|
|
Hi, you're in the Archives, March 2006 - Part 2 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
March
31, 2006 |
|
|
|
TASTING
- THREE INDIE GLENROTHES |
Glenrothes
15 yo 1990/2006 (46%, Signatory Unchillfiltered,
butt #15356, 678 bottles)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: this one
starts very fragrant, with bold and
vibrant notes of nectar, honey and
buttercup, not unlike some of the
best OB’s (and some Balvenies).
Lots of caramelly notes as well, toffee,
cake, pastries, apricot jam, white
Port… All that in all freshness
and cleanliness. Not very complex
but flawless and as close to direct
pleasure as conceivable. Mouth: not
too bold but very sweet, very malty
and very caramelly. Extremely typical.
Develops on tarte tatin, crème
brûlée, candy sugar,
something of a young but good rum,
roast fruits… Hints of slightly
burnt cake crust, Werther’s
Originals… Well, you get the
picture. The finish is rather long,
with something nicely fruity coated
with, you guessed it, caramel and
a little salted liquorice. A very
nice, uncomplicated indie Glenrothes.
Again, pure pleasure… 86
points.
Glenrothes
34 yo 1968/2003 (40.3%, Duncan Taylor)
It’s sometimes scary to taste
this kind of very old malt showing
a very low A.B.V., as many are very
respectable but sort of, well, tired.
And I’m even more scared because
we’ll then have an even older
1968 Glenrothes, of which the A.B.V.
is… 57.2%! Okay, I think I took
every possible precaution, so let’s
go. Colour: pale gold. Nose: very
delicate and elegant but certainly
not weak. Superb notes of very ripe
apricots and melons, whole oranges,
tangerines and quince jelly with also
hints of smoke, marzipan and beeswax.
Extremely fresh and clean, which is
amazing. Is that all? No, the malt
gets then delicately flowery (cherry
blossom, lilac), with also faint whiffs
of smoke and something strangely maritime
– or maybe it’s just the
freshness. And finally hints of caramel
crème and honey and a gingery
touch. Just superb, not very different
from the 1990, just much, much subtler.
Mouth: excellent news, it’s
not tired, nor too woody, nor watery.
Quite on the contrary, there’s
still quite some fruit (see the list
above), vanilla and caramel, the whole
being underlined with tannins that
didn’t get drying, white pepper,
nutmeg, ginger, with something slightly
earthy (ginseng) and even a little
nervousness brought by notes of kiwi
and lemon. And the finish is quite
long, sweet and spicy… A great
surprise, far from many other very
old malts having great noses but absent
palates. 90 points.
Glenrothes 36
yo 1968/2005 (57.2%, Duncan Taylor,
Cask 13485)
Here’s the possibly more brutal
brother. Interesting to check which
is the best one. Colour: gold amber
(surprisingly darker). Nose: more
spirity indeed, very powerful (amazing
at 37yo) but also more closed at first
nosing. Just something coffeeish and
caramelly but wait, here it comes
after two or three minutes! It takes
off with a blend of old books (which
I always like) and dried fruits (mostly
citrus but also figs), and then some
superb vegetal notes (both fresh and
dried flowers, hay, fern, moss). It
keeps developing by getting more and
more complex, on old Sauterne wine,
fresh mint, peach skin, apricot, vanilla
crème… And then some
rather bold waxy and resinous notes,
leather, eucalyptus, cardamom and
finally some very elegant and structuring
oaky touches. Just fab! Even nicer
than it’s sibling. Mouth: lots
of vivacity, lots of oomph! I’d
have never said it’s a 37 yo
whisky, never. The attack is on crystallized
oranges and dried ginger (the wood’s
influence), and then lots of other
spices. White pepper, cardamom again,
clove, cinnamon… Wow, it gets
‘oomphier’ by the minute…
Lots of orange marmalade, something
smoky, sweet and sour touches (from
the wood)… It gets then frankly
oaky but it’s in a rarely experienced,
very enjoyable way. Then minty…
Yes, a fab Glenrothes, no doubt, and
even the finish is superb, coating
but nervous, citrusy and spicy, with
quite some pepper on vanilla crème
and lots of salt. A symphonic malt.
93 points. |
MUSIC
– Heavily
recommended listening - Care for
something quiet, peaceful and 'globally'
beautiful? Then have a try at Hem
and their fab singer Sally Ellyson
doing Valentine's
Day.mp3 (of course) and you'll
'see what you hear'! And then buy
all their music, thanks. |
|
|
March
30, 2006 |
|
|
TASTING
- THREE CRAIGELLACHIES |
|
Craigellachie
17 yo 1972/1989 (46%, Signatory, cask
#1655)
Colour: a little draker than white
wine. Nose: lots of presence in this
already old bottle. Starts rather
spirity and smoky, with something
very, very fruity that comes to the
front gradually (apple juice and pears).
I must say it’s quite beautiful,
extremely fresh and fruity but also
quite complex. Great notes of high-end
muesli (the one they serve in Gstaad
or St-Moritz ;-)), a bouquet of violets,
high-end pils beer, something animal
as well (mink), vanilla crème…
And some beautiful, slightly sour
– in a nice way- oaky tones.
A great, very natural profile. Mouth:
wow, it’s even nicer now. A
nervous and compact attack, mixing
all sorts of fresh fruits with something
smoky and mineral and quite some spearmint
that keeps the whole very lively.
Lots of pastries after that, crystallized
fruits and plants (orange zests, kumquats,
angelica), resinous wax, hints of
wasabi… Extremely coherent and
very punchy and satisfying, slowly
ending on a great bitterness (candied
lemon skin). Pure, natural –
but not boring at all - whisky. I
like it a lot! 88 points. |
Craigellachie
32 yo 1973/2005 (42.7%, Douglas Laing
Platinum, 181 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: the profile is
rather similar, except that there’s
more wood and a slight sourness now,
the whole being most enjoyable. It’s
also more complex, revealing some
new enchanting subtleties every minute.
First we have some bold notes of pastis
or ouzo (aniseed), then all sorts
of other plants (pine needles, dill,
celery), then lots of vanilla crème
and fudge, and then quite some eucalyptus
(Vicks VapoRub again) and liquorice.
It gets then quite buttery before
the nice wooden sourness strikes back.
Lots happening in there, great. Mouth:
it’s not extremely bold now,
and very woody, but again it’s
not over the hill at all. The wood
gives it a perfect structure in fact,
and we have then all sorts of herbs
again (roughly the same as on the
nose, plus quite some spearmint and
lemon balm), herbal teas (camomile,
linden tree) and citrus fruits such
as tangerines, both fresh and dried.
An amazing freshness at 32yo. And
the finish isn’t short at all,
not even drying, on gentian and pear
spirit, orange marmalade and cinnamon.
Maybe it lacks a little roundness
but no doubt it’s another very
good Craigellachie! 89 points. |
Craigellachie
1989/2005 (54.2%, Dewar Rattray, cask
#3882)
Colour: straw. Nose: more power, more
oomph, but it doesn’t start
less interestingly. This time it’s
rather on full honey mode, with lots
of acacia and heather, but no mineral,
animal or smoky notes anymore. But
we do have flowers instead (all sorts,
including roses) and loads of fruits:
apricots, very ripe apples, very ripe
peaches, very ripe plums, the whole
being… err… very ripe.
We have also a dash of allspice…
Okay, maybe it’s a little simpler
than its older brothers but it’s
by no means less enjoyable. Mouth:
a punchy, sweet, fruity, spicy and
very compact attack that, again, lacks
just a little complexity. Lots of
apple pie and white pepper, mirabelle
jam, dried ginger and ‘simple’
honey… And a long, sweet, bold
and satisfying finish, with just,
again, a little extra bitterness to
make the whole even more balanced
– and also a sprinkling of salt.
A malt that will neither make you
scratch your head, nor disappoint
you. 86 points. |
PETE
McPEAT AND JACK WASHBACK |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening - Right, we had Eric Sardinas
yesterday, so let’s have Johnny
Winter himself today,
playing Be
careful with a fool.mp3 . Don’t
we all love logorrheic guitars?
Anyway, please buy Johnny Winter’s
music! |
|
|
March
29, 2006 |
|
|
TASTING
- TWO OFFICIAL 21
yo GLENLIVETS |
|
Glenlivet
21 yo ‘Archive’ (43%,
OB, 2005 or 2006)
Colour: amber. Nose: wow, this is
much more complex than expected! It
starts with a little smoke (a distant
campfire), cooked strawberries and
fruitcake. Really powerful considering
its A.B.V. Goes on with something
maritime (yes, I know where the distillery
is located), notes of toffee, toasted
cake, grain and malt… And a
superb oakiness, very elegant. Ah,
classicism! Mouth: a bold and rather
powerful attack, very creamy, on praline
and orange liqueur (Cointreau), hot
cake… Notes of crystallized
oranges, high quality fudge, roasted
coffee beans… Again, it’s
very classical, and the finish is
long again, very complex and enjoyable
(quite orangey). Highly drinkable,
and much better, I think than some
previous versions. Very good news!
88 points. |
Glenlivet
21 yo 1948/1969 (45.7%, OB for Italy,
Baretto)
A very rare, said to be peaty version
of Glenlivet 21yo. Colour: straw.
Nose: oh, what an incredible freshness!
There are whiffs of peat indeed, let’s
say like in some old bottles of Bowmore,
Lagavulin or Laphroaig, but also lots
of fresh citrus fruits. Tangerines,
freshly squeezed oranges, very ripe
lemons… Also great phenolic
notes, like fermenting hay, clean
horse stable… Goes on with old
humid wine cellar, mushroom bed, and
then lots of fresh herbs (dill, coriander,
mint, lemon balm, chive) and something
superbly resinous. Not too far from
perfection and extremely elegant.
Mouth: hey hey, lots of body here,
despite almost 40 years of bottle
ageing. Very waxy (beeswax), with
quite some fir honey, rose jam (or
rosewater), vanilla fudge and yes,
quite some peat. Hints of nougat and
praline, earl grey tea, almond cake,
marzipan… And also a little
cough syrup as often in these old
bottles. Not tired in any way, amazing!
And yes it was a cork stopper. The
finish is rather long, on dried fruits
and orange marmalade with a dash of
white pepper, getting just a tad too
tea-ish and metallic at the end (typical
old bottle taste). Anyway, a brilliant
old peaty Glenlivet, extremely classy.
