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December 7, 2024 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Three Benromach
I seem to recall writing some Benromach notes for WF not too long ago, but there’s some intriguing looking new ones on the desk, plus I bought a bottle of the 10 year old for festive purposes and, most importantly, I really like Benromach. So, excuses duly submitted, let’s commence… |
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Benromach 10 yo (43%, OB, 2024) 
Colour: pale gold. Nose: a soft, mineral sherry, with impressions of mechanical stuff, toolboxes, oiled bike chain, bone marrow and suet. Some soft, heathery peat in the background too, with also a nicely coal-dusty and sooty edge. Has an old school character that almost comes across as old bottle effect, with these fun notes that suggest metal polish, steel wool and old pewter hip flasks or drinking goblets. Mouth: graphite oil and muddy peat, with lanolin, rather salty, drying sherry character and even a waxy side that begins to emerge. Rugged and robust whisky that definitely carries an element of older school charm and charisma. Also gives a feeling of mineral oils and a slightly earthy, mossy quality. Finish: medium length, more soft peaty and peppery notes, a nicely oily quality and some more salty sherry notes. Recalls some older Taliskers in some way. Comments: bang for your buck! A charmingly composed mix of full-bodied, slightly older style distillate with elegant sherry influence and well-balanced peat. How often do they prepare batches of this bottling I wonder, should we expect some charming batch variation? Either way, an excuse to try it pretty regularly I would say.
SGP: 563 - 87 points. |
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Benromach 18 yo 2005/2024 (57.3%, OB for Hedonism Wines, #14197428, 1st fill sherry hogshead, 286 bottles) 
A new bottling for the excellent Hedonism Wines in London. Colour: deep gold. Nose: the 10yo at warp 9! That is to say, this familiar integration of soft peat and sherry, but only with much more assertive earthiness, spiced marmalade, faded peat smoke, camphor and many elegant herbal qualities, such as bitters, teas and ointments. Also vibes of very old liqueurs such as Drambuie and Grand Marnier. With water: becomes more mentholic, with pine resin, dried mint and eucalyptus impressions. Some crystallised ginger and citrus peels as well. Mouth: muscular, vibrant and meaty sherry, with natural tars, hardwood resins, leaf mulch, tobaccos and walnut wine. Some more liqueurs, Green Chartreuse this time, and things like toasted fennel seed, dried tarragon, verbena and woodruff. Add to that some aniseed and slightly more medicinal, cough syrup vibes too. With water: leans more towards the gamier sides now, with animalistic touches, game broth, suet, old pinot noir and waxy qualities. Finish: long, peppery, earthy, waxy, mentholated and elegantly peaty. This gamey, mineral and earthy, drying sherry dominates the aftertaste beautifully. Comments: tip top modern Benromach from a rugged and excellent sherry cask. Love this tense, powerful and sinewy profile.
SGP: 463 - 90 points. |
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Benromach 21 yo 2002/2024 (56.6%, OB for Capital Whisky Club, cask #971, 1st fill bourbon barrel, 170 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: green fruits and crushed nettles galore! Possesses this sort of sharp, green, lively profile that makes you think of top class New Zealand sauvignon blanc, with these notes of kiwi, gooseberry, grass, nettles, lime and passionfruit. This also has a beautiful waxiness along with a soft, brittle and coastal peat smoke that brings to mind 1990s Springbank of similar age. Continues with shoe polish and flower honey. Something for everyone! With water: more herbal now, some coconut and sandalwood, more medicinal impressions with witchhazel and a touch of antiseptic. Mouth: terrific arrival, the fruitiness is a little more sticky, sweet and syrupy here, more flower nectars, sweet honey, lime curd, barley water, waxes, pollens, sweetened breakfast cereals and fruit teas. With water: back to sharper green fruits, tart cider apples, greengage, lime and nettle once again. Finish: long, on candied citrus peels, bergamot, lemon oil, waxes and camphor. Comments: top class older Benromach once again, almost 91! These early 2000s casks seem to be unbeatable just now.
SGP: 653 - 90 points. |
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December 6, 2024 |
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Glen Spey x 3
As part of our special programme, "Supporting Distilleries That Are All Too Often Overlooked", we’ll be tasting three young Glen Spey once again. It must be said, we’re keeping up a good pace—we’ve already sampled 80 since the start of this lousy website! |
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Glen Spey 12 yo (43%, OB, Flora & Fauna, +/-2024) 
One of the malts found in J&B, and one we tend to revisit roughly every decade. Let’s hope Diageo keeps this little gem in their portfolio, as the tiny goldcrest (Regulus regulus) mascot on the label is simply delightful. Fun fact: it’s said that Michael Jackson was the one who suggested the name 'Flora & Fauna' to UDV (pre-Diageo). Colour: white wine. Nose: not the sort to summon the entire whisky universe, but it seems better than before, with a rather charming fruity nose of ripe apple and yellow melon, followed by cake batter and a touch of wheat beer. Fruitier than I recall, which is a pleasant surprise. Mouth: quite good, though perhaps less compact and harmonious than ideal. A touch fermentary and rooty (think salsify), but lifted by notes of greengages, cider, and beer. Fresh almonds lend a mildly bitter edge. Finish: not overly long, with a slightly herbal and waxier profile emerging. Very ripe apples return in the aftertaste, giving a nice echo. Comments: I’d say it’s improved since last time, and that goldcrest is just so endearing. To be honest, we don’t really know if it’s an old batch they’re selling off bit by bit, in which case the changes would come from ageing in the bottle, or if they’re still producing new batches from time to time.
SGP:441 - 79 points. |
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Glen Spey 10 yo 2012/2022 (54.6%, Lady of the Glen, ex-wine barrique, cask #800062, 311 bottles) 
Admirable, really, that an independent bottler has the audacity to shine a light on such an unassuming distillery as Glen Spey. Let us sing their praises to the rafters, barrique be damned! Colour: straw. Nose: hurrah, not a jot of vinosity! Instead, apples, apples, and yet more apples, which suits us fine as we’re rather fond of the things. “Eat apples!” as Chirac would have said. A splash of water? Why not. With water: a touch of shoe polish and fresh rubber (tyres for Tesla), then bitter almonds before it fades a little on the nose. Mouth (neat): delightful! Grapefruit, citron, Spanish apple liqueur (masters of the craft, those Spaniards), and lashings of ripe papaya. What fun this is. With water: shifts sweetly towards candied treats, with a subtle edge of pepper and a faint nod to mezcal. Finish: long and fairly sweet—was it a sweet wine cask, perhaps? Comments: a splendid surprise, this young Glen Spey. The choice of a wine barrique, dare I say it, was a stroke of genius this time—or perhaps I’m overstating things.
SGP: 651 - 85 points. |
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Glen Spey 2011/2024 (56%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 24005, 305 bottles) 
After a parade of brilliant recent ‘Rare Casks’ from Malts of Scotland, it’s rather grounding to dip into something a touch more down-to-earth—or so one assumes. Let’s see, shall we? Colour: full gold. Nose: this one opens with a whiff of shoe polish, soon transitioning to candle wax, waxed apple skins, fresh almonds, and a spritz of good kirsch—the kind that reminds you how marvellous kirsch can be. Then on to cherry-flavoured Belgian beer (kriek, naturally). With water: metal polish joins in, alongside some fresh rhubarb. Mouth (neat): orange and pistachio cake take the lead, wrapped in a swirl of spices—aniseed, pepper, cinnamon. It’s like a tray of Christmas biscuits, perfectly timed for the season. With water: just as anticipated, speculoos appear, pairing wonderfully with that iconic Belgian cherry beer. My Belgian friends remain baffled that I enjoy such things, but I love cherries. Finish: medium length, the flavours grow a touch more disparate and lean towards the herbal, but no harm done. Comments: an international scandal, losing two points at the finish line! Still a delightful dram, mind.
