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| Hi, you're in the Archives, September 2025 - Part 1 |
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September 14, 2025 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
Malternatives: only high-class Armagnacs |
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| Domaine de l’Auzoue (Domaine de l’Auzoue) |
We'll start with a little something new that we've just discovered in... Scotland. And indeed, over there, it had a distinctly Scottish flavour. |
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Domaine de Balous 10 yo 2014/2025 (53.3%, Decadent Drams, Bas-armagnac, selected from Château Garreau, 120 bottles) 
Pure Baco from a sprawling 300ha estate (!) in Aire-sur-l’Adour. That said, we did notice the estate also harbours maize fields, grain cultivation, pig farming and fattened ducks, with vines covering a mere... 4ha. Phew! Colour: pale gold. Nose: opens on moist ashes and menthol, then swiftly veers towards fir buds, camphor and pink grapefruit. A few grape skins and stems in the background serve as a gentle reminder that this is indeed a wine brandy. A trace of vanilla too. All in all, a very rustic nose, which we always enjoy. With water: one could almost believe they’ve washed up on the northeast coast of Scotland, wax candles and all. Grape seed oil. Mouth (neat): a whisper of retsina to begin with, then plenty of youthful vigour, mint tea, a touch of olive liqueur and an increasingly saline profile, veering ever more… Scottish. With water: it quietens down, though only just. You’d almost swear it had seen a Laphroaig cask in a past life, though of course that’s pure fancy. Finish: long, remaining delightfully rustic, this time heading towards pinot noir marc. Comments: given they grow grain on the estate, one might cheekily wonder whether some found its way into the ‘mash’. At any rate, we do rather like this slightly deviant and unpolished wee armagnac, quite a find.
SGP:462 - 88 points. |
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Domaine Cutxan 18 yo 2006/2025 (51.9%, L’Encantada for Armagnac Festival 2025, Bas-armagnac)
They write ‘maturation in progress’, which at 18 years of age rather suggests they’re in it for the long haul. This is Baco again. Colour: amber. Nose: quite different, of course, more classical, rounded without being soft, on poached peaches in Sauternes, acacia honey and then a hefty slab of Scottish fudge. The link with Scotland stops right there. With water: incredible, once again we find mint and camphor rising up, albeit in infinitesimal amounts. The rest remains classical and very pretty. Mouth (neat): to my taste this is fully mature, even if this time there’s a rather amusing agricole rum note, with liquorice, cane juice and very ripe bananas clearly marked. With water: it really does feel like a Gascon/Martinican blend now, I kid you not. And it’s very good. Finish: similar story, soft liquorice taking the lead, then a tiny splash of grapefruit juice. Comments: a striking contrast and, when all is said and done, a comparable level for me.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
After an Armagnac-whisky and an Armagnac-rum, let’s see if we can sniff out something a bit more conventional… |
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Domaine Pouy 25 yo 1998/2024 (58.7%, The Colours of Rum, Up Spirits Club, No2, Ténarèze, cask #93, 120 bottles)
We do love our Ténarèze. Alas, Domaine Pouy has been closed for some fifteen years now. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: I must be dreaming, something’s surely happening in the skies above WF HQ—this time I’m finding a distinct modern Macallan character, I swear. Raisin rolls, prominent but polished oak, discreet sherry, notes of moss, ferns, tobacco… I may need to consult a doctor. With water: in come beeswax, candle drips, orgeat, pollen and a stunning orange marmalade. Mouth (neat): no doubt about it, this is veering full-on towards a glorious… cognac. No kidding! Vineyard peaches, various honeys, very ripe apricots, mirabelles, quinces… With water: perfect. A rather soft and seductive Ténarèze, exquisitely balanced. Finish: not very long but slightly earthier, and what a lovely patch of earth it is. Comments: excellent Macarmagnac, highly civilised, a proper crowd-pleaser.
SGP:551 - 89 points. |
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Domaine de Bellair 23 yo 1998/2025 (59.2%, L’Encantada for Armagnac Festival 2025, Bas-armagnac, cask #78) 
23+1998–2025=–4, so probably 4 years in demijohn. Did you know we held a doctorate in quantum mathematics? No, neither did we… Colour: red amber. Nose: you instantly understand why this spent time in demijohn—there are varnishes à la young bourbon, even touches of acetone, yet also hints of sherry and old Catalan rancio. Notes of aged walnuts too. With water: magnificent woodland floor after the rain. Mouth (neat): oh, how lovely this is. Certainly extreme, admittedly a tad too oaky, slightly solventy as well, but it hits like a battle standard flapping at dawn (what what what?) With water: sheer beauty. Peaches poached in honey or sweet wine, take your pick. Finish: not terribly long but supremely satisfying. Fruity liquorice. Comments: wow, the battle was most definitely won.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
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Pouchégu 30 yo 1995/2025 (54.8%, Hontambère, Ténarèze, cask #B4, 200 bottles)
Pure ugni blanc here. This baby has just been released, but we know that Pouchégu—another now-defunct estate—produced magnificent things, so it’s almost as if we already knew what to expect in our wee tasting glass. Colour: red amber. Nose: very well integrated, on stewed and preserved yellow fruits and exotic jams, various honeys, with a discreet fir-and-mint combination tucked well into the background. A faint vinous edge, though you can tell two or three drops of H2O will work wonders here. With water: the wood rises up, but it’s beautiful wood. Damp earth, greenhouse air, mosses… Mouth (neat): ultra-expressive, marked by resinous oak and some wine wood, but in this context all of it feels extremely positive, especially as the exotic-cask-meets-mint combo takes over with tremendous grace. That said, you can feel again water’s going to work miracles… With water: and indeed, it does, bringing out that distinctly Ténarèze, very ‘countryside’ character most delightfully. Finish: long, now uniting every facet—earth, resins, honey, exotic fruits… Comments: to be sipped during a feria, right in the middle of a bull run. Just mind yourself…
SGP:661 - 90 points. |
Oh, go on, one more Ténarèze, please… |
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Domaine de l’Auzoue 31 yo 1991/2025 (55.6%, L’Encantada for Armagnac Festival 2025, Ténarèze, cask #16) 
A blend of Baco and Ugni Blanc. This is our first time tasting an armagnac from Domaine de l’Auzoue in Courrensan, which, truth be told, we’d never heard of before. No doubt a small (but sturdy) estate. Colour: deep gold. Nose: old-school, on solvents and peaches, caramel, vanilla and assorted varnishes. A touch of fino sherry. With water: even more towards fino now, with sea water and mustard. I kid you not. Mouth (neat): oh, this is good, with lovely bitterness and varnish layered over white wine and yellow fruits. Feels like a grandfather’s armagnac, but in this case it’s a Gascon grandfather. With water: same impressions, perhaps even veering towards farmy Calvados now. Finish: long, rustic, more herbal. Touches of kirsch. Comments: we’re deep in the countryside now, just add foie gras and some garlic cèpes and you’re all set. Excellent, of course.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
A final Ténarèze, if you please… |
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Domaine Lous Mouracs 1982/2025 (51.9%, L’Encantada for Liquid Art, Ténarèze, cask #601, 89 bottles)
Another micro-bottling of venerable armagnac, strictly for aesthetes and the polite and well-educated only. People like you and me, right… Colour: dark amber. Nose: a medley of yellow and red fruits, fine oak, deadly hydromel, then dark tobacco and bitter chocolate. Menthol gently blankets the whole, but with poise and restraint. With water: amusingly, it brings to mind those incredible Californian beers like Pliny the Elder, sipped on site in good company, though that was long ago… sob sob… Mouth (neat): oh, this is lovely—powerful, very Ténarèze, robust and utterly unyielding. Marvellous spicy citrus and cherry cream, chestnut honey, pinewood. With water: excellent, more earthy, woodier, with added leather and dark tobacco, but all that makes the whole even more assertive. You see what I mean. But do go easy on the water! Finish: very long, on varnish, tobaccos and candied cherry. Slightly drying. Comments: we’re back on the heights. Did we mention dried apricots?
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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September 13, 2025 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Celebrations and old bottles!