92 points (and thanks,
Giovanni). |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening - Is it Johnny Winter?
No, it’s Eric
Sardinas from Texas
(hum – I mean, the rhyme)
doing Low
down love.mp3 (from his 1999
album Treat Me Right). Listen to
it till the end, which sounds very
‘whole lotta love-esque’.
And please buy Eric Sardinas’
music! |
|
|
March
28, 2006 |
|
|
|
MUSIC
AND WHISKY INTERVIEW
DARREN KRAMER
Great news – and true madness!
After Luc Brewaeys who composed
several contemporary classical pieces
named after famous Scottish distilleries,
we could get hold of another accomplished
and famous musician who’s
currently writing a ‘Scotch
Suite’: the excellent American
jazz trombonist and bandleader Darren
Kramer... |
Whiskyfun:
Darren, tell us briefly about what
you do, music-wise.
Darren
Kramer: I am a
full-time, professional, freelance
trombonist, clinician and adjudicator
throughout the USA and I also lead
my own world-class group, DKO, in
international festivals, concerts
and clinics. I am also the Jazz Trombone
Instructor at the University of Denver.
I graduated from the University of
Miami and moved to New York City where
I toured with Matchbox Twenty, Tom
Jones, Tommy Dorsey Orchestra and
Duke Ellington's Sophisticated Ladies.
I have also made national television
appearances on The Tonight Show with
Jay Leno and The Late Show with David
Letterman. I am also an accomplished
composer/arranger of many styles which
can be heard on my three self-produced
CDs described as "Fresh, Innovative
Funk" by Grammy Award-winning
saxophonist Michael Brecker. |
WF:
Wow! And which other
musicians did you play with?
Darren:
Most recently
I have performed/recorded with world-renowned
jazz artists Michael Brecker, Rick
Margitza and Eric Marienthal. I have
toured internationally with the bands
I mentioned before. I have also performed
with many highly acclaimed musicians
such as Dizzy Gillespie, Randy Brecker,
Bob Mintzer, Natalie Cole, The Temptations,
Barry Manilow, etc. |
WF:
And which are your
other favourite artistes?
Darren:
I am a huge fan
of most styles of music but some of
my jazz favourites would have to be
Michael Brecker, Pat Metheny, John
Scofield and Chick Corea. My favorite
pop/rock artists are Sting, Prince,
Peter Gabriel and Roger Waters. |
WF:
So, which are your
current projects?
Darren:
My most current
project is an additional configuration
to DKO and is called the DKO Electric
Quartet which features “Electric
Horns” and B3 Organ. I am focusing
on my long time interest in using
electronic effects on my trombone.
I am actually writing a “Scotch
Suite” for my new DKO Electric
Quartet. I have two movements already
finished and they are entitled “The
Hollow Where The Mill Is” (Lagavulin)
and “Obi-Wan KenOBAN”
(Oban). My most recent recording is
called “In The Now” and
features DKO performing over 70-min
of original Funk, Jazz & Latin
and includes special guest Michael
Brecker, Rick Margitza and Eric Marienthal. |
WF:
Great, I liked Quench!
as well (especially the 'Il fait très,
très chaud' part!). But let’s
talk about whisky. When did you start
enjoying it? Are there any musical
memories you particularly associate
with that moment?
Darren:
I believe around
1999 when I was touring with Tom Jones
in Europe. We played a scotch tasting
event in Holland and I found it both
interesting and tasty! |
WF:
What’s your
most memorable whisky?
Darren:
Probably “Glenmorangie
10yr”. While touring with Tom
Jones, we had a day off in Sweden
and were treated to a nice boat ride
on a secluded lake. On the return
trip, the staff broke out several
bottles and I really enjoyed it….
the taste and the experience. Upon
returning to the hotel, several of
us took part in a rousing game of
night volleyball, which was quite
amusing! |
WF:
Do you have one, or
several favourite whiskies?
Darren:
Oh definitely
several. Scotch is like music…it’s
very difficult to pick a favorite
brand. Although I do think I have
narrowed it down to about 7 over the
last 5 years or so. Lagavulin, Oban,
Macallan 18, Macallan “Cask
Strength”, Talisker, Laphroaig,
Bowmore (Dawn), Glenmorangie “Port
Wood”… |
WF:
And are there whiskies
you don’t like?
Darren:
Not really but
I don’t seem to particularly
like the thinner, lighter scotches
(i.e. Lowland). But hey, I certainly
wouldn’t refuse one or pour
it down the sink! I’m just a
fan of deep, rich, expensive tastes
like Islay scotch, Cabernet or Shiraz,
Cuban cigars, filet mignon, chocolate
cream pie, etc!!! |
WF:
Music and whisky are
often though of as being male preserves.
Should girls play guitars, should
girls drink whisky?
Darren:
Heck yeah! Although
I must admit I haven’t met very
many women who enjoy scotch. It seems
to be too intense for them. Music
is definitely a non-gender, non-ethnic
discriminator. |
WF:
In some ways you could
argue that tasting a whisky is similar
to listening to a piece of music –
you deconstruct the two in the same
way? Care to comment?
Darren:
Yes, exactly.
That’s why I decided to write
my new “Scotch Suite”.
The first movement is dedicated to
Lagavulin (my favourite scotch) and
I believe it musically represents
what happens to me when I drink Lagavulin.
1. Slow, sophisticated beginning
2. Builds in intensity and smoky flavor
3. Multiple experiences occur throughout
drink/song.
4. Finishes with an incredible rush
of adrenaline and excitement (Bluesy
climax in my piece). |
WF:
Darren, when will
we be allowed to have a listen to
your ‘Scotch Suite?’
Darren:
DKO website very
soon!… and hopefully soon at
a scotch tasting near you! That would
be nice to serve the scotch of each
movement and have members write down
their thoughts, feelings, tastes of
the scotch, etc while we played…
then do a Q/A session afterwards. |
WF:
Do you mean you plan
to do gigs at tasting sessions? Distilleries???
Darren:
Absolutely! All
we need is an invitation! DKO is a
very special group of full-time professional
musicians who love music and whisky.
We would be honored and very pleased
to provide the highest quality jazz/funk
at any tasting or distilleries. We
are currently available for bookings
thru our website and incidentally,
my new "Scotch Suite" should
be completed within a few weeks. As
I told you before, I have two "movements"
complete and plan on writing three
more by end of April. |
WF:
Fantastic, and maybe
you could even jam with some bagpipers!
By the way, I once heard an eminent
whisky professional say that he tasted
whisky in colours. Do you taste whisky
in music?
Darren:
Yes, I think you
could say that.
Lagavulin – sophisticated, classy
jazz with a satisfying finish…
Oban – faster, more exciting
piece…
Macallan 18 – raw, emotional
piece with spunk…
Macallan “Cask Strength”
– definitely the most bang for
your buck… fun, fast tune!
Talisker – down-home funky tune
with energy…
Laphroaig – mysterious, earthy
song with dark layers… |
WF:
If your favourite
whisky was a piece of music what would
it be, if it was a musical instrument
what would it be?
Darren:
Instrument? Definitely
“Electric Trombone”!!! |
WF:
There is a famous
passage in a book written in the 1930s
(Aneas Macdonald) where the author
compares different styles of whisky
to different sections of an orchestra
– how would you see that working
in a jazz band?
Darren:
If I had to give
a quick opinion:
Vocalists - Lowland
Horn Section - Islay
Rhythm Section - Highland |
WF:
Do you have a favourite
piece of music to drink whisky with,
or better still, desert island dram,
desert island disc?
Darren:
Again, favourites
are hard to decipher. But here goes…
Drinking Whisky: Miles Davis –
Most any album… esp “Kind
of Blue“, “Fri night at
Blackhawk“, “Live in Stockholm“.
John Coltrane – “w/Johnny
Hartman”, “Ballads”
Desert Island: Pat Metheny “As
Wichita Falls…”, “Secret
Story”. Mahler Sym 3, 5 or 9.
Eric Whitacre: “A Cappella Vocal
Works”. Roger Waters: “Amused
to Death” |
WF:
Everyone thinks of
Jack Daniels as being the great rock
and roll whisky – why not Scotch?
Darren:
Don’t know,
probably because Van Halen outwardly
drank so much of it. I love Van Halen.
Also, bourbon/mash does seem to have
a harder edge which might be better
suited for crazy rock events. I do
enjoy bourbon as well… Blanton’s,
Bookers, Maker’s Mark, Wild
Turkey… I’ve certainly
chosen scotch over whisky at many
rock concerts I’ve attended
recently – Prince, Sting, Peter
Gabriel. Chick Corea (not rock I know
but I just drank Macallan 12yr at
his recent concert in Boulder CO!) |
WF:
And if it was Scotch,
can you think of which brand? What
would be the Scotch equivalent of
rappers drinking Cristal?
Darren:
Dewar's? J&B?
Glenlivet? (no offense intended!) |
Thank
you very much, Darren! No wonder
you've got pieces such as 'Critical
density', 'Intangible attraction',
'Signing for a taste', 'Give no
strength' or 'Keep it closed' on
your CD's ;-).
Links of interest:
Darren
Kramer's official website
Page
where your can listen to a part
of the 'Scotch Suite' (not labelled
as such)
Darren's 'celebs'
page - the guy on the 12th picture
rings a bell...
Lots of great music by Darren and
DKO on iTunes music store. |
TASTING
- ANOTHER TRIO OF GREAT PORT ELLENS |
|
Port
Ellen 1979/2006 (55.3%, M&H Cask
Selection for Whisky Live Belgium,
refill sherry, 150 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: really powerful
but not overpowering, starting on
a clean and sharp mix of coffee and
peat. Very ‘natural’,
rather close to the 1978 Rare Malt
in style. Quite medicinal at first,
with lots of iodine and whiffs of
wet kelp and oysters, switching then
to something farmier (wet hay). Very
little tary or rubbery notes –
if any. Hints of fresh butter and
dairy cream, grass, a little incense…
This one is extremely clean and full
of youth, probably from a not too
active cask, which is good news if
you like that style like I do. No
traces of sherry as far as I’m
concerned. What we’d call ‘pure
Islay’. |
Mouth:
wow, it’s really full-bodied
but, again, not aggressive at all
because we do have an enjoyable sweetness
rounding out the peat. Quite some
lemon sweets, candied lemon zests,
smoked tea and gentian spirit…
Notes of propolis and mastic flavoured
Turkish delights. Also quite some
liquorice and pepper, with something
salty that reminds us that it’s
a maritime whisky. Very, very good!
