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| Hi, you're in the Archives, July 2025 - Part 2 |
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July 24, 2025 |
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A variety of very different Bowmores on the table, till '69
Bowmore firmly holds a spot in our top five in terms of the number of different expressions we've tasted, and today we're going to mix things up a bit. For instance, we mentioned the partnership between Aston Martin and Glenfiddich the other day, so it’s now time to sample a Bowmore that also happens to be the result of a collaboration with this iconic car brand. We'll just avoid bringing up any issues with electronics, clutches, overheating, or sluggish gearboxes. Right... |
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Bowmore 21 yo ‘Aston Martin’ (51.4%, OB, Master’s Selection Edition 4, 2024) 
The 22-year-old from 2022 had been decent (WF 83). The trouble with this recent 21 is that it was hurled into some Tawny Port, which doesn’t exactly scream ‘Aston Martin’ if you ask me. But let’s set aside all prejudice and press on… Colour: bronze gold. Nose: hmm, stock cube, mead, spent fireworks, boot polish, leather, stewed red fruit, buds, and dried raisins… With water: the more ‘Bowmorian’ traits emerge—sea water, peat, oysters, liquorice… In short, it’s better with water. Mouth (neat): in the vein of those early wine-finished Bowmores, starting with the inexpressible ‘Claret’. It clashes in a Miles Davis circa 1970 kind of way—the resemblance ends there, alas for this Bowmore. Smoked prunes, scorched orchard leaves, and lashings of umeshu as served in a sushi joint. With water: again, slightly improved, though there’s lavender and violet poking through. Oops, just like the old days. Finish: medium in length, on smoked red fruit jam with a slightly soapy edge. Comments: one really wonders whether it wasn’t the Aston Martin mechanics who cobbled this together, a serviceable dram, but entirely far-fetched. Not for us, really, they ought to try Toyota next time…
SGP:664 - 78 points. |
Quick, let’s try to pull ourselves together—with a barrel… After all, when it comes to casks, according to our theory, less is more, isn’t it? |
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Bowmore 26 yo 1997/2023 (51.1%, The Whisky Agency, 15th anniversary, The Perfect Dram, barrel, 124 bottles) 
Colour: pale gold. Nose: lovely age, splendid vintage, pristine purity, gorgeous exotic fruits, and a magnificent coastal profile—it couldn’t have turned out any better, especially after the 21 AM. With water: about three litres of Loch Indaal water, lemons, clams, pinewood smoke, and a splash of Sauvignon Blanc… Mouth (neat): on those creamy citrus notes Bowmore does so well, both fresh and oily, with a lemony, salty peat of the highest order. And let us not forget the oysters. With water: same again, it’s utterly delightful. Finish: likewise, only even saltier, as is often the case towards the end. Comments: even before our nose hovered over the tulip glass, we knew this was going to be a 90. There must be some kind of energy at play…
SGP:565 - 90 points. |
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Bowmore 2002/2025 (58.2%, Malts of Scotland, Rare Casks, for The Whisky Dreamers, bourbon hogshead, cask #MoS25014, 146 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: we’re back in the more tropical, fruitier, and downright seductive vintages, yet the whole remains very pure and taut—in short, it’s lovely, almost effortlessly so, and in the best possible sense. But do watch those watts (ha, up to 59.9% we tell ourselves it’s manageable, past 60.0% and it’s playing with fire). With water: the mango bursts wide open. Mouth (neat): this one meets the 1997s in sheer clarity and precision, very ‘clear line’ style, though with added iodine and a feeling of petrichor. With water: Bowmore in high definition—mango, lemon, sea water, beechwood-smoked salmon, and do pass the Riesling, please. Finish: no real shift, which is a good thing, though once again, it gets a tad saltier. Comments: we went in hunting for flaws and came back empty-handed. So, according to our patented system stretching as far as Kamchatka and beyond, this will be, once more…
SGP:655 - 90 points. |
How about revisiting some past glories? No heatwave in Alsace these days, so let’s make the most of it, we’ve got a clear run ahead… |
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Bowmore 30 yo 1990/2020 (53.7%, Kingsbury for Club Qing, hogshead, cask #3971) 
Angus has already tasted it. And of course, he liked it a lot, but let’s not allow ourselves to be swayed, eh… Colour: pale gold. Nose: there’s a whiff of paraffin oil, or a parcel from Temu to start with, though in this context, that’s not necessarily a bad omen, as gradually fresh fruits begin to sneak in, especially wee citrus ones, then metal polish, varnish, glues, and more and more oyster juice, petrol, rhubarb, green tomatoes… In fact, the complexity only grows from there. With water: still a little chaotic, as if the cask had sprung a leak or been on a few escapades. Wool, chalk, sourdough, and the like. Mouth (neat): salty pear eau-de-vie, in an old Bowmore? Water ought to straighten out all those molecules… With water: ah yes, there we are, it all falls into place, a 90% manzanilla blend with 5% seawater, 5% lemon juice, and 5% pear juice. I do hope those figures add up… perhaps not. Finish: long, very slightly acetic, always very salty, maritime, and still a tad unruly. Comments: quite a different old Bowmore, perhaps with some discreet remnants of the 1980s, and something of a fascinating puzzle piece. But do set aside some time if you're going to tackle it…
SGP:565 - 89 points. |
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Largiemeanoch 20 yo 1974 (50.6%, The Whisky Connoisseur, Arthur J.A. Bell, cask #2087, +/-1995)
No need, surely, to remind anyone that these Bowmore/Largiemeanoch bottlings belong in the pantheon of malt whisky, ever since that head-turning 12-year-old 1967. So, let’s remain humble… Colour: white wine. Nose: the early Largiemeanoch were loaded with intergalactic sherry, but here we’re faced with something of unfathomable purity—passion fruit, peanut butter (pure, naturally), and gently salted pink grapefruit. Dazzling. With water: that old tweed jacket, the one that’s seen countless downpours and tempests, and yes, even a wet dog. A very small dog, a Yorkshire. Mouth (neat): please summon the Anti-Maltoporn Brigade sofort! Never before had we imagined smoked and salted bergamot jelly. With water: the austerity returns, citrus peels and high-grade Italian bitters. Forget anything too crimson in colour… Finish: long, with the emergence of meaty and fishy notes that only serve to amplify the overall complexity. There's even a drop of nuoc-mam and a hint of bitter almond right at the death. Comments: none, except that we no longer recall what became of The Whisky Connoisseur. Must dig into that one day. Reminder, the Largiemeanoch 1967/1979, credited to Howgate Wine Co., was WF 97. Not that it matters in the slightest, of course.
SGP:666 - 93 points. |
We continue, going back through the years, with one final dram… |
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Bowmore 36 yo 1969/2006 (44.0%, Duncan Taylor, Peerless, cask #6090, 233 bottles)
There were many sublime Bowmores from the 1960s in the stocks of Abe Rosenberg/Duncan Taylor, and here’s an example, likely a proper fruit bomb. Colour: white wine. Nose: a genuine fruit bomb. One still wonders why Bowmore (and Laphroaig too) threw away the recipe! It’s really just an astonishing fruit salad from every continent, with mango, passion fruit and those dainty pink bananas taking the lead, before—slightly fashionably late, we must say—mineral and ashy touches stroll in ‘for the glory’, as it were. There’s also fresh mint, lavender honey, a touch of candle wax, and a whisper of new fabric. That’ll do, we’ve not got all day, but just to note, the minerality builds in stature, though it never dares unseat the fruit salad, which sits proudly on the throne… Mouth: this is getting embarrassing. We’re moving into citrus overload territory, layered with all sorts of ashes and those wonderfully salty Bowmore notes said—after a few drams—to come from the barrels having been rolled through Loch Indaal to reach the puffers when they couldn’t dock at the pier. Aye well, take that as you will. Finish: long, even saltier, with a touch of ultra-premium margarita, grapefruit and salt in the dying embers. Comments: must dig out those old Malt Maniacs articles that, if memory serves, spoke of peat ‘transmuting’ into tropical fruit with age. This is right up there with the stellar Largiemeanoch. Worth mentioning though, some of the sister casks were less robust, less spectacular, possibly down to natural ABVs nudging closer to 40%.
