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November 2025 - part 1 <--- November 2025 - part 2 ---> Current entries

 

November 20, 2025


Whiskyfun

A merry bunch of Glen Garioch

Glen Garioch is probably the malt that has changed the most over the years and decades, from the grand, sherry-forward official bottlings of the 1960s, to the sublime peated versions of the 1970s, then moving on to orchard fruit concentrates, and even passing through more floral, lavender-led styles at the same time as its cousin Bowmore. Quite simply, Glen Garioch has done it all.

Red kite/Rotmilan, wonderful photograph by Claudio Gotsch, as seen on a Glen Garioch by Acla Selection
Red kite

 

 

Glen Garioch 11 yo 2011/2023 (52.5%, Acla Selection, Classic, barrel, cask #2744)

Glen Garioch 11 yo 2011/2023 (52.5%, Acla Selection, Classic, barrel, cask #2744) Four stars
A bottling for lovely Switzerland. Colour: white wine. Nose: we’ve seldom come this close to orchard-fresh apples and pears, not overripe, mind, but delightfully crisp and sharp. With water: small waxy and earthy touches emerge, along with a clear farmhouse cider note. Mouth (neat): faultless fruitiness with a touch of wax. Apples and pears once again, plus a hint of sour cherry that keeps everything lively and cheerful. With water: very good, with a little mint creeping in. A slight pot ale edge too. Finish: fairly long, fruity, uncomplicated, but flawless. Comments: what one might call an allrounder. Nothing to fault here.
SGP:551 - 85 points.

Glen Garioch 7 yo 2015/2023 (53.8%, Acla Selection, 10th Anniversary, cask #5124, 239 bottles)

Glen Garioch 7 yo 2015/2023 (53.8%, Acla Selection, 10th Anniversary, cask #5124, 239 bottles) Four stars
We always feel at home in Switzerland. Colour: white wine. Nose: this time we’re greeted by flint and fresh motor oil, before the usual orchard apples and pears settle in, with a touch of banana for good measure. It’s interesting, because at this stage it strikes me as more complex than the 11-year-old from the same august house we’ve just tasted. With water: back to flint again. Mouth (neat): really lovely, with a variety of fruit eaux-de-vie and fresh lemon juice. It also sends a few rogue sparks up your spinal column and you find yourself thinking this would go beautifully with a platter of oysters. With water: cracking acidity! Finish: long and ultra-sharp, on lemon, green apple and half a drop of honey. Comments: all that’s left is to order that famous oyster platter.
SGP:561 - 85 points.

Glen Garioch 14 yo 2011/2025 (50.1%, Single Cask Nation, 1st fill bourbon hogshead, cask #160444, 197 bottles)

Glen Garioch 14 yo 2011/2025 (50.1%, Single Cask Nation, 1st fill bourbon hogshead, cask #160444, 197 bottles) Four stars
Colour: northern Californian chardonnay. Just kidding. Nose: very much in the same vein, only slightly rounder, with a little more soft honey (acacia) and peanut oil, plus touches of old paper, which we’re rather fond of. With water: the Williams pear comes through nicely. Mouth (neat): a fruit salad supercharged with eau-de-vie made from the same fruits. Not sure if that makes sense, but there you are. A bit of honey then soothes everything. With water: apples and pears. Finish: apples and pears. Comments: there’s great consistency across these vintages and ages.
SGP:551 - 85 points.

I reckon we could line up three dozen Glen Gariochs of roughly the same age and vintage, and still come up with the same score every time — 85 out of 100. But what can we do about it?

Glen Garioch 2015/2023 (53.5%, Swell de Spirits, Wild Nature Series, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #5078, 353 bottles)

Glen Garioch 2015/2023 (53.5%, Swell de Spirits, Wild Nature Series, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #5078, 353 bottles) Four stars
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: what I’ve learned over time and many tastings is that the folks at Swell de Spirits favour aromatic and flavour precision, and rarely let their casks get in the way. Here’s yet another example, with a sharply defined pear and just a few drops of olive oil. Unstoppable. With water: a splash of ink and first rainwater added to the mix. Mouth (neat): spot on, razor-sharp, clean lines, lemon, cucumber juice, tart apple and a proper Sèvre-et-Maine muscadet. With water: more austere, more herbal, with some coffee notes barging in to stir things up. Finish: long, now almost drying, but still nicely tangy. Comments: what a quirky little beast! Definitely off the beaten path.
SGP:461 - 87 points.

Glen Garioch 16 yo 2009/2025 (61.3%, Scout Drinks, Taiwan, barrel, cask 657, 130 bottles)

Glen Garioch 16 yo 2009/2025 (61.3%, Scout Drinks, Taiwan, barrel, cask 657, 130 bottles) Four stars and a half
New operator, great soul, immense passion and knowledge, what could go wrong? Colour: pale gold. Nose: this is once again a gentler version, waxy and almost jammy to begin with, yet it quickly veers towards candied citrus fruits, ripe mango and passion fruit, with even wee touches of camphor and eucalyptus creeping in. With water: hints of bitter almonds, absolutely spot on. Mouth (neat): very lovely, cassata, panettone, all manner of candied fruits, preserved mandarin, quince, marzipan… All of it perfectly aligned. With water: a few drops of triple sec and, would you believe it, a tiny oyster bringing a dash of coastal character. Finish: medium in length but delightfully fat, with wee herbs and seaweed. Aftertaste rather saline. Comments: faint ties to the fatty peatiness of decades past. Cracking little middle-aged Glen Garioch.
SGP:562 - 88 points.

Glen Garioch 12 yo 2012/2025 (53.6%, Dràm Mor, 1st fill Madeira finish, cask #1002, 129 bottles)

Glen Garioch 12 yo 2012/2025 (53.6%, Dràm Mor, 1st fill Madeira finish, cask #1002, 129 bottles) Four stars and a half
I’ve never truly understood—nor tried to, to be honest—why Madeira pairs so well with Scotch malt whisky. Perhaps it’s an island soul thing? Colour: orangey amber. Nose: cigars and orange zest, chalk and apricot liqueur, all lightly dusted with grey pepper and the softest mustard imaginable. With water: bitter orange liqueur, like the sort old Alsatians mix into their beer as an apéritif. Mouth (neat): exactly what one hoped for, just a drop of vinegar, mustard, walnuts, tobacco and candied citrus fruits, all in perfect harmony. Between us, this reminds me of Benromach—I only mention it because we’ve just tasted a few. With water: very salty and bitter, very Sercial, very much in fino-style Madeira territory. Our favourites, naturally. Finish: long, acidic and bitter, but in the best possible way. Comments: it converses wonderfully with the ‘Scout Drinks’, despite the great stylistic distance between them. In short, it’s damn good.
SGP:462 - 88 points.

Glen Garioch 12 yo 2011/2023 (52.2%, DramCatcher, cask #4909, 72 bottles)

Glen Garioch 12 yo 2011/2023 (52.2%, DramCatcher, cask #4909, 72 bottles) Four stars
There may not have been many bottles, but what matters is that the spirit is strong. Colour: white wine. Nose: a return to a simple yet lovely GG, all green apples and chalk. With water: apple tart dusted with ground cinnamon and brown sugar. Mouth (neat): soft, very pretty, on lemon, apple and honey. Nothing to argue about. With water: apple cake. Finish: same again. Lovely honey. Comments: don’t assume the brevity of this tasting note means we only moderately liked the whisky. Not at all, it’s very good indeed.
SGP:551 - 85 points.

Glen Garioch 14 yo 2010/2024 (53.1%, Maltbarn, bourbon cask, 165 bottles)

Glen Garioch 14 yo 2010/2024 (53.1%, Maltbarn, bourbon cask, 165 bottles) Four stars
And my word, how much we’ve loved these labels! Colour: pale gold. Nose: peanut oil, custard, white chocolate and scones. There’s something microscopically precise about this. With water: closer to barley, sourdough, witbier, and also a few blossoms—honeysuckle, that sort of thing. Mouth (neat): just perfect, like beer eau-de-vie, pepper, tart apples and hay jelly. Few people know hay jelly, but it can be stunningly complex. With water: no change. Finish: fairly long, with very subtle fruitiness, almost cerebral. Comments: magnificent, simple yet complex (hey?), but in any case, demanding of your full attention. And that label! I know, total boomer stuff…
SGP:551 - 87 points.

Glen Garioch 21 yo 2003/2024 (53.9%, OB for Wu Dram Clan, 1st fill oloroso, cask #808, 681 bottles)

Glen Garioch 21 yo 2003/2024 (53.9%, OB for Wu Dram Clan, 1st fill oloroso, cask #808, 681 bottles) Four stars
Colour: dark amber. Nose: is this rum? Or bourbon? Or some sort of hybrid? What a riot, there’s toffee, fudge, pralines and those assorted Christmas chocolates churned out by a multinational with ties to every supermarket chain (you know the one). Add a few drops of walnut stain and really, you’ve got quite the nose, dry, bold and very much in a Jerezian register. With water: grandmother’s walnut cake and gingerbread. A welcome break from all that globalised confectionery. Mouth (neat): powerful, almost violent, even though the ABV isn’t sky-high. We’re into essential oils, pine, thyme, linden blossom... Holy Suzy! With water: full-on resins, bitterness, and sheer concentration… Finish: very long and deeply resinous. Comments: a cheeky little GG that really shakes up your assumptions. We’ll need time to recover…
SGP:371 - 87 points.