The finish is medium long, very balanced
and hugely satisfying, on wax and
lemon plus, of course, peat. In short,
it’s a beautiful expression
of Port Ellen, very natural, with
little wood – or wine - influence.
Classy, one to try if you want to
taste just a ‘Port Ellen’.
I loved it. 92 points. |
Port
Ellen 27 yo 1978/2006 (55.3%, Douglas
Laing Platinum, bourbon, 375 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: wow, this
one is extremely medicinal, starting
on bandages, iodine, hints of camphor,
embrocations… It’s also
a little buttery, with unusual notes
of vanilla crème and violets
(unusual in Port Ellen, of course).
It gets then very, very maritime,
with every coastal smells you can
imagine (sea breeze, sea spray, shells,
seaweed etc.). We have also some great
farmy notes, as well as quite some
marzipan, wood smoke, very fresh walnuts.
Maybe it’s a tad less clean
than the M&H, but it’s also
a little more demonstrative and less
austere. Hard to tell you which one
I prefer, for the moment. |
|
Mouth:
yes, it is superb! Again it’s
a little wider, bolder, saltier and
maybe more civilized at the same time.
Lots of tea, all sorts of infusions
and resin flavoured sweets, fir liqueur.
The balance is remarkable, making
this one a very drinkable peat monster.
Lots of liquorice as well, getting
very earthy… Really excellent!
The finish is a little longer than
the M&H’s, but offers very
similar sensations. It’s just
impossible to decide between both
versions, so it’s going to be
92 points as well.
Now, maybe the next one will win?... |
Port
Ellen 25 yo 1979/2005 (57.1%, Douglas
Laing Platinum for Potstill Austria,
302 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: ah, now we
have an even more austere Port Ellen,
it appears. Much more discrete, even
than the M&H’s start, sort
of closed. Much grassier, less maritime,
less farmy, less resinous… Well,
maybe I should have tasted this one
as #1, but it’s also the most
powerful… Okay, there is something
farmy, in fact, as well as nice notes
of fresh almonds and a little paraffin
and smoke but that’s almost
all. Let’s see whether the palate
is more expressive… Mouth: oh
yes, indeed, much more happening now!
It’s quite close to the 1978
in style, very bold, with lots of
crystallized citrus fruits, herbal
teas, something very resinous, liquoricy…
Lots of oomph in there but it’s
very drinkable. Probably not overly
complex but extremely coherent. Ah,
simple, peaty pleasures… The
finish is probably the longest of
all, rather coating, on resin and
peat plus quite some sweetness. Very,
very good again, too bad the nose
was a little silent - but again, it
had a tricky place after the two other
‘gentle monsters’ we just
had. Great whisky anyway. 89
points. |
|
March
27, 2006 |
|
|
CONCERT
REVIEW by Nick Morgan
LINDA LEWIS AND HER BAND Pizza
on the Park, London, March 18th 2006
|
Linda Lewis'
first LP (1971) |
When
I heard the words “welcome
to our little knees-up” I
confess I panicked. Surely not Chas
and Dave again? But no worries,
this was chirpy Cockney Sparrow
Linda
Lewis, of 1970s folky
soulish disco crossover fame, in
the plush (well – at least
in the dark) and slightly posh Pizza
in the Park in London’s rather
knobby Knightsbridge, performing
for the most part songs from her
‘comeback’ album, itself
a live recording (Live in Old Smokey)
made at Ronnie Scott’s, and
her extensive back catalogue. Linda
‘went’ after her hits
‘Rock-a-doodle-doo’
and ‘It’s in his kiss’
in 1973 and 1975 respectively, and
her last UK chart appearance in
1979. |
Recording
only periodically thereafter (‘though
she has a gold-plated list of session
work) she went big in Japan –
almost Spinal Tap style - in the late
90s and is clearly now making a concerted
attempt to re-stake a larger claim
to fame. However not all the audience
are here to see the right Linda Lewis
– the two groping ladies sharing
the shadowy and intimate table behind
us keep on shouting for her to sing
‘Loving you’, whilst the
American honeymoon couple on the other
side of the stage are impatiently
waiting for her to sing ‘Love
and affection’. Fame? Linda,
Minnie and Joan, eat your hearts out. |
And
let’s talk about the audience.
Well they must be here for Linda because
to be frank you wouldn’t come
here for the food. One suspects that,
pizzas apart, the kitchen has something
of the microwave about it (even the
salads). And the pizzas? Well you
said you didn’t have them in
France yet Serge, but now I know you
have very nice pissaladiere. Unfortunateley
ours were nowhere near as good as
those tasty little treats. The venue
is close by the hyper-posh Lanesborough
Hotel, and a number of other similarly
overpriced gaffs, so it’s an
obvious draw for tourists and out
of towners, who probably make up half
the ample crowd. |
|
They’re
the ones wearing the Christmas present
jumpers and black trouser suits, with
that look of permanent distrust about
them, as if they’re expecting
the waiters (who, along with waitresses,
are quite excellent) to stab them
in the back, steal their wallets and
handbags, and kidnap their husbands
or wives at any moment. They also
look unaccountably disconsolate (maybe
because they’ve just realised
that Linda Lewis isn’t Minnie,
or Joan), but by the second set as
the wine (good and reasonable wine
list) kicks in and Ms Lewis’s
very genuine and disarming charm wins
them over, everyone gets pretty mellow.
Both the groping ladies and the honeymooners
are close to coupling by the end of
the night, whilst adjacent tables
of Australians and Americans have
struck up a strange and very loud
sort of entente cordiale. The obsessive
fan with the crazed check jacket is
in the Gents sharing stories with
anyone who will listen about fantastic
e-bay triumphs searching for Linda
memorabilia (“I even got a pair
of her knickers”). In the midst
of this touristic League of Nations
there are also clearly a lot of Linda’s
extended ‘family’ –
here to celebrate the new album release
– and if it’s not exactly
a who’s who of the London seventies
scene that Ms Lewis was such a part
of (which it ain’t) then it’s
certainly a group of whom some, like
Linda, have survivor written all over
them. |
|
Linda’s
a nice soul, wears her heart on her
sleeve (or in her songs) and isn’t
afraid to share her vulnerability
with her audience. She’s got
no side, and easily takes us into
her confidence. She’s been through
the mill a bit since her meteoric
rise to fame in the company of her
boyfriend and later husband, Family
member Jim Cregan (actually he’s
got a rock CV as long as your arm,
but that’s another story). He’s
the one she sings about in Fathoms,
an old song but one of the nicer ones
from the first set. Of course he’s
an ex – and we’re told
there have been a number since. “I
went out with him for two hours”
she confides of Cat Stevens, before
singing his ‘Schoolyard’
– and she doesn’t quite
explain how she’s playing a
guitar she’s had for 40 years,
but which once belonged to Eric Clapton’s
“girlfriend”. “She’s
dead now, but I’ve still got
it. Gosh – that makes me sound
like a real cow doesn’t it?”.
Nor does she care for Andrew Lloyd
Webber, and found working with Mike
Batt “the worst experience of
my life”. |
Ms
Lewis’s most recent and apparently
reticent husband is in the audience,
and there’s a song written for
him, the pleasant enough ‘Don’t
do don’t’; “he hasn’t
got long to go,” we’re
told. |
Well you can tell from all this that
it’s a pleasant and very friendly
sort of evening, if not a little lightweight.
Ms Lewis has not lost her trademark
high pitched voice, nor her ability
to use it – even if she does
start singing a little flat and ends
chatting with friends, and nicely
with the Photographer (“I could
see your lovely headscarf from the
stage”), over a pint of wine
and constant cigarettes. She has a
band who are really working for her,
but with sadly limited material; many
of the tunes sound as if they could
merge seamlessly and effortlessly
into ‘The road to Sante Fe’
and go all the way along the middle
of it to Radio Twoland. There’s
a lingering seventies feel of ‘love
and peace, black and white’
about the songs (old and new) that
sounds woefully misplaced in the callous
and cynical first decade of the twenty-first
century. I trawled out an old review
of her, supporting Cat Stevens, when
the reviewer wrote that Ms Lewis couldn’t
decide if she was Joni Mitchell or
Aretha Franklin. |
Tonight
it’s mostly Aretha, and occasionally
Aretha meets Shirley Bassey, which
is a shame, for the one Joni moment
we get at the start of the first half,
‘Light years away’ and
‘Keep a wish’ is quite
delightful and has the audience spellbound.
I could have hugged her it was so
good (it almost made the pizza worth
it), and listened to it all night.
I puzzled that Ms Lewis’ only
fault seemed to be that she was a
singer bereft of a song - or The Song
that would put her back on the map.
Never mind – she’s a thoroughly
engaging personality on stage, a good
live act to catch, and you could always
lash out on ‘Live in Old Smokey’,
or if you’re feeling nostalgic
one of her many ‘greatest hits’
compilations. But just remember –
it’s Linda, not Minnie, or Joan.
- Nick Morgan (concert photographs
by Kate, pizza by Nick) |
|
Many
thanks Nick - and nor Linda
Gail!. As for pizzas, alas,
we do have all sorts of providers
as well over here but my Italian
friends say they're insults to their
country of origin. It seems to be
a story about American pizza vs
Italian pizza but I must confess
I don't know much about that very
topic - except that 'pizzas' are
the quickest way of making money
in the 'restaurant' business. Now,
here, if you ever ask guys willing
to go have some 'are you going to
a restaurant?' they'll answer 'no,
we're going to a pizzeria', so maybe
everything isn't lost yet. And by
the way, great picture! Do you know
Daniel
Spoerri? And as for Linda Lewis,
we could find this old track, Baby
I'm yours.mp3. Wait, could it
rather be Barbara Lewis??? I mean
this
one, not that
one? Phew, okay, I'll order
Linda
Lewis' new CD asap! |
TASTING
- TWO EXCELLENT GLENUGIES |
|
Glenugie
18 yo 1959/1977 (80° proof, Cadenhead
dumpy)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: rather discreet
at very first nosing, with just notes
of wet stone and freshly cut apple,
but a superb sharpness and lots of
purity. Something is going to happen,
we know that… Indeed, we notice
a full basket of citrus fruits coming…
First something rather sharp again
(grapefruits, lemons), then something
sweeter (tangerines, citrons) and
finally a whole pitcher of freshly
squeezed, sun-ripened oranges. Wow! |
What’s
stunning is that it doesn’t
get ‘sweetish’ at all,
thanks to the superb notes of linseed
oil, ashes and celery that counterbalance
that explosive fruitiness. And then
we have quite some very elegant peat,
notes of old books, paraffin, a little
natural varnish (nothing chemical
here) and maybe whiffs of gasoline.
