June 2024 - part 2 <--- July 2024 - part 1 ---> July 2024 - part 2


July 14, 2024

A new range of rums of all kinds

We set off on an adventure, noses in the air and minds clear and light (I'm sorry?)

Rhum Island ‘XO’ (45%, OB, Saint-Martin, +/-2023)

This concoction is a blend of rums hailing from Guadeloupe and Marie-Galante, Marie-Galante technically being part of Guadeloupe anyway. The blend’s taking up residence on Saint-Martin. The last distillery on Saint-Martin ceased operations in the early 20th century, and though the northern part of the island was administratively linked to Guadeloupe until 2007, it remains under French sovereignty. This rhum, perhaps a touch too exquisite for a casual apéritif, should demand attention. Colour: full gold. Nose: a harmonious blend featuring stewed peaches intertwined with liquorice and cane honey, complemented by balsa wood, a hint of fudge, a drizzle of olive oil, an earthy, gentian note, praline, nougat, and a dash of crème brûlée – balanced and distinctly Guadeloupean. Mouth: regrettably, a tad too sweet for my palate, almost as if enhanced with syrup. However, this sweetness may well cater to popular taste. Nonetheless, the sugarcane liqueur aspect is somewhat disappointing. Finish: fairly long but, to my dismay, excessively sweet, compelling one to crave gallons of Perrier. This, of course, is merely my personal impression. A syrupy aftertaste lingers. Comments: I did enjoy the nose!
SGP:730 - 65 points.

Tarasque (57%, OB, Maison AL, France, +/-2024)Tarasque (57%, OB, Maison AL, France, +/-2024)

Tarasque (57%, OB, Maison AL, France, +/-2024)

Here we have a molasses-based rhum crafted in mainland France, specifically the southwest, and matured in Muscat de Rivesaltes casks. It's always a bit of a surprise to see rhums produced in regions where there's nary a sugar cane in sight (much like Islay, ha!), but this phenomenon isn't uncommon in the Caribbean either, making the concept of terroir rather relative. The muscat, however, is indeed local (in the broad sense). Colour: straw. Nose: it's quite amusing! Notes of olive oil, a hint of cider vinegar, diesel fuel, capers, a touch of fermented apple, natural liquorice, freshly cut plywood, a bit of carbon dust... In short, it's unmistakably rhum. With water: the muscat remains discreet (thankfully) and we venture towards brake dust and even more olive oil. Mouth (neat): oily character, salty liquorice, very green olive oil, a bit of seawater, cider apple, and spicy hints... With water: a touch of glue – quite enjoyable – and a sort of olive oil seasoned with liquorice and sea salt. Perhaps a bit of muscat in the aftertaste. Finish: fairly long but with a rather light structure. Lemon in the aftertaste. Comments: I find this very good, unique, well-crafted, and surprising.
SGP:462 - 85 points.

Isautier 7 yo (40%, OB, La Réunion, +/-2022)

This is a traditionel rhum, not agricole, so it’s derived from molasses and aged in ex-French oak. Colour: white wine. Nose: lovely, with notes of sesame oil, nougat, hints of green asparagus and white tea, pine nuts, vanilla, and toasted brioche... Quite impressive for a modest 40%. However, it's amusing when distillers proclaim exceptional spirits and then label them at 40% vol. It's like calling a Diesel Golf a Grand Prix car. Mouth: good but light, somewhat thin, which is a pity. Sweet touches of orange liqueur, vanilla, a bit of sweetened black tea, and a tiny hint of menthol... Finish: short, with a bit of fresh wood emerging. Slightly sweet aftertaste. Comments: far from the excellent cask strength versions of last year. A young, loyal, honest rhum though, with a very pleasant nose nonetheless.
SGP:630 - 75 points.

Since we’re in la Réunion…

Île de la Réunion 6 yo 2017/2024 (60%, Rasta Morris, cask #RM033)

One might surmise, without any concrete evidence, that this is from Savanna. Colour: full gold. Nose: new baskets, rubber boots, and salted and lemony mangoes? That seems about right. With water: vegetable juice, liquorice wood, lemon zest, wood varnish, tapenade, anchovies, and a hint of black garlic. Superb style, both rich and taut. It's grand arôme, I suppose. Mouth (neat): wonderful smoked and candied lemon, kumquats, lime juice, petrol, and an abundance of orange zest. About twelve tonnes, give or take. With water: a perfect blend of olive oil, oranges, and multi-flower honey. It's the magic triangle, or at least one of them. Finish: long and even more on various citrus fruits, without ever losing the petrol notes. Comments: a grandiose young Réunionnais that’s passed through Belgium. The Belgians, again!
SGP:662 - 90 points.

We'll let it rest a bit. Right, let's move on to the Cubans while there's still time… I mean, before we tackle the Jamaicans and compadres.

