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| Hi, you're in the Archives, August 2025 - Part 1 |
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August 10, 2025 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
A small selection of cognacs and armagnacs |
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| Domaine d’Espérance (Domaine d’Espérance) |
Since it is Sunday! We shall start with one or two old bottlings of cognac from big houses, as an apéritif… |
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Otard ‘X.O.’ (40%, OB, cognac, +/-1980) 
This baby was matured at the Château de Cognac, according to the silkscreen-style back label. Otard, apparently now Baron Otard, is a house you hear less about these days; even we at WF have only tasted very old bottlings or very old vintages. Colour: amber. Nose: lovely nose, honeyed and full of raisins, thus rather rich, but with a mineral and earthy tension in the background that adds much complexity, not to mention those tiny mentholated and camphory touches that appear after a few seconds. In short, on the nose, this is beautiful, a lovely surprise. Mouth: really very soft, one feels syrups, a fatty and sugary side one could do without, a bit of a pity. Vin de paille, pineau, sweet muscats, all that. This liqueur-like side is not really for us. Finish: rather long, still gentle, even slightly cloying. Still loads of raisins. Comments: we liked the nose a lot, the palate less so. I do not think this is OBE, despite more than forty years in bottle.
SGP:740 - 76 points. |
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Camus ‘Célébration’ (40%, OB, La Grande Marque, 1970s) 
A version launched by Camus to mark their centenary in the 1960s; let us see how this cognac has resisted the passing of time… Colour: dark amber. Nose: already on the nose, much drier and more vegetal than the Otard, perhaps more marked by slightly more rustic crus, which we like a lot here. A touch of marc, then undergrowth, coffee in great elegance, and liquorice that grows ever more present. Mouth: this time the condition is perfect, the style rather complex, a little caramelly yet also beautifully earthy and resinous, with the arrival of the proverbial ripe vineyard peach and the no less proverbial maple syrup, which further pushes the caramel side, whether the latter be entirely natural or slightly ‘boosted’ in the kitchen. You see what I mean. Finish: fairly long, lovely, quite fresh despite that caramel, even with a slightly malty side. Comments: a fine old bottle, and easy enough to find.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
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Pierre de Segonzac ‘XO La Rencontre Lot90’ (40%, Art Malts, Grande Champagne, 2024)
Formerly house Pierre Ferrand. I think the House Pierre de Segonzac is no longer related to Cognac Ferrand. The rest of the story is a bit complicated, so let us rather focus on the juice… Colour: bright amber. Nose: formidable nose on dark nougat and praline, with just a very light varnish and a touch of bud. Not very far from the old Camus, truth be told, only this is more compact, most elegantly compact. Mouth: a slightly old-style cognac, blending apricot tart with fir honey and, once again, maple syrup and toffee. Not such a light structure at 40% vol. Finish: fairly long, closer to the grape cluster but still dominated by honey and maple syrup. Touch of peach liqueur in the aftertaste. Comments: very much in the Camus style.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
Let’s have a little Armagnac… |
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Domaine d’Espérance 23 yo 2001/2025 (49.7, The Colours of Armagnac, Bas-armagnac, No.1, cask #71, 210 bottles) 
Pure folle blanche! It is really nice to see rum or whisky specialists taking more and more interest in armagnac. Domaine d’Espérance is located in Mauvezin-d’Armagnac, in the Landes. Colour: amber gold. Nose: very much on dark honeys of all sorts, the panettones we keep mentioning here, then agricole rum à la Neisson (I assure you) and, if you search well, minute puffs of garlic-fried ceps. Which, of course, is utter murder. Savoury. Mouth: much firmer on the palate, with toasted oak that takes you in a gentle pincer movement, plus a slightly acidic coffee grounds side, the whole thing being utterly beautiful. This style suits armagnac so well! Now, where are those garlic ceps? Finish: very long, on resinous woods and menthol tobacco of the Kool type. I have no idea if the brand still exists. Plenty of dark chocolate and mint in the aftertaste. Comments: a slightly combative armagnac, if you see what I mean. It is very, very ‘armagnac’.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
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Laubade 23 yo 2001/2025 (50.7%, Grape of the Art, Bas-armagnac, cask #90, 251 bottles)
Here is pure baco, or Gers piquepoul, a cross between folle blanche and noah said to be a little less refined, but in our glass, we have never noticed that. But we are no experts… Colour: full gold. Nose: the complete opposite of the previous one, much rounder, sweeter, seductive, fruity, floral, in other words more dangerous. I find mainly tonnes and tonnes of tiny dried figs, the queens of dried fruits. Though the fig is not a fruit, it is a flower, did you know? Also mandarin liqueur. In short, magnificent. With water: white Bordeaux of twenty years or more. Mouth (neat): of great beauty, full of ease, citrus, flower jellies and honeys and pear liqueur. Superb notes of old sémillon. With water: even older, and less old, sémillon. One drinks this like wine, frankly. Finish: not that long, but still totally seductive, with what we could now call a ‘muscaty’ aspect at this stage. Comments: absolute danger here, goes down like iced tea. Peach, naturally. They should add a warning sticker to the bottle.