And how clean it is! Perfect! Mouth:
wow, it didn’t loose one single
ounce of power, it appears. Very nervous,
invading, on full orange and lemon
marmalade mode… Probably less
complex than on the nose, but not
less thrilling, except that there’s
something slightly too drying in the
background (papery). It develops on
spices (lots of pepper and nutmeg),
cocoa, candy sugar, liquorice stick,
getting almost hot. Incredible! And
the finish is very long, very compact
and greatly balanced, on lemon and
pepper… What a beast! (1959
was a fabulous year for all French
wines – was it the same considering
Scotch whisky?) Anyway, 93
points for this baby. It
could have been 95, had it been just
a tad less drying (and thanks,
Bert) |
Glenugie
25 yo 1979/2005 (50%, Douglas Laing
OMC, 291 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: right, it’s
probably not very fair to taste this
one after that stunning old Cadenhead,
but it’s even more discreet
at first nosing, almost closed. Let’s
hope we’ll have a similar development…
… … Yes, something’s
happening, but it’s very different,
with some bold farmy aromas starting
to rush to your nostrils. We have
the usual wet hay but also horse dung,
cow stable, all sorts of wet animals
(except aquatic ones). It keeps developing
on very mineral notes such as cold
ashes and wet chalk, plus maybe hints
of milk and beer… A very interesting,
very organic nose. Mouth: as often,
the palate is sweeter and rounder,
but doesn’t lack body, and even
nervousness. Quite astonishingly,
it’s very similar to the old
Cadenhead’s, with lots of lemon
marmalade, getting quite grassy and
spicy. Notes of chocolate and herb
liqueur, apple pie… Lots of
oomph in there! Maybe it’s got
a little less ‘rectitude’
but other than that, it’s almost
as enjoyable as the Cadenhead. The
finish is very long, very satisfying,
on lemon marmalade again, getting
maybe just a tad sugary but let’s
not quibble over that. Okay, this
one hasn’t got the older one’s
grandeur, but no doubt it’s
a very, very good Glenugie as well.
89 points. |
|
March
26, 2006 |
|
|
TASTING
- TWO TULLIBARDINES |
|
Tullibardine
15 yo 1989/2004 (49.8%, Hart Bros)
Colour: white wine. Nose: starts quite
expressively but it seems to be very
immature, with quite some feinty,
spirity, mashy aromas. Something very
rubbery that can’t come from
the cask, notes of hot metal, porridge,
cooked yoghurt and soaked grains.
Also whiffs of lavender and toasted
bread, newly cut grass… It’s
quite rough but not totally unpleasant,
far from that. |
Mouth:
sweet and very perfumy (diluted Cologne?),
with something frankly offbeat (overcooked
cereals, burnt cake and milk…)
Also quite some rubber again, bitter
fruits… Hard to enjoy, I’m
afraid, and the finish is quite long
but even rubberier and bitterer. Too
bad. 65 points. |
Tullibardine
33 yo 1972/2006 (43.1%, Dewar Rattray,
cask #2597)
Colour: yellow gold. Nose: we’re
on another planet now, this one starting
just like a sweet wine (Sauterne).
Amazing! It’s much more ‘Sauternish’
than any Sauterne-finished whisky
I could taste! Heavy notes of very
ripe pineapples, mirabelle plums,
apricots, going on with strawberries
and oriental pastries. It’s
very demonstrative, and keeps developing
on rose jelly, hints of camphor, white
chocolate and honey, with also a little
smoke, toasted brioche and dried figs.
Almost decadent! Mouth: the attack
isn’t too bold but the malt
is in no way tired or over the hill.
It just goes on in the same vein as
the nose (same fruits) but with, as
expected, lots of tannins, white pepper,
cocoa and nutmeg. Sure it’s
a little drying and cardboardy but
as the great fruity notes are still
here, the whole remains most enjoyable.
The finish is unexpectedly long, sweet
but frankly drying now, with something
slightly rubbery… Probably this
Tullibardine’s weakest part.
But again, the whole is very pleasant,
especially that Sauterne-like nose.
87 points. |
MUSIC
– It's Sunday,
we go classical with one of the
greatests, Edita
Gruberova, singing
Bellini's Qui
la voce.mp3 (from I Puritani).
Charming and maybe even... funny!
(imagine the standing ovation at
the end!) Please buy Mademoiselle
Gruberova's records and go to her
concerts! |
|
|
March
25, 2006 |
|
|
TASTING
- TWO GLEN SCOTIAS |
Glen
Scotia 28 yo 1975 (46%, Murray McDavid
Mission, 498 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: a super attack,
quite clean, on fresh butter and freshly
cut hay, developing on lots of ripe
strawberries, bubble-gum and marshmallows.
Uncomplicated and really playful at
28yo, a malt that puts you in a good
mood just like that. Yippee! Mouth:
rather different, a little caramelized
and nicely bitter, with quite some
rubber. Gets very salty after a while
(salted butter caramel) – rather
unusual. Keeps developing on burnt
herbs, salted liquorice and dark toffee,
with a nice dryness towards the finish,
the latter being quite long. An interesting
case of nose and mouth going in two
very different directions, but as
both are very nice, I feel this Glen
Scotia is still worth 88 points. |
|
|
Glen
Scotia 12 yo (40%, OB, 2005)
Colour: gold. Nose: very interesting
at first nosing, with quite some smoke
and peat and notes of old books (ah,
culture!), leather and Virginia tobacco.
We have also hints of paraffin and
old rancio, as well as a little diesel
oil. A very nice nose indeed, with
much more personality than expected.
Mouth: a rather sweet, but ‘resolute’
attack, with again quite some smoke
and wax, old fortified wine (although
I’m quite sure there’s
very little sherry if any), resin…
Nice vivacity, and the finish is rather
long and always quite smoky. Very
interesting, I’d say. Glen Scotia
can be classy, no doubt. 83
points. |
MUSIC
– JAZZ - Heavily
recommended listening - Yes, long
time no posting about Charlie
Parker, so let's have
a little Moose
the Mooche.mp3 (it's on 'Bird
Symbol') with Miles Davis on trumpet,
Dodo Marmarosa on piano and Lucky
Thompson on tenor. Just fab! (via
K-Channel) |
|
|
March
24, 2006 |
|
|
TASTING
- TWO 1968 CAPERDONICHS |
|
Caperdonich
1968/2004 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail’s
Connoisseur’s Choice)
Colour: pure gold. Nose: this one
starts quite expressively despite
the low A.B.V., on notes of rather
dry sherry, wax and peat. Of course
it’s not an Islayer but the
peat is very obvious here, as well
as quite some mint, dried eucalyptus
leaves, resins and eucalyptus (hinds
ov Bicks BaboRub, bah…) More
than just hints, in fact, because
it really starts to smell just like
Vicks VapoRub indeed after a few minutes,
although we do also have notes of
burnt wood, ashes, baked raisins and
hints of smoked ham. A very, very
nice nose, showing no sign of over-ageing
at more than 35. |
Mouth:
excellent news, the palate isn’t
tired either, but very dry –
in a nice way. Lots of black toffee,
Corinth raisins, old rum, bitter chocolate
(loads of bitter chocolate) and mint,
getting then quite cardboardy but
also camphory again (cough syrup)
and rather smoky. Most enjoyable if
you’re into this kind of ‘sombre’
whisky. Also a little kirsch. The
finish isn’t too long but balanced,
on raisins and chocolate, getting
just a little too drying. A very enjoyable
old Caperdonich, nevertheless. 87
points. |
Caperdonich
1968/2006 (49.5%, M&H Cask Selection,
131 bottles)
A brand new bottling by Belgium’s
Mario and Hubert and we’ve already
heard wonders about it. Now, ‘it’s
not because many say the same thing
that they’re right’, said
French humorist Coluche, so let’s
find out by ourselves… Colour:
gold–amber. Nose: oh, we do
have something special indeed here.
Lots of cough syrup again and furniture
polish at very first nosing, even
hints of varnish but those are soon
to disappear, as often. We have then
some big, bold notes of marzipan and
argan oil (if you don’t know
argan oil, imagine a blend of olive
oil and hazelnut oil) and quite some
old turpentine. There’s probably
some hints of peat again… And
then this Caperdonich slowly switches
to chocolate and toffee, with always
something delicately minty (better
than ‘After Eight’). And
then there’s the forest, with
big notes of moss and fresh mushrooms,
pine needles, wet dead leaves…
And finally the balsamic vinegar and
even black truffles… It’s
just superb indeed - the majority
was right, for once! ;-) Mouth: aha,
it starts with a little difficulty
again (it’s a hard sell!) on
something bitterly rubbery, but again,
those hard notes are soon to vanish
and let the sherry express itself.
Superbly dry but not austere, tannic
but not drying, spicy but not biting,
it’s all balance again. And
we have lots of bitter oranges, strong
unsugared espresso, something resinous,
slightly burnt raisins, cooked fruits,
very old rum… Well, I guess
you get the picture. Oh, yes, and
lots of chocolate! And the finish
is long, balanced, dry, slightly minty
and very chocolaty again. An excellent,
elegant, old, rather dark sherry (despite
the fact that it was ‘just’
a refill hogshead - was it also 'sherry-treated'?).
92 points. |
PETE
McPEAT AND JACK WASHBACK |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening - Right, I can see you
frowning, especially because of
the arrangements (ha, the drumming,
and ha, the synths!), but I swear
I do like Alvin
Lee's The
bluest blues.mp3 (from Alvin
Lee's 1995 album '1994' - !?!).
Don't we all love our old guitar
heroes? And yes, I'll have another
sangria... Please buy Mr Lee's music!
