quite in the spirit of the Paris Olympics, is it? Jolly good fun, nonetheless, and our hopes are as high as the Olympic flame. All right then… Colour: deep gold. Nose: classic heavy Caroni, apparently, no deviations, no variations, no excessive wood intervention, it seems to be pure and precise Caroni. Linseed oil, mango and peach peelings, mastic, hairspray, three dozen apples, two olives, pine branches (feels like Christmas already) and a marrow bone... With water: the famous Islay rum side. They say they're making rum at Port Ellen now, and apparently, it’s very good. We'll see about that soon... Mouth (neat): taut as a bow string, lemony and resinous, with cedar and thuja wood, plus a few drops of superb kirsch. Kirsch is the seminal spirit that can be either orgasmic or miserable, did you know? With water: ah, perfect. Everything falls into place, and although the wood shows its presence after all these years, there's no real imbalance. Lemon, olives, smoke, oysters, green apples, green pepper. Hats off. Finish: very long but woodier. A tad harsh, but that’s nit-picking. Comments: it narrowly misses 91 points, due to the very coniferous wood starting to interfere between the sublime distillate and you. But no worries.
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
Well, we'd still like to snag a 91, wouldn't we? Maybe through an Uitvlugt? |
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Uitvlugt 31 yo 1990/2022 (56.2%, Silver Seal, Guyana)
Well, I don’t reckon we need to go over the whole history of Uitvlugt again, do we? As for the stills, it’s a bit tricky since they were having several at that time. Without specific details or marques, I suppose we can’t really know, so we’ll just have to taste this old baby without any preconceptions... Colour: gold. Nose: perfect, ultra-precise, greatly simple, with notes of hay and bagasse. In the background, there’s very ripe pineapple, banana skins, dried jujube, and a few whelks. Frankly, it’s brilliant. I also get the impression that these old Demeraras, whether aged in the tropics or on the continent, mature much better than the Caronis, but please don’t quote me on that. With water: oh, old varnishes, anti-rust paint, anchovies in their tin, olive rings and... hang on, it’s a pizza. A real one, an Italian pizza. Mouth (neat): superlatively grand. Salted lemon, ashes, paraffin, capers, ink, carbon, bitter and salted almonds... I love it. Gold medal, just saying. With water: the anchovies are back, with lemon, tobacco ashes and olive oil. Unbeatable. Finish: long and elegant. Smoked oysters and grapefruit. Comments: I think for this bottle and a few others, the bottlers (are you listening?) should change their brand from Silver Seal to Golden Seal. Apologies, relating to what we said at the beginning of this modest session, it should be The Golden Seal. No, platinum is too much. You might say there are also those rare metals used in Tesla batteries and others. The Lithium Seal?
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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August 9, 2024 |
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The Olympic Sessions, Day 12 (France, Spain, Korea, England, Germany, America) |
We still have many 'world' whiskies to taste, which is a pleasure, given how much they have improved in recent years. Honestly, ten years ago, we would have approached this with reluctance, or perhaps we simply wouldn’t have dared to do such series... Right, let’s head back to France…
Picture WF Archive, Jerez, 2017. No puns will be tolerated. |
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Hériose ‘Le Petit Tourbé’ (46%, OB, France, 2022)
We sampled the ‘classic’ version of this little Cognac whisky two years ago, and it was very pleasant in our opinion (WF 83). These Hériose are crafted by Maison Boinaud in Angeac, known for their De Luze cognacs. This ‘wee peater’ isn’t distilled from peated malt; it’s the classic version simply finished in an ex-peater cask, as is increasingly common in Scotland too. Colour: white wine. Nose: classic notes of chalk, green apple, lemon, and cold ashes (fireplace). A few drops of limoncello – do they also make limoncello at Maison Boinaud? Mouth: a lovely in-cask blend, sharp, lively, fresh, quite peaty rather than merely lightly flavoured. Touches of radish, horseradish, more lemon, and a few pine needles chewed absentmindedly (who hasn’t done that during a wee walk in the woods?) Good body. Finish: rather long, quite sharp, with more pepper, grapefruit, ash, cinchona, and a garden bonfire sensation... Comments: very nice. The peat takes over quickly, as we know it always does. This rather lovely concoction could easily replace gin in cocktails. Well, I think so.
SGP:465 - 84 points. |
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Sherishor 12 yo (45%, OB, Spain, ‘pure malt whisky’, +/-2024)
The return of the pure malts! According to the label, this brew is ‘born in Scotland, refined in Spain’ and ‘triple matured in real old sherry casks’. This is interesting as it also highlights the fact that perhaps more than 99% of whiskies aged or finished in ‘sherry casks’ are actually only in casks specifically made and treated for whisky, i.e., seasoned with basic sherry. Nothing to do with real solera butts, and I know some in Spain consider these not even real sherry casks. Well, we’ve been debating this for years... Anyway, here we have undisclosed Scotch malt aged 3 years in bourbon in Scotland, then 9 years in solera butts in Andalusia. Colour: amber. Nose: it’s true, we’re close to an old sherry, oloroso or amontillado type, and it reminds us a bit of the old Speysides our Italian friends were having, the old Mortlachs, Linkwoods, Macallans, etc., from Sestante or Intertrade for example. So, it’s rather more vinous than modern sherried malts, but also richer and perhaps more complex. Lots of dried figs and dates with toffee, and strictly no even remotely astringent woodiness, unlike in many contemporary finishings. I like it a lot so far. Mouth: a bit of pepper and grated lemon peel right away, which is quite surprising, then bitter orange liqueur, chocolate, toffee, roasted peanuts, dried pear... It’s really different without being too different, and excellent for me. Finish: chocolate bars with coffee and caramelised peanuts. Comments: it’s said that each real solera butts do their own thing and that it’s hard to maintain a consistent profile in your whisky, batch after batch. In any case, I find this Sherishor excellent, a wonderful discovery.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
Let's head to South Korea... |
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Kimshangsoo Single Cask (52.1%, OB, Korea, Artist Edition, 1st fill European oloroso hogshead, 312 bottles, 2023)
A rather brilliant micro-distillery that only produces a few casks per year. Everything we've tasted so far has always been excellent. Colour: gold. Nose: quite different from previous ones, fresher, less massive, with touches of rainwater in a big city, citron juice, lemon balm, and basil water, with a hint of lemon mint... It's quite singular, especially as it develops notes of sake, fresh concrete, old cellar, with touches of oyster mushrooms and very old sweet wine. Think at least fifty years in the bottle (we've just tasted a very old muscat from Massandra which was a bit like this). Mouth: richer on the palate, more marked by sherry, walnut wine, black pepper, chestnut honey, a slight charred edge, with bitter chocolate, tar, and charcoal. Finish: long and very peppery, with an increasingly pronounced umami aspect. Some orange liqueur comes to sign it all off and put things back in their place. Comments: there's a bit of Jackson Pollock art about it. The kind you either love or don't; we firmly fall into the first category.
SGP:563 - 89 points. |
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Westward ‘Cask Strength 125 Proof’ (62.5%, OB, USA, +/-2023)
Isn’t it all happening in the West of the good US of A lately? I mean, in terms of American malt whisky? Colour: full gold. Nose: the traditional mango + banana duo, usually from deep charring, so I suppose that's it. Then vanilla, leaves and stems, eucalyptus, some whiffs of patchouli and rose petals and, most importantly, 62.5%. Ahem, with water: not much change except for some honeyed touches and quality green tea. Mouth (neat): even more mangoes and bananas, to the point where there's more than in a fruit salad containing only mangoes and bananas. You see. Some green pepper in the background. And 62.5%. With water: very fruity, almost explosively so. Lovely little mild curry and cinnamon cake, plus pink pepper. Finish: long but soft and still very fruity. Comments: an iron fist in a velvet glove unless it’s the other way around. Very seductive, very good. But at 62.5%, handle with care, I’d say. Much fruitier than other expressions.