SGP: 551 - 84 points. |
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December 5, 2024 |
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WF's little duos, two Strathmills for Glory
As you know, we've made it our mission to sample as often as possible (and "possible" is the key word here) whiskies from those distilleries you rarely come across—ones originally designed to supply the big-name blends that were ruling the whisky world just two decades ago. Strathmill, located in Keith, is a prime example. The main misconception? "If the owners never really released it as a single malt, it must not be any good." What a rookie mistake, my friend... Here, let's start things off with an official Strathmill to set the tone. |
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Strathmill 15 yo ‘The Manager’s Dram’ (53.5%, OB, refill cask, 2003) 
What an utterly charming label! A quick reminder that for this series, managers genuinely selected the casks, while the delightful name “refill cask” is a nod to a time when, in 2003, no one had yet conjured the bright idea of charging more for younger whisky by hyping the cask type over the age. But let’s not harp on… Colour: straw. Nose: an incredible sweetness and aromatic glow of malted barley, gentle ale, white nougat, apple tart, and wildflower honey. It’s magic – simple, perfect magic. With water: the pure beauty of nature captured in a dram. Mouth (neat): a flawless reflection of the nose – barley, apples, candied sugar, beer, perfectly ripe pears, and honey. Bright, excellent, and a choice that feels unmistakably “Distillery Manager’s own”. With water: astonishingly good, by a triple-necked electric guitar! Gorgeous malty biscuits, honey, soft polenta, a touch of vanilla, and a dash of orgeat syrup. Finish: medium in length, with a faint touch of putty but entirely consistent with everything before. Comments: an authentic, agricultural-style whisky that feels refreshingly untainted by marketing interference (and I say that as a proud member of that peculiar tribe).
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
Well, it’s true, isn’t it? If you read any old and glorious book about whisky, they’ll always tell you that the three essential ingredients are barley, yeast, and water. Wood was never mentioned. |
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Strathmill 10 yo 2014/2024 (58.1%, Lady of the Glen, Amarone finish, cask #802139, 282 bottles) 
The other day I mused that Amarone finishings are rather clever, as the wine itself, barring a few exceptions, can be rather challenging to enjoy straight. For those unfamiliar, Amarone is a robust Italian red, crafted from partially dried grapes in Veneto's Valpolicella region – often found gracing pizzeria wine lists. It also happens to be part of the rare 5% of Italian wines I don’t particularly care for, which by happy implication means I adore the remaining 95%. Italian wines for the win! Colour: apricot. Nose: a fine example of a finishing that doesn’t hammer home the wine’s identity – a blessed relief. There are touches of roasted peppers and stewed tomatoes, interwoven with fresh thyme and pine needles, evolving into orange cake spiced with clove and a touch of moss. Really rather charming, and far from a hasty ‘quick-dip’ finish. With water: a touch of earth and a whisper of cardamom emerge. Mouth (neat): surprisingly good. The wine does introduce a significant sweetness, almost like a liqueur, with notes of peppered cherries, strawberries, roasted peppers, and tomatoes mingling with juniper. It feels as though we’ve strayed from whisky territory, but the craftsmanship remains impressive – an uncharted flying whisky, or UFW. With water: a bridge-like quality comes through, suggesting a long maturation to smooth things out, though the sweetness is still quite bold. Finish: rather long, gentle, syrupy, but never cloying. Comments: how to put it? A style I don’t care for, executed with remarkable precision. Now it feels a bit like the end of the Amarone-finishing road – any further and you’d be left with fortified wine spiked with whisky. Take the score with a massive pinch of salt.
SGP: 751 - 82 points. |
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December 4, 2024 |
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Six Aberlours Before Christmas
Aberlour, the malt whisky king of France—or at least one of the leaders, with exclusive vintages available at our hypermarkets, for example. And they’re good… But that’s not what we’ll be tasting today.
(Perfect music for The Sponge's pretty glam old Aberlour)
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Aberlour ‘A’bunadh Batch #77’ (60.8%, OB, Spanish oloroso butts, 2023)
As ever, keeping up with Aberlour’s batches feels like chasing one’s tail, but we do try to sample at least one out of every two or three since that very first ‘no batch number’ release back in 1998 (WF 88). The last one we tasted, Batch #75 from 2022, struck us as particularly rustic compared to others (WF 84). Colour: full gold. Nose: Kicks off with the ever-faithful walnut and honey cake, a touch of fresh varnish and coconut in the background, then a wave of sticky toffee pudding and roasted pecans. That’s pretty much irresistible. With water: just a whisper of brake pad smoke, a hint of roasted aubergine, and then the usual parade of dried fruits, chocolate, roasted malt, and spices. Mouth (neat): very classic—chocolate-covered cherries (Mon Chéri), raisins, and fruitcake. That usual powerful delivery, slightly perilous if you’re not careful, given how deceptively easy it drinks. With water: this strikes me as a solid batch. Lovely pepperiness, bitter oranges, black coffee, cherry stones, ginger, and nutmeg. Finish: extremely long, with spiced caramel making its mark alongside a good dose of liquorice. Comments: there’s also a touch of violet-tinged liquorice lingering in the retro-olfaction.
SGP: 661 - 87 points. |
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Aberlour 11 yo 2012/2024 (59.3%, James Eadie, first fill oloroso butt finish, cask #367507, 545 bottles)
We’re in very familiar territory here, and it looks promising… Colour: amber. Nose: the style is very close to the A’bunadh, but this one leans slightly more towards plum jam and honey, after a faintly leafy opening. A touch of teriyaki adds a savoury twist. With water: all about the chocolate, really going all in. Mouth (neat): strikingly similar to A’bunadh, with an intense dose of chocolate liquorice, orange zest, and candied ginger coated in dark chocolate. With water: beautifully crafted, though that’s no surprise. You can tell there’s a superb cask behind this. Finish: long, with that wonderful liquorice lingering, plus a subtle saline edge that keeps things interesting. A perfect finish. Comments: a finish so seamless it could easily be mistaken for full maturation.
SGP: 651 - 88 points. |
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Aberlour 2008/2024 (54.1%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 24030, 274 bottles)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: this one is quite similar again, but a touch earthier, opening on shoe polish and wax before fresh walnuts tumble into black tea (if you like). With water: a mix of bouillon, metal polish, and a hint of brine. Mouth (neat): very rich, starting with notes of black truffle, then more liquorice, moving boldly into salmiak. Dark cherries, kirsch, and chocolate follow shortly after. The truffle sticks around (think tuber melanosporum), joined by chocolate truffles and whisky truffles (naturally). With water: similar, but with added green spices and a hint of smoked paprika. Finish: long, with the expected arrival of orange marmalade. Comments: more rustic, less polished than the others, but I like it a lot too. You just have to enjoy truffle.
SGP: 561 - 86 points. |
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Aberlour 14 yo 2008/2023 (54.8%, OB, Distillery Reserve Collection, 1st fill barrel, cask #636262, 300 bottles)
Bourbon, for a change. Colour: white wine. Nose: a true breath of fresh air after all those splendid sherry monsters. Here we’re on redcurrants, fresh barley, golden apples, orgeat, delicate orange blossom biscuits, and a hint of banana… absolutely delightful. With water: chalk, champagne, honeysuckle, and bread dough. Nothing to fault here. Mouth (neat): fairly powerful but fresh and, above all, very floral this time, beyond the various kinds of apple we detect. There’s also a touch of violet and a subtle hop note. With water: that typical fruitiness of sherry-free Aberlour, reminiscent of a little orchard in the countryside. People often say ‘priest’s garden’, though whether that phrase still holds much meaning is debatable. Finish: medium in length, fresh, lively, and full of liquorice (liquorice allsorts, to be precise). Comments: a very, very pretty dram, the perfect malt for the next spring. We’re either slightly ahead of schedule… or slightly behind, agreed?