SGP:754 - 93 points. |
Now that was what you’d call a proper tasting session at WF. |
(Thank you, KC and Steffen) |
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July 23, 2025 |
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It had been a while since we last tasted Glenfiddich! Hard to believe that when I first sampled single malts – in an “American-style” bar in Burgundy – the only ones available were Cardhu (with the white label) and Glenfiddich; the rest were still virtually unknown! But I know, that was ages ago... Anyway, today we’re going to taste a recent version of the famous 12-year-old, followed by a more prestigious release that did come out last year. Sound good? By the way, no Wardhead (teaspooned Glenfiddich) in the stash at the moment, are they still circulating? Oh and Glenfiddich are apparently sponsoring Aston Martin in F1 these days, they have even just launched a celebratory co-branded 65 yo 1959 into Harrods, 79,000.00 £GB (I mean a bottle of whisky, not a car). After Bowmore, it would seem Aston Martin have taken quite a liking to a broad selection of whisky brands lately… |
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Glenfiddich 12 yo ‘Our Original Twelve’ (40%, OB, +/-2025) 
We last sampled this humble 12 back in 2018, and it wasn’t bad at all (WF 83). Colour: gold. Nose: maltier and greener than expected, with sharp wee green apples all over the place—utterly unmistakable. Then come the expected pears, melon rind, buttery croissants (mais bien sûr), and a touch of freshly cut grass. Hints of young oak and a whisper of liquorice wood flicker in the background. All very pleasant, really, with a rather charming Proustian quality about it. Mouth: yes, fresh again, with a delightful wee acidity, rather fine light oak, and once more those just-under-ripe apples and pears. These add a welcome brightness, lifting the whole and keeping any sluggishness well at bay. A dainty shard of shortbread too. Finish: not exactly the longest of finishes, but in this case the modest 40% vol. isn’t too much of a handicap. A few zesty notes help bridge the gap left by the missing watts. Some clean peppermint in the aftertaste. Comments: I see no reason to downgrade this fresh and chirpy little malt—utterly easy-going and faultless in its own right. Still very pleased with it, even… decades on from my first ‘fiddich!
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
Just as an anecdote, on my first trip to Scotland, I was also served Glenfiddich, but at the time it was almost mandatory to drown it in ginger tonic or other questionable fizzy drinks. Anyway... |
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Glenfiddich 31 yo ‘Grand Château’ (47.6, OB, 2024) 
Roughly 2,000 bottles, according to an AI—I know, I know. Oddly enough, this elderly wee creature was finished in Bordeaux rouge casks for no fewer than 9 years, so technically we’re looking at proper double-maturation. At nearly 2,000 Euros a bo', one sincerely hopes said Bordeaux—labelled ‘rare’ by the brand—was from a 1st Grand Cru Classé. Colour: somewhere between salmon and apricot. Nose: the wine’s influence makes itself known straight away, with vineyard peaches, upmarket sangria (but of course), blackcurrant jelly and blackberry jam, all neatly draped over a tray of pastries, scones, blueberry muffins and the like. Gentle touches of liquorice and mint lend a civilised air to the whole. It’s very much a winesky, but one of the haute-couture kind on the nose, no doubt. But when, oh when, will the invasion of red fruits in malt whisky finally come to an end? Mouth: here we drift a little closer to the malt again, with blood oranges, a touch of gunpowder (presumably from a bit of S******, quite unobtrusive), reminiscent of many an ex-sherry. Then come cherry pie with honey, pepper, cinnamon, and something frankly akin to mulled wine, with brown sugar, star anise, cloves, and more cinnamon. Finish: rounded and pâtissier, with a surprising rum-raisin and old ratafia character in the afterglow. Comments: there’s clearly a broad blended aspect here, or even something mildly trans in character, but one cannot deny it’s very well put together, and of course a bit of open-mindedness goes a long way. Now then, which Grand Château was it really?
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
The question, naturally, remains: is a bottle of Grand Château really worth forty-five bottles of the 12-year-old? I’ll let you decide... Oh and after thorough research, it turns out that the name of the Bordeaux château used to finish the Glenfiddich 31-year-old "Grand Château" has not been publicly disclosed, neither by the brand, nor by the château. |
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July 22, 2025 |
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Deanston, we have a problem…
Indeed, yet another serious contender for the SHOTY Award in San Francisco (Stupidest Headline Of The Year). In any case, the issue is that we don’t have enough Deanston, even though improbable versions have been multiplying over the past few years, but still, it’s a name that’s practically come back from the dead within those years. We like Deanston, let’s see what we’ve got…
(AI slop) |
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Deanston 17 yo 2002/2020 ‘Organic PX Finish’ (49.3%, OB, 3,102 bottles) 
A finishing in organic PX, do admit that’s rather amusing. You might say we’ve taken five years to finally crack open this baby. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s not earth-shattering, but it’s well-balanced, on cake, walnuts, sultanas and amber ale. Some toasted hazelnuts and dried goji berries. Nothing further to declare. Mouth: a notch greener, a little wobblier, with a bitterness one wouldn’t quite expect from an ex-PX—perhaps that’s the organic angle at work (only teasing, mind). A faint note of bell pepper and green walnut sneaks in unannounced. Finish: long, leaning towards a dry bitterness, Noilly Prat, Fernet Branca, bitter chocolate, and a touch of rubber… The aftertaste is slightly astringent. Comments: we didn’t start with the easiest dram, that much is clear, but it does have its merits. For instance, the organic character of the wine, though aren’t all the great wines organic nowadays?
SGP:461 - 80 points. |
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Deanston 15 yo ‘Tequila Cask Finish’ (52.5%, OB, 2023)
I know, yet another tequila finish, but I implore you, let us not be afraid! Mind you, the finishing did indeed take place in casks sourced from the highlands of Jalisco, which had previously held 100% blue agave tequila made from plants aged 7 to 8 years. Said casks had already been used four to five times prior. Right, we know the lot now, don’t we? Colour: white wine. Nose: not much in the way of tequilaness or agaveness at this point, rather a malty malt, leaning towards bruised apples and candlewax. With water: hints of paraffin and a subtle note of olive oil. We rather like that. Mouth (neat): odder, fairly rubbery, with lime peel and a distinctly offbeat edge. The addition of water should do it a world of good. With water: indeed, much improved, becoming saltier, the olive oil makes a comeback, a faint smokiness emerges (think pine wood smoke), and the tequila finally begins to show itself. Finish: medium in length and a tad more earthy. Green walnuts. Comments: we’re not exactly doing cartwheels, but it’s not bad at all. I nearly added a ‘caramba!’ (it’s getting worse, S.)
SGP:551 - 81 points. |
Let’s move on to the indies, if you don’t mind… |
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Deanston 17 yo 2008/2025 (50.3%, The Whisky Agency, ruby Port barrel, 164 bottles)
Hurrah, The Whisky Agency! But oops, ruby Port? What happened there? Let's have a look… Colour: reddish amber. Nose: frankly, I’ve no idea where this is coming from, but there’s a tomato sauce aspect (a serious case of synaesthesia?) mixed with shoe polish and a hint of peat that… well, actually works. Do you believe in miracles? These little blackberries and that salted butter caramel go together rather splendidly, it reminds me of one of the finest puddings ever served by the late André Parra at the Ermitage de Corton in Chorey-les-Beaune, though I really don’t know why I’m telling you that. With water: more polish and cherry eau-de-vie. Mouth (neat): this is proper supercharged Port, seriously. Blackberries and candied cherries, both preserved and jammy, along with stewed bell pepper and a fair amount of blackcurrant bud. With water: the blackcurrant bud takes centre stage. Finish: similar story. Bitter oranges and blood oranges in the aftertaste. Cherry clafoutis right at the very end. Comments: utterly improbable, yet it works. I was bracing for disaster, but it is The Whisky Agency after all!