SGP:751 - 87 points. |
Since we're dealing with explosive degrees... |
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Filey Bay 2016/2021 (63.1%, OB, England, oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #146, 271 bottles)
We find ourselves back in Yorkshire. Colour: deep amber. Nose: fumes, gunpowder, bitter chocolate, black truffles, more chocolate, old walnuts, and 63.1% vol. With water: a bit of rosehip tea and still those massive doses of chocolate. The gunpowder is rather subdued now. Mouth (neat): it's punchy but seems very good, even if it’s quite fiery indeed. Chocolate with mint and rose. Does that exist? With water: blood orange comes to the fore, but the base remains very chocolatey. To be honest, this chocolate and citrus combination is a great classic that absolutely always works. Finish: very long but softer, with pepper under control this time, as well as pipe tobacco not too much under control. A peppery aftertaste and quite pleasantly bitter, although a bit drying. Also, a touch of strawberry liqueur, just a hint. Comments: we are lucky today; here is another excellent world whisky.
SGP:652 - 87 points. |
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The Westfalian 2012/2024 'Single Grain' (62.5%, OB, Germany, ex-Ben Nevis sherry hogshead, cask #TW8, 266 bottles)
It's a topsy-turvy world. A grain whisky, thus a relatively light spirit, aged in a cask that once held one of Scotland's heftiest malts. That's amusing, unless it was Ben Nevis 'single grain,' but I strongly doubt it as they stopped their column towards the late 1970s at Fort William if I recall correctly. Well, the few Ben Nevis grains I've tasted (James MacArthur, for example) weren't really that great, but I digress again... Colour: amber. Nose: it remains a grain whisky, with sweet corn and nougat, but I think the BN has added some structure, at least it seems so. But again, 62.5%... It's a constant assault at WF HQ at the moment! With water: macaroons, popcorn, maple syrup, plus touches of fermented soy that must come from the BN. Mouth (neat): it tastes like rum. I repeat, it tastes like rum, notably a fairly famous Barbadian rum that isn't Mount Gay. But 62.5%. With water: it swims extremely well, as well as Mark Spitz. Correction, Michael Phelps. Correction, Léon Marchand. We're not going back as far as Johnny Weissmuller, rest assured. This rumsky or whiskum is excellent, but likely very tricky in a blind tasting. Finish: long for a grain, sweet but with lemony touches, and almost very slightly maritime. That's definitely the BN, it can't be Westphalia. Comments: really amusing this single grain. And very, very good, while being a bit bewildering.
SGP:631 - 87 points. |
A nice array of countries today. Shall we perhaps continue during the Paralympic Games, what do you think? |
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August 8, 2024 |
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The Olympic Sessions,
Day 11
For once, we're going from somewhere else. Oh, look, it's been so long since we've tasted this little one...
(Jack Daniel's magazine ad, circa 1998. Damn right! Except maybe at the Olympics.)
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Jack Daniel's 'Old No.7' (40%, OB, USA, Tennessee Whiskey, +/-2024)
Each time I see a bottle, I can’t help but think of Keith Richards, and wonder if he couldn’t afford something a bit better. Surely, he must have had contracts, dear Keef… Colour: gold. Nose: not much going on, but nothing offensive either. Hints of coconut, nougat, brioche, popcorn, vanilla, and pancake syrup. It's very mild. Mouth: quite drinkable, as they say in wine. Caramel, popcorn, touches of caramel and nougat, a slight hint of violet liqueur, and a very light structure. The caramel aspect builds up but, in the end, it all remains drinkable. Finish: rather short and more on the plank, alas. Just a bad moment to get through. The aftertaste is somewhat cloying. Comments: it’s not “good,” but I don’t think it’s the absolute horror some occasionally mention.
SGP:730 - 72 points. |
In the same vein, while we’re at it… |
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Jameson (40%, OB, Irish blend, +/-2024) 
The last time we tasted this entry-level bottling was in 2011 (I won’t mention the score). Since then, we've only sampled older bottles of Jameson’s or more prestigious versions, sometimes excellent. Colour: pale gold. Nose: nothing, absolutely nothing, there is no nose. Perhaps a hint of grass. They could call this cuvée ‘the Cuvée of the Sphinx’. Mouth: better than the nose, of course, but more in the style of a Havana Club or Bacardi. Sugar syrup, vanilla, tea, hay, ethanol. If you could pass me some ice cubes, that would be nice... Finish: what finish? Joking aside, you find cheap supermarket black tea and sugarcane syrup. Comments: does anyone drink this little Jameson without ice, orange juice, Coca-Cola, ginger tonic or just Perrier? It’s not totally catastrophic, but it’s a rather empty spirit. By the way, they say 'triple distilled' on the label, which might mean there’s no grain, at least nothing distilled continuously. Bizarre.
SGP:320 - 60 points. |
Let's be serious, this is Whiskyfun after all... |
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The Wiseman (45.4%, OB, USA, Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey, +/-2023)
This by Kentucky Owl. Love this line on the label: ‘Guided by wisdom and crafted with knowledge’. Is the brand owned by some politicians? Also love the 1910-style label and the fact that this baby was made from four Kentucky Straight Bourbons. Colour: gold. Nose: not bad at all, not a bourbon ooh-ha, we're rather on liquorice and damp earth, even mint leaves and peaches that are very, very, but very ripe indeed. Quite ‘wise’ in effect. Also some light tobacco touches and a hint of leather. Mouth: it's good, easy, slightly sweet, with jams, corn syrup, then peanut butter and finally some slightly drying spices around cinnamon. Quite classic. Finish: rather short, rather honeyed, with touches of fruity rye. Comments: very nice, really does the job. Very ‘wise’, so a bit the opposite of us at WF.
SGP:640 - 82 points. |
We're jumping from one style to another... |
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Cotswolds 5 yo 2016/2023 (62.4%, OB, New Vibrations LMDW, England, 2nd-fill bourbon barrel, cask #932, 285 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: highly alcoholic and brimming with rose petals and orange blossom water, one might think we’re in a safe place in the Middle east. Quick, some water... With water: all sorts of brioche from every corner of the globe. Mouth (neat): very creamy, ultra-fruity, with the famous mango-banana combination. It’s reminiscent of virgin US oak. Well, it’s very good... With water: white chocolate, akin to white Toblerone. A small-size model will suffice. Finish: good length, very fruity, very modern. Pink grapefruit in the aftertaste. Comments: not much to say, it’s all about the wood and mastery of molecules. It’s a marvellous whisky, no doubt, I just hope the entire planet doesn’t start making the same bourbonised (yet good) whiskies.
SGP:641 - 84 points. |
Let's return to Japan, via Hong Kong... |
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Mars Tsunuki 6 yo 2017/2024 ‘Yakushima Aging’ (58%, OB, Japan, for Tiffany’s New York Bar and AF Trade, sherry hogshead, cask #2094, 252 bottles)
Ah, here we have the renowned maturation on Yakushima Island, where the climate is decidedly warmer. The whisky itself utilises barley peated to 50ppm. Colour: amber. Nose: I daresay the notion of umami was conceived for this whisky. Exhaust fumes, soy sauce, fine chocolate, tar, glutamate, sauna oils, overripe raspberries, miso, black and white truffles... It veers off in multiple directions yet maintains a certain ‘oneness’, akin to a fine old Pomerol, if you will. With water: aged balsamic from Modena, black earth (basalt), pumpernickel, and virgin wool... Mouth (neat): a whisky that delivers three slaps before politely asking you to add water. And we comply. With water: an astounding arrival of bergamots and kumquats cloaked in honey and liquid caramel. An indulgence. Finish: not eternal, but splendidly on prunes and large raisins, even a touch of rustic Armagnac. Though, are not all Armagnacs rustic? Comments: dare I say, we prefer the bourbon or refill versions, yet this one comes very, very close. A rather mad Tsunuki, overall.