Every so often, whisky gives me a necessary reminder of why I love it and why I stay devoted to it. Last weekend in Edinburgh, I gathered with old friends to open a great selection of old bottles and simply celebrate together. |
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On top of that, I've been kindly sent quite a few very tantalising samples of old bottles recently, which means there's probably a fair few very silly tasting sessions coming up full of old bottles on Whiskyfun. As we often point out on these pages, we are not masochists, and we rather like to taste whiskies that we think will bring us pleasure and joy. |
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I've been tasting old and rare bottles for over twenty years now (not continuously). In fact, the first bottle that really switched me on to old style whisky was an old Lagavulin 12yo White Horse bottling, poured from the boot of an anonymous Belgian enthusiast's car in the carpark at Ardbeg when I was working there as a tour guide around May 2005. Since that time, I have undeniably been very fortunate to taste the selection of whiskies that I have, largely thanks to a small legion of generally older friends who benefitted from a smaller, more innocent, early era of whisky culture and its associated lower prices and were able to accumulate quite considerable stashes of these amazing bottles and naturally to open and share them as well. Off the back of that experience I was able to incorporate working with old and rare whiskies in my professional life, initially by working in auctions, and latterly by exhibiting at festivals. It meant I was able to continue to search for and open such amazing historic bottles. |
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Nowadays I do far less of that work, which is a bit of a shame but understandable given the now extremely steep prices commanded by these sorts of bottles and their general level of scarcity - which is noticeably much greater than 15-20 years ago. |
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It makes events like this past weekend - the excuse for which was three of us had milestone birthdays this year, including my 40th - all the more special and provided opportunity for meaningful reflection on these amazing old-style whiskies and upon their continuing potency as agents of friendship. |
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| Some rare Securo caps. Securo caps were a type of tamper-evident, child-resistant closure sometimes used on spirits more than sixty years ago. |
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I'll take this opportunity to offer a few musings and observations about old bottles in this present day. |
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1: They are still - frequently - great! This might seem a bit obvious, but I think it bears repeating that old bottles retain a power to dazzle, to shock and stop you in your tracks with sheer force of quality and beauty that almost no modern whiskies possess to the same degree. History and emotion are undoubtedly a part of this, but this would not be the case if the liquid itself was not profound in difference and quality. There are of course often flaws, issues, problems arising from age in simple glass bottles (let alone strange capsules), but the underlying essential quality of these old bottles is that they show 'old style' malt whisky, of an era and character that is shockingly distinct from their modern counterparts. This point can't be laboured enough in my view. |
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2: That being said, there's more and more tricky problems with old bottles. I would say, over the past twenty years of opening hundreds of these bottles, I notice that more and more of them display funny notes associated with old bottle effect, or capsule taint. More of these whiskies appear a little tired; some show increasingly common soapy notes; blends in particular really diverge from each other depending on volume of malt content and closure type. It serves to highlight the ones that show incredibly well and really stand the test of time, it's just that those, in my view, are becoming scarcer. |
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3: There are bottles that can last over a century in bottle and show magnificently. But to achieve this they tend to require a good quality cork closure as this was the best material for preservation at the time, be either wholly or mostly single malt, and it helps if they have a good amount of peat influence and a higher than 43% bottling strength. |
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4: Screw caps and spring caps can be incredible preservers of filling level, but even in those instances the preservation of the spirit - due to the non-inert materials used in the manufacture of these capsules in that era - can be something of a lottery. |
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5: Anything bottled above 46% gives immense power of preservation to a spirit, but it does not necessarily insulate it from developing strange characteristics in the bottle. Not even cask strength can ultimately protect a spirit from influence over the course of decades in a glass bottle - although, on average, the most brilliant and well-preserved historic whiskies I've tasted, tended to be those bottled at much higher ABVs. |
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6: Old Bottle Effect (OBE), remains a distinct phenomenon that I would characterise as separate from other issues with old bottles like loss of ABV, filling level, loss of potency etc. To me, OBE is generally negative and tends toward specific flavour characteristics that are usually vegetal, porridge and cardboard staleness. These profiles are most noticeable in lower malt content blends from the 1960s and 1970s, but they are also increasingly found in single malts of many types, although still most commonly larger batch, lower ABV official bottlings of single malts. |
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7: I also think it is clear, after over twenty years of tasting modern and old bottles, that whisky does develop positively in bottle. I think this is separate from OBE described above. To me, this is when whiskies develop greater subtlety and complexity in bottle and digest some of their rougher edges that they would have possessed at point of bottling. Elevation of fruit flavour and sub-division of peat character are key hallmarks of this process in my experience. This seems to require around twenty years to become noticeable. I observe it in bottles I was already very familiar with a couple of decades ago when I revisit them now. This was most striking to me last week when re-tasting some early Special Releases bottlings (Oban 1984, Brora 30yo 1st release) that I hadn't tried for a number of years. |
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8: Of course, all of that stuff about OBE, bottle ageing etc, is heavily anecdotal; humans also change as we age, our sense of smell and perception of flavour etc, the funny tricks played by memory. Despite many sensible, science-based theories about what 'should' and 'could' happen to different types of whisky during decades in glass, there remains no known studies around this subject, and it is indeed an incredibly hard subject to study objectively and accurately. If anyone fancies a crack at it... |
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9: There isn't much else quite like getting together to open something utterly remarkable and ancient bottles that nobody has tasted in decades; this goes for most alcohols, not just whisky. Life, for me, is about experience, so the sense of sharing a piece of history in the moment together is hard to beat. Old style whisky is uniquely suited to this, it's one of the reasons why these bottles command such high prices and why they are valued by so many people around the world: a sense and possibility of connection to the past and, if opened, a window into it. |
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10: These old bottles often improve dramatically with just a week or so once opened. It creates a dilemma we've often commented upon when we get together to crack open bottles: if we wanted to experience them together at their best, we should probably open them a couple of weeks early, decant them and then put them back into their bottle for serving. But in doing so, you lose that shared moment of revelation. Part of the joy of these whiskies remains the unknown, the suspicion and hope that they might reveal something utterly wonderful, the risk taken and sense of reward and shared discovery if you're all there together at the point that screw cap is cracked or that dusty, gnarly old cork is excavated from the bottle for the first time. It's why we always save them and open them as a group, and why we always observe that "this is amazing, think how good it will taste in a couple of months.... can you save me a sample?" |
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11: If you're reading this and you're familiar with these experiences, we are all pretty damn lucky to be able to do such things and it's worth reflecting on that I think. |
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This week we'll just start with... |
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Glenlivet 15 yo (100 proof, Gordon & MacPhail, securo cap, bottled early 1960s) 
Securo caps are probably one of the best ever preservers of filling level in a bottle and they are also a dream for anyone who has to date old bottles as they were used only around 1962-1963. Many wonderful older malts were sheltered behind what I believe deserves the title of 'geekiest whisky bottle closure'. Colour: deep gold. Nose: so old style it makes you chuckle! Seriously, this is like muton stew, old bouillon broth, very old burgundy, roast pheasant, natural tar liqueur, resinous fir woods and all manner of oils: motor, lamp, olive - you name it! Also hugely camphory, full of herbal liqueur notes, dried out old honeys going towards beeswax and cask aged mead. Amazing! With water: stunningly herbal and mentholated, really going towards complex old herbal tea, medicinal properties, ointments, boot polish, tiny inclusions of peat, tar, eucalyptus and more of these wonderful umami broths. Mouth: astonishingly powerful, almost brutal but at the same time brilliant! Ruggedly earthy, extremely salty, and more dominated by classical, bone dry old sherry notes. Think big dry old oloroso full of rancio! Some cedar wood boxes full of aged cigars and reams of hessian. We should also mention the texture as well, which is so huge you could stand an Elephant on stilts in the glass! With water: magnificent and just more of everything, same texture but broader, more emphatic herbal, waxy, gamey, earthy and honeyed characteristics. More of these salty, rugged old VORS sherry vibes and some stunning tertiary earthy notes. Finish: very long, elegantly drying, salty, earthy and showing more classical sherry cask influence once again. Comments: Amazing, decidedly old-style malt whisky of immense texture, body and charisma that rewards, nay, requires patience and several drops of water.
SGP: 562 - 93 points. |
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Glenlivet 1945 (100 proof, Gordon & MacPhail, securo cap, bottled early 1960s) 
An even rarer vintage-stated version at classic 100 proof bottling strength, which equates to 57.1% in today’s ABV. Colour: gold. Nose: please see my comments about capsules above! This bottle had a perfect filling level when opened, probably in never lost a single millilitre in 60+ years in glass. And yet, this whisky has gathered an undeniably funk that feels like a profile we've encountered before with old screw caps and spring caps in particular. Loads of forest mushrooms, baked vegetables, hints of carboard, metal polish, medicinal roots, old copper coins leather bags but also behind that some very similar characteristics to the 15yo, with big impressions of cask aged mead, huge waxiness, herbal medicinal and liqueur-ish properties. With water: cider apple funk that suggest young calvados, alongside more wild mushrooms, more aged game meats, pinot noir, truffle, mead, more metal polish and old sooty iron coal hearths. Mouth: it's really two whiskies at the same time, on the negative side this funkiness and funny vegetal side extends to the palate and delivers some grubbiness and muddy notes. On the positive side, it's very close in texture and fatness to the 15yo, with similar magnificent saltiness, tar, waxes and herbal flavours. With water: at its cleanest with water, but still a challenging beast of opposing personalities. Some stunningly salty and peaty flavours coming through with more assertion and precision now, also touches of mint, big camphor and more chunky earthy notes. Finish: very long, immensely long in fact, glowing warm with peaty, sooty, earthy and medicinal rooty notes. Liquorice, caraway and hessian jumbled up in the aftertaste. Comments: it's almost impossible to score a bottle such as this, pure history in a glass that your emotions and intellect could convince you was somehow in perfect condition. But this perfectly illustrates my point above about old bottles increasingly being something of a lottery. Now, I would say water helps a lot here and is in fact essential but overall it remains incredible to try, but very hard to score. You can easily see how another bottle without these funny capsule-induced funky notes might easily fetch 93-94 points.
SGP: 562 - 85 points. |
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Glenlivet 27yo 1954/1981 (46%, Cadenhead Dumpy, sherry)
It's always tricky with old bottles to know which way around to taste them. In this case, I decided on youth and strength before age and grace... Colour: deep ruby/mahogany. Nose: sweet featherless Vishnu! A collusion of the most glorious ancient Armagnac and the most incredible low-ester Jamaican rum. Also some kind of otherworldly sherry-induced lusciousness. The whole is drenched is plump, sweet, sumptuous dark fruits: plums, damsons, figs, prunes, sultanas - the whole ruddy spectrum of fruit is in here. Also freshly brewed black coffee of the most sublime quality, fermented tobacco, tiny hints of medicinal tinctures and dark chocolate studded with sea salt. In truth, this is immediately one of those whiskies that is a total, perfectly cohesive whole which simply dazzles you. I find this kind of aromatic depth, intensity and beauty utterly poetic. Mouth: pure green walnut liqueur, miso paste, tar liqueur, Maggi and yet more mind-boggling dark fruitiness, acidity, ancient rancio-drenched old Armagnac re-appears once again. In truth, it's hard to describe and probably pointless to try. The sort of whisky that puts food on the table for those Anti-maltoporn brigade folk. The rest is censored. Finish: also censored, we'd be here all week! Comments: Older style malt whisky distillate of stunning quality, paired with a once in a lifetime sherry cask (probably drenched in pajarete for all I know) and done no harm at all by nearly 40 years in bottle. You can't ask for much more than this from a sherry matured malt whisky in my view.