(via Mako's
rock scene). |
|
|
March
23, 2006 |
|
|
TASTING
- TWO 'PURE COLUMN STILL' MALTS |
|
Glenisla
28 yo 1977/2006 (48.6%, Signatory,
hogshead #19598, 274 bottles)
A premiere by Signatory! Glenisla
was an experimental peated malt distilled
at Glen Keith, like Craigduff, and
I believe, but I’m not sure,
that instead of the usual pot stills,
they used the column stills that had
just been installed by Chivas at the
time. Let’s taste it! |
Colour:
gold – yellow. Nose: a rather
fragrant start, on lots of vanilla
crème, fudge and orange flowers.
Baklava? It’s quite honeyed
and flowery (yellow flowers, pollen)
but not exactly peated, I must say.
We do have faint whiffs of peat like
in some of the last Broras (it’s
quite similar in fact) as well as
ashy notes and something grassy (newly
cut grass, vase water)… And
then it finally switches to bubblegummy,
marshmallow-like notes as well as
well ripe pears. Not particularly
interesting but not unpleasant at
all – And I guess ‘it’
has to happen in your head anyway
when you get the opportunity to taste
such a rare whisky. Mouth: oh, now
it’s very different from most
malts we know, and quite frankly,
it tastes like a grain whisky. The
attack is rather hot and even quite
expressive (sweetness, vanilla, cake,
marshmallows again, pears) but the
whole sort of falls apart quite suddenly,
leaving just a little taste of alcohol
on the back of your tongue and quite
some tannins. Strange, very strange,
not unlike a caramelized vodka if
you see what I mean… And the
finish is, you guessed it, very short,
with maybe just a quarter of a pinch
of salt. Right, the nose was rather
interesting but I think the palate
is really a simple grain whisky’s,
not unlike Black Barrel’s. Now,
we must thank Signatory anyway for
having brought this rare malt to the
market (and for having priced it quite
moderately) – but no wonder
Glenisla was so rare. And pssst, Signatory’s
Craigduffs are so much better! 75
points, still. |
Mosstowie
26 yo 1979/2006 (52.8%, Signatory,
bourbon cask #12756, 274 bottles)
Again a malt distilled at a ‘normal’
distillery (Miltonduff), but using
column stills. Mosstovie is a little
more common, though. Does that mean
it’s better? Let’s see…
Colour: straw. Nose: this one starts
much rounder, on even more vanilla,
fudge and pastries, with also quite
some interesting flowery notes (violets,
lavender, maybe hints of peonies).
What’s funny is that we do have
more peat here – even if it’s
very, very discreet, with notes of
‘clean’ wet dog, sugared
mint flavoured tea, hay, dead leaves…
And then quite some cooked turnips,
mushrooms, spearmint, plus something
slightly ashy again… An interesting
malt. Mouth: much hotter and spicier
than the Glenisla, and quite tannic.
Quite some pepper, mint again, chocolate,
nutmeg and maybe a little cardboard,
the whole getting then a little drying
–although there’s a little
fruit such as tinned pineapples. Lots
of ginger, at that. The finish is
rather long, mustardy, peppery and
slightly sugarish at the same time.
In short, a hot Mosstowie –
probably a good occasion to taste
a good column-distilled Scotch single
malt if you didn’t already.
83 points. |
|
BANG!
- Quite a few maniacs attended Whisky
Live Belgium in Verviers last weekend.
It was really excellent and most
friendly, and the highlights were
probably the two very revealing
blending competitions with John
Glaser and Richard Patterson, which
we all enjoyed a lot. What’s
sure is that coming up with a drinkable
blend is very tricky - as you’ll
find out by rolling your mouse over
Olivier, Martine or yours truly’s
heads - but if you ever have the
opportunity to participate in such
an experiment, don’t miss
it! |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening - You may think Shelby
Lynne's music is too
commercial and maybe I'll agree, but
she's still a much talented singer
and the arrangements are extremely
beautiful on Leavin'.mp3,
don't you think? So, please buy her
soulful music! |
|
|
March
22, 2006 |
|
|
|
TASTING
- THREE INDIE BOWMORES |
Bowmore
1993 (44%, Strathblair Collection,
2004)
Colour white wine. Nose: aha, lots
of vivacity, and lots of peat in there.
Very fresh, smoky, mashy and maritime,
with whiffs of hot coffee and toasted
cake. Maybe it’s simple but
there isn’t one single offbeat
note - and no odd wood treatments
(that often work so weirdly with a
classic beauty such as a ‘natural’
Bowmore). Lots of iodine, seaweed,
breeze, then hints of gentian spirit
(are you reading this, Juergen?) ashes
and maybe a little mustard…
Very good even if, again, simple.
Ah, nature! Mouth: imagine a smoked
grapefruit juice, mixed with some
cold, un-sugared tea and you get the
picture. Not much development after
that but I like this kind of compactness
and ‘straight-to-the-point-ness’.
The finish is rather long, smoky,
peaty, getting also a little spicy
(cardamom and pepper) and maybe a
tad dusty. A good one, definitely.
86 points. |
Bowmore
11 yo 1991/2002 (46%, Hart Bros Finest
Collection)
Colour: white wine. Nose: this one
is rather different, probably less
‘clean and natural’. Some
rather heady smells of wet dog mixed
with hot butter and fudge (poor dog!),
hay, pu erh tea, semi-dried kelp,
very, very organic. It gets then sort
of ‘chemical’ (lyophilized
lemon juice, icing sugar) with also
notes of tar, rubber band. It’s
much more ‘perverse’ than
the Strathblair, but I must confess
I like it just as much. Hints of tangerine
peel… Mouth: a, now it’s
frankly better. Bolder, more complex,
with a superb sweetness mixed with
tons of rather sharp citrusy notes,
smoke and a pinch of salt. Lots of
body! There’s also a little
cake, buttered caramel and fudge again,
smoked tea, marzipan and mastic…
And more and more salt on your lips.
Really excellent, and the finish is
very long and very impregnating, with
quite some liquorice. Great, a superb
young Bowmore again, with no unnecessary
make-up! 88 points. |
Bowmore
16 yo 1989/2005 (53.4%, Dewar Rattray,
sherry cask #1090, 262 bottles)
Couleur: pale straw. Nose: starts
very spirity and austere, with a profile
that’s very close to the Hart
Bros, just a little more spirity (pear
juice and coffee). Now, it’s
probably less ‘animal and organic’,
and more mineral and ashy. Notes of
Alka-Seltzer, rubbed lemon peel, newly
cut grass, fresh green beans…
We have then quite some fresh mint,
eucalyptus, maybe a little turpentine…
The development is much longer than
its younger siblings’, in fact.
Chalk, iron, ham, horse sweat…
Having said that, it’s maybe
less ‘pure pleasure’.
Let’s try to add a few drops
of water now: no further development
but no deterioration either. Maybe
just more marzipan. Mouth (neat):
lots of power, lots of body and lots
of citrus. Crystallized tangerines,
orange juice, pink grapefruit, all
that mixed with a dash of icing sugar
that makes the whole very lively.
Keeps developing on big, bold notes
of grappa (or better, marc de gewürztraminer),
pear spirit, but also something very
vegetal, grassy (grapes clusters)
and, above all, lots of salt. Also
liquorice, lapsang souchong, something
quite resinous and waxy (waxed cardboard,
like they sometimes use for yoghurt?),
herbs (thyme and rosemary)…
With water: same, no further development
and no deterioration – maybe
just a little more sweetness. The
finish is long, balanced, on a great
sweetness and some very resinous and
peaty notes – and again something
like aspirin or Alka-Seltzer. Anyway,
an excellent recent Bowmore despite
the slightly disturbing notes of aspirin.
89 points. |
CRAZY
WHISKY ADS - THE AD WAR WITH MALTMADNESS
GOES ON... |
|
Good,
after Johannes' 'genuine fake ad'
for Johnny Walker Red Label (on maltmadness)
I thought I should publish these extremely
rare ads that ran in the famous magazine
Jamaica Gleaner only twice, I believe
(around 1973 - or was it 1972?). Johannes,
your turn if you dare... |
|
March
21, 2006 |
|
|
Mouth:
it’s slightly rounder but offers
a rather bold mouth feel, with a sharp,
very grassy, almost bitter attack.
Develops on lots of tea (strong tea),
quite some tannins, oak, apple skin
again and something very earthy (smoked
tea, ginseng powder). The finish is
long but rather drying, almost making
your tongue stick to your palate,
with also hints of mint sweets and
a little salt. In short, this Teaninich
is sort of enjoyable indeed, despite
its roughness and dryness….
But you have to like dryness in your
malt. If it was music: maybe a free
piece by Gato Barbieri (not the easy,
Latin ones). 82 points. |
Teaninich
34 yo 1971/2006 (44.7%, JWWW Auld
Distillers, Bourbon cask, 204 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: oh, now we’re
on another planet. We do have these
very fruity, but slightly austere
notes (I got that in an old Cadenhead
dumpy), like grapefruit again, citron,
rubbed orange peel and then something
very nicely mineral (austerity again!)
Wet chalk, limestone, hints of moist
plaster, gin… And then it gets
quite farmy, with something peaty,
hay, ‘clean’ horse dung
– and also lots of herbs such
as chive, fresh coriander, parsley.
Hints of chocolate as well. Frankly,
it’s a superb nose, beautifully
balanced and with lots of presence.
Very, very ‘serious’.
An anti-made up malt? Mouth: it’s
very coherent, but maybe it’s
a little too austere now. Quite some
tannins right from the start, green
pepper, flour, bitter chocolate powder…
A certain lack of sweetness, like
in many very old malts. Don’t
get me wrong, it’s easily bearable
but you really have to love dryness.
The malt gets then grassy and vegetal,
rather bitter, peppery, with notes
of ultra-strong liquorice and strong
herb liqueur (it reminds me of Underberg,
do you know that?) And then, good
news we do have a little sweetness
coming through (a little caramel,
apple juice). But the whole remains
quite drying, just like the medium
long, but very ‘powdery’
finish. Very, very serious stuff indeed!