Glen Garioch 29 yo 1988/2022 (46.2%, Thompson Bros., refill hogshead, 99 bottles)

Glen Garioch 29 yo 1988/2022 (46.2%, Thompson Bros., refill hogshead, 99 bottles) Three stars and a half
I doubt a single bottle remains, but I couldn’t resist the urge to finally taste this baby of a very fine age. Colour: gold. Nose: this is dessert wine, late-harvest pinot gris, sauternes, dried fig, quince, dates, Tokaji aszú… Mouth: beautiful and all over the place, bitter to excess, but also gorgeously resinous, with flashes of brilliance and spells of solitary introspection. Right, the bitterness is extremely tricky to manage on the palate. Finish: long, all pine sap and rosemary running rampant. Comments: this is full-on punk rock, the Voidoids or Père Ubu in liquid form. Good luck.
SGP:271 - 84 points.

Glen Garioch over 30 yo 1992/2023 (57.9%, Artist #13 by LMDW, hogshead, cask #3068, 227 bottles)

Glen Garioch over 30 yo 1992/2023 (57.9%, Artist #13 by LMDW, hogshead, cask #3068, 227 bottles) Four stars
We’re terribly behind on our Glen Gariochs! Colour: deep gold. Nose: cedarwood, eucalyptus, camphor, dried figs, ashes… With water: nothing further develops, everything was already said. Mouth (neat): spiced jams, peppered dried fruits, green tannins, cloves, green pepper… With water: herbal and spicy. Finish: long, with cumin and heaps of green pepper. Comments: an old malt that fully embraces its wood and herbal infusions; not the easiest, but absolutely full of charm.
SGP:361 - 86 points.

Let’s look for something simpler and more straightforward to finish with…

Glen Garioch 12 yo 2011/2024 (54.5%, James Eadie, UK exclusive, 1st fill oloroso finish, cask #374455, 175 bottles)

Glen Garioch 12 yo 2011/2024 (54.5%, James Eadie, UK exclusive, 1st fill oloroso finish, cask #374455, 175 bottles) Four stars
A six-month finishing. Fair play. Colour: deep gold. Nose: of course, walnut cake, cigar box, chicken broth and marmalade. Of course. With water: potting soil and clove-studded orange. Mouth (neat): honeys, malt extracts, bitter orange, old walnuts and black pepper. With water: gingerbread, chestnut honey and more black pepper. Finish: long, jammy, full of gingerbread and pumpernickel, with plenty of black pepper. Comments: these folks always do a very fine job, even when it might be just a touch too much, as it may be here.
SGP:461 - 85 points.

More tasting notesCheck the index of all Glen Garioch we've tasted

 

November 19, 2025


Whiskyfun

Benromach time at WF

We love Benromach in its natural state, even in sherry casks, but we do struggle a bit more when there's a clash of personalities that can happen when the cask influence is very strong. A mild-mannered malt can take it all and soak it up, but a more textured malt, like Springbank or indeed Benromach, finds it harder to cope in these situations, a bit like an MMA bout. Still, it's all a matter of personal experience. Let’s see what we’ve got on the table…


The Distillery in 1958 (Benromach)

 

 

Benromach 10 yo 2014/2025 (58.3%, OB for LMDW Itinéraires, 1st fill sherry hogshead, cask #893, 304 bottles)

Benromach 10 yo 2014/2025 (58.3%, OB for LMDW Itinéraires, 1st fill sherry hogshead, cask #893, 304 bottles) Five stars
Colour: gold. Nose: how amusing! We’re straight into cassis-infused mustard (possibly), old balsamic vinegar, brake pads, gherkins, walnut wine, fireplace soot, conifer ash, and an ancient briar pipe... It’s an utter riot, and we’re all in. With water: doesn’t shift an inch, utterly unshakeable (pleonasm alert, S.) Mouth (neat): fat, thick, verging on brutal, with salt, vinegar and pepper galore, plus some sort of citrusy mustard doing the can-can. Honestly, this is fairly bonkers. With water: barely calms down, instead showing off more leather, pipe tobacco and rather bitter marmalade. Finish: very, very long, taking us somewhere between a bold fino and a rather robust vin jaune. Loads of ashes in the aftertaste. Comments: turns out we’re quite partial to this style, perhaps not terribly diplomatic (to put it mildly) but fantastically punchy. Off to a flying start. It’s an 89 but I feel like giving it 90. I do as I please, it’s my blog.
SGP:473 - 90 points.

Glen Mosset 8 yo 2016/2025 (59.5%, Watashi Whisky, refill sherry octave, cask #120000348B)

Glen Mosset 8 yo 2016/2025 (59.5%, Watashi Whisky, refill sherry octave, cask #120000348B) Four stars and a half
Glen Mosset is a trade name for Benromach. Colour: straw. Nose: a much gentler, younger, fruitier variation here, not far from a medley of excellent eaux-de-vie—plums, pears—but with an oily undercurrent, all sunflower oil and slick texture. The benromachness creeps in gradually, bringing more ashes, pepper, and a touch of acidity, though it stays friendlier than the 2014. With water: back come the rubber, oil and carbon notes. Clearly Benromach. Mouth (neat): absolutely spot-on, taut, fatty, earthy, mustardy, crammed with green walnuts and preserved lemons. A few drops of rowanberry eau-de-vie in there too, so we might have to try this Glen Mosset over pistachio ice cream, as is traditional in Alsace (rowan EDV + pistachio ice cream). With water: lovely bitters, earthy and deep. Finish: long, bringing in tart little apples alongside more walnuts and a good dollop of mustard. Comments: not quite a vin jaune, strictly speaking, but rather a Jura chardonnay that’s caught a dose of ‘le goût de jaune’. Cracking young creature.
SGP:462 - 88 points.

Benromach 16 yo 2009 ‘Super Tuscan Wine Cask’ (58.2%, OB, first fill super Tuscan wine, cask #582, 272 bottles)

Benromach 16 yo 2009 ‘Super Tuscan Wine Cask’ (58.2%, OB, first fill super Tuscan wine, cask #582, 272 bottles) Three stars and a half
I’ve always found the term ‘Super Tuscan’ rather demeaning for the wines of Tuscany, I’ve never quite understood how making a Bordeaux-style blend elsewhere qualifies something as ‘Super’. Quite the opposite really, Sangiovese all the way, for crying out loud! Colour: gold. Nose: honestly, not bad, no stewed prunes or squashed raspberries, thank goodness, but I do find it suffers from a bit of a clash after the two younger ones, especially the 10-year-old. Still, there is fruit in there. Benromach is already a rather multifaceted malt, and adding red fruit on top feels slightly unnecessary. With water: still behaves, but it’s lagging behind the young ones, feels a bit like a Fiat Multipla trying to keep up (ha). Mouth (neat): winesky territory more so than on the nose. Strawberry with cracked pepper can be charming, but only within bounds. Strawberry jam with black pepper becomes a bit much. With water: we probably ought to have tasted this one first. That said, there are some rather pretty earthy notes, with hints of tobacco and roots. Finish: long and more classical, the distillate seems to have clawed its way out from under the wine. Salinity, pepper, earth, ashes… Comments: extremely difficult to score, at least for me.
SGP:662 - 83 points.

Benromach 22 yo 2003/2025 (55%, OB for Wu Dram Clan, first fill bourbon and sherry, 1076 bottles)

Benromach 22 yo 2003/2025 (55%, OB for Wu Dram Clan, first fill bourbon and sherry, 1076 bottles) Five stars
Colour: full gold. Nose: a more serene version, softer, more civilised, with bourbon cask influence neatly dialled in—banana, vanilla, orange, coconut—yet still delivering all the phenolic and earthy complexity we love in Benromach. Lovely wafts of fresh rubber and putty, plus waxes, fresh paint, linseed oil and fresh walnut... With water: charming notes of old magazines, dusty books and crisp cardboard. Mouth (neat): beautifully fruity, all lime and tangerine at first, then straight into green tea, green pepper, and a few fresh mushroom notes, which we always adore. The whole profile is highly distinctive, not a flavour combo you run into every day, especially once that olive oil note joins in just as swiftly. With water: careful now, don’t overdo it, it can nosedive. Guilty as charged. Finish: long, with soot, tea, ashes returning, where had they gone? Comments: this is exactly why we love Benromach, bang on that HCBBS axis (Highland Park, Clynelish, Benromach, Ben Nevis, Springbank).
SGP:652 - 91 points.

