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Hi, you're in the Archives, February 2022 - Part 2
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February 28, 2022 |
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Malts from around
this troubled world |
| To paraphrase Napoléon on Champagne (although some historians claim that he never said anything close to that, or that Churchill actually said it), whisky, either you deserve it or you need it. |
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Brenne 'Ten' (48%, OB, France, +/-2021) 
Basically, just like Bastille or a few other brands, the first light and sweet Brenne NAS were French whiskies made for the US, and virtually no one in France was aware of their existence, let alone drinking them. Now this 'premium' expression might be rather different, let's see. Please note that it won Double Gold at the San Francisco World Spirit Competition 2021. I swear. Oh and why 'Ten' and not 'Dix'? Colour: white wine. Nose: sour oak, green walnuts, vin jaune, a little coal smoke, mashed celeriac and turnip, and even… drumroll please, manzanilla! Highly surprising, in a good way. Mouth: adios manzanilla on the palate, this is rather some hottish plum spirit with rather a lot of gritty sawdust and peppered green tea. Then cider apples and just green oak, plus white brandy, what they would call 'blanche' in Armagnac. Tough guy. Finish: long, harsh, getting bitter and gingery. Comments: I'm not sure the distillate was ready to put up with this much new oak. Having said that, I'm rather a fan of the manzanilla-y nose.
SGP:371 - 72 points |
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Teerenpeli 'Kaski' (43%, OB, Finland, sherry casks, 2021) 
Bottled in March, 2021, from 100% sherry casks. We enjoyed a recent 'Kulo' a lot (WF 86). Colour: light gold. Nose: starts bready and chalky, then come a little liquorice wood, mustard and horseradish, then charcoal and roasted raisins. Some kind of earthier liquorice arising after a few seconds, which I find lovely, then bags of old walnuts. Solid nose. Mouth: starts very peppery and earthy, leafy as well, but gets then rounder, with some mocha, roasted sesame, pecans and bitter chocolate. Perhaps pistachios. Really to my liking, it doesn't even really suffer from its lightish strength. Finish: very good, if not very long. A little gunpowder (why now?) and bitter almonds. Even a drop of lapsang souchong and some cigarette ashes. Comments: a singular style that I enjoy.
SGP:352 - 85 points |
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Masthouse 2017/2020 'Single Malt' (45%, OB, Copper Rivet Distillery, England, 2000 bottles) 
I'm afraid I had never heard of the Copper Rivet Distillery before. It is single-estate malt whisky and was distilled in a column still! I believe they would call it a single grain in Scotland. Colour: straw. Nose: light, on white asparagus, coconut, vanilla and sunflower oil. Which is absolutely not unpleasant, mind you. Mouth: a fine little 3 years old that would rather feel a little 'Irish blend' if you ask me. Soft oiliness, more sunflower oil, a delicate vanilla-led oakiness, overripe apples, watermelon, touch of acacia honey, coconut balls, toffee apple… Finish: not that short, curiously malty (was it a short column?) and with biscuits and brioches. More green tea from the oak in the aftertaste. Comments: yet another excellent surprise. Feels more 'Lomond' than 'Coffey' in my little book. By the way, the Distillery is located in Kent, right between Canterbury and London.
SGP:451 - 84 points |
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Cooley 18 yo (58.16%, W.D. O'Connell, Ireland, PX series, cask #144105, 2020) 
It was a PX finish, not full maturing. W.D. O' Connell are Irish independent bottlers from Waterford county. Do they have some Waterford too? Colour: gold. Nose: loaded with ripe gooseberries, the expected pink bananas, starkrimsons and, best of news, no obvious PX at this point. With water: panettone (so, with raisins) and earl grey chiming in. Awesome, flawless. Mouth (neat): totally on wine gums and jellies. If Haribo are ever starting a whisky distillery, this is probably what they would produce; and we'd all love the end result unapologetically. With water: firmer, with more sweet herbs, more cakes as well, liquorice allsorts, banana foam and other guilty pleasures. Finish: long, sweet and fruity. Lime tea and honey. Comments: superb drop. I believe it is not always easy to tell the difference between these batches of Cooley and some of the Bushmills.
SGP:641 - 89 points |
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Midleton 'Very Rare Release 2022' (40%, OB, Ireland) 
A famous series within which they keep bottling their jewels at 40% vol., which, I find, is almost a statement. Obviously, this one's brand new, and is a self-blend of 12 to 33 years old whiskeys, possibly not all pure-pot-still as they wouldn't tell you it is. I mean, not a pure pot still whiskey. Colour: gold. Nose: I remember I used to find these Very Rare lightish twenty years ago, but this time I'm rather finding this 2020 edition extremely complex and rather akin to a Meursault from a good vintage (and from a good house, check Anne Boisson!) Higgledy-piggledy, I would say mango peel, fresh hazelnuts, angelica, citrons, touches of sorrel and coriander, toasted maize bread, lemon balm, biscuits, butter cream, that insane cake called Paris-Brest, a little chalk… Give it time, it is endless. Mouth: no, I mean yes, this is bottled sin. You would almost believe it was a good idea to bottle this at 40% vol. (do not shoot). Peaches, melons and mangos vie for the leading part, heather honey's coming out too, then we have a little proper sugarcane syrup, a little peanut butter, orange blossom, baklavas, ripe bananas… Finish: good, it is, indeed, fading away a little fastly now, which just makes you want to pour more. Tsk tsk, nasty trick. Comments: this baby delivered much more than I was expecting, while I've long been thinking that those 'Very Rare' were just pricey under-Redbreasts.
SGP:641 - 91 points |
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Currach 'Wakame' (46%, OB, Ireland, +/-2021)
We've already tried one of those, not even sure I've already published my note. We're a little disoriented these days. It's sourced Irish whiskey finished in barrels that have been charred using wakame seaweed from the Atlantic. As long as no one ever uses gunpowder… Colour: light gold. Nose: oh, I remember, this is good fun, even if it is pretty unlikely. Bicycle inner tube, loads of caraway, loads of nutmeg too, cumin, Barbour grease, masala… I don't think anyone would get the wakame, which is not very aromatic anyway, but this very peculiar tarry and rubbery side is working very well. Perhaps for petrolheads? Mouth: so funny! You would get some salt now, some smoke for sure, something balsamic, rubbers, burnt eucalyptus wood perhaps, while you would then experience a curious feeling of pine-smoked grapefruits and curry. No, really. Finish: long, on similar notes. Salty lemons kept in coal tar, with a drizzle of Port Ellen. Who's going to try to make that? Comments: crazy but good fun. We all need fun. Bravo!
SGP:463 - 86 points |
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Bimber (58.1%, OB for WFFA, England, virgin American oak, cask #97, 2020)
This is not England, this is London, baby. It is 'Single Malt London Whisky', you understand. Colour: deep gold. Nose: I knew it. Orange liqueur, Bénédictine, raisins soaked in mezcal (and why not?) and kougelhopf. Basically lovely, as they say in Vegas. With water: cantaloupe, papayas, pink bananas, cassata, peach syrup… Mouth (neat): just very smart. Spicy oranges, papayas, lemon curd, ginger cookies, limoncello. With water: a drop of rosewater, then fantabulous notes of pink grapefruit and any kinds of liqueurs or wines made thereof by very smart people in remote countries. Finish: not that long, but immaculately fruity. Comments: extremely convinced, I am. I hate to give a high score to such a young whisky, but there. I also believe that this is Bimber's best 'cask bill'.
SGP:641 - 90 points |
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You say we haven't left Europe today? See, we're listening… |
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Hellyers Road 18 yo (56.4%, OB, Tasmania/Australia, The Nectar and Kirsch Import, American oak, cask #2269.03, 197 bottles, 2021)
Tasmania? I've always been a fan of the platypus, since I was a kid. I hope they're doing all right but I'm sure that the Tasmanians are taking great care of those incredible 'other human beings'. Colour: light gold. Nose: naturally, sunflower oil, vanilla pods, salsify, buckwheat, and just 'breads'. Breads always win it. With water: a superb oily nuttiness. Pine nut, pumpkin seed, Brazil nuts… Mouth (neat): lemons, bananas, coffee, butterscotch, caraway liqueur, yellow curry, dried jujubes, paprika. Sounds unlikely? It's not. With water: takes water extremely well. I just made the mistake we all sometimes make when we get distracted, I added water twice, and yet, the baby remained fiercely straight. Stewed bananas and the softest soft curry. Finish: long and breadier. Comments: love, love, love many Hellyers Road including this one, but how are the platypus doing?
SGP:651 - 90 points |
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Two Brewers 'Classic Single Malt' (46%, OB, Canada, release No.26, 2021)
This from Yukon! Love it that this would have been 'mashed with water from glacier-fed streams'. That's better than Nestlé's city tap-water, no? In case you wouldn't know, Yukon's located in the northwest of Canada, close to Alaska (and far from Céline Dion, I hope). Colour: light gold. Nose: ha! Some tarry and mentholated raisins and fresh brioche, that's what I'm getting. Salmon smoked with pinewood and nectarines in honey sauce, that's what I'm getting too. Mouth: it is just incredible that this wee baby would have same-level talks with the Midleton, the Hellyers Road or the Bimber, without any complex. Perfect sweet and fruity oiliness, fruit syrups, sweet barley, pear liqueur, soft oak spices, sweet maize, sweet condensed milk and the obligatory ripe bananas. Finish: medium, softer, easy, fruity, oily, a tiny tad syrupy towards the aftertaste. Comments: extremely impressed; now Alsace -> Yukon, that's 7,226.72 km as the condor flies. Life isn't fair.