Cuban Rum 30 yo 1993/2024 (49.7%, Chapter 7, Spirit Library, 313 bottles)

One can't be quite certain where all these delightful old Cubans that have surfaced in the past year or two are coming from. Colour: full gold. Nose: a tad light at first, but the herbs emerge from the wood one by one, starting with dill, then parsley, Thai basil, sweet woodruff, and coriander… Then comes the café latte, tobacco (not necessarily Cuban puros), and sweet liquorice. Following that, root vegetables make an appearance, celery, wild carrots, black radish, and porcini powder… It’s really quite charming, complex, and most importantly, in its natural state, without any apparent tinkering. Mouth: a delight, not as light as the nose suggests, with more oranges, cinnamon, crème caramel, again café latte, then indeed those herbs, this time dominated by liquorice and lemon. A hint of lemon balm. Finish: medium in length but very elegant, dominated by fresh small citrus fruits and an aftertaste of cane juice and roasted pecan. Even a touch of petrol. Comments: could it be from San José? In any case, it’s absolutely adorable.
SGP:551 - 90 points.

Trois Rivières 2006-2014-2016/2023 ‘Triple Millésime’ (42%, OB, Martinique, agricole)

I’m a bit sceptical about this 'triple millésime' concept; it's something any distiller might do, but in Scotland, for instance, you can no longer mention the vintages, only the age of the youngest component. So, this would be a 6 or a 7-year-old. Colour: full gold. Nose: actually, it’s quite lovely, with cedarwood, sweet liquorice, ylang-ylang, iris, and freshly crushed mint leaves. Add touches of cinnamon, ginger, pink pepper, and turmeric. Very fragrant. Mouth: the lower ABV works well here as the spirit is very aromatic. Pineapple, mango, then all the notes found on the nose, with a slight earthy quality that is always appealing. Finish: medium length, with salted liquorice taking control. Comments: it’s honestly very, very good.
SGP:562 - 86 points.

Let's move on to the wilder ones...

Clarendon Estate 19 yo 2004/2024 ‘EMB’ (59.8%, DNC by Precious Liquors, Jamaica, cask #5)

All right, this needs explanations. The marque EMB indicates rather low ester content, around 200 gr/HLPA, while DNC stands for Do Not Collect. What’s more, this one was aged in the British Isles (is Jamaica a British Isle? I think not…) Colour: pale white wine. Nose: it’s pretty new-makey but I find it brilliant to discover pears and cherries in an old Jamaican. Especially these cherries and their stones that lead us towards almonds and varnish. Huge cherries! With water: new rubber, boots, trainers, cheap kitchen devices straight from Aldi’s or Temu, etc. Mouth (neat): oh, great fun! Kirsch, Williams pear spirit, varnish, yuzu, radishes. With water: heading towards malt whisky! Think pure Highland Park when no crazy wood interferes. Finish: not that long but perfectly varnishy. The cherries remain present. Comments: of great simplicity in concept and perfect precision. In short, the opposite of a Rolex. Ha.
SGP:562 - 88 points.

Hampden 12 yo 2010/2022 ‘C<>H’ (63%, Velier, Jamaica, cask #17, 246 bottles)

Fully aged at the distillery and notably ‘robot free’ according to Velier. Are robots really taking jobs and ruining families? Perhaps. Anyway, C<>H refers to an ester content of 1300-1400 gr ester/HLPA. Colour: deep gold. Nose: an intriguing array of burning tyres, burning rubber boots, brand new UHU glue, freshly sawn MDF, intense black olives, and sharp vinegar. With water: a bouquet of fresh paint, fresh plywood, new wellies, and ashes - not as extreme as first thought. Mouth (neat): I hate it that I love it. Grapefruit juice with a smoky edge, like it's been wafted with the exhaust of an old Porsche, mad kirschwasser, and seafood left from last week. Even Bayer AG wouldn’t dare to produce this much ammonia. With water: a tidal wave of salinity, rotting fruits, vinegars, offbeat natural wines, glues, and varnishes. Finish: it seemingly never ends, like an old diesel engine with self-ignition. Comments: as I said, I hate it that I love this.
SGP:563 - 91 points.

Dring dring, last one…

Hampden ‘Oloroso 2023’ (63.4%, The Colours of Rum, Jamaica, cask #18, 1500-1600 gr/HLPA, 323 bottles, 2024)

An ultra-young DOK, not even a year old. Let’s see if the oloroso has anything to tell us in this extreme context. Colour: deep gold. Nose: I get it. If you're going to go for a 'paille' or 'reposado' style, you might as well use ultra-active casks, as long as you don't end up with too much wood influence. That's not the case here, the DOK shines through, but the green walnuts of the oloroso seem to mingle and even... invite it to dance a tango. It’s quite amusing but, to be honest, it remains an extreme Hampden. The Hell’s Angels of rum. With water: seawater, clams, barnacles, anchovies, and boat varnish. Mouth (neat): sublimely salty, giving the impression they’ve distilled salty liquorice steeped in ultra-dry oloroso. You’d have to be mad. The fruits are jostling in the background, but this ultimate liquorice paired with fresh walnut is holding them back for now. With water: hyper-salty, hyper-tarry, full-on rubber and brine... It’s perfect. Finish: very long but extremely salty. Could the oloroso have come from the seaside? Sanlúcar? Comments: almost impossible to score, it’s totally love it or hate it, one again. Not easy following the magnificent Velier, but it does stand proudly.
SGP:463 - 89 points.