Benromach 22 yo 2002/2025 (57.2%, OB for LMDW Itinéraires, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #970, 157 bottles)

Benromach 22 yo 2002/2025 (57.2%, OB for LMDW Itinéraires, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #970, 157 bottles) Five stars
The only real issue here is that you already know exactly what’s going to happen. Colour: gold. Nose: gold. Mouth: gold. Finish: gold. Alright then, let’s behave... Colour: gold. Nose: utterly sublime, all damp earth, soot, wild roots, fresh almonds and hazelnuts, linseed oil, bergamot, carrots... A scene of great natural beauty. With water: close your eyes and you’d swear there’s a world-class ceviche sitting in front of you. Mouth (neat): peat so sharp it cuts like a sushi chef’s blade, richer citrus fruits, majestic oils and an array of green spices worth bowing to. Also green oranges (sparingly though, they’ll take the enamel off your teeth). With water: anecdotal at best. A bit of honey and guava and papaya liqueurs. Do those even exist? Honestly, I know the ABV is high, but water feels optional here. Finish: not the longest, but once again softens into something more tertiary, more ‘fine old white Burgundy’. A few medicinal touches à la Lp. showing up in the aftertaste. Comments: right, this is superb. Down to the cellar it goes, for future generations.
SGP:563 - 92 points.

More tasting notesCheck the index of all Benromach we've tasted

 

November 18, 2025


Whiskyfun

A lovely little bag of Ardbeg

It was time we tasted a few Ardbegs again, whether in their official form, in their independent one, or under the gentle name of Kildalton. We’re going to try doing it randomly, stochastically, in a sort of quasi-Brownian motion that might eventually settle into a more or less logical order, as it often does. But enough silly waffle already, we’ll see what happens…

We would have so loved for it to be full
(At the Distillery, WF Archive, 2006)
 

 

 

Ardbeg 15 yo ‘Anthology The Beithir’s Tale’ (46%, OB, 2025)

Ardbeg 15 yo ‘Anthology The Beithir’s Tale’ (46%, OB, 2025) Four stars and a half
Matured in designer charred bourbon cask. I also reckon the general public ought to pay more attention to the silly names many distilleries now feel compelled to slap onto their age statements. Such as this ‘Beithir’s Tale’, a tale of a dragon that supposedly came to Ardbeg and devoured three rare casks. Are we quite sure it wasn’t rather a club of Scandinavian whisky nerds? (love you all). Colour: straw. Nose: ashtray smoke and vanilla-and-banana cream, then a syrupy cough medicine brimming with menthol and eucalyptus. It’s clean, unfussy, very pleasant, all the more so as a little fino-style accent rises up behind that, most charming. Mouth: the mint arrives right away, followed by spruce bud and conifer ash that dries the palate a touch, though not in an unpleasant manner. A few sultanas steeped in orange liqueur follow and lend it all a bit of decorum. Finish: long, saltier now, with also some blackcurrant paste and even other fruits, rather unexpected yet very well handled. Comments: I believe this little dragon might even appeal to peatophobes. I like it a lot, but it absolutely needs to breathe.
SGP:556 - 88 points.

Why not another 15-year-old at 46%, but an older one…

Ardbeg 15 yo 1973 (46%, Moncreiffe, Meregalli Import, +/-1988)

Ardbeg 15 yo 1973 (46%, Moncreiffe, Meregalli Import, +/-1988) Five stars
I was quite certain I’d already tasted this well-known Italian baby before, but apparently not. There was also a 14/1973. Colour: gold. Nose: there’s a thousand times more fresh tar, fresh mastic, modelling clay, plus bitter herbs and seaweed, some leather, mutton suet, and charcoal… In short, this is far less ‘commercial’ than the very good Anthology, though I’m not entirely sure that’s the right word. Most importantly, there are virtually no fruits, if any at all. Mouth: very dry, salty, like seawater run through a smoker, then bolstered with paraffin oil, smoked fish and even oyster. The tar emerges next and gains more and more ground. Finish: not all that long, but very waxy and resinous, and naturally saline. That ‘ashtray’ side coming back on the aftertaste. Comments: it brings to mind those old official 10s from the Allied era, but that’s hardly surprising. Very slight OBE, slightly unfavourable, but it’s still very magical stuff, even if it does fade a wee bit too quickly in your glass.
SGP:367 - 90 points.

Ardbeg 15 yo 2009/2025 (54.5%, Brave New Spirits, Cask Masters for Hong Kong Festival, 1st fill Rivesaltes barrique, cask #26001, 308 bottles)

Ardbeg 15 yo 2009/2025 (54.5%, Brave New Spirits, Cask Masters for Hong Kong Festival, 1st fill Rivesaltes barrique, cask #26001, 308 bottles) Four stars and a half
Rivesaltes might seem like an odd choice for maturation, but in truth it’s not far from certain sherries, notably PX, even if the grape varieties aren’t the same and there are several styles of Rivesaltes (tuilé, ambré, grenat, rosé…) Colour: gold. Nose: I believe one never quite knows what to expect when peat meets sweet wine, and here it opens with gherkins and even a dab of horseradish and mustard, then veers off toward seaweed and samphire before landing back on Islay with ashes and tar. It’s genuinely entertaining and even thrilling to follow, if you’re willing to spare it a little of your precious time. With water: rounder, more on dried raisins, which makes sense. Mouth (neat): this time it’s the sweetness of the wine that speaks first, with muscaty overtones and touches of grenache and candied cherry… The distillate, for its part, brings in the smoke, brine and ashes. With water: the tables turn, Ardbeg reasserts itself, with pepper, brine and tar. Good fun. Finish: long and halfway between both components, brought together by pepper. Comments: a little Ardbeg/Rivesaltes that plays like a two-piece puzzle. It’s daft and it’s very good.
SGP:566 - 88 points.

Ardbeg 15 yo 2009/2024 (50.8%, PK Maltroom, ‘Four Seasons’, sherry butt, 82 bottles)

Ardbeg 15 yo 2009/2024 (50.8%, PK Maltroom, ‘Four Seasons’, sherry butt, 82 bottles) Five stars
A bottling for Vietnam, more precisely for what is surely a very high-end bar (we’re quite sure of it) in Ho Chi Minh City. The label is adorable – and yes, of course the packaging is part of the whisky. Colour: white wine. Nose: this baby displays as much sherry as a concrete breeze block. That’s a rather silly way, I’ll admit, of saying the sherry itself is entirely absent, and we’re certainly not complaining. In short, it’s an Ardbeg of razor-like precision, extremely fresh, far more mineral and chalkier than the previous ones, and offering just the right touches of oysters, lemon, green apples and seaweed. Magnificent. Water is unnecessary, I’d say. Mouth: let’s just say it, this one reminds us of the ‘Introducing Ten Years Old’, who remembers? Superb tension, precision, freshness and balance of flavour. Finish: a blade. Comments: grand cru whisky, thanks to its purity. Nothing to add. A pity there are (were?) only 82 bottles, but these batches are worth hunting down. You can trust the colour, the paler, the better. There, we’ll talk about this one again in twenty years.
SGP:467 - 92 points.

Ardbeg 16 yo 2008/2024 (58.3%, Casky Hong Kong & The Antelope Macau, Ferry Ticket Return Way, refill sherry cask, cask #80060213, 201 bottles)

Ardbeg 16 yo 2008/2024 (58.3%, Casky Hong Kong & The Antelope Macau, Ferry Ticket Return Way, refill sherry cask, cask #80060213, 201 bottles) Five stars
These folks are a bit of a nuisance, they almost always release rather dazzling bottlings; I would think they ought to pause their spirits-related activities for a while and take up macramé, batik or pottery. They can always come back later. Colour: rich gold. Nose: yet another style again, taut for sure, but also heavily marked by tar, natural rubber, fresh putty, and even oil paint. In the background, a beach bonfire, dried seaweed and assorted shells. With water: the sherry tries to emerge, with some leafy notes, walnut skins and a dab of mustard, but the distillate calls the shots. And quite right too. Mouth (neat): immediate impact, lemon, bitter orange, pepper, ashes. With water: magnificent, we’re edging towards the spirit of the 72–76 vintages, it’s delightfully tarry and bursting with gherkins. Finish: long, on bitter Italian drinks of very deep red hue. Redder than red, if you see what I mean. Comments: just a tiny bit less precise than the previous one, but I’m splitting hairs now. Magnificent Ardbeg.
SGP:467 - 91 points.

Since it’s just us, I always find myself wondering, as I savour these little independent gems, why the official brands so rarely release whiskies in this kind of very ‘natural’ style, rather than endlessly pursuing those improbable finishes that could bring a tear to even the cheeriest of bricks. If you’ve got the answer, I’m all ears… Right then, let’s carry on…

Ardbeg 25 yo 2000/2025 ‘Something in the Water’ (55.4%, Artist #15 by La Maison du Whisky, oloroso sherry butt, cask #1100000016, 224 bottles)

Ardbeg 25 yo 2000/2025 ‘Something in the Water’ (55.4%, Artist #15 by La Maison du Whisky, oloroso sherry butt, cask #1100000016, 224 bottles) Five stars
As the main label is purely functional, I’ll rather show you the artwork that comes with it. One imagines, without having checked, that the name of this series refers to the famous Deep Purple song, written after Frank Zappa set the stage ablaze in Montreux. Well, that’s not quite what happened, but never mind, we’re here for the whisky… Colour: bronze brown. Nose: you can tell straight away that water will be essential to unlock all the aromatic molecules queueing at the gate, like in the Paris metro at rush hour. Figs? Tobacco? Rust remover?... With water: have you ever stuck your head into a barrel of Brent crude, emptied of course? And the oloroso is splendid, in the Navazos style. Mouth (neat): hefty cask impact, but done in that American craft style, all-out excess, which ends up creating an odd sense of coherence and even softness. Not sure that makes sense, but there we are. Rubber, peat, smoked fish, lamp oil, myriads of spices, strange coatings (Rubson?), dark chocolate… With water: no time to linger, is there? Let’s just say brined Italian citrus fruits come crashing in. Finish: very long, with a feeling of having swallowed a bottle of thyme essential oil and several other things besides. Comments: the challenge here is adding just enough water—but not too much—because it might ‘snap’ sharply despite its power. The exact opposite of the sublimely graceful PK Vietnamese one, and yet, both are magical. For as the great and charming philosopher Paula Abdul once said, ‘Opposites Attract’.
SGP:567 - 93 points.