SGP: 652 - 95 points. |
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Balblair 8 yo (100 proof, Gordon & MacPhail, securo cap, bottled early 1960s)
I have no suitable sparring partner for this Balblair and, as it was opened together with the Glenlivets above and also a securo cap, it seems a shame not to include it here. Colour: gold. Nose: a profile that just cannot belong to whiskies distilled after the 1960s in my experience. Instantaneously fatter, thicker and more muscular distillate on display, dominated by honeys, waxes, camphor and, in the case of this wee Balblair, subtle notes of dried and exotic fruits. In fact, these wee fruity signatures do make you think of Balblair's usual fruitiness. Also background hints of engine oil, herbal tea, kumquat and bone marrow - quite the medley! With water: the coastal qualities come to dominate more decisively now, a beautiful freshness, salinity, still immensely muscular and punchy and with a sharper, more lively fruit profile on display. Water really seems to awaken freshness in this one. Mouth: extremely powerful, here you realise this is really a young whisky with these big spicy notes, jagged, almost rough, waxy qualities, fat oiliness, big hints of camphor, paraffin, stoney mineral qualities, tar and more things like marrow, umami broths, herbal teas and toolbox rags. A whisky that sits equidistant between the workshop, the seashore and the forest. With water: astonishing thickness and waxiness in both flavour and texture. Old crystalised flower honey cut with motor oil and garnished with assorted green, yellow and exotic fruits. A whisky with the texture of old Drambuie almost! Finish: stunningly long, salty, camphory, with menthol notes of mint, pine resin and eucalyptus. Comments: a beast, but also a beauty. Astonishing power, and with water also an immense freshness is unlocked that really delivers something quite breath-taking. The thing I keep returning to with drams like this is the texture, the fatness and the sense of body. I'm delighted with this wee, old, young Balblair!
SGP: 563 - 94 points. |
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Thanks to all my great friends who came along last week! There will probably be more maltoporn to come in the next few weeks I'm afraid. |
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September 12, 2025 |
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We're setting off around the world again |
Well, Europe actually. As we were saying, the whole world is making whisky now, and inevitably there's a scissor effect taking place, with demand not necessarily where it was expected, and small lochs being filled here and there. All the more reason to separate the wheat from the chaff. We're setting off from France again, of course... |
Breton chouchen, or chouchenn (La Bigoudène) |
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Armorik ‘Small Batch Chouchenn’ (46%, OB, France, +/-2025) 
What an improbable idea! This Breton malt was matured in Breton oak casks (why not) and in casks that had previously held chouchenn, a Breton-style mead with a rather dodgy reputation. I’ve heard it takes three men to drink the stuff: one to do the drinking and two to hold him up—though that old chestnut’s done the rounds with many a dodgy beverage, even some Alsatian varietals… Colour: gold. Nose: one does indeed get an impression of hive, beeswax, pollen, and old firwood, though there’s also a fermentary, yeasty side from the mead, reminiscent of bruised apples left a bit too long… Mouth: truth be told, this isn’t far from malts matured in calvados, though the chouchenn’s influence is kept in check. It’s certainly sweeter than your average Armorik, often excellent as those are. You do find honey, yes. Finish: fairly long, again somewhat sweet, with a noticeable oaky presence. Comments: this is genuinely good fun and rather amusing, but it does feel a little… touristy. We prefer the classic Armoriks!
SGP:641 - 80 points. |
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Eddu 21 yo 2003/2025 ‘Graal #2’ (46%, OB, cognac cask, cask #08001, 365 bottles)
They say this may well be the oldest French whisky in existence. The first batch, back in 2022, had been magnificent (WF 88). Let me remind you this is a whisky made from buckwheat. Colour: full gold. Nose: wonderfully soft and pâtissier, with orange blossom, oriental pastries, honey, Corsican citron liqueur, and a definite old triple-sec character, though it never turns heady or overblown. It’s the citrus fruits that lead the dance here. Mouth: really very good, starting rather on herbal spices, with clove, and hints of peppermint, then once again the citrus takes over, this time alongside little hazelnut biscuits. Orange zest, orange blossom honey, white nougat, fresh marzipan… All of this is gentle and really rather perfect. Finish: of good length and always on this soft, honeyed, citrusy sweetness, leaning towards a lovely old cognac from Grande or Petite Champagne, with wee notes of vineyard peaches and rolled liquorice. Comments: gentle yet beautifully composed, extremely seductive. What a fine buckwheat! That said, the individual quirks seem to have mellowed somewhat with age…
SGP:631 - 88 points. |
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The Nine Springs 3 yo ‘Triple Cask Batch 10’ (46%, OB, Germany, +/-2023) 
Produced in Thuringia and matured in American Virgin Oak, ex-Bourbon and ex-Bordeaux casks. At three years of age, that might sound a bit much, no? Unless the casks weren’t used sequentially, but in parallel… That said, previous Nine Springs we’ve tried were really quite good… Colour: pale gold. Nose: not so sure here, this is rather earthy and fermentary, with some apricots coming to the rescue, though there’s also a whiff of old barrel mustiness. Mouth: more agreeable, with touches of raspberry liqueur, mild beer, milk chocolate, spiced cake, and cinnamon… Finish: long and spicy, with some small rubbery notes towards the end. Comments: a touch wobbly in terms of profile and perhaps not entirely coherent, yet it remains of a real good standard.
SGP:651 - 79 points. |
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Peak Side 7 yo (60%, OB, Switzerland, sherry cask, cask #1, 160 bottles, 2024)
Made by the See-Distillerie in Beckenried, in the canton of Nidwalden, on the shores of Lake Lucerne. A stunning place, that. Colour: deep amber. Nose: a few pencil shaving notes to start, then juicy damson tart and very moist pumpernickel, the whole thing being rather, rather lovely. With water: hey hey! Mouth (neat): powerful of course, but also showing a fresh black bread side we’re totally smitten with. The pumpernickel’s back. Light touches of molasses. With water: clove, nutmeg, star anise, prunes and… pumpernickel. Lots of those dark, faintly fruity breads one finds in Bavaria or Austria, and no doubt also in Nidwalden. Finish: long, again leaning on prunes and that famous bread we shall now stop naming, lest we overdo it. Then more towards candied fruit, with figs and a few currants. A little cumin, liquorice and candied orange right at the end. Comments: a lovely surprise, and to think this was cask number 1. A proper breakfast malt.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
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Millstone 2018/2025 ‘Unpeated No.3’ (54.1%, OB for Kirsch Import, Netherlands, Dutch Windmills Collection, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt, cask #18B251, 614 bottles)
We do tend to like what Millstone/Zuidam are doing, let’s just say that straight away. Colour: amber. Nose: naturally, this is lovely, softer than expected, gentler, absolutely rammed with fruitcake, all led by top-grade sultanas of the kind you’d find in the finest Levantine grocers. With water: much the same. Mouth (neat): tarry touches atop a concentrate of those same sultanas we mentioned above. Is this a spirit made of sultanas? We adore sultanas—true Proustian madeleines, our grandmothers used to keep them in little tin boxes as if they were coins of gold. With water: same again, with more honey and orange liqueur. This stuff is sinful. Finish: not tremendously long, but carrying those same superb, timeless (whatever that means) and philosophical (wait, what?) flavours. Comments: a bit Glen Sultana, if you like, but we’re total fans.
SGP:641 - 89 points. |
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Millstone 2018/2025 ‘Heavily Peated No.5’ (54.1%, OB for Kirsch Import, Netherlands, Dutch Tulip Collection, 1st fill PX sherry butt, cask #17B089, 628 bottles)
This one might require some proper bracing… Colour: full gold. Nose: pencil shavings juice, brand new trainers, fir tar, very ripe plums and Corinth raisins. It’s maddening how pretty it is. With water: not much change, to be honest. We’re not going to mention sultanas again, are we. Mouth (neat): my word this is good. Someone’s dared to smoke orange liqueur with honey and spike it with cumin and juniper, then toss in some milk chocolate. This should be banned—or at least heavily regulated by the European Commission. Heaven forbid… With water: not really an improvement, I’d say water’s a bit superfluous, except it does let a hint of lemon liqueur peek through. Finish: long and rather perfect, even turning slightly salty in the end. Comments: I wouldn’t call this a peat monster, but I do call it excellent.
SGP:654 - 90 points. |
Let’s finish a little further north… |
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Smögen 10 yo 2014/2025 (59.1%, WDC, Sweden, 1st Fill Four Roses barrel, cask #13, 198 bottles)
WDC stands for Wu Dram Clan, a trio of deeply terrifying and barely tolerable individuals—but with an undeniable knack for picking cracking casks of whisky and other spirits. Colour: straw. Nose: peated malt porridge, the kind you might be served for breakfast on Islay. Smells incredibly of sea air—a classic descriptor, yes, but here it REALLY does smell like proper sea air. With water: add some olive oil to the mix. Mouth (neat): straight to the olives. Then mussels, oysters, whelks and razor clams. With water: these people are truly infuriating. But my, this is good. Finish: taster on strike, apologies. After all, we’re French. Comments: might have to file a complaint, this simply shouldn’t be allowed to taste this good.
