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| Hi, you're in the Archives, August 2025 - Part 2 |
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August 25, 2025 |
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Eight more secret whiskies
All hailing from bonnie Scotland. We’ll be going in completely at random, following our noses, with a free and positive spirit... And we'll finish with a celebratory malt. |
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Glenlaird 12 yo ‘Batch #1’ (48%, Tri Carragh, Stravaig Spirits, +/-2023) 
This is a highlander, shall we expect a Clynelish? Colour: light gold. Nose: not Clynelish, far too much peat, grilled bacon, soot and burnt wood, we might veer towards Ardmore, although we must confess, we always struggle mightily to pin down and properly identify Ardmore, humbly admitted. Mouth: I haven’t the faintest idea what this is, but it’s very good. A slight ‘dirty’ edge à la Ben Nevis, certain batches thereof, yet also Ardmore’s sootiness, not forgetting the myriad incarnations of Loch Lomond, towards which we’re now leaning after all, all things considered. Lovely grapefruit with smoked paprika. Inch-something. Finish: rather long, salty, peppery and smoky, with the bacon remaining very much present. Comments: I’m rather fond of this, it’s a truly singular malt. So, Loch Lomond?
SGP:456 - 85 points. |
Since we're already deep in peat... |
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Big Peat 2010/2025 ‘Feis Isle 2025’ (50%, Douglas Laing, refill hogshead) 
We do enjoy tasting all these releases signed by Captain Haddock. But is there still any Port Ellen inside? Colour: white wine. Nose: sunflower oil, seawater, lemon juice and ashes. Everything works like a charm. With water: no change whatsoever, other than the addition of a few old magazines soaked by the rain. Mouth (neat): flawless lemon, oysters, seawater, seaweed, gentian, ink and ashes. The precision of Caol Ila. With water: same again, it’s just so good. Finish: long, precise, salty but almost refreshing. Comments: very ‘clear line’, which is rather amusing for a blend. Well, they know exactly what they’re doing, and I must say I’m rather impressed…
SGP:457 - 88 points. |
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Wormtub 10 yo ‘Batch 5’ (56.1%, Atom Brands, sherry cask finish, 2024)
A secret single malt from Speyside, which of course means it could be just about anything. That said, given the name, we can probably rule out all Speysiders that don’t use wormtubs, can’t we? So, we’re likely down to Balmenach, Cragganmore, Glen Elgin and Mortlach, if I’m not mistaken. Colour: dark amber. Nose: ooh that’s lovely, a beautiful mix of caramel and maple syrup, with a stout-like undertone. Cracking nose. With water: sublime prunes and figs. Mouth (neat): perfect dark nougat, brandy, caramel, prunes, armagnac, Corinth raisins, toffee, millionaire shortbread… With water: in come the more tertiary notes, even a saline edge, coffee, broths, morels, pipe tobacco… Finish: much the same for quite some time, though it tightens up on a welcome vegetal acidity that keeps things fresh. Comments: Sam!?
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
Update, Ballindalloch, Balmenach, Benrinnes, Cragganmore, Craigellachie, Glen Elgin, Mortlach, and Speyburn all use wormtubs. Thanks Tim. |
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Nectar Grove ‘Madeira Finish’ (46%, Wemyss Malts, blended malt, limited edition, 3,000 bottles, 2023)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, this is very lovely, somewhere between turrón and Nutella, or rather posh praline standing in effortlessly for that near-horror of a spread. Take 50g of almonds, 50g of hazelnuts and 100g of honey. Roast the nuts in the oven, then toss them in a pan with the honey. Finally, blitz the lot in a mixer. That’s it. Mouth: very, very good, more herbaceous, lively, nervy, with greater tension from citrus but also ‘Cointreau’. Don’t worry, I shan’t inflict a ‘Cointreau’ recipe on you. Finish: lovely finish on orange. The Madeira, whichever it was (Sercial? Malmsey? Others?) has remained discreetly in the background. Comments: really very, very good, indulgent yet elegant.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
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Timorous Beastie ‘The Cheese Cellar Collection No. 03’ (46%, Douglas Laing, Moscatel finish, 4,200 bottles, 2025) 
Right then, a Moscatel finish, rather not the most reassuring prospect in my book, and expectations aren’t exactly high. I cannot not think either of Caol Ila DE, or perhaps the White House tastefully redecorated by you-know-whom! But we’ve also understood this bottling nods to the legendary pairing of whisky and cheese. Fair enough, let’s dive in… Colour: full gold. Nose: but of course, they were going to do it well, steering clear of those overly pushy muscat notes, and instead preserving the balance of the malt, pastries, citrus and the like. Mouth: I’m sorry to report it’s really quite good, leaning towards herbal infusions, thyme, fennel, dog rose and such, and also various honeys. Finish: fairly long, while the muscat remains restrained, though we’re brushing up against the limits of sweetness. The oranges rescue things in the dying embers, but it’s now getting perilously sugary. Comments: we rather flirted with the edges of cloying sweetness all the way through but all in all it remained graceful.