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far


July 12, 2024

A couple Auchentoshans

When I think of a summer malt, I think of Auchentoshan. This was especially true when the malts were purer, sometimes also enhanced by wonderful sherries. Nowadays, it’s less so, as most are boosted by strange wine casks. But they are not the only ones...

Auchentoshan ‘Sauvignon Blanc Finish’ (47%, OB, +/-2024)

This baby proudly proclaims itself as ‘vibrant and fresh’, which is exactly what we’d expect from a proper Auchentoshan. That’s why I find the idea of adding Sauvignon Blanc rather disheartening, especially without even knowing the region of the Sauvignon Blanc that’s been used—perhaps it's English? Auchentoshan is a lovely malt; does it really need such tinkering? Colour: straw. Nose: lemonade, honeysuckle, elderflower, limoncello, and mandarins. Of course, it's well-made, but what's the point behind this? It almost smells like a Hugo spritz. Heaven help us! Mouth: here we get a bit closer to the Auchentoshan character, and yes, it's pleasant enough, slightly earthier with notes of sage, parsley, watercress, and especially elderflower. Rest assured; we won't be quoting Monty Python again. Finish: medium length with a fresh, herbaceous, and lemony zest. A hint of fennel in the aftertaste. Comments: the worst part is, it's not even bad at all (really?) But essentially, these are almost cocktails where prosecco has been replaced with young malt whisky. It's quite clever... and not bad at all (I insist), though it might land you in a drunk tank. Then in front of a judge.
SGP: 740 - 79 points.

Well then, on to the real stuff…

Auchentoshan 2000/2020 (51.5%, Malts of Scotland, refill sherry hogshead, Cask #MOS 20023, 283 bottles)

Colour: Gold. Nose: quite complex, as expected, with touches of copper, coins, a hint of polish, then yellow peaches, cherries (kirsch), a wee bit of varnish, damp wood (old stump), canned pineapple juice... It’s really quite intricate. With water: scented candles! Rose, orange blossom… Mouth (neat): very good, with the typical citrusy side, but also a certain creaminess, honey, maple syrup, peach cream… That famous Irish side from triple distillation, very pronounced here. With water: it becomes a bit sweet again, particularly with fruit creams, especially peach, but it remains very clean. Finish: medium length, a bit syrupy, but that’s inherent to these drams. Comments: I appreciate it a lot, this one could also lead you to a night in the cells and a date with the judge, but at least that would have been worth it.
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Check the index of all Auchentoshan we've tasted so far


July 11, 2024

A Trio of Kilkerran full of Port and Sherry

Among the three distilleries in Campbeltown, and while waiting for the new distilleries that are in the pipeline and will finally grant the small region its own appellation of origin or GI (the day it happens), here is the one that is still the least known, Glengyle, which perhaps suffers a bit from the duality of names in terms of reputation (Glengyle = Kilkerran). Of course, it is Springbank that is in charge. By the way, soon there will be another nice batch of excellent independent Springbanks on WF... For now, here are these Glengyle releases, which are arriving a bit (a bit?) late on WF.

(Glengyle)

Kilkerran 13 yo 2004/2017 (54%, Cadenhead, Warehouse tasting)

Colour: onion peel, let’s say. Nose: strawberries, cherries, and blackcurrants, nicely melded together with cake notes that might be from the bourbon cask. I suppose that was the idea. A few touches of leather and used matchsticks complete the picture, without overwhelming. The red wine + malt whisky equation seems to work here. With water: hints of black truffle, potting soil, maraschino, cigars, a slight barnyard note, even a bit of compost... I find that quite pleasant. Mouth (neat): very fruity, quite sweet. The classic duo of overripe strawberries and black pepper takes the lead, before orange marmalade and a hint of sangria, in the same vein, join in to round things out. This time, we're not running in the opposite direction, even though it's not entirely our preferred style. With water: ginger and Campari come forward, adding a spicy kick. Ginger ale. It's rather unusual, actually, likely the influence of the port cask, but not quite of port itself. Finish: medium length, lovely sweetness, figs and strawberry jam, plus green pepper and still a bit of ginger. Comments: actually, it's not totally our thing, but it's nice in a "variant" kind of way. I didn’t really find any very obvious peat.
SGP: 661 - 83 points.