SGP:641 - 87 points |
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Perhaps a last one, perhaps one from the good old US of A… |
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Kentucky Owl 'Confiscated in 1916' (48.2%, OB, USA, straight bourbon whiskey, +/-2019) 
I've only ever tried one owl from Kentucky, an 11 yo rye that had been superb (WF 87). This very one comes with a 'story' but it's so phony that I think we should maybe just try the liquid. Colour: full gold. Nose: the thing is, the liquid is very nice, actually almost perfect, with buttered sweet maize and pancakes, maple syrup, a touch of new fabric (tweed jacket straight from Pakist… I mean from Walker Slater), popcorn and nougat, Jack-Daniel's (what?), a little cellulose, varnish… Nutshell, a simple and easy-ish, yet very lovely bourbony nose. Mouth: yes, pretty good, but simpler than on the nose, a little rough, with allspice, apple wine, some sour woodiness, some coconut, cinnamon and ginger (in my wee book, that's oak that's not fully integrated)… Would tend to lose steam and become a little indefinite. Finish: medium, sour, oaky. Not too sure. Coconut in the aftertaste, never a nice ending. Comments: this started extremely well, but it all went downhill after just a few seconds. Still a very fine bourbon, it's just that I won't remember it forever. Remember what?
SGP:640 - 79 points |
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Better stop now. Cheers and take heart, Ukraine! |
(Many thanks, Henrik and Jürgen) |
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February 27, 2022 |
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A tanker of rum for Ukraine |
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Quite. There's more pouring in, which I find both charming and challenging, since there's only one Sunday per week. Bah we can't try everything anyway, so pressure remains relative (as long as our dearest friends don't keep asking 'when are you going to taste our stunning Ron de la Revolucion that we mailed you seven years ago?'…) Bah, let's see what we'll have today… This for our Ukrainian friends, of course.
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Conde de Cuba 15 yo 'Extra Anejo' (38%, OB, Cuba, +/-2018)
A very bizarre semi-circular bottle that I had never seen while on location. The 38% don't bode too well either, but let's see… Colour: deep gold. Nose: rather interestingly, it would start like some young rancio wine, with some kind of 'grapeyness' and certainly whiffs of old wine cellar, old barrels, old wood, molasses, sherry vinegar… Then rather peach jam, sour fig and onion chutney, then just café latte and chocolate. Pretty nose, I have to say. Mouth: certainly not unpleasant, with obvious notes of coffee-schnapps and liquorice in the arrival, but it's soon to lose steam and fall flat, so to speak. Finish: very short. Traces of oranges, coffee and chocolate. Comments: one to sip at the Buena Vista club while smoking a local puro. Not bad at all, on the contrary, but it's really very light and frustrating.
SGP:230 - 78 points |
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Chairman's Reserve 21 yo 1999/2021 (66.5%, OB, St. Lucia, Mads Heitmann for Romhatten Cask Selection #5, ex-bourbon, cask #108011999, 229 bottles)
This baby was distilled in the John Dore 1 double retort pot still. It's very interesting to learn that they've been ullaging it (a.k.a. consolidating) every two years using sister barrels. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: as expected, starts with a lot of varnish and acetone, fresh pine sawdust and linoleum, before it would get kind of agricole, very complex, cane-y, with bags of walnuts and rotting bananas, as well as a little diesel oil and pine sap... Curiously approachable. With water: magnificent, this is almost some nutty old oloroso. Yes, I've noticed it was ex-bourbon. Mouth (neat): fantastic petroly and piney oak, some varnish again, truffle essence, raw cocoa, then ten tons of salmiak (or salted liquorice). The 66.5% are incredibly easy to handle. With water: towards higher-esters, olives, capers and even more salmiak. Finish: long, tight, salty and coffeeish. I know coffee and salt don't get along well, to put it mildly, but in this case they do. Comments: terrific rum from St. Lucia Distillers. Perfect handling of some heavy, yet very elegant oak.
SGP:363 - 90 points |
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French Antilles 2019/2021 'Virgin Oak' (50%, 1423 World Class Spirits for rumology.be 5th anniversary, Martinique)
This one from Le Galion, the last remaining sugar factory in Martinique. They make a 'grand arôme' from molasses, so not an agricole, but I'm not sure this very one is one of them. Colour: light gold. Nose: so singular! New rubber boots, cane juice, linoleum again, a new box of cigars, some spent engine oil, crushed sugarcane, some cellulosic varnish… With water: more olives, kelp, fresh concrete, rubber… Mouth (neat): great fun. Pink grapefruits, cold sorrel soup, olives, rhubarb, drops of seawater, bits of cured ham, plus some rather estery pineapples and bananas about to start rotting. This is very long fermentation, I believe up to 10 days, which creates this quasi-bacterial kind of profile. With water: calms down a little bit. Liquorice allsorts, especially the ones that are filled with lemon foam (ha). Finish: long but not invading. Should be great for making babas. Comments: I don't know if this qualifies as 'grand arôme', but it's absolutely lovable. Our friends the Belgians, again.
SGP:462 - 89 points |
I've got an idea, let's try some rum that was bottled at more than twice the strength of that little Cuban we started this wee session with… |
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Saint James 'Brut de Colonne' (74.2%, OB, Martinique, Batch #1, 2020)
This might be a little strong, but we're safe as it is organic. Are we not? Brut de colonne means straight from the column. Colonne créole, naturally, as this is officially agricole. Colour: white. Nose: stunning fresh cane, cane syrup, crushed fresh almonds, plantains and white asparagus. Wham. With water: grass and, bizarrely, rather some agave syrup. Otherwise fresh marzipan, green tea and oyster shells. Mouth (neat – careful now): lemons, touches of smoked fish, olive oil, icing sugar, cane juice 'of course', liquorice allsorts this time again, and… we'll stop here, we need our tastebuds mind you. With water: feels a bit like some readymade ti' punch. Lovely citrons and crystallised tangerines. Finish: long, wonderful, fresh, even a tad medicinal. Camphor and paraffin, sweetened lemon juice in the aftertaste. Comments: I find this way superior to Saint James' 'Fleur de Cane'. Excellent white.
SGP:562 - 85 points |
While we're at Saint James… |
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Saint-James 15 yo 2006/2021 (47%, OB and Velier, Martinique, Tribute to Jean-Claude Benoit)
Velier and Luca Gargano have been working with Saint James for more than 46 years. Together they're releasing a series of ten different vintages to celebrate. Colour: amber. Nose: top of the agricole style. Roasted nuts, raisins and cane, plus headier flowers (lillies, wisteria) and some grassy earthiness. Tiny whiffs of fruit compost plus some very well mastered oakiness, a wee bit on the piney side, which we always enjoy. Very elegant on the nose. Mouth: amazing. Cedar shavings at first (sucking our pencils at school), then flower jellies and jams (borage, jasmine), a little hay-and-mint mix, liquorice wood, touch of aniseed and verbena, woodruff as well… This is both firm and delicate, complex, extremely appealing and just lovable. And drinks extremely well (sometimes a handicap indeed). Finish: long, with this cedarwood that's still on. The signature is very earthy/caney, which is lovely, obviously. Comments: exquisite selection. We've got several vintages but we'll probably only have this one today.
SGP:462 - 91 points |
Well, no, we'll have another one if you don't mind. Eenie meenie… |
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Saint-James 19 yo 2002/2021 (47%, OB and Velier, Martinique, Tribute to Jean-Claude Benoit) 
Forgot to say, they also did this series to celebrate the 25 years of the Appellation Contrôlée Martinique. Colour: amber. Nose: deeper and oakier, more on garden peat, potting soil, compost and fir bark, more on resins as well, sandalwood cedarwood, pinewood, you name it. I'm finding many more jams as well, peony jelly (goes greatly with foie gras), poppy jelly, even geranium flowers, menthol… Mouth: sour oak in the front. Oversteeped black tea, rooibos, damp cigar, liquorice wood… We've gone beyond my personal limits here. Finish: long, more on sour oak. A small soapiness in the aftertaste and more tannicity, and yet I haven't added any waters. Comments: I am a huge fan of the stunning, flabbergasting, dazzling 2006, and rather loved the nose of this 2002 (hence a highish score), but I'm finding this palate a little hard. I'm sure it's me, having said that.
SGP:272 - 81 points |
I know what I'm going to do… |
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Saint-James 6 yo 2015/2021 (47%, OB and Velier, Martinique, Tribute to Jean-Claude Benoit)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: who could be against menthol, soft liquorice and ripe banana? Or banana cake with drops of chartreuse inside, honeysuckle, cane juice, roasted almonds and sweet/soft olives (Nyons)? That's what I'm finding. Mouth: it is pretty funny that I would find notes that would be similar to those of the 2002, only fresher, rounder and tighter. A little waxy. Finish: long, more on coffee, chocolate and chicory, with a little menthol again in the aftertaste, as well as a waxy side. And marmalade in the after-aftertaste, and in the retro-olfaction. Comments: very good, there.
SGP:551 - 85 points |
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Jamaican Rum 13 yo (46%, Cadenhead's Green Label, 2021)
We'll call this 'the lettuce label'. The distillery's not disclosed. Colour: light gold. Nose: new tyres and crushed almonds plus engine oil, lamp oil, plasticine and shoe polish. Forgot to mention sardines, or Portuguese 'Paté de Sardinha e Cavala'. I could wolf down five kilos of those as long as I have good bread on the side. Oh and good Jamaican rum, such as this very little baby. Mouth: easy, feeling like a Jamaican blend of high quality. Is it a single? Vanilla, olives, pine honey, liquorice, salt, desert cream, a drop of seawater, a drop of pilsner beer, some bananas flambéed, some smoked kippers. This is pretty complex. Finish: medium, briny. Olives, sardines and vanilla. Comments: Jamaica's class speaks, even at 46%.
SGP:453 - 87 points |
Is this a good session or is this a good session? Let's move on… |
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Long Pond 20 yo (60.1%, Sample X and The Duchess, Jamaica, 127 bottles, 2021)
Actually some more witchcraft by The Rum Mercenary here… Colour: white wine. Nose: I'm not too sure, is this Exxon, British Petroleum or Total? You got it, it is very benzine-y, as well as very salty, briny, coastal, and old-ship-like. Tar, spent oils, olives… With water: saffron, brake dust, carbon, tarred olives, anchovies, even urchins… Mouth (neat): whoosh, more tar, oils, rotting bananas and olives (both green and black), all that at a murderous strength. No, we'll never get used to 60+! With water: back to gentler bananas and various tropical fruits about to rot. Right, okay, you're right, to ferment. Finish: long, perfectly salty. Olives filled with anchovy paste. I'd kill for that. Comments: massive and as good as it gets. Oh well, let's say it, I love it.