Let’s journey back into the past…

Ardbeg 21 yo 1976/1997 (49.2%, Adelphi, cask #453, 180 bottles)

Ardbeg 21 yo 1976/1997 (49.2%, Adelphi, cask #453, 180 bottles) Five stars
A little Ardbeg from the days when the very distinguished house of Adelphi had once and for all decided to place absolute faith in the supernaturally sharp eyesight of all whisky enthusiasts. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s the compactness and expressiveness that strike at once, the smoke, the ashes, the oils, the tars, but also—almost for the first time today—the fruits. Truth be told, there are those typical notes from this vintage that fuse candied citrus with resins, hash included, I mean that quite seriously. Which might explain the typographic choices of the era, but let’s not digress, much water has passed under the bridge since 1997. With water: a touch of leather. Mouth (neat): it’s too good, let’s just stop there. Sublime candied citrus, resins, saline touches, shellfish, liquorice, all in perfect harmony. The peat is but one component, it’s by no means the star. With water: unnecessary. Finish: long, fresh, sublime, resinous and lemony. Comments: the similarity in complexity between this 1976 and the 2000 from LMDW is splendid news (for the 2000), in these days when one tends to believe everything is in decline anyway. Perhaps entropy doesn’t apply to malt whisky. Or at least, not to Ardbeg, after all.
SGP:567 - 93 points.

Well then, to celebrate this discovery, perhaps we could have a few more Kildaltons? Maybe with a little thought for the priest said to be buried beneath the famous cross, reportedly slain in an extremely brutal fashion by barbaric Vikings.

Red Bag 4 yo 2020/2025 (61.2%, Dramfool’s Middle Cut, red wine barrique, cask #54, 282 bottles)

Red Bag 4 yo 2020/2025 (61.2%, Dramfool’s Middle Cut, red wine barrique, cask #54, 282 bottles) Four stars
Here we go kicking and screaming, and only because it’s Dramfool, who usually do superb things. But honestly, Ardbeg and red wine? What’s next, mustard in our coffee? Colour: first bit of good news, the whisky isn’t pink like a pigeon’s eye. Nose: I don’t know, smoked blackcurrant with fir wood, and a hint of ham at the same time? With water: not bad at all, obviously smoky, robust of course, and above all with wafts of tomato bush, which only this sort of combination could possibly create. I mean, in the whisky world. Mouth (neat): we’ve stepped into another dimension, that of a wild, extreme drink, burning, salty and acidic. With water: ah, that’s better, it’s original, creative, full of buds and foliage (cherry tree, tomato) and it doesn’t stray too far into grenadine, raspberry or cassis. Finish: rather long, with touches of cardamom. Comments: okay, with a name like ‘Red Bag’, we all knew which whisky this was, but could we perhaps get more details about the red wine that did at least a third of the work? Italian? Spanish? The worst part is, you end up liking this improbable ‘thing’.
SGP:567 - 85 points.

Right, I was about to say they’re mad over at Dramfool, but you’ll no doubt reply that it’s in the name. Fair game.

Kildalton 14 yo 2009/2024 (52.1%, Casky, Hong Kong Neon Light City, hogshead)

Kildalton 14 yo 2009/2024 (52.1%, Casky, Hong Kong Neon Light City, hogshead) Four stars and a half
Colour: gold. Nose: a far more austere version, well-mannered, bordering on a Swiss girls’ boarding school (right?) and close to seawater and ashes. With water: a few puffs of limoncello served as granita. Mouth (neat): uncomplicated, simple, not very expressive, and yet I love it, as it stays so close to its markers—ash, olives, lemon, smoked fish, seaweed, oysters, pepper, Tabasco… With water: and brine, more olives, capers, anchovies… Finish: similar, saline, tapenade, anchoyade… Comments: one of the most maritime today, in all its simplicity.
SGP:466 - 89 points.

Kildalton 15 yo 2009/2024 (53.4%, Harmony Macau, Four Towers Series II, refill hogshead, cask #1233, 163 bottles)

Kildalton 15 yo 2009/2024 (53.4%, Harmony Macau, Four Towers Series II, refill hogshead, cask #1233, 163 bottles) Four stars and a half
We are indeed spending quite a bit of time around the Great Bay today, but we’re certainly not complaining. Colour: white wine. Nose: back to that pared-down style, meticulous, simple in the almost abstract sense, on chalk, lemon, apple and ashes. With water: some oils, grape seed, sunflower, paraffin… Mouth (neat): blast, this is really very good. Full of ashes, fruit and vegetable peelings, lemon zest, oysterleaf and green pepper. It sort of splits you clean in two, but you let it—aren’t all malt lovers just a bit masochistic anyway? With water: in come baked fruits, quince, pear, apple… This part is surprising, it almost clashes a little, but the whole remains spot on. Finish: long, slightly saltier, while staying rather gentle. Lovely briny notes that linger for ages, at least 120 caudalies… I promise. Comments: a magnificent baby, high-level stuff, with just a touch less of that sharp edge we so love, though that’s entirely subjective. In short, it’s excellent.
SGP:456 - 89 points.

Kildalton 22 yo 2003/2025 (53.6%, Whiskyland, Decadent Drinks, 2nd fill barrel, 247 bottles)

Kildalton 22 yo 2003/2025 (53.6%, Whiskyland, Decadent Drinks, 2nd fill barrel, 247 bottles) Five stars
There, the Kildalton Cross on the label. The two pagodas don’t leave much room for doubt either, though why on earth they’re floating in the middle of the Irish Sea is anyone’s guess. Or is it what might this place look like by the end of the century, affected by climate change? I’ll add that since the Lider Maximo of DD began his career as a tour guide at Ardbeg, we ought to trust his ability to pick a decent cask from said distillery. Let’s see… Colour: gold. Nose: a return to that clean, precise line, almost minimalist, on frying oil used once for Belgian shrimp croquettes (yep), plus a handful of little shells, cockles, whelks… All of this, really, just completes a platter of lightly smoked oysters, Korean style. It’s all very fine and elegant, moderately powerful, even if that distinctly Ardbeggian bicycle inner tube note shows up next. With water: fishermen’s nets left to dry on the beach and a bit of driftwood. Mouth (neat): much more rustic and punchier, with gunpowder and green pepper. Also some bitter orange, full of promise… With water: still very expressive, acidic, green, bitter, salty, fairly challenging. Finish: same profile, with great length. Comments: it’s the acidic side I find most striking here, but acidity is life, is it not.
SGP:366 - 90 points.

Kildalton 21 yo 2003/2025 (51.3%, The Whisky Jury, second fill bourbon, cask #11124, 276 bottles)

Kildalton 21 yo 2003/2025 (51.3%, The Whisky Jury, second fill bourbon, cask #11124, 276 bottles) Four stars and a half
A ‘blended malt’ from a single cask is always amusing, unless the blending took place at birth, or before a marriage-maturation period of three years or more. Sure, sure… Colour: full gold. Nose: very much on smoke and ash, though there’s also a jammy side not often found in a second fill, perhaps a mix of marmalade and mirabelle jam… But it’s lovely. With water: more on tar, soot, and a fine bitterness, grilled aubergine-style. Mouth (neat): same slightly sweet or caramelised impression, but of course the distillate rumbles underneath and fires off loads of pepper and salted ashes. With water: very fine balance of citrus, yellow fruits, oysters, peppers, ashes and tutti quanti. Finish: long, youthful, slightly on salted and peppered lemon marmalade. Comments: the perfect counterpart to the Whiskyland; if we had the time, we’d try blending the two.
SGP:566 - 89 points.