SGP:651 - 83 points. |
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The Perspective Series No.1 21 yo (43%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, blended Scotch, 6,300 bottles, 2019)
Now this is a full-on blend. That said, it was created by Doug McIvor, easily one of the most distinguished, competent and elegant figures in the whisky business since at least the 18th century. All right, all right, others may be nipping at that enviable status, but the key is to never, under any circumstance, match your tie with your pocket square, something even Washington D.C. seems to have grasped these days. Colour: full gold. Nose: a very malty blend, in the vein of Macallan, let’s say. Lovely wee touches of potting soil and tobacco, with a discreet graininess, then more tobacco and some praline. Mouth: all gentle elegance, more ‘blend’ in character now, but top-drawer stuff. Honey, nougat, white chocolate, black tea. Finish: not very long, granted, but the coconut, though a tad insistent, stays within bounds. Comments: a blend, but truly a super-blend.
SGP:641 - 84 points. |
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Extra-Groovy Spirit Blend 1969–2017/2023 (40.1%, Thompson Bros., blended Scotch)
An improbable blend that defies commentary, with a design so very ‘Cream’ it can only resonate with the quasi-boomers who worship Clapton. Or Austin Powers. Colour: deep gold. Nose: sublime opening salvo on mango and mustard. That may sound odd, but it works a treat. The rest shifts to old white wines, Burgundy or Graves. Let’s not dig too deeply. Mouth: inexplicably good. I’ll need to look into the composition, as apparently, it’s all detailed on the back label. We're a bit late to the party... Still, it’s excellent and packs far more punch than that frightful 40.1% would suggest. Finish: not even short in the end. The mustard from the nose returns gloriously in this setting. Only the rear palate dips a touch, but at 40%, that’s to be expected. Comments: as they say at the Jazz Club, ‘great!’
SGP:562 - 89 points. |
One last dram, then, it’s been such fun playing with these improbable blends and hidden malts… Let’s take a step back in time to end on a high note... |
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Pride of Strathspey 1959–1960/1986 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Royal Marriage Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson) 
This was a special vetting for the marriage of Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson. The exegetes still seem to be locked in debate over the origins of this malt, Macallan or Strathisla? Naturally, G&M ‘couldn’t possibly comment’, but it's thought that the earlier versions of Pride of Strathspey were indeed Macallan. This one, I’m not so sure. Then again, I’m not sure Andrew and Fergie were exactly the crowning glory of the British monarchy, so frankly.... Colour: reddish amber. Nose: this strongly resembles classic Macallan from the distillery’s glory days, with sublime coffee, faint hints of yellow oyster mushrooms (really), pipe tobacco from Dunhill’s (not that it matters), and an incredible blend of figs and marrow. Wow. Mouth: at this point, strength hardly matters, it’s all about the molecules doing their thing. Let’s say flat-leaf parsley, chestnut honey, figs and dates, mushrooms (let’s go with Caesar’s this time), and several old white wines still full of verve. We shan’t name names, this isn’t winefun.com. Finish: right, this nips the nose just a little, but after being bottled at 40% and left for forty years, you expect chamber music rather than a full symphony. Still, it’s Mozart. The aftertaste is light yet superbly honeyed. Comments: of course, we’re not going to mention the Epstein affair (S., tsk…).