SGP:363 - 90 points |
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JMD 24 yo 1997/2021 (59.4%, The Whisky Blues, Jamaica, barrel, 206 bottles)
A little bird told me this could be H*****n. No, of course not Hazelburn! Colour: gold. Nose: H. is a little more acetic, which shows here, a little more on acetone as well, and yet it would be better balanced, albeit wider. In other words, rather vinegars and varnishes gently running the show here, which I just love, no need to say, despite this wee feeling of 'new Tesla'. And kelp, and 'Caol Ila'. With water: carbon, burnt sugars, bitter caramel, old books (love this), magazines, razorfish and clams… Even chive and garlic! Mouth (neat): ho. Tight, gritty, grassy, ashy, very olive-y. I would have said New Yarmouth or perhaps Clarendon, really, rather than 'H'. Biting into orange and banana peel. With water: no, it's fab. A feeling of smoked lemons and olives. Finish: long, same, going towards ashes. Comments: restless and boisterous, this one's a fighter that just wouldn't keep quiet. Remember Jamaica is the Islay of rum, minus the bagpipes.
SGP:463 - 90 points |
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Long Pond 1998/2021 'CRV' (49.4%, Plantation, Jamaica, Bardstown Fusion series, for Belgium, co-selected by Rumology.be)
This is almost an OB as Plantation owners Maison Ferrand do now own 1/3 of National Rums of Jamaica, which own Long Pond Distillery. Capeesh? Oh and this has been finished in ex-bourbon, not in ex-cognac. Colour: golden amber. Nose: much lighter than the previous ones, more of roasted nuts and warm cakes, which doesn't mean that there are no watts in there. Warm brioche, walnut cake, pancakes, roasted peanuts and pecans… It's true that the marque CRV, just like CQP, would suggest that the ester counts are very low. Mouth: it is, indeed, a lighter rum, rather on chicory coffee, walnut wine, perhaps pumpernickel bread, at times we would almost believe this is good grain whisky. Quite. Oh, or Cuban rum. Finish: medium, with a little caramel, maple syrup, denser heather honey and just cane syrup. The bourbon wood could handle itself well enough. Café latte in the aftertaste. Comments: very good, it is the very pleasant lighter side of Jamaica. Or, if you like, Jamaica's Bunnahabhain. Don't shoot!
SGP:540 - 84 points |
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Enmore 29 yo 1992/2021 (58.1%, Distilia, Guyana, The Golden Age of Piracy, Anney, cask #6, 250 bottles)
A tribute to Irish lady pirate Anne Bonny, who had operated in the Caribbean way before Elon Musk (my own comments). Colour: rich amber. Nose: precious teas and mentholy herbs at first, then sauna oils and bits of rubber and plastic. I would believe the high strength kind of blocks it a little bit, although these little herbal teas do bode well, let's see… With water: wonderful, with old humidor, balsa wood, charcoal, pecan pie, Brazil nuts (not Bolsonaro), a salty tang, a drop of gravy, chicken bouillon… Mouth (neat): coffee and Cointreau at first, then burnt wood and heavy molasses. Once again I would believe water should do wonders in this context… With water: turns salty and bouillony once more. Finish: medium, salty. Comments: perhaps not exactly on par with the flabbergasting Caroni 'Blackbeard' in the same series, but still very wonderful. It's a little hard to get the right amount of water right (what?)
SGP:362 - 88 points |
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Versailles at Enmore 32 yo 1991/2021 (48.2%, Distilia, Guyana, Greenheart Collection, 175 bottles)
From the famous single wooden pot still. Thirty-two years, we are really adding up here, are we not? Colour: light gold – incredibly light at 32. Nose: Christmas tree and verbena, with touches of marrow and toasted wholegrain bread. Then sandalwood, bidis, orange peel, shallots, carrot tops, oysters and potpourri. It is the complexity that's pretty astounding here, even if you do feel that this baby's going in all directions, more or less. Joyful old rum. Mouth: dry as an Ardbeg and tarry as a Port Ellen. Having said that, no malt whisky could ever get as salty as this, even old Bowmore barrels 'rolled in the waters to the puffers'. Olives, anchovies, onion soup, miso, toddy. Nothing wrong. Finish: same for a long time. The saltiness is incredible. Onion soup, leek soup, ramson, anchovies in brine… Do we love this! Comments: this make is sometimes called 'Enmore VSG'. Versailles Distillery/Plantation operated until around 1978 (some say 1968 but there), when their still was moved to Enmore, then to Diamond when Enmore closed in its turn, in 1993. So in theory, you could find Versailles from Versailles, Versailles from Enmore (such as this very one), and Versailles from Diamond.
SGP:463 - 91 points |
Why not have a very last one and fly to Marie-Galante? I mean, fly to Guadeloupe, then take the next boat to Marie-Galante? What would you say? |
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Bielle 2009/2021 (52.5%, Tamosi Sawaku, Marie-Galante)
A slightly esoteric bottle, but we haven't got anything against that, on the contrary. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: extremely agricole, with toasted breads, roasted nuts, a drop of diesel oil, hints of cabbage soup, asparagus soup, mushrooms, sandalwood… Gets then rounder and much jammier, I'm finding bananas, tamarind, quinces… Quinces always win it, do they not. With water: superb mentholy essences and woods, especially eucalyptus, wormwood and verbena. This should fight any headache, just put one drop on each temple. Mouth (neat): Bielle equals class and this is no exception, even if it's a rather gentler one. Well not that gentle, as the liquorice remains heavy, and so does the cinnamon and the many aromatic herbs, especially lemony ones. Citronella and such, lemon-flavoured white nougat (just a sin)... With water: a tad on the woody side, but do sandal and cedar really count? Finish: rather long, full of aromatic herbs and softer, citrusy spices. Yuzu jam and kaffir lime curd. Cinnamon and chocolate in the aftertaste, that's the wood speaking out. Comments: unusual, brilliant drop from that wonderful little island.
SGP:462 - 89 points |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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February 25, 2022 |
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Two wee malts from and for Ukraine |
To our Ukrainian friends. |
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Westport 1996/2019 (49.1%, Berry Bros. for Scyfion Choice, Ukraine, Argaman Jezreel Cask Finish, 102 bottles)
Westport is the name of Glenmorangie as a 'blended malt', while Argaman is a red grape varietal and Jezreel a well-known valley in Israel. Colour: peony gold. Nose: typical red-vinous malt whisky, with small rubbery touches and a combination with ganache, praline and stewed fruits, apricots, peaches, then Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte and a little maraschino. Whiffs of fern. Mouth: some tiny rubbery and peppery touches at first, then many leaves, teas, some bitter pine resin, some vegetal tar… Finish: rather long, with good malt – wine integration. Comments: very good, very moving. Makes you want to cry.
SGP:372 - 100 points |
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Mortlach 13 yo 2005/2018 (48.4%, Douglas Laing for Scyfion Choice, Old Particular, Ukraine, Cherna Troyanda Cask Finish, 328 bottles)
Cherna Troyanda is, as I understand it, some sweet desert wine made in Transcarpathia, Ukraine, out of pink Traminer (or savagnin rose I would suppose). Oh how I'd love to go visit that place. Colour: full gold. Nose: reminds me of several excellent ex-Sauternes malt whiskies, with touches of rose petals at first (I may be dreaming) and then nectarine and peach jams, quince jelly and various high-end honeys. Very lovely nose. Mouth: the full-bodied distillate and the thicker, sweeter wine do tango well, with notes of toasted fruitcake (my favourite, with a lot of candied cherries), then a little green pepper from the oak, I would suppose. Finish: some citrus coming through. Pink grapefruits, perhaps. Comments: the distillers should send the Wee Witchie to Ukraine, a few magic tricks may be needed. I feel the need to add that it's hard to try to joke in such circumstances.
SGP:461 - 100 points |
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February 24, 2022 |
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No fun |
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February 23, 2022 |
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Official and semi-official Kilkerran |
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Two wee whiskies from Glengyle of Campbeltown a.k.a. Kilkerran. A shame and a pity that there wouldn't be more of the make. I find them all pretty brilliant… when there's one or two.
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Kilkerran 8 yo 'Cask Strength Batch 5' (56.9%, OB, 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Casks, 2021)
Taking my time. Should be good, unless we stumble upon one of those whacky sherry casks. Bourbon or refill are always rather extraordinary, sherry's less consistent, in my humble opinion. Colour: full gold. Nose: bone-dry Madeira wine, a lot of leather, fig leaves, assorted musty notes, soot, then massive old walnuts (no politicians in particular) and litres of amontillado. The strength keeps it a little shier, perhaps, really curious about what will happen once water's been added. The jury's still out at the moment. With water: mud, hose saddle, compost, cowshed, then coffee and raw chocolate. Touch of sulphur, perhaps, but that's more than okay here. Mouth (neat): salted walnut wine, burnt tofu (in miso), more madeira, some heavier manzanilla pasada, some kind of dry rancio, bitter almonds… With water: rather extreme. I keep finding it rather remarkable that they wouldn't have started to make something completely different from cousins Springbank. Madeira, mustard, fino, walnuts, brine, burnt sugar and chocolate… Finish: long, bitter and salty soup. Comments: un-boring, pretty love-it-or-hate-it. Guess what…
SGP:373 - 88 points |
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Kilkerran 5 yo 2015/2021 (57.3%, Cadenhead, Annual Shop Release 2021, Campbeltown, sherry hogshead, 306 bottles)
Still curious… And if they bottled it at the ripe old age of 5, I suppose there was something special. Colour: full gold. Nose: cleaner and brighter, fresher, peatier, with just touches of UHU glue and a wee bag of lemon drops, then beach sand, seawater, chalk and just tiny whiffs of cabbage. No need to use the S world this time. Someone well-intentioned may have also tried to smoke some fudge. With water: ah love this. Mushrooms, cow stable, rotting fruits, soy sauce and umami sauce, manzanilla again (and again), mussels… Mouth (neat): very peaty. We know the mind works in mysterious ways, but I cannot not think of that distillery on Islay that also starts with 'Kil…' Some leathery dried fish or something, chen-pi (dried tangerine skins), orange squash, simply fish chowder, then the obligatory green walnuts and these tiny bits of leather. Punk whisky. With water: great salty fun. You could use this to season seafood, perhaps clams… Finish: long, a tad leathery and soapy this time again (but we're more than fine), all the rest being perfectly salty, coastal, and peaty. Comments: much peatier than the official 8. A true young wonder, a Tal Wilkenfeld of malt whisky. Check her with Jeff Beck, when she was really young.