By the way, who remembers the official Ardbeg ‘Kildalton’ from 2014? It was only very lightly peated. Certainly good, but not the most magnificent of Ardbegs, in our humble opinion (WF 83). Right then, let’s finish with a grand finale. Or at least, here’s hoping it turns out to be one…

Ardbeg 15 yo (46%, Cadenhead, dumpy, 75cl, +/-1980)

Ardbeg 15 yo (46%, Cadenhead, dumpy, 75cl, +/-1980) Five stars
The main label is entirely similar to that of other ‘black dumpy’ bottles of Ardbeg, but the neck label is a bit of an oddity, as it’s actually from a Springbank 15, most likely one of those used on certain ‘pear shape’ bottles at the time. It’s worth remembering that Springbank/J&A Mitchell had acquired WM Cadenhead in 1972. And they wasted neither glass nor paper, did they. Or perhaps Cadenhead’s neck labels had run out? Or a trainee’s blunder? Or the printer failed to deliver… Colour: straw. Nose: lots of clay and modelling putty at first, then a lovely sweetness sets in, mainly on marzipan, fresh putty and shellfish, with very gentle seaweed and just hints of tar and mild mint. This is an Ardbeg leaning rather towards elegance. Mouth: splendid! As gentle and restrained as the nose was, the palate bursts forth with salinity, grapefruit and sheer coastal peat, you get the impression of swallowing seawater or taking a massive wave full in the face. The rest is extraordinary, with all the usual suspects: gentian, chartreuse, absinthe, limoncello, oysterleaf and a myriad of tiny edible herbs, the whole as precisely tuned as a V12. Finish: long, more medicinal, and feeling more like 50% than 46, with an increasingly oily texture and an aftertaste on the trio of ashes, lemon and seawater. Comments: this is the sort of bottle that helped launch Ardbeg to the forefront for enthusiasts. Also, you’ll no doubt have noticed that we’ve carefully avoided any maltoporn.
SGP:467 - 95 points.

Right then, thirteen Ardbegs is probably enough for today, we’ll save a few for our next session. Above all, we dream of an official release in its natural state, without any improbable boost from hyperactive wood or wine casks, something that could genuinely give the independent bottlers a run for their money. For now, alas! we’re not quite there yet… Even though, of course, there’s the marvellous, very lovable official Ten.

(Muchas gracias, Aaron, Geert, Ratko and friends)

More tasting notesCheck the index of all Ardbeg we've tasted

 

November 17, 2025


Whiskyfun

It’s time to savour Clynelish once again

 

We either don’t have or can no longer find (you never know with cats) this year’s Special Release, but that won’t stop us from enjoying a few Clynelish before Christmas. It’s worth noting that we’ll also have four or five Brora later on that we’ve never tried before! Anyway, today it’s Clynelish, and we’re diving in a bit at random...

 

 

This is not a Blend 2015/2025 (50%, Compass Box, LMDW Itinéraires, single malt, bourbon barrel, 2025)

This is not a Blend 2015/2025 (50%, Compass Box, LMDW Itinéraires, single malt, bourbon barrel, 2025) Five stars
Well, we’ve been well and truly had—and quite happily so—by both Compass Box and that dear old Magritte, since this is clearly a single malt and not a blend! Whether that’s enough to conclude it was indeed a pipe on Magritte’s painting, I’m not entirely sure… Anyway, here’s a vatting of seven casks of Clynelish, finished (can one really say that?) in ex-Bowmore casks for eight weeks. Wait, you’re right, it might well only be a single malt on paper, when in fact it’s more of a blended malt—an in-cask blend, if you will… So, the plot thickens… Colour: white wine. Nose: a young, fresh and fruity Clynelish, full of golden apple and only mildly waxy, marked by seawater and, let’s say it, Bowmore, whose mere droplets are often enough to shift the style of any vatting. With water: more Clynelish, less Bowmore, with some alpine honey. Mouth (neat): it’s a blend, but it’s excellent. I mean it’s clearly a blend, AND it’s excellent. Lemon drops, brine, beeswax, liquorice wood. With water: it’s really very very very very good, just don’t add too much water. Finish: this is not a finish. Comments: excellent. I might have called it Clynemore or Bowenish, but that would’ve felt a bit less ‘Magritte’. Still, not exactly a stratospheric score…
SGP:562 - 90 points.

Clynelish 9 yo 2015/2025 (53.5%, Adelphi, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #51261, 215 bottles)

Clynelish 9 yo 2015/2025 (53.5%, Adelphi, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #51261, 215 bottles) Five stars
One still fondly remembers that Clynelish Adelphi had released for Whiskyfun’s 20th anniversary, complete with a little magnifying glass dangling from the neck so one could actually read the label. Because let’s be honest, Adelphi’s labels are still terribly hard to read—unless you’ve now got one of those new augmented specs like the Ray Ban-Meta or Nexora, which make things considerably easier. Even if, granted, you do look a bit of a muppet with those things on your face. Anyway… Colour: white wine. Nose: brilliant, this is exactly the Compass Box, only without the Bowmore. Glorious waxes, herbs, fruit peels, tangerines, chalk and a few fresh mushrooms. With water: damp earth, wonderful. Mouth (neat): but how good is this! Just perfect, on wax-covered tangerines, pepper and honey. With water: can it get any more perfect than perfect? Possibly, as a touch of lime just rounds it all off. Finish: the ending of a great whisky is always a little sad, isn’t it? Comments: who was it that wrote that noble souls are not made to wait for years to show their worth?
SGP:651 - 91 points.

Blimey, we’re already too far up…

Warning

By the way, be careful — there are quite a few dodgy online shops around at the moment which clone legitimate sites and display heavily slashed prices. Of course, they’re scams, they’ll take your money and never send the bottles. Basically, if it looks too good, it is. Don’t fall for it. Same goes for semi-private offers on Facebook, for example. Some are even taking advantage of the current dip in the market, so extreme deals might seem more believable. Codswallop!

There, we go on…

Clynelish 17 yo 2008/2025 (56.3%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, LMDW Itinéraires, 1st fill bourbon barrel)

Clynelish 17 yo 2008/2025 (56.3%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, LMDW Itinéraires, 1st fill bourbon barrel) Four stars and a half
Colour: white wine. Nose: fresh as a daisy, more on fruit, and I was about to say gentler than the previous ones, very lovely but perhaps a little less distinctly Clynelish. They may have cleaned the legendary receiver (private joke). With water: as often with G&M, it goes very cloudy. We really ought to pay another visit to their filters, which we already marvelled at some twenty years ago… Anyway, apple juice and beeswax. Mouth (neat): oooh this is good, more precise than the nose, more peppery, and oilier at the same time. Green apples cooked with pepper and honey. With water: this is still a gentler Clynelish than most, one that’s settled down and now seems to sit somewhere between the hefty neighbours to the north and south. That’s it, Pulteney and Glenmorangie. Finish: same. Comments: magnificent, just a bit… gentler.
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Candlekitty 15 yo 2010/2025 (55%, Decadent Drams, Decadent Drinks, refill barrel, 254 bottles)

Candlekitty 15 yo 2010/2025 (55%, Decadent Drams, Decadent Drinks, refill barrel, 254 bottles) Five stars
We’re very fond of the name ‘Candlekitty’, even if at WF Towers it mostly makes the cats laugh… Colour: white wine. Nose: magnificent and rather different, in that it starts off on celeriac and turnips before veering into more familiar waxy and honeyed territories. And some overripe apple. It’s already quite intriguing at this point… With water: crisp, clean, perfect, wax, apple, barley, chalk. Mouth (neat): superlative, no need to labour the point, this mix of citrus, waxes and earth is stunning. And I swear there are echoes of ‘Old’ Clynelish. Yes, we did recently pour ourselves a lovely dram of the old 12-year-old, so we’ve got a solid comparison. With water: is Clynelish the greatest malt in Scotland? What if the distillery weren’t such an eyesore? What if it looked more like Strathisla? Or even Brora? Finish: long, flawlessly waxy and slightly more lemony. Comments: perhaps we’re suffering from that condition said to be quite treatable—Clynelitis morbifuga. Apparently best managed with regular doses of magnums, according to the faculty.
SGP:551 - 91 points.

Clynelish 1993/2022 (49.6%, Càrn Mòr, for The Whisky Exchange, Celebration of the Cask, bourbon barrel, cask #11080, 125 bottles)

Clynelish 1993/2022 (49.6%, Càrn Mòr, for The Whisky Exchange, Celebration of the Cask, bourbon barrel, cask #11080, 125 bottles) Five stars
One of the bottles we commented on during a tasting (they call it a masterclass, but I rather dislike the term) at this year’s Whisky Show in London. A superb event, with extraordinary folk and an audience of truly intergalactic calibre. Colour: white wine. Nose: pure beeswax, overripe apples, mandarin skins and damp earth. Slightly shy during the ‘big tasting’ in front of a crowd, but now, in the calm of Château WF, it’s speaking with clarity and elegance. Mouth (neat): but this is lovely. Let’s say bergamots in honey, wrapped in candle wax and a bit of pale earth, like albariza or chalky Champagne soil. Some lightly peppered apples enter a little later. Finish: long, with lemons arriving here as well. Comments: we’re very close to Candlekitty territory, though that one was a killer. Like all cats, you’ll say.
SGP:551 - 90 points.