SGP:451 - 92 points. |
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August 22, 2025 |
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A few Speysides from Speyside’s
It's always been tricky to tell the difference, at least on paper, between “Speyside Distillery” and, say, “A Speyside Distillery”. How many secret Glenfarclas have we tasted, thinking they were from “Speyside”? And the other way round? Oh, our poor heads… Anyway, the ones we’ll be taking a quick look at today really should be Speysides from Speyside Distillery. Just be aware: don’t confuse those labelled “Spey” with “Glen Spey” … Ah well, we’ll survive… |
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Spey ‘Trutina’ (46%, OB, bourbon casks, 18,000 bottles, 2016)
We’re not particularly used to these NAS versions, the ones we mostly remember—though not always for the best reasons—being those poor Drumguishes. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: apple juice and quite a bit of fresh plaster, oatcakes, porridge, a little pear, some grist… The bourbon casks were rather shy here, but one appreciates this utterly natural character, no make-up at all. Mouth: very much like artisanal pear eau-de-vie, plus some hay and lemon peel. Not very easy, but I think it could handily replace Russian vodka in cocktails. Finish: medium length, dry and herbal profile, rather astringent. Comments: actually, this isn’t too bad, frankly, all in all it’s honest.
SGP:461 - 70 points. |
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Spey ‘Fumare Cask Strength Batch 2’ (60.4%, OB, bourbon barrels, 1,500 bottles, 2019)
A peated version, as the name suggests. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: on beer, bread dough and a touch of soot, pear juice, clinker, then increasingly assertive coal ash. With water: a few whiffs of antiseptic and a return of the porridge. Mouth (neat): this is very young peat in the style of other very young peaters, such as rather undercooked Ledaigs or Ballantruans, but with less definition than, say, the Port Charlottes or the Kilchomans. Rather hot, in fact, with this note of smoked pear over peat and a growing harshness. With water: it becomes truly harsh, rasping, a little difficult. Finish: long, overpowering, but more herbal than smoky by this stage. Comments: no prisoners here. In fact, it’s really not bad, but in the peat aisle, competition is fierce. And it’s pretty fiery.
SGP:367 - 79 points. |
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The Speyside Distillery 9 yo 2015/2024 (54.1%, Truth & Consequences, refill + 1st fill bourbon, cask #1620R, 244 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: there’s quite a singular metallic edge here, we’re reminded of old aluminium mess tins from military days, but also bananas, mangoes, a touch of coconut and again those apples and pears, just like in the official bottlings. The first fill bourbon seems to have done its job. With water: a little patchouli and Turkish delight, gives off a whiff of Kathmandu (circa the 1960s). Mouth (neat): the American oak influence is instantly apparent, with coconut, banana, vanilla, candyfloss, nutmeg… With water: in come the peaches, white grapes, nectarines… The whole is now well balanced. Finish: long, fruity, with the arrival of toffee apples. Comments: a very clever use of bourbon wood, I’m rather fond of this young Speyside.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
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The Speyside Distillery 9 yo 2014/2024 (56.9%, Hogshead Import, 1st fill vin santo octave, 72 bottles) 
Vin santo? Now that’s quite a bit more adventurous, if you ask me… Colour: bronze amber. Nose: soft and compact, on dried raisins and goji berries as expected, with pink grapefruit lingering in the background. So far, so good. With water: lovely vinosity, in a pineau or ratafia style. Mouth (neat): even more earthy and winey, marked by grape stalks and cedarwood, plus mulled wine spices. With water: sultanas and currants come roaring back. Finish: long, still on dried fruits but with added black pepper. Comments: truly a very good Christmas whisky. Ach, either we’re far too early or well too late.
SGP:651 - 82 points. |
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Speyside Distillery 21 yo 1996/2018 (51.5%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, sherry butt, cask #DL 12614, 215 bottles)
Once again we’re terribly behind, so let’s crack on. Colour: deep gold. Nose: we’re into walnuts, tobacco, earth, humus, mushrooms, old tree stumps… Lovely! With water: glorious wafts of a generous plate of cèpes flambéed in Armagnac with garlic. Mouth (neat): some unexpected yet charming tropical fruits—mango, passion fruit, papaya—all drizzled with aromatic honey. A fun return of lime blossom and patchouli. With water: oh yes, this is very good indeed, with orange liqueur making an entrance, and still a touch of garlic, though more like wild garlic this time—less jarring. Finish: medium length but a beautiful arrival of figs and tobacco, all nicely honeyed. Comments: what a lovely surprise!