SGP:466 - 92 points. |
Joking aside, Smögen, with very few exceptions, is now even more clearly among Europe’s top ten in my book. While indeed, we’re counting all the British Isles as part of Europe, at least geographically. |
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September 11, 2025 |
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Forres Face-Off: Benromach vs Dallas Dhu |
A small tasting that makes little sense, except geographically, as both distilleries are located in Forres. Moreover, both whiskies come from the Gordon & MacPhail stable. A project by Aceo to restart Dallas Dhu using as much of the original equipment as possible still appears to be under consideration or even planning, but the distillery is already open to visitors once again. |
Dallas Dhu (AI) |
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Benromach 20 yo 2003/2023 (57.7%, OB for LMDW Singapore exclusive, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #48, 189 bottles)
We love Benromach in ex-bourbon, now a safe bet, especially compared to some of their few slightly more… um, creative, oak-heavy offerings. Colour: pale gold. Nose: the power and near-maritime purity, certainly saline, of a Benromach left to its own devices in a well-behaved cask. Tiny touches of mint and fir buds atop a bed of oysters and seaweed. Plus some boot polish. With water: nail varnish and solvents come charging in, along with a bit of fresh butter. Mouth (neat) very powerful, nearly sharp, but oily and downright salty. Grape seed oil and a touch of concentrated lemon. With water: becomes a little more aerial, more coastal again, with those oysters now laced with lemon juice making a bold return. Let’s say two dozen. Finish: long, waxier still, some smoke, and even a tiny olive popping up at the very end to bid you farewell. Comments: hugely impressive, one of my favourite malts—I mean this style of 20-year-old ex-bourbon Benromach in general. The only flaw, it’s not exactly a surprise, boo.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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Dallas Dhu 50 yo 1971/2021 (59.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection, refill American oak hogshead, cask #694, 56 bottles)
Tasted thanks to Stephen Rankin, via Angus, though in the peace and quiet of Château WF. That said, this isn’t the only very old Dallas Dhu we’ve sampled, but it’s true the 50-year-old 1969 from the same series left us a little less impressed, whereas this 1971—into which we’ve already dipped our lips—left us rather gobsmacked. So, let’s revisit it a touch more calmly… Colour: deep gold. Nose: age in all its full glory, instantly obvious on the nose but without any of the slight drawbacks one sometimes finds in very old malts—too much oak, excessive dustiness, and the like. Let’s say we’re dealing with a very classic composition, executed to perfection, with honeys, panettone, roasted figs, and just the faintest earthy undertone (celeriac) and one or two fir buds again. With water: water draws out the fir, fern, and mossy side… But the base remains on those powerful honeys, such as chestnut or forest honeydew. Mouth (neat): we haven’t enough experience to recognise Dallas Dhu on the first sip, but it’s true that this feels rather different, especially extremely oily, a bit in the style of, say, the best Fettercairns. A touch of pepper and quite a bit of chilli oil, all laid over a marvellously honeyed and fruity structure. With water: the whole thing relaxes and becomes fruitier and more bitter, a bit like a famous red-coloured Italian amaro, though naturally more subtle. That said, we’re not about to try it in a spritz, are we, even with Dom Pérignon. Finish: the oak becomes a little more pronounced, as one would expect, but all the honeyed and resinous notes (we know, they come from the wood) still hold the fort. Comments: of course, it’s quite a touch pricier than the Benromach, but really, this is a 50-year-old Dallas Dhu!
SGP:571 - 92 points. |
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September 10, 2025 |
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A wee trio of independent Longmorns |
A distillery we almost visited quite a few years ago, but the reception at their main site the day before had been so problematic that the visit was cancelled. And yet, we had with us friends who had come especially from Japan and even the west coast of Scotland (ha), bottles from the 19th century, and even the BBC — camera, microphone, journalist and all. It took us a while to get over it, but never mind, we've long since forgiven them. |
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Longmorn 11 yo (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice Spring 2025 edition, 1st Fill Barrel)
Colour: straw. Nose: straightforward and unpretentious, as if assembled without fanfare. Fruit tarts, syrups, sponge cakes, yellow plums… not quite the kind of aroma one commits to memory, but it’s cheerful enough while it lasts. Mouth: a likeable young malt whisky, fruity, nicely balanced, pleasantly malty, with no jagged edges nor any signs of precociousness. Finish: much the same, though it does start to unravel somewhat, turning oddly dry and herbal, almost as if it suddenly remembered it had somewhere else to be. Comments: in this instance, one does wonder what Messrs Equinox and Solstice had in mind, as this feels a tiny touch superfluous, particularly on the palate. Perhaps not totally up to the very high standards usually set by the house. We’d much rather revisit last time’s superb Glen Ord, and after all, let the bottler who has never produced a slightly less-than-sparkling bottle throw the first one!
SGP:441 - 80 points. |
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Longmorn 16 yo 2008/2025 ‘An Old Giant’ (53%, The Dramming Lads, hogshead + 1st fill oloroso quarter, 121 bottles)
Colour: reddish amber. Nose: peach jam and a great big bag of sultanas. A rather endearingly cooked-winey character, very old-school and quite likeable. With water: old cardboard, vintage pipe tobacco, aged Burgundy wines; this ‘antique’ side is utterly charming, reminiscent of the profiles found in very old bottles of blends. Faint hints of aniseed coming through later on. Mouth (neat): mildly soapy touches at first, then oils, before veering off towards pink grapefruit. Plenty going on here. With water: that antique side persists. Finish: same story. Comments: a curious wee beastie that seems to have been OBE-ed (not knighted!) from birth.
SGP:441 - 82 points. |
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Longmorn 16 yo 2008/2025 (53.4%, Maltbarn, sherry cask, 177 bottles)
From a small high-end outfit that knows how to nurture a great bottle and a love for handsome labels. Colour: gold. Nose: apples, pears, plums and beeswax. A touch of flint. With water: full-on mead, which, let me remind you, was the nectar of the Greek gods. Mouth (neat): a sharp, incisive, lemony attack, then it unfolds over fruity beer, IPAs and damson tart generously dusted with ground cinnamon… With water: absolutely beautiful, even if not overly complex. A hint of cardboard but glorious cooked orchard fruits, especially apple and quince compote. Finish: medium length, well balanced, on fruity beer. Comments: perhaps not one of the great Longmorns from the 60s or 70s, but it’s still a very, very lovely thing.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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September 9, 2025 |
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Ten Macallans, both official and independent ones
Although the distillery – or rather, the brand – has become something of a symbol of poshness and glitz, every tasting reminds us that it still maintains a high level of quality and deserves to be taken seriously, despite the endless stream of NAS bottlings with sometimes far-fetched stories and themes. In any case, as Suetonius said, “Veritas in poculo est.” The truth is in the glass… Let’s begin with two small official NAS bottlings, then…
(Suetonius, Nuremberg Chronicle, 1493) |
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Macallan ‘Jing’ (43.9%, OB, The Harmony Collection, 2024)
An expression drawn from American and European oak casks seasoned with sherry and ex-bourbon, inspired by Phoenix Honey Orchid Tea, a Chinese oolong offered by tea merchants called ‘Jing’ (whom we didn’t know, mind you). We’re supposed to find notes of peach, orchid and honey, or so they say, although figuratively of course. We had rather enjoyed ‘Vibrant Oak’, while the other ‘Harmony’ offerings left us a little more indifferent. Colour: gold. Nose: the oak is a little prominent at first, as is often the case with many contemporary official malts, but the marmalade and maltiness quickly come through. Then lots of damsons and stewed cherries. There is indeed also a faint touch of rose petal, which may well be the aforementioned orchid. Mouth: nothing to complain about here, it’s good, initially on honey, citrus zest and ginger, then comes the speculoos and quite simply cinnamon. And I can’t help but detect a little tea, somewhat drying as well, though that’s quite common with malts matured in fairly active casks. Finish: fairly long, rather on bitter oranges, candied cherries, chocolate and dried raisins. A hint of coffee at the end, that must be from the casks too. Comments: I find this really quite good and will now start taking more interest in ‘Jing’.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
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Macallan ‘Classic Cut 2025’ (50.6%, OB) 
There’s a new edition each year, and I suppose we ought to follow them all, but we don’t. Not out of principle, it’s just turned out that way. That said, the last one we tried, the 2020, really was far too oaky (WF 78). Colour: gold. Nose: so far, it’s close to Jing, the cask make-up seems fairly similar, though perhaps a touch more herbal, with ale and fresh malt coming through. Nothing to complain about at this stage. With water: marmalade and a little honey, this is charming. Perhaps not €150-charming, but charming. Mouth (neat): same remarks, we’re not far from Jing again but there’s fresh oak in fairly generous quantities, though that’s offset rather nicely by citrus which brings a certain tension. With water: the label claims ‘A multisensory myriad of dynamic and evolving flavours are unveiled with the addition of water’, so let’s see. Evolves towards light earthy notes, still oaky and chocolatey. Dark chocolate. The oak remains a little present… Finish: medium length, with a return of the ale and the malt, and a woody-honeyed aftertaste. Pine wood notes, and even a touch of thyme. Comments: I find it better than some of the previous editions I’ve managed to taste.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
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Speyside (M) 15 yo 2009/2025 ‘Small Batch Edition #19’ (48.2%, Signatory Vintage, 1st & 2nd fill oloroso sherry butt)
The contest might seem a bit lopsided, let’s admit it. But of course this isn’t OB vs. IB, not at all. Colour: golden amber. Nose: this is ‘darker’ than the OBs, with more raisins, toasted walnuts, chestnut honey, a few Mars bars, and dark turron… Personally, I enjoy this, even if for now it hasn’t veered towards the meaty, the herbal, or the bouillony… Mouth: this time the spices take centre stage—caraway, star anise, cinnamon and above all nutmeg and coriander seeds. It’s all rather lovely but it does somewhat push back the softness of the chocolate, honey and raisins. On the other hand, the dark chocolate stands out more. Finish: long, with the arrival of bitter oranges, very bitter indeed. Aftertaste strongly marked by cumin and nutmeg. Comments: not the most classic of styles, but of course I like it. That said, we haven’t overtaken the new OBs yet. Still, we’re talking a third of the price…
SGP:561 - 84 points. |
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Speyside (M) 15 yo 2009/2025 ‘Small Batch Edition #18’ (48.2%, Signatory Vintage, 1st & 2nd fill oloroso sherry butt)
A marginally earlier edition, but one showing similar characteristics. Colour: golden amber. Nose: this feels a little rounder, with sunflower oil, but otherwise it’s quite similar. Milk chocolate rather than dark, shall we say. Mouth: there’s slightly less spice here, indeed, and we’re closer to chocolate with citrus. A touch of pink grapefruit, which is fun. And pink pepper while we’re at it. Finish: fairly long, once again close to #19, but without the barrage of spice. Comments: truth be told, we’re extremely close, but as they say, one could drink a double magnum of each, head-to-head, and still not be entirely sure they’re really different. Are they? Let’s say we slightly prefer this one, but that’s even more arbitrary than usual.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
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Speyside (M) 14 yo 2010/2025 ‘Small Batch Edition #16’ (48.2%, Signatory Vintage, 1st & 2nd fill oloroso sherry butt)
Colour: golden amber. Nose: this time we’re getting quite a bit of resinous honey, fir honeydew for instance, along with more freshness—orange peel and citron zest. Also a faint floral note. Mouth: the style of the previous ones is clearly present, very marked by oak spices, especially cumin and clove. Slightly terpene-like. Lovely honey, nice herbal infusions. Adding water… doesn’t change much, let’s move on. Finish: long, herbal, with green spices in the style of #19. Nice aftertaste on almonds and kirsch. Comments: let’s not start the double-magnum debate again. Of course we’re very close.