SGP:641 - 91 points. |
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Garreau 36 yo 1988/2025 (45.9%, Liquid Treasures for Korea Brandy Society, Bas-armagnac) 
The independent Garreaus have undoubtedly been among the revelations of recent years. Colour: full gold. Nose: again a very different profile, this time we are in sweet wine territory, VDN, Rivesaltes, floc de Gascogne, sweet PX, apricot liqueur, agave syrup, with a very slight toast… On the nose this is beautiful, we just hope the palate will not be too, let us say, schmalzy. Mouth: no, but it is very fruity, while displaying fairly marked oak, so it stretches between black teas and fresh fruits, but I find that it works very well. Sultanas then arrive en masse and join a very infused Earl Grey tea. Finish: long, fruitier, between Williams pear and mirabelle, with pink peppercorn as counterpoint. Comments: the Laubade is a session-killer, so a thousand bravos for surviving with panache and even glory.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
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Domaine Lous Mouracs 1986/2025 (47.3%, L’Encantada for German Armagnac Festival 2025, Ténarèze)
Ugni blanc and colombard, and 35 years in wood, so, I suppose, a few years in a demijohn. Colour: amber. Nose: again, a pack of Kool or green Dunhill’s, so tobacco and mint, then small aniseed and varnish touches before tipping towards peach and apricot soup. Then it carries on with a procession of tisanes and infusions, among which we shall note especially thyme and rosemary. Impeccable. Mouth: mainly on fruit soup flavoured with mint and liquorice. You could list dozens, of course apricots and peaches, but also all sorts of plums. The slight varnish and clove side is still there too. Finish: long, now really rustic, but that is what one expects from a Ténarèze. Relatively marked tannicity. Comments: a magnificent country armagnac, to drink on a picnic (if you are not driving afterwards, of course).
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
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Hontambère 1988/2025 (44.3%, POH!, Ténarèze)
100% ugni blanc here, and a name that has made its mark among malt freaks lately. Quite rightly so. Colour: amber. Nose: cooked fruits in abundance, we feel like visiting a jam factory in full production. A few real touches of tomato sauce too, which is utterly brilliant, then crazy amounts of damson, sprinkled with cinnamon and white pepper. Finally, a touch of pinot noir, I have no idea where that comes from. Mouth: again the rusticity of the Ténarèze, tannins, prunes, old plum spirit, strands of dark tobacco (let us say unfiltered Gauloises) and liquorice wood. Even notes of cured ham, Bayonne-style, in short this is serious stuff. Finish: long on, ach, erm, euh, Mon Chéri. Sorry. Comments: we are borderline ‘corrida’ here. A rusticity one might say is fully assumed.
SGP:461 - 89 points. |
Here, for the last one, we’ll shift things a bit… |
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Domaine de l’Arlot 2007/2025 (51%, Authentic Spirits, fine de Bourgogne)
I remind you that a fine is distilled wine, so cognac and armagnac are fines. The difference here in Burgundy is that the grape varieties used are intended to make (great) wines, whereas those of cognac or armagnac are ‘distillation’ grapes, which rarely make it into wine to be drunk as such. In any case, here we are in Nuits-St.-Georges, the most terroiry of the red Burgundies in my humble opinion. We adore them. Colour: gold. Nose: utterly treacherous because for now, I feel we are in Cognac. Stewed peaches and pears, sultanas, apricots, jasmine, only a few waxy touches and those closer to ‘the stalks’ suggest a difference. With water: little change. Mouth (neat): only a few touches we might call ‘fat and rustic’ signal a difference indeed… At least at the start, for gradually, we draw nearer to leaf, soil, even marc and stalks… With water: the waxy and herbal side strengthens; we are no longer in Cognac at all. Touches of glue, almond skins, fresh walnuts, fresh mint… Finish: long, herbal, textured. Comments: I find this very good but rather intellectual; I think it calls for immersion… in Nuits-St.-Georges.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
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August 8, 2025 |
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WF’s Little duos, today
Amarone vs. Madeira |
I mean, Glencadam, which we like, but also, more wine craziness. In other words, let’s not expect too much… |
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Glencadam ‘Reserva de Madeira’ (46%, OB, 2024) 
A straightforward Madeira finish, but that might actually work with Madeira, one knows the score. Thanks to the excellent Glencadam, we’re soon to complete our grand tour of the world’s wines; only Lichtenstein’s Pinot Noir will remain (which, by the way, isn’t half bad). Colour: gold. Nose: a touch winey and fermentative at first, then veering towards fudge and peanut butter. A few whiffs of lees in the depths of an old cask, some cider, and a faint vinegary note, though nothing off-putting at all. Mouth: it’s alright, fairly coherent, with caramel, baked apples, a touch of mustard, and rustic cider. We’re not quite in Calvados territory, but then again, we sort of are. Finish: surprisingly short, like a shooting star (wow, S., how poetic). Comments: genuinely better than just decent. We hope this sort of bottling might inspire some to explore the eponymous wines, in this case, the grand wines of Madeira.
SGP:631 - 79 points. |
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Glencadam ‘Riserva di Amarone’ (46%, OB, 2024)
Good heavens, Amarone! You may say there are some fine ones out there but let us gently remind ourselves that this is essentially a kind of red straw wine, hyper-concentrated. It’s about as close to malt whisky as Vladimir P. is to the teachings of Mahatma G. Colour: pale gold, surprisingly. Amarone, really? Nose: not a trace of Amarone, red wine, red berries or anything of that ilk, not even cassis jelly, cherry cream or strawberry jam. In short, it’s just malt, charming, well-made, pleasant, on baked apples and, still, a few discreet little berries. Mouth: hard to pin down, rather winey but wavering, with a slightly shaky character and, in any case, it’s sweet. Fruit pastes, preserves, candied cherries… Finish: becomes trickier, more vinous. Comments: the Madeira still seems to have the upper hand in this debate, even if we’re not exactly sipping from the mountaintops.