SGP:561 - 83 points. |
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Deanston 2008/2023 (60.2%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, the Midnight Series, refill butt, cask #DL1854, 662 bottles)
Why Midnight Series, I’m not entirely sure. Perhaps slightly darker casks than usual? Colour: gold. Nose: there’s a little rubber here, possibly from the sherry cask, but mostly it’s all about chocolate and Ethiopian mocha. That said, at this strength one had better add water without delay. With water: this leans a bit towards old plum brandy, even a touch of rustic Armagnac. Mouth (neat): very much young eau-de-vie, tutti-frutti straight from the still, or indeed plums, especially after a second run through. In short, it’s a tad ‘hot’… With water: not much development, really, we remain in plum and cherry jam territory. May I recommend the one from Itxassou in the Basque Country? Finish: good length, still plummy and, above all, that rubbery note we already encountered earlier in this session. Comments: in short, I think this is pretty good, but perhaps not quite essential.
SGP:551 - 81 points. |
Promise, next time we’ll have some ex-bourbon or ex-refill hoggie Deanston. In the meantime, see you soon, stay tuned. |
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July 21, 2025 |
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A little trio from Dufftown |
We’re talking about the Dufftown distillery here, not the small town of Dufftown itself, which, as you know and as far as I’m aware, is home to Glenfiddich (William Grant & Sons), Balvenie (William Grant & Sons), Mortlach (Diageo), Dufftown (Diageo), Glendullan (Diageo), and Kininvie (William Grant & Sons). Convalmore and Pittyvaich are no longer operational, as you’ll also be aware. |
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Singleton of Dufftown 12 yo ‘Luscious Nectar’ (40%, OB, +/-2025)
It’s curious, this recent need among distillers to tack names onto age statements, as they’ve done here with ‘Luscious Nectar’, which does sound a little like ‘slop’, doesn’t it? Colour: gold. Nose: light and pleasant, in the style of its same-aged neighbour whose name ends in ‘fiddich’. Malt, bruised apples, multifloral honey, a touch of custard. A slight sense of überblend, if you see what I mean. Mouth: fully consistent, light, malty, faintly herbal, otherwise on nicely ripe apples and a hint of Earl Grey tea. Finish: fairly short, on fruity beer. Comments: woosh, it almost slipped by without notice. Nectar, I’m not so sure. Luscious, certainly not.
SGP:441 - 76 points. |
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Singleton of Dufftown 18 yo ‘Sublimely Smooth’ (40%, OB, +/-2025)
The last time we tasted the 18 was back in 2013, and it hadn’t exactly blown us away (WF 79). Let’s see if there’s been any progress, even though the word ‘smooth’ tends to send half the malt aficionados running for the hills. But not ‘the neighbours’... Colour: gold. Nose: still rather gentle, though seemingly a notch fuller than the 12, with discreet touches of beeswax, candied orange peel, and the subtlest suggestions of coriander seed and garden-fresh mint leaves. It’s an attractive nose, not exactly a bomb, but undeniably charming in its soft-spoken way. Mouth: alas, the 40% strength no longer quite does the trick, even if the profile holds together with notes of orchard apples and Valencia oranges lightly steeped in honey, along with a barely-there hint of mild Espelette pepper. One might dream of this elegant arrangement being issued at a more conversational 45% vol. Finish: shortish but by no means hollow, with lovely, warming spices and a rather endearing finale on lemon and orange marmalade toast. Comments: appears to have fared better than last time, though after twelve years, such judgments inevitably carry a dash of speculative romance.
SGP:451 - 80 points. |
Come on, let’s call on the good old days… |
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Dufftown-Glenlivet ‘Over 8 Years Old’ (80° proof, OB, Arthur Bell for Sposetti Genoa, cork stopper, 1960s)
Attention, there have been sublimely stellar versions of this 8-year-old, such as the one for Ghirlanda in Italy around 1968 (WF 92). 80° UK proof equates roughly to 46% vol., as you know. Colour: gold, very slightly bronzed. Nose: and here we are, metal polish, bone marrow quenelle soup, braised chicory, top-flight mead, antique orange liqueur and the faintest, most discreet trace of cork, almost imaginary. Mouth: a hint of peat smoke, old raisins in a tin box that clearly predate the moon landing (they do last forever), ancient herbal liqueurs, and without doubt a touch of tiredness that veers into pine resin territory more than it ought to. Finish: long, though slightly bitter, remaining on fir bud liqueur and resinous notes throughout. The aftertaste leans towards salted honey. Comments: it’s always a bit of Russian roulette with these old bottles, and timeworn corks rarely do favours, but there’s still a clear glimmer here, after sixty years or more, of the intergalactic calibre this juice once possessed, even if it’s now re-entered Earth’s atmosphere. Right.
SGP:571 - 85 points. |
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July 20, 2025 |
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A few more rums, some extreme
First, the usual apéritif, and probably quite a bit of sugar...
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Dictador 16 yo (40%, OB, Colombia, +/-2024) 
Fruit of the inexpressible ‘solera system’. They told me this 16 wasn’t too bad, but let’s remain cautious… Colour: deep gold. Nose: well, this isn’t dreadful, it’s got a developed edge yet remains rather fresh, on dead leaves and bay, nori, then praline and ginger liqueur. It’s that latter element that’s a bit troubling, truth be told. Mouth: oops, this is still terribly sweet, even if it doesn’t immediately trigger rejection, even at room temperature. Still, it’s not good, the flavours are unpleasant, with burnt sugar and rubber. Finish: fairly long, and that’s precisely the issue. Very ‘burnt sugar’. Comments: unpleasant at 20°C, though I imagine it might go down more acceptably at 5°C. A rather poor wee thing, really; the ‘Capítulo I’ we tasted last time was far better, in our opinion.
SGP:720 - 39 points. |
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TDL 2006-2008/2024 ‘Harmony’ (57%, Vagabond Spirits for Takumi Spirit, ex-bourbon, Trinidad)
TDL, essentially, is the new Caroni, isn’t it? Colour: amber. Nose: it’s fruity, the texture feels of the ‘light’ kind, with orange liqueur, acacia honey, candyfloss, and a whole bag of sugary Easter eggs. With water: tar and shoe polish come out first, then wafts of fresh plywood and a decidedly Ikea-like character. Mouth (neat): there’s a rough, bagasse-like edge to it, gritty yet sweet at the same time, with rather striking acidity. Belize does spring to mind… With water: everything seems to gather around preserved lemons, olives, and honey. It’s very sweet-salty and gently bitter-sweet at once. Finish: same. Comments: not easy to pigeonhole, but I rather enjoy this gently improbable ‘self-blend’.
SGP:552 - 85 points. |
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Saint James 12 yo 2010/2023 (45%, La Maison & Velier, Magnum Series #2, Alex Webb Edition, Martinique, agricole)
This is the Magnum Series linked to the famous photo agency, though these aren’t magnums. I think this is going to be good. Colour: full gold. Nose: oh yes, cassata, strawberry muesli, white clover honey, fresh turmeric, fennel and star anise. Bright as the lens on an old Leica (eh?). Mouth: terrifyingly beautiful and distinguished, it truly resembles nothing else. Delicate hints of coconut cream, then all those spices we just mentioned, especially the aniseed. It’s rare to find this much anise, even chez Pernod Ricard (ahem), but as it happens we adore anise. In short, this is a true Martiniquan pastis. Finish: very long and now very bitter. Extreme liquorice and extreme anise. Comments: love it or loathe it – your call. There’s something properly bonkers about it.