Speaking of a knockout…

Clynelish 9 yo 2012/2021 (60.4%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, 1st fill bourbon, #26.184, ‘Lychee Scented Candles’, 231 bottles)

Clynelish 9 yo 2012/2021 (60.4%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, 1st fill bourbon, #26.184, ‘Lychee Scented Candles’, 231 bottles) Three stars and a half
Of course, the name is a bit alarming—I mean, lychees? But it’s Clynelish… You’ll tell me there’s another young one called ‘Comfort and Joy’, which sounds a tad less menacing… Colour: white wine. Nose: well done, now we’re chasing those famous lychees, and not finding them. That said, there are faint touches of Mei-Kwei-Lu in there, but they’re barely perceptible. In any case, the strength is blocking everything a bit. Only one way to fix that… With water: not so sure, a bit of furniture polish does come through, as well as some dried fruits, but the Clynelishness remains rather elusive in the end. Mouth (neat): hot but fruity, with loads of pepper. As for the lychees, perhaps another time—it’s far too powerful. With water: apple juice with honey, young Calvados, a hint of lemon liqueur. Finish: not all that long in the end. Comments: I feel this is a Clynelish of the sort we used to see quite a bit twenty years ago, not all of which had their full credentials, so to speak. Still, a very good young malt, lychee or no lychee.
SGP:541 - 83 points.

Clynelish 24 yo 1972/1997 (61.3%, OB, United Distillers Rare Malts)

Clynelish 24 yo 1972/1997 (61.3%, OB, United Distillers Rare Malts) Five stars
Of course we’ve tasted this baby many times before, but the note published on WF is pitiful—cramped, imprecise and frankly humiliating. That was back in 2005. Only the score still feels sound: 91/100, so it’s high time we revisited it, twenty years on and with fresh perspective. Twenty years, my friend! United Distillers, naturally, were Diageo’s predecessors. And this bottle has had some time to age as well, though at 61%, that’s bound to be slow and minimal. Colour: gold. Nose: right, a beehive, beeswax, pollen and honeys of all kinds. With water: little change, really, but it’s so elegant and texturally perfect on the nose that adding much more would almost feel vulgar. Mouth (neat): all I can say is that this is magical—sharp, nervy, unsettling, demanding, and utterly sublime. With water: wax, quince jelly, forest honey. Finish: long and on similar notes. Comments: let’s speak plainly since we’re among friends—these bottles gained massive reputation (including at WF) because, at the time of their release, they were among the few that captured the distillery characters of Diageo and its forerunners with such precision. Think of Benromach or Bladnoch, for example. Since then, the landscape has changed, there’s been a flood of very high-level indie bottlings, and so these Rare Malts—unless it’s for long-closed distilleries—may have become ever so slightly less essential. But this one, for instance, remains magical. There’s even a drop of lychee liqueur in there. Yes, really.
SGP:651 - 92 points.

Clynelish 28 yo 1996/2025 (49.9%, Casky Hong Kong and Kanpaikai, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #11444, 171 bottles)

Clynelish 28 yo 1996/2025 (49.9%, Casky Hong Kong and Kanpaikai, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #11444, 171 bottles) Five stars
Colour: straw. Nose: acacia honey strikes first, and while it’s among the gentlest of honeys, it’s quickly joined by apple juice, farmhouse cider, hay after a summer rain, quince jelly from grandma’s cupboard, and little medicinal salves… Mouth: the connection with the Rare Malts is so clear, it’s practically the same whisky two decades on. It’s like listening to Joni Mitchell’s re-recordings—timeless, iconic, no matter the age. Finish: little lemons quickly take command. Comments: apologies, that was a swift one, but it really is a marvellous Clynelish. And-I-love-those-little-gherkin-notes. A great spirit, across all categories.
SGP:561 - 91 points.

It’s no doubt more than time for one last one...

Clynelish 21 yo 1992/2014 (51.6%, Cadenhead, Small Batch, bourbon hogsheads, 592 bottles)

Clynelish 21 yo 1992/2014 (51.6%, Cadenhead, Small Batch, bourbon hogsheads, 592 bottles) Four stars
We’re happy to report that these were still ‘matured in oak’. Always room for a harmless chuckle. Or so we hope—Campbeltown being, after all, a world of its own, with its own sensitivities… Colour: straw. Nose: clear line wax, overripe apples, multifloral pollen and sweet oriental bread, soft and just slightly sugary. With water: on very overripe apple, powdered cinnamon and acacia honey. Mouth (neat): that trademark honeyed softness, very much on overripe apple as with these well-known batches. Perhaps not Nobel-worthy, nor even double-gold-in-San-Francisco material, but still absolutely excellent. Lovely citrus too. Finish: just slightly ashy, faintly smoky, and mostly buried under five kilos of pollen. Coffee touches. Comments: excellent, just a bit less precise than others, as if the reduction had been done with a slightly rough hand.
SGP:561 - 86 points.

Nine Clynelish — I think that’s enough. Clynelish, we’ll see you again next year, okay? We’ll compare your 2025 SR with the likely 2026 one in October or November 2026, okay? I almost forgot; beyond the people running it, a distillery is of course a person in its own right.

(Merci to Grégoire and Morten)

More tasting notesCheck the index of all Clynelish we've tasted

 

November 16, 2025


Whiskyfun

  A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

 

A few drops of Champagne

I am, of course, referring to Grande and Petite Champagne, in the Cognac region. Or Fine Champagne, which is a fine like all Cognacs (don't ask). The French word champagne comes from the Latin Campania, meaning ‘open country’ or ‘plain’. Many places in France were named this way, including, of course, the region famed for its bubbly – but also two parts of the Cognac-producing area. And many others besides. So, let’s begin with our customary little apéritif...

 

 

Marnier-Lapostolle V.S.O.P. (40%, OB, Fine Champagne, 1970s)

Marnier-Lapostolle V.S.O.P. (40%, OB, Fine Champagne, 1970s) Two stars
An old cognac from the makers of Grand Marnier, now in the hands of Campari. No idea what this might be worth in terms of quality, let’s have a look… Colour: deep gold. Nose: what’s terrifying, really, is the way our brain operates, as I simply can’t help detecting notes of Grand Marnier at first, but it’s a fairly elegant cognac that soon emerges, with vine peach and plum, then a handful of golden sultanas and some charmingly honeyed touches. Lovely bottle ageing. Mouth: loads of raisins and a rather exaggerated sweetness that borders on old sweet wines, even Pineau des Charentes. It’s genuinely good, but we’re drifting away from the realm of ‘proper’ cognac. Finish: a little short, a little too jammy. Comments: this was a good product, though perhaps owing to extended time in bottle, the liqueur-like side appears to have taken over in the end.
SGP:630 - 70 points.

Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Très Vieille Fine Champagne L.54Y’ (46.6%, OB, Confluences, 566 bottles)

Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Très Vieille Fine Champagne L.54Y’ (46.6%, OB, Confluences, 566 bottles) Five stars
A blend of Grande Champagne (70 + 71) and Petite Champagne 70. Just as a gentle reminder, as part of our noble mission to enlighten the parched masses, Fine Champagne refers to a blend of Petite and Grande Champagne. Colour: deep gold. Nose: exceedingly fresh, bursting with tangerines, linden blossom, honeysuckle, wonderfully ripe melon, Gravenstein apple and a mere droplet of mint honey. Tremendous freshness throughout, you could almost pair this Cognac with fine Indian cuisine, just as a suggestion. Some hints of chen-pi begin to make themselves known thereafter. Mouth: the palate picks up exactly where the nose left off, with all that elegant tension and citrus-led brightness, more floral notes, a whiff of pink pepper (Timut-style) and a touch of melon once more. From Charente, naturally! A fresh and irresistibly charming Cognac, yet underpinned by all the layered complexity its venerable age bestows. Finish: still wonderfully fresh and refined, with a rather splendid acidity that, once again, calls out for a place at the dining table, much like a good wine. Zesty echoes in the aftertaste only confirm as much. Comments: just an idea, perhaps a poularde demi-deuil à la Bocuse, or, and I insist on this, a grand Indian dish. You will have gathered by now that the drinkability index—and by extension, the danger factor—is off the charts.
SGP:741 - 91 points.