SGP:641 - 77 points. |
So, we’re hoping for the Liechtensteiner Pinot Noir very soon… |
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August 7, 2025 |
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Today Laphroaig twice crazy
I know, we knocked back litres of Laphroaig in July, but the Element 3.0 has just arrived, so let’s have it. We’ll also have a ‘Secret Islay’ of around thirty years of age; unfortunately, we know the quality of those batches, and it’s doubtful that the new official release, good as it may be, stands much chance in this fratricidal duel... |
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Laphroaig ‘Elements L 3.0’ (55.3%, OB, 2025) 
Laphroaig remains one of the rare distilleries still managing to flog NAS whiskies at lofty prices, let’s be honest. But there’s a tale here, as this one is apparently ‘the result of a fire in our kiln that burned peat for longer and at higher temperatures than usual’ Now isn’t that awfully credible? Colour: gold. Nose: it’s mostly pronounced woodiness we’re getting here, fir sawdust, green tea, and a peat that, at this stage, prefers to whisper rather than shout. The whole remains bone-dry nonetheless. With water: still bone-dry, now leaning into soaked cask wood, fig leaves, and green tomato vines. Mouth (neat): not unpleasant on the palate, somewhat oily and cask-driven, though a few exotic fruit notes do peek through, the sort that once built Laphroaig’s reputation, beyond the love it or hate it USP. On the other hand, those green tannins and that oddly artificial smoke become increasingly grating and assertive. With water: a sliver of gentleness emerges, circling around lemon marmalade, but let’s not kid ourselves, it’s the bare minimum. Finish: long but rather simplistic, with an astringency that overstays its welcome. Comments: really not great, in all honesty. L 1.0 and L 2.0 were considerably better in my humble opinion, and at €175.00, this is frightfully not very good value, we must humbly add.
SGP:476 – 80 points. |
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Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky 30 yo 1993/2024 (48.2%, Casky Finest Selection & Revel Hibiki, refill barrel)
We’re back in Hong Kong this time. As they say, these ‘secret’ independent Laphroaigs from the late 1980s to early 1990s generally range from the superb to the utterly sublime. Colour: straw. Nose: magnificent soft camphory and briny sweetness, rather in the style of that other Islay distillery now under the same ownership (right, Bowmore), plus wet campfire ashes suddenly doused by a cloudburst. Could one get more poetic? The usual tiny oysters are in place, almond oil as well, and a bit of soot. However, it isn’t medicinal in the slightest. Mouth: thirty years is indeed the perfect age for peated Islays, and here comes further proof. The bitterness is exquisite, should you share my fondness for it, with salinity cranked up to eleven, flashes of green pepper, then heaps of ashes, with that peculiar impression of having popped a cigar in backwards. An extinguished one, naturally. Finish: rather long and very dry, pushing even further into the ashes, which may be a tad drying but who cares in this setting. A whisper of lemon on the aftertaste, and even a wee dash of cough syrup. All in all, textbook Laphroaigness. Comments: only drawback, there are no surprises. Well played once again, Hong Kong whisky people.
SGP:367 - 91 points. |
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August 6, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today young Pulteney ex-bourbon
Always a real pleasure to head a bit further north, along the east coast…
(AI slop) |
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Old Pulteney ‘Harbour’ (40%, OB, +/-2025)
A small NAS probably rather kind-hearted, matured in first and second fill bourbon casks. If it doesn’t lean too heavily on vanilla cream, this could be quite good indeed… Colour: white wine. Nose: no, this is fine, quite the opposite in fact, it’s fresh, the sea is clearly perceptible too, with touches of salted candied lemon, grapefruit, and streusel. Nice coastal tension, just what one expects from Pulteney. Mouth: slightly softer on the palate but the balance has been especially well crafted, there’s none of that vanilla-and-sawdust overload one might have found in similar bottlings ten years ago. Grapefruit returns, along with passion fruit, seaweed, our friends the oysters, and a white pepper that does its job without being over the top. Finish: fairly long given the strength, a bit ‘old-Ardbeg-ten-long’, we’re talking early 80s to early 90s batches. Comments: I find this super good, certainly a worthy candidate for the Bang-For-Your-Buck title this August.
SGP:552 – 86 points. |
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Pulteney 13 yo 2012/2025 (58.9%, Lady of the Glen, refill barrel, cask #800134, 241 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: the profile is naturally quite close but it’s even less marked by American oak, consequently showing more lemon and green apple, and naturally more power as well. At this stage, it also seems a little more mineral than maritime, or so it seems to me. With water: we’re extremely close to the wee ‘Harbour’, only leaning more clearly towards minerality and even greenness. Mouth (neat): powerful, cutting, extremely sharp, all on lemon and soluble aspirin tablets. Lemon-flavoured tablets, for example. This minimalist side is very lovely indeed, we sometimes call these babies ‘Bauhaus’ whiskies. With water: it becomes very chalky. As luck would have it, we do like that. Finish: very long, ultra-precise, dominated by a maritime lemon. Perhaps there are lemon trees in Wick? There are some on the other side, near Ullapool… Comments: a superb creature, taut as a competition bow (and the first to mention Agincourt/Azincourt again will answer to me).