SGP: 651 - 88 points. |
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Aberlour 15 yo 2008/2024 (59.1%, LMDW, Artist #14, oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #801189, 266 bottles)
I find these bottles and labels so pretty that you could almost forget about what’s inside. Of course, I’m joking—well you know what I mean… Colour: light mahogany. Nose: back to metal polish, shoe polish, dark chocolate, and roasted nuts… It’s the polish that really stands out here, and I’m very curious to see what water will do to this fairly massive oloroso. Also, roasted chestnuts. With water: not many changes, though you do get faint notes of chicken and beef bouillon, marrow dumplings, and dry-cured ham, all in subtle touches. Mouth (neat): an explosion of chocolates, pepper, and prunes—especially damson. Then it grows increasingly into tobacco and old walnuts. We’re definitely talking about dark fruits here. With water: Christmas jam, spices, cloved oranges, and ginger chocolate… Finish: long and drier, with plenty of tobacco. Coffee and chocolate linger on the aftertaste. Comments: we’re getting close to the greatness of the old sherried square OB bottles, aren’t we?
SGP: 561 - 89 points. |
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Aberlour 33 yo 1989-1991/2024 (49.7%, Whisky Sponge, Decadent Drinks, refill hogsheads, 295 bottles) 
The two vintages aren’t explicitly mentioned on the label, but the design—this time around—seems to suggest that we should don platform boots, round Janis-style sunglasses, and sleeveless Afghan waistcoats while sipping this dram to the sound of Marc Bolan. Tempting as that may be, let’s skip the costume (been there, done that). Still, incredible that The Sponge managed to unearth old Aberlour like this. Colour: white wine. Nose: it feels almost youthful, yet with surprising complexity for what might be considered a “young” whisky—if you get my drift. It’s all about time, not wood or wine. Reminds me of something César Giron, one of Pernod Ricard’s big bosses, said in Le Figaro this morning: “What does it take to craft a great spirit? Time. Patience. Time is something money cannot buy. Our craft is, in a way, selling time—true luxury.” Spot on. Here we start with delicate resins, flowers, herbs, oil paint, and fine leather polish, giving the impression of stepping into an old Rolls-Royce (I imagine—I lack the experience). Then apples, mint, dill, and subtle honeyed touches. Deeply complex, yet unhurried—like an Ingmar Bergman film. A whisky for art-house enthusiasts, or a “slow whisky.” Mouth: about thirty types of apples and plums, paired with twenty varieties of honey and honeydew. I’m summarising. Then those fine herbs—dill, woodruff, savoury, watercress—everything is so refined. Finish: fairly long, leaning more into a ‘honeyed’ sweetness (though not sugary), with a spiced mead vibe and a touch of mint. Citrus comes in towards the end, lifting the aftertaste and adding a refreshing twist. Comments: very much in the style of the early 1970s—think vintage Glenlivet, Glen Grant, or Caperdonich. Torn between 90 and 91 points, but Christmas is near, so let’s play Bang a Gong (Get It On) and go for…
SGP: 651 - 91 points. |
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December 3, 2024 |
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Secret whiskies from the Orkney Islands that might be Highland Park, but we’re not entirely sure
I’ve said it all in the headline, haven’t I? Once again, we’re taking a leap of faith…
(Gerd Muller 'Der Bomber', 1945-2021)
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An Orkney Distillery 15 yo 2008/2024 (54%, Royal Mile Whiskies, hogshead, cask #35, 345 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: if this isn’t Highland Park, and a truly outstanding one at that, I’ll eat my old Royal Mile Whiskies T-shirt from the 2000s. Please call the Anti-Maltoporn Brigade. Rapeseed oil, beeswax, fresh bread, apples and lemons, damp chalk, and some old fireplace ashes. With water: the sourdough notes come alive. Mouth (neat): sublime. It takes me back to the lovely little 10-year-old official bottling I used to adore, now sadly discontinued (cue Samuel Barber’s Adagio for Strings). Pure waxes, clays, lemons, and seaweed… But by Vishnu, this is absolutely marvellous! With water: wonderfully pure Highland Park, with exquisite bitter herbs lingering in the background. Finish: rather long, oily, zesty with lemon, saline, and just a whisper of fermentary edge. Comments: what a remarkable distillate. At this stage, the only other option is to leave it alone and let it age further—any alien interference would only detract from its brilliance. My take.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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Secret Orkney Distillery 16 yo 2006/2023 (53.2%, Acla Selection, Classic Series, hogshead, cask #54)
Colour: white wine. Nose: we could set a record for the quickest tasting note ever—damp chalk, roasted barley, beach sand, old apples, and a wee candle. With water: freshly baked bread and morning brioche. Mouth (neat): again, what a distillate of absolute brilliance. With water: cider, seawater, lemon juice, and beeswax. Finish: much the same—apple juice, earth, and ashes. Comments: in truth a simple, humble, no-frills Highland Park, but what a distillate! You could drink just this forever and live perfectly happy (though maybe not forever).
SGP:552 - 88 points. |
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Whitlaw 8 yo ‘The High Priest Batch 2’ (52.6%, Brave New Spirits, Whisky of Voodoo, Wine Casks and Burgundy Barriques, 2023)
Voodoo? Shouldn’t that be rum? That said, barriques ought to be Bordeaux, while Burgundy uses pièces (says the resident hair-splitter). In any case, this all sounds like great fun… Colour: gold with a mirabelle hue. Nose: Burgundy on full display—hare’s belly, damp mop, blackcurrant, black cherry, rabbit terrine, and brown tobacco. It’s wild; I find more ‘Burgundy’ in this Highland Park than in some grand Burgundy wines. Just so you know, I did study in Burgundy, for what it’s worth. With water: a touch of pastry and yeast emerges. Mouth (neat): it’s completely over the top—too peppery, too much on stalks, tomato leaf, zest, buds, and a hint of mustiness… And yet, I really like it. Must be my Burgundian side coming through. With water: blackberry and cherry come roaring to the forefront. Finish: medium length, with cherry, buds, and green pepper. Comments: I think this is a playful little dram to be taken with a hefty dose of humour—or perhaps a Burgundy education. I like it, seriously.
SGP:661 - 84 points. |
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Secret Orkney 17 yo 2006/2023 (52.4%, DramCatcher, cask #65)
Colour: white wine. Nose: this is rather gentle and quieter, opening on sunflower and rapeseed oils, then those familiar old apples we keep referencing. Whiffs of peppermint, fresh bread, and even ink, with a curious impression of some newspaper of the day, be it straight from your mailbox or the dog’s slobber. With water: chalk and fresh sourdough bread. Mouth (neat): simply excellent—very natural Highland Park once again. What a distillate! (I feel I should insist). With water: what more to add? Lemon, apple, a touch of seawater, and some rustic farmhouse cider. Finish: fairly long, with a very, very faint cardboardy note that perhaps ties back to that “daily” impression. Lemon takes over beautifully in the aftertaste. Comments: rather simple but truly delightful.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Distilled on Orkney 17 yo 2006/2023 (52.7%, Maltbarn, Seventies, bourbon cask, 347 bottles)
What a lovely label—it looks like a 1972 Mannschaft T-shirt, Gerd Müller and all that. Colour: pale gold. Nose: let’s keep this quick—it’s a crystalline Highland Park with chalk, damp earth, oyster shells, old apples, and paraffin… Nothing out of place here, it seems. With water: roots, a bit of Orkney mud, virgin wool, and grist. Mouth (neat): lively and almost sparkling, evoking a sensation akin to Schweppes. Ginger, cinchona, and dry cider… What kind of sorcery is this? With water: the water tones it down, bringing fresh and preserved fruits, wax, and a drop of seawater back to the fore. Finish: medium in length, slightly fermentary, with hints of uncooked lemon cake. Comments: it feels like the barley is leading the dance here. I really like this. And let’s remember Gerd Müller, der Bomber (RIP)…
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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An Orkney 11 yo 2012/2023 (48%, The Single Malts of Scotland, Reserve Cask, oloroso sherry butt, Parcel No.11)
From three casks. Colour: vermilion copper – something like that. Nose: deeply earthy, with damp soil, undergrowth, chestnuts, mushrooms, and pine needles, followed by varnish, walnut stain, pipe tobacco, and hoisin sauce… I absolutely love all of this. Mouth: brilliant—slightly thick and perhaps a bit heady, but it truly packs a punch, as they say in rock and roll. Rum-laced crème brûlée, dark nougat, freshly cracked pepper, and tobacco… A drop of water reveals a floral side, reminiscent of violets. Finish: long, leaning towards cherry liqueur and pepper, with a touch of juniper in the aftertaste. Comments: it feels as though cherry quietly shaped this Highland Park from start to finish, without us realising it. I rather adore these playful hide-and-seek notes.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Stones of Stenness 9 yo 2014/2024 (58.8%, Single Cask Nation, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #173828, 275 bottles)
It actually spent its last 75 months in 1st fill bourbon, which certainly qualifies as ‘maturation,’ doesn’t it? By the way, Stenness is a stunning alignment of standing stones, located far west of Kirkwall. Colour: gold. Nose: gentler, more composed, and more urbane than many others, yet the barley DNA is unmistakable. Fresh brioche, bread, beer, perhaps a few lentils, and touches of mashed potatoes (50% potatoes, 50% butter, 20% olive oil, naturally). With water: smoke comes to the fore, alongside slag and ashes. Mouth (neat): absolutely beautiful—assertive, lemony, and peppery, with a powerful punch that borders on violent due to all the pepper, but citrus fruits step in masterfully to restore balance. With water: ash and lemon take charge, resolving everything. Finish: long, with even more smoky, salty lemon. Comments: there’s a faint Islay-like character in this Highland Park, but that’s not unheard of. Truly excellent.
