|
|
Hi, you're in the Archives, February 2009 - Part 2 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
February
28, 2009 |
|
|
|
TASTING
– TWO OBAN |
Oban
14yo (43%, OB, Bottled +/- 2008)
Colour: gold. Nose: this well known
westerner starts as coastal as expected,
with whiffs of sea air, quite some
iodine, dried kelp… It’s
also maybe a tad soapy (just a tad).
Other than that we get bitter oranges,
butterscotch, grass and a faint smokiness
that gives it a pleasant elegance.
Actually, this is an unusual profile,
coastal but not fully so, candied
but not fully so, fruity but not fully
so… That gives it maybe a slight
fragility. After 15 minutes: quite
some beer and baker’s yeast
now. Mouth: once again, this is a
little dichotomous. Orange cake and
caramel on one side and salt and tea
on the other side, with a little lemon
bringing everything together. Finish:
medium long, drier than expected.
Tea and a little tinned pineapple
in the aftertaste. Comments: an intriguing
dram, less easy and ‘commercial’
than one would expect. SGP:442
– 80 points. |
Oban
18 yo 1978/1996 (59%, Signatory, cask
#215, 272 bottles)
Independent Obans are very rare but
I already had a 1963 by Cadenhead
that was absolutely stunning. Colour:
white wine. Nose: rather harsh, very
grassy, flinty and grainy… Water
may well be needed right from the
start. With water (neat): well, this
is quite spectacular. An immense grassiness,
extremely nice, and various herbs
such as rosemary, sage and bay leaves
plus quite some wax and shoe polish.
Very classy, old school whisky. Mouth
(neat): rather smooth at the attack
but then it just doesn’t stop
growing bigger and more assertive.
Raspberry eau-de-vie, ginger, cloves
and orange liqueur. Yes, unusual!
With water: it got truly wonderful!
Perfect combination of ‘resinous’
fruits (orange zest, walnuts) with
an oily waxiness and lots of spices,
first ginger and then peppermint,
plain black pepper and even a little
cumin. Excellent, perfect balance.
Finish: long, ending on peppered oranges
and just a pinch of salt. Comments:
a very classy dram that takes its
time but that just wouldn’t
stop getting more and more complex
yet compact after a few minutes. The
OB to the power of two. SGP:462
- 91 points. |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: something very sweet
by Cabo Verde's Sara
Tavares, it's called
Lisboa Kuya and it's on Balancê.
Please buy her music a.s.a.p. |
|
|
February
21, 2009 |
|
|
|
ON
HOLIDAYS!
Whiskyfun
will be on holidays for a few days
and we’ve decided to limit our
digital (but not liquid!) activities
during this week, so please don’t
expect any new posts until next weekend,
unless, unless…. Anyway, we’ll
be away in a beautiful German speaking
country so we thought we should post
this marvellous 1970 German ad for
Black & White. Ha, Germans!
Copy: Wenn ein Mann black &
white sieht… dann denkt er an
Whisky, der an der Spitze steht. (When
a man sees black & white…
he thinks of a whisky that’s
on top.) |
|
TASTING
TWO
‘GERMAN’ 1967 BEN NEVIS |
Ben
Nevis 37 yo 1967/2004 (54.4%, OB,
for Alambic Classique, Sherry hogshead,
cask #2219, 225 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: unusual, very
unusual. Like cooked ham that would
have been coated with a mixture of
tar and chestnut purée…
I know this sounds very weird but
this whisky truly starts like no other.
Then we have a sudden burst of tropical
fruits, especially mangos and passion
fruits, then walnut liqueur, then
strong coffee (and maybe also chicory
coffee), the apple peeling, then leather
polish… And here they come,
the trademark notes of fresh strawberries
that are often to be found in Ben
Nevis in our opinion… Then we’re
more on strawberry jam… Then
we get a faint mouldiness and a little
rubber… This one just wouldn’t
keep quiet! Highly entertaining on
the nose. Mouth: punchy and wackier
than on the nose, starting on a rather
heavy but not unpleasant woodiness,
like some overinfused herbal tea (aniseed,
thyme). Gets then meaty and kind of
‘Indian’ (curry, cardamom)
and finally maybe just a tad bitterish
but also with nice notes of bitter
oranges and cinchona (Campari at cask
strength ;-)) Finish: long, back on
these notes of chestnut purée
that we found in the nose. Comments:
very unusual and needing your attention,
not one to sip while watching a stoopid
moovie on TV. In short, a demanding
but ‘anti-boring’ old
whisky. SGP:462 - 88 points. |
Ben
Nevis 41 yo 1967/2008 (50.1%, OB,
for Alambic Classique, Sherry hogshead,
cask #1280, 103 bottles)
Yes, only 72 or 73 litres have been
left in this cask by the greedy angels!