SGP:552 – 87 points. |
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August 5, 2025 |
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Four Glen Grants, three aged 30 years and one old 12
(a session that nearly failed)
Remembering that Glen Grant was the star, before other more heavily marketed brands started muscling in on the market. We’re talking fifty years ago, aren’t we. Here, let me give you an example to illustrate the point…
(In the 1980s, all brands were running more or less the same adverts, here Glen Grant in Italy.) |
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Glen Grant 12 yo (43°GL, OB for Armando Giovinetti, Italy, 75cl, +/-1970)
In a square bottle. Colour: gold. Nose: unbelievable medley of stewed fruits, candied fruits, peat, ashes, coastal notes, old toolbox, waxes and beeswax polish, all delivered with unfathomable mastery. There. Mouth: implausibly fruity smoke, with incredible fatness, waxes, camphor, a touch of gentle turpentine, mountains of candied fruits and sultanas… Only the relatively modest strength might be considered a tiny flaw after all these years. This, at 100° proof! Or indeed 100° Gay-Lussac. Finish: yes, not tremendously long, but splendid, with marrow dumpling broth and smokiness in the aftertaste. Comments: one wonders why Giovinetti seemed to have moved on to Macallan a few years later…
SGP:652 - 92 points. |
Right, now three bottles aged around 30 years, simply arranged in order of increasing strength… Good luck to them, after the 12-year-old Giovinetti… |
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Glen Grant 29 yo 1995/2024 (45.6%, Signatory Vintage for Wu Dram Clan, bourbon barrel, cask #88198, 1996 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: this is a basket of fully ripe pears and apples, completed with a little barley syrup and acacia honey, with only the faintest mentholated touches. A few vineyard peaches also saunter in after a few minutes. It’s simple, pinpoint, perfect. Mouth: the apples and custard glide over the pears in this subtle and curiously refreshing mix, which then unfolds into lime blossom, thyme honey, then a few citrus notes and a slightly mentholated pepper that grows increasingly assertive. Finish: medium to short in length, slightly more on the herbal side, which is quite expected. Comments: an old whisky that’s fresh and fruity, more of a ‘drinker’ than a sipper, if you see what I mean. We love it here.
SGP:641 - 89 points. |
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Glen Grant 30 yo 1994–1995/2025 (46.6%, Decadent Drinks, Whiskyland, Chapter 14, 360 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: I’m terribly sorry and must offer my deepest apologies to the gentlemen at Decadent & Land, but this is, for all intents and purposes, the same whisky as the previous one. If you dig really deep, you might find a very slightly more exotic note, but that would be it. Mouth: perhaps a touch more tension, and a slightly more pronounced herbal side, though that may well be down to the extra 1% ABV. Finish: the same story. Comments: truly sorry, but this is the kind of problem that sometimes arises when our tasting lineups are a little too, perhaps overly, consistent. In short, another top Glen Grant to gulp down with no further justification than taking sheer pleasure.
SGP:641 – 89 points. |
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Glen Grant 30 yo 1994/2024 (57.5%, Milroy’s 60th Anniversary, bourbon barrel, cask #10045)
The honourable bottlers remind us on the back label that Glen Grant was being offered as an official single malt as early as the 1930s. Colour: straw. Nose: zut alors, the same phenomenon occurs, this one just seems a little closer to herbs and leafy greens, along with lemon peel, though that may stem from the significantly higher bottling strength. With water: perhaps a chalkier touch. Mouth (neat): on the palate it feels tighter and more nervous when at cask strength, a little ‘greener’. With water: it’s almost identical to the others at similar strength (more or less). Finish: same again. Comments: same again.
SGP:641 - 89 points. |
The deciding factor: you shuffle your glasses at random, then try to figure out which is which once they’ve all been reduced to a similar strength. Here, it’s virtually mission impossible, except, of course, for the sublime 12-year-old Giovinetti. |
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August 4, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today Isle of Raasay including the Macleans'
This is one of the new distilleries that has managed to establish its own style and character, even though times seem to be tougher, as they are for many others. For our distinguished readers who may not be aware, the Isle of Raasay lies just to the east of Skye. Today, we’ll be exploring the latest release for the remarkable Maclean Foundation. But to begin with, a lighter version in terms of alcohol... but not in terms of story! |
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Isle of Raasay 3 yo 2001/2024 (50.7%, OB, Quercus Humboldtii Virgin Colombian Oak)
Frankly, this Colombian oak lark really makes one chuckle, what an idea! Do note this is full maturation, not some afterthought finishing, but then again, this baby is only three years of age. Let’s not get into carbon footprints, shall we… Colour: gold. Nose: it’s mad how our brain works, knowing the oak hails from Colombia, I’m getting coffee and cola, but also an abundance of candied fruits and a few lovely whiffs of fir smoke. For now, it’s a very pretty nose. With water: more cola yet, everything else boosted as well. Very jolly. Mouth (neat): this is good, it’s creamy, it’s rather rich, it’s modern, veering between coastal smoke, candied orange peels and a splash of pine bud liqueur. One could almost believe it came from some American craft distillery. With water: really splendid, with more turmeric stepping forward, indeed rather leading the charge. Also some heather honey. Finish: long, on strictly identical flavours, which is good news. Lovely notes of pink and white pepper. Comments: I find this really excellent, and I doubt one could do much better at three years of age. ‘Colombian oak’, I must be dreaming…
SGP:654 - 87 points. |
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Isle of Raasay 5 yo 2019/2025 (61.1%, The Maclean Foundation, charity bottling, release 3, cask #557, 246 bottles)
The proceeds from this baby, launched in parallel with Charlie Maclean’s three sons rowing across the Pacific (9,000 miles, no less!), are earmarked to fund clean water access in Madagascar, a most worthy cause indeed. Colour: deep gold. Nose: gorgeous tangerines, turmeric once more, all gentle and rounded, with papaya and guava, a whiff of fresh panettone from Panettone & Panettone, and a faint trace of Italian bitter. All in all, this one feels rather Italian, this Raasay, but at Château WF, that’s always good news. With water: tiny spices and hints of damp earth, like strolling through a hothouse filled with exotic flora. Mouth (neat): I feared it might flounder after the Colombian variant, but not a bit of it, this is gloriously oily, brimming with honey and citrus fruits sprinkled with posh peppers. With water: excellent, more of everything, beautifully fruity with all manner of citrus and slightly earthy spices. Finish: long, candied, with flavours clearly aligned with Italy. The finest of amaros! Comments: I hereby certify, on record, that my score has not been boosted simply because it’s a charity bottling backed by the Macleans. Swear on the holy barley, cross my heart and hope to die, this one stands proudly on its own. – Serge.