SGP:562 - 87 points. |
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Isle of Orkney 16 yo 2007/2023 (60.8%, The Spirits Hunter, for HNWS Taiwan, hogshead, cask #31, 272 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: truly, this feels like an Islay-style Highland Park, with prominent smoke, a clear maritime character, oysters, and seaweed. Had you told me this was Caol Ila, I wouldn’t have called for an ambulance right away. But beware of the high ABV, which can easily deceive the senses. With water: dirty sourdough, rowdy yeasts, and old hipster beer (aren’t all hipsters old now?). Mouth (neat): absolutely perfect—this is Caol Ila. Seriously. With water: no, it’s not Caol Ila, but there are definite similarities, with an unexpected sweet note adding, say intrigue. Finish: long, with almonds and lemon stepping in to restore balance. Comments: the challenge with such high strength is that it can throw you off course. And anyway, we don’t have six hours per whisky to let them get quieter, do we?
SGP:553 - 85 points. |
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Secret Orkney 15 yo 2007/2022 ‘Sunset Boulevard’ (65.8%, Malt Grain & Cane, oloroso quarter cask, cask #208, 151 bottles)
Well, almost 66%, this feels like a pure assassination attempt from our friends in Singapore—I fear we can’t let this slide. Colour: full gold. Nose: at nearly 66% ABV, do we even want to know? Maybe some vanilla cream? With water: not quite sure. Dry biscuits, like those in ubiquitous tins you find in airport shops the world over? Mouth (neat): it’s like drinking straight from a car’s petrol tank. Let’s move on. With water: we often forget that reducing such a beast takes time, and that molecules aren’t always quick to align. Frankly, this one doesn’t quite come together within minutes, maybe hours. Finish: long but a bit indistinct. Salt, lemon, apples, perhaps? Comments: feels a bit like bumping into Mike Tyson in a dark alley—You won’t remember much… Personally, I’d have bottled this at 57%/100 proof; there, I said it. Hugs, peace, and total love to Singapore.
SGP:551 - 82 points. |
Well, this isn't likely to be much better, to be honest... |
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An Orkney Distillery 17 yo 2006/2023 ‘Epitome’ (62.2%, Whiskynaut & Alula, hogshead, cask #3572, 290 bottles)
Still in Asia, among delightful folk who, it seems, are not quite ready to consider slightly lowering the ABV of their whiskies. Colour: light gold. Nose: quite lovely but undeniably powerful, with a boozy edge that feels a touch like a visit to the pharmacy. A few orchard apples do manage to bob up, though. With water: oh, much better indeed! Chalky notes emerge, along with more defined apples, island soils, rainwater, and a touch of lanolin. Mouth (neat): ah indeed, now we’re talking. The sheer quality of the distillate swiftly takes control, and the ethanol quietly retreats into the background. Orchard apples, tiny red berries, hints of shellfish and crustaceans, lemons, and citron zest—everything’s just dandy, as they say. With water: impeccable. Apples again, lemons, grist, sourdough, seaweed, and the rest—simply marvellous. Finish: fairly long, with a sense of adventure that lingers beautifully (what?) Comments: what a dram, and what a duel between the malt and the drinker! I won’t say who emerged victorious, ha-ha.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
It's amusing to note that peat appears intermittently in all these HPs, and not necessarily based on vintages or time periods. Maybe that’s just the casks’ previous contents. Right then, let's carry on... |
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Highland Park 20 yo 2000/2021 (55.1%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, bourbon hogshead, #4.277, ‘A Punch And a Pout, Honey and Heft’, 304 bottles)
– Well, one hopes the person who came up with that name is doing all right, that it wasn’t Angus, and that everyone realises it’s all love and peace here. After all, whisky should be about peace and love, shouldn’t it. Colour: gold. Nose: quite a mix of varnish and old apples to start, and ten minutes in, not much evolution, really. With water: nothing much emerges, perhaps a hint of plaster, but that’s about it. Mouth (neat): slightly better than the nose, though still on the green and slightly aggressive side, with a grassy edge that doesn’t quite lift it. With water: honestly, it’s hard to say – it’s clearly a good malt whisky, but it doesn’t have much more going for it than, say, a Gallagher brothers’ reunion. Finish: medium in length with some pleasant Highland Park markers, though they don’t particularly stand out, and a touch of bitterness on the aftertaste. Comments: a rather tougher Highland Park than usual, one might say. Moderate interest here, shall we say – three years after release, bravo Whiskyfun.
SGP: 451 – 78 points. |
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Orkney Islands 20 yo 2003/2023 (54.7%, Spheric Spirits, refill hogshead, cask 12, 338 bottles)
Straight from Leipzig, the land of JS Bach, the father of all proper music (including Trane, Miles, Ellington, and, err, Mariah Carey – spot the odd one out). Colour: pale gold. Nose: a wonderfully gentle Highland Park, full of vanilla, cake batter, apricots, and mirabelles. Very serene, very zen. With water: turns into straight apple juice – charming and uncomplicated. Mouth (neat): excellent, this one, with a fruity and pastry-like profile that’s lightly dusted with spices, leaning towards pepper. With water: the classic HP character shines through, with pine resin, eucalyptus, wild blueberries (the kind that stain your tongue blue), and beeswax, all lifted by a coastal freshness. A small whelk lost in there too, perhaps. Finish: fairly long, maybe not utterly mind-blowing but clean, malty, and comfortably close to barley. Comments: nothing to add here, it’s actually simply very good.
SGP: 551 – 85 points. |
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Secret Orkney 19 yo 2005/2024 (54.3%, Signatory Vintage, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt, LMDW, cask #17/A63#64, 623 bottles)
One continues to suspect that whoever assigns these cask numbers at Signatory might be on something rather potent, or possibly Amarone, which amounts to the same thing. Colour: golden amber. Nose: praline and cherry clafoutis to start, followed by leather and herbal teas (a touch of thyme in particular). With water: the Orkney ‘terroir’ emerges here, along with soft honeys—gentler than your usual heather honey, to be sure. Mouth (neat): the oloroso does its job beautifully, bringing heaps of nuts, both fresh and aged, paired with orange marmalade and quince jelly—sheer delight. With water: orange cakes, brioche with candied fruits, and rustic country honeys take the stage. Finish: medium in length, with a delicate flourish of orange blossom. Comments: rather superb, though it may not totally measure up to the finest ex-bourbon or refill hogshead versions in my book (but those are rarer than one might wish). That said, not the case at all here, but heavy sherry casks like this can sometimes also be proper burdens.