Colour: brown/bronze. Nose: we’re
in the same family but this is has
much, much more sherried tones, hence
more coffee, more tar and more toasted/burnt
oak and cake at first nosing. The
strawberry jam is well here as well,
leather polish too, old walnuts…
And once again a fruity blast occurs,
this time more on kiwis (agreed, that
can be close to fresh strawberries).
The whole gets finally more and more
leathery and, just like its younger
twin, pleasantly mouldy. Not really
classic but once again, anything but
boring. Hints of very old rum coming
through after twenty minutes. Mouth:
amazingly big, rich and concentrated
at 40 years of age, when so many other
malts start to get a tad, err…
Say slightly senile. Once again there’s
a lot of strawberries but more as
liqueur this time, together with a
heavy liquorice and these tarry notes
that we already had on the nose. Other
than that we have a lot of ultra-dry
sherry character (flor), a load of
bitter chocolate, litres of un-sugared
coffee (ristretto!) and buckets of
walnut liqueur. And hints of bitter
herbs liqueur (pick your fav’rit’
brand). Finish: very long and a tad
fruitier again (strawberries never
give up, do they), with a lot of dark
chocolate and coffee in the aftertaste
and at the retro-olfaction. Dry sherry,
what else? Comments: spectacularly
big dry sherry and, above all, no
traces of sulphur. Sure you have to
love heavy sherry to like this but
if you do, you’ll adore this
Ben Nevis (err, does that make any
sense?) SGP:373 - 90 points. |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: he's a teacher in our
little valley in Alsace and his
name is Patrick Breitel
(no website yet it seems...) He's
singing a funny blues called Elsasser
Assa... In Alsatian! You should
buy Patrick Breitel's music but
to do that you have to come over
here to find his CD... at the butcher's!
|
|
Alternatively,
you may find many of the delicious
Alsatian dishes and specialties he's
signing about on the website of La
Cigogne Gourmande (the gourmand
stork). |
|
February
20, 2009 |
|
|
|
TASTING
THREE 18yo LADDIES |
Bruichladdich
18 yo (40%, Duthie for Giorgio d'Ambrosio,
early 1980s?)
Colour: full gold. Nose: fine and
complex right at first nosing, with
big whiffs of melon (not just the
pulp, the whole fruit with its skin)
as well as notes of old roses and
antique perfume, very feminine (Joy
de Patou?). Hints of bergamots and
herbs (chives, coriander). Really
smells like a high-end perfume (not
the other one - facing extinction
thank god – rgar we know only
too well among whisky aficionados).
Beautiful nose, rather unusual. Great
OBE too. Mouth: really big at just
40% (probably 39 or 38% after all
these years in glass), unexpectedly
salty and superbly and delicately
sherried and mentholated. Like old-fashioned
cough sweets – remember the
original Pulmolls? Hints of plum spirit
and apricots and then more salt. Oysters.
Very ‘Islayer without the peat’
if that makes any sense. Finish: medium
long but still very salty. Salted
apricots? Comments: this one reminds
me of these legends about Islay barrels
being rolled into seawater so that
they could board the puffers that
couldn’t reach the shore…
Hence their huge saltiness. Ha, legends!
SGP:352 - 88 points.
(and thank you, Patrick) |
Bruichladdich
18 yo 2nd Edition (46%, OB, Matured
in Petit Manseng casks from Clos Uroulat,
Sweet Jurançon, 2008)
Jurançon is in the far southwest
of France, and all wines are white
there and mainly sweet. Petit Manseng
is the grape variety. Colour: straw.
Nose: not easy! Much less demonstrative
than the first version of the 18 (Opitz
Pinot Noir) and actually quite shy,
with notes of fresh wood, barrel (slight
mouldiness), grass and ashes. As if
the wine cask had sort of neutralised
the usually more expressive spirit.