SGP:652 - 90 points. |
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August 3, 2025 |
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Rums from Brazil to Trinidad
In fact, we're going to Brazil, Madeira, Mauritius, Cuba, Trinidad, Panama and Jamaica. Does that work for you?
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Casa Engenho 8 yo (43%, OB, Brazil, +/-2024)
From a ‘Traditional Brazilian Farm Distillery’ near São Paulo, established way back in 1889. This isn’t cachaça, mind you, but rather proper rum, distilled from the estate’s own cane juice. Now nothing whatsoever to do with the Madeiran ones from Engenho Do Norte or Engenho Novo, which we’re rather fond of. 'Engenho' means ‘mill’ in Portuguese. There, now we more or less know everything… Colour: gold. Nose: it’s light yet shows a lovely salinity, faintly fermentary touches, and even hints of ashes and iodine that wouldn’t bother anyone fond of coastal malt. Then there’s some freshly sawn fir wood sneaking in. All in all, a fresh and charming nose. Mouth: same general sensations, a fine salinity again, a discreet but rather charming vinegary edge, then increasingly camphory notes that veer into the medicinal. One only wishes it had packed a little more punch. Finish: the fresh cane makes itself known, though the finish doesn’t hang about for too long. Comments: this is most pleasing, I must say I quite like it. I’ll see if I can get my hands on more.
SGP:352 - 82 points. |
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William Hinton ‘Smoked Rum’ (40%, OB, WH Club, Madeira, +/-2025) 
Rum from Madeira, presumably of the agricole persuasion, finished in ex-peated whisky casks. What could possibly go wrong? Colour: gold. Nose: well, let’s be honest, it seems to work, as the fermentary, slightly mustardy ashes from the rum meld rather agreeably with the peaty smokiness of the whisky, even bringing out a rather amusing tar-and-anise combo. But the devil always lurks on your palate… Mouth: mad stuff, but it still works. Capers and olives, bags of ashes, lime juice, and again that touch of mustard, even a wee bit of horseradish and ginger à la sushi-bar. Finish: medium in length, still very pleasant, with a lingering impression of smoked olives. Comments: now here’s a surprise! Just goes to show… Though it’s a pity it wasn’t bottled with a little more oomph. How many times do we write that each week?
SGP:363 - 84 points. |
Well then, let’s continue the journey with another rum that's been in a whisky cask… |
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Penny Blue 15 yo 2009/2024 ‘Ex-Whisky’ (60%, OB, Mauritius, LMDW Foundations, cask #206, 94 bottles)
Attention, this is not a finishing, it’s a full maturation in an ex-whisky cask. Perhaps ex-Glenrothes, as Berry Bros. are at the helm? Colour: amber. Nose: soft and rounded, all on cake and the sort of pastries served in proper British hotels for afternoon tea at five o’clock sharp. We shan’t list them all but suffice to say the whisky influence remains rather discreet. With water: it’s the sugarcane that takes centre stage, and perhaps there’s a touch of malt in the background. Mouth (neat): very powerful, lemony, plenty of sugarcane but it clearly calls for water. With water: creamy and gentler, with candied citrus peels and the faintest whisper of salt. It remains a light-textured rum, as do most Mauritian offerings, at least in my limited experience. Finish: of medium length, mild and easy-going. Comments: well, it wasn’t an ex-Laphroaig cask!
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
Let’s carry on with whisky… |
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The Outlaw Rum Co. 2019 ‘Flagship’ (40%, OB, Trinidad, cask #001)
So, Caribbean rum aged in Huntly (rings a bell) in ex-Scottish whisky casks. Colour: gold. Nose: full-on petrol and we’re all for it, likewise that gloriously overripe mango that fills the room like some tropical potpourri. At no point do the low ABV levels make themselves known, at least for now. This must be TDL. Mouth: very good! Same markers—petrol, mango, bananas, liquorice, hints of jasmine, a drop of seawater and half a black olive—though the wattage does feel a tad restrained. Finish: lovely, but the lack of punch becomes more apparent here. A pity. Comments: really excellent, but let’s have a slightly more ‘bodybuilt’ version next time, please.
SGP:642 - 85 points. |
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Cuban Rum 50 yo 1973/2024 (51.9%, Whiskydudes, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #88191, 128 bottles)
Supposedly one of those old HC casks (not too sure, some are) many of which turn out to be quite splendid. We approach this one with the same greedy anticipation as a large cat locked in a cupboard for three days (true story—though not us, the cat) … Colour: dark red amber. Nose: maestro-level stuff indeed, albeit a little reticent for now, all on old wood varnishes, cocoa, naturally cigars (but of course), and blood orange liqueur… I reckon a few drops of water will help it come alive. With water: magnificent, the tiny herbs emerge, alongside soil, undergrowth, mosses, and a whisper of umami. Mouth (neat): it is sweet, but in the very best way, with a wide array of syrups and liqueurs—orange, prickly pear, grenadine, violet, and yes indeed, sugarcane. With water: the herbs come back, so do the soft spices, though the syrupy texture persists. Finish: long and very gentle. Comments: it does feel like it may have been ‘dosed’ either at birth or somewhere along the way, but it suits it rather well, no worries there, even if the semi-sweet profile is quite pronounced.