SGP:471 - 89 points. |
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T.D.L. 8 yo 2016/2025 (67.5%, The Colours of Rum, ex-bourbon, Trinidad, cask #4, 314 bottles)
Yet another blatant assassination attempt at 67.5% – where are the authorities when you need them? Colour: gold. Nose: at this stage, we’re not far from the Vagabond, both estery (glues) and fresh and fruity (pineapple, pear, amyl diacetate and so on). With water: quite remarkable how it falls into line, becoming soft and fruity (pear liqueur), but also showing lovely and elegant touches of fresh tyres, engine oil, plus honeysuckle, iris, jasmine… All of this is rather fascinating to follow. Mouth (neat): it hits hard, all glue and pear indeed, so let’s not linger – water, quickly… With water: bang on, quite amazing how water smooths everything out, even if some notes of sticking plaster start to emerge, alongside lemons and lemon balm. Finish: long and surprisingly salty. Comments: a real treasure hunt, as one gradually tames it down from 67.5% to around 45%.
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
We're heading straight to Jamaica... |
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HD 9 yo 2015/2025 ‘DOK’ (68.9%, The Colours of Rum, Jamaica, Edition #17, cask #2, 297 bottles)
I trust you know that in rum, ‘HD’ doesn’t stand for Harley-Davidson, right? But ‘DOK’ means 1,500 to 1,700 gr esters/hlpa, which is roughly the ‘eleven’ on Nigel Tufnel’s Spinal Tap scale. Colour: deep gold. Nose: at such strength, there’s barely anything perceptible, one simply wants to save her/his nose and olfactory bulb. Let’s say there’s a bit of acetone, Formica, and balsa. With water: dried pears, jujubes, bicycle patches, an old moped, worn tyres, and a genuine heap of dried flowers, which is rather unusual. Mouth (neat): well, this isn’t really ‘enjoyable’ at this strength, it’s almost, say kind of vulgar (Everclear is near) and ‘industrial’. Let’s move on… With water: much better, though it remains a touch odd, jumbled, rounded, curious, and not all that ‘DOK’ in the end. These beasts are truly difficult to bring down to an ideal drinking strength, it seems we rather failed here, to be perfectly honest. Finish: same. Comments: I think we somewhat botched this one, frankly. Mea Culpa.
SGP:552 - 82 points. |
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Hampden 1 yo 2023/2025 ‘Oloroso’ (62.3%, The Colours of Rum for Catawiki, Jamaica, cask #135, 75 bottles)
1,300–1,400 gr esters/hlpa here, so a proper C<>H. One must say, the ultra-young HDs from this series we’ve tasted so far have been nothing short of interstellar. Colour: full gold. Nose: UHU glue, formic acid, gherkin brine, and garlicky mussels in white wine. With water: more petrichor, fresh tar and black garlic. I find it utterly brilliant, I fear. Mouth (neat): as for the oloroso, who knows, but the rest – glue and salted liquorice galore – is utterly gorgeous. One just needs to enjoy this rather, let’s say, excessive style. With water: superb saline tension, marked by whiffs of acetone and ammonia. It’s absolutely mad, really. Finish: massive salty and ‘chemical’ bitterness, which inevitably pushes the drinker into a bout of introspection, something along the lines of, do I really like this, and if so, why do I like it, am I normal, will society judge me, etc, etc, etc. Comments: pure madness, the kind you simply won’t find in malt whisky; bacterial fermentation has clearly become the flavour of the day. Just saying…
SGP:374 - 90 points. |
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HD 15 yo 2009/2025 ‘DOK’ (55.9%, The Whisky Jury, The Ester Hunter, Jamaica, refill cask, cask #3, 173 bottles)
Just to remind you, that’s 1,500 to 1,700 gr esters/hlpa. Octomore looks like a lemonade in comparison. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s rather immaculate yet far from simple, on seawater, citrus, oysters, tyres, clams, cigarette ash, seaweed, and peat smoke… Peat smoke? With water: you've just opened a massive jar of pickled gherkins – congratulations! Mouth (neat): massive indeed, mezcal and burnt tyres, cocoa, ashes, hyper-intense coffee… With water: a great deal of salinity, which slightly upsets the rest, though we happen to adore saline (formerly ‘mineral’, formerly ‘salty’, occasionally ‘vertical’) wines and spirits. Finish: very long but a little mad, let’s be honest. It feels a bit like you’ve just drunk the entire Mediterranean Sea, from Gibraltar to the Gulf of Iskenderun. Comments: what a beauty, this is the manzanilla of rum! But beware, if ultra-salty spirits aren’t your thing, step aside and leave the bottles for those of us who are into it. Us, for instance.
SGP:364 - 91 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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July 19, 2025 |
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Happy Birthday to Angus!
We've got two or three things to celebrate this month on WF, for instance, our 23rd anniversary on 27th July, and I believe we'll be tasting a few Broras we've never tried before. We're also celebrating Angus's birthday – today he's joining us a day early to mark his fortieth with some of his favourite distilleries, all in legendary bottlings. - S. |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent andskilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland |
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Old Laphroaig for my 40th plus suitable aperitifs
It's my 40th birthday this weekend. As such, I thought it would be as good an occasion as any to write notes for all these rather tasty old Laphroaig 10s that have accumulated here at Whiskyfun's Scotland office. It's also true that I tend to mark every major milestone in life with a large Laphroaig session on WF, so why break this enjoyable tradition now. |
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UPDATE: I also just became an Uncle for the first time last night, courtesy of my sister. The best possible 40th birthday present, so this session is really for my beautiful new niece. Like an independent bottling of a heavily protected, top level malt whisky brand, she remains, for now, unnamed. |
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Apart from Laphroaig, I am a Glen Grant lover as well, and this being my 40th, it seems like the sensible course of action to prime our palates with some old Glen Grant. Now, since we are starting out with an aperitif that would ordinarily put the brakes on just about any session, it seems only fitting that we have a strategic 'pre-aperitif aperitif'. Is there a name for that? An amuse-dram? |
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Glen Grant 1948/1960 (70 proof, Berry Brothers, bottled 1960) 
A bottle I opened with recently with good friends in London, Serge already beat me to penning notes for this baby. Colour: pale amber. Nose: some kind of astonishing and miraculous old sherry cask influence that no longer exists. A whole forest of mushrooms, petrichor, damp earths, mosses, aged tobacco, cigars in an ancient and well-kept humidor, peat embers in a cast iron hearth, dried orange rinds, bergamot, cough syrup and more old furniture and library aromas than Downton Abbey (I've never watched it I'm afraid, not sure how accurate that is). Mouth: two parts ancient sauternes, one part herbal cough syrup, two parts green Chartreuse and one part black miso paste. Broths, earth, embrocations, wax, totally dried out honey, herbal teas and peaty camphor (what?). Finish: medium but dazzlingly waxy, earthy, full of dry peat smoke, dried out old herbal liqueurs, very old tobacco and more umami vibes of soy sauce, miso and Maggi! Comments: pretty much as expected. This at even 43% would have been incredible, as things stand, it'll be a mere...