Takes off a bit after quite some minutes
(butter pears and pineapples, plums)
but never gets really, well, expressive.
The wine is discreet, even if there
are a few perfumy notes flying around
(roses again.) Mouth: the wine is
more obvious here. Hints of pineapple
liqueur – or pineapple-flavoured
tea, vanilla fudge and ‘white
wine’, getting then rather more
citrusy (grapefruits). Nicely made
but not exactly my cup of malt because
it’s a tad too dual for my taste
(whisky + wine). Finish: rather long,
more lemony. Just a little rubber
in the aftertaste. Comments: pretty
drinkable and guys who like these
combos will really enjoy this, no
doubt. I’ll go a little higher
than when I first tried this baby
blind, but I won’t swap one
bottle of 2001 Resurrection for 12
bottles of this. SGP:541 -
79 points. |
Bruichladdich
18 yo 1989/2008 (49%, OB, Bourbon
Cask Strength, Asia)
Colour: gold. Nose: straight, raw,
natural and ultra-clean spirit, with
some vanilla but not too much (not
a wood bomb at all), the same kind
of notes of melon skin as in the oldie,
hints of kirsch (fruit stones) and
fresh almonds and then a pleasant
grassiness. Quite self-restrained
but elegant and classy, far from the
more exuberant wine-ace’d Laddies.
More oak coming out after a while.
Mouth: this is good! Once again, it’s
a little raw and unpolished but it’s
straight ahead natural malt whisky,
right at the border between grassiness
and fruitiness. Apples, white peaches,
chlorophyll gums, liquorice…
This one really grows on you, the
liquoricy notes getting bigger and
bigger. I like liquorice! Finish:
long, on, well, liquoricy apples –
should that exist. Comments: very
good whisky, a little austere but
very ‘honest’ and pleasing.
Exactly the opposite of a ‘commercial
‘ malt whisky, I’d say.
Did this one have go to Asia? SGP:441
- 86 points. |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: Yes, time to have a little
blues again… Why not Oscar ‘Buddy’ Woods,
king of slide guitar, singing the
Lone wolf blues around 1935? (that’s
on the very good CD The Early Blues
Roots Of Led Z). Please buy these
old bluesmen’s music. |
|
|
February
19, 2009 |
|
|
|
TASTING
– GLANN AR MOR'S FIRST
This
first official bottling ever of Britanny’s
Glann ar Mor is out… And more
or less sold out. We already tried
some cask samples from both the unpeated
and the peated version and both having
being much to our liking, we’re
more than happy to be able to taste
this new baby. Now, to which other
bottling should we oppose it? Obviously
not to another Glann ar Mor, as there
isn’t any yet (the peated version
should be out in November this year,
watch it!) so let’s try this
in solo for once, with just Glenmorangie
10 and Tyrconnel NAS as benchmarks
on the side. |
Glann
ar Mor ‘Taol Esa – 1än
Gwech 08’ (46%, OB, bourbon
barrel, 305 bottles, 2008)
Gee, we already had to learn Gaelic
with the Scots, and now we have to
learn Breton. So much for dwindling
languages! Colour: white wine. Nose:
sure it may be the extra-3% but this
is clearly bigger and more aromatic
than the Glenmo. And truth is that
I really like this (and I really,
really, really mean it, it’s
not just because I’m French!
;-)) Starts on vanilla, as expected,
but also on rather beautiful notes
of resin varnish, with the fruits
coming out after a few seconds. Fresh
orange juice (quite a lot), fresh
almonds, hints of grapefruits…
But rather less pears and pineapples
than expected, which means that this
is already quite mature indeed. Quite
some muesli too and distant whiffs
of sea spray. Oh, and fresh almonds!