Kilkerran 15 yo 2004/2019 (51.5%, OB, 15th Anniversary, oloroso wood, US release, 280 bottles)

We know that this series was met with a bit of circumspection, but that’s all we know. Colour: red amber. Nose: quite close to the Warehouse Tasting, but drier, more earthy, and definitely heavier on the green nuts, cigar box, crushed pepper, and glutamate. Let’s see if a bit of water can coax out some fruits… Ah, there's the fruitcake starting to peek through. With water: touches of old camphor syrup, or aged yellow Chartreuse, and even some old Heering Cherry. How about that! Mouth (neat): a kind of mix of Coca-Cola, liquorice, vegetal tar (pine), and Corinth raisins. It finishes rather sweet and almost light. With water: a hint of anise and mint this time, mint sauce (English, of course), and still those raisins. Touches of caramelised onions. Finish: medium length, sweetness, chocolate, walnut wine, liquorice, and salted mint. Earthier aftertaste again. Comments: not at all a classic malt, it goes off in all directions but also brings a charming and very unusual character. Reminds me a bit of the Springbank and Longrow releases from the early 2000s.
SGP: 661 - 84 points.

Kilkerran 15 yo 2004/2019 (52%, OB, 15th Anniversary, oloroso wood, Japanese release, 276 bottles)

Again, a double maturation with Oloroso and bourbon, it seems. Colour: dark amber. Nose: so far yet so close to its sister cask, more classic, undoubtedly better balanced, more akin to Springbank (there, I've said it), with pecan pie and just roasted almonds. Nothing beats roasted almonds, right? With water: fresh praline and dark nougat, with just a hint of soot and cigar ashes in the background, and a tiny touch of cured ham. Mouth (neat): very good, rich, leaning more towards orange zest, dark honey, cedarwood (those pencils we used to chew at school), and tobacco. Oranges then dominate, and we’re certainly not complaining. With water: indeed, very good. Roasted nuts of all sorts, with caramel and a slight salty note. Impeccable. Finish: not immensely long but sweet, balanced, and firm at the same time. Returning to tobacco, ham (a thin sliver of Parma ham) and oranges. The aftertaste is drier, with a hint of clove and that slight 'dirty' side we love so much. Comments: very beautiful cask.
SGP:661 - 89 points.

That's good, we've caught up on a (very small) part of our delay.

(Merci Andy, Merci Tim)


July 10, 2024

Time

The Time Warp Sessions,
today new vs original Linkwood

Linkwood

The original Linkwood distillery as it appears on the 25-year-old
Sestante we are tasting today.

It is important to remember that Linkwood was completely rebuilt in 1962, and then a second distillery was added in 1971-1972. The original distillery was closed in 1985. Therefore, today we will have some Linkwood from the contemporary distillery, which was expanded in 2012 by the way, exactly when our first whisky today was distilled, and some Linkwood from the original distillery, before it was rebuilt.

Linkwood 11 yo 2012/2023 (57.4%, Signatory Vintage, LMDW New Vibrations, first fill oloroso sherry butt finish, cask #106, 683 bottles)

Here's a young Linkwood that should be brimming with vigour and sherry. Colour: dark amber. Nose: initial notes of coffee-schnapps, or even raspberry eau-de-vie followed by chocolate stuffed with raisins, then the usual green walnut liqueur (or nocino) and hints of tomato leaves. It’s quite soft for now, despite the high alcohol content, and well integrated. With water: it remains soft, moving towards chocolate dessert cream, Nutella, and kirsch. Mouth (neat): much more powerful on the palate, rather understandably, with marmalade, a small moka-spoonful of raspberry jelly, sultanas, coffee again, even Nescafé (found only in hotel rooms without espresso machines, right?), and definitely chocolates filled with liqueur or brandy. One is reminded of the excellent RumbaPfaumle from Kastner. With water: very good, very classic, rather mature for its young age. Lovely citrus notes in the background. Finish: continues on citrus, some candied, with a surprising salinity in the aftertaste. Comments: very representative of young independent Speysides matured in active, good quality sherry casks. Always works, everything seems under control.
SGP:551 - 86 points.

Linkwood 25 yo (40%, Sestante, 75cl, +/-1985)

Here’s the original Linkwood. There was also a very good version ‘yellow brick label’ (not road) at 40% by Sestante, with the label borrowed from the famous Clynelish Royal Marine, which was much older. Beware though, one should be cautious with 40% vol. in such an old bottle... Alas, the 40 and 45 years in the same series are rather tired in my opinion, especially the 45. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: this time it’s not far from the style of Macallans of the era, with a slightly smoky side and sherry leaning heavily on fruitcake. Loads of dried figs, a hint of metal polish, very large and dark raisins, dried apricots, pipe tobacco, and high-class Darjeeling tea. It’s deep and complex, very seductive, elegant, with hints of peat, but of course, it’s on the palate where it all happens in these kinds of cases. Mouth: I think this is one of, if not the best in the series, even if we don’t have them all in front of us. The slight smokiness and all those dried fruits, and even the pipe tobacco, are well present. One would expect it to nosedive a bit in the middle of the palate, which it does. However, it doesn’t become too dry, too cardboardy, or overly caramelised. Some touches of honeyed ham. Finish: short but pleasant, more malty and leaning towards quality coffee and chocolate. The ham reappears at the very end with a hint of chicken broth with parsley and leek. Not bad at all! Comments: you know the refrain, what a pity it wasn’t bottled at a higher strength! But you can feel the extra complexity, texture, and 'dimensions' typical of those years in Scotland. A different time.
SGP:452 - 89 points.