SGP: 562 - 92 points. |
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Glen Grant 27 yo (100 US proof, Gordon & MacPhail, Esquin Import for USA, securo cap, c1963)
I'm not only a Glen Grant fanatic, but a total securo cap geek too, so this is very much 'birthday appropriate'... Colour: deep gold. Nose: one of those aromas that is totally laden with honeys, fir wood resin, pure honeycomb, cask aged mead, exotic hardwoods, herbal tinctures, medicinal embrocations and pure beeswax. Astonishing density - like a black hole for honey and wax! Also tiny salty edges begin to creep in, umami seasonings, broths, waxed hessian, paraffin. With water: just a couple of drops here, but the nose becomes immediately fresher and more balanced by many crystalised and dried exotic fruits, also melon and the impression of a blend of ancient Benedictine and Drambuie (need to try that sometime!). Mouth: you remember 100 proof USA = 50% ABV and we are quite some way from the usual experience of old G&M bottle + 100 proof (which usually equates to around 57% ABV. Not that it isn't immense whisky, and in fact it probably benefitted from that targeted reduction, it's alive with mechanical and workshop oils, vapour rubs, old dried out flower honeys, pure camphor, crystalised lemon slices and endless things like putty, sheep wool, dry herbal notes. The faintest suggestion of dry peat smoke, or perhaps just coal smoke, in the background. With water: more powerful now, more of a gravelly mineral character: struck flints, pebbles and chalk etc. Then hints of natural tar, wormwood, pine resin, salted honey and more mead and herbal liqueurs. Finish: long, herbal, elegantly spicy, some drying turmeric earthiness and more of these dazzlingly dense honey and wax vibes. Comments: as we often observe when tasting these very old Glen Grants: this is pure, effortless class! Perhaps one of the reasons I love Glen Grant so much, apart from its obviously pleasurable qualities, is that there are just so many amazing old bottlings of it to be unearthed, even after many years of searching for and tasting these old rarities. As a whisky it was bottled consistently by the owners but also by so many different merchants, bottlers, importers and private entities. That's easy to understand when you taste these amazing old Glen Grants, but it means there are so many to taste and they document a changing malt whisky over the best part of a century in a remarkable and endlessly entertaining way.
SGP: 662 - 93 points. |
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OK, on with the main act. I will attempt to do this in an order that, more or less, goes backwards in time. If I get it wrong, please complain directly to Serge. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo (43%, OB, litre, c1988)
Colour: gold. Nose: soft, quilty, aromatic peat smoke, sea air and abundant mangos. Really this trademark balance of dry and elegant, yet distinctive peat with medicinal embrocations and exotic fruits. I get the feeling we are going to be really pushing the boundaries of how to describe this profile during the course of this session... Mouth: superb arrival, an almost jelly-like textural exotic fruit, like tropical fruit salad juices pooling in the base of the bowl, all muddled up with some peat embers, a sloosh of seawater and some iodine drops. Stunningly juicy and moreish palate! Finish: medium, but gloriously on peated mangos, passionfruit, dried guava and coal smoke. Comments: pretty emblematic and a perfect jumping off point for this session. No wonder they sold this in litre bottles, utterly lethal!
SGP: 655 - 92 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Single Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (40%, OB, Rossi Import, cork, 75cl, late 1980s)
The first of a few by this importer... Colour: pale gold. Nose: very proximate to the litre, but perhaps a noticeable softness which we're assuming is due to the lower ABV. Still, we're in a comfortable world of embrocations, delicate exotic fruits, smoked teas, mineral salts and seashore aromas. Mouth: still shines very brightly at this slightly measly bottling strength. Perhaps a slightly more even balance between peat and fruit here, plus a little more lean towards citrus on the latter. Finish: longer in fact, more lemony, more on smoked teas, seawater, grapefruit and fragile peat smoke. Comments: same as for the litre, but we just lose one point for the slightly softer presentation...
SGP: 554 - 91 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (43%, OB, Japanese Import, cork, late 1980s)
Love the line on this label 'Genuine 10 Years Old'... Colour: deep gold. Nose: a significant leap up! This is really a much deeper, richer and more emphatically peaty profile, with strong waxiness, more complex coastal inclusions and even more luscious exotic fruit notes. Fir wood resins, coal smoke, engine grease and sheep wool. Amazing sense of texture. Mouth: just brilliant, immediately enveloping and powerfully peaty, with dried and ripe exotic fruits in harmony, lemon cordial, iodine drops, Umbongo and crystalised mango. Finish: immense, a big, generous and effortless swell of arid peat smoke, sea salt, tar, iodine and jellied tropical fruits. Comments: even if you are highly familiar with these old Laphroaigs, they can still come out of the shadows and mug your socks off if you're not careful. Totally astonishing old whisky of immense character, poise, power and depth that just leaves you a little speechless. This is the quality that I have sometimes referred to as whisky that goes beyond just technical accomplishment and also has 'soul' - even if that does sound like some kind of grasping, latter day marketing doublespeak.
SGP: 655 - 94 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (40%, OB, UK market, screw cap, c1985)
We have always assumed that the wee codes in the lower corners of the labels on these old 10 and 15yo bottlings, denoted the year of bottling. In this case it's 85264. Not sure anyone has ever been able to confirm for certain if that's the case though. The first two numbers do generally seem to correspond with the evolution in design and packaging (screw caps to corks etc) throughout the course of the 80s into early 90s. Although, the codes only seem to have been in use from around 84-88? If there are more learned Laphroaig lore wizards out there on the internet, please step forth... Colour: gold. Nose: soft medicinal embrocations, that familiar sense of gentle, yet thick peat smoke, and all the usual underlying dried and preserved tropical fruits. I would add some beautiful heather honey and waxes into the bargain with this one too. Mouth: beautifully luscious with the fruits really up front on this one, supported by stunningly fresh and pristine coastal qualities. Beach pebbles, drying seaweed, rock pools, sand and iodine all muddled in there. Some bitter lemon and grapefruit too. Finish: long, harmoniously fruity once again, on salted honey, delicate peat smoke, some TCP and waxiness. Comments: at first I felt this one was in trouble after that immense Japan import, however, while on the lighter side, it's still gorgeous and commendably stands firm!
SGP: 654 - 92 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (43%, OB, Rossi Import, screw cap, -/+ 1985)
I have no doubt there are plenty of you out there who know a lot more than me about precisely dating these old bottles nowadays, so please forgive my highly 'ballpark' school of bottle dating for these notes... Colour: gold. Nose: We are back to similar Japan import territory. This is similarly rich, deep, much more vivid, immediate and impactful than those later 80s examples. The profile is dense and peaty, with more sherry influence than on the Japan version and a totally stunning salty, umami and earthy profile that brings in nori, seaweed, soy sauce and then goes more towards these tropical fruit notes, only they're more focussed around specifically dried exotic fruits and exotic fruit teas. You really feel the shift in eras here towards 'old' Laphroaig. Mouth: absolutely stunning! Call the anti-maltoporn brigade! Totally beautiful, powerful but simultaneously dry and slightly brittle peat smoke, natural tar, hints of bone-dry Fino en rama, crystalised guava, lapsing souchong, iodine drops and a stunning waxiness, both in flavour and texture. Finish: astonishing, a glorious burst of pure kiln peat smoke, tar, wood resins, camphor, iodine and smoked honey! Comments: I cannot decide between this or the Japanese import, although I find this one a shade drier and peatier.
SGP: 566 - 94 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (43%, OB, St Raphael Import, France, screw cap, c1984)
We are going to be having a bit of a battle of the nations in this tasting, I probably should have mentioned previously... Colour: gold. Nose: it's so funny (and amazing) how these various batches / vattings of old Laphroaig 10yo seem to teeter between fruitier versions and peatier versions. This one is really leaning more towards exotic and really rather embarrassingly opulent fruits. A rich medley of passionfruit, guava, papaya and mango. All backed up by wafts of delicate peat smoke, bitter grapefruit, seawater and preserved lemons in brine. No messing about here. Mouth: similarly amazing. These old 10s remind me of the old Lagavulin 12 year old cream label bottlings, in that there are many versions with wonderful, often subtle variations, and most will blow your cotton socks off! Lusciously fruity and getting richer and peatier, gathering power as it goes along. Perhaps a notch sweeter with some subtle honey notes too. Finish: another gloriously long, fruity finish that's compellingly balanced by elegant peat, salted honey, waxes and tiny salty notes. Comments: I would also say that there are probably many more batches of the old Laphroaig 10s compared to the Lagavulin 12s. Anyway, we probably shouldn't score everything 94 points in this session, so, for sake of variety, we'll say a measly 93 for France ;)
SGP: 654 - 93 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (43%, OB, Seager's Australian Import, screw cap, -/+ 1985)
Here comes Australia... Colour: pale gold. Nose: first the Ghillie's Club, and now this! Whose underback did those Aussie's smooch to deserve this! Despicably fruity, an upturned tropical fruit market. Pure exotic fruit smoothies, sandalwood, distant sandy beaches, coal smoke, tar, lemon oil, seaweed and a single drop of iodine. I'd say this profile feels more driven by lighter, more refill profile wood influence, but that's pure speculation. Given time there's an utterly beautiful and pretty subtle peat note coming through. Mouth: same comments as on the nose, but the palate is saltier and earthier and much more rugged and powerful than expected. Once again, your mind cannot help but think about more refill moulded, distillate driven characteristics. Stunning salinity, hypnotic tropical fruit, perfect, bone-dry peat. Finish: gah, you don't need to know. Whole goonbags full of juicy fruity peaty old Laphroaig! Comments: I'm afraid we have no choice but to return to...