SGP:740 - 88 points. |
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El Ron del Artesano 2007 (57.4%, OB, Panama, oloroso sherry cask, +/-2024)
Panama may not be our favourite rum source, but this is without doubt our preferred Panamanian-fuelled brand. Colour: gold. Nose: what’s rather charming here is the combination of hay and dried flowers with toasted hazelnuts, all wrapped in a rather elegant molasses note. With water: curious whiffs of bagasse and damp fields after the rain. Mouth (neat): creamy, easy-going, in the style of the big-name supermarket rums, only much better, even if there’s more caramel and praline than strictly necessary. Loads of orange liqueur as well, and a grapefruit that helps to hold everything in tension. With water: nothing to complain about really, I suspect this is the best you can hope for in this sweet style. The oloroso seems to help a little, though it’s not a dominant feature. Finish: not very long, but clean. A slightly sugary aftertaste, nonetheless. Comments: a lovely Panamanian, no doubt, and it stays well within its style.
SGP:640 - 85 points. |
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Boulet de Canon ‘1’ (46%, Compagnie des Indes, blend, +/-2015)
We’re rather fond of this small French outfit, even if I believe they’ve been keeping a low profile of late. All’s well? This one’s a blend of rums from Trinidad, Barbados and Guyana, finished in Talisker casks. Indeed. They’ve released many Boulet de Canons since, but this is the first, so it carries a bit of historical weight (of sorts). Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s fresh, all on yellow and white fruits, it feels youthful, with a faint smokiness (Talisker?) that’s actually quite pleasant. More of a pocketknife than a cannonball at this stage, but we’ve nothing against a trusty penknife. Mouth: earth, ashes and even a hint of peat take the lead at first, though it quickly turns sweet. There’s a rather straightforward cane syrup character here. Finish: medium length, sweet and gentle in style, though never excessive. Comments: the name conjures something along the lines of a rampaging tyrannosaurus, but this one’s more like a cuddly lamb. Here too it feels a bit like it may have been slightly ‘dosé’ as they say in Champagne.
SGP:632 - 80 points. |
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Trinidad Distillers Limited 16 yo 2008/2025 (63.9%, The Colours of Rum, Up Spirits Club #3, Trinidad, 231 bottles)
Same question as when tasting Caroni, ‘heavy or light?’ Or a bit of both? If there’s no petrol-mango in here, I’ll eat my beret. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: petrol-mango (too easy, S.), freshly sawn orchard wood, peanut butter, and quite a bit of ethanol which initially gets in the way. Only one solution, with water: fresh plywood and new balsa, tar and coal tar, but also bitter almonds and two or three mussels in white wine. Yep. Mouth (neat): peach liqueur, mango liqueur, black pepper, basil, varnish, aniseed, liquorice, acetone. With water: slightly bitter olive oil, likely Spanish, then it unrolls into exotic fruits with salted liquorice. Finish: mango comes back to wave goodbye, which is nice. A hint of rose jelly. Very pretty salinity. Comments: let’s say it plainly, the mango and tar combo is irresistible. But how much is the Club membership? Not like at Turnberry, we hope.
SGP:662 - 90 points. |
One last pour, let’s make it pop… |
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Clarendon 10 yo 2004/2024 ‘MBS’ (60%, LMDW Foundations, Magnum series #2, Jamaica)
The MBS marque has nothing to do with any Saudi crown prince, this is actually the lightest marque from Clarendon/Monymusk, with likely fewer esters than Glenkinchie, unless the pipes hadn’t been properly cleaned after a previous ‘heavier’ run. Let’s see… Colour: gold. Nose: indeed light, but elegant, you’d almost think it came from Belize or Barbados, with dandelion, natural vanilla, popcorn, nougat, sugarcane juice, and quince jelly… With water: a touch of gently singed hay. Mouth (neat): there are a few esters, even a hint of wood glue, but the rest is soft, fresh, vanilla-driven, very much on almond croissants and those dainty Caffè Armani pâtisseries (best forgotten). With water: all on macarons and amaretti. But of course. Finish: curiously short yet still focused on small almondy pastries. Comments: nothing especially distinctive here, it’s just extremely good.
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
So, we need to find another creature, hang on a second… |
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Caroni 25 yo 1998/2024 ‘HTR’ (59.2%, Swell de Spirits, Private Garden, Intercaves Limoges)
Caroni is a bit like Port Ellen or Karuizawa ten or fifteen years ago, just when you think they’re gone, there’s more. HTR means ‘Heavy Trinidad Rum’, naturally, and Limoges is home to the most beautiful train station in the world, I assure you. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: well indeed, this one slams down the cocoa, American V8 engine exhaust, lit cigars, tapenade, and plastic model glue. You know the style... With water: even more exhaust fumes and coal tar. Mouth (neat): dry and woody as it gets, but that’s just how we like it. Likely tropical ageing, very politically correct, though it sometimes pushes the oak into heavy-handed territory. Fir wood, dark tobacco, thyme essential oil… On the flip side, the salinity and everything around the varnishy notes add some fine tension and energy to the whole. So far so good. With water: indeed, still good, the salinity takes over and we half expect oysters, mussels, razor clams and even lobsters to come clattering in. Forgot to mention our dear friends green olives and garlic cloves. Finish: very long, classic. Comments: after all these detours, and despite the now ever-present oak, we must admit this remains one hell of a spirit. Just don’t add too much water, even at 60% vol., as it only boosts the already pretty extreme tannicity. Bonkers rum.