SGP: 551 – 86 points. |
Alright, one last try—let's head back towards Eastern Switzerland… |
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Secret Orkney Distillery 15 yo 2008/2023 (52.8%, Acla Selection, hogshead, cask #14, 120 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: oh, absolutely—apples, focaccia, bread dough, and sweet beer, something like a gentle IPA with soft yeasty undertones. Delightfully inviting thus far. With water: it tightens up a touch, shifting towards crêpe batter—how curious. Mouth (neat): wonderfully unique, a marriage of apples and beer with a lively vibrancy that feels much bolder than its rather polite 52.8%. With water: everything finds its balance again, calming into a serene harmony as the flavours align beautifully (hold your horse, S.). Finish: long, fresh, and precise, brimming with apples and lemons. Comments: simply splendid—now imagine saying that with the wonderful, lilting accent of eastern Switzerland.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
What we’ve learned today, it seems to me, is that the HP distillate remains highly sensitive to the amount of water you add, and that it’s better to add too little than too much (but that’s almost always the case, except when a spirit is so bad that it’s better to drown it.) |
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December 2, 2024 |
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Independent Highland Park Galore
It’s been quite some time since we’ve had a proper, enjoyable session focused on Highland Park. Admittedly, there are far fewer opportunities these days, as the vast majority of independent bottlings now appear under labels such as Whitlaw (a trade name) or Secret Orkney and other enigmatic aliases. In cases like these, it’s hard not to wonder whether they might actually be Scapa instead—just as many so-called Secret Campbeltown releases are now more likely to be Glen Scotia than Springbank or its associated brands. Right then, let’s dive in, choosing at random this time... |
'Child' by Viktor Ekpuk,
acrylic on canvas, 2022 (LMDW) |
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Highland Park 10 yo 2013/2024 (56.2%, Cane & Grain, Private Reserve, bourbon barrel, cask #4287, 248 bottles)
Colour: Pale white wine. Nose: this is pure newmake spirit, as though it’s been aged in stainless steel rather than a barrel. Buckets of beer—hectolitres, really—alongside doughy bread, a touch of earth and ashes, and just the faintest hint of vanilla. Very amusing. With water: a subtle note of paraffin oil emerges, perhaps even a whisper of fusel oil. Mouth (neat): once again, it’s very much like a barley eau-de-vie. There’s kirsch, perhaps a nod to Williams pear spirit, and yet again, that ashy touch. It’s explosively youthful. With water: water works wonders, bringing out bright lemon, crisp green apple, and a faintly saline edge. Finish: long and incredibly youthful, with a peculiar mix of peppered coffee with salty nuances right at the end. I know. Comments: absolutely one to pick up if you fancy showing your guests what malt whisky tastes like practically straight off the still. Great fun and, most importantly, rarer than you might think.
SGP:652 – 81 points. |
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Highland Park 16 yo 1974 (57%, The Prestonfield, oak cask, cask #7137, 300 bottles, 75cl, +/-1990)
Oops, we’re jumping from one thing to another (we say from the rooster to the donkey in French), but didn’t we agree on a ‘random’ approach? Anyway, “oak cask,” now that’s something we love. Let’s not forget that The Prestonfield was one of the very first labels from Signatory Vintage, and they kept using it for a while. Their Bowmore and Clynelish bottlings are legendary, though I don’t believe I’ve ever tried this Highland Park before. Colour: gold. Nose: an incredible combination of waxes and honeys, very much in keeping with the style of the era. Freshly sawn pinewood, honey, beeswax, fresh mastic, freshly mixed oil paint, and a very old white wine that has aged as gracefully as Helen Mirren (or whichever favourite classic actress you prefer). With water: a bit of umami arrives, along with meaty notes, but all with elegance—like a fine bouillon. Mouth (neat): massive amounts of fir honey, then pine resin and vegetal essences. With water: bitter citrus takes charge, with bold Seville oranges pushing forward. Finish: long and magnificently bitter, like an elixir of Chartreuse. Comments: a style that feels totally old-fashioned and absolutely marvellous. Still, 1974 wasn’t that long ago, was it?
SGP:572 – 92 points. |
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Highland Park 16 yo 2007/2024 (56.1%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, LMDW, refill bourbon barrel, cask #15603520, 229 bottles)
Colour: Straw. Nose: I was expecting a peatier style, but instead, it’s all about brioche with candied fruits. And I’m sorry, but I have to mention panettone yet again. After all, it’s the season, and I’d crawl 100 metres in mud just to grab a small one. With water: doughy bread notes emerge, along with a touch of chalkiness. Mouth (neat): what a flawless distillate! A whole spectrum of lemons—every kind imaginable—followed by honey, especially, of course, heather honey. With water: even more perfect than perfect, with a rich, almost oily texture. Finish: long, peppery, but with yuzu taking the lead. Comments: not a peaty batch of Highland Park, but the quality is extraordinarily high. Best enjoyed with panettone (that’s enough, S.!).
SGP:651 – 89 points. |
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Highland Park 6 yo 2017/2023 (60%, Whisky Dudes, cask #52, tawny Port finish, 161 bottles)
Colour: light reddish amber (or onion peel). Nose: the wine from dear Portugal takes the lead right from the start, with that beautifully oxidised tawny character shining through. Cherries in kirsch, old-fashioned jam, strawberry jelly, and then a gentle peatiness with a touch of ash join the party, creating a delightful sensation of red fruit jam infused with whisky. With water: hints of old wine casks in a damp cellar, complete with dust and cobwebs. Mouth (neat): firmly in the realm of a wine-and-whisky cocktail, with bold pepper and mocha in the background. With water: oddly enough, it works wonderfully. Jams, pepper, clove, Xmas cake… Finish: similar, with overripe black cherries and oranges coming through, though black pepper has the final word. Comments: nothing to fault here—it’s exceptionally well done, though the Port is very forward. In this distinctly European style (and why not?), it’s top-notch, yet still not my favourite style.
SGP:651 – 85 points. |
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Highland Park 20 yo 2003/2024 (56.7%, LMDW, Artist #14, sherry butt, cask #4148, 435 bottles)
Indeed I adore the artwork on the label, so I’ll take the liberty of proposing this new definition of whisky: barley, yeast, water, time, and art. I’ve not mentioned wood on purpose. Colour: full gold. Nose: extremely unusual, starting with varnish and even acetone, followed by bitter almond and turpentine. It almost feels like there’s rye in there. Then come figs and walnut wine, though adding water is a must. With water: still very singular, with more wood varnish, green walnuts, and some slightly overripe apples. Mouth (neat): the cask’s influence is massive, with loads of pepper, juniper, pine sap, varnish, and those bitter almonds again. It’s rather unusual. With water: the cask’s impact becomes even more evident—pine, resins, walnuts, ink, mead, bitter almonds, amaretti biscuits… Finish: long, and the almonds remain dominant. Think Italian almond liqueurs (yes, the Italians again, sacrebleu!). Comments: a truly singular Highland Park, tricky to score. I suspect many will absolutely love it, while others may still be scratching their heads.
SGP:462 – 87 points. |
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Highland Park 1994/2024 (48.1%, Malts of Scotland, Rare Casks, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 24012, 235 bottles)
Let me say it again: there are true gems in this series. Colour: Amber gold. Nose: a classic old-metal note emerges (think old pennies) before quickly shifting to meaty elements like Parma ham, fermenting fruits such as prunes, and a mix of damp earth and spent coffee grounds, with a touch of burnt pinewood. This one feels quite evolved so far. Mouth: and here it is—everything unfolds on the palate. Splendid dark figs and Corinthian raisins, fir honey (a dozen kilos—we love that), mint honey (ever tried it?), followed by Jaffa cakes, pistachio gianduja (enough to tempt a saint), and a very subtle smokiness with earthy undertones, even a hint of glue or varnish. A whole extra dimension, truly. Finish: simply superb. More dark chocolate, orange marmalade, Jaffa cakes, and even a drop of smoky pepper liqueur—if such a thing existed. One must bow with respect. Comments: it’s all about the palate with this 30-year-old beauty, give or take.