SGP:366 - 90 points |
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February 22, 2022 |
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Ben Nevis, second flight, still too high |
The main problem with Ben Nevis, in my opinion, is that you cannot have enough of them. Hence, in truth and by law, I believe the bottlers should be obliged to add a specific warning to the labels. Right, or at least to the back labels. You got it, we needed more and we had more… |
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Ben Nevis 22 yo 1999/2021 (46.5%, Liquid Pleasures and Nanyang Whisky Singapore, hogshead, cask #307)
Colour: white wine. Nose: bam, we're immediately sent to Sanlucar de Barrameda, with that magical combo that involves fresh walnuts, mustard and seawater. Incredible. In the middle distance, rather the usual chalk, porridge and light vanilla. And then farer in the background, paraffin, ashes, soot and lemons. No-thing-to-add. Mouth: feels bigger and tighter than just 46%. Ashes and chalk in the front this time, then white pepper and lemon zests, then, indeed, a blend of a perfect manzanilla and a very good vin jaune. Mustard, walnuts, salt, etcetera. Finish: long and superbly dry. More chalk, licking limestone, green lemons… Comments: you could almost call this wonderful one Benzanilla. Indeed, no shame at all.
SGP:362 - 90 points. |
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Ben Nevis 25 yo 1996/2021 (49%, Fadandel, refill sherry butt, cask #447, 470 bottles)
Alert, this one's pretty dark. No manzanilla this time, I would suppose… Colour: dark amber. Nose: chestnuts roasted in the fireplace and cigar ashes at first, then lots of flints and partly burnt bits of charcoal. Chocolate and paraffin kicking in then, garden peat, robusta coffee (very chocolaty), then west-coast amontillado. Partly manzanilla, partly oloroso. Remember, an appellation such as manzanilla does not refer to where the grapes are grown, rather to where the wine matures. It's like if you would mature Glenkinchie on Islay and then call it 'Islay whisky'. More or less… With water: pure old-school Ben Nevis, meaty and almost a little sulphury. Mouth (neat): we're close to some ancient OBs. Loads of tobacco, plasticine, chocolate, salty charcuterie, ashes, old walnuts and tabasco. With water: superb. Medicinal lemon and myrtle liqueurs, salty bouillon, chocolate (mole), bitter coffee and spices, marmalade. Finish: long, really bitter, in a lovely way. Holly eau-de-vie, ristretto and salty ashes. Very bitter aftertaste, you like or you don't. Comments: I do, it makes me think of some old rusty machinery.
SGP:363 - 90 points. |
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Ben Nevis 18 yo 1996/2015 (51.8%, Chapter 7, bourbon hogshead, cask #2/(19/14), 272 bottles)
An older bottling, probably long gone. I mean, not available anymore. Colour: light gold. Nose (neat): salty and briny, with a lot of thyme and eucalyptus essence, camphor, ripe bananas, IPA and cedar wood. This one was much gentler. With water: more towards paraffin, raw wool, limestone and just a few sultanas. Unexpected sultanas. Mouth: smoked tea, roasted nuts, pipe tobacco and roasted pine nuts. absolutely excellent. Terrific echoes of smoked citrus, lime tea, more thyme essence (rather tea), beer with a little mint (they make that in the Alps), the usual walnuts, a touch of violet liqueur, genepy and verbena… With water: ashes coming to the front. Finish: long, saltier, with even more ashes, lemon, and bone-dry sauvignon blanc. Comments: probably a little gentler. What's so wrong with gentleness these days?
SGP:452 - 89 points. |
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Ben Nevis 23 yo 1996/2020 (47.6%, The Whisky Agency, hogshead, 264 bottles)
We do have the feeling that this session won't be going down anytime soon. As they say in rock and roll, let ourselves go… Colour: white wine. Nose: rather more on citrus, ashy limoncello, then those mangos that are not uncommon in these vintages, nectarines vine peaches, maracuja… At times you would believe we're in Ireland. It's true that Fort Williams isn't that far from Northern Ireland, is it? Just follow Loch Linnhe and swim towards the south… Mouth: indeed, a salty and tropical Ben Nevis. We'll keep this very short, without this tiny wee dustiness in the background, we'd have gone even higher. Finish: incredible tropical fruits. Very much in the style of the best unsherried 1996. Comments: some ravishing delight. Will that do?
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
We're about to hope that we'll find a bad one. Almost… (remember Disraeli paraphrased by Whiskyfun, one gets so bored with good whisky!) |
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Ben Nevis 1996/2021 (53.6%, SCSM, for Guangzhou Single Cask Single Malt, hogshead, cask #80, 220 bottles)
Some Ben Nevis for China! Colour: gold. Nose: a more active cask, which translates into more custard and butterscotch. All the rest is rather on the 'gentler' side of Ben Nevis, with some fern, walnuts and ashes. Plus candlewax and zests. Water may change things… With water: acacia honey, honeysuckle, beeswax, marzipan… Indeed this is rather gentler. No spent engine oil and rusty old boats to be seen here. Mouth (neat): superb rounder, more citrusy, more liqueury Ben Nevis. The mangos, oranges and peaches are back. Sooty ashes in the background. With water: some salty medicinal and lemony notes ala older Laphroaig. Ashes in the background. Finish: long, curiously bigger and tighter, more robust, more Fort Williams (what?) Comments: loved the way it went from Carole King to Iggy Pop. I know, I know…
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
We're still too high, we're going to run out of kerosen… |
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Ben Nevis 14 yo 1996 (46%, Dram Mor for TWM, cask #002, 237 bottle)
Some funny bottle that, apparently, has been released long after it was bottled. That's the Champagne way, in a way, and I'm sure it would be a better, albeit much costlier solution in many cases. Bottle when ready, release when even more ready. Colour: gold. Nose: metal polish, orange liqueur, paraffin and turpentine, ski waxes, Barbour grease and just new plastics. Future generations won't even know what that means. Mouth: so-good. More raisins in this one, both roasted and fresh ones, beeswax, yellow chartreuse, one oyster, one lemon, the ashes from one cigarette, and a sublime drop herbal oil, with some parsley, sorrel and sage. Finish: long, perfect. Comments: reminds me of the very best batches of the official 10. In 'dram mor' there's both dram and more. No wonder.
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
Mayday, we'll never make it to the airport… |
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Ben Nevis 8 yo 2012/2021 (52.7%, Morisco Spirit, refill hogshead)
This one for our friends in Italy. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: always a joy to stumble upon a young, quasi-immature Ben Nevis that' full of smoked pears. It reminds me of the 6 years old (6!) by LMDW that we tried, when was that? Right, yesterday… You may check that note. With water: williams pears and stearin. Wool and porridge too. Mouth (neat): try to blend linseed oil with lemon liqueur and manzanilla wine. With water: good laughs, crushed sardines and anchovies, citrons, passion fruits (already!?) and one oyster. A drop of cider. Finish: long – BN is always long – and saltier yet. Saltier than the saltiest Bowmores, to give you an idea. Comments: wasn't 2012 last year? This isn't funny, but it's very good.
SGP:652 - 89 points. |
Since we're in 2012… (Obama, Cameron, Merkel, Putin…) |
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Ben Nevis 8 yo 2012/2021 (59.9%, Golden Cask for The Whisky Barrel, cask #278, 315 bottles)
I think we've had a sister cask just yesterday, but that's a long time ago already. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: lovage and butterscotch, miso, croissants and chalk. And williams pears. With water: gets a tad chalky and muddy, in a good way. Wool and mud. Mouth (neat): woo-ooh, williams pear spirit and kirschwasser, plus peat, mezcal and chalk. Brilliant. A large mezcal session soon on Whiskyfun, perhaps to celebrate Spring and the complete crushing of the French far-right. With water: huge saltiness, a goldfish would believe it just swallowed seawater. Finish: long, fresh, salty, coastal. Almost cold fish bouillon with oyster juice. Comments: feels a little peated. Great spirit at any age anyway.
SGP:363 - 87 points. |
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Ben Nevis 25 yo 1996/2021 (53.6%, Liquid Treasures and Acla Selection, hogshead, cask #1747, 170 bottles)
So, this is partly Swiss. Colour: light gold. Nose: embarrassingly great. It's to be wondered if on the axis of wax (remember, HP, Cly, BN, Springbank), BN is not winning it. Amazing cough syrup, embrocation, camphor and burning church candles. Amen. With water: fresh teak, bidis, eucalyptus, paraffin. Mouth (neat): ultra-tight and full of juniper essence and thyme. Yet another style, while the greasy and chalky side of BN would have been preserved. With water: wax, turpentine, pine resin, kelp and oysters and drops of old Dutch genever. Any resemblance to real Dutch persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental. Finish: long, waxy, herbal. Apple peal and lemon zests in the aftertaste. Comments: unbeatable make.
SGP:562 - 89 points. |
A last one please… Why not one by our dear friend The Sponge (who's just become a father, as any sensible whisky enthusiasts would know)… |
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Ben Nevis 15 yo 2005/2021 (48.5%, WhiskySponge, refill hogshead, 322 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: a much gentler Ben Nevis, with even some candy sugar, cakes, bananas flambéed and pancake syrup. A little icing sugar and a bag of jelly babies. Great move to suggest such an easier, fruitier variation on BN. Mouth: good in the best sense of that word and just as odd. Swiss cheese and all-fruit juice, mutton suet, sour fruit juices, smoked porridge (just add a few drops of Laphroaig to some porridge and voilà), carbon, smoked cheese (they must be doing that in Jura, some kind of Morbier perhaps…) An odd, deviant, almost poetic if not surrealistic BN by our dear friend The Sponge. Finish: medium, on stewed vegetables. Eggplants and artichokes. Very salty and sour aftertaste. Comments: some kind of statement, I would presume, unless this would be a matter of a fairly zany vintage. Great fun anyway, as always at The Sponge's.