SGP: 655 - 94 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (43%, OB, South Africa import, screw cap, -/+ 1985)
South Africa's turn... Colour: gold. Nose: perhaps ever so slightly more discreet, that is, on bone dry, beautiful peat smoke, wood smoke, smoked teas, camphor, hessian, salted liquorice, seaweed, coastal aromatics and beach pebbles. A gorgeous profile, but you notice the slight absence of fruits after the previous ones. Now, of course, if we were tasting this after the present batch of 10yo, we'd be veritably gushing about all the fruit on display! Mouth: aligned with the nose, in that it's more dominated and driven by saltiness, coastal qualities, waxes, petrol, medicine, pure peat smoke, tar and camphor. In time there are some glimmers of grapefruit, guava, mango and citrons, but they're all on the subtle and background side of things. Finish: long, glorious, stunningly dry, salty, mouthwatering, would give the greatest Manzanillas and Finos a serious run for their money. Stunning traces of tropical fruit teas in the aftertaste. Comments: we are nit picking, but I suppose we have to. I adore this drier, leaner profile of old Laphroaig, but I also think just a notch more exoticism does elevate things even higher.
SGP: 466 - 93 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Unblended Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (90 US proof, OB, Buckingham Wile import, USA, screw cap, early 1980s)
There are notes for this one multiple times on WF already, to the point that it’s becoming silly. However, as already observed in aforementioned notes, there must be batch variations for these bottlings, which means we always have to record notes whenever a new bottle crosses our path. That's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it. Colour: pale gold (there are certainly darker vattings under this label, so the whole batches argument does bear some weight). Nose: South Africa's salinity + Australia's fruitiness, all given oomph by these extra degrees of alcohol = a totally incredible nose. This goes really into even more exotic and vividly fruity territory, pure, ripe, exotic fruit medleys. Fruit salad juices, seawater, pink grapefruit, waxes - utterly exquisite and mind blowing. Mouth: it's the peat and salty, coastal qualities that dominate and take the lead from the arrival. Amazing precision, power and intense fusion of all these influences. The fruits are still there but they're sharper, more crystalised, drier and even showing a tiny hint of acidity. Indeed, the whole thing is astonishingly fresh, vibrant and immense. Finish: glorious, extremely long, everything all at once but with perfect cohesion and sense of purpose. Comments: mesmerising old Laphroaig. Almost makes you a bit melancholy, imagine if all Laphroaig 10s over the decades had been bottled at 45%... Anyway, I stand by my excuse that there are many batch variations of these old 10s and as such, they are always worth revisiting from bottle to bottle. This one is really quite extraordinary.
SGP: 766 - 95 points. |
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Laphroaig 10 yo 'Islay Malt Scotch Whisky' (43%, OB, Rossi Import, screw cap, 1970s)
Let's see if this one can climb over the USA import. It's entirely possible we did these final two in the wrong order... Colour: deep gold. Nose: deep, fat, earthy peat smoke, layered with dried exotic fruits, tropical fruit teas, dried herbs, ancient medicinal ointments and tinctures, old rope, creel nets, mineral oils, ideas of old leather, beeswax and camphor. You do get the sense that you are going back a step even further into Laphroaig's history. There's a depth, a breadth and fatness of character and texture here that really speaks with the accent of direct coal firing, worm tubs, floor maltings and brewers yeast! With time it's really this stunningly dense, fat, dry, old style peat that totally dominates the nose. Mouth: actually, we needn't have worried at all about whether this one would suffer by comparison. This is really in the same league as other old famous Italian imports such as Bonfanti. What's amazing is, after all those amazing later bottlings, how much you notice the dominance of the peat here and how the character of the peat has shifted so decisively. I would say those 1980s bottlings are on whole fruitier and lighter than this. Finish: very long, extremely peaty, perfectly dry, saline, with delicate tropical inclusions and just a general sense of utter, spellbinding perfection. Comments: I am probably far too generous, far too emotionally bound up in these whiskies and not particularly analytical or professional in the slightest. But, lest we forget, this is WhiskyFUN, and I am turning 40, and I don't care ;)
SGP: 565 - 95 points. |
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I owe hugs to KC and eternal gratitude to Yan for this session. |
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PS: In case you are wondering, 'did he make a megaphroaig blend of all of them?' Yes, of course I did. I'm not an idiot! And you'd be correct, it's pretty sublime. Cheers! |
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July 18, 2025 |
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A mini selection of seriously
boosted Brackla |
No doubt this will be an adventure, as at least the official ones, like their mates over at Aberfeldy, can be finished in some rather unexpected casks. In short, we’ll see what’s in the stash... |
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Royal Brackla 10 yo 2014/2024 (46%, James Eadie, first fill barrel and refill butt, casks #1598-303564, 1155 bottles)
We had tasted an excellent 2013 in the same series (WF 87). Colour: apricot. Nose: curiously winey to begin with, with poached peaches in red wine, stewed cherries, strawberry jam... But where on earth is that coming from? Mind you, it’s most enjoyable, especially as we then veer off towards Battenberg cake (like), chocolate mousse and rosehip herbal tea. Amusing and very pleasant, with vanilla appearing a little later on. Mouth: those surprising winey notes return on the palate, though less pronounced, together with blood orange, bay leaf, cherry stems tea, and a hint of ginger tonic… Finish: same composition lingering for quite some time, with a slightly bitter aftertaste (Seville oranges). Comments: a pretty good wee Brackla, though it feels somewhat less compact, polished and coherent than what James Eadie usually proposes, or so it seems to me. For once.
SGP:561 - 82 points. |
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Royal Brackla 10 yo 2014/2025 (48.2%, Signatory Vintage, Small Batch Edition #17, first fill sherry PX hogshead finish)
Another young malt that's fairly ‘budget’, which we’ve absolutely no quarrel with. Colour: full gold. Nose: oh, how funny, we've just popped open a fresh tin of shoe polish while a teapot of lapsang souchong sits nearby, along with a hefty walnut and raisin loaf. You get the picture. Mouth: quite close to the previous one, with a certain tension, but also spiced herbal infusions, salmiak, dark honeys, and even the usual black turrón, here bolstered by black pepper and a wee lick of tar. Finish: fairly long, more peppery still. Peppermint and black pepper as the signature. Comments: again, this wee Brackla was far from typical, but the combination with PX worked rather well.
SGP:562 - 84 points. |
We’ll finish with an official bottling that’s also had a bit of a boost for a few months: |
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Royal Brackla 22 yo ‘Exceptional Cask - Tokaji’ (53%, OB, casks #50,000-50,004, 1380 bottles)
The label doesn’t seem to make it clear, but once again, this is just a finishing, although in the case of Tokaji, that might actually be good news. Incidentally, we’ve never quite understood why Sauternes finishings tend to work fairly well, while those in Tokaji have given us, over the past 25 years, some perfect little monsters. Longrow 1995, anyone? Right then, let’s get to work… Colour: gold. Nose: immediately dissonant, a bit like Ozzy singing Bach, but in the end, I think it sort of works, even if the apricot tart and banana cake notes are wildly ‘over the top’. Masses of cake batter too, pre-oven, already packed with sultanas steeped in kirsch. With water: notes of nougat with a heavy dose of honey. Mouth (neat): it’s like we’re sipping a very sweet muscat, say from Samos. Except this is stronger, of course. With water: imagine a mix of viognier, gewurztraminer and muscat. That’s rather fun too, though I reckon it could use a good deal of ice. Finish: same again, very fruity, almost sweet without quite crossing the line. Comments: perhaps best enjoyed over a Japanese ice ball? We do like it, though maybe not €300-like—it’s a pricey little muscat, ha.