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Speyside Distillery 32 yo 1991/2023 (49.2%, Maltbarn, The 26, sherry cask, 38 bottles)
Granted, a tiny outturn, but that doesn’t mean the whisky isn’t quite grand. Colour: gold. Nose: delicate stuff, somewhere between orgeat, pistachio cream, walnut wine, bergamot, and linden infusion… I really like this nose, full of refined elegance. Mouth: the palate answers back with more freshness, even a touch of nervous energy, bringing green notes and citrus peel… It’s lacking a bit of roundness now, but that’s just how we like it. Finish: same again. Little touches of fennel and caraway alongside all those zesty notes. Comments: the palate is quite different from the nose. Two whiskies in one, splendid.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
We'll leave it there, this way we’ll avoid accidentally tasting independent Glenfarclas ‘by mistake’… |
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August 21, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today Clynelish (plus two secret ones)
I feel I must insist: I find it a real shame that Clynelish is disappearing from independent ranges—at least under its own name—especially when the official range is so limited. It’s a malt with real character; it’s the opposite of “just another Speysider” that relies on active casks to stand out… In short, I hope it doesn’t become a missing piece in the marvellous puzzle of Scotch malts. Because a puzzle with a missing piece—well, you know what I mean… |
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Clynelish 17 yo 2008/2025 (53.1%, Signatory Vintage for The Whisky Exchange, bourbon cask series, bourbon barrel, cask #800073, 186 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: the purest chalk and slate, seamlessly entwined with paraffin oil, candlewax and green apple juice, the barrel only whispering of vanilla and honey, with great restraint. With water: virtually unchanged, perhaps a touch of vineyard peach and a wisp of flint, if one insists. Mouth (neat): powerful, cutting, yet texturally ample. The chalk and wax return, but this time it's lemon stepping in for the green apple. A stunning clarity of flavour. With water: again, water alters very little, save for some playful hints of fennel and aniseed adding yet more lift. Finish: long, pristine, on citrus fruits and, once again, those aniseed touches. The world’s best pastis, if you will. The aftertaste is nicely mineral and a little saline, one might almost find a wee oyster lurking in there. A light lemon fizz too. Comments: a Clynelish close to the distillate, which matters all the more with this style. The barrel merely serving as a jewel box for this little gem.
SGP:562 - 89 points. |
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Clynelish 28 yo 1996/2025 (49.9%, Casky Hong Kong & Kanpakai Japan, Finest Selection, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #11444, 171 bottles)
We had found some 1996 ex-sherries a little unbalanced, but here we are in good hands and the vintage was a great one! Incidentally, a distiller once told me that vintages meant nothing, to which I replied by asking why they put them on their labels then. Ha. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a solid hit of tar at first, rather unusual, followed by linseed oil, then it simply unfolds like a fine white Burgundy, perhaps a Meursault. Crushed chalk, toasted bread, lemon marmalade, honeysuckle, beeswax... Mouth: tremendous bitterness, in the realm of propolis, lemon, pistachio butter, candied citron, lime juice, then a resinous touch, probably from the wood, veering towards tar liqueur (back again!) Finish: very long and markedly more maritime. Oysters with green peppercorns, then lemon marmalade returning. A drop of amaro, followed by more pepper, even chilli heat in the aftertaste. Comments: a perfect bridge between this and the 1972 and 1983 vintages. Ha, vintages… In any case, this is splendid.