SGP:641 - 88 points. |
I'm not a big fan of the widespread bourbonisation of malt whiskies, yet it's what I prefer. Yes, it's a bit complicated, let’s say I prefer refill... |
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Kavalan 2014/2024 (61%, OB for Malt, Grain & Cane, Port, cask #O140201019A, 186 bottles)
We’re in Singapore this time. Bad news, this is Port. Good news, Kavalan usually manage to make Port not too Porty (no dull red berry liqueurs in our whiskies!) Colour: red amber. Nose: bags of roasted nuts, some cigars, some charcoal, deep-charred hamburgers, prunes, black raisins, black nougat, miso and… a lot of alcohol. So: with water: potting soil, leather polish, pumpernickel, tamarind jam… Mouth (neat): heavy rums and cognacs, heavier brandies de Jerez (without the sugar they usually add) and fifty tons of bitter chocolate. Corinth raisins as the foundation. With water: we’ve almost recreated some lovely heavy/deep sweet wine. You can reduce it a lot while it wouldn’t falter and wouldn’t give up. Finish: long, sweet, liqueury and extremely chocolaty. Comments: some kind of chocolate-and-raisins concentrate, not sure the base distillate is of any importance (whisky, rum, brandy…) All the sliders are almost at max, Nigel.
SGP:762- 87 points. |
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August 7, 2024 |
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The Olympic Sessions, Day 10
Starting from, you may have guessed it…
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Le Breuil 2020 (50.8%, Version Française, LMDW, golden promise, 270 bottles)
Glad to see some proper Golden Promise, the variety of barley that earned Macallan its reputation. They certainly emphasised its use (along with sherry casks, of course). Le Breuil/Château du Breuil aka La Spiriterie Française are primarily Calvados distillers from Pays d’Auge. They appear to have a strong commitment towards other spirits, whisky included. Colour: white wine. Nose: naturally, it’s hard to miss the sliced apple and pear, but what really stands out is the freshly cut hay, which we absolutely adore, followed by blue-green tea (super oolong), and a hint of quince and candle wax. It’s fresh, lovely, and quite close to nature. With water: lots of wheat flour and sourdough. Mouth: peat emerges, with seaweed and lemon. It’s an entirely different whisky than on the nose, though the apple remains present. Some slightly bitter green spices, cardamom, green pepper… With water: lovely peat, chiselled, precise, simple. Nothing to fault. Green lemon juice. Finish: fairly long, just tense enough, with a salty aftertaste. Vive la Normandie! Comments: significantly superior to a previous Version Française, a 2017. But that’s just a personal opinion, as always. Very charming little whisky, with a distinct identity, though not easy to define.
SGP:464 - 85 points. |
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Fary Lochan 2017/2022 ‘Rum Edition #03’ (48.5%, OB, Denmark, 333 bottles)
From some rum barrel. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: there’s that amusing ‘dirty’, chalky, and fermentative side, with thick cream, mashed potatoes, then baker’s yeast and a good Belgian beer, white but vigorous. The usual vanilla and some citrus candies come to complete the profile before more rum shows up without becoming a troublemaker. Mouth: I really like this blend of ink, very artisanal beer, plaster, sourdough bread, lemon, and perhaps sugar cane. It’s all melded together, you won’t say ‘oh, rum!’ Some bitter almonds and fresh wood add a slightly rough edge in the mouth. Finish: long, fermenting, lemony, with pleasant bitter notes quite present. It’s closer to fresh barley. Comments: there’s an artisanal quality I quite like, and above all, some personality.
SGP:561 - 84 points. |
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Beverbach ‘Mizunara Cask Finish’ (43%, OB, Germany, +/-2023)
From Hardenberg Distillery – established 1700, mind you! Even our German friends are getting into mizunara. You might say it's about the only way to impart a hint of Japanness to your whisky, apart from perhaps paying homage to artists like Kurosawa, Mishima, Sakamoto, Yamash’ta, Fujita, etc. I’d go for that. Colour: white wine. Nose: it's direct, simple but pretty, with cereals, bread, pastries, apples, and a hint of pine resin. Works. Mouth: perhaps more unusual, sweet and spicy, leaning a bit towards pine bud liqueur at times, the rest being more about orange peel and marmalade. Not bad at all, despite the low alcohol content. Finish: of medium length, still a bit sweet (like the apple liqueur they make in Spain) but not excessively so. Comments: not bad at all, this little samurai crafted near Göttingen, not far from Kassel. A form of contemporary art, in a way. We’ll be tasting more Beverbach, I believe...
SGP:651 - 82 points. |
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Bikkun (46%, OB, Spain, blended malt, +/-2022)
Best Spanish Blended Malt at the World Whisky Awards, how fantastic! I love these categories... There's malt from Basque Moonshiners in it, aged in Rioja casks (naturally). They seem to be steering a bit this blended malt, it appears. Colour: white wine. Nose: not bad! There's a lovely peat, which internationalises any whisky. Damp earth, porridge, peat, sourdough, green clay, bread dough, drops of mint and eucalyptus essence... All is well. Mouth: but yes, it's not bad at all, Scottish in style, very smoky, savoury, then with raisins and a bit of mead. Nice balance, nothing to fault, it's well constructed. Finish: medium length, very pleasant, mint, ashes, and honey, which works very well. A drop of anisette and wild strawberry in the aftertaste. Comments: and I, who hesitated for a long time to taste this seemingly odd baby. But it's well done, viva the Basque Country! Not sure it's truly fully Spanish though.
SGP:564 - 84 points. |
A short trip to Ireland (while staying in Spain) ... |
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Bushmills 10 yo ‘Vino Dulce Reserve’ (43%, OB, Ireland, single malt, +/-2024)
A brand new expression of Bushmills, aged in bourbon and sherry, then finished in vino dulce. Now which vino dulce? They make some almost everywhere in Spain, from Catalunya to Malaga and indeed, Jerez. Should be PX… And we love Bushmills. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s more austere at the beginning than I would have thought, which is not bad news at all. Let’s not exaggerate, there’s still the traditional combination of tropical fruits, bananas at the forefront, and ripe apples covered in wildflower honey. Caramel and nougat follow, and finally, the raisins we were expecting: currants, muscat, sultanas... We’re definitely leaning towards Malaga. Mouth: this time the sweet wine takes the lead and doesn’t seem to let go. Consequently, it’s a bit like fortified wine, such as Pineau des Charentes or a splash of Champagne ratafia. And between us, it’s very good, rich but balanced... Finish: medium length, very sweet, honeyed, muscaty. Comments: if you fancy a wine with your dessert but prefer whisky, here’s the solution. It should be splendid over good vanilla ice cream. What’s also amusing is the exotic fruits of Bushmills singing in the background, a bit like Roxy Music’s backing singers (what?) I rather like that slightly decadent touch.
SGP:740 - 85 points. |
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Wild Turkey ‘101’ (50.5%, OB, USA, OB, Kentucky straight bourbon, +/-2024)
The last time we sampled this expression was in 2013, and it still had the old label. It was a bit ‘plankish’ (overoaked), but things might have changed a lot since then. Colour: deep gold. Nose: there’s still that cedar and balsa wood side, but the fruity varnish and encaustic touches smooth things out, while a bit of ripe apricot and bruised apples add some more fruitiness. A hint of overripe fruits that I like, bringing a slight tropical aspect to the whole. In short, it’s simple but solid. Vanilla and popcorn join in later. With water: heading towards the classic, pancakes, maple syrup, cinnamon cake, coriander seeds… Mouth (neat): full-on lavender, rye, violet, liquorice, geranium, and even juniper. Plenty of honey and vanilla follow. With water: frankly, it’s very good. Even the water, which should bring out the ‘nasty tannins’, doesn’t. Finish: same. Comments: they must have tweaked the recipe a bit. Or perhaps they realised that, like in wine, ‘less wood is the way’. Very good bourbon at a very good price (especially when compared to an equivalent malt whisky).
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
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August 6, 2024 |
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The Olympics, Day 9
We’re simply going on and on.