SGP:462 - 85 points. |
Good, that's 18 Ben Nevis altogether. General conclusion, whenever you spot a Ben Nevis, first you buy, then you think (toy think if you really must, that's the optional part). |
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February 21, 2022 |
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Another avalanche of Ben Nevis |
Please note that we're not talking about an avalanche ON Ben Nevis. It's always with much joy that we're having a go at a bunch of malt whiskies from Ben Nevis; to think that in the old days, it was almost easier to try the make as a component of some Japanese whiskies… |
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We'll do this session randomly and not vertically or by ascending strength. |
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Ben Nevis 24 yo 1996/2021 (45.6%, Duckhammers & Fine Spirits for Wu Dram Clan, hogshead, cask #1408, 290 bottles)
Ouch, I'm afraid we could be way too high already. A figure of speech, naturally. Now starting with a benchmark could make for a good idea too (grasping at straws). Colour: straw. Nose: wham! Spent engine oil, sauvignon blanc, olive oil, pineapple wine, grapefruit juice, candles, soot, moist plaster, vin jaune… Too high, we're too high… Mouth: splendid already, salty, full of capers, olives, chalk, then mangos and papayas juice. Then paraffin, as expected. We're keeping this short but we love it. Finish: the sauvignon blanc is back. Great white Sancerre, appropriately salty and chalky too. Comments: right up my avenue. I'll say it again, we're too fast… These ex-hogshead 1996s are often part of the greatest malt whiskies made in the 1990s. With a toast to Colin Ross. It's to be noted that a sister cask had been bottled as an official private expression (#1407) but I don't think we'll have it today. By the way, given the label, I was sure we'd find some mezcal in this one...
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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Ben Nevis 6 yo 2014/2021 (57.1%, La Maison du Whisky, Collective 5.0)
Outstanding label, you would believe we're at the Maeght Foundation in Saint-Paul de Vence. Hope the very young whisky will be from the same cloth, so to speak. Colour: gold. Nose: I find it a little Clynelishy, with a buttery waxiness then butter cream and fresh raisin rolls. Quite some fudge too, as if the cask had been pretty active, then simply some big whiffs of manzanilla, with possibly a few dollops of lighter-style Jamaican rum. Young and not immature at all. With water: doughier, chalkier, with more soot and porridge. Mouth (neat): the youth feels. Imagine someone would have blended some white Hampden with some pear juice, olive oil, lemon juice, orange juice, mead and just candied zests. Very tight, almost thick, very good (I think). They made the youth an asset, it seems. With water: pretty sublime. What an utterly perfect spirit! Finish: long, on lemons, lime leaves, wax, lemons and chalk. Comments: dazzled, I am (but not confused, ha). One of the top-five distillates in SCO these days.
SGP:652 - 89 points. |
We're still too high, are we not… |
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Ben Nevis 17 yo 2003/2021 (55.3%, Blackadder for Malt Whisky H.K. and HNWS Taiwan, hogshead, cask #379, 260 bottles)
Colour: light gold. Nose: holy Suzy, this is a fatter one again, whilst rather serendipitously, we'd navigate between the 1996 and the 2003 style-wise. Which, I agree, would make sense (every time I'm trying any whiskies from Blackadder's, I feel like I'm Baldrick). Perfect white Sancerre matured in a fresh pièce. With water: unusual, on lees, leaves, green tea and vase water. Fresh bark, salsify perhaps, stalks… Sancerre indeed. Mouth (neat): a little more on many citrus and green spices, and rather less on waxes, chalks and soot. Still, quite some dough and fruit peel, especially green banana peel. With water: the sootiness is back. Green tea, leaves, then some greener honey. Fir? Finish: long, on green bananas and green teas. Lovely camphory notes in the aftertaste, also mint tea and a touch of salt. Comments: another great variation on BN. Great fun, great whisky, bordering perfection.
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
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Ben Nevis 25 yo 1996/2021 (51.1%, The Whisky Exchange, hogshead)
I have a bad feeling, we should remain in the whisky stratosphere here. Still too high ('randomly', he said), we could call this a Concorde session. Colour: gold. Nose: hell and putrefaction! Mangos, beeswax, fresh-squeezed oranges, pistachio oil, then chalk and wool. Yeah yeah yeah… With water: tiny flowers and herbs, woodruff, honeysuckle, violets, blue mallows… Then pink bananas and blood oranges. Slaughter. Mouth (neat): pah-pah-pah-pah-pah… Old Bushmills plus Lochside and Clynelish. Pah-pah-pah-pah-pah (no, no money back, ever). … With water: oh! Acacia honey, orange juice, barley syrup, agave syrup, those tiny edible flowers, grenadine syrup… Finish: medium, and frankly sweet now. There, some mentholy paraffin in the aftertaste. Comments: thinking of our friends in London. Hope they kept all the bottles for themselves and that they're currently quaffing them away… By the way, this was a rather 'gentler' 1996 in my book.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
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Ben Nevis 8 yo 2012/2021 (59.9%, The Golden Cask, The Whisky Barrel exclusive, bourbon, cask #CM277, 257 bottles)
I'd like to find one BN that would be more brutal. Hurt me, Ben Nevis! (heeeey)… Colour: pale white wine, there you go. Nose: eau-de-vie de barley. Candlewax, fresh hazelnuts, sunflower oil, one olive, a touch of cardamom and Thai basil. This is different indeed, possibly pretty subtle, let's see. With water: touches of seawater coming though, whelks, a little rubber (or tyres)… Mouth (neat): oh, no, it's great, even if almost totally on vanilla, williams pears and mezcal. I'd have never thought you could blend williams pear eau-de-vie and mezcal. Note to self: try that right tonight. With water: more of the same, plus a saltiness. Pears and salt, I'd have never thought that would work… Finish: long, still eau-de-vie-ish. Comments: we often tell that the main difference between whisky and rum is the fact that you can have rum 'white'. Well, you may have some whiskies 'white' too. I mean, almost white. Brilliant Ben Nevis, once again, just a little simpler, which is normal. Great bottle.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
We've got more Golden Casks but we'll have them later. A few weeks of glass-aging won't do them any harm ;-). |
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Ben Nevis 25 yo (51.2%, The Whisky Show London 2021, 100 bottles)
One hundred bottles, that isn't much. Colour: lighter gold. Nose: some well-aged manzanilla, really. Chalk, mustard, seawater, green walnuts, chalk, mustard, seawater, green walnuts, chalk, mustard, seawater, green walnuts, chalk… (I think they got it, S.). With water: acetone and varnish! Hey! Mouth (neat): a little brutal, almost rustic, but stunningly manzanilla-y once again. More green pepper than in the others. With water: an extravagant saltiness. I'm afraid we'll have to mention manzanilla once more. Finish: long but a little gentler and rounder. Paraffin and vanilla, walnut oil in the aftertaste. More walnut oil too. Comments: I would suppose this was another 1996. Well, it was rather less civilised than its siblings. And by the way, where's the rest of the cask? PS I love it (drop cinema, S.)
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
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Ben Nevis 1996/2021 (52.8%, The Whisky Jury, sherry butt, cask #1773, 354 bottles)
More sister casks, what a sibship indeed, although this would be a butt. It's funny that some bottlers would call themselves 'Jury', I had thought the jury would be us consumers. Bah, that's all very charming, really… Colour: deep gold. Nose: the first sherried Ben Nevis where the sherry actually feels, I would say. Walnuts are up, so are oranges, tobaccos, chocolates, paprika, even turmeric (gently), bark… It is also relatively earthier than the others. With water: gets wonderfully dustier and earthier. Not sure that was necessary, but since someone filled this cask, back in 1996… Some Jamaican coffee too. Mouth (neat): this one's the closest to the 'average' OBs. I mean, within this session. Grenadine and strawberry syrup, anyone? And leather, oloroso, tobacco, salty soups… With water: a lovely bouillony saltiness, but we have the impression that this is a little tautological. Finish: long, with some plastics, mustard, paraffin and mustard. Comments: utterly awesome but a little tough. A dirty cask on a dirty spirit (I may have to find a better word than 'dirty'). Pleasure factor down.
SGP:362 - 86 points. |
Please a bourbon hogshead… |
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Ben Nevis 24 yo 1997/2021 (53%, Chapter 7, Monologue, bourbon hogshead, cask #30, 229 bottles)
Colour: light gold. Nose: this one's rather more buttery, there are also notes of cream cheese, porridge, sourdough, then cocoa and coal dust. Tends to become very chocolaty. With water: herbs and fern, cocoa powder, sage, some kind of herbal dust. Are we really sure this wasn't ex-sherry? Mouth (neat): superb, rich and tight at the same time, with almost something Ardbeggian. Chocolate made with olive oil – of course that exists, just check L'Espérantine de Marseille. Now if that exists indeed, it's not too good, this whisky is much better IMHO. With water: we're almost on Islay, this is almost a plain peater, as if the hogshead had been ex-Ardbeg indeed. Ardbeg wood un-rinsed-out. Finish: long, with much more citrus. Lovely lemony finish. Comments: an adventurous malt, as they used to say in brochures. Stunning lemons and green pepper in the aftertaste.
SGP:653 - 88 points. |
Eight superb-to-stunning Ben Nevisses, that's a great deal. So, see you, we might have many more BNs in the very close future, stay tuned. And peace. |
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February 20, 2022 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
Another day of rums
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There's more and more rums and brandies crossing the threshold of Whiskyfun Towers, but I've long decided to only have those on Sundays. This is Whiskyfun and it'll remain Whiskyfun. Let's find a 'funny' apéritif…
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Naga 10 yo 'Siam Edition' (40%, OB, Indochina (?), +/-2021)
This funny one reeks of colonialist-nostalgic marketing. I mean, Siam has become Thailand in 1939, and Indochina (Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia) was disbanded in 1954. I find this even worse than all those fake Caribbean brands that would sing the praises of various unlikely 'heroes of the revolucion' everyone's forgotten about. Anyway, this 'might' be some light Thai rum, possibly from SangSom. The Khmer-inspired packaging is lovely, I have to say. Colour: gold. Nose: no, it's relatively fine albeit very light, with some orange syrup, candy sugar and melons. Mouth: no sugar bomb (check), very light, not unpleasant, with oranges and a little sugarcane juice. A few cls of Frappuccino (apologies). Finish: short, orangey, relatively clean. Comments: a very light drop that would be in the same category as that of the entry-level Bacardis, Havana Clubs, Brugals and all that. I had thought this would be much worse and am believing that it would stand some 46% vol.