The nose was absolutely great but
maybe the palate is a bit tired…
It still deserves 87 points,
that is. Ah yes, music… Something
rough, ‘ancient’ and ‘dry’
but still rather ‘easy’,
like, yes, Steve Coleman’s ‘Transits’
(on ‘Myths, Modes And Means’) |
|
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening - Let's have a little
African music, shall we? Today it's
Kenya's superb singer Suzanna
Owi yo who does Kisumu
100.mp3. And it's excellently
produced! Please support all African
artists... |
|
March
20, 2006 |
|
|
TASTING
- TWO ARDBEGS (again...) |
Ardbeg
‘Still Young’ (56.2%,
OB, 2006)
This one has been already vatted but
not bottled. I didn’t like the
‘Very Young’ too much
(79), I thought it was much too simple
and rough but many aficionados loved
it. So, let’s see how these
first 1998 ‘Glenmo’ batches
behave after one more year in their
casks. Colour: white wine. Nose: yes,
it’s more complex than the ‘Very
Young’, obviously. It got more
maritime, with notes of oysters, lots
of white pepper and the phenols seem
to be much subtler. The farmy notes
are well here as well but, again,
I think they got subtler. And good
news, no big rubbery notes anymore,
even if there’s still quite
some ‘grainy’ tones (porridge
and such). Rather amazing progress
within one year, I think. |
|
Mouth:
a very sweet attack, just like with
the Very Young, but also some much
cleaner fruity notes (pears and apples)
and no disturbing feinty notes anymore.
The peat then takes off, together
with lots of pepper. The whole isn’t
perfectly ‘blended’ yet
but it got much pleasanter. The finish
is long and, again, nicely peppery.
I feel this ‘Still Young’
is now worth 83 points
in my books. How much for the possible
‘Still A Bit Young’ to
come next year? |
|
Ardbeg
1991/2005 (43%, McKillop's Choice)
Colour: white wine. Nose: wow, lots
of oomph in there despite the relatively
low A.B.V. It starts on lots of fresh
fruits such as gooseberries and apples
but some farmy kind of peat takes
control after a few seconds. Lots
of wet hay, dried kelp, muesli and
yoghurt sauce, smoked tea, with something
slightly meaty in the background (smoked
ham). Hints of fresh mushrooms. Not
extraordinarily complex but ‘pure
Ardbeg’, with no sulphury tones.
Mouth: rather dry and austere now,
much less fruity than expected (maybe
apple peel) but still quite balanced.
Lots of tea, herbs, spices, pepper,
green tannins… Not exactly complex
but enjoyable. Also lemon and grapefruit
zest as often, the whole getting a
little sweeter and a slightly camphory
and minty after a few minutes. The
finish is quite long, very ‘classically
Ardbeg’. A good, unexpectedly
full-bodied and drier (and less sweet)
alternative to the 10 yo OB. 84
points. |
MUSIC
AND WHISKY INTERVIEW
LUC BREWAEYS
It
seems that several famous Belgians
are ‘Lucs’, and that
many of them like whisky! Whether
that’s pure coincidence or
not, I don’t know, but the
fact that one of them, Luc
Brewaeys, composed music
pieces such as ‘Oban’,
‘Talisker’, ‘Knockando’,
‘Bowmore’ (a String
Quartet) or ‘Laphroaig’
(a symphony) is very troubling indeed…
|
|
‘Talisker’,
for instance, was composed in 1993
for the opening day of ‘Antwerp
Cultural Capital of Europe’,
and no less than 24,000 people attended
the four ‘premieres’!
Add to that the fact that Luc also
worked on pieces by Frank Zappa and
you’ll easily understand why
I needed to interview him quite desperately… |
Whiskyfun:
Luc, tell us briefly about what you
do, music-wise.
Luc
Brewaeys: I’m
a “modern-classical” composer. |
WF:
And which other musicians
are you playing with?
Luc:
I used to play
the piano, but now I do not play anymore.
I do -however- conduct regularly,
the Ensemble Champ d’Action
(Antwerp, Belgium) for new music,
the Bulgarian Radio Orchestra and
the Czech Chamber Philharmonic among
others. |
WF:
Which are your other
favourite artists?
Luc:
Many colleague
composers, such as Pierre Boulez,
Jonathan Harvey or Steve Reich. |
WF:
Which are your current
projects?
Luc:
Right now I am
composing a one-act-opera for the
Royal National Opera “La Monnaie
/ De Munt” in Brussels (Belgium).
|
WF:
When did you start
enjoying whisk(e)y? Are there any
musical memories you particularly
associate with that moment?
Luc:
I composed up
to now five pieces with “single
malt”-titles. I enjoyed my first
single malt some 20 years ago. I have
no real favourite, and I never (in
spite of the titles) linked any whisky
with any particular (musical) moment. |
WF:
What’s your
most memorable whisky?
Luc:
I have very good
memories of the Laphroaig cask strength. |
WF:
Any other whiskies
you like?
Luc:
I love the Lagavulin,
and like the Islay whiskies in general. |
WF:
Are there whiskies
you don’t like?
Luc:
Not really, I
don’t drink them… |
WF:
Music and whisky are
often though of as being male preserves.
Should girls play guitars, should
girls drink whisky?
Luc:
Actually, they
do (I know some)! |
WF:
In some ways you could
argue that tasting a whisky is similar
to listening to a piece of music –
you deconstruct the two in the same
way? Care to comment?
Luc:
I don’t
agree. Listening to music is (in the
best case) an experience that alters
your feeling of time, I don’t
think that whiskies (can) have the
same effect, unless you drink too
much of it! |
WF:
I once heard an eminent
whisky professional say that he tasted
whisky in colours. Do you taste whisky
in music?
Luc:
In a way I do,
but there are no “rules”.
Everything depends on the moment too. |
WF:
If your favourite
whisky was a piece of music what would
it be, if it was a musical instrument
what would it be?
Luc:
Well, look at
(or listen to) my “malt-pieces”! |
WF:
There is a famous
passage in a book written in the 1930s
(Aneas Macdonald) where the author
compares different styles of whisky
to different sections of an orchestra
– how would you see that working
in a jazz or rock band, or in a classical
orchestra?
Luc:
That’s so
personal, and -for me- has no defined
connotation, I mean that such a thing
could vary depending on the musical
material I use in a particular piece.
I’d rather say that different
taste-elements can be compared to
the different sections in an orchestra
or in a musical work. |
WF:
Do you have a favourite
piece of music to drink whisky with,
or better still, desert island dram,
desert island disc?
Luc:
I’d drink
a “Lagavulin” while listening
to a great orchestral piece by Jonathan
Harvey : “Madonna of Winter
and Spring”. |
WF:
Everyone thinks of
Jack Daniels as being the great rock
and roll whisky – why not Scotch?
Luc:
No idea, I’m
not into rock and roll!… |
Thank
you Luc!
Luc Brewaeys’ official website
is here.
Several very interesting CD’s
are available, such as the very
recent Debussy/Brewaeys (Preludes
books 1 and 2, Royal Flemish Philharmonic,
Talent
Records) or ‘An introduction
to Luc Brewaeys’, a double
CD including both ‘Oban’
and ‘Talisker’ (Megadisc)
– a short sample there.
As for concerts, you’ll be
able to go and listen to Luc’s
works in several cities this year:
Prague, Bruges, Rotterdam, Vienna,
Antwerp, New York… No less!
(Please check all venues on his
concert
page). Now, we missed ‘Talisker’
on Feb 24 at the Museum of Modern
Art in Gent… And we’ll
have to wait until April 2007 to
be able to listen to ‘Oban’
live! (in Gent again). Too bad! |
|
March
19, 2006 |
|
|
TASTING
– TWO 9 yo 'ITALIAN' CAOL ILAS |
Caol
Ila 9 yo 1991/2000 (46%, Dun Eideann
Italie, casks #3199/3203)
Colour: white wine.
Nose: quite powerful, expressive,
very fruity at first nosing. Lots
of apple juice, tinned pineapples
and rosewater, with the phenolic
notes taking off little by little
after a while. Something nicely
ashy, waxy, before it gets frankly
maritime, on fresh oysters, kelp…
And then we have quite some caramel,
fudge, cooked pears… All that
is very elegant and perfectly balanced.
A subtle, gentle yet uncomplicated
Islayer. |
|
Mouth:
it’s not exactly wild but certainly
a little rougher now. Quite some peat,
pepper and nutmeg, allspice, propolis,
developing on earthy, rooty notes
(ginseng)… Peppered apple pie
(?!), getting then quite grassy and
herbal, and also rather tannic (green
tannins, grape seeds). More and more
nervous and full-bodied, getting even
salty. The finish isn’t too
long but balanced and very ‘full’
– and very salty, with notes
of cooked celeriac. A very good young
Caol Ila! 85 points. |
Caol
Ila 1991/2000 (46%, Wilson & Morgan
Barrel Selection)
Colour: white wine. Nose: this one
is probably a little more discreet
and more austere, but maybe even more
elegant. Quite citric and mineral
like certain sauvignons blancs, developing
on lots of fresh herbs such as chive,
parsley, dill, coriander. Hints of
lilac, newly cut flower stems, getting
then ‘resinously’ peaty
(pine needles, honeydew) with also
hints of menthol. Much less fruity
and maritime than the Dun Eideann
but more elegantly vegetal. I like
it just as much. Mouth: we have a
classic palate now, much peatier than
what the nose suggested, with also
lots of mint, wax and apple juice.
A very nice bitterness in the background,
with also quite some camphor and green
pepper, chlorophyll, ginger ale and
marzipan. Simple, compact and excellent,
with a rather long and, again, quite
salty finish. Less salty than the
Dun Eideann, that is. 85 points. |
|
MUSIC
– It's Sunday,
we go classical with the excellent
Elisabeth
Scholl singing a part
of Händel's Athalia.mp3
live. What a beautiful, warm voice!
Please buy her records and go to
her concerts! |
|
March
18, 2006 |
|
|
|
TASTING
- THREE YOUNG INDIE LEDAIGS |
Ledaig
1992/2002 (46%, Caledonian Collection,
cask #114) Colour:
white wine. Nose: it’s rather
fragrant at first nosing, with a mix
of discreet smoke and dried flowers
(pot-pourri). Quite some Chinese anise,
maybe a little coriander but the whole
is very simple. It gets then very
mashy, too sweetish, starting to smell
just like muesli. Hints of vase water,
oriental pastries, rancid butter,
stale beer… Rather weak and
deceptive, to say the least. Mouth:
very weak again, sugarish, with a
little peat smoke and marzipan, cold
tea but almost nothing else. And there’s
no finish whatsoever. Less than with
any cheap beer, I’d say. Too
bad, the decanter is nice! 45
points.