(Old ad for Schinkenhäger from Westfalen)
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Alfred Giraud ‘Une Odyssée’ (52.9%, OB, France, Collection Singulière, cognac cask, 459 bottles)
Alfred Giraud’s ‘Horizon’ was very good the other day. This one’s meant to be a crown jewel, aged in an old cognac cask. Let’s see if the crow lives up to its plumage… Colour: gold. Nose: we find the relative softness of a fine cognac, very ripe peaches, whiffs of honeysuckle and orange blossom, brioche and croissants, some notes of damp earth, chestnut honey... Between us, it can only be young whisky, but the maturation seems to have been done with taste. With water: orange cake straight from the oven, just cooled. Mouth (neat): powerful and honeyed. Mead, old triple sec, old Pineau des Charentes, ‘pommes tapées’ (a thing they make in the Loire, dealing with apples as our Austrian friends deal with their schnitzels – ha). With water: it’s really very good, with a clear impact from the cask but entirely balanced, leading towards orange blossom honey. There must be some sorcery in all this. Finish: of medium length, soft, while the citrus and marmalades have taken over. That’s always good news. Comments: a NAS bottle but an extremely high price, especially for a ‘rest of the world’ whisky, so the contents had to be top-notch. They are – and it’s a mystery. Seriously, it looks like a Glenmorangie from the 1970s or 1980s.
SGP: 641 - 89 points. |
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Spirit Thief ‘American Oak Cabernet and Bourbon’ (48.3%, OB, Australia, Curated Wine Barrel Collection, +/-2023)
We’re in Tasmania again. Worldwide, distillers are aligning or building their ranges according to the wines previously contained in the casks they use (or with which the casks were seasoned), which is quite a strong trend. PX, cabernet, merlot, sauternes, shiraz, Bordeaux, sangiovese, champagne, whatever. Right, not champagne. We’re not big fans, as you might know, but there can be some pleasant surprises. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s not bad! Soft beer, crepes, very ripe apples, and vanilla cake, without any major cabernet impact (they don’t say, but I imagine it was cabernet sauvignon, and not cabernet franc?) Mouth: really, it’s not bad at all, in any case much better than Spirit Thief’s ‘Distiller's Cabernet Select’ in my humble opinion (WF 76). Herbal teas, cherries, clafoutis, candied bell pepper, tobacco… The green tea and peppery wood notes then take more prominence, but it stays balanced. Finish: medium length, woody spices, plus some honey. Do they have manuka in Tasmania? Tasmanian pepper honey? The aftertaste leans more towards bell pepper and green pepper. Comments: very nice for a wine-like whisky!
SGP: 551 - 83 points. |
I don't know how whisky makers are going to manage if winemakers increasingly start using clay, cement, concrete, sandstone, etc. Anyway. |
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The Westfalian ‘Masterpiece Peated’ (64.1%, OB, Germany, ex-Macallan sherry hogshead, cask #TW74, 238 bottles)
Imagine owning your own distillery whilst practising for many years the venerable profession of independent bottler of grand Scotch whiskies. What would you do with all your empty casks? Probably exactly what we’re about to taste now. Colour: dark honey. Nose: to be honest, we haven’t tasted the peat + Macallan combination since the last vintages from the 1940s we had in our glasses. But to be even more honest (it’s getting fishy, S.), this is closer to a kind of young Laphroaig super-sherry for Italy, circa 1985. Basalt, soot, coal dust, mushrooms, old paint pots, linoleum, leather, roasted chestnuts, cigars, etc. It’s already quite expressive at 64% vol.! With water: putty and anti-rust paint, plus burnt cake straight from the oven. Mouth (neat): it’s a bit of a head-ripper, but all that leather and pepper mixed with tobacco works well. Even if it’s a bit extreme. With water: much fruitier, with loads of sour cherries and plenty of bell pepper. Lots of smoked meats and juniper, à la Steinhäger (big in old Alsace). And Schinkenhäger while we’re at it, as it also hails from Westphalia. Finish: long. Bitter oranges and dark chocolate. Comments: you probably shouldn’t taste this little monster near an open flame. It’s extreme and above all, anti-boring in these times when so many whiskies are looking and tasting more and more alike.
SGP: 375 - 87 points. |
How are we going to get over that?... |
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Westward ‘Belgian Ardennes Trappist Ale’ (45%vol, OB, USA, Trappist ale cask, Westward Club, 2021)
Here we are in Portland, Oregon. This bottle appears extremely improbable and certainly not planet-compatible (Belgium <-> Oregon), but we’ve already tasted some excellent Starward. And we adore that headline on their website: ‘A Legacy that Spans Two Decades’. Wow! Colour: rich gold. Nose: crikey, but it works! Autumn leaves, patchouli, dried flowers, mushrooms (morels), Bolognese sauce, mead, gingerbread, and indeed, slightly oily Belgian beers. Mouth: starts on bitter oranges, marmalade, then gentle curries, Indonesian sauces (kecap manis, satay), even peanut butter. It’s almost sweet, could that come from the famous Trappist beer? Finish: quite long, spicy, you might think you could pour this over your wok like soy sauce. I know, we’re far from Belgium. Chocolate, mole sauce, gingerbread... Comments: lots of fun, even if it’s a bit ‘too much’ for me. Amen.
SGP:661 - 82 points. |
Since we're in America, let's move from Portland to Seattle... |
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Copperworks 3 yo 2018/2022 (56.8%, Whisky-Facile, USA, Black Cat Series, virgin oak, cask #287, 239 bottles)
Black cat series? One of WF’s mousers, P’tit Noir, is all black, so we applaud! Having only sampled one Copperworks thus far (Boutique-y), let’s proceed with caution. But kudos for not going the NAS route. And for the lovely label that reminds me of a Mahavishnu Orchestra album cover. Or was it Weather Report... Colour: full gold. Nose: delightful nougat, honey, maple syrup, pancake sauce, white chocolate… With water: honey upon honey upon honey. Save the bees! Mouth (neat): excellent, with mango from the virgin oak (yes indeed), vanilla, passion fruit jam, wildflower honey, tutti-frutti eau-de-vie… With water: by Jove, it’s perfect. Passion fruit ice cream, mango syrup, guava juice, acacia honey… Finish: medium length, very smooth, creamy, fruity, with sorbets. Comments: a sin. Yes, it’s probably a sin, but we’re careful about what we say in France these days, no more mentioning any imaginary friends of our dear comrades from around the world. Even Dionysus, shh.
SGP:741 - 88 points. |
Let's go to Sweden in honour of Miss Sjoestroem. Oops… |
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Sweden Rock Spirits (44.7%, OB, USA, Kentucky bourbon, +/-2023) 
I haven't the foggiest what this exactly is, apart from the fact that it's not Swedish. Not even remotely. The label says 'Fill Your Head With Rock'. All right. Colour: gold. Nose: not much going on. Some sawdust, some vanilla. Not Swedish in the slightest. Mouth: a bit better but still weak, overly influenced by woody spices, becoming quite bitter. Not very good. Finish: medium length, drying, simple. Powdered clove. Comments: if I were a Swedish distiller, I'd sue these people immediately. Especially if I were a Swedish distiller who also happened to be a lawyer. Well, it's not entirely dreadful, but it remains a rather poor plank juice. Kentucky bourbon, really?
SGP:231 – 49 points.
PS: I know Sweden Rock is probably an existing place somewhere in Kentucky, I was just trying to joke a bit to make up for the weakness of this very small bourbon. |
Help! We're now going to have a little glass of Belarusian vodka. Of course not... |
We had no idea where we were going with this slightly crazy idea of hosting these very modest Personal World Whisky Olympiads, but given how things have turned out and the enjoyment we're getting from it, we're going to adapt the 'medal' system and make it a bit more coherent, if you don't mind... Well, hopefully. |
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August 5, 2024 |
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The Olympics, Day 8
We continue our little Olympic sessions, with whiskies from quite different nations. For now, the Japanese reign supreme, especially since the Scots are out of the competition this time. You see, they usually take up more than two-thirds of the space on this miserable little website. We're starting with France once again...