It’s complex spirit that’s
got a few similarities with the Tyrconnel
(ah, youth!) but that truly destroyed
the rather shy Glenmorangie. Mouth:
it’s powerful, fat and oily
and one may recognise the small pot
stills’ work here. It’s
more or less the same sequences as
on the nose, first oak and resins,
then fruits (hints of bananas) with
notes of cough syrup and plain eucalyptus,
and finally more fruits (cider apples)
with a little bubblegum and a slightly
grassy ‘capsule’ around
the whole. Really characterfull. Finish:
long, frankly grassier and waxier
now, with more obvious signs of youth
that should disappear after a few
more years of maturing. After all,
this is barely 3yo! Comments: Brittany
is a little hotter than Scotland (but
just as ‘maritime and Atlantic’)
so whiskies mature fairly quicker
and this cask seems to have been very
active, even if this 3yo is still
a bit in the junior league. We aren’t
very far from Scotland’s Northeastern
coast here… and with style and
panache! SGP:461 - 84 points.
|
BONUS
- This photograph of owner Jean
Donnay doing the first trials at
Glann ar Mor a few years ago. The
process was soon to be very much
improved after these very early
days, as it was decided that the
stills would be better driven from
the outside (whilst the spirit would
get less beefy ;-).
|
|
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: She’s from Naples,
Italy, she’s big in Japan
it seems, and she’s singing
the very nice Valse
de la lune in French (from Wolf’s
Rain O.S.T.). Here name is Ilaria
Graziano; please buy
her music. |
|
|
February
18, 2009 |
|
|
|
TASTING
– TWO 1972 GLENLIVET AND A
BONUS |
Glenlivet
36 yo 1972/2008 (44.9%, Alambic Classique,
Jamaica Rum finish, cask #810251,
228 bottles)
To be precise, this one was finished
for ten months in a cask from Long
Pond Distillery. Colour: full gold.
Nose: quite superb I must say but
the first whiffs are of plain rum,
with a lot of sugarcane, overripe
bananas and that very particular grassiness
that’s only to be found in Caribbean
rums. It’s very interesting
to nose this alongside an original
official 1972 Glenlivet… Very
different spirits for sure and not
much of Glenlivet to be found in here
(even if ‘Glenlivet’ isn’t
too easy to define.) Okay, enough
gibberish, this is simply a very,
very nice Caribbean rum with a Scottish
base, the latter only come through
at deeper nosing, with hints of ale
and wet hay. Mouth: once again, it’s
the rum that talks first, with quite
some brown sugar, dried bananas and
notes of bergamots and orange marmalade,
followed with a little milk chocolate
and a slight smokiness. Actually,
the whisky says zilch here! Finish:
long and, once again, as rummy as
rum, with only a faint maltiness and
a little salt at the very end of the
end. Comments: it must have been some
rum in that barrel! Did they really
check if the barrel had been emptied
before pouring the whisky into it?
Oh, and are you hesitating between
an old rum and an old whisky as your
next purchase? Hesitate no more, try
this; Rumlivet, one of the best rums
I ever tried ;-). SGP:650
- 88 points. |
Glenlivet
1972/1998 (54.3%, OB, Vintage, Code
2LVF010)
‘Pure Single Malt Scotch Whisky’!
Colour: full gold. Nose: this has
nothing to do with the 36yo, it’s
rather more subtle but also shy and
discreet, with only a few floral notes
flying around at first sniffing, as
well as a little vanilla. Gets then
rather maltier and candied, with hints
of cloves and a little mocha but it’s
still really low-key. A little fresh
oak and hints of bubblegum. Let’s
add water: nada, niente, nichts! Water
just killed it – and it’ll
never resurrect. Mouth (neat): more
to my liking than on the nose when
undiluted, more nervous but still
round and very fruity (pineapple,
Juicy Fruit, very ripe apricots).
Quite honeyed and vanilled too. Good
whisky now. With water: ah, now it
worked, the whole getting smooth,
fresh, even fruitier and more honeyed,
also with more spices. Finish: it
gets bigger and bigger now, while
the nose stays almost dumb. Bizarre,
bizarre, how bizarre… Comments:
very good whisky for sure but maybe
this one really suffered from the
comparison with the highly exuberant
Rumlivet. SGP:431 - 84 points.
|
BONUS
– this one wasn’t
distilled in 1972 but bottled in 1972:
Avonside
Glenlivet 33 yo 1938 (43%, Gordon
& MacPhail, rotation 1972)
I’m not too sure there’s
Glenlivet inside, especially since
some younger Avonsides were actually
blends or vatted. It’ll be hard
to find out after so many years…
Colour: full gold. Nose: a first!