SGP:530 - 76 points. |
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Novo Fogo 3 yo 'Batch 1' (41.2%, That Boutique-y Rum Company, cachaça, Brazil, 550 bottles, +/-2021)
Oh but indeed, this is cachaça, so rum made from fresh cane juice. Some are very industrial, others being very artisanal. Some exotic wood are also used, such as, in this very case, some kind of teak called amburana. We've always wanted to learn a lot more about cachaça, but I'm afraid we never got around to it. One day, perhaps. Colour: straw. Nose: this is plain caramel liqueur at first sniffs. Someone would have roasted Mars bars and thrown a little camphor into this whacky mix. Some tar too, and some liquorice. Plus a little rubber and pinewood. Mouth: I cannot not think of tequila, but this has more burnt notes, deep-roasted raisins, some rubbers, plastics perhaps, more caramel, some salty and sour herbs, rubbery brine… It does feel a little 'bacterial'. Finish: rather long, saltier yet, resinous, sour, and indeed a little bacterial. Sweet cheeses and burnt olives. Comments: great fun and rather uncharted territories to us, even if we've tried a few cachaças before. Great fun indeed.
SGP:372 - around 82 points. |
Since we were having cachaça… |
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Sapucaia Velha 10 yo (40.3%, Cadenhead, Malternative Release, 414 bottles, 2019)
Cane juice distilled in pot stills. Colour: white wine. Nose: good fun this time again. Say pastis or ouzo, plus olive oil and fennel liqueur. Some fermenting fruits, peaches, melons, bananas… Some good esters in there. Mouth: a tad flattish and rather on vegetables, gherkins, crushed olives, sorb, green asparagus, artichokes, bamboo shoots, artisan mead… Finish: shortish, on salted vegetables, capers, gherkins, lemon juice, and a funny drop of fino. Rather sweet mustard and mead in the aftertaste. Comments: much less caramel in this one. Should anyone ever try to distil olives, this might be kind of the end result. I'm sure this would kill at +/-46% vol.
SGP:462 - around 82 points. |
That's enough cachaça already. |
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L'Arbre du Voyageur 3 yo (53.5%, Chantal Comte, La Mauny, Martinique, 3000 bottles, +/-2019)
This one by some very engaging, sympathetic and humble people. Colour: gold. Nose: not a lot happening at this point. Some aniseed, pure cane juice, we're pretty close to good white agricole, in fact. Ylang-ylang. With water: not too sure it would swim well, I'm finding some metallic touches that do not work too well in this context. Zamac. Mouth (neat): good, a tad rough and liquoricy, with some earthy liquorice allsorts and a good olive-y cane-iness. We're at the bone of agricoleness. With water: gets bone-dry, very earthy, extremely cane-y. Finish: long, dry and very grassy. Crazy cane juice. Some soapiness and just cologne in the aftertaste. Comments: let's be honest, this is probably one of the purest and most challenging sugarcane-led rums I've tried in recent years.
SGP:362 - 85 points. |
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Rum Orator 2016/2019 (66.9%, Orator, Paraguay, barrel #2, 90 bottles)
Some crazy Swiss bottling at a murderous strength. Colour: gold. Nose: windshield washer fluid and olive oil aged in American oak. Well, that's what I'm getting at this, err, murderous strength. With water: Gruyeres cheese, black olives, carbon paper and shampoo. Quite an adventurous drop indeed. Mouth (neat): Paraguay? Was this made by the good folks who are also making Fortin? It is very extreme, brutal, salty, full of plastics and new electronics. In short, difficult, but remember (cough), almost 67% vol. Assassins! With water: pear juice and engine oil, plus toffee and caramel. Not a classic combo, but it's got its charms. Finish: someone's been smoking pears, apparently. Williams pear eau-de-vie aged in olive wood. No, really. Comments: great fun, but what was that, exactly? Do they make estery rum in Paraguay?
SGP:462 - around 83 points. |
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Foursquare 9 yo 2011/2021 (62.3%, Wealth Solutions, Barbados, The Colours of Rum, N°6, cask #19, 246 bottles)
This baby was aged in the tropics for 5 years, then in Mother Europe. Colour: gold. Nose: typical, dense on the one side, lighter and more columny on the other side. Good easy pastries, with vanilla and the Frenchest croissants. With water: cornflakes. It's to be wondered if this wasn't 100% ex-column FS. Mouth (neat): the columny, lighter side of Foursquare feels first at such high strength, I would suppose the more oily parts need water and oxygen to shine out. In other words, the strongest, the lightest. Pancake sauce and jelly babies. With water: no, it's really light, easy, sweet, on cereals, Fruit Loops… Finish: medium, sweet and rather thin. Comments: one of the lightest Foursquares I've tried. Very good drop, but I wouldn't say there is much backbone. Not a proper malternative, in any case.
SGP:530 - 80 points. |
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Clarendon 37 yo 1984/2021 (62%, Thompson Bros. & The Auld Alliance, Jamaica)
Marque was MMW and this is pure pot still rum. It was kept under reggae for 34 years and met with bagpipe rock and roll only three years ago. What a shock. Naturally, you could as well call this Monymusk. Colour: red cedarwood. Nose: appropriately acetic, acetone-y, and just totally varnishy. Rotting pineapples and, indeed, cedarwood, nail polish, and gherkins/olives. With water: dried jujubes and figs, which is gentler, we agree. Praline, drop of moscatel, a bit of ham. Mouth (neat): extreme tannins, black raisins, pine oil, salmiak, teak and glue. Sends shivers down your spine. With water: diesel oil, black olives, carbon, cedarwood shavings, and the blackest black chocolate, 90% cocoa or more. Finish: long, bone-dry, salty, with carbon dust, artichokes and Himalayan-monastery black tea. The aftertaste is extremely dry and bitter, at any strength. Comments: a rather provocative bottling. I mean, you can't quite sip it like that, you have to fight it. Holy featherless crow, what a bitter monster!
SGP: 272- 85 Points? |
No other rum could ever 'climb over' that ueber-extreme Clarendon, so we say good night/good day, see you soon. Unless, hold on... |
First, the usual apéritif at easy strength… |
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Mount Gay 'Black Barrel' (43%, Barbados, bourbon casks, +/-2020)
Not the first time were trying this little Bajan. I used to find it a tad thin (around WF 79). Having said that it's got nothing to do with W. Grant's 'Black Barrel', which used to be grain from Girvan if I'm not mistaken. Colour: gold. Nose: in the style of a lighter agricole, with nice cane-y notes and a few floral tones (ylang-ylang, orange blossom) on top of a little candy sugar and bananas flambéed. A little fudge and liquorice too. Mouth: good and easy, starting well on sugar cane and even tiny touches of grassy esters, but losing steam while some saltiness would appear at the same time, which I find a little frustrating. Finish: rather short, on salted orange liqueur, should anyone ever try that. Comments: not exactly watery but you cannot not think of Foursquare, whilst Foursquare has more knack. Unchanged.
SGP:541 - 79 points. |
Since we've mentioned agricole… |
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Bellevue 23 yo 1998/2021 (55.2%, Nobilis Rum, Guadeloupe, 252 bottles)
Speaking of Foursquare, this is actually a single blend of vesou (cane must) and molasses distilled in a column, so not rhum agricole. I know, nothing to do with Foursquare, actually. Colour: deep gold. Nose: rather immense and intense, with the kind of esters that you would rather find in Jamaica or Trinidad, if you see what I mean. Now it's not a '500+' at all, naturally, but I just adore these petroly and olive-y notes, as well as this acetone, fresh paint and putty, new 33rpm, assorted rotting fruits, and just fresh-squeezed (or rather crushed) cane juice. With water: gets grassier, more herbal, kind of gentler. Mildly gentler. Someone's inadvertently poured diesel oil over nestle, sorrel and green bananas. Mouth (neat): Incredible. Aniseed and salted liquorice just all over the place, plus black olives and tobacco dust. With water: getting chalky. Malt enthusiasts special: it would be a Ben Nevis of rhum of some sort. Finish: long, this time with nots of oranges. Otherwise liquorice, olives, tar and brine. Comments: I was having it at 90.5 (oh come on) but this is a good day. Always check the BBs (Bielle and Bellevue).
SGP:463 - 91 points. |
Since we keep mentioning Foursquare… |
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Foursquare 2011/2021 (61.7%, Wealth Solutions, Barbados, The Colours of Rum, No.11, cask #20, 239 bottles)
So, most probably a self-blend of ex-column and ex-pot still molasses-based rums. It spent 5 years in the tropics, the rest in Europe. Colour: gold. Nose: much gentler, more on vegetal oils, pumpkin, peanut, sunflower… Some honeysuckle and elderflowers, praline fudge, macchiato and custard. Indeed, gentle. With water: quite some varnish escaping from your glass. Cane juice, sesame oil, cut hay… Mouth (neat): very typical, with crushed bananas and a tiny touch of pear, bonbons, Werther's Originals and just plain Scottish fudge flavoured with oranges. With water: a little pine resin at first, then a perfect averageness, which is an asset here. Well it is not average, it is balanced. Finish: medium, with soft liquorice in cappuccino and fudge. A wee drop of bonbony varnish in the aftertaste. Comments: perhaps a tad young? Otherwise just excellent.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
I think we've mentioned Caroni too, no? |
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Caroni 23 yo 1998/2021 (56.8%, The Whisky Jury for Spring Spirits , barrel #45, 288 bottles)
Colour: deep gold – amber. Nose: smoke some Werther's Originals using beech wood and add a touch of juniper and you'll recreate this. Congrats. With water: new tyres and scuba diving suits, plus a boy-size pack of strawberry drops. No, this is not Port Ellen 20 yo. Mouth (neat): some sweet rubber this time, and smoked Swiss cheese indeed. This is very unusual, it reminds of when we used to throw cream cheese (La Vache Qui Rit) on the bonfire when I was a boy-scout. Or was it when I was a corporal in the army? Well I'm joking a bit, this is much better. Big rubbery and smoky chocolate and orange combo. Barbecued Jaffa cakes? With water: classic salty and herbal rubbery unfolding. Sweeter rubber, school glue… Finish: long, saltier. Dry green olives kicking in, probably Spanish (come on). Liquorice in the aftertaste. Comments: a tad unusual or even deviant, but as good as it gets.