Ledaig
11 yo 1993/2004 (43%, Signatory, cask
#124, 417 bottles)
Colour: white like water. Nose: spirity,
discretely smoky and peaty, with hints
of apples and maybe pears. That’s
all, folks! Mouth: very sweet, mashy
and grainy, with very little peat.
Rather uninteresting, I’m afraid.
Right, it does get more body after
a few minutes but it just tastes like
a mix of supermarket vodka and gin.
One to use in cocktails? 50
points.
Ledaig
1993/2004 (56.5%, James McArthur)
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: punchy,
almost pungent, extremely spirity
and estery. It smells like neutral
apple spirit with hints of pineapples,
mashed potatoes and porridge and faint
whiffs of beer and peat. Mouth: ah
yes, now it’s nicer. Very sweet
and grainy, with quite some apple
juice, yoghurt, grains… At least,
it does taste like whisky (somehow).
Long finish, quite herbal (notes of
dill). 70 points. |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening - Yes, this is the original:
Angélique
Kidjo doing 'Santana's'
Adouma.mp3.
Better, uh? By the way, who are these
singers next to her? A certain Lou
R., a certain David B. and yes, Nick's
very own Ray Davies! |
|
|
March
17, 2006 |
|
|
TASTING
- ANOTHER TWO INDIE CLYNELISHES |
|
Clynelish
1993/2004 (57%, Gordon & MacPhail
Reserve for Glu Glu 2000, cask #1993,
282 bottles)
Glu Glu 2000 is an Italian whisky
club – funny name, congrats!
Colour: white wine. Nose: starts quite
grainy – in a very nice way
– with notes of toasted bread,
ashes and vanilla crème. It
gets then rather smoky, with notes
of hot paraffin and a rather nice
sweet’n’sourness with
whiffs of Provence herbs (mostly thyme
and rosemary) and tepid butter plus
traces of menthol. Not fabulously
complex but certainly flawless and
very enjoyable. I like it! |
Mouth:
we have a very, very sweet and playful
attack, with something slightly rubbery,
pineapple juice and coconut milk,
fruit liquors (quite some blue curacao)
and marshmallows. Certainly fruitier
and sweeter than the usual Clynelishes,
with no smokiness or ‘coastality’
this time but, indeed, a certain waxiness.
Develops on Tia Maria liqueur, Parfait
Amour, Turkish delights, dried bitter
oranges, with something a little hot
on the tongue, and a long, slightly
spirity and quite orangey finish.
Buon! 84 points.
(and thanks Jean-Marc) |
Clynelish
10 yo (59.8%, James MacArthur, circa
2002)
Colour: straw. Nose: this one is even
grainier, with again quite some ashy
notes but also lots of coffee, chocolate
powder and vanilla pod. We have then
quite some mint and eucalyptus coming
through, together with something grassy
and a little tea. Let’s try
it with a little water, maybe it’ll
develop a little further: oh yes,
now it’s much farmier (wet hay)!
Not really more complex but certainly
more directly enjoyable. Mouth (neat):
extremely sweet and we have, again,
litres of fruit liqueurs (orange and
tangerine but also pineapple again,
pears, apples…) Quite simple
but I guess it’s the alcohol.
With water: yes, it’s a good
swimmer indeed. We have some great,
bold marzipan now, together with the
famous waxy notes, orgeat syrup, hints
of mint drops and smoked tea…
Very drinkable, and the finish is
rather long again, a little cleaner
than the 1993. Another rather typical
and good Clynelish. 85 points. |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening - I'm just in the mood for
this.mp3
today. Interstellar and undeniable. |
|
|
March
16, 2006 |
|
|
TASTING
- THREE BEAUTIFUL INDIE LAPHROAIGS |
|
Laphroaig
17 yo 1985/2002 (50%, Douglas Laing
Old Malt Cask, 294 b.)
Colour: straw - white wine. Nose:
this one starts rather discretely
but gets then very maritime, with
very nice notes of fresh seashells
(fresh clams, oysters) and wet kelp
before we get nice whiffs of fresh
almonds and candle wax, and then something
quite farmy (hay, horse dung, dampened
grains). It does need quite some time
to develop but gets then very, very
elegant and rather complex. Superb
notes of old pu-erh tea and genuine
ale. Mouth: very typically Laphroaig
although the attack is maybe a little
shy again. We have then quite some
pepper, almond milk, cereals, kilned
malt that you crunch right at the
distillery, wax, smoked tea, grapefruit
juice… Probably less sweet than
the OB’s and more austere –
I like that. The finish isn’t
too long but perfectly smoky and balanced,
the whole being very close to what
you can smell and taste right there,
when you’re touring the distillery.
In short, a very elegant and well
bred Laphroaig - almost as elegant
as Abbey Lincoln singing ‘The
nearness of you’ with just the
great Hank Jones on the piano (on
‘When There Is Love’).
Ah, yes, by the way, I’ll try
to add a musical comment to some of
my tasting notes again from now on,
just like I did a few years ago –
I hope you won’t mind ;-). 89
points for this Laphroaig. |
Laphroaig
30 yo 1966/1996 (48.7%, Signatory,
cask #560, 208 bottles)
Colour: pure gold. Nose: holy cow!
This is the smell of perfection –
the kind of nose that just makes you
want to lose yourself in your glass.
There’s no point in trying to
organize your feelings regarding this
kind of nose (no time for that just
now, I’m sorry) so I’ll
just list a few examples of what I
get, in no particular order: eucalyptus,
menthol, peat, old books, fir honey,
burning pine wood, olive oil, seashells,
Havana smoke, mastic, argan oil, turpentine,
camphor, seawater, shoe polish, marzipan,
cow stable… Just magnificent.
Mouth: please just copy-and-paste
what’s above and add orange
zests and high-quality Turkish delights
(not the awful supermarket kind) and
we’re done. Finish: rather long
and doing the peacock’s tail
on all kinds of smoky and waxy flavours.
How bold and delicate at the same
time, triple-wow! A piece of music?
Hmm… Probably Mirella Freni,
and probably as Mimi. 94 points
(or more… - and thanks,
Marc). |
Laphroaig
1990/2006 (58.4%, JWWW The Cross Hill,
bourbon cask, 239 bottles)
Colour; pale gold. Nose: we’re
back in more austere and simpler territories
now, it appears. It’s quite
powerful at first nosing, starting
very meaty like it happens sometimes
with Laphroaig, maybe even ‘fishy’
(keepers), with also bold notes of
flints, ashes, fireplace, newly cut
grass and grapefruit juice. Really
sharp, in fact, developing on hot
ham, green tomatoes, getting smokier
by the minute… And also very,
very farmy (it smells just like a
cow stable after a few minutes). What
a beast (precisely). Mouth: oh yes,
what a beast! The attack is more complex
and sweeter than expected, with a
lot of lemon and grapefruit juice,
waxed paper, cough sweets, smoked
dishes again (both meat and fish)
and something very mineral. Not the
embodiment of delicacy but it does
conquer your palate ‘manu militari’,
except if you don’t like Islayers.
Lots of camphor, white pepper, nutmeg,
quite some dried cardamom, dried chilli…
Yes, it’s hot. The finish is
extremely long, still invading, and
even ten minutes after your last sip,
you could think you just had it. A
very conclusive Laphroaig, not only
for hopeless peatophiles. Music? Something
by Wagner (no, not Robert). 92
points. |
PETE
McPEAT AND JACK WASHBACK |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening - Lol, lol, lol! Did you
know Ursula
1000 and his internet
hit Kinda
kinky.mp3? Sure it's s**t but
it's nicely made s**t (really sorry
guys). Please consider paying attention
to Ursula 1000... (via motel
de moka) |
|
|
March
15, 2006 |
|
|
|
MUSIC
AND WHISKY INTERVIEW
FINIAN McKEAN
That’s what’s really
amazing with the Internet. I mean,
I haven’t been to New York
City for ages, never went to Brooklyn
(well, once, actually), never went
to the Knitting Factory (nor to
Pete’s Candy Store, for that
matter), and never saw any of Finian
McKean’s excellent CD’s
here in France, yet I feel I know
him quite well now. |
You
know, it’s the kind of great
discovery you make while looking for
something about Charlie McLean on
google – ‘L’ and
‘K’ being so close to
each other on a PC’s keyboard.
And then you click on a link, spot
a picture of a guy who looks just
like your son Arthur (and sometimes
like a very young Willlie Nelson),
see an mp3 file, click again…
And think you just unearthed a very
rare, early recording of Syd Barrett
meeting Led Zeppelin – just
much better recorded. Then you manage
to get a CD, check that the whole
is just as good as that excellent
Barrett-esque piece, and presto, you
have a new rock and roll hero, and
a perfect target for a Whiskyfun Music
and Whisky Interview (even if, to
be honest, Finian isn’t precisely
what we’d call a genuine whisky
'aficionado'). |
Whiskyfun:
Finian, tell us briefly about what
you do, music-wise.
Finian
McKean: I feel
these overwhelming surges of love
& anxiety and then try to get
it out of my system by putting those
feelings to music. I’ll usually
write a song on acoustic guitar or
piano and then translate it to a more
rocking band arrangement. |
WF:
Which other musicians
are you playing with?
Finian:
Right now my chief collaborator
is the amazing drummer Patrick Brennan…
we’ve been interpreting the
songs off “Shades Are Drawn”
as a duo, extending them, changing
them, speeding them up, slowing them
down. My old band the Push Kings had
much more precise arrangements, so
it’s been fun for me to play
in a situation that’s fluid,
where we never do a song the same
way twice.
We’re calling our live act Finian
McKean + the Wild Palms; hopefully
we’ll add musicians as we get
bored of each other….:) :) We
just did a show with a cool bassist,
Leo O’Connor. He holds down
the bottom and I can go SICK on my
335! |
WF:
Which are your other
favourite artistes?
Finian:
I tend to like anything that’s
raw, with a little swing to it….
John Lennon, Charles MIngus, Lightnin
Hopkins, Neil Young, Syd Barrett,
JJ Cale, the Meat Puppets, the Pretenders,
Johnny Thunders, Duke Ellington, Augustus
Pablo, the Abyssinians… My eyes
are starting to wander up towards
the 1000s of LPs on my shelves, but
for the sake of brevity, we’d
better leave it at that…. |
WF:
Which are your current
projects?