SGP:741 - 84 points. |
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July 17, 2025 |
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A Fettercairn trio, formerly Old Fettercairn
Quite simply because it’s been a good while since we last tasted Fettercairn, which we consider to be one of the few truly transformed malts of recent years. Generally speaking, they’ve become very good — which isn’t something you can say about everyone, is it? |
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It's worth noting that Fettercairn celebrated its 200th anniversary in 1824, as it was the second Scottish distillery to receive an official licence. A series of limited and vintage editions was released, but we've never seen them anywhere. We probably just haven’t looked properly. (Picture Fettercairn) |
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Fettercairn 14 yo (47%, OB, ex-bourbon, travel retail, 2024)
According to the owners, this is an expression where ‘tropical and orchard fruits intertwine with delicate sweet spice’ Let’s have a look then… Colour: white wine. Nose: there’s still a bit of that yeasty, slightly dirty/funky side found in older bottlings, which is exactly what makes Fettercairn a truly distinctive malt. A malt that isn’t at least somewhat distinctive is of no interest, is it? Anyway, it smells of bière de garde, crêpe batter, cider, pear, damp chalk, and indeed there’s a touch of tropicality, though more in the shape of not-quite-ripe bananas than anything properly exuberant. Mouth: much the same on the palate, it’s a little bittersweet, still fairly yeasty, peppery, leaning more towards pear juice than mango, if you catch my drift. Apple juice mixed with mirabelle plum juice, plus a little white pepper and a touch of paprika. Nice enough. Finish: fairly long, with a return of the bière de garde and pepper, and a marked gueuze-like character. Comments: in short, a very good Fettercairn that hasn’t let go of its dirtiness, nor its pepper, nor that very faint soapy edge. Applause!
SGP:662 - 86 points. |
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Fettercairn 17 yo (47%, OB, travel retail, 2024)
One learns from an airport website that this wee dram contains 259.7 kcal per 100 grams, which adds up to a rather staggering 1,817.7 kcal per bottle, thus explaining why it’s wiser to sip our whiskies in moderation if we don’t want to be upsized too quickly. Amongst other reasons, naturally. Colour: chardonnay. Nose: very honestly (I know, that never sounds like much when you open with that), this isn’t far off the 14-year-old, just more focused on citrus, tangerines, zest, old-school triple sec… Which means it’s less ‘dirty’, but still quite lovely all the same. Mouth: very good, all on mint and citrus, you could almost believe it was a Metropolitan French mojito with a splash of Cognac. Nothing more to add, except that the little combo of wax, ginger, pepper, and paraffin remains tucked away in the background. Finish: fairly long, with no major shifts other than a few touches of bitter orange liqueur. Comments: I like both versions.
SGP:661 - 86 points. |
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Fettercairn 28 yo (42%, OB, first fill bourbon, +/-2024?) 
Let’s be upfront: we weren’t particularly fond of the first version of this 28, some seven or eight years ago. The price was rather high too, though back then all the Scots seemed to believe anything around 30 years old was worth 1,000 Euros. Colour: deep gold. Nose: er… this is somewhere between new trainers, feints, bruised apples, cider vinegar and farmhouse yoghurt! It’s actually kind of likeable, eminently different from anything you’ll find elsewhere, and remarkably easy to intellectualise, if you see what I mean, though it’s a long way from being remotely crowd-pleasing. Right then… Mouth: oof, this is tough, honestly. Like the leftovers of a Swiss or Savoyard fondue from last week, diluted with Calvados by a vindictive soul. Finish: difficult, cheesy, yeasty, peppery, but again, kind of likeable in its sheer strangeness. Comments: a manzanilla gone wrong, without even passing through the amontillado or palo cortado stage. In fact, it’s the extreme oddness of this old juice that gives it charm, though it’s most definitely not one for ‘the neighbours’. Right, that’s enough politically correct commentary.
SGP:372 - 70 points. |
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July 16, 2025 |
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A small sack of grains
We do this from time to time, taste the few grains we've received over the past weeks or months. Note that we’ll be staying in Scotland and avoiding column-distilled malts, which because of that become grains up there. However, if you distil grains in a pot still, they still won’t count as single malts (ooh, S.). Let’s pick one at random... |
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Girvan 33 yo 1991/2024 (46.0%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, barrels)
Colour: light gold. Nose: light and pleasant, on corn syrup, sweetshop treats, vanilla and coconut liqueur. A little chamomile as well. Mouth: still light, sugary, all on sweets and more coconut. A kind of sugary English tea with a good deal too much sugar. Finish: medium in length, no particular development. Sweet and rather narrow. Comments: no wonder it’s not very ‘malty’ at all (I know what I'm tryng to say), and no matter how hard I try, I shall never truly manage to enjoy these ultra-light whiskies originally designed to tame malts and cut costs. Unless we stumble upon some stellar sherry casks, but we shall see…
SGP:630 - 78 points. |
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North British 32 yo 1991/2024 (46.6%, Whisky for Leiden, first fill bourbon, cask #264532, 185 bottles)
In theory, it was corn. Colour: white wine. Nose: I find this much better on the nose, it’s less sweet and more herbal, with a much more restrained coconut and vanilla combo, along with lovely green teas and a touch of blond tobacco. Very pleasant at this stage. Mouth: it really makes a difference on the palate, with admittedly some notes that are a little too sugary for me but also touches of gentian and wild carrot. In short, some rootiness, and that’s something we quite enjoy. Finish: it gets sweeter but remains fairly under control. One just shouldn’t linger too long on the finish, perhaps by quickly reaching for a wee glass of water. Comments: not bad at all, I think.
SGP:540 - 83 points. |
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Invergordon 18 yo 2006/2024 (62.3%, Wilson & Morgan, sherry, cask #446)
Let’s be honest, slipping an ex-sherry Invergordon into a grain line-up is almost unfair to the others. Colour: dark amber. Nose: immediately high-grade old bourbon territory, with varnish and wood glue, maple syrup, toffee, chocolate, chestnut cream and green walnut liqueur. With water: bouillons, cigars and leather! Mouth (neat): are we absolutely sure this isn’t Enmore in disguise? Though do mind the strength… With water: aggressive in a rather charming way, quickly turning ‘Japanese’, with umami, soy sauce and, to be honest, MSG. Frankly, it’s pretty extreme, but we’re not here to do embroidery (our warmest regards to embroiderers everywhere). Finish: varnish returns, alongside chestnuts and walnuts. Comments: top grain, and there really isn’t that much of it about, at least in my humble opinion. One barely even noticed that the aftertaste was actually a tad sugary.
SGP:661 - 88 points. |
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Butterscotch & Vanilla & Toast & a Generation 30 yo (40%, Atom Brands, blended grain, +/-2023)
Blimey, they really went for it! I shall taste this blended grain discreetly; I’d be far too worried someone might see me… Colour: light gold. Nose: well, blow me, it’s not bad at all, with touches of sesame, hay, white chocolate filled with grated coconut, and candy apples… Mouth: it’s light but not weak, featuring sweet herbal teas with rock sugar, still that white chocolate with coconut that might evoke childhood memories for some, roasted peanuts rolled in sugar… All rather pleasant. Finish: not long but as soft as a sunset over a Greek island (really?) A surprising little salty touch. Comments: charming and very understated, almost a no-lo whisky. Indeed, there are good ones!