SGP:363 - 90 points. |
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Rhum J.M 1999/2021 (43.6%, OB for Kirsch Import, Martinique, bourbon, cask #180007)
It's fab to see more J.M single casks popping out here and there. Bring out the Neissons! Colour: amber. Nose: acetone, capers, ammonia, olives, rotting bananas, pine resin, then Thai basil, coconut sauce and nougat. Extraordinary, flabbergasting nose, only to be experienced in the best agricoles of good age. And in Martinique, Doudou. Mouth: the oak feels this time and at times you wouldn't even be sure this is not cognac or armagnac. No once you get past these heavy resinous and mentholy teas, you'll find many small herbs and flowers, chamomile, rosehip, peppermint, sorrel, borage… Finish: medium, getting medicinal. That's the 'old' wood speaking out. Comments: some excruciating dilemma. The nose was out of this world, while the palate was about-to-start-to-get tired (IMHO, as we used to say when the Internet was still civilised).
SGP:561 - 87 points (nose easily 92 or more). |
To the other side please… |
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Rhum J.M 2015/2021 (55.1%, OB for Kirsch Import, Martinique, bourbon, cask #200376)
Colour: red amber. Nose: this was to be expected, we're finding some bourbon this time (Pappy and stuff), varnish, roasted sesame and peanut, caramel… With water: nail polish remover and brand new Nikes at first, then fern and fig leaves, green bananas, 'a Saturday morning at IKEA's' (happy divorce my friend!) and a newly-build sauna (welcome back). Mouth (neat): a little dry and grassy, with some acridness, oversteeped black tea, tobacco, conifer saps, green banana skin… Actually, I like this, in case you haven't noticed. With water: strong teas, some tannicity, more banana skins… Finish: long, still varnishy and grassy. Cough syrup and just menthol and fir resin and cedarwood in the aftertaste. Comments: a feeling of young bourbon from Martinique. Absolutely excellent, but five or six years are five or six years (woo-hoo, S.!)
SGP:371 - 85 points. |
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Caroni 22 yo 1998 (62.5%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, Trinidad, 1st fill bourbon barrel, #R13.3, 'Havana, Madagascar and Tahiti', 267 bottles, +/-2021)
What's the link between Trinidad-and-Tobago and 'Havana, Madagascar and Tahiti', unless you're a stamp-collector? Colour: gold. Nose: marvillioso, old-school, thick and heavy, with indeed, maybe, they are right, something Cuban. Old dark Havana Club or old Santiago de Cuba. Other than that, this lighter Caroni is still ridden with smoky chocolate and tarry coffee. With water: something acetic coming out, this is well Caroni. Varnish lemon oil, thyme and leek. Mouth (neat): so good. Pinewood, tapenade (olive paste), aioli (garlic paste), anchoïade (anchovy paste), some smoky toffee, tar, rubber, varnish, lemons, plastics, glue, ink… With water: ink, bitter almonds, menthol and 'chewing plastic'. Finish: very long, more herbal. Superb tarriness in the aftertaste. Comments: just great, but Tahiti?
SGP:363 - 90 points. |
Perhaps the previous one… |
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Caroni 22 yo 1998 (62.1%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, Trinidad, 1st fill bourbon barrel, #R13.2, 'Ready Made Marmalade', 267 bottles, +/-2021)
Colour: gold. Nose: similar, obviously, just a little gentler and rounder, lighter in a way, less petroly, more on toasted oaky etcetera. With water: what 'gentler'? No, this is tight, lemony, acidic, with some tarry rubber and 'new sneakers and iPhones'. Great modern society, no? Mouth (neat): back to more acetic tastes, green lemons, varnish, mezcal… With water: tar coming out, all is well. Finish: long, a little tarrier, but still in the style of the 'lighter' Caronis. Comments: I think I liked R13.3 a little better, for it was bigger. Great selection by the very honourable SMWS in both cases, anyway. IO even think I can find the 'Ready Made Marmalade' if I 'taste closely'.
SGP:352 - 88 points. |
Perhaps a last Caroni before we call this a session… |
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Caroni 21 yo 1999/2021 (65.7%, Distilia, The Golden Age of Piracy, Blackbeard, cask #197, 228 bottles)
I had thought the golden age of piracy was right today, just ask Bezos, Sundar or Jack Ma… Anyway! Colour: amber. Nose: oh, mashed potatoes with black truffles and olive oil! Then eggplants and smoky coffee, engine grease, candy sugar, a little corn syrup, caramelised onions… With water: tight and green. Someone's smoked Brussels sprouts and called that 'rum'. A curious maltiness and more mashed potatoes. And more truffles. Mouth (neat): smashing, bone-dry and ultra-tight, almost Ardbeggian. Sublime smoky coastalness. Terrrrrific. With water: oh wow. Millimetric and vertical, petroly, tarry, wonderful. Finish: long, tarry and rubbery. No escape. Comments: perfect in the tarry style. I think we've already mentioned middle-aged Port Ellen, have we not?
SGP:373 - 92 points. |
(Merci Pierre-Alexandre and Nicolas) |
Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far |
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February 18, 2022 |
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Little Duos,
today Tamnavulin
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Not a name we're seeing very often these days, I believe it used to be bigger in the 1980s and 1990s. Proof: today we've only got two little ones in store, let's try them.
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Tamnavulin 'Tempranillo Cask Edition' (40%, OB, +/-2020)
A little NAS finished in one the strongest red wines, what could go wrong? Remember, tempranillo is the varietal that's giving us the famous red Riojas. Colour: gold, not pink, and not even salmony/apricotty. Nose: as unusual as we were expecting, rather on peach and pear leaves, tomato leaves as well, then more earthy wood (barrel) and cassis, fruits and buds. Enters then more and more beer territories, which comes just as unexpected, but that would rather be Kriek and double-IPA. Mouth: a bizarre drop on the palate. Sour cherries, more Kriek, homemade mead, then wine gums and, well, a feeling of sangria. An acquired taste, shall we say. A little bitter/sour oak. Finish: short. Barrel water and more mead mixed with cherry juice. Comments: I'll never really manage to acquire this taste, I'm afraid. Please no red wine in my malt whisky (we'll have to make a T-shirt one day).
SGP:551 - 70 points. |
Please, some Tamnavulin al natural (at least the Tempranillo makes you speak Spanish, ha)… |
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Tamnavulin-Glenlivet 23 yo 1992/2015 (55%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 258 bottles)
Our very last drop of Tamnavulin, we're scraping the bottom of the barrel here (a very appropriate expression, no?) Colour: pale white wine. Nose: ten miles above that Tempranilloed NAS. Wonderful woolly nose, very chalky and extremely on sourdough, unleavened bread, fermenting plums, cellulosic varnish, then plantains and , perhaps, manioc. Wonderfully unusual this time. With water: cane juice, rainwater, grist, indeed raw wool, Mouth (neat): very rough when undiluted, as if they had filled the bottle straight from the spirit receiver. Raw kirschwasser, bitter almonds and bitter saps (or bee propolis) With water: a wee dollop of spent lees and unfiltered beer plus a feeling of ink and linseed oil in the background… Finish: medium, very good, extremely on raw barley, with just a little citrus in the aftertaste. Lemon bread. Comments: some earlier 1992s by CAD had not really been to my liking, but I find this one rather perfect. Al natural.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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February 17, 2022 |
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Little Duos, today Royal Brackla OB vs. IB |
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Classic set-up on WF. Always a joy to the taster, provided no one ever jumps to easy conclusions. Let's start this with the OB…
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Royal Brackla 12 yo (46%, OB, 2021)
Apparently and unless I'm wrong once more, this is the new-new label, even more retro than before. This baby was finished in oloroso wood while the presentation tube would make it clear that it should display 'spice, cherries and demerara'. I believe the mistake they did with the previous rendition (round blue label) was to bottle it at 40% vol. Colour: amber. Nose: and voilà, butterscotch, praline, roasted chestnuts, chocolate (creamy Lindt's), nougat and cappuccino. No one can be against this, even if this smart treatment may have erased a part of the Distillery character. I do find gooseberries in the background, having said that. Mouth: I could copy-and-paste what I have jotted down about the nose. Milk chocolate, roasted nuts, marmalade, toffee… St. Oloroso, pray for us. Finish: rather long, very good. Coffee drops and, there, since I'm in a good mood, Demerara sugar. Seriously, Demerara sugar. Comments: amen. Excellent.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
Distillery character? I'm glad I had kept this one up my sleeves… |
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Royal Brackla 16 yo 2001/2018 (46%, The Whisky Lodge, Orcines, bourbon hogshead, cask #14)
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: well, the colour was pale (the dress as we say in French, the 'robe'), but the profile remains all on toasted pastries, white chocolate, fudge, praline, cappuccino, butterscotch, custard, nougat… In truth, it's not that different. I'll add that it's always great to compare spirits that were bottled at the same ABV., since home reduction is always hard to handle (sure it is). Mouth: I mean, what's all this sorcery? Same, butterscotch, roasted nuts and toasted pastries, milk chocolate, coffee liqueur, toffee… Now what it's also got is a brighter fruitiness, with some rhubarb and, indeed, gooseberries. Extremely to my liking. Finish: long, perfect, chocolaty and nutty. No demerara this time, I'm afraid. Comments: I find this even a notch better than the OB, but it's true that it's also older. Great selection by our friends in the capital of the Gauls.