Finian:
Right now I’m completely
fried from preparing the official
release of “Shades Are Drawn.”
I wrote it, played it, produced it,
mixed it, mastered it & damned
if I don’t have to put it out
myself, too!!!! Of course I’m
learning a lot about the biz this
way… Just launched my label
site: www.andeachforonly.com
I’m working on my next record,
now, too—it’s a collaboration
with the Wild Palms, due out in winter
2007.
What else? Playing shows like crazy,
opening for the legendary John Doe
this week on St. Paddy’s day…
that should be a trip! |
WF:
When did you start
enjoying whisk(e)y? Are there any
musical memories you particularly
associate with that moment?
Finian:
You know I have to be honest….
Although my full name is Finian McKean
Moore Gerety & I’m a rock
musician (two factors that should
predispose me to a love of the hard
stuff), I think I’m too sensitive…
SO when I START enjoying whisky, I
tend to get wasted & fall down
the stairs or pass out or throw up
on my date’s shoes… That’s
when I have to STOP enjoying it. |
WF:
What’s your
most memorable whisky?
Finian:
See above…. but I could
also add a dim memory of holding a
bottle over my head, emptying the
contents into my eyes, trying to kiss
somebody and then passing out….
The fact that I remember that nite
at all must mean that it was particularly
memorable. |
WF:
Do you have one, or
several favourite whiskies?
Finian:
I love them one and all.
(see above) |
WF:
Are there whiskies
you don’t like?
Finian:
I hate them one and all.
(see above) |
WF:
‘If the river
was whisky baby, and I was a diving
duck’ is one of the most famous
and well used whisky lyrics, from
sea-shanties to blues and rock and
roll. Do you have a favourite musical
whisky reference?
Finian:
I heard a great William Faulkner
quote this morning: “All a writer
needs is a piece of paper, a pencil,
and a bottle of whisky.”
While I’m mulling it over, let’s
review some other substances:
Little Feat: “Gimme weed, whites
and wine/ & I’ll be fine”
The Gun Club: “She’s like
heroin to me…”
Neil Young: “Homegrown’s
all right with me/ Homegrown is the
way it should be...”
Kris Kristofferson: “The beer
I had for breakfast wasn’t bad/
So I had one more for dessert”
Aha! How could I forget….
My fave musical whisky reference:
“Please don’t sell me
any more WHISKEY tonight/
When I go home, me & my little
darling will fight/
When I’ma drinking, you know
my reasoning ain’t right/
So please don’t sell me anymore
whiskey tonite…”
-George Jones
Words to live by, if you ask me…
Although I’m sure WHISKYFUN
readers are capable of enjoying their
malt responsibly. |
WF:
Music and whisky are
often though of as being male preserves.
Should girls play guitars, should
girls drink whisky?
Finian:
Hell yeah! On guitar: Elizabeth
Cotten, Chrissie Hynde, Lucinda Williams,
to name a few… On whisky: it’s
the only alcohol my wife will touch…
|
WF:
I
once heard an eminent whisky professional
say that he tasted whisky in colours.
Do you taste whisky in music?
Finian:
Definitely…. Most singers &
musicians are big drinkers because
we work in bars and it’s hard
to resist night after night. Plus
music sounds better with a little
BUZZ on, you know? So when I hear
some music, I can hear the whisky
in the singer’s voice or in
the lazy twang of the guitar. And
when I drink whisky, I always hear
music because I never do anything
without a record on or a guitar in
my hands!!! |
WF:
Do
you have a favourite piece of music
to drink whisky with, or better still,
desert island dram, desert island
disc?
Finian:
If
I’m gonna drink whisky, it has
to be country music or blues…
Kris Kristofferson makes me feel like
drinking whisky; so does Howlin’
Wolf. |
WF:
Everyone
thinks of Jack Daniels as being the
great rock and roll whisky –
why not Scotch?
Finian:
In
my house, there’s no Jack. It’s
probably the great rock n roll whisky
because musicians never have any money
& Jack isn’t too expensive…
In this household, we’ll pour
a Scotch like Glenlivet. Take that,
guns n roses! |
Thank
you very much, Finian!
A few links of interest:
Finian's official
website with that excellent
'Syd-Barrett-esque' piece called
Shades
are drawn.mp3.(although the
more I listen to it, the more I
think it's rather Finian-McKean-esque
;-)
And
Each For Only (Finian McKean's
record label)
Shades
are drawn - the album (new CD,
release date June 1st, 2006, to
put on your to do list obligatorily). |
TASTING
- 3 + 1 HIGHLAND PARKS |
|
Highland
Park 1977 ‘Bicentenary’
(40%, OB, bottled 1998)
Colour: gold. Nose: not too powerful
but very fragrant and aromatic at
first nosing, starting on lots of
honey and the classical heathery notes.
Whiffs of toasted bread and wood smoke,
ripe bananas, nectar, pear juice,
with something slightly meaty in the
background. There’s also a little
oak – yes, charred oak, ripe
apricots and plums, hints of sweet
white wine… It’s rather
rich, even if not too bold. A rather
delicate Highland Park, I’d
say, maybe a tad ‘feminine’,
whatever that means. Mouth: sweet
and rather firm attack, despite the
low A.B.V., although a little more
body would have been welcomed. Starts
on quite some ‘genuine’
vanilla, notes of rum, peat, wax,
dried herbs and some nice oaky tones.
It’s not exactly tannic but
nicely structured. Hints of violet
sweets, cake, mint drops… It
really resembles the old versions
distilled in the 1950’s and
1960’s, which is very good news.
The finish isn’t too long, but
superbly waxy and camphory, with also
quite some caramel. An excellent Highland
Park – again, too bad they didn’t
bottle it at a slightly higher strength,
I’m sure it would have been
a winner. 89 points
(and thanks, Pierre). |
Highland
Park 20 yo 1966/1986 (86° US Proof,
Duthie for Corti, USA)
Colour: white wine. Nose: wow, this
one is completely different, and very
similar to an Old Clynelish at first
nosing (like the old 12 yo white label
bottled in the early 1970’s).
Starts on quite some smoke and paraffin,
together with something pleasantly
metallic and mineral, ashes, coal,
linseed oil… It gets then quite
meaty (ham, smoked sausages, smoked
salmon), farmy, and keeps developing
on rosehip tea, butter, dairy cream…
And then we have whiffs of peat, with
something clearly maritime –
but very different from an Islayer.
Sea air, old fisherman’s ropes,
seaweed… Very classy! Mouth:
the attack is almost like a cough
syrup’s. Sweet and waxy, with
quite some eucalyptus, spearmint,
chlorophyll chewing gum and lots of
quince jelly. We have also something
slightly ‘chemically fruity’
(you know, like Jell-O or Haribo teddy
bears), marshmallows – is that
‘chemical’ as well? -
lavender crème… It gets
then perhaps a little too cardboardy
and tea-ish, with notes of burnt caramel
and burnt bread but the whole is still
superb and very, very original. The
finish isn’t much longer than
the 1977’s, but just as waxy,
with also quite some marzipan and
lots of fresh mint. Very good and
highly interesting! 89 points
(and thanks, Olivier). |
Highland
Park 30 yo (48.1%, OB, 2005)
Colour: gold – amber. Nose:
wow, this is bolder now, with lots
of toffee and hot praline at first
nosing, chocolate mousse, fresh coconut
and smoke. This one is undoubtedly
very complex! It’s soon to switch
to some rather meaty tones like smoked
ham again, bacon, making the influence
of sherry even more evident. It goes
on with dried plums, Chinese plum
sauce, blueberry wine (like the one
they make in Northern Germany), dried
litchis, then we’re back to
smoky, ashy notes (coal oven), maybe
a little game, balsamic vinegar, soy
sauce, old leather… And then
we do have a few fresh fruits coming
through (mangos, very ripe pineapples).
A very ‘ripe’ Highland
Park indeed, maybe even a little decadent,
not unlike some very old Ports. I
like that a lot (I’m afraid!).
Mouth: very sweet but not dull at
all, much less creamy and ‘thick’
than expected. Lots of very ripe fruits
(bananas and plums), tea jelly, several
sorts of honeys (I can think of chestnut,
lavender, orange tree), oriental pastries…
Then we have a series of rumy, chocolaty
flavours, and finally notes of fruitcake,
cappuccino, Irish coffee (well, Scottish
coffee) and buttered caramel. Ah,
and also lots of dried litchis again
(which often have a slightly ‘fermented’
taste). Superb! The finish is long
– should I add of course –
getting salty and, again, sort of
meaty and slightly dry, with something
of the best old balsamic vinegars
(not the cheap supermarket ersatzes).
Just excellent, one of the best very
recent OB’s I could taste. 92
points (and thanks again,
Olivier). |
And
also... Highland
Park 19 yo 1984/2003 (50%, Douglas
Laing OMC, 630 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: starts on some
bold notes of fresh pineapple and
flint stones, developing on apple
skins and getting a little waxy. Not
bad at all but maybe too simple for
a 19 yo HP. Mouth: lots of fruit sweets,
heavily sugared yoghurt, marshmallows…
Some weird notes of mouldy grains…
Really lacks complexity and depth.
Too bad. 75 points. |
|
Check
the index of all entries:
Whisky
Music
Nick's Concert
Reviews |
|
|
|
|
|
Best
malts I had these weeks - 90+
points only - alphabetical:
Caperdonich
1968/2006 (49.5%, M&H Cask Selection,
131 bottles)
Glenlivet
21 yo 1948/1969 (45.7%,
OB for Italy, Baretto)
Glenrothes
34 yo 1968/2003 (40.3%, Duncan Taylor)
Glenrothes
36 yo 1968/2005 (57.2%, Duncan Taylor,
Cask 13485)
Glenugie
18 yo 1959/1977 (80° proof, Cadenhead
dumpy)
Highland
Park 30 yo (48.1%,
OB, 2005)
Laphroaig
1990/2006 (58.4%, JWWW The Cross Hill,
bourbon cask, 239 bottles)
Laphroaig
30 yo 1966/1996 (48.7%, Signatory,
cask #560, 208 bottles)
Port
Ellen 1979/2006 (55.3%, M&H Cask
Selection for Whisky Live Belgium, refill sherry,
150 bottles)
Port
Ellen 27 yo 1978/2006 (55.3%, Douglas
Laing Platinum, bourbon, 375 bottles)
|
|
|
|