JC Saunier ‘Lot 75’ (44%, Authentic Spirits, Grande Champagne, 2025)

JC Saunier ‘Lot 75’ (44%, Authentic Spirits, Grande Champagne, 2025) Five stars
This is 100% ugni blanc from Domaine de Sabourat, 29 hectares in the Segonzac area. Colour: amber. Nose: very lovely notes of aniseed that show up straight away, followed by liquorice, then some meadow honey, dried figs, and a few zestier touches of small citrus fruits. It wraps up on gingerbread and a packet of Camel cigarettes—a descriptor we still use freely, as I believe it hasn’t been banned just yet. Mouth: we’re fairly close in style to the previous one, though this one shows a little more toastiness and char, and that tobacco note returns as well. A touch more pepper too, and some Corinthian raisins, which lead us into slightly more ‘digestif’ territory. Hints of pencil shavings, cedarwood… Finish: long, once again with a lovely acidic brightness from the citrus, but also a square of dark chocolate that settles firmly on the aftertaste. Comments: magnificent. Go on then, how about this with a rich chocolate dessert?
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Fine Champagne ‘Hors d’Âge’ (47.8%, Decadent Drams, Decadent Drinks, 116 bottles, 2025)

Fine Champagne ‘Hors d’Âge’ (47.8%, Decadent Drams, Decadent Drinks, 116 bottles, 2025) Five stars
An important message to our dear friends abroad who select and bottle Cognac: the word ‘âge’, as in ‘hors d’âge’, takes a circumflex on the ‘a’, which, according to typographic rules, also applies to capital letters, so it’s ‘Hors d’Âge’ and not ‘Hors d’Age’. Apologies for being a proper pedant about these matters. Of course, none of that should detract from the quality of the contents… Colour: deep gold. Nose: zut, we’re clearly back in 90-point territory. This time, the style is a touch more oriental, almost Byzantine, with heaps of orange blossom, figs, dates, and even rose liqueur. Just a drop, mixed in with a touch of liquorice. Mouth: but how good is this! A little simpler than the previous ones, but that’s almost a virtue here, with rosehip tea and those figs still very much leading the charge, nearly evoking one of those premium raki brands you might sip while watching the boats sail up the Bosphorus. Alright, perhaps we’re getting a bit carried away. Finish: long, on peppered fig jam. Comments: here’s another topic for debate—can one even use the word ‘dram’, as in ‘Decadent Drams’, for a spirit that’s not from Scotland? Answers on a postcard, please.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

François Voyer ‘Le Baladeur Lot 79’ (50.4%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2025)

François Voyer ‘Le Baladeur Lot 79’ (50.4%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2025) Five stars
Colour: deep gold. Nose: we’re back to a more classic style, closer to slightly scorched walnut cake, mixed raisins of all kinds, orange marmalade, and heather honey, with a touch of mint and liquorice as well. With water: just two drops bring out a wee camphory and patchouli side, followed by those familiar figs we’ve already mentioned several times today. Mouth (neat): blimey, this is good, more on honeyed citrus, with a simpler profile again—but let me stress, that’s a virtue. Milk chocolate filled with orange marzipan. With water: the profile remains the same, citrus still calling the shots, to our immense delight. Acacia honey. Finish: medium length, more honeyed, rounder. The aftertaste is gently chocolatey and liquoricy. Comments: I’m sorry to report that we’ve not managed to separate this one from the others in terms of score. Excellent.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

It’s worth noting that aside from our little apéritifs, we rarely taste anything but the crème de la crème of Cognac – the true ‘malternatives’. But I promise you, one of these days we’ll go scavenging for entry-level bottles from the big houses and do a tasting of the ‘cheapos’. A bit of a change for us… Or who knows – maybe we’ll be pleasantly surprised?

Delamain & Cie ‘Le Rossignol Lot 62’ (54.4%, Malternative Belgium, Petite Champagne, cask #755, 198 bottles)

Delamain & Cie ‘Le Rossignol Lot 62’ (54.4%, Malternative Belgium, Petite Champagne, cask #755, 198 bottles) Four stars
The house of Delamain enjoys quite a high reputation in France, often seen on the lists of top restaurants. Of course, we’re not all that familiar with the ‘early landed’ expressions that also built the house’s name… elsewhere. Colour: deep gold. Nose: this is honey, gently blended with a little orange juice and almond milk. Very faint whiffs of natural rubber. With water: curiously turns a touch more rustic, a little more herbaceous. Mouth (neat): very classic, balanced yet taut, a little spicier than the others, and again a touch more herbal. For now… With water: there it is, the fruitiness returns, with Turkish delight and other oriental pastries, though never in an extravagant way. Finish: fairly long, still a little austere and herbaceous. Comments: very, very good, though perhaps slightly overshadowed after all those marvellously fruity ones we’ve just enjoyed. Maybe we ought to have tasted it before the superb Voyer ‘79, but how could one have known?
SGP:561 - 87 points.

Bache-Gabrielsen ‘Founder’s Edition Lot 57’ (46.8%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2025)

Bache-Gabrielsen ‘Founder’s Edition Lot 57’ (46.8%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2025) Four stars and a half
This Grande Champagne comes from the ‘Paradis’ cellar of the renowned house of Bache-Gabrielsen. Oh, and 1957—that’s the year of John Coltrane’s Blue Train. And Monk’s Brilliant Corners. And Miles Ahead. And Ben Webster’s Soulville… Colour: amber. Nose: here we are in hyper-classic territory, with praline, overripe apples, very ripe yellow peaches, blackcurrant bud that really commands respect (ahem), almond brittle, and—dare I say it—something reminiscent of old Highland Park from similar vintages (soon on WF). Mouth: this is beautiful, with a little age showing (herbal teas, infusions), but also lovely notes of liquorice wood, peach and apricot skins, walnuts, and a fine touch of tobacco. It’s just important, when tasting this sort of old cognac, to always keep in mind that it’s something ancient and slightly fragile and shouldn’t be pushed about. Nor should we force our grandmothers to dance to Aerosmith or Blue Öyster Cult, should we? You get the idea, I’m sure. Finish: nice length, drifting toward fine aged white wine, like a good Graves blanc or a mature Meursault from the same era. Comments: it’s quite moving to taste these old Cognacs, which have so much to tell us—even if they do speak in hushed tones, and just a little hesitantly.
SGP:561 - 88 points.

A few more – not necessarily from the ‘Champagne’ crus…

Godet 29 yo (43.2%, OB, Borderies, cask #FB2311, 2025)

Godet 29 yo (43.2%, OB, Borderies, cask #FB2311, 2025) Five stars
Some pure ugni blanc from a dry cellar and from old Tronçais oak. This baby was just bottled last month. Colour: golden amber. Nose: a very fine composition of tobacco, leather, and tiny dried raisins, with wafts of violet liquorice in the background—liable to stir all manner of childhood memories—followed by a few very ripe peaches that seem to have just dropped from the tree, a touch of almond oil, and perhaps a hint of pecan, less expressive but very gentle. A lovely nose, very elegant. Mouth: rather lively on the attack, with candied orange, but it quickly shifts to dried figs, dates stuffed with marzipan, and that violet liquorice we mentioned above. The bottling strength is just perfect. Finish: fairly long, a touch saltier, with faint echoes of Spanish ham and a slightly more rustic side that’s utterly charming. Lovely pepper on the aftertaste, which becomes even a notch more rustic. Comments: I love this rather alternative Borderies, almost a little ‘Highlands’ in style, particularly on the palate.
SGP:551 - 90 points.

Right then, let’s have a young one now…

Prunier ‘XO’ (49.1%, Swell de Spirits, On Tour #09, Cognac Festival Bordeaux 2025, Petite Champagne)

Prunier ‘XO’ (49.1%, Swell de Spirits, On Tour #09, Cognac Festival Bordeaux 2025, Petite Champagne) Four stars and a half
These are Cognacs of 14 years at the youngest, distilled on the lees and aged in a damp cellar. Do remember, in French ‘XO’ or ‘extra old’ actually means fairly young. It’s a bit like the opposite of cinema actresses, isn’t it. Colour: gold. Nose: naturally more herbaceous, tauter than the older ones, with hay and citrus zest, plus touches of woodruff, fresh mint, and distinctly lovely wormwood. Also a faint touch of Burgundian marc popping up here and there. Mouth: on the palate it’s not worlds apart from the older ones, so it’s rounder, with more stewed and dried fruits, orange marmalade, ripe peaches, dates, and a bit of liquorice wood. Finish: long, more on the orange marmalade. Marmalade with Cognac—does that exist? We’ll have to ask our British friends. A little agave syrup and pink pepper on the aftertaste. Comments: a perfect Cognac for a fine silver hip flask, made for long countryside strolls. I like this a lot. By the way, happy festival, Bordeaux!
SGP:561 - 88 points.

One last one, a particularly symbolic choice, as we’ve just marked the Armistice of the 1914–1918 war this week…

François Voyer ‘La Gardienne Lot 19.14’ (44.9%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2025)

François Voyer ‘La Gardienne Lot 19.14’ (44.9%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2025) Five stars
Just forty-two bottles drawn from a demijohn into which this very likely 1914 vintage was transferred in the 1990s, after at least seventy-five years in cask. To be honest, the label with the biplanes leaves little doubt about the vintage. Colour: golden amber. Nose: what a fruit bomb! Without meaning to offend our Cognac friends, we’re very much in the realm of a great old fruity malt—Benriach ’76, Clynelish ’72, Lochside ’66, Bowmore ’64, old Littlemill… It’s loaded with tangerines, melons and mangoes, with a discreet and elegant honeyed touch. Seems the demijohn did an excellent job. Mouth: same impression, it’s precise, utterly unforced, with perfect fruitiness in line with the nose. What were we saying again? Tangerines, melons and mangoes... And a few faint hints of prickly pear and some noble, slightly botrytised old sweet wine. I’ll let you pick your preferred label. Finish: rather long, still on those same fruits, with subtle medicinal, camphory, minty and liquoricy touches. Timut pepper makes more of a showing on the aftertaste, with a light oaky glow. Comments: this magnificent Cognac was clearly distilled after the general mobilisation of August 1914, and it’s highly likely that it was made by women. A true splendour.
SGP:741 - 93 points.

How on earth do you follow that?

(Thank you tout le monde!)

More tasting notesCheck the index of all cognacs we've tasted

 

November 15, 2025


Whiskyfun

 

 

 

Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland.