Check the index of all Linkwood we've tasted so far


July 9, 2024

An imperial sequel

Nothing to do with the British crown, right? Well, as a result, we felt guilty about keeping so many undrunk Imperials in the sample library, especially since we had already taken so long previously. So, we are going to add two or three more, but we’ll go quiiiickly...

Imperial 23 yo 1995/2019 (45.2%, The Whisky Exchange ‘The Magic of The Cask’, refill bourbon barrel, cask #7896, 125 bottles)

One that Angus already liked a lot. I think the label was working with UV, I hope that’s not the case with the whisky. Colour: straw. Nose: full of mandarins, orange zests, green melons, plus acacia honey and whiffs of butterfly lavender. Touch of paraffin. All perfect. Mouth: sweets, cream eggs, pink grapefruits, lemon drops, then white pepper and a touch of turmeric. A few touches of eucalyptus syrup and citron liqueur. Finish: medium length, more paraffin and candlewax, plus white peaches. A very delicate touch of violet liqueur, I mean proper violet liqueur, not ‘parfait amour’. There’s no perfect love anyway, is there? Of course there is (you never know who’s reading your blog…) Comments: certainly one of my favourites.
SGP:651 - 89 points.

Remember that excellent ‘licensed’ Imperial from G&M’s?

Imperial 18 yo 1995/2014 (43%, Gordon & MacPhail, licensed bottling, AD/JFGD)

One day we’ll publish something again about ‘how to read G&M codes’. Colour: gold. Nose: very beautiful, very delicate, between a young Chardonnay from Burgundy and white asparagus, then more lemon. Much fresher, fruitier, and less marked by the casks than the 1979 from the last session. Whiffs of honeysuckle and wisteria. Mouth: one of the best ‘licensed bottlings’ of G&M, yet one of the least known. This time we’re on all types of oranges, in all their forms, particularly as simple juice. Also a bit of Earl Grey and, once again, a hint of lavender. Not the lavender of 1980s B., mind you. Finish: medium length but very well balanced. Orange cake, biscuits, some grated zest and chen-pi (dried and aged mandarin peels, a marvel). Comments: perfect classicism, and it goes down so easily. The base is very close to TWE’s ‘UV’.
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Imperial 25 yo 1995/2021 (50.1%, The Whisky Exchange, cask #7845, bourbon barrel, 165 bottles)

One either likes it or not when bottlers add tasting notes on their labels. In this case, they mention pineapple. So off we go on a pineapple hunt... Although it’s possible Mr Abbott wrote these notes on the label, and we know that Mr Abbott is an excellent taster. Colour: straw. Nose: we remain on our course, after all it’s another 1995, with citrus, melon, light honeys, a touch of chalk, young Chardonnay, a bit of paraffin and, drumroll please, apple juice with a few drops of pineapple juice. Indeed. Mouth: classic Imperial, very fruity, tight, a bit nervy, refreshing, with beeswax, apricots, pink grapefruit... and fresh pineapple. Mind you, Victoria pineapples, not pineapple candies or liqueurs. Finish: long with a bit of lemonade and blood orange. Lovely green pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: it seems we have a tight-knit group today.
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Alright, we’re changing vintages for the last one. Just barely...

Imperial 23 yo 1996/2019 (48.3%, The Single Malts of Scotland, Belgium exclusive, bourbon barrel, cask #18, 129 bottles)

A bottling for The Nectar. Colour: white wine. Nose: it seems there was a bit of peat in the previous cask content, but it’s discreet and delicate, a bit like HP. Besides that, green apples, citrus, green apples, citrus, green apples, citrus... We love both. A slight waxy touch that reminds us of that famous distillery from Sutherland that starts with a ‘C’. Cardhu is not in Sutherland. Mouth: same impressions, a bit of peat and an unusual medicinal salinity for Imperial, but it works. Green apples, citrus, ashes, green apples, citrus, ashes, green apples, citrus, ashes... and some beeswax. Nothing to add. Finish: same. It’s excellent, salty, ashy, lemony, waxy. Comments: you might say it’s the effect of the vintage.
SGP:552 - 87 points.

We’re changing vintages again… It’s important to remember that Imperial was closed in 1998 and demolished in 2013. How could anyone demolish such a distillery...

Imperial 24 yo 1994/2019 (43.8%, The Single Malts of Scotland, barrel, cask #5869, 178 bottles)

They really released some remarkable Imperial series at TSMOS/Elixir. Colour: white wine. Nose: completely different, with Swiss cheese, a few gym socks, fruit purée and notes of white beer. I find this nose debatable, in the sense that ‘one can discuss it’. Well, you see. Mouth: back to the lighter citrus, cane syrup, but also a slightly salty and ‘dirty’ side. Almost basaltic. On the other hand, these flavours add complexity to this Imperial. One can discuss it... Finish: medium length, cleaner, fruity, honeyed, but with a touch of cream cheese at the end. Comments: one could discuss this endlessly. That's not our point today.
SGP:561 - 85 points.