SGP:461 - 84 points. |
Let’s have a look at a big brother… |
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Speyside (M) 18 yo 2005/2024 (57.7%, Signatory Vintage for World of Whisky Waldhaus 25th Anniversary, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt, cask #17/A106#35, 642 bottles)
Colour: full gold. Nose: how to put it—this is immediately more complex, on oils, sesame, hazelnut, pistachio, then freshly malted malt and almond liqueur. The sherry is surprisingly discreet, but it’s definitely there, lurking in the background. With water: glorious touches of metal polish, which we just love. Bruised apples. Mouth (neat): oh oui, yes, ja, claro—earthy oranges absolutely everywhere. Plus some spearmint and a really lovely fennel-dill combo. A small hint of coconut. The sherry remains well in the background. With water: still earthy—roots, mushrooms, fallen fruits, damp leaves… Finish: it carries on with soft oils, almond paste, a few tiny raisins… Comments: rather a fine bottle, quite ‘different’, no doubt from a fairly ‘different’ butt. By the way, if you’re ever in St. Moritz, Switzerland, do stop by the Waldhaus Hotel to (figuratively) plunder their incredible whisky bar.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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Marketing Malt 16 yo 2008/2024 (53%, Decadent Drinks, first fill sherry hogshead, 349 bottles)
Strictly speaking, there’s nothing on this label that wouldn’t suggest we’re dealing with an ‘M’. Colour: red amber. Nose: the kinship with the earlier indies is fairly obvious, only here we’re getting a few more stewed fruits—mostly damsons but also a few strawberries—and a sherry that edges slightly toward rancio. Amusing medicinal notes in the background, including camphor. Some pepper too. With water: touches of old wine cellar. And we do love old wine cellars, even more than the Sistine Chapel. Mouth (neat): it does feel a bit Christmassy, sorry—spices, ginger, star anise, caraway, heather honey, a touch of rum and caramel, pipe tobacco… With water: the word is out—fruitcake! But also some rather curious touches of dried fish. This M is really quite protean. Finish: fairly long, on tobacco and also those maritime notes. A little leather. Comments: it’s got as many curious angles as the Waldhaus, only they’re just not the same ones.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
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Secret Speyside (M) 30 yo 1993/2024 (49.7%, Casky Hong Kong, Finest Selection, 7th Anniversary, sherry hogshead)
The whisky scene in the bay is truly remarkable—and no, we’re not talking about San Francisco Bay. Colour: dark amber. Nose: here’s a fine example of a mature spirit crossing paths with other categories—cognac, rum and the like. Peach and apricot jam and liqueur, a touch of wild mango, the softest of fudges, raisins, various honeys, a dab of beeswax polish… this really does smell of time, and time is the main ingredient in all great aged spirits, is it not. Mouth: sumptuous, very (too?) marked by dried fruits and sweet old wines—we’re getting close to old Rivesaltes, sweet Madeira, PX or even white Port. We happen to adore all that, so the impact here is 100% on us. Perhaps those who enjoy Coca Zero (hint, nod) might be less convinced. Finish: not terribly long, but the mere fact that these flavours, now joined by a little pink and black pepper, carry on at all is already great news. Comments: Château Macallan at its finest. A beautiful sherry, even if it was ‘only’ a hoggie.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
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Macallan 30 yo 1990/2021 (58.3%, Gourmet Pool, Germany, hogshead, cask #7394, 61 bottles)
Small outturn, big whisky, as Confucius once said during a momentary lapse of reason, a sentiment later revived with some success and not a little sorrow by Pink Floyd (S., stop the whisky). Colour: gold. Nose: we’re close to those old-school Macallans, especially the 30yo blue label, or indeed the 1970 18yo—sheer splendour. Gentle earthiness, walnuts, mushrooms, dried raisins, pipe tobacco, apricots, truffle, dried figs… You see where we’re going, textbook classic style from the great era. With water: rather glorious, on beeswax polish, oranges, honeys and blond tobacco. And let’s not forget our old friends the sultanas. Mouth (neat): good old times indeed, with honey, figs and oranges taking the lead, quite simply. With water: … and the sultanas… Finish: what was also so lovely in these old Macallans were those tiny salty touches that added real dimension to the whole. Just like here. And the waxes. Comments: of course…
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
Just to be sure, and to wrap things up, let’s dip into some older vintages… |
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Macallan 18 yo 1975/1993 (54.4%, Wilson & Morgan, Barrel Selection, hogshead, cask #8880, 248 bottles)
We’re now entering the tail end of the truly seminal years for the distillery, though we’re still clearly within them. Colour: gold. Nose: how about a banana cake discreetly drizzled with a little rum, alongside a mirabelle and honey tart? Then add some peanut butter, dried fig and vintage English blond tobacco, and you’ll have a fair idea of the beauty of this lovely liquid. With water: add faint notes of damp paper, old books and beeswax. Mouth (neat): oh yes, here comes a procession of lively, aromatic little herbs, mainly lemongrass and peppermint. All carried by honey cake and wine-soaked figs. With water: this glides into all the beehive things—typical of a great hoggie that knew how to behave. Pollen, wax, honeys… Finish: not very long but of infinite delicacy, with lemon blossom honey and still those little waxy notes. A tiny pinch of salt at the end, as a kind of signature. Comments: its overall delicacy may mean it isn’t clearly superior to the others, but good grief, how utterly delicious this was.
SGP:551 - 90 points. |
I think that’ll do for this time. More Macallan coming soon. |
(Merci to KC and Sebastian) |
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September 8, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today two Glenallachie
We missed them during our last Glenallachie session two or three weeks ago…
(Nougat from Provence with almonds and black olives — an absolute knockout, I could eat three tonnes of it a day. Courtesy of L'Espérantine de Marseille.) |
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Glenallachie 2014/2025 ‘Sinteis Series Part 1’ (57.8%, OB, virgin Chinquapin oak & PX cask)
The use of very active casks on youthful distillates continues to intensify, but we’re rather pleased to see they’ve not gone down the NAS route. Chinquapin oak, aka Chinkapin, aka Quercus muehlenbergii, aka yellow oak, is a variety of American white oak first popularised by Glenmorangie quite a few years ago. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it’s the international festival of crème brûlée and soft brown sugar, soon joined by speculoos biscuits and proper custard. With water: more of that caramelised, vanilla-forward oak emerges, but thankfully it stops short of the carpenter’s bench. Mouth (neat): sharper on the palate, starting on ginger and white pepper wrapped in orange marmalade, with wee touches of turmeric and cumin in the background. With water: an avalanche of nougat with a hefty dose of honey and spices. Finish: long, sweet and spicy at once, like a peppery marmalade. Comments: the beams are showing a little, as they say, but this is very good indeed.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
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Glenallachie 15 yo 2009/2025 (65.6% Signatory Vintage, Symington’s Choice, 1st fill oloroso, cask #900864, 570 bottles)
Many a splendid malt has already emerged from this rather discerning series by Signatory. Colour: amber. Nose: naturally more on the sherry, with walnuts, chocolate, a box of cigars… and quite a bit of ethanol, though it remains curiously soft altogether. With water: caramel tart, millionaire’s shortbread and a family pack of assorted toffees. And some raisins too, as expected, though kept in check. Mouth (neat): very powerful indeed, but again, surprisingly easy to down at 65%. We’re speaking of a drop or two at a time, mind you. Gorgeous salted butter caramel wrapped in orange cream and dark chocolate, or something in that ballpark. Hints of rum and the walnuts aren’t far either. With water: the savoury/umami side of the oloroso now takes the stage. Lovely notes of bitter orange. Finish: long and drier, on dark tobacco, salty touches and lime. It’s very lifted. Comments: magnificent sherry, by turns sweet and dry.