SGP:662 – 91 points. |
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Highland Park 20 yo 2003/2024 (54.4%, Acla Selection, Whitlaw, Ski Ladies, hogshead, cask #749)
An amusing label, likely referencing the Swiss Alps rather than Glenshee or Nevis Range—though yes, skiing in Scotland has been a thing too. Colour: Pale white wine. Nose: absolute purity of style, showcasing the grandeur of a fine old hogshead. Furniture polish, lemon zest, fresh barley, a touch of ash, a couple of apples, and even a tiny whelk—et voilà. With water: similar, though perhaps with a bit more apple. Mouth (neat): that lightly waxy and earthy Highland Park fruitiness, but here with a fizzy edge, almost like an old champagne. I’ve no idea where that comes from, but it’s spectacular. With water: still fizzy but now slightly richer, with a faint touch of smoke, more lemon, and hints of verbena and wormwood. Finish: long, still kind of fizzy, now reminiscent of old cider, with pepper and ashes lingering. Comments: I’m absolutely smitten with this unusual fizzy character.
SGP:551 – 87 points. |
We’ll have secret HPs next. |
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December 1, 2024 |
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A vertical tasting of beautiful old Cognac, vintages 1961-1940 |
As promised last Sunday, we'll start with the 1960s (just yesterday, really), but as is often the case, we'll begin with a little aperitif. Right, a post-prandial apéritif – I know, not much sense.
(Too funny, this interpretation of ‘vintage cognac distillers’ by ChatGPT, with its countless mistakes. Especially the bit suggesting "one person working and seven watching.")
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Comte Joseph ‘Hors d’Âge’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2024)
A brand belonging to the vast Grands Chais de France group, which began with Cognac but now owns countless wine houses across all regions, while also distributing spirits such as Guadeloupe’s Bologne rums. This is their own Cognac house, the very origin of the group. The Hors d’Âge range falls under the XO category (or XXO, as of 2018, if I’m not mistaken), but these offerings generally boast ages exceeding 30 years, often showcasing the oldest blends from the cellars (excluding the occasional vintage bottlings). Colour: golden amber. Nose: this is soft, rounded, and smooth, with a combination of acacia honey, orange liqueur, and sultanas upfront, followed by the expected notes of tinned peaches, dried figs, and a faint hint of violet-tinged liquorice. The nose is ultra-balanced, remarkably sweet, and even carries a delicate touch of ripe muscat. |
Mouth: that same balance continues, now with the addition of fresh citrus notes that help to offset the sweetness on the palate. There’s peach skin, honey, liquorice, a subtle hint of lavender bonbons, and an entire bag of honey sweets. Despite the lower bottling strength, there’s no sign of weakness, even though modern enthusiasts are less accustomed to these strengths these days. Finish: medium in length but quite fresh, with no excessive sweetness. Instead, it lingers with hints of dark tobacco and oak while maintaining its equilibrium. Comments: a very traditional style, impeccably executed. It almost feels “familial,” as I struggle to imagine anyone disliking it as a friendly digestif after Christmas dinner with turkey and chestnuts. What’s more, it’s a very affordable old Cognac in terms of value (BFYB).
SGP: 641 - 86 points. |
Let’s move on to (much) older cognacs… |
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François Peyrot ‘Lot 61 Heritage’ (43.8%, OB for Passion for Whisky, Grande Champagne, 180 bottles, 2024)
A striking 63-year-old Grande Champagne Cognac, entirely aged in wood without ever touching a demijohn. colour: amber with copper hues. nose: the antithesis of the Comte Joseph, showing more rugged character with sharper edges and imperfections that truly define its personality. There’s honeysuckle honey, a hint of rustic cider, a gentle acidity, and earthy tones of damp soil, mushrooms, and toasted bread crusts (think morel croûte – delicious!). It eventually rounds out with touches of butterscotch and praline kissed with liquorice. The contrast with the Comte Joseph is striking, underscoring the importance of lineup building in such tastings. Mouth: an intriguing mix of almost tannic tension and fine bitterness, balanced by a rich, almost sherry-like (old PX) sweetness leaning into fruitcake territory. Finish: slightly molassy, but more so a robust maple syrup note beside pronounced tannins lingering in the aftertaste – think Underberg and similar bitters. comments: excellent, yet likely the opposite of a cosy, ‘familial’ Cognac to sip after turkey and deserts, though you could certainly try it with turkey.
SGP: 561 – 87 points. |
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Vallein Tercinier 60/78 (48.2%, Decadent Drams, Fine Champagne, 120 bottles, 2024)
Apparently a dream dram brought to life by M. Sponge/Land/Dram/Angus, this is a blend of Grande Champagne (L.78, 60%) and Petite Champagne (L.60, 40%) bottled under the charmingly old-fashioned designation of ‘Fine Champagne’, which requires at least 50% Grande Champagne in the mix – duly met here. Don’t confuse ‘fine’ here with the term used in French to describe a wine eau-de-vie, rather than a marc. All cognacs are technically ‘fines’, but not all are Fine Champagnes, though every Fine Champagne is a fine. Aspirin, anyone? Colour: golden amber. Nose: confirms that glorious 40–50-year-old mark as an ideal age, though the average here is slightly higher at 53. There’s still tension, with hints of varnish, turpentine, apricot eau-de-vie, kirsch, and fruit stones, alongside wafts of roasted pineapple and slightly overripe bananas. A subtle cosmetic touch emerges (night cream, perhaps?) before the classic duo of vineyard peaches and honey makes a vibrant entrance. Mouth: firm and surprisingly youthful, opening with hints of gewurztraminer (rose, lychee) before transitioning to that familiar kirsch character (stone fruit, cherries). The spices then take charge with coriander, juniper, cinnamon, clove, black pepper, and a final mentholated twist. Finish: long and spicy, with subtle black pepper joined by roasted cocoa nibs, while vineyard peach bids a fond farewell in the aftertaste. Comments: less of a fruit bomb than some other VTs, likely due to a more pronounced woody structure, but still a stunningly fine Fine fine (don’t do it again, S.).
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
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Mauxion 1958/2024 (51%, OB for Passion for Whisky, Petite Champagne, 78 bottles)
This extraordinary release hails from the Petite Champagne region and has spent an astonishing 65 years maturing fully in wood. Such an extensive ageing could suggest a few bumps and bruises along the way, but let’s see if this venerable gem has managed to retain its balance and elegance. With only 78 bottles available, it’s a true rarity for those fortunate enough to secure one. Colour: full gold. Nose: we’re greeted by an almost pure expression of fruit—apples and quince make an appearance, but it’s the oranges, including their zests, that swiftly take centre stage. Dried mandarin peels (chen-pi) and the tiniest pinch of smoked paprika add a delightful complexity to the mix. The entire profile is remarkably precise, with a clarity that feels timeless. With water: the magical trio of oranges, honey, and olive oil emerges. Mouth (neat): those orange zests return with a touch of liquorice and a gentle prickle of pepper. The balance is absolutely millimetric, with the oak performing its supporting role to perfection, adding depth without overwhelming the fruit. With water: a lovely display of simplicity—refined, pure, and harmonious. Finish: it’s more of the same—those zesty oranges, a whisper of pepper, and a lingering freshness. Comments: an astonishingly drinkable old cognac even when you’re not thirsty (what?), a pity there are/were only 78 bottles available. Right, that’s the kind of comment that could land us in trouble under the watchful eye of new society 4.0.