SGP:330 - 84 points. |
Since we're on the topic of blended grains… |
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Compass Box ‘Hedonism 2024’ (43%, Compass Box, blended grain, 1st fill bourbon barrel, 7746 bottles)
Big effort on the label, very ‘Gustav Klimt’, with a decent budget clearly devoted to the gilding. Colour: straw. Nose: I rather like this, with vegetable oils, leaves, soft little resins, even a faint smoky touch, and above all, mercifully little of that deafening vanilla and coconut duo. Doesn’t feel too weak at 43% vol. Mouth: well, it’s still grain, but it’s neither too hollow, nor too mute, nor overly sweet. A sort of popcorn-in-the-haybarn with a squeeze of lemon, if such a thing existed. Finish: a bit short, but the lemony side saves the day. Not bad. Comments: does the warbling live up to the plumage? Perhaps…
SGP:440 - 82 points. |
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Strathclyde 20 yo (52.9%, James Eadie, Distilleries of Great Britain & Ireland, 1st and 2nd fill marsala hogsheads, 364 bottles)
Unlike malt, grain is really all about the cask, end of debate… And we’re rather chuffed, turns out we were in Marsala barely a month ago, I may have told you before. Yes indeed, that’s Sicily, southwest coast. Colour: full gold. Nose: very smart indeed, the grain has drawn in the earthy fudgey tones of the marsala, even the faint fermentary edge and a whiff of fire-baked bread. With water: gentian! Where on earth did that come from? Mouth (neat): still recognisably grain, the texture remains a little soft, but there are unsweet raisins stepping in to lend a hand. With water: and boom, the gentian returns to the rescue, more discreetly than on the nose. Gentian cordial (do you know Suze?) Finish: medium in length but pleasant, thanks to its earthy, rooty profile. Comments: very fine grain, and a rather unusual one at that.
SGP:451 - 84 points. |
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Girvan 9 yo 2015/2024 (59.3%, Single Cask Nation, 1st fill bourbon hogshead finish, cask #193413, 280 bottles)
Great Scott, they dared bottle a 9-year-old Girvan! Either the windows at Single Cask Nation HQ were already spotless, or this is actually very good… Colour: light gold. Nose: I’d wager it’s the latter, peanut oil and sunflower oil, with this unexpectedly fatty side, plus faint puffs of ink and light herbal teas. With water: proper popcorn and vanilla cream, then most of all, metal polish and motor oil. Hurrah! Mouth (neat): highly entertaining, it rather feels like swallowing a mix of limoncello and nail varnish—not exactly recommended, mind you. With water: it gets even funnier, with some asparagus, soft soap, varnish and paraffin. Finish: gentler, but marked by almonds, pistachios, and still that vegetable oil. And hey, a bit of pear on the aftertaste. Comments: this is great fun while still managing to be a bit intellectual. Do remember, this is 9-year-old Girvan we’re talking about.
SGP:550 - 85 points. |
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Strathclyde 34 yo 1989/2023 (51.1%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, oloroso hogshead finish, 366 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: not bad, the sherry does its job, with roasted peanuts, turrón, praline, a pack of blond cigarettes, honey, glacé cherries and raisins. With water: pu-ehr tea, earthy and almost smoky, which is rather nice. Mouth (neat): chocolate, chicory, dried raisins, salted butter caramel. With water: it loses a bit of stamina here, a pity, perhaps best not to add water. Some coconut begins to show, and in this particular context and only in this context, coconut is the enemy IMHO. Finish: not very long but reasonably pleasant, except for the aftertaste which leans a little too far toward stale tea. As usual, it lacks just a touch of texture. Comments: started off very well. Save the water, it’s better, and together, we’ll save the planet.
SGP:550 - 80 points. |
One last quick one, nicely done, hopefully… |
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Port Dundas 24 yo 1999/2024 (51.8%, Whisky Age, hogshead, cask #711825, 247 bottles)
Always those very handsome labels, perhaps just a little too handsome for plain old grain whisky. Alright then, I exaggerate. Colour: white wine. Nose: hold on, something’s gone terribly wrong, they must’ve blended mezcal and nail varnish and bottled the result. Glorious nose, but is this really mere grain whisky? I rather doubt it. That said, let’s not forget Port Dundas was the seminal grain distillery. With water: just glorious milk chocolate. Mouth (neat): crème brûlée and varnish, butter cream, orgeat, pistachio syrup, macadamia nuts… What sort of sorcery is this? With water: no, skip the water, it falls apart a little on the palate. Best forgotten… Finish: coffee storms in, mocha, all pairing beautifully with the crème brûlée. Comments: one might almost call this the perfect 5 o’clock whisky.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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July 15, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today peace, love and Tullibardine
Often a rather unusual malt, in the best possible sense. Let’s see what we’ve got…
(Tullibardine Distillery) |
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Tullibardine 13 yo 2012/2025 (53.5%, Liquid Treasures, The love and peace series, 1st fill palo cortado quarter cask, 117 bottles)
Now then, just like last time, this label feels tailor-made for us boomers. Colour: deep gold. Nose: indeed, it’s the palo cortado speaking loud and clear, and we’re not the least bit displeased. Gorgeous Andalusian vinosity, all on walnuts, mustard, herbs, bitter oranges, but also old cellar, ancient casks, mushrooms, saltpetre… We’re very much into this… With water: splendid walnut and raisin cake with a sprinkle of cinnamon. Already mouth-watering. Mouth (neat): very fine bitterness, just like in a true palo cortado, followed by those bitterish oranges, a bit of tobacco, and a rather surprising basaltic edge. Some preserved lemon too. With water: it rounds out and mellows nicely, though black pepper also makes an entrance. Let’s call it peppered and honeyed orange liqueur. Finish: long, attractively spiced and, above all, thoroughly Jerezian. Aftertaste on crushed pepper and dark chocolate. Comments: we may be closer to Jerez than to Blackford, but that suits us just fine.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
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Tullibardine 12 yo 2012/2024 (55.8%, Alister Walker’s Infrequent Flyers, virgin oak finish, cask #804984, 227 bottles)
Well now, one can’t help wondering whether the next use of this cask will be a ‘2nd fill virgin oak finish’, even though that’s clearly an oxymoron, isn’t it. Colour: full gold. Nose: this is rather the polar opposite of the palo cortado version, even if there’s a shared DNA, on baker’s yeast and pepper. Banana skins, mandarin liqueur, sourdough, a drop of shampoo, and a little church candle (votive)… With water: pizza dough and oregano. I’ll have a napoletana, if you don’t mind. Mouth (neat): this is good, defined by pink pepper and a notably lemony hop. With water: that citrusy aspect from the fresh oak really bursts forth and does risk overwhelming the palate a touch. Finish: long, all on citrus syrups and liqueurs. Aftertaste somewhat liqueur-like, then oddly saline. Comments: the sherry version did rather outshine this baby, but it remains a fine little dram. So then, can one actually mature whisky in 2nd-fill virgin oak? Answers on a proper postcard, please.
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
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Best spirits Serge tried those weeks, 90+ points only
Bowmore 36 yo 1969/2006 (44.0%, Duncan Taylor, Peerless, cask #6090, 233 bottles)
Bowmore 26 yo 1997/2023 (51.1%, The Whisky Agency, 15th anniversary, The Perfect Dram, barrel, 124 bottles)
Bowmore 2002/2025 (58.2%, Malts of Scotland, Rare Casks, for The Whisky Dreamers, bourbon hogshead, cask #MoS25014, 146 bottles)
Largiemeanoch 20 yo 1974 (50.6%, The Whisky Connoisseur, Arthur J.A. Bell, cask #2087, +/-1995)
Hampden 1 yo 2023/2025 ‘Oloroso’ (62.3%, The Colours of Rum for Catawiki, Jamaica, cask #135, 75 bottles)
HD 15 yo 2009/2025 ‘DOK’ (55.9%, The Whisky Jury, The Ester Hunter, Jamaica, refill cask, cask #3, 173 bottles)
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