SGP:373 - 90 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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August 1, 2025 |
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Today, we're setting off around
the world again |
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| The Chuan, Eimeishan, Sichuan, China (The Chuan) |
There really are an incredible number of new whiskies from all over the world, it's genuinely exciting, even if it's a bit hard to keep up with, one has to admit... We're starting from France, as usual. |
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Tchankat ‘Classique’ (43%, OB, France, +/-2025)
A whisky from the land of Armagnac, down in Gascony. Mind you, this isn’t malt, rather 80% maize, 10% barley and 10% rye. It’s been matured for three years in re-toasted Saint-Julien casks, so the cabernet influence should remain somewhat restrained. Colour: deep gold. Nose: not half bad, and thankfully it doesn’t reek of cassis or strawberry from fifty yards away, instead we’re more in shortbread and damp stones territory. Even the maize doesn’t seem to be overdoing it on the sweetness front, at least not on the nose. In short, it’s rather likeable. Mouth: nicely done, the French oak brings along a fair share of spices but that actually creates a rather smart style here, re-toasting the casks was clearly a shrewd move. Cherry tart dusted with cinnamon and grey pepper, although the texture is just a tad on the light side. No idea whether they’ve used their Armagnac stills (this is the Samalens house pulling the strings here) but it works a treat. We’re veering more and more towards kirsch and even guignolet. Finish: medium in length, still spicy, with a touch of woodiness persisting. Comments: no doubt about it, this is well crafted and doesn’t go off in all directions. You couldn’t even call it ‘winey’.
SGP:541 - 82 points. |
Let’s head to Brittany and Burgundy while we’re at it... |
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Eddu 'Carnet de Voyages – fûts de Bourgogne’ (46%, OB, France, 650 bottles)
A finishing of buckwheat whisky in Corton Grand Cru casks. That said, we’ve never been able, empirically speaking, to establish a direct organoleptic link between the prestige of a wine and the quality of a whisky finished in its casks. Frankly, between a Corton and a passetoutgrain, you’re unlikely to notice a real difference if the cask quality is comparable. Now admittedly, it rarely is… Colour: gold. Nose: this is distinctly earthy, slightly gamey, a touch madeira-like, with even a faint foxiness that’s not necessarily out of place in this context. The much-anticipated blackcurrants and stewed cherries only make a late appearance. Mouth: we’re well off the beaten path of malt whiskies here, edging closer to certain cask-aged gins in fact, with some quite unexpected citrus notes layered with wild mushrooms. It’s jolly amusing and even rather good, if one is game for an adventure. Finish: long, spicier, again mostly steered by citrus and forest floor. Comments: I’d say this sits more or less in the same league as the previous one.
SGP:551 - 82 points. |
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Tanaka (40%, OB, Vietnam, +/-2025) 
Here we have a rice whisky, produced by a Japanese gentleman in Vietnam. Hooray, it’s our very first Vietnamese whisky! Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s exceedingly light, leaning on vanilla, green tea, herbal infusions, a touch of rock sugar, and a little more vanilla… As it’s all very gentle, it can’t possibly offend – and indeed it doesn’t. Mouth: it’s sweet, light, lacking in texture, with faint hints of roasted hazelnuts, corn syrup, then a few tea-like tannins. Finish: very short. A dash of grey pepper. Comments: it’s likeable enough but I’d say it absolutely calls for ice. Which, of course, we didn’t use.
SGP:320 - 65 points. |
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The Chuan (40%, OB, China, Pure Malt, +/-2025)
Here’s the general release from this splendid distillery in Sichuan (courtesy of Pernod Ricard), which we had the pleasure of visiting in May. We’d already enjoyed two special editions, and here comes the most widely available version, probably the most approachable too, bottled at a friendly 40% vol. Beware, there’s Chinese mizunara oak inside! Colour: gold. Nose: we’re getting that Far-Eastern Speyside character again, a broadly classic malty structure uplifted by rather ‘Chinese’ notes, such as dried citrus peels (chen-pi), which we’re rather fond of, especially in older versions twenty years and up. There’s also a peculiar fermentary note that instantly recalls the place itself, notably their plum wine. Salted butter toffee ties it all together nicely. Mouth: very smart. The saline, resinous oak brings fir trees to mind, the plum comes back with gusto, as does the toffee, then a well-mannered array of spices joins in. That said, this is miles away from the hyper-spicy Sichuan cuisine style – of which we sampled some quite... remarkable examples, let’s say. As the locals put it, ‘it punches’. This pure malt, however, is much gentler… Finish: back into more classic territory with coffee, chocolate, prunes and richly malty dark beer. The 40% vol. never posed a problem. Comments: one often avoids using the term ‘entry level’, and in this case, that would’ve been a mistake indeed.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Amber Lane 4 yo 2020/2024 (61%, Truth & Consequence, Australia, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #94, 107 bottles)
Naturally, they took home gold at the IWSC. They use a pot still and practise double distillation, so a rather intermittent process, let’s say. Angus tried an Amber Lane a while ago – and quite liked it – but I’ve never had one in my glass, I’m afraid. The distillery is located in New South Wales. Colour: gold. Nose: inevitably a bit hot at this strength, the ethanol is quite forward but nothing out of the ordinary. Wee liqueurs, sugar-coated eggs, sweet African bread… We’ll be needing water. With water: quite a bit of saponification at first, then it settles down and heads towards fresh ginger, after which the whole thing begins to improve steadily. Orange cake, baklavas, various other Levantine pastries… Mouth (neat): a bit eau-de-vie-like at first, with a plum core and citrusy flashes on top. I believe water is essential here, as it so often is (well done, S.) With water: very nice now, chiefly on citrus zest, still with some fresh ginger clinging on. Finish: medium length, pleasant, with plum jam and ginger. Comments: I think this is a proper success, even if the youth is showing.