SGP:561 – 89 points. |
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Vallein Tercinier ‘Lot n°58’ (51%, Petite Champagne, LMDW Foundations, cask #151.A, 60 bottles)
Always a pleasure to see these delightfully simple presentations. You might say that for just 60 bottles, they weren’t going to hire a designer from Madison Avenue (and honestly, I doubt he/she’d have done any better if they had). Colour: Deep gold. Nose: classic VT style, with a clean, fruit-forward profile that’s bold without ever feeling overdone. There’s a touch of herbal freshness, reminiscent of Vicks, and tiny hints of tar, all wrapped in an almost Swiss-like precision—do they make Cognac in Switzerland? With water: a gentle Rhône-like quality emerges, with notes of Roussanne and Marsanne grapes adding a refined white wine character. Mouth (neat): a perfect fusion of ripe fruits and liquorice, though it has a slight tannic grip that likes to assert itself on your tongue—entertaining, if anything, and not at all unwelcome. With water: it softens beautifully, becoming as gentle as a lamb, while the fruit evolves into the luscious sweetness of a perfectly ripe vineyard peach. Alright. Finish: fairly long, with a playful return of tannic grip, joined by a touch of tea and pepper to keep things lively. Comments: I thought last Sunday’s 1974 was slightly superior, though perhaps age is the factor at play here. Nevertheless, this is excellent in its own right, with an absolutely stunning nose.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
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Famille Cabanne ‘Lot 53’ (54%, The Roots, Grande Champagne, 130 bottles, 2024)
This baby is supposed to be over 70 years old, just imagine that—almost as old as dear Iggy Pop! (77). Colour: gold. Nose: dominated by beautifully ripe apples, in all their forms and varieties. In the background, we find other orchard fruits—pears, cormes (never found the proper word in English), and quince—alongside faintly chalky touches. Everything feels wonderfully mature without the slightest excess. With water: stunning! It lifts off towards the realm of vintage yellow Chartreuse and old Benedictine liqueurs. Mouth (neat): orange liqueur, sultanas, sweet honey, followed by a touch of saffron, pepper, and cinchona bark. It remains wonderfully compact and composed. With water: perhaps today’s winner? (S., don’t be daft, it’s not a competition.) Peppermint, orange liqueur, a hint of fig liqueur, and most notably, absolutely no obtrusive oak—even at this staggering age. We told you, it’s like Iggy Pop (though Nick might have preferred a nod to Nick Cave, but at only 67, Nick Cave doesn’t quite qualify yet). Finish: long, citrusy, and honeyed, simply perfect. A lovely dash of black pepper punctuates the finale. Comments: flawless, and almost refreshing in its elegance. Luckily, as Christmas approaches, they usually sell bespoke padlocks to secure bottles like these—make sure you get one for under the tree. Right, have we not all got some as Xmas presents (they’re in the lower drawer in the kitchen, in the back, untouched since 1997).
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
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Sainte-Lheurine ‘Lot 45’ (55.3%, Mauxion for Journal des Kirsch, #9, Petite Champagne, 144 bottles, 2024)
In theory, putting Gascon musketeers on a Cognac label will get you sentenced to wrestling a one-ton raging bull after having downed five (5) kilos of foie gras and three (3) bottles of Ténarèze. Thankfully, our friends at Kirsch are safe from such theatrics, we’re not the ones who’ll denounce them. Incidentally, this bottle won’t be released until mid-December, I’m told. May the mention of 1945 inspire peace amongst men! Colour: dark gold. Nose: a proper farmhouse affair, with heaps of old apples and pears, some bottles of mead and cider, the faintest whiff of tractor engine oil, a drop of paraffin oil, and even, dare I say, a hint of sea breeze. Quite amusing, really, as Sainte-Lheurine is far from any ocean, even the Gironde estuary. Charming stuff. With water: not much evolution, everything was present from the start. Mouth (neat): a massive burst of fruitiness. No need to list every fruit, but peaches, plums, and melons are certainly here, alongside honey. A gentle nudge of coffee grounds keeps everything, well, grounded. With water: a stunning praline of dried fruits, orange blossom, and, dare I say, panettone—it’s panettone season, after all! Glazed oranges abound, with pink peppercorn adding a playful kick. As Fela Kuti said, water, him no get enemy! Finish: long, with beeswax layering itself over the candied fruits, followed by a resinous tail (propolis). Comments: magnificent interplay with water on the palate. A sublime and tightly woven Cognac, holding steady even after 80 years. For the record, Sainte-Lheurine is the village where this gem was crafted, though no specific producer is named.
SGP: 661 - 92 points. |
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Prunier 'Lot 40' (54.2%, Swell de Spirits, Private Garden, for Hong Kong, Grande Champagne, 2023)
Always such handsome bottles at Swell, elegant enough to leave lying about in the living room without risking a divorce—or even to display atop the telly (back when they weren’t flat screens, mind you). Colour: mahogany. Nose: it feels a touch as if it had been aged in sherry casks, which would be legally impossible (I believe). Chocolate, prunes, currants, beef stock, tobacco, and a medley of small herbs (parsley, leek, spring onion), along with a hint of walnut wine. Amusingly, there’s also a rancio and honeyed side that’s almost... brandy de Jerez. Go figure. With water: menthol and a touch of tiger balm, behaving like a very old spirit that hasn’t encountered a single drop of water in its lifetime. Dried raisins. Mouth (neat): ah, here comes that old cognac feel—honeyed, lemony, spicy, and peppery, with a whisper of hoisin sauce. Feels almost like an ancient bottle, but clearly not at this strength. Some beef stock returns. With water: now we’re in the eddies of time, with notes of salt, leek soup, and dried meat. Finish: long, sweet-savoury, with a feeling of old age that’s anything but trivial. A tiny touch of strawberry jam. Comments: 1940! How does one score such a cognac without being either vulgar or presumptuous (as if they aren’t the same thing, eh)? Take this with a pinch—or a cannonball—of salt.
SGP:462 - 88 points. |
I believe we'll have a few more, even older vintages before long. |
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What's a high score here |
| I’d like to remind everyone that scores of 85–87 are considered very high in our system, that 88–92 is fabulous, and anything beyond that… is very rare. Let me also reiterate that WF is not a buying guide but a tasting journal. We’re not masochists, and both the business and our friends tend to send us good things rather than the latest concoction that might make you go blind. We’re very careful to avoid the kind of score inflation you sometimes see here and there, that said, we remain enthusiastic – otherwise, we’d stop all this nonsense immediately. There you have it, see you next time. |
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November 2024 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Benromach 22 yo 2002/2024 (56.6%, LMDW, Artist #14, first fill sherry hogshead, cask #22602102, 341 bottles) - WF 92
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Speyside 28 yo 1988 (58.4%, Lotus Lord, Taiwan, pre-used sherry casks, 5,000 bottles, +/-2017) - WF 91
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
None
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
HD Jamaica 2013/2024 (60.3%, The Whisky Jury for Care for Craft Spirits and Whisky-Age, refill barrel, cask #434985, 270 bottles) - WF 91
Serge's thumbs up this month:
Domaine des Hautes-Glaces 2016/2024 ‘Epistémé’ (52.3%, OB, France, single track #B16D24+orange triangle, 216 bottles) - WF 90
Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
Coloma 8 yo (40%, OB, Colombia, +/-2023) - WF 50 |
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November 29, 2024 |
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A few Dufftown
With an aperitif, simply because one must have one… |
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Singleton of Dufftown 12 yo (40%, OB, +/-2016)
Those from about a dozen years ago were rather so-so (WF 75). Honestly, I’ve never quite grasped the whole Singleton story at Diageo, with Dufftown, Ord, Glendullan, and previously Auchroisk... This kind of umbrella brand housing different distilleries depending on the market is a bit baffling, but perhaps I’m not the quickest on the uptake. Let’s press on, shall we? Worth noting, this one still sports the older packaging. Colour: gold. Nose: a pleasant mix of walnuts, hazelnuts, hay, and malt, rounded off with caramel and a dollop of vanilla fudge. Quite nice, really. Mouth: the palate is less convincing, with a slightly oily texture but a rather shallow flavour profile. Some nougat and popcorn make an appearance, along with a hint of herbal tea. Finish: short and fairly malty, offering notes of bruised apples and a light touch of cappuccino. Comments: the 40% doesn’t do it any favours, but it’s honestly decent and probably better than the earlier batches. I’ll have to track down a newer release for comparison one day—or perhaps not.
SGP:441 - 78 points. |
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Dufftown-Glenlivet 10 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, bourbon & sherry, 2020)
Another rather vintage bottling. Colour: amber. Nose: the sherry influence (PX) seems to take the lead over the bourbon, with rich notes of raisins and sweet wine, accompanied by subtle hints of leather and roasted chestnuts. There’s also a slightly tangy edge (courtesy of the sherry again) and a touch of gently fermented dried figs. Mouth: classic PX-matured malt, showcasing raisins, sweetened coffee, mead, and a faint whisper of salinity that adds a nice dimension. Finish: medium in length, with salted butter caramel, liquorice, and a slight metallic tang. Comments: this one’s lovely, and it softens and rounds out rather beautifully as it breathes in the glass. In short, it delivers!