SGP:562 - 87 points. |
Bonus, this other oloroso-ed one just in… |
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Glenallachie 13 yo 2011/2025 (61.8%, OB for Tiffany’s New York Bar and Whisky Lovers Hong Kong, oloroso hogshead, cask #805001, 355 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: a few hints of new plank wood right at the start, but they quickly blend into notes of raisins and marmalade, then the oak melts away entirely, as the whole shifts more and more towards nocino and those orange liqueurs one finds in countries, erm, where orange trees actually grow. Nein, that’s not quite that obvious in all cases. With water: have you ever tasted soft white nougat with bits of black olive inside? It’s rather fabulous, you find some of that down in Provence, and you get a whiff of those aromas here in this Glenallachie. Mouth (neat): very powerful and compact, yet also very honeyed. Spiced honey, especially with cinnamon and ginger, which works extremely well. With water: this amusing profile halfway between sherry and ex-bourbon, with a marked presence of oak spices, while the rest clings to honey and orange liqueur. Finish: long, sweet and spicy at once. Comments: lovely ‘modern’ style in this excellent young Glenallachie for Hong Kong.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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September 7, 2025 |
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A few more rums to try and hold on to summer |
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Luisita in Tarlac, Philippines, single estate rum |
It’s true that last Sunday, we went from 9 to 91 points without so much as a blink, quite an unusual gap in a tasting session, even in a category as broad and varied as rum. Today, we’ll try to take fewer risks. |
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Blue Mauritius 'Gold' (40%, OB, blend, +/-2024) 
Since 2012’ they claim on the label. Well, we did try one of the earlier batches back in 2013 and found it decent enough (WF 72). Right, those 40% aren’t exactly screaming greatness… Colour: gold. Nose: buckets of pineapple liqueur drizzled with vanilla and a hint of coconut. That’s more or less the whole show, but it’s really not dreadful at all, even if the palate’s looming with some concern… Mouth: extremely sweet, positively liqueur-like, banana foam sweets, more pineapple liqueur by the ladleful, and an overwhelming amount of sugar. Finish: long, alas, much too sugary. Comments: I’ve just checked, and just like last week’s Don Papa, this one turns out to be a ‘spirit drink’ too. I suppose there’s far too much sugar in there to legally call it rum. That said, I did prefer it back in 2013. Still, I’m quite sure it’d do alright over ice…
SGP:820 – 50 points. |
Since we're embracing the strange, as we say here… |
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Samai ‘Kampot Pepper’ (41%, OB, Cambodia, +/-2024) 
The Samai ‘Gold’ was jolly good indeed (WF 84), hence our decision to take a punt on this ‘Kampot’. Kampot pepper, as it happens, is a rather well-regarded variety of peppercorn grown down in Cambodia’s Kampot province. Colour: pale gold. Nose: how utterly charming! Nothing at all like last week’s Don Papa ‘Alon’—this one’s crisp and refreshing, with elements that might remind one of some very posh gins, though of course we know next to nothing about gin. Even if, over at WF Towers, we did crank out a fair number of litres of our own gin last year, delightfully named ‘Gin Genie’. One couldn’t possibly make that up. Mouth: pity, the sugar takes over a bit too much for my taste, which is a shame, as the underlying structure is really rather delightful. Think fennel, pink pepper and lime. A real shame about the generous dosing of sugar—mind you, I’m not saying there shouldn’t be any at all. Finish: long, sweet, leaning more into citrus now. Comments: we’ll certainly be keeping an eye on this Kampot pepper, if not on this little spiced rum itself. That said, let’s not forget we’ve also already encountered some superb Samai in the LMDW ‘Flags’ series—it bears remembering.
SGP:740 – 72 points. |
From now on, we'll need to be careful not to stumble upon those spiced rums by accident, they're really not our thing... |
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Havana Club 'Especial' (37.5%, OB, Cuba, +/-2025) 
We’ve already tasted some Añejo Especials at 40 or even 45%, but never a version simply labelled ‘Especial’ and bottled at 37.5%, as distributed in France in this instance. At that rate, one does wonder what exactly is so ‘Especial’ about it… That said, it’s clearly intended for Cuba Libres, as the back label candidly states. Colour: full gold. Nose: hey, this isn’t bad at all, with some rather lovely spicing—star anise comes to mind—alongside molasses honey, ginger biscuits and a wee touch of cinnamon. There’s even a subtle whisper of pineapple. Honestly, the nose isn’t half bad. Mouth: sweet, that much is certain, but I imagine it still slips in just under the good old European Union’s legal sugar threshold. It feels a little hollow, to be fair, no doubt owing to the reduced strength, and although the notes of cane honey, banana and speculoos are pleasant enough, the sweetness does begin to smother things a tad. Finish: short, but even sweeter. Comments: you know the mantra, ‘perhaps over a lot of crushed ice’, but to be fair, this one’s perfectly decent. Incidentally, their museum in Havana is rather brilliant, I think.
SGP:731 – 65 points. |
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Luisita ‘Casa’ (58%, OB, Philippines, small batch, +/-2024)
Caution, Luisita may hail from the Philippines but has nothing whatsoever to do with Don Papa. We’ve already tasted some rather good ones from this house. This particular expression is 5 years of age but is said to contain older parcels from the 1990s, high-ester no less. Anyway, let’s see if your casa is my casa (too easy, S.) Colour: pale gold. Nose: on the nose it’s rather on the oily side, with notes of sesame oil, fresh cane juice and the odd touch of liquorice. It does seem a bit locked up by the high strength though. With water: it really opens up on slightly fermented cane juice with just a few dabs of boot polish. Mouth (neat): the esters leap out right away, it’s very much on olives and concentrated lemon juice, with a precise, zesty sharpness that we’re quite fond of. With water: a complete volte-face into the world of tangy fruit sweets. A hint of coffee too. Finish: same neck of the woods, fresh cane and lemon. Comments: a truly lovely rum, delicate and rather subtle but sometimes also roaring. A proper Filipino rum, in short.
SGP:451 – 84 points. |
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Marie-Galante 23 mo 2022/2024 (59.7%, Spirit of the Day, agricole, 262 bottles)
They clearly couldn’t wait the extra month to make it a full 2 years, that’s the kind of spirit we like. So then, Bellevue? Bielle? Père Labat/Poisson? Colour: white wine. Nose: cane juice and gentian, with a touch of pink pepper and caraway. With water: modelling clay starts to push through, along with a modest dose of engine grease and little notes of fresh new tyres… Mouth (neat): excellent, feels not unlike a fruit eau-de-vie—rowanberry or holly perhaps—but salted and again underpinned by gentian. With water: the balance between cane, roots and salt is just spot-on. One might almost believe sugarcane was a root (just kidding, obviously). Finish: fairly long but gentle, with flashes that recall agricole rums from… Madeira. Comments: it’s hard to go more spirit-driven than this, and yet there’s clearly been some thoughtful ageing at play. Spot on.
SGP:562 – 87 points. |
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South Africa 4 yo 2019/2024 (59.7%, La Maison du Whisky, Flag Series, agricole, 270 bottles)
Mhoba, of course—or at least we presume as much—which would be splendid news as we’re rather fond of Mhoba. This is an agricole-style rum, made from hand-cut local cane. Colour: full gold. Nose: not one for everyone, as it’s massively acetic, but that’s perfect for us, as we adore this sort of thing and might just see about acquiring any remaining stock. Vinegars galore, balsamic up front, then carbon and brine. It’s almost as if the Jamaicans decided to make high-ester rum from fresh cane juice instead of molasses. With water: calms down just a touch. Mouth (neat): superb salty-vinegary tension, with wildly overripe fruits playing backup. With water: no real fundamental change on the palate. Finish: long, ultimately fairly simple, but so beautiful we couldn’t care less. Comments: one caveat, it’s not terribly fond of dilution, which flattens it slightly, so do mind the watering.
SGP:663 – 89 points. |
I think we’ve outfoxed ourselves, only a Jamaican could top this likely Mhoba… |
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Monymusk 24 yo 1999/2024 ‘MPG’ (57.4%, Rest & Be Thankful for Navigate World Whisky South Africa, 283 bottles)
The MPG marque sits around the 100g/hlpa ester mark, but it bears repeating that so-called lighter marques can sometimes feel heavier than heavier ones. Are you following me? Colour: pale gold. Nose: actually rather delicate, on vineyard peaches and a faint smokiness reminiscent of fresh tarmac, then blood orange and pink banana, with hibiscus syrup and jasmine tea not far behind. It’s all exceedingly elegant. With water: fresh mango absolutely bursts out, lightly wrapped in a touch of tar. Mouth (neat): more punch and drive on the palate, this is gorgeous stuff. It oddly brings Highland Park to mind—even if totally unrelated—then shifts towards seawater and even lemon-dressed oysters. Excellent. With water: mango returns once more, but everything remains delightfully crisp and fresh. Finish: long, increasingly saline, with citrus and passion fruit coming to the fore. Still superb. Comments: these so-called ‘low-ester’ Monymusks can be astonishingly pure and refreshing. A brilliant South African duel between the Mhoba and this Monymusk that, indeed, was bottled for ZA, and both have walked away with top honours.
SGP:652 – 90 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted
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September 5, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today, Glen Spey |
We continue our relentless exploration of somewhat obscure Scottish distilleries—at least, those that are rarely promoted by their owners. It’s often a chance to discover that their whiskies are excellent and have nothing to envy from the big names that are much better known and, more often than not… rather a tad pretentious and very faintly arrogant at least some of them Hmm. Glen Spey is at the heart of J&B and is therefore supposed to be a light malt. In theory…
('When the nose said yes, it's yes.' French press advert for J&B from 1991, featuring Jim Milne, master blender. A very traditional theme, seen elsewhere of course - Johnnie Walker, etc.) |
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Glen Spey 11 yo 2013/2025 (57.7%, James Eadie, Cask Finish, cask #373070, 221 bottles)
20 months in first fill European oak oloroso sherry butt here. Colour: amber. Nose: nicely done, on dried raisins that aren’t ‘too fruity’ and walnut cake, pecans, Brazil nuts etc. There’s a rather ‘simple’ side to it that we rather enjoy, even if subtle touches of rose, lemon balm and peppermint begin to emerge little by little, giving it a slight ‘stroll through the garden’ feel. With water: faint notes of forest floor, humus, mushrooms, tobacco… Mouth (neat): very caramelly, Mars bars, millionaire’s shortbread, molasses honey, honey-and-raisin cereal bar and the rest. It’s really very moreish. With water: not much change here, the spices remain gentle and the whole feels quite rounded and charming. Worth noting, it can take on implausible quantities of water. Finish: rather long, still rounded and sweet, honeyed, and still adorned with gentle spices. A drop of ginger liqueur. Comments: this is very very very good. Frankly, one wouldn’t immediately think of J&B, talking about its lightness here..