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
We want more Clynelish again! Well then, since we’re on the subject… |
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Distilled in Sutherland 5 yo (47.9%, Thompson Bros. for Whisky Fair Limburg 2024, blended malt, 120 bottles)
A blend of Clynelish and Dornoch, it would appear. We’re slightly behind schedule… Colour: pale white wine. Nose: cider apples and gooseberries mingled with plaster and pear and apple eaux-de-vie. In the background, a touch of soot and the proverbial paraffin oil rather than beeswax. Mouth: ah I do like this, it's all on small berries, holly, rowan, service tree, also little apples, jujubes, medlars and all those things that aren’t always terribly aromatic but are charming and delicate in flavour. Finish: fairly long, with the chalk closing up shop while the pear sings in the aftertaste, along with a slightly oily texture. Comments: quite 'eau-de-vie' in style, or even ultra-luxury vodka, which is of course a compliment—as long as it’s not Kremlinskaia, naturally.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Secret Highland Distillery 14 yo 2010/2024 (51.7%, The Nectar of the Daily Drams for the Wicked Whisky Compagnie, Belgium, PX hogshead)
It’s hit or miss… Colour: amber. Nose: hit—it smells of praline mingled with beeswax, boot polish and chestnut honey. No overload of raisins, mercifully. With water: wafts of old cellars and still quite a bit of polish. Soot, saltpetre, very dark chocolate. Mouth (neat): Clynelish and sherry can clash, in my modest experience, but that’s not the case here, it’s just packed with polish, smoked seafood (oysters) and black pepper. Quite the beast. With water: well then, here’s a Clynelish holding its own against the sherry. I’m not saying there aren’t a few squeaks and groans along the way, but it all ends on tar and a rather characteristic salinity. Or perhaps not so characteristic after all. Finish: long and properly saline, we’re almost heading into coastal amontillado territory. Comments: really very lovely, though one wonders how it might fare with shrimp croquettes from the Belgian coast. A very dry PX.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
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August 20, 2025 |
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Three Glen Elgin finished in
more difficult sherry
Let’s remember that Glen Elgin was also White Horse, the absolute star among relatively common branded blends. But today, we’ll also be getting some palo cortado, malaga and amontillado. Let’s say our prayers — here we go… |
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Glen Elgin-Glenlivet 12 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, 2025) 
This new baby was sheltered in palo cortado since 2023, rather smart if you ask me. Colour: pale gold. Nose: mustard and pepper, this is quite an extreme example of dry sherry, with no apparent fruitiness. Damp wood, hay, a wee balsamic touch, perhaps a few small berries, rowan, service tree, that sort of thing… Otherwise it is dry and austere. Mouth: spicy spruce, damp cardboard, apple peelings, a drop of lighter fluid. Finish: same again, with the mustard returning to the party. Comments: as dry as a hanged man’s humour, this rather improbable youngster. In truth, it is quite un-Cadenhead, I would say.
SGP:361 - 72 points. |
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Glen Elgin 12 yo (52.7%, James Eadie, Distilleries of Great Britain & Northern Ireland, Malaga wine finish, cask #373074, 257 bottles)
We remain in the south of Spain, though on the Mediterranean rather than the Atlantic. Colour: gold. Nose: far more balanced, thus with fruit, here small cider apples and jujubes, also a lovely bakery-yeast side and some multifloral pollen. With water: damp earth of various kinds and fresh mushrooms. Mouth (neat): rather powerful, on bitters and roots, so not that ‘sexy’ for now. Hints of tiger balm and bitter orange play upon your lips. With water: there we are, it loosens up a little, though in moderation, on tobacco and orange zest. Finish: in fact, it remains a tad austere, around roots, celery, also turnips and salsify cooked with honey… Comments: much, much better all the same.
SGP:461 - 80 points. |
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Glen Elgin 11 yo 2014/2025 (57.3%, Lady of the Glen, Amontillado Finish, cask #800982, 236 bottles)
Telling a palo cortado from an amontillado in a finishing is nothing short of wizardry, and we’ll freely admit we are quite unable to do so. Colour: full gold. Nose: earth, peppers and oranges in various guises. Will that do for you? With water: notes of Swiss cheese fondue, kirsch and white wine. I promise. Mouth (neat): the oranges save the world, at least here, yet it remains a touch… improbable. Think bitter orange liqueur with pepper and ginger. With water: ah, that’s better, though still a tad uncertain (Gruyère, pepper, kirsch and glue, really?) Finish: very long, very peppery, fairly bitter. Notes of glue and Seville orange. Comments: another highly acrobatic Glen Elgin, let us be frank, but really very, very decent.