Tha aptly named French actress Carole Bouquet with a bottle of her Passito di Pantelleria 'Sangue d'Oro' (BestIlmage)
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Wambrechies 2016 'Brut de Fût' (54.3%, OB, France, +/-2024)
We tasted a very good Wambrechies aka Claeyssens a few weeks ago. They were one of the pioneers of whisky in France (1998) but are also famous for their French genièvre, somewhat like the excellent Zuidam in the Netherlands. They are located near Lille. Colour: white wine. Nose: very precise, with strong notes of fresh bread and beer, accompanied by subtle hints of anise and mustard, and the unavoidable crème anglaise. It's pure and delightful, doing the job splendidly. With water: add apple tarte topped with a touch of honey and cinnamon. Mouth (neat): similar profile, pure and focused on cereals, with a few lemony notes and a hint of grass (grass juice, as was the trend in the 1980s, believed to be very healthy). A few notes of pear eau-de-vie. With water: a bit tighter, which is excellent. Of course, there's a touch of juniper spirit, but that's likely our minds playing tricks on us. Finish: medium length, still on bread, spices, apples, and pears. Comments: for me, it's nearly on par with the excellent Wambrechies 'Madeira'.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Filey Bay 'Port Finish – Batch 1' (46%, OB, England, ex-bourbon + ruby Port, 3,300 bottles, 2022)
One might wonder what would become of whiskies from Great Britain, including Scotland, without the PX and the Port, wouldn't they? We are in Yorkshire. We had a very amusing – and good – 'Porter cask' in May (WF 85). Grain & grain, logically. This has spent 22 months in Port casks. Colour: gold. Nose: good news, the Port is discreet, you don't find bags of blackcurrants and raspberries, rather some touches of raisins and goji berries atop an orange cake. Or something like that. Mouth: a bit more 'Port', crushed strawberries and pepper, blueberry liqueur, grenadine... Entering the world of whisky + wine blending, but it's not unpleasant at all, just slightly offbeat, for me. Finish: medium length, similar flavours, plus some bud notes. Comments: thanks to these whiskies, at the end of a meal, you can ask your guests "whisky, port, or both at the same time?" We'll soon have a much greater Filey Bay, having said that.
SGP: 741 - 80 points. |
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Kyrö 'Malt Rye' (47.2%, OB, Finland, +/-2023)
This is 100% malted rye. It's becoming at tad more common in Europe, or rather it’s getting less rare and at Château WF, we're delighted. With few exceptions, we love it. Colour: gold. Nose: admirably floral, with essences of barks and fruits of all kinds. There's a touch of lavender and juniper, followed by apricot and smoked sesame seeds. Not to mention a 10-kilo bag of speculoos. Okay, 5 kilos... I love this nose, let's hope the palate... Mouth: well yes. It's certainly a bit extreme on the spices and barks, but I think that's exactly what we love in these ‘deviant’ drams. Plenty of small citrus fruits, lavender again, lots of thyme and rosemary, and even a bit of coriander (ground seeds). Yet, it remains unmistakably whisky. Finish: very long and spicy, with the usual soapy touches of this kind, which we quite like, then a lavender + juniper duo. Comments: we had tasted an oloroso version which was excellent (WF 85) but this one is more precise, purer. And probably a bit mad.
SGP:562 - 87 points. |
To Italy. That new Exmu from Sardinia had been superb the other day. |
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InQuota ‘Passito de Pantelleria Cask Finish’ (43.3%, OB, Italy, Villa de Varda, 1975 bottles, +/-2023)
This is distilled in Trentino Alto Adige, in the Italian Alps, but the finishing casks hail from the volcanic island of Pantelleria (right between Sicily and Tunisia), where actress Carole Bouquet owns a wine estate. Her wines are very good in our opinion, but you must like them extremely sweet. Colour: white wine. Nose: chalk and ripe orchard fruits. Whiffs of flour, tapioca, I’m even about to add ‘semolina’ or ‘polenta’. What’s sure is that it is not bursting with raisins, perhaps just one or two small dried figs and a spoonful of honey. Mouth: the wine feels now, this is very sweet, you cannot help but think of ice wine over some pastries. Some fresh oak, some vanilla, some honey. Too bad the structure is so light. Finish: rather on sweet wine indeed, but short. More honeyed yet. Some new oak in the background. Comments: rather a wine-like whisky on the palate, especially as the low alcohol content doesn’t really help. I think their Dolomiti Spruce Cask Finish was much better; in any case, more to my taste (WF 84).
SGP: 630 - 75 points. |
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Rampur 8 yo 2015/2023 (55.8%, OB, India, New Vibrations by LMDW, first fill bourbon, cask #2607, 135 bottles)
We’re in Uttar Pradesh this time. More accustomed to Amrut or even Paul John, but Rampur counts as well! Let’s forget about the rather traumatising McDowell’s N°1 ‘Diet Mate’ (WF 15 in 2009) … Colour: gold. Nose: one immediately thinks of several Asian malts, with very 'prepared' wood that highlights the vanilla, cakes, and the famous banana and mango duo which is always so alluring. No flaws in sight. With water: more on fresh cake, madeleines… Mouth (neat): we find that impeccable fruity composition of mango and banana, and even a touch of lychee which takes us straight to a late harvest Gewurz. Some rose liqueur. It’s very well done, perhaps one could try adding a few drops to a glass of champagne. With water: here come the quince and apricot liqueurs. Finish: long, very fruity, expansive, extroverted, exuberant (we get it, S.) A slight saline touch in the aftertaste. Comments: this 'too much' aspect really appeals to me, pass me the bottle of champagne please.
SGP: 731 - 86 points. |
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Millstone 26 yo 1996/2022 (47.7%, OB for The Whisky Exchange, Netherlands, American oak, cask #1372, 264 bottles)
It must be said right away that we quite adored the bulldozer that was the oloroso version (cask #4152, WF 89). Colour: gold. Nose: full-on oils, sesame, roasted sesame, peanut, hazelnut, sweet almond... Then more resinous oils, rye, thyme honey (it’s sublime, thyme honey), macarons, Earl Grey tea, slightly damp old cardboard... There’s a kind of elegance here that I really like, even those very slightly musty notes (old wine cellar). Mouth: very oily start again (peanut) then an immediate explosion of exotic fruits and walnut and cinnamon cake drizzled with a bit of grappa. Very slight metallic touch (old silver spoon). Finish: not extraordinarily long for a Millstone, but these very ripe fruits with rosehip tea and cherry stems work very well. Old walnuts in the aftertaste – without any oloroso! Comments: what’s also great with Millstone is that you absolutely never get bored.
SGP: 651 - 90 points. |
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August 4, 2024 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
Some pretty Olympic rums. Oh, and a few birds...
According to common wisdom, rum is rather a summer drink, isn’t it? Unless you have it as a grog, I suppose. (AI)
BTW, kudos to St. Lucia's Julien Alfred for having won 100m gold in Paris just yesterday. |
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Ron Colon ‘Salvadoreno High Proof’ (55.5%, OB, blend, +/-2022)
This is intended to feature 70% young column still rum from El Salvador, plus 30% young pot-still Jamaican rum. The name ‘colon’ isn’t particularly ‘woke’, is it? If you can have a colon, I suppose you can have a plantation too. Colour: white wine. Nose: imagine a blend of 70% Glenmorangie with 30% Ardbeg, to name just a couple of LVMH malts. Or perhaps Glen Moray instead of Glenmorangie - who remembers their ‘Serendipity’? Anyway, the Jamaican part completely dominates, much to our delight, with notes of tar and sand, seawater, engine oil, the first rain after a month of drought, and the inevitable green olives. Add in some aniseed and liquorice, and you get a very... clever profile. With water: a touch of vanilla softens it all, remaining lovely. Mouth (neat): it’s very good, lemony, salty, quite rich nonetheless, with the usual varnish, a hint of acetone as often, grapefruit, then some ultra-ripe fruits. With water: similar, with an even more pronounced lemony and salty side. Excellent. Finish: long, still very salty. Liquorice and green olives return in the aftertaste. Comments: reminds me of the 'home vatting' we used to do with malts. You take one third Ardbeg or Lagavulin and add two thirds of just about anything else. Sure success. Excellent blended rum, a lovely surprise.