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
More oloroso, but this time in American oak… |
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Glen Spey 14 yo 2010/2025 (57.5%, Single Cask Nation, 1st fill American oak oloroso hogshead)
May I take this opportunity to remind you that when it comes to sherry casks, American oak is the rule and European oak the exception. Indeed, it’s rather counterintuitive. Colour: full gold. Nose: very similar aromatic territory, though here we’re leaning more towards dried and candied fruits, with subtler spices and a lovely soft liquorice. Splendid orange liqueur with honey, dried figs, white nougat, sweet wine like a muscat (a sweet one, muscat isn’t always sweet) or late-harvest gewurztraminer… In fact, it’s an extremely friendly nose. With water: little change, it just becomes even more approachable. Mouth (neat): a fantastic cocktail of honeyed liqueurs, with a clear, direct, irresistible side. I believe this baby could replace honey in your yoghurts, pastries, tisanes, over your pancakes etc. For a wee kick that instantly lifts the spirit and soothes your worries and fits of rage. Please don’t quote me to your local health authorities. With water: it joins its 2013 sibling in terms of style. Finish: long, gentle, honeyed, extremely moreish. Comments: a superb honeyed sweetness and a malt that should appeal to absolutely everyone.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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September 4, 2025 |
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A small selection of independent Glenglassaugh |
I think it's been quite a while since we last tasted Glenglassaugh. We're hoping to come across some new official releases in Paris, London or Hamburg, but in the meantime, let's enjoy these little indie bottlings, no doubt full of character... Just a heads-up, though: there are a few peated versions floating about.
(Glenglassaugh + AI) |
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Glenglassaugh 13 yo 2011/2024 ‘Peated’ (52.8%, Milroy’s Soho Selection, 1st fill palo cortado hogshead)
And here comes a peated version. Colour: amber. Nose: well then, here we are with tar, roasted chestnuts, toasted semolina and even exhaust fumes (we’re speaking of nothing less than an Italian eight-cylinder). Frankly, the peat is doing a fine tango with the dry sherry. With water: it rounds off a little but remains, shall we say, vibratory. Wee smells of an old petrol station. Mouth (neat): rather massive yet curiously brisk, with salty hints and grapefruit over a layer of pistachio, roasted pecans and the much-anticipated walnuts. Once again, everything dances together very well indeed. With water: in comes the mustard, also keenly awaited, to complete this thoroughly Jerezian picture. Finish: very long, drifting towards Italian bitters that would pair marvellously with that famed eight-cylinder. Fresh saline touches lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: a splendid young trio – Glenglassaugh plus peat plus palo cortado. To stay in tune, one thinks of De Lucia + Di Meola + McLaughlin. Nothing less.
SGP:466 - 89 points. |
Maybe we're starting off too high, what do you think…? |
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Glenglassaugh 12 yo 2011/2023 (55.3%, Milroy’s Soho Selection, 1st fill PX)
No peat this time, apparently. So, we took a little break before tackling this baby. Colour: bright amber. Nose: we’re quite far from the syrupy explosion one might have expected, instead there’s a touch of old tin box (and whoever dares say that’s the same as an Italian V8 will have to answer to my Italian friends). Figs and raisins, Darjeeling-style black tea, equally dark chocolate, air-dried meat in the style of Grisons… With water: oddly enough, one gets coal tar, fresh tarmac, and an old granddad’s pipe… Mouth (neat): properly punchy, but some orange zest lifts it all nicely, along with pepper, tobacco, leather… It’s crying out for water. With water: we’ve tamed it, though only just. Plenty of candied peel chopped up cassata-style, still with sultanas, still with tobacco. Finish: long, slightly salty again, certainly peppery. The tobacco simply won’t let go. Comments: not quite as wham-bam as the peated version, but still absolutely excellent.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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Glenglassaugh 10 yo 2014 (58.6%, Alister Walker’s Infrequent Flyers, Sauternes hogshead finish, cask #2369, 309 bottles)
Here too, we’d never come across a Sauternes hogshead, so either it was a hogshead seasoned with Sauternes, or a Sauternes barrique re-coopered into a hoggie. The ways of coopers are impenetrable… Colour: deep gold. Nose: we’re in similar territory to the Milroy’s PX, with a metallic touch at first but then quickly veering towards citrus, apricots, floral tisanes, ripe and tinned peaches… It’s a lovely nose, no doubt about that. We know Sauternes can work rather well. With water: but this is apricot jam with honey and whisky! Mouth (neat): the gentlest of the three, the fruitiest, the most nougat-forward, with orange cake, fudge, baked apples… With water: the sweetness and slightly jammy edge from the Sauternes, I presume, does the job. Honey, mirabelles, apricots, white nougat… Finish: same again, it’s a real liqueur, in the most positive sense of the word. Comments: we’ve done all this in completely the wrong order in terms of aromatic progression, I’m a little ashamed. I shouldn’t have ranked them by ABV. At any rate, this rather gentle baby is also excellent.
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
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September 3, 2025 |
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Two Kilkerran from Glengyle
It takes quite a bit of effort to keep up with what these admirable people are doing, generally speaking, because nothing seems to happen normally in Campbeltown. But that’s precisely what appeals to my French side, we, too, never really do anything like anyone else. In fact, we often get frustrated with ourselves and consume unbelievable amounts of tranquillisers. Or wine. Or whisky… Indeed just like in Campbeltown. |
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Kilkerran ‘Heavily Peated Batch 12’ (58.4%, OB, 2025)
Batch 11 from 2024 had been superb (WF 87) and in any case, we've resolved to follow these batches through thick and thin. Colour: straw. Nose: we're immediately very close to smoked barley, citron peel, bread dough, iodine tincture, oysters and massage balm, something in the vein of Voltarol. One can only think of Lagavulin 12 SR. With water: zero development, everything was already present from the start. Perhaps a few touches of soaked plaster. Mouth (neat): it's terrific how simple and how excellent this is. Warm, packed with barley, grist, husks, anything you might wish for post-processing, all of it smoked over beechwood and salted with Himalayan salt (alright, that's a bit much). With water: the citrus surges forth but coastal salinity keeps everything under control. Finish: long, tense, more fermentary. The apparent youth is making itself known. Comments: I get the feeling these versions are becoming peatier and peatier, though I could be wrong.
SGP:456 - 87 points. |
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Kilkerran 17 yo 2007/2024 (54.8%, OB, 20th anniversary opening of Glengyle Distillery, refill sherry hogshead, 244 bottles)
It took us ages to get through the 15th Anniversary releases (USA, Japan...) so you can imagine, we're practically ahead of schedule here. Colour: gold. Nose: smoky oils at first, mostly sesame, then a rounder profile leaning more towards the nutty side of the heavily peated range. Behind that, quite a bit of sea water but also a curious waxed cardboard and burnt paper note that feels slightly out of place in this context. Curious indeed. With water: ah no, water flattens it quite a bit, and the burnt cardboard pushes to the fore. Mouth (neat): we're not miles away from the HPB12, but the salted citrus is far more prominent. There’s a rather sharp edge, in fact, but also a slightly tannic, drying side. Walnut skins. With water: we lose our way a bit, gives the impression it might be best to avoid water altogether. Finish: long, heading towards salted ham, but also a hint of paint. I get the feeling it likes water even less than the five cats we have at Château WF. Comments: it’s very good but I struggled slightly with this baby. That must be me. Batch 12 any time.
SGP:465 - 84 points. |
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September 2, 2025 |
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World Whiskies, Session #4,567,126
We joke, of course, but whiskies from around the world are now pouring in, and it’s not so easy to find them a place on this modest website, which is more used to comparing Glendullan to Mannochmore, or Ardbeg 1974 vs 1975. You see what I mean. Still, it’s a breath of fresh air, at times improbable, at times daunting, but undoubtedly progressing steadily. Okay, it’s all a bit politically correct, I admit, but let’s get on with it, starting with France, as usual… |
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Domaine des Hautes Glaces 'Epistémé R15C25 carré' (47%, OB, France, Rye, 666 bottles, 2025)
The treasure hunt continues, with a devilish bottle count! It spent a little time in new oak, the rest in ex-Cognac, in the manner of... Cognacs. Colour: pale gold. Nose: but it’s smoky! Rye bread that’s been through the hearth, caraway, sweet gentian, celery, carrot… It’s all very amusing and really rather lovely. Mouth: the earthy and rooty theme carries on, we’re unearthing improbable rhizomes and small forgotten root vegetables—think salsify or parsnip—yet we’re all for it, this is a spirit that truly expresses the soil beneath, and that’s not something one encounters too often. Continues on mustard and horseradish, but in a gentle and balanced register. Finish: good length, with salty thrusts that could almost evoke an Alpine gazpacho. I know what I mean. Comments: this is smashing stuff, and above all, extraordinarily distinctive, much in the style of truly artisanal mezcals.
SGP:472 - 89 points. |
We’re heading to Brittany… |
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Armorik 12 yo 2011/2024 (55%, OB, France, LMDW Foundations, refill bourbon barrel, cask #926, 280 bottles)
The pioneer of French whiskies, following Clayssens in Wambrechies in the North where they were more into grain. Colour: gold. Nose: I do hope I shan’t offend anyone by saying this feels very Scottish, with a lemony malt and some chalk of exquisite beauty. It’s lively, cheerful, classical. With water: porridge, that chalk still shining through, cider apples (naturally) and a soft, understated vanilla. Mouth (neat): very good, apples, lemons, dill and watercress. Who could be against that? With water: top-notch, fresh, still dancing on notes of aniseed and dill, which I’m rather fond of. Refreshing. Finish: not terribly long but fresh and full of bounce, like a little summer frock. I’m paraphrasing Christian Dior on Alsatian Riesling here. Comments: perfect classicism.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Indri 2018/2025 ‘Peated Oloroso’ (58.5%, OB, India, for Germany, cask #33, 564 bottles)
Frankly, ‘peated oloroso’ with no punctuation sounds as dodgy as ‘coffee with mustard’, but let’s keep an open mind if you don’t mind. Especially since we’ve already tasted some very good Indri. Colour: mahogany. Nose: truffle, fresh rubber, scorched brake pads post-race, cordite, onion tart, then beef stock, glutamate, Maggi and oven-roasted marrow. It’s all rather spectacular. With water: same again, just leaning a little more towards parsley and chicken broth. Mouth (neat): a monster, though in the best possible sense. Take caramel, tar, truffles, orange liqueur, salt, pepper and Bovril, stir them all together, and here you are. More or less, let’s say… With water: reduced broth that’s simmered for hours upon hours. Finish: the same story. Comments: what a concoction! There’s nothing classical here, nothing safe, nothing soothing… In short, it’s a monster. In the best possible sense. The slightly jaded taster will rejoice.