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
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Dufftown-Glenlivet 10 yo 2007/2017 (56.8%, Cadenhead, Small Batch, 2 hogsheads)
The old black-labelled Cadenhead bottlings were known as ‘black dumpies,’ but I’m not sure if this series has earned a nickname yet— ‘black flats’? ‘Black squares’? Colour: straw. Nose: splendid, as this allows a more unadulterated, less doctored view of Dufftown’s malt. Here we find ripe apples, wort, rustic bread, and grist—a natural, straightforward profile, though perhaps not one to set pulses racing. With water: fresh bread and damp limestone—clean and honest. Mouth (neat): much more appealing, with notes of green apple and lemon, underscored by chalk and gunflint. On the one side it’s incredibly herbal and taut, yet there’s a delightful syrupy sweetness and a touch of white pepper in the back. With water: yellow melon emerges, along with a dash of agave syrup—charming stuff. Finish: long, precise, and beautifully balanced between mineral and fruity notes. Comments: I love this bottle not only because the whisky itself is genuinely excellent but also because it serves as a reminder of the superiority of a ‘natural’ maturation, free from excessive tampering. Well done, Cadenhead (yes, I know I’m a bit late to the party).
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Dufftown 14 yo 2008/2022 (50.4%, The Whisky Cask Company, 1st fill PX hogshead finish, 239 bottles)
A charming wee bottle from Switzerland. Colour: deep gold. Nose: a curious medley of walnuts, tangy fruits, old wines, and—unsurprisingly—Swiss cheese, with hints of garlic and kirsch. This Dufftown seems tailor-made to accompany a Swiss fondue (or as we’d say in France, a fondue savoyarde). There’s a lovely earthy undertone too. With water: fresher now, with notes of gentian, anise, dill, fennel, and slate—unusual but enticing. Mouth (neat): quirky yet nice, with a spicy, piquant character and that persistent cheesy edge. Think cumin, black pepper, and slightly overripe plums verging on fermentation. With water: leather and leafy notes emerge—tomato leaves, fig leaves—adding a rustic touch. Finish: long and, frankly, a bit odd. Comments: an amusing little creature. This one feels almost designed for pairing with food—fondue, garlic snails, spaghetti with chorizo, or even some Thai or Vietnamese dishes. All in good fun, but do give your glass a thorough rinse afterward.
SGP:462 - 79 points. |
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Dufftown-Glenlivet 11 yo 2007/2019 (54.5%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 282 bottles)
We’ve stashed away so many of these in the library... Colour: straw. Nose: utterly charming, completely natural, and unsurprisingly very similar to the Small Batch we just tasted. Fresh bread, melon, peach, wort, and chalk—simple yet so appealing. With water: fresh focaccia, damp limestone, and even a touch of white Burgundy Chardonnay—elegant and inviting. Mouth (neat): pure, unadulterated malt perfection. This is what we love. With water: green apple, barley syrup, a hint of agave and cane sugar, melon, and white peach—it’s all there, perfectly balanced. Finish: long, subtly sweet, with a refreshing touch of menthol. Comments: quick and to the point—this is excellent. Pure, irresistible Scottish malt whisky in its natural state.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
While we're at it, an older one… |
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Dufftown-Glenlivet 26 yo 1988/2015 (51%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 234 bottles) 
Well, this could take us to great heights… or perhaps not. Let’s see. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a touch shy at first, taking its time to open up, as though it needs a good breath of air (don’t we all?). Initially, there’s a bit of acetone, fresh putty, and candle wax before the fruit begins to tiptoe in—melon skin and apples to start. Then, intriguingly, there’s moss and a whisper of mushrooms… the age showing through, perhaps? With water: oddly tired now, slightly past its best. Mouth (neat): a touch more engaging here, with citrus zest and some pleasantly lemony herbs. That said, exaggerated bitterness creeps in after just a few seconds. With water: nope, not works. Finish: no joy there either. Comments: I suspect this sample hasn’t fared well over time. The whisky itself appeared clear, the fill level was fine, but during my customary pre-check for older samples (especially those with questionable caps, which you come to recognize with experience), I already had my doubts. I should have followed my instincts and discarded it outright, as I usually do—lesson learned again. As an exception, we are publishing this note anyway, strictly for educational purposes.
SGP: no – (useless) points. |
We were having other Dufftowns but I believe we shall try them later, we need a rest. |
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Bad caps, bad samples |
| Reminder: Never use, and especially never keep samples with caps fitted with pads glued to the inside. In general, defects are very easily detectable on the nose alone and are more or less always the same, but that isn’t strictly always the case. Also, avoid trying to seal caps with sticky tape or duct tape beyond a few weeks (travel period, transit etc.), prefer Parafilm. In any case, pay close attention to spirits that seem unusually bitter or exhibit chemical or adhesive-like notes—unless you know that this is inherently part of the distillery’s style, as is the case with certain Jamaican rums, for example. Because to make things even easier, there is still glue/varnish, and then there is glue/varnish. |
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November 28, 2024 |
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WF's little duos, two wee Aultmore
Let’s see what we have… |
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Aultmore 10 yo 2011/2022 (52%, Goldfinch, Bodega Series, first fill oloroso, 308 bottles)
A bottling/company where roughly everything but the distillery is a mystery, which just goes to show there’s always something new to discover in whisky. Colour: light gold. First fill oloroso, really? Nose: one suspects some trickery with the oloroso claim, but no complaints here – this wonderfully clean profile of barley and apples is thoroughly appealing. A few hints of modelling clay and putty add interest. All is well. With water: green walnuts do make an appearance eventually, but the whole remains delightfully natural and charming. Mouth (neat): excellent, youthful, and both sharp and oily, with fruity syrups and pepper, balanced by crisp apple peel to keep things in check. With water: outstanding – even better! Green apples, barley, indeed green walnuts, alongside lemony touches, a whisper of agave, and even a flirtation with mezcal. ¡Bingo! (Yes, we’re speaking Mexican now.) Finish: no issues here. A trace of mead and a hint of vanilla round things off beautifully. Comments: the cask specifics don’t matter when the result is this good.
SGP: 551 - 86 points. |
Who mentioned mezcal, eh? |
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Aultmore 17yo 2006/2024 (54.7%, Scyfion, Tequila Cask Finish, 150 bottles)
An exuberant Ukrainian bottling from our good friends at Scyfion, whose ongoing efforts are nothing short of inspiring. And this is certainly not a dram for the faint-hearted. Worth noting that the tequila cask’s involvement spanned a full 48 months, qualifying as ‘maturation’ rather than mere ‘finishing’. Slava Ukraini! Colour: gold. Nose: remarkably, the malt has held its ground admirably despite those four years, coming across with a character reminiscent of its predecessor, but with an added earthy nuance and perhaps the faintest suggestion of olive. With water: similar impressions, now enriched by gentle bakery notes—yeast, bread dough, beer—and, buried deep in the background, a fleeting wisp of lavender infused in olive oil. Mouth (neat): Once again, the tequila influence is admirably restrained, its contribution perhaps lurking in those earthy hints of grapefruit and pink pepper. Bright, fresh, and wonderfully vivacious. With water: here, the tequila finally steps forward a little more, yet without disrupting the malt’s coherence. No clash, no disjointedness—it remains unmistakably a whisky. Finish: long, fruity, and thoroughly delightful, with a mineral touch, perhaps slate or basalt. Could that be the tequila again? Comments: Tequila production in Ukraine—who knew? Right… In any case, this Aultmore is simply excellent, and one can only dream of a future where Scyfion’s Crimean wine finishes make a triumphant return. As for Frida Kahlo's head on a Mayan pyramid...
SGP: 551 – 87 points. |
PS: I tasted it again after 30 minutes; the tequila came through much more noticeably, but not enough to change my modest score. Slava Ukraini! |
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November 27, 2024 |
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