SGP:563 - 87 points. |
Since we are somewhat off the road... |
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Off-Road Rhum #01.2 (55%, Vagabond Spirits, Venezuela)
This rum hails from poor Venezuela, with a 4-year tropical ageing followed by a 2-year Mediterranean ageing (what on earth?) and was finally finished in a stout cask. Naturally, being French, the idea somewhat reminds me of the opening ceremony of the Paris Olympics. We love to provoke, and everyone plays along ;-). Colour: gold. Nose: you can clearly sense the role of the beer, which has likely added a roasted and earthy note to the ripe bananas and papaya. Perhaps even a hint of chocolate. With water: I swear it works well. Mouth (neat): it’s a rather nice combination, fruity without being overly simplistic as Venezuelan rums can sometimes be (strictly my own opinion). Papaya, banana, and pineapple liqueurs, with roasted malt and a touch of dark chocolate. You might try adding some Guinness to a Diplomatico or a Santa Teresa. I’ll leave that up to you... With water: very good! Pineapple liqueur with malt, toffee, and maybe a hint of strawberry liqueur and grenadine. Grapefruit juice in the background provides a solid foundation. Finish: medium length, same profile. Slightly sweet aftertaste. Comments: I think the stout added 10 points - easily - to the usual scores for Venezuelan rums on WF.
SGP:630 - 84 points. |
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South Pacific Distillery 11 yo 2012/2023 (57.5%, The Whisky Jury, Fiji, refill barrel, cask #12, 292 bottles)
One must pay tribute to the marvellous Fiji sevens rugby team, who took silver at the Paris Olympics, only bested by France's Antoine Dupont; or rather Antoine Dupont’s France. They produce some of the finest Jamaican rums in the Fiji Islands. Well, you get what I mean. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s already in the bag, we can move quickly. A bit of cumin and coriander seeds in a mix of olive oil and motor oil (let's say Veedol, our favourite in the glass). Unstoppable. With water: additional notes of seawater, crushed slate, and new sneakers (EU size 43) ... Mouth (neat): oily texture, sublime liquorice, moderate salinity this time but wonderful notes of varnish, tobacco, and grilled country bread. Extraordinary. With water: green pepper and lemon zest come into play. Finish: very long, always oily, enveloping, citrusy, and peppery. Comments: it's not a very complicated rum, but everything is just absolutely perfect. As exciting as the Fiji rugby team.
SGP:653 - 91 points. |
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Diamond 20 yo 2003/2024 'SVL' (51.6%, The Roots, Guyana, bourbon cask, cask #23, 174 bottles)
This is the ex-Uitvlugt Savalle column still now at Diamond (SVL, got it.) Colour: dark amber. Nose: it’s sweet, with millionaire shortbread, butterscotch, praline, and that Italian branded hazelnut spread, followed by touches of petrol, charcoal, ripe banana, and fermented cane juice. A slight agricole side that I've occasionally noted from Uitvlugt, though of course, this wasn't cane juice. Very nice. With water: those little metallic touches (copper pots, pennies). Mouth (neat): excellent, not heavy at all, very fruity with surprising notes of smoked ham and sweet mint. Marked notes of woodruff. Anyone who hasn't tasted woodruff syrup or liqueur... should do so. With water: the return of esters, overripe fruits, olives, hints of carbon, ash dust, and charcoal... But the structure remains relatively light. Finish: medium length. Ash and a bit of tar, plus tropical fruits. Comments: after the Fijian from Jamaica, here is the Guyanese from Martinique. In short, we’re having fun.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
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Caribbean Rum 30 yo 1993/2024 (60.5%, eSpirit, Liquid Treasures, 15th anniversary, barrel, 282 bottles)
I find that independent rums often sport labels that make more sense than those of independent whiskies. Wild animals, tropical plants, parrots... It certainly makes more sense than the slight nonsense – often funny though - we sometimes see on whisky labels, regardless of graphic quality. Colour: dark gold. Nose: it’s somewhat reminiscent of Cubans. Very Cuban, in fact. Old beeswax, beeswax, praline, cane honey, white chocolate, with hints of peanut butter... With water: touches of coconut and very ripe pineapple. Mouth (neat): the strength brings out the citrus and liqueur-like qualities, somewhat akin to a sweet white wine from the Loire or Jurançon, if that rings a bell. This strength isn’t very Cuban, to be honest. With water: I’m a bit at a loss. There’s the light structure of Cubans, but also some tangy, even mineral sparks that seem to come from elsewhere. In any case, it’s very good. Finish: medium length. Lightly woody, chocolate, nougat, cane honey again... Comments: well, it’s very good in the lighter style. Very, very good.
SGP:551 - 89 points. |
One last one, likely to be a fruity bomb... |
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Trinidad Distillers Limited 14 yo 2009/2024 'Edition N°1' (62.9%, The Colours of Rum, Up Spirits Club, bourbon cask, cask #106, 259 bottles)
A decade in the tropics and a club-exclusive bottle. We're utterly enamoured with the vast majority of these explosive TDLs. Colour: dark gold. Nose: what a beauty. Beeswax and mango jam, in divine proportions. With water: a fruit salad dominated by citrus, plus honey and olive oil. Sublime balance. Mouth (neat): extraordinary. High-ester notes and brined olives join pink grapefruits, mangoes, and Wrigley’s ‘Juicy Fruit’ chewing gum. Incredible, terribly regressive, almost pornographic. With water: saline touches, brine, even seashells, and a perfect rubber/tar compound. Finish: alas, all good things must come to an end (only sausages have two, as our dear German friends say). Comments: are these things even legal? You’ll probably tell me one must be a member of that illustrious 'Up Spirits' club to get a hold of it – God only knows what goes on in those private clubs.
SGP:752 – 92 points. |
Oh, and while we’re at it... |
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Caroni 25-year-old 1998/2023 (60.1%, Impressions by The Colours of Rum, Trinidad, cask #8, 120 bottles)
We've already tasted an old Hampden 1990 in this new series, which was truly excellent (WF 93). Still, we do have a small complaint (wouldn't be French otherwise): how can you put a tiny hummingbird on the label of such a powerful and massive rum as Caroni? Even if it’s a 'light Caroni'? Well, we’ll get over it, I suppose… Colour: dark gold. Nose: it’s not extremely demonstrative, more like lamp oil, asparagus, teak oil, sweet almond oil, and fresh hazelnuts… It’s even quite delicate, but at 60% vol., one should avoid over-interpreting what one smells. With water: it remains a bit gentle but then shifts towards new plywood, new Ikea furniture, that famous new sneaker note we’ve mentioned today (likely due to the Olympic Games effect). Mouth (neat): superb and unusual composition, acidic, almost vinegary, very sharp, with miso, verjuice, liquorice wood, extreme salmiak, Arbois yellow wine, mustard, green walnut… You may need to brace yourself, but it’s spectacular. With water: it’s finally tamed. Ripe bananas and slightly crazy guavas, tar, ink, cedar wood, whelks, dry white wine, oysters… Finish: long, almost like seawater mixed with rapeseed oil. What a vinaigrette! Comments: a Caroni that shakes you up a bit. In truth, there’s little that could follow the incredible TDL without stumbling a wee bit.
SGP:463 - 90 points. |
A brief comment: one might be inclined to contrast these independent TDLs with Caroni since they both come from Trinidad & Tobago, and I've even heard the term 'Caroni killer', but I believe this is simply nonsensical, especially given that the styles are vastly different. |
Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far |
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August 2, 2024 |
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Olympics new session (Day 7)
Kicking this off from France, as we almost always do, as you know.