We’re really going to stop this madness with the next one, I promise you, but we’re going back to 1995...

Imperial 19 yo 1995/2015 (46%, Signatory Vintage, Un-Chillfiltered Collection, hogshead, cask #50204-205)

It was really great when Signatory launched this collection, you’d buy 6 or 12 at random, then open them to discover their higher highs and their few... lows. The prices were very reasonable, you see. Colour: white wine. Nose: very nice, with apples smoked with fir and beech woods. Or something like that. In the background, that beeswax we’ve encountered many times in these Clyne... I mean Imperials. Lovely notes of fresh bread and croissants too. Mouth: beer, praline, malt, cappuccino, chestnut honey, and again that slightly smoky side. It’s really maltier and smokier than the others, even more so than TSMOS’s for Belgium. Finish: long, with apples, ashes, cider, and sweet beer. A bit of toffee and Toblerone in the aftertaste. Comments: a bit less ‘neat and tidy’ than most of the others, but perhaps also more ‘fun’.
SGP:541 - 86 points.

I will add in conclusion that it is rather exhausting to conduct a near-horizontal tasting like this, and perhaps that was noticeable. We will try not to do it too often (does he say, already thinking about the next one).

We’re done, hasta luego.

(Thank you, Tom, and Whisky Bibliothek!)

Check the index of all Imperial we've tasted so far


July 8, 2024

Quite Some Imperials

Perhaps a little, perhaps a lot, we'll see... Because this is Whiskyfun, isn't it?

Remains of Imperial Distillery in 2011 (Andrew Wood, geograph). It was demolished in 2013 and replaced with Dalmunach Distillery two years later.

Imperial 22 yo 1995/2018 (43.3%, Elixir Distillers ‘Single Malts of Scotland’, cask #5410, barrel, 202 bottles)

I can't tell you why I haven't tasted this Imperial yet. Perhaps because, at the time, we had too much of it? Colour: straw. Nose: waxy like Clynelish, fruity like Inchgower, austere and herbal like Glendullan. Quite a bit of candle wax, ripe apples, fresh nuts, hay and plums. Mouth: much fruitier, it's a real fruit salad with a bit of honey and cane syrup. Pears, plums, apples, grape berries, etc. Simple, effective, pleasant. Finish: medium length, sweet cider, barley eau de vie and pear juice. Almost a sweet aftertaste. Comments: it goes down very well, perhaps too well, but it's very good.
SGP:641 - 86 points.

Imperial 20 yo 1995/2016 (50%, Signatory Vintage, Un-Chillfiltered Collection, Cask Strength, Maxi Vins Luxembourg, hogshead, cask #50192, 284 bottles)

Luxembourg, tiny country, great people. Colour: pale gold. Nose: entirely on fresh fruits, apples, cherries, pears and plums. In the background, icing sugar and a hint of cheesecake, which we’re not too accustomed to in our latitudes. With water: back to sweet and wholesome barley. Mouth (neat): good, very fruity, apples, pears, touches of white pepper and again icing sugar. With water: all sorts of Haribo sweets or other multinational companies’ confections designed to keep us addicted to sugar. It’s good, it’s regressive, it’s childlike, it’s unstoppable. Finish: quite long. Canned peaches. Comments: has anyone ever considered creating a 'Republican Distillery'? Very good Imperial, in any case, super easy.
SGP:651 - 87 points.

Imperial 27 yo 1995/2023 (50.4%, Silver Seal, LMDW New Vibrations, cask #1022, 160 bottles)

This one straight from Formigine, via Paris. What could go wrong? Colour: copper amber. Nose: old-school sherry, walnut wine, old copper indeed (coins, kettle), dried figs, peonies, old tools, stewed tangerines and peaches, sultanas… With water: an old cigar humidor, very well taken care of. Mouth (neat): very good, with a woodiness leaning towards Cuban cigars and spices, fatty ham, mutton suet, sage, black olives, cumin… It’s like a Moroccan tagine. With water: slightly astringent and woody, but the cigar and pipe tobacco notes work very well. Finish: long, woody, on teas and tobaccos. Comments: there’s a somewhat extreme tobacco element, but as the owner is a great pipe smoker, this is not surprising. Love you xxx.
SGP:572 - 87 points.

Imperial 1979 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Licensed bottling, 1995)

Of course, we've tasted it before, but we've never written a tasting note, it seems to me. At 40% vol., has it survived? Colour: gold. Nose: nicely malty, light, on toast and cereals. At 40% vol., it’s really, or rather it was, a breakfast malt. Touches of stout, Guinness, Nescafé, roasted pear… It’s ‘pretty’. Mouth: very good, it has benefited from these years in the glass, developing a slightly smoky side and lots of dried fruits, dates, sultanas, bananas… There’s also a rather superb earthy aspect. A perfect example of a whisky that has benefited from bottle ageing, naturally more pronounced in whiskies bottled at 40%. Finish: magnificent touches of pear liqueur. Comments: I admit to being surprised. These old G&Ms at 40% often offer quite impressive comebacks, as if they’ve taken Viagra (oh no, S., please). Go on, re-taste the old Avonsides, or the Highland Fusiliers, and we’ll talk about it again…
SGP:561 - 88 points.