SGP:641 - 82 points. |
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Hellyers Road 21 yo ‘Peated’ (52.5%, OB, Australia/Tasmania, cask #20FO5c01, 2025)
This one’s a double maturation with four years spent in peated whisky casks. So it’s not a peated distillate per se but do note the second maturation took place in casks that had held peated malt also produced by Hellyers Road. So it’s self-double maturation, if that’s even a term. Colour: pale gold. Nose: just picture this, you’re smoking mango and cassata in peat smoke, then adding grapefruit juice and white Sancerre. Or Australian sauvignon blanc if you prefer. With water: in come the wilder touches, mud, raw wool, bread dough, grist, but the mango and banana still keep the place in order. Mouth (neat): absolutely pure and precise, the smokiness is assertive yet glorious (must’ve been a very heavily peated cask) while a myriad of white and yellow fruits, both grand and humble, frolic in the background. The oak is ever so slightly noticeable. With water: excellent stuff, saline, perfectly poised, with once again the character of a fine white wine. With oysters! Finish: long, on lemon, ashes, smoked fish and focaccia. Comments: nothing particular to add, this is classic Hellyers Road right where we expect it. That said, achieving such a peaty profile from a mere finishing, however extended, shows once again just how dominant, and even invasive, these molecules can be. But that’s just how we like it…
SGP:645 - 90 points. |
Since we’re in the Commonwealth, here’s another one ‘peated by the cask’… |
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Spirit of Yorkshire 6 yo 2018/2025 (57.1%, Decadent Drams, England, 2nd fill ex-Islay Barrel, 249 bottles)
In other words, this is Filey Bay, which we’ve already sampled several times. We had great fun earlier this year with their rather good ‘Orange Wine Barrique’. Colour: white wine. Nose: clearly, unless you’re a seasoned Filey Bay expert, it’s tricky to determine what comes from the distillate and what from the ex-Islay barrel. In any case, we’re near bread, grist, oil, chalky white soil à la albariza, and even, I kid you not, Alsatian flammekueche (flatbread, fromage blanc, bacon, onions). Hints of paraffin, wet chalk... With water: edging even closer to cereals and ashes. Mouth (neat): precise, peaty, lemony, yeasty. There are, albeit with less depth and complexity of course, certain resemblances to Tasmanian whisky. With water: the whole becomes more integrated, citrus stands out, there’s even a medicinal side (ha-ha!) and, shall we say, a touch more gentleness. It’s very well done. Finish: fruits and a few drops of crème de menthe take over, almost pushing out the Islay peat. Comments: to be honest, we had our doubts, but as we went along and kept adding a little Vittel (Nestlé, we didn’t find the cheque) this lovely composition came together beautifully. No, no politics.
SGP:655 - 88 points. |
Go on then, one last one, let’s head back to the Far East… |
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Nantou Omar 2015/2024 (53.8%, OB for HNWS, The Antelope & Kanpakai, Taiwan, virgin oak, cask #01180385, 187 bottles)
Just a reminder that these Omars are produced by TTL, a Taiwanese state-owned company. We’ve already tasted some cracking ones and in fact, we’re planning a full ‘Omar’ session soon with a good dozen or so. God willing… Colour: gold. Nose: this is all about barley purity and heavily charred oak, so think croissants, vanilla, banana and the like. In short, it’s simple yet rendered in high-def. With water: fresh herbs emerge, basil, mint, oysterplant, lemongrass, watercress… Mouth (neat): in my humble opinion, Omar leans closer to the Japanese in style when compared to its compatriot Kavalan (which we’re also rather fond of) whose approach is arguably more ‘international’. Anyway, this opens with a lovely, forthright attack, extremely close to yeast and barley, and therefore beer. It follows that same line. With water: notes of ginger, turmeric, ginseng, along with yellow peaches. Finish: fairly long, on herbal infusions, vanilla and fresh oak. Comments: perhaps not ultra-distinctive, but the quality remains very high in my most humble opinion.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
World malt whiskies just keep on improving, I get the feeling fewer and fewer fall into the sub-75-point category these days. Unless it’s the state of the world with its numerous predators that’s making us want to paint everything in a rosier light. |
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July 2025 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Old Orkney Malt 25 yo 1999/2025 (50.3%, Decadent Drinks, HHD + sherry butt) - WF 91
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Largiemeanoch 20 yo 1974 (50.6%, The Whisky Connoisseur, Arthur J.A. Bell, cask #2087, +/-1995) - WF 93
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
Orkney 10 yo 2013 (57%, The Whisky Exchange, Seasons: Winter, sherry hogshead) - WF 88
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
Clarendon 29 yo 1995/2025 ‘EMB’ (61.5%, The Colours of Rum, Jamaica, N°16, 148 bottles) - WF 91
Serge's thumbs up this month:
Unnamed Farm Distillery in the Heart of the Kingdom of Fife 2023-2024/2024 (63.4%, James Eadie, Project 1927, spirit drink) - WF 87.5 ;-)
Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
A.H. Riise ‘Family Reserve Solera 1838’ (42%, OB, Virgin Islands, +/-2024) - WF 15 |
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Best spirits Serge tried those weeks, 90+ points only
Glen Grant 12 yo (43°GL, OB for Armando Giovinetti, Italy, 75cl, +/-1970)
Isle of Raasay 5 yo 2019/2025 (61.1%, The Maclean Foundation, charity bottling, release 3, cask #557, 246 bottles)
Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky 30 yo 1993/2024 (48.2%, Casky Finest Selection & Revel Hibiki, refill barrel)
Hellyers Road 21 yo ‘Peated’ (52.5%, OB, Australia/Tasmania, cask #20FO5c01, 2025)
Trinidad Distillers Limited 16 yo 2008/2025 (63.9%, The Colours of Rum, Up Spirits Club #3, Trinidad, 231 bottles)
Caroni 25 yo 1998/2024 ‘HTR’ (59.2%, Swell de Spirits, Private Garden, Intercaves Limoges)
Domaine d’Espérance 23 yo 2001/2025 (49.7, The Colours of Armagnac, Bas-armagnac, No.1, cask #71, 210 bottles)
Laubade 23 yo 2001/2025 (50.7%, Grape of the Art, Bas-armagnac, cask #90, 251 bottles)
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