Seriously, it’s the first time
that I can nose a whisky that smells
exactly like a basket of fresh mushrooms,
and this is no joke. Believe me, there’s
nothing else, only fresh mushrooms.
Don’t worry, we’ll spare
you useless descriptors such as “rhodopaxillus
obscurus picked in early November
at 6am” or “young boletus
edulis found next to my stepfather’s
country house” but you get the
drift. And I absolutely adore mushrooms…
|
|
Mouth:
well, this is less mushroomy, but
still a bit on the mouldy side. Good
body at the attack, with also very
pleasant leathery notes, a little
coffee, a little liquorice, a little
mint, hints of aniseed, then more
liquorice, then kind of an earthiness
that leads us to… more mushrooms!
Isn’t this whisky magic? Finish:
not too long but clean, full and more
candied and honeyed, with quite some
mint in the aftertaste. Comments:
maybe you would think that these mushroomy
notes mean a flawed old whisky, but
it’s not the case at all. In
truth, this is rather beautiful, even
if not technically ‘perfect’.
And after all, it’s pre-war
whisky! Is it Glenlivet? No ideas…
SGP:262 – 89 points.
|
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: When two luminaries such
as Jean
'Toots' Thielemans
(not Timmermans) and Bill
Evans get together
to record a LP, if simply can’t
give anything but wonders such as
Sno' Peas (from their very famous
1978 record Affinity.) Please buy
these wonderful musicians’
music! |
|
|
February
17, 2009 |
|
|
|
TASTING
– TWO LAGAVULIN AND A BONUS |
Lagavulin
1991/2007 'Distillers Edition' (43%,
OB, lgv 4/495)
The Lagavulin DE has always been a
very embarrassing whisky to me, especially
the 1979 and other early versions
(but not the 1984) because it’s
exactly the kind of bottling I should
not like: a wonderful malt whisky
‘quickly finished’ in
unlikely so-called wine casks to offer…
what? Range-widening? Alas, I always
found these DEs to be wonderful whiskies.
Sugar, how disappointing! Colour:
gold/amber. Nose: totally superb!
An amazing rubber boots/bitter oranges
combo, evolving towards more coastal
elements (dried kelp, brine), old
leather, camphor, tobacco and orange
marmalade, then beef stock, pu-erh
tea and soot. Disappointingly brilliant
;-). Mouth: I think it’s not
possible that this whisky hasn’t
a higher ABV than just 43%. Starts
extremely ashy and amazingly kippery
and salty, with a lot of tobacco (chewed
Habano), gentian spirit, dried ginger
and salted liquorice. Develops on
the same beautiful aromas and keeps
bombarding us with the same ultra-huge
ashy smokiness. Finish: it’s
long (maybe not the longest, but still)
and still very kippery, with some
caramel coming through now. Caramelised
kippers? Comments: the first time
I tried this one it was blind and
I went for 92 points, but that’s
obviously much too high for a finished
whisky. Let’s mark it down!
SGP:448 - 91 points.
Yes, that’s still disappointingly
high, so let’s try to take revenge
with an oldie… |
Lagavulin
12 yo (43%, OB, green on cream label,
France, very late 1970s)
The very first version of this green/cream,
right after the delightful white labels.
Colour: dark gold. Nose: this is unexpectedly
close to the DE, only less beefy and
more sooty and mineral. In that sense
it’s also different from more
recent versions of this 12, such as
the well-known version for Montenegro
in Italy (no, not Montenegro the country).
Almond oil, olive oil, soot, shoe
polish, kumquats and gingerbread.
Very, very nice but less spectacular
than the recent DE. A little austere.
Mouth: ahhhh, this is huge! It’s
much more medicinal, resinous and
chocolaty than the DE, with notes
of tropical fruits that start to emerge
like in many old peat monsters (Ardbeg/Laphroaig
1967, anyone?) There are huge notes
of grapefruit plus hints of mangos
and passion fruits but those do not
actually replace the peatiness like
in some other old Islayers –
that is to say that this one has still
got his two cylinders so to speak.
Other than that there’s the
classic ‘coastalness’
and a lot of orangey things as well
as a beautiful earthiness. Simply
excellent. Finish: very long and,
just like the recent DE, very kippery/salty.
Comments: a great dram. It’s
quite amazing that the very recent
DE and this old 12 are so similar.