SGP:461 - 80 points. |
I think we shall survive. |
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August 19, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today
Glendullan once more
This is part of our special programme “Let’s Sample As Many As Possible of the Distilleries No One Ever Talks About”. It’s not exactly “SEO-friendly” or naturally catchy, but we couldn’t give a toss. At least no one will accuse us of resorting to clickbait, will they? |
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Glendullan 15 yo 2009/2025 (55.5%, Signatory Vintage, Cask Strength Collection, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead finish, cask #11, 338 bottles)
Colour: mahogany. Nose: very vinous, but in the good sense, really giving you the feeling of nosing some old brandy de Jerez, only much less sweetened or boosted by whatever-it-is. Bags of chocolate, powdered coffee, fig spirit, walnut liqueur… With water: very ripe figs and roasted pecans join the party. Mouth (neat): rich, firing straight away on leather, tobacco and bitter orange. Then it carries on with more leather, tobacco and bitter orange, before settling on more leather yet, tobacco and bitter orange. And chocolate. What you would call a compact and coherent palate. With water: becomes spicier, in a lovely fashion, with several kinds of pepper and, above all, plenty of juniper and clove. Finish: long and creamy, chocolatey again. Pepper and chocolate are still dancing together very nicely. Comments: we like this compact sherried Glendullan rather a lot.
SGP:461 - 85 points. |
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Glendullan 22 yo 2002/2024 (54.1%, The Whisky Blues, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #10908, 198 bottles)
Always those very beautiful labels, very poetic. Colour: gold. Nose: this noses like a pina colada enjoyed at the Saratoga in good company (JM, get out of this body!) at first, which might seem alarming but the coconut fades quickly, giving way to ripe bananas, chamomile tea, Sicilian pistachio butter and artisanal vanilla cream. Also appearing are touches of mandarin and a little fresh sawdust, though without the slightest excess. Rather like a good bourbon, really… With water: carries on in the same vein. Mouth (neat): sweet touches at first, with banana liqueur, pineapple liqueur, soft honey (acacia, for example) and quite a lot of orange-flavoured buttercream. That last element might sound worrying, but we could eat a whole bucket of it without hesitation. With water: it gathers around malt and vanilla fudge. Finish: fairly long, still creamy, still with plenty of orange-flavoured buttercream. Very gentle spices in the aftertaste. Comments: this Glendullan is jolly good, even if one suspects the barrel has done a large part of the job. Job very well done.
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
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August 18, 2025 |
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WF's Little Duos, today Glenmorangie NAS vs Westport sherry |
Westport is supposed to be the name given to Glenmorangie with a teaspoon of Glen Moray added, but I imagine that since Glen Moray joined another stable, namely the French group La Martiniquaise, a different malt is now used, though that’s far from certain. Unless, of course, the name Westport is no longer in use; in any case, we’ve never tasted one that was distilled after 2006. But let’s begin, if you don’t mind, with a little Glenmorangie NAS ‘Triple Cask Reserve’. I often say that this kind of name reminds me of the time when small watch brands, caught up in the race to boast ever more jewels in their movements (17, 25, 30 or more…), would add ones that served absolutely no mechanical purpose, they were just there to look posh or ‘technical’ or ‘improved’ or whatever crosses the minds of marketeers… |
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Glenmorangie ‘Triple Cask Reserve’ (40%, OB, +/-2025) 
A mix of ex-bourbon, new charred oak and ex-rye casks, sold at a very gentle price in France, under €30 in certain hypermarkets. Colour: gold. Nose: typical Glenmorangie, that is to say rather rounded and soft, on pastries and, in this case, a generous dollop of custard. We then veer more towards malt, lager beer, fresh baguette (mais bien sûr) and honey laced with a touch of turmeric. Mouth: coherent, with zest, more oak but without ever veering into plankishness, and a little more tension than on the nose. On the other hand, it then turns a tad prickly and green, even slightly sour, perhaps it’s the active casks responsible. Or is it the rye? Finish: decent length, some clear tannicity, green tea and a bit of ale. Aftertaste on white pepper and a suggestion of ginger recalling the turmeric from the nose. Comments: not bad at all, I think, though perhaps better served cool, say at 12°C.