 

 

Remembering
Dick Beach


This week we lost Dick Beach. A great friend to us at Whiskyfun, a great friend to so many people in whisky and beyond, a Dad to Jon Beach, a grandfather, and the kind of person who deeply enriched the lives of the people around him. Dick was a good age and he lived a long, eventful and clearly a fun life, yet it is still shocking and sad to lose him. 
Angus  

 

Dick Beach

 
Dick Beach (Photo Marcel Van Gils)

 

I first met Dick and his son Jon on Islay in 2010. They arranged a tasting of all the Port Ellen annual releases, which were duly opened and enjoyed, fortified by a small loch-full of scallops. I recorded tasting notes for each of the Port Ellens by hand on the back of an A4 envelope (which I believe is somewhere out there in the ether of Drumnadrochit to this day).

 

 

But the lasting memory, and the most meaningful event, of that day was meeting Dick and Jon. It isn’t too often that you click immediately with people in life, but we did, and a profoundly unserious, hearty, fun-filled and life-affirming friendship followed from the dregs of that wonderful party.

       

 

If Jon is the hyperactive, Salmon-coveting, joy-producing engine at the heart of Fiddler’s in Drumnadrochit, then Dick was the steadying and guiding force that brought an old school charm and wry sophistication to that outfit. My impressions of Dick were always that he was a product of a different generation’s experiences and values, but he represented the best of those times and he knew instinctively which side of the serious and un-serious divide in which to place his life’s priorities: he loved his family; he took his business seriously; he knew when to let his hair down and have a damn good time! 

 

 

Dick was indeed old school in many ways, but he was a deeply passionate and thoughtful man. He could become immensely animated about politics, he was one of the people that taught me that others with wildly different views from your own can still come at their life’s perspectives from a position of caring deeply about the world, about society and about others. We often disagreed with boundless stamina, but when I think about it, most of his political views were concerned with the future and about how the world might be better for his grandkids. 

 

 

He was a gentleman, but he was also cheeky, inexhaustibly capable of silliness and a storytelling raconteur. It was only a couple of months ago in Edinburgh that he put us all to shame by staying up until three in the morning, regaling us with stories and fulfilling the role of beating heart of the party. What makes his sudden departure so shocking, is that he seemed to possess some kind of energetic enthusiasm that suggested he would be with us for years. 

 

 

Perhaps the most important thing to say about Dick, is that he was kind. He took interest in people, noticed them, the things they liked or were good at, and he encouraged people and engaged with them. He was forever pressing me to write more: “When are you going to write a bloody book?!” was usually a sentence I’d be on the receiving end of before the first dram was poured whenever we’d meet. 

 

 

He was not a whisky geek in the sense many of us are. He was not obsessive about micro-detail, but he was deeply appreciative, understood quality and exercised quietly impeccable judgement. He liked old style whiskies, but also old-fashioned ones, meaning he enjoyed old Gordon & MacPhail malts bottled at lower, easy to sip bottling strengths. He adored the old-style lusciousness and generous fruitiness of richly sherried Speysiders. Most of all, he held a profound soft spot for old Miltonduff. He was someone you could dram with and the whisky was what it should be: a delicious supporting act for the main show of good conversation and revelry. 

 

 

It was through whisky that, along with a wonderful group of likeminded friends, we shared some of our greatest collective experiences in recent years. Our trip to Brora in 2013 ‘Broracademy’; the Pre-War Whisky Tour in 2014; the Islay Odyssey in 2015; our trip to Jerez in 2017; various Whisky Show Old & Rare get togethers in between; then, finally, our recent weekend in Edinburgh. If you’ve been a regular reader of Whiskyfun over the years, you might be aware of just how many really incredible, often historic bottles were opened on these adventures. One of the constants through it all was Dick Beach, glass in hand, happy as a Salmon at the top of its ladder, to just be there enjoying the company and another hefty measure of something ancient and delicious! 

 

 

There are a lot of fun and cherished memories from these various trips we shared together over the years, but when it comes to Dick, it’s probably his pithy, politically incorrect and entirely accurate summation of the situation we all found ourselves in, while sipping a large dram of something clearly very dark and delicious, he chuckled and said “God, it’s a lovely way to get pissed, isn’t it!”

 

 

It so happens that I have a few centilitres remaining of a special old Miltonduff on my bottle shelf, and also just so happens that, for whatever reason, I never recorded notes for it before. Perhaps the universe is saying something. When my own father passed away, I remember my mind continually circling back to the nagging question: where is he? I’ve felt that same, haunting question in the back of my mind these last few days since Dick passed. I have no idea about the answer, but I know he’ll exist in countless happy memories for many people and for many years. His profession was hospitality after all, and through what he and his son and wider family have created in Fiddler’s, he brought a lot of joy to visitors from all parts of the world. A legacy that lives on in every plate of fish n chips, every cold pint and every delighted traveller that alights there. Here's to Dick, but also to Jon and to their family. 

 

 

 

 

 

Miltonduff 35 yo 1961/1996 (53.4%, Signatory Vintage, #51, 189 bottles)

Miltonduff 35 yo 1961/1996 (53.4%, Signatory Vintage, #51, 189 bottles)
Colour: bright straw. Nose: fresh, waxy and mineral. Classic old style, distillate-driven malt whisky of body, fatness and beautiful weight. There’s also quite a few citrons, a single kumquat and notes of lime curd and white flowers. With water: honey and waxes in comforting abundance, the honey is nicely resinous in a way that recalls cask-aged mead and old, crystallised, dried out honeycomb. Mouth: diet Clynelish in the very best sense! Perfectly waxy, mineral, a tension between petrol and oils, wee notes of bouillon, sheep wool and bone marrow add to this feeling of fatness and texture. I would also say there’s a slight salinity about it too, which enhances this overall feeling of freshness. With water: more honey, more enhanced waxiness and more petrolic and mineral qualities. Mineral salts and mineral oils all muddled up with waxy lemon rind and lemon marmalade. Finish: long, tense, mineral, waxy, full of stones, flowers, putty and hints of herbal teas. Comments: none. Here’s to you Dick! No doubt you’d have preferred this one at 43% and after around two-three decades in some kind of ancient, luscious sherry cask! 
SGP:461 - 91 points.

 

 

 


November 2025 - part 1 <--- November 2025 - part 2 ---> Current entries


 

 
   
 


Best spirits Serge tried those weeks, 90+ points only

Ardbeg 15 yo (46%, Cadenhead, dumpy, 75cl, +/-1980)

Ardbeg 15 yo 1973 (46%, Moncreiffe, Meregalli Import, +/-1988)

Ardbeg 15 yo 2009/2024 (50.8%, PK Maltroom, ‘Four Seasons’, sherry butt, 82 bottles)

Ardbeg 16 yo 2008/2024 (58.3%, Casky Hong Kong & The Antelope Macau, Ferry Ticket Return Way, refill sherry cask, cask #80060213, 201 bottles)

Ardbeg 21 yo 1976/1997 (49.2%, Adelphi, cask #453, 180 bottles)

Ardbeg 25 yo 2000/2025 ‘Something in the Water’ (55.4%, Artist #15 by La Maison du Whisky, oloroso sherry butt, cask #1100000016, 224 bottles)

Kildalton 22 yo 2003/2025 (53.6%, Whiskyland, Decadent Drinks, 2nd fill barrel, 247 bottles)

Benromach 10 yo 2014/2025 (58.3%, OB for LMDW Itinéraires, 1st fill sherry hogshead, cask #893, 304 bottles)

Benromach 22 yo 2003/2025 (55%, OB for Wu Dram Clan, first fill bourbon and sherry, 1076 bottles)

Benromach 22 yo 2002/2025 (57.2%, OB for LMDW Itinéraires, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #970, 157 bottles)

This is not a Blend 2015/2025 (50%, Compass Box, LMDW Itinéraires, single malt, bourbon barrel, 2025)

Clynelish 9 yo 2015/2025 (53.5%, Adelphi, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #51261, 215 bottles)

Clynelish 1993/2022 (49.6%, Càrn Mòr, for The Whisky Exchange, Celebration of the Cask, bourbon barrel, cask #11080, 125 bottles)

Clynelish 24 yo 1972/1997 (61.3%, OB, United Distillers Rare Malts)

Candlekitty 15 yo 2010/2025 (55%, Decadent Drams, Decadent Drinks, refill barrel, 254 bottles)

Clynelish 28 yo 1996/2025 (49.9%, Casky Hong Kong and Kanpaikai, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #11444, 171 bottles)

Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Très Vieille Fine Champagne L.54Y’ (46.6%, OB, Confluences, 566 bottles) 

JC Saunier ‘Lot 75’ (44%, Authentic Spirits, Grande Champagne, 2025)

Fine Champagne ‘Hors d’Âge’ (47.8%, Decadent Drams, Decadent Drinks, 116 bottles, 2025)

Godet 29 yo (43.2%, OB, Borderies, cask #FB2311, 2025)

François Voyer ‘La Gardienne Lot 19.14’ (44.9%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2025)

François Voyer ‘Le Baladeur Lot 79’ (50.4%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 2025)

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 
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