This one is just a tiny tad more complex
on the palate. SGP:358 - 92
points. |
Vanilla
Sky 14 yo 1994/2008 (53.3%, The Whisky
Fair, bourbon hogshead, 274 bottles)
Of course this could be any distillery,
we added it to a Lagavulin session
completely at random. Colour: white
wine. Nose: this, it seems, has much
less wood influence, and it’s
certainly not from a sherry cask.
It’s very clean, peaty but not
excessively so, very smoky/ashy and
kind of metallic (stove), that being
complemented with notes of crystallised
quinces and hints of lemon pie. Whiffs
of sea breeze and wet wool like many
true peaty Islayers but the whole
is rather shier than the OBs and displays
little cask influence. A version that’s
truly ‘au naturel’. After
twenty minutes: more ashes and straight
smoke. Mouth: au naturel indeed. Young,
fruity (pears and apples) and rather
mineral (Riesling), with also hints
of gentian eau-de-vie and other earthy/leafy
stuff. The sweetness grows bigger
after the attack, with a little more
vanilla (custard) but also an obvious
saltiness. Finish: long and on the
same profile. Comments: a slightly
sweeter version of the well-known
official 12yo CS, but a young wild
beast nonetheless, despite its 14
years of age. Very good ‘young’
peaty baby. SGP:538 –
87 points. |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: We’ve already posted
about Brazil’s superb Vanessa
Falabella and her very
groovy covers (!) but let’s
play a little game today if you
will. Listen to her rendition of
Superstition and try not to move
a toe or a finger while it lasts
(even when it gets Georgebensonesque)…
Right, you lost, so please buy Vanessa
Falabella’s music! |
|
|
February
16, 2009 |
|
|
|
TASTING
TWO
YOUNG 1972 LEDAIG |
Ledaig
10 yo 1972 (40%, G&M Connoisseurs
Choice, Old Brown Label, +/- 1982)
We absolutely adored a 13yo in the
same series (93) so no need to say
that we now have high expectations.
Colour: gold. Nose: oh, what a wonderful
smoke and what a marvellous wax! There’s
the ‘coal stove effect’
happening first (ash, soot, coal,
cast iron), then a magnificent fruitiness
(quinces), then resins (propolis,
gum), then a little camphor, antiseptic,
then pu-erh tea… At ten years
of age, this is perfect whisky. No
wonder this is legendary! Mouth: who
would have imagined that such a youngster
(and at 40% abv, at that) would be
that, err, supersonic? Big peat, loads
of crystallised and dried fruits (quince
jelly, figs, marzipan, dried oranges),
smoked tea (lapsang souchong), liquorice,
bitter chocolate… Won-der-full.
Finish: right, it’s maybe not
interminable, but what a perfect density.
Smoked marzipan and… maybe morels.
Pepper. Comments: a 10yo/40% malt,
really? Exceptional bottle ageing.
SGP:457 - 93 points. |
Ledaig
1972/1988 (43%, Revived by Full Proof,
228 bottles, 75cl)
This is said to be the 15yo
MacNab of which the excellent
Jeoren has found a stash hidden somewhere
in Scotland, which he then labelled
or relabelled. Great idea as there’s
a beautiful painting by the no less
excellent Hans
Dillesse on the new label (we’ve
got a wonderful watercolour by Hans
in our whisky cellar). Colour: straw.
Nose: right, it’s not easy to
follow a total beauty such as the
G&M, but this one is very far
from being ridiculous, quite the contrary.
Drier, less emphatically aromatic
and more on coffee and butter but
other than that we do have the same
kind of medicinal notes (embrocations),
coal smoke, pine resin, camphor…
It’s also a little more farmy
than the G&M. Mouth: we’re
now closer to the G&M, and actually
similar. Okay, this one is a little
oilier, a tad more medicinal and,
once again, drier and spicier. I had
written ‘Zubrovska’ about
the MacNab back in 2006 and I’ll
stick with that. Finish: long, smoky
and a little waxier. And the expected
pinch of salt. Comments: another superlative
1972 Ledaig. No reason to rate this
one lower or higher than the 15yo
MacNab… SGP:357 –
90 points. |
And
also Ledaig
1994/2007 (43%, MacKillop’s
Choice, cask #74)
Colour: white wine. Nose: pleasantly
sharp and austere (flints, chalk,
wet stones) but in no way in the same
class as the 1972s. Develops more
on porridge, fresh glue and ‘new
plastic pouch’. Also very, very
milky and butyric. Mouth: sweet, almost
sugary, but rather more pleasant than
on the nose. Apple juice, cane syrup
and ‘porridgy peat’ (I’m
sure you see what I mean). Finish:
the best part, not only because it’s
the end. Rather long and enjoyably
peppery and gingery. Comments: why
they lost the recipe they came up
with in the early 1970s, I don’t
know! SGP:264 - 72 points.