Imperial 23 yo 1998/2022 (49.1%, Whisky Concerto x Le Sens, cask #100807, 160 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: white peach and mirabelles. Let's be honest, it smells like Balvenie. It’s fresh, simple, elegant, very much about the barley, natural vanilla, and yellow flowers that bees love. Could it be Balvenie? Mouth: absolutely excellent, ultra-fruity but without the slightest vulgarity. Mirabelles are often mentioned, but here, they are the MIRABELLES! And quince is not far off. Finish: long and rich, but elegant, with fresh mirabelles, canned mirabelles, mirabelle eau-de-vie, mirabelle jam and... you get the idea. Comments: amazing, what a marvel. Well done Mr Concerto.
SGP:651 - 91 points.

Things are looking good, so let's keep going a bit longer...

Imperial 30 yo 1990/2020 (44.5%, The Single Malts of Scotland, for Germany, bourbon barrel, cask #1051, 144 bottles)

We have a good feeling here, especially knowing that TSMOS love Imperial… Colour: gold. Nose: hints of banana peel, overripe apples, limestone, very ripe gooseberries, white peaches... It’s quite lovely, though it doesn’t quite compare to a Beethoven symphony, if you catch my drift. I suppose it’ll play out on our palate... Mouth: flash! Indeed, now we get apples, bananas, papayas, even guavas starting to show themselves. Very pretty herbal teas, avocado juice (if you’ve never tasted avocado juice on a beach in Bali, you’ve never truly lived), chamomile, and a touch of bitter tobacco... Finish: long, even more bitter. Comments: forget the bit about Bali, that’s very personal. Adorable Imperial, but it was starting to flirt with the boundaries, if you know what I mean.
SGP:461 - 88 points.

Imperial 26 yo 1996/2022 (51.5%, The Whisky Show, casks #1053+1189)

A thing about UV and QR codes on the label, if I recall correctly. It’s crazy how these 'technological' gimmicks already feel like they're from the 20th century. Honestly, you’re outdated before you even put your 'innovative' idea into practice. Even in London. Colour: pale gold. Nose: pleasant, apples, plums, pears, green tea. Something for Carly Simon – mind you, she’s 81! With water: malt, barley, apple, brioche. Mouth (neat): ah, very good now, simple but solid, on apples, lemons, pears, and plums. With water: yes, it’s very good. Finish: barley, green apples, plums. Comments: pleasant, it’s a nice whisky, very nice, but really quite nice.
SGP:551 - 86 points.

Imperial 21 yo 1995/2016 (48.9%, The Maltman, bourbon, cask #20155, 298 bottles)

Trying this for glory, really. Colour: pale gold. Nose: apple pie, manzanilla, vin jaune, mustard, light curry, walnuts... Wait, is this really a bourbon cask? Very, very lovely nose, please pass me the oysters and langoustines, perhaps even pil-pil prawns. Mouth: seriously, can we check the papers? Is this really just a simple bourbon cask? (Just kidding, we love bourbon barrels). Anyway, this fermentary and mineral side is quite perfect. Finish: long, perfect. It’s like a well-matured amontillado. Comments: didn’t see that coming and boom, a winner. Remains to be seen where these manzanilla and vin jaune notes are coming from. Mr Maltman?
SGP:462 - 89 points.

Imperial 17 yo 1995/2012 (50%, Douglas Laing, Old Malt cask, refill hogshead, cask ref #8474, 148 bottles)

One of the last Old Malt Cask by Douglas Laing, before the brand was transferred to Hunter Laing. Colour: straw. Nose: nothing much to say, herbal teas, chamomile, cut hay, barley, overripe apples... It’s nice, fresh, pleasant, just a bit ordinary. With water: a bit of wax, but it gets a bit boring. Mouth (neat): very good, malty, with fresh fruits and some herbs. I’ll say it, it’s like Blair Athol. With water: it’s okay, it’s good, it’s typically an 83/84/85 for us. We’re talking points. Finish: medium. We’re falling asleep. Comments: honestly, it’s good but of very average interest.
SGP: 451 - 82 points.

Well, if this doesn't wake us up...

Imperial 29 yo 1990/2019 (55.3%, The Single Malts of Scotland, barrel, cask #934, 160 bottles)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: apples, peaches, apricots, fresh croissants, and sourdough bread. With water: more on the herbal side, with a bit of salad, lettuce, rocket... Mouth (neat): fresher, fruity, oily, waxy, with a hint of Clynelish, but far from Clynelish's class. With water: it’s good, but it lacks a bit of body. Apple, honey, pear, plums, you know, nothing to write home about. Finish: it’s okay. Comments: we're quite bored, but we chose to taste so much Imperial, our fault, very good whisky...
SGP:551 - 85 points.