SGP:451 - 87 points. |
I'd love to do a semi-alliteration and write 'Brackla is back!' but I suppose that would be a little stupid. |
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February 16, 2022 |
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Little Duos, today Cragganmore OB vs. IB |
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| I have to confess I've only just recovered from tasting the official Cragganmore 48/1971 Prima & Ultima one year and a half ago (WF 93). That one had still been direct-fired, it was fantabulous and I'm just seeing that my conclusion has been 'where's my handkerchief?' Indeed, silly as ever, but all of my tears dried away now and I feel we're ready for a little more Cragganmore, make that one official and one very rare indie. |
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Cragganmore 2009/2021 'Distiller's Edition' (40%, OB, CggD-6573)
As usual, finished in ex-bodega Port wine casks, knowing that the word 'bodega' doesn't obligatorily refer to the Iberic peninsula. Colour: deep gold. Nose: I don't think I've ever found this many pears in any of these DEs, this is almost a whole tarte tatin with pears instead of apples. A little strawberry and raspberry (jams), pinot gris, buttered compote, rooibos tea… We're pretty far from any kind of Portness, unless that would now be white Port. Big, big tarte tatin aux pears. Or there, this very Alsatian delicacy that consists in bits of stewed pears in pear sherbet, covered with williams pear eau-de-vie. To the brim. A touch of wine vinegar too. Mouth: much maltier and more on salted walnuts, tea, bitter chocolate and tobacco, then bitter leaves. Pretty dry and bitter indeed, as I remembered it. No signs of pears on the palate, I'm afraid. Green walnuts. No traces of sweet Port wine either. Finish: short and a little dry, with cherry stems, more rooibos, then guignolet, which I always enjoy. Oak in the aftertaste, with a tiny soapy side. Comments: loved the pears on the nose (presto, on more point than usual) . The palate, as usual as well, was rather harder to pin down.
SGP:551 - 81 points. |
There are very few independent Cragganmores around these days, but I'm happy to report that we've got one! |
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Cragganmore 30 yo 1986/2017 (59.7%, Hunter Laing, Old & Rare, Platinum Selection, refill hogshead, 167 bottles)
Our dear Platinums… Colour: pale gold. Nose: a little hot when neat, rather on kirschwasser aged in oak, vanilla, some fennel bread perhaps… I would suppose the high ABV kind of blocks it a little bit. So, with water: gets waxier, with also some grape pip oil, then rather almond milk, almond peel, just cut apples, green tea, a drop of manzanilla sherry, green walnuts, fresh sorrel… Surely not much to do with any of the officials that we know of. Mouth (neat): rather on plum eau-de-vie this time, perhaps mirabelle eau-de-vie, with once again a touch of fennel, perhaps absinth, bitter almonds, kirschwasser indeed… Good feelings here, even if it remains a little hot and raw when undiluted. With water: this is the best part; you just have to really enjoy high-class green teas. Very complex now, with myriads of tiny herbs, leaves, branches, roots… In short, green tea. Finish: same. A little more straight greenish/freshish oak in the aftertaste. Comments: some uncommon Cragganmore just out of bed, without makeup (sherry, Port…) Hope that's OK – in any case, I'm rather a fan even if it's certainly not an immediate whisky. See what I mean.
SGP:371 - 87 points. |
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February 15, 2022 |
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A jazz trio from Dunyvaig
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Well, actually, I mainly wanted to try the latest Distillers Edition, but naturally, we won't be stopping there and may manage to find one or two other interesting Lagavulins.
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Lagavulin 2006/2021 'Distillers Edition' (43%, OB, lgv 4/510)
Boy the 1979/1997 was possibly the greatest 'finished' malt whisky ever made by Man (if we're not taking into account malts that were just a tad pushed, rejuvenated, or re-racked in similar more active woods and all that). I believe recent vintages have become a little less interesting but it's true that they are living under the shadow of the 16 (not to mention the 12). Colour: gold. Nose: phu! (excuse me?) This terrific feeling of being there, on location, at the distillery. I believe Lagavulin really is THE malt whisky that's most got this kind of impact. Even if this is probably not the grandest Lagavulin, it's still a Lagavulin. Chocolate, coffee, barbecue, charcoal, fireplace the next morning, black olives. Rather not un-nice! Mouth: good but a little too leathery for me. Really a lot of lapsang souchong (did anyone ever do a lapsang souchong liqueur?) then leaves, ginger, bell peppers, burnt raisins, dry molasses… Certainly less sweet than I remembered it. Finish: long, pretty good, saltier. More leather, smoke, ashes, tar and coffee. Turmeric in the aftertaste. Comments: a wee feeling of cold coffee-schnapps here and there.
SGP:456 - 84 points. |
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Lagavulin 19 yo 'Feis Ile 2019' (52.6, OB, sherry-treated American oak casks, 6000 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: some leafiness upfront, cherry stems, some rum perhaps, then roasted raisins and pecan pie. A little allspice, leather, sour herbs, capers… You do feel that it's been a wee tad 'seasoned' and indeed we always prefer the purer ones, but there's no quibbling to be done, it's lovely, salty, maritime, perhaps just a tad rubbery. When tend to prefer when they come out on the tarry side rather than on the rubbery one. With water: gets fresher and tighter, with the distillate having the upper hand. Awesome whiffs of manure, horse saddle, eucalyptus… Mouth (neat): impeccable on the palate, despite all the spices. Pad Thai and menthol, liquorice, marmalade and the expected green walnuts. With water: still a wee bit dry and leafy but the oyster sauce and the feeling of menthol cigarettes win it. Finish: long, on classic ashy cinnamon and tarry bay leaves. Or something like that. Sooty bitter cocoa and old walnuts in the aftertaste. Comments: the question remains the same, does such a brilliant distillate really need some heavyish sherry treatment. By the way, missing Feis Ile! Maybe we'll do a mini-ceilidh with clootie dumplings and 'Westering Home' by Norma Munro on the stereo at WF Towers.
SGP:466 - 89 points. |
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Lagavulin 22 yo 'Jazz Festival 2020' (52.6%, OB, Refill American & European Oak, 2004 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: and voilà. A much tighter, cleaner (yet rather fat) expression, briny, with all the paraffin you would expect, lamp oil, plasticine, oysters, salty manzanilla, tarry ropes and all that. Touches of fresh butter and engine oil, new plastics straight from Ali's… With water: more points. Splendid passion fruits (hints) on a perfect 'peat'. Reminiscent of some older expressions of Lagavulin (such as 'the 15 yo ceramic') Mouth (neat): citrus chiming in, zests, bark, smoked fish, oysters, kippers, drops of citron liqueur and limoncello, some oiliness, touch of horseradish, stewed parsnips too… With water: perfect, old-school, rounder, complex. Seashells. Finish: long salty, briny, totally coastal. Some coal tar. Comments: the oak was a tad prominent at first but we're really splitting hairs here. Swims extremely well, never forget to try these with a little water, after having first tried them neat. Two more points in my book with a little water. Brilliant Lagavulin, almost refreshing. Well, not really, but at least was it more refreshing than the other two. Because 'It don't mean a thing if it ain't refreshing'. Not sure I've got that ducal quote right…
SGP: - 92 points. |
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Best spirits Serge tried those weeks, 90+ points only
Ben Nevis 22 yo 1999/2021 (46.5%, Liquid Pleasures and Nanyang Whisky Singapore, hogshead, cask #307)
Ben Nevis 25 yo 1996/2021 (49%, Fadandel, refill sherry butt, cask #447, 470 bottles)
Ben Nevis 24 yo 1996/2021 (45.6%, Duckhammers & Fine Spirits for Wu Dram Clan, hogshead, cask #1408, 290 bottles)
Ben Nevis 25 yo 1996/2021 (51.1%, The Whisky Exchange, hogshead)
Ben Nevis 25 yo (51.2%, The Whisky Show London 2021, 100 bottles)
Ben Nevis 23 yo 1996/2020 (47.6%, The Whisky Agency, hogshead, 264 bottles)
Ben Nevis 1996/2021 (53.6%, SCSM, for Guangzhou Single Cask Single Malt, hogshead, cask #80, 220 bottles)
Ben Nevis 14 yo 1996 (46%, Dram Mor for TWM, cask #002, 237 bottle)
Kilkerran 5 yo 2015/2021 (57.3%, Cadenhead, Annual Shop Release 2021, Campbeltown, sherry hogshead, 306 bottles)
Lagavulin 22 yo 'Jazz Festival 2020' (52.6%, OB, Refill American & European Oak, 2004 bottles)
Bimber (58.1%, OB for WFFA, England, virgin American oak, cask #97, 2020)
Hellyers Road 18 yo (56.4%, OB, Tasmania/Australia, The Nectar and Kirsch Import, American oak, cask #2269.03, 197 bottles, 2021)
Midleton 'Very Rare Release 2022' (40%, OB, Ireland)
Bellevue 23 yo 1998/2021 (55.2%, Nobilis Rum, Guadeloupe, 252 bottles)
Caroni 23 yo 1998/2021 (56.8%, The Whisky Jury for Spring Spirits , barrel #45, 288 bottles)
Caroni 22 yo 1998 (62.5%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society, Trinidad, 1st fill bourbon barrel, #R13.3, 'Havana, Madagascar and Tahiti', 267 bottles, +/-2021)
Caroni 21 yo 1999/2021 (65.7%, Distilia, The Golden Age of Piracy, Blackbeard, cask #197, 228 bottles)
Chairman's Reserve 21 yo 1999/2021 (66.5%, OB, St. Lucia, Mads Heitmann for Romhatten Cask Selection #5, ex-bourbon, cask #108011999, 229 bottles)
JMD 24 yo 1997/2021 (59.4%, The Whisky Blues, Jamaica, barrel, 206 bottles)
Long Pond 20 yo (60.1%, Sample X and The Duchess, Jamaica, 127 bottles, 2021)
Saint-James 15 yo 2006/2021 (47%, OB and Velier, Martinique, Tribute to Jean-Claude Benoit)
Versailles at Enmore 32 yo 1991/2021 (48.2%, Distilia, Guyana, Greenheart Collection, 175 bottles)
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