SGP:482 - 87 points. |
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Säntis 12 yo 2012/2024 (59.3%, OB, for Whisky Picnic Bar Taiwan, Switzerland, ex-sherry, cask #718, 146 bottles)
We’re pleased to be tasting Säntis again, even if it’s via Taiwan, as these Eastern Swiss whiskies aren’t exactly known for timidity. Colour: red mahogany. Nose: surprisingly classical, meaning full of bitter orange, walnuts and dark honeys, but truth be told we’re veering more towards top-tier rum than whisky here. With water: same direction, even ripe pineapple and a dab of acetone in a Jamaican sort of way. Mouth (neat): I promise you, this could pass for rum. Molasses, jasmine, liquorice, black olive, hibiscus syrup… Don’t tell me it’s the sherry that did all that. With water: same profile, we’re clearly deep in the realm of excellent, saline-leaning rums. Finish: indeed. Comments: may we see the cask papers, please? Just kidding. Then again, perhaps they distilled a heavily hopped beer, something like a triple IPA? Or maybe they pushed some wild fermentation to the limits? We’ll probably never know… PS: we love it, you never get bored with Säntis.
SGP:463 - 88 points. |
While we’re in Switzerland… |
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Johnett 2012/2024 (47.9%, OB, Switzerland, Pinot Noir, 281 bottles)
This is made by the house of Etter, renowned fruit distillers. Pinot Noir in whisky maturation is a rather contentious affair, but I studied in Burgundy, so I’m naturally inclined to react favourably to blackcurrant, musty mop cloth, hare belly and what the old ones used to call ‘unkempt nun’. Other times indeed… Let’s see how this unfolds… Colour: full gold. Nose: much lighter than expected, soft, with notes of blood orange and Aperol. No Burgundian vibes just yet. And by the way, let’s not be too quick to write off Swiss Pinot Noirs, some of them aren’t half bad. Mouth: brushing up against strawberry and paraffin, an oddball assembly that’s lacking a bit of backbone. Finish: medium length, a little sour, but fair enough. Comments: very honest. Could probably chuck it into the fondue pot as well… Right then, I think I’ll wait a bit before setting foot in Switzerland again.
SGP:531 - 70 points. |
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Morris of Rutherglen ‘Signature’ (40%, OB, Australia, +/-2023)
When you see the word ‘signature’, it’s a bit like ‘reserve’—rather entry-level, let’s be honest. You’ll retort that a range needs a starting point, and you’d be quite right. Let’s have a look… Colour: gold. Nose: pleasant, fairly oaky over a rather light distillate, vanilla, cinnamon, ripe apples… A touch of caramel, but genuinely nice. Mouth: a pretty whisky, light indeed, slightly overrun by an intrusive coconut note, but as they say, it goes down easily. Finish: coconut liqueur and banana cake. Comments: precisely my definition of a 75-point spirit, which is well above the global average for spirits production, which, in theory and by our reckoning, hovers around 50/100, 50%, 50 points, whatever the name of the scale you use.
SGP:630 - 75 points. |
Right then, we’ll finish with something really funny… |
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St. Kilian ‘Judas Priest Invincible Shield’ (47%, OB, Germany, 7,850 bottles, 2024)
To sum up, there are clearly people of very high standing—and deeply into whisky, mind you—who at some point decided that 7,850 souls might be moved to purchase a whisky in tribute to this rather improbable band called ‘Judas Priest’. Naturally, no disrespect meant here to St. Kilian nor to Judas Priest themselves, whose oeuvre, truth be told, we’re unfamiliar with, though surely it's richly deserving. One must admire the boldness and utter lack of fear here! Colour: straw. Nose: pleasant, on grist, rye, porridge, very ripe apples, pear juice and fireplace ashes. No Judas references just yet. Mouth: but it’s good! Lovely barley, apples, mild ales, ripe bananas, honeyed cereal porridge, rustic bread with dried fruits… Yes indeed, it’s good. Finish: a few smoky and salty touches round off the picture nicely. Comments: we’re having a laugh, but in the glass, it’s all going really rather well. I even put Judas Priest on Spotify out of sheer curiosity—it was called ‘Painkiller’. The cats bolted, I nearly died laughing… Honestly, we love it!!!! Whisky leads to everything.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
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September 1, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today two secret Lowlanders
The consensus is that these are Glenkinchies, but I get the impression no one would stake their reputation on it. As for me, I must humbly admit that I’m quite incapable of recognising Glenkinchie with any real certainty in a blind tasting. |
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Distilled at a Lowland Distillery 9 yo 2013/2023 (56.5%, Watt Whisky, ruby port finish, Taiwan exclusive, 314 bottles)
With ruby Port, we might brace ourselves for a raspberry avalanche, mightn’t we? This finishing stage lasted a rather substantial 19 months. Colour: ripe apricot. Nose: the port’s very much in charge, make no mistake. Strawberry tart, blueberry muffins, overripe damsons, and those sticky nut-and-fruit cakes that occasionally pop up at village fêtes… Even that famous cherry beer our Belgian friends concoct, the Kriek, which we’re rather fond of, though that fondness earns us sniggers and scorn from said Belgian friends. With water: shifts a little towards cherry cake soaked in syrup. Mouth (neat): finishing turned up to eleven, frankly this is more Port with a dram of whisky than the other way ‘round. Now I’m not saying it’s not good, but you do need to be fully committed to the red fruit agenda. Utterly committed. With water: this is where the crux lies—it’s wildly improbable, yet rather well executed. Altogether a new sort of Caledonian–Lusitanian hybrid spirit, perhaps. Finish: long, jammy, richly fruity. The cherries call the tune throughout. Comments: now go on, try slapping a score on this! Please don’t take it too seriously …
SGP:751 - 85 points. |
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Lowland Single Malt 11 yo 2013/2025 (57.5%, Cadenhead, Enigma, refill oloroso finish, 1,590 bottles)
A refill cask, which might offer a welcome reprieve from the razzmatazz of the Ruby (My Dear, ha). Colour: gold. Nose: rather charming, on fig cake and pistachio nougat, with a touch of that mandarin liqueur our Belgian friends—yes, them again—do so well. They call it Mandarine Napoléon, which suggests they’ve rather forgiven old Boney. Well, perhaps we’re reading too much into it… With water: much the same. Not terribly complex but spot-on in terms of aromatic balance. A touch of maltiness and something akin to beer make a quiet appearance. Mouth (neat): this is very good, well-balanced, delightfully creamy, slightly liqueur-like, again that duet of candied citrus peel and dried figs singing in fine harmony. With water: a little more citrusy tension, quite proper, edging towards something almost refreshing, though let’s not get carried away. Finish: of medium length but gentle, more on honeyed softness, though the citrus, figs, honey, and a pinch of spice—mulled wine style—still lead the dance. Comments: a draw in Campbeltown, as it were.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
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August 2025 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Clynelish 28 yo 1996/2025 (49.9%, Casky Hong Kong & Kanpakai Japan, Finest Selection, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #11444, 171 bottles) - WF 91
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Pride of Strathspey 1959–1960/1986 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Royal Marriage Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson) - WF 92
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
Wormtub 10 yo ‘Batch 5’ (56.1%, Atom Brands, sherry cask finish, 2024) - WF 88
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
Monymusk 17 yo 2007/2024 (52.3%, Art Malts, MariGold Series, Jamaica) - WF 91
Serge's thumbs up this month:
Isle of Raasay 5 yo 2019/2025 (61.1%, The Maclean Foundation, charity bottling, release 3, cask #557, 246 bottles) - WF 90
Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
Oliver’s Exquisito 1995 (40%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2025) - WF 25 |
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Best spirits Serge tried those weeks, 90+ points only
Benromach 20 yo 2003/2023 (57.7%, OB for LMDW Singapore exclusive, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #48, 189 bottles)
Dallas Dhu 50 yo 1971/2021 (59.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection, refill American oak hogshead, cask #694, 56 bottles)
Secret Speyside (M) 30 yo 1993/2024 (49.7%, Casky Hong Kong, Finest Selection, 7th Anniversary, sherry hogshead)
Macallan 30 yo 1990/2021 (58.3%, Gourmet Pool, Germany, hogshead, cask #7394, 61 bottles)
Macallan 18 yo 1975/1993 (54.4%, Wilson & Morgan, Barrel Selection, hogshead, cask #8880, 248 bottles)
Millstone 2018/2025 ‘Heavily Peated No.5’ (54.1%, OB for Kirsch Import, Netherlands, Dutch Tulip Collection, 1st fill PX sherry butt, cask #17B089, 628 bottles)
Smögen 10 yo 2014/2025 (59.1%, WDC, Sweden, 1st Fill Four Roses barrel, cask #13, 198 bottles)
Monymusk 24 yo 1999/2024 ‘MPG’ (57.4%, Rest & Be Thankful for Navigate World Whisky South Africa, 283 bottles)
Domaine de Bellair 23 yo 1998/2025 (59.2%, L’Encantada for Armagnac Festival 2025, Bas-armagnac, cask #78)
Domaine Lous Mouracs 1982/2025 (51.9%, L’Encantada for Liquid Art, Ténarèze, cask #601, 89 bottles)
Pouchégu 30 yo 1995/2025 (54.8%, Hontambère, Ténarèze, cask #B4, 200 bottles)
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