SGP:461 – 79 points. |
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Westport 21 yo 2003/2025 (53%, Decadent Drams, sherry wood, 228 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: quite a different kettle of fish altogether, here the sherry’s brought along tobacco, cedarwood, chestnut honey, forest floor, mosses, a touch of tar (no sulphur at all, let’s not get carried away) and eventually some modelling clay that rather recalls a distillery located a bit further up the east coast. Also chestnut purée. With water: it drifts back somewhat towards a more classical Glenmorangie profile, with stewed apple and cinnamon. So, it loses in originality but gains in balance. Mouth (neat): rich, rather spicy, even peppery right from the off, in the style of a goulash prepared with honey and candied sugar. We’ll have to ask our Hungarian friends whether such a thing exists. Also some speculoos and… rye bread! With water: we stay in spicy sherry territory, almost mustardy now, with pipe tobacco returning. Harvey’s sauce. Fine bitterness and a touch of cinchona. Finish: long, still spicy. Honey, pepper and mustard, we really must try that in a sauce. Comments: a truly distinctive bottle, one that stays with you, I think. By the way, the giraffe on the label, evoking the distillery’s tall, narrow-necked stills, is indeed Glenmorangie’s mascot. No, Ardbeg did not go with the hippopotamus…
SGP:462 – 87 points. |
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August 17, 2025 |
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August 15, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today Lindores Abbey |
We don't often get to taste 'new cats' on their own like this, except perhaps Daftmill and Ardnamurchan. But rest assured, it’s something you’ll be seeing more and more of on WF… And here we are in the Lowlands, right across from the famous abbey where Scotch whisky was born - at any rate, no one’s ever managed to prove otherwise. |
(Lindores Abbey Distillery) |
Oh, and the address? Naturally, it’s ‘Abbey Road’. And on top of that, today is the Feast of the Assumption — how fitting, WF! (Just joking) |
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Lindores Abbey ‘The Cask of Lindores II’ (49.4%, OB, bourbon cask, 2023)
I don’t believe we ever tried Batch 1. Colour: white wine. Nose: green pears, vanilla and chalk. It’s very simple, square-cut, efficient, pretty. In the second layer, a few whiffs of apple shampoo – that’s right. Mouth: herbaceous but also fruity, close to barley and yellow citrus. A few touches of varnish, before the pear returns, and finally a sack of 245 kilos of jelly babies. Finish: fairly long, on fruity sweets like those famous Swiss Sugus. Comments: all this is very ‘Lowland’, a bit in the style of certain old Auchentoshans from days gone by. Is it triple distilled?
SGP:641 - 83 points. |
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Lindores Abbey ‘Thiron 2024’ (49.4%, OB)
A rather amusing tale of partnership with the mother abbey of Lindores, the Abbey of Tiron, in France at Thiron-Gardais, south-west of Paris. This youngster matured in three types of casks, namely ex-red wine, ex-bourbon and fresh French oak from the region around the Abbey of Tiron itself. Why not! Colour: straw. Nose: similar to the previous one, though a tad more marked by fresh oak, which, you’ll say, was to be expected. The good news is that the red wine influence is barely noticeable. It’s pretty, balanced, and dare I say, suitably monastic. Mouth: nice presence, fruity, with a clearly defined but fresh woodiness, a touch of pepper, and plenty of apples. Finish: rather herbal, though not particularly long, on infusions and liquorice wood. Comments: a very charming bottle, just a wee touch too oaky for me.
SGP:561 - 82 points. |
With a shout-out to all our very distinguished Belgian friends from the now very quiet Lindores Whisky Club in Ostend. |
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Best spirits Serge tried those weeks, 90+ points only
Clynelish 28 yo 1996/2025 (49.9%, Casky Hong Kong & Kanpakai Japan, Finest Selection, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #11444, 171 bottles)
Pride of Strathspey 1959–1960/1986 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Royal Marriage Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson)
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