The left exhaust of a Mustand GT (GaudinX)
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Alfred Giraud ‘Horizon’ (46.1%, OB, France, +/-2024)
The bottle is quite chic, with no sign of cost-cutting. It's a far cry from a 100% ChatGPT label that hits you like a punch to the jaw and sternum. Inside, there's a blend of fourteen different maturations, including Cognac, Bordeaux, and Pineau... Essentially, this should neutralize and allow the distillate to shine. Colour: dark white wine. Remember, white wine is yellow. Nose: on brioche dough, banana cake, canned peaches, freshly baked croissants, small white flowers (woodruff, honeysuckle, clover), then custard and fresh kougelhopf. Very elegant, without a single off note. Mouth: the wood is more present, as almost always, with white pepper and a good amount of well-infused green tea, but the balance is maintained, with apples and mandarins adding their fresh fruitiness. Elegance is the word here, nearly replacing complexity. But elegance is a virtue, whereas complexity isn't necessarily so (S., we get it). Finish: not very long and only slightly sweet (Pineau?), but ripe banana and apple stay in control. Touches of young Cognac in the aftertaste. Comments: everything is very chic in this very young bottle, both the container and its contents. It’s more Kamala than Donald if you see what I mean. Top job.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
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Kalkwijck 2019/2023 ‘Higgledy Piggledy Rye’ (44%, OB, The Netherlands, American oak, 480 bottles, +/-2023)
Back on WF, this famous Dutch distillery with the unpronounceable name. Their corn whisky was quite lovely a few days ago – oh, and we do like horses – and rye. Colour: gold. Nose: oui, yes, ja, da, securo. A magnificent nose of custard, asparagus and leeks, sunflower seeds, fresh sesame, celeriac, and radishes, and freshly cut rye bread from a large loaf, out in the countryside. Mouth: I find that rye whisky is where the very young distilleries, from Holland to Hungary, express themselves best. Very nice bitterness, cinchona, all sorts of seeds, roots... And above all, there's no comparison to the Scottish masters. Finish: likewise, roots and seeds, plus a tremendous earthy side, followed by caraway and very fruity peppers. Comments: I love it, I love this rustic character. How do you say it, Call-Witch? It gives a little ‘ooh-ha’ vibe.
SGP:562 - 87 points. |
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Herr Lüthy ‘Lorentin Edition Musée’ (52%, OB, Switzerland, 248 bottles, +/-2024)
Awesome presenetation here. One of those improbable things our dear Swiss friends (we have Swiss family) know how to delight us with. A magnificent roving still, which has wandered who knows where for many years, and then this whisky that almost has a national glory status, akin to William Tell and Patrick Juvet. Let’s see... Colour: full gold. Nose: it smells of rye again, then fresh peat, then gentian, then toffee. There's a ‘blended’ side to it. With water: new plastic, engine oil, crushed mustard seeds. Mouth (neat): a perfect start on spiced bread and rye, followed by a bit of peppered peat. It’s very good, just a bit odd. With water: it’s funny, just a bit disordered. Ginger sneaks in. Finish: medium length, earthy spices, and a maritime touch that even Lake Geneva on its best days couldn’t offer. Comments: it’s great, but I fear I haven’t understood much. I’m sure it’s my fault.
SGP:462 - 82 points. |
While we’re in Switzerland… |
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Goldwäscher 2018/2023 (52.5%, OB, Switzerland, pure malted rye, cask #41)
Here we are back at Diwisa in Willisau. These people are completely mad, and we love that, of course, as life is too short anyway. Colour: dark gold. Nose: these malted ryes are indeed mad. The problem is that it’s superb on the nose, between smoked banana and mustard celery, with a hint of mashed sardines on a buttered toast. I grant you, this is very improbable, but I guarantee it’s perfect. Improbable, but perfect (say it again, S.) With water: not much change. Fermenting cereals. Mouth (neat): rye, cumin, ginger, and wild cherry eau-de-vie. You can taste wild cherry eau-de-vie at Marcel Windholtz in Ribeauvillé, it’s worth it! And it's not far from Switzerland. Also a bit of wild raspberry eau-de-vie - from Miclo this time, as ‘heart of the still’ (Coeur de Chauffe), please. With water: superb, fresh, earthy, authentic (what?) Very nice notes of bitter oranges. Finish: long and on breads and gingerbread. Comments: frankly, it’s very good, very close to raw materials. Hoppla.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
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The Lakes ‘The One Port Cask’ (46.6%, OB, England, +/-2023)
They write this is a ‘fine blended whisky’. Blended? Anyway, we tried a first ‘The One’ bottled around 2017 at 40%, but a lot of water has passed under the bridge since. Let’s be honest, we love Port, but not necessarily in our whisky. But after all, it’s just a modest finishing… Colour: gold. Nose: pleasant, simple, uncomplicated, on buttered toast and blackberry jam, blackcurrant bud, and a tiny hint of gunpowder. It’s okay. Mouth: it’s indeed okay, with a touch of sawdust, blackcurrant syrup, pepper, and bitter orange. It tingles a bit. The cask becomes quite dominant quickly, with more and more green pepper. Finish: long and increasingly vegetal and peppery. Bell pepper. Comments: we’ve tasted several excellent Lakes whiskies, but not sure this one is among them. There will be others. Let the distillery that has never released a slightly lame duck cast the first stave!
SGP:371 - 72 points. |
So we're going to look for a another one to finish off... |
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Balcones ‘Brimstone’ (53%, OB, USA, +/-2023)
Rather splendid the last time we sampled this Brimstone, back in 2012 (WF 85). Sweet Vishnu, that's twelve years ago. Still corn whisky? Indeed, roasted blue corn, they say. They also mention it’s ‘Texas Scrub Oak Smoked’, which doesn’t mean much to us. Colour: red amber. Nose: jolly good fun. The exhaust of a Mustang, the varnish on Billy Gibbons’ brand new Stratocaster, and a myriad of peppers of all kinds. How Texas is this, baby? With water: clove and compost. Incredible smoky side, very distinctive, almost alien. Mouth (neat): very amusing, on bitter chocolate, intense mocha, tobacco, and the wildest roots. Aren’t they a bit mad as well? With water: careful, not too much! Or none at all... A poor swimmer (where’s Mark Spitz?) but otherwise it remains fun, very spicy, increasingly on coriander seeds and juniper berries. Finish: long, spicy, and woody. A touch of thuja wood and soot. Comments: let’s say we remain conservative and won't change the score, twelve years on. It was all a bit dizzying today.
SGP:362 - 85 points. |
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August 1, 2024 |
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Staying with the Japanese team, Day 3 (Olympics Day 6) |
To be honest, we mainly wanted to add a row of Shizuokas, but before that, another small Kaiyo, a peated one this time. Let's expect some 'Natural Sound' whiskies today... |
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Kaiyo ‘The Peated’ (46%, OB, Japan, Mizunara and Madeira, +/-2022)
This one’s said to be made with malt peated to 35ppm. Quite a feat. We’ve already had a taste of the Kaiyo ‘Peated 1st Edition’ from 2018, mizunara-aged back then, which we found quite delightful (WF 85). This newer batch spent 2 years in Madeira casks and then 5 years in mizunara. Colour: gold. Nose: a very lovely nose, reminiscent of a young Yoichi, elegant with notes of toasted bread, porridge, mashed banana, chalk, and a light smokiness, mingling with menthol and pinewood. It’s tricky to determine whether this pine smoke comes from the peat or the inevitable mizunara. Nonetheless, it’s a very charming nose, quite Japanese in style, indeed. Mouth: really good. White pepper, saline touches, cider apples, a hint of grapefruit, spicy nuances, perhaps a splash of Worcestershire sauce, then notes of walnut liqueur, mustard, and raisins boiled in wine, likely the influence of the Madeira. It’s seriously tasty, with even a slight hint of Ben Nevis (fancy that!). Finish: long, saline, with a very pleasant smoky bitterness. Comments: the peat isn’t overwhelming, but this rather mysterious Kaiyo is excellent.