|
|
PETE
McPEAT AND JACK WASHBACK |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: Whether Emeline
Michel is really the
“Joni Mitchell of Haïti”
or not, what’s sure is that
she reigns over her island’s
music these days. Please try her
Gade Papi and then rush out and
buy her CDs (unless you prefer to
buy crappy mp3s you-know-where).
|
|
|
February
15, 2009 |
|
|
|
TASTING
TWO
YOUNG BEN NEVIS
(Nevisses?) |
Ben
Nevis 1997/2008 (43%, Jean Boyer,
Best Casks of Scotland, 2000 bottles)
From re-coopered hogsheads.
Sorry about the picture, the bottle
had been slaughtered by some savages.
Colour: white wine. Nose: a full load
of fresh gooseberries and strawberries
topped with cherry-flavoured yoghurt
and a little grated ginger. As natural
and pleasantly fresh as a young malt
whisky can get. Faint farminess in
the background (wet hay). Mouth: unexpectedly
big, almost punchy, rather maltier
and spicier than on the nose. Quite
some fresh fruits as well, bananas,
butter pears… And liquorice
and a little pine resin. Finish: not
too long but clean, more on toffee
and vanilla, with even a little salt.
Comments: one could drink litres of
this young and flawless westerner.
SGP:540 - 80 points. |
Ben
Nevis 12 yo 1996/2008 (46%, Jack Wieber,
Castle Collection, sherry cask #815)
Colour: gold. Nose: it’s quite
interesting that this one is so close
to its sibling despite a very different
wood treatment. Same notes of strawberries
but also more herbal and tea-ish notes.
Very pleasant whiffs of hawthorn tea.
Gets then more complex, with hints
of aniseed and orange liqueur that
may come from the refill sherry cask.
Very nice, rather delicate nose. Mouth:
once again, it’s got rather
more oomph than the 1997 but it’s
also less clean and faintly rubbery.
That’s a little too bad because
the rest is excellent, with quite
some honey, crystallised oranges,
cherry liqueur (guignolet) and ginger
tonic. Let’s see if water will
make the rubber disappear… Well,
yes, that worked, but it got also
rather simpler and more on orange
squash. Finish: medium long and rather
maltier. Comments: good Ben Nevis,
good dram. SGP:441 - 78 points.
|
CRAZY
WHISKY ADS: DON'T
DRINK AND DRIVE? |
|
Dewar's,
USA, 1903. Body: 'There
is no more exhilarating sport or recreation
than automobiling. The pleasure of
a spin over country roads or through
city park is greatly enhanced if the
basket is well stocked with Dewar's
Scotch "White Label". |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: Seabear
is an Icelandic indie-folk band
from Reykjavik (no, they didn’t
have only banks and Björk)
that’s very good in our opinion.
Their Seashell is very, well, pleasant.
Please buy their music, please… |
|
Check
the index of all entries:
Whisky
Music
Nick's Concert
Reviews
|
|
|
|
|
Best
malts I had these weeks - 90+
points only - alphabetical:Ben
Nevis 41 yo 1967/2008 (50.1%,
OB, for Alambic Classique, Sherry hogshead,
cask #1280, 103 bottles)Lagavulin
12 yo (43%, OB, green
on cream label, France, very late 1970s)
Lagavulin
1991/2007 'Distillers Edition' (43%,
OB, lgv 4/495)Ledaig
10 yo 1972 (40%, G&M Connoisseurs
Choice, Old Brown Label, +/- 1982) Ledaig
1972/1988 (43%, Revived by Full Proof,
228 bottles, 75cl)Oban
18 yo 1978/1996 (59%, Signatory, cask
#215, 272 bottles)
|
|
|
|