SGP:563 - 86 points. |
We also have this new Ontake... |
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Ontake ‘The First Edition 2023’ (43%, OB, Japan, 1st fill Solera sherry butts)
This one brings us to Hioki City in the Kagoshima prefecture, already home to Tsunuki (Mars) and Kanosuke. This is, of course, our first Ontake, and it is undoubtedly very young, probably around 3 years old. The price is quite high for a 43% ABV, but we've seen this with initial releases from various distilleries before. Auction sales typically sort things out. Colour: gold. Nose: a lovely nose, initially a bit metallic, then moving to overripe apple and Belgian beer, with cherry leaves and stems in the background, followed by green nuts directly from the sherry. Mouth: a very classic whisky, well-made, without obvious peculiarities, and somewhat light due to the alcohol level that feels very 1990s. A dry and rather herbal sherry does most of the work, with walnut wine, cherry stems again, touches of slightly bitter radish, and leather... Finish: of medium length, consistently on similar notes. Bitter almonds and green nuts, plus a hint of candied sugar. Comments: no problem, it will no doubt improve. Not too sure about those 43% though.
SGP:361 - 80 points. |
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Shizuoka 2018/2024 (46.6%, OB, Sushi + Soul Munich, Japan, KS+WS, bourbon, cask #939)
We’ll try not to go overboard but know that we have high hopes. Colour: full gold. Nose: immediate. Panettone, mango cake, smoked paprika, bread dough, marzipan, and a hint of kirsch. I believe we should bow immediately, as this combination, perhaps improbable on paper, is masterful in your glass. With water: absolutely no change. In short, a waste of water. Perhaps just a bigger clay or crushed slate note. Mouth (neat): simply mad. Salty liquorice, mango chutney, very dry pepper, and again that smoked paprika. Smoked paprika is just so good. With water: superb spices, ras-el-hanout, saffron, and a slight rubbery touch that’s delightful. Finish: long, rather rich. Kumquats and bergamots, a bit of mild curry, and more paprika and saffron. Comments: it was a very active cask but the original product’s elegance was preserved with skill. To be enjoyed on sushi and with soul, naturally. Water was not that necessary.
SGP:563 - 90 points. |
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Shizuoka ‘United S - Summer Edition 2023’ (50.5%, OB, Japan, first-fill bourbon)
This is a self-blend of the ‘K’ and ‘W’ stills/styles. Remember, W is direct-fired with wood, while K is a steam-heated ex-Karuizawa still. W is theoretically heavier; K is meant to be lighter. Colour: gold. Nose: this is deeper, chalkier, doughier, more natural, and less aromatic than cask 288, with a very peculiar yet simple blend of crushed bananas, lemon, and apple juices. When the proportions are right, as they are here, it’s fantastic. With just a drop of water: Meursault and acacia honey. Mouth (neat): liquid perfection. Beeswax, lemon, apple, pink pepper, and basta cosi. Even the first-fill bourbon barrel behaved well. With water: sweet little peppers add their touch to the structure. Finish: rather long, immaculate. Comments: it’s simple, almost monastic. A splendid malt for purist enthusiasts a tad obsessed with distillates. But no names…
SGP: 561 - 91 points. |
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Shizuoka ‘Pot Still W Japanese barley First Edition’ (55.5%, OB, Japan, Japan exclusive, 2,500 bottles, 2023)
Well, you see the story. Using local, even national barley, inherently speaks to the true notion of terroir. However, it is true that most, if not all, the absolute marvels of Scotland we’ve enjoyed from the beginning weren't distilled from Scottish barley, although small quantities were sometimes used. But let’s move on, we’re in Japan... Colour: straw. Nose: raw wool, chalk, Chardonnay must, apple juice, cider, vanilla pod. With water: porridge, chalk, and fresh plaster. Mouth (neat): a slightly prominent American oak, otherwise apple, barley syrup, fresh bread, biscuits, green pears, green pepper... Quite a lot of green pepper, in fact. With water: the fruits come to the forefront, green apples, limes, gooseberries, starfruit... It remains elegant and never exuberant. Finish: medium length, with excellent balance. Green tea, apples, white Burgundy, mandarins. Comments: superb but a bit understated, one might say.
SGP: 551 - 88 points. |
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Shizuoka 2019/2023 (65.2%, Asta Morris, Japan, peated, pot still K, bourbon barrel, cask #1222, 302 bottles)
I believe we’ll need to hold on to the tasting table for this one. The 2018/2023 W by Asta Morris (Asama Morris?) was splendid (WF 91). Colour: gold. Nose: just let it be. Smoked lemon and mentholated seaweed, there’s no better combination. And at 65.2%, we won't insist further; we don’t want to end up in legal trouble with our Belgian friends, especially since there's already football... With water: smoked wool, damp earth, lemon peel, morning bread dough, charcoal, and a touch of icy mint. Mouth (neat): a Toledo blade. As they say, it cuts you in two perfectly equal halves. Pepper, lemon, ashes. With water: it slightly rattles your vertebrae; indeed this green pepper sends shivers down your spine. I think it’s best to taste this in a clear state of mind, without having indulged in other drinks beforehand. Not even Westvleteren, Cantillon, or Orval, just to be clear. Finish: long, ultra-precise, fruitier, almost simpler, and easier. Lemon, apple, ashes. Comments: I’ll ramble a bit more, but this Shizuoka reminds me of the first Yamaha amplifier that entered our family home in the 1970s. It said ‘Natural Sound’ on the front. It would be nice to see ‘Natural Whisky’ on some labels, wouldn’t it? Like on this one. Very brilliant peated Shizuoka, in any case.
SGP: 566 - 91 points. |
How should we end this little Olympic challenge? With some fino from England, from Bimber again, right? |
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Bimber ‘Stratford’ (58.5%, OB, England, The Spirit of the Underground, Fino cask, cask #267/16, 325 bottles, 2024)
I do pop down to London now and then, though I must admit I rarely take the Tube. Never to ‘Stratford’, mind you, but I do trust a good fino cask. A humble reminder, just in case: fino ages under a veil of yeast, whereas an oloroso is exposed to air in its cask. Colour: dark gold. Nose: classic Bimber, elevated and joyous, fruity, demonstrative, seductive, with a hint of roguish charm. Mandarin, guava, wormwood, peonies, patchouli, fresh seaweed, orange cake—quite the bouquet. With water: hints of metal polish and even old pennies, a touch of geranium too. Mouth (neat): the fino has added a bit of peppery mustard, even wasabi, but the rest evolves over all sorts of citrus. Truly delightful, somewhat reminiscent of the early Bimber style that left us quite impressed. With water: exotic fruit salad, including that ever-present dragon fruit that’s not as aromatic as it’s made out to be. Notes of seawater and green nuts, which likely come from the fino. Finish: fairly long, lovely, and rather elegant in the end. Green tea and banana skin. Avoid adding too much water; it quickly loses its edge. Comments: the modern style at its finest. Careful cask management with a touch of romance. Stratford, where's that again? I suppose that’s not Stratford-upon-Avon, is it (totally lame, S.)
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
(Thank you Alex, Andy, Bert, and Chris) |
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July 2024 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Dailuaine 40 yo 1983/2023 (54%, Wilson & Morgan, Barrel Selection, refill oloroso butt, cask #701, 297 bottles) - WF 92
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Usher’s Old Vatted Glenlivet (J.&G. Stewart ltd., Ditta Modena Import, Italy, +/-1955) - WF 90
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
Ben Nevis 8 yo 2015/2024 (46%, James Eadie, Small Batch, first fill bourbon hogshead, 1,301 bottles, 2024) - WF 88
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
Hampden 12 yo 2010/2022 ‘C<>H’ (63%, Velier, Jamaica, cask #17, 246 bottles) - WF 91
Serge's thumbs up this month:
Exmu ‘Spirit of Sardinia’ (45.5%, OB, Italy, bourbon, +/-2024) - WF 88
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