Right, we'll speed up again... This should do it...

Imperial 30 yo 1989/2019 (43.3%, The Single Malts of Scotland, for the USA, bourbon barrel, cask #382, 172 bottles)

I think the idea of sending bourbon barrels back to the USA is just brilliant. Love the USA. Colour: white wine. Nose: meh. Some mild beer, apple juice, green tea... Nothing to get excited about. Mouth: it's good but lacks substance. Cider, beeswax, barley syrup. Meh. Finish: a little meh, so-so. Comments: actually, it's very good, it's just rather a little dull. Our fault.
SGP:551 - 85 points.

We still have a lot left, but I promise that if the next one isn't a bit more motivating, we'll call it quits. We're not masochists.

Imperial 29 yo 1991/2020 (45.7%, The Single Malts of Scotland, barrel, cask #280, 194 bottles)

Colour: pale gold. Nose: yes, it speaks more clearly, with apple and plum juices, a hint of ham, and dried fruits like longans and jujubes. The aromas remain, however, quite moderate. Mouth: nothing to fault, it’s good, with honey and orchard fruits, plums for example. Finish: medium and somewhat undefined. Fruits and herbs. But it’s much better in the aftertaste, more tense and fresh. Cider apples. Comments: I think we’ve lost ourselves a wee bit.
SGP:451 - 86 points.

We shouldn't be tasting so many Imperials in a row, nor any other somewhat 'greatly average' malts for that matter (not at all in the bad sense of 'average'). Lesson learned (of course, of course...). We ought to taste many more Imperials in the coming weeks.

(Thank you Tim and Tom)

Check the index of all Imperial we've tasted so far


July 7, 2024

Rum and courage

We are thinking very, very strongly of all our friends in the Caribbean islands who have suffered the heavy damages caused by Hurricane Beryl. Though it has been fierce, your strength and resilience are even stronger. Remember the celestial powers do play a part in creating the world's finest rums: yours. Courage and hugs!

Donate to the World Food Programme
!World Food Programme)

Thailand 5 yo (42%, Rum Explorer, Château du Breuil, +/-2022)

Thai rhum finished in France, what could go wrong. Thai rum is either great (Issan, Chalong Bay) or rather a disaster (most of the rest). Colour: gold. Nose: it's not bad but rather light, with barley sugar and very ripe apple. Some earthy whiffs that aren't unpleasant, but overall, it's really too light on the aromatic front. For me, anyway. Mouth: it's not bad, with some iodized notes, liquorice, cider apple, even pear, but it nosedives a bit and lacks some oomph. Finish: very short, evanescent, slightly metallic (tin can). A pity, there were some lovely notes of oranges and guavas. Comments: needs ice. Not too bad.
SGP: 430 - 76 points.

Doorly's XO (43%, OB, Barbados, 2023)

The last time we sampled this beast was in 2013 (WF 85). Every ten years, I suppose we'll manage. You'll note, however, that we're now at 43%, compared to 40% last time, so one must have faith in humanity. Naturally, it's Foursquare. Colour: full gold. Nose: cedar, pencil shavings, sunflower oil, white nougat, freshly cut grass, pressed cane… It's rather light, quite elegant. Mouth: sweetness, citrus, hay wine, flower jelly, and always that fresh cane side, even though it’s molasses. Very nice. Finish: medium length, more herbaceous. Nougat, cane syrup, hay, and grass. Comments: we're not going to change our score for just 3% ABV more, are we?
SGP:451 - 85 points.

New Grove 12 yo 2010/2022 ‘Savoir Faire’ (65.2%, LMDW, Antipodes, Mauritius, Limousin oak, cask #550, 427 bottles)

Yet a murderous strength. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it’s a bit powerful, but you can sense walnut cakes in the background. But let’s not take any risks, shall we? With water: oh, it’s magical, violets, orange blossom, wisteria, a packet of liquorice, cut hay, potpourri… What beauty… and what a surprise. Mouth (neat): I love it. It’s too strong, but I love it. The fruity liquorice is sublime here. With water: it veers towards essence and varnish, then gently matured sweet olives, and finally back to liquorice with a hint of salty tar. Yes, that does exist; it’s like pine tar liqueurs and all that. Finish: very long, this time with a cavalcade of very ripe tropical fruits, chiefly the ever-present mango. Comments: seriously, what is this?
SGP:652 - 90 points.

The Many Faces of Rum, The Duo, Chapter 2 (50.7%, The Whisky Jury, blended malt, 80% south American, 20% Hampden, refill wood, 2024)

It’s amusing how all the top bottlers, at one time or another, start producing blends. Colour: gold. Nose: I believe the Jamaican does all the work. It reminds me of our experiments with John Glaser about twenty years ago, where you’d add 20% Ardbeg or Laphroaig and the rest didn’t matter much, except for texture, which was Clynelish’s job. We wouldn't put Clynelish in a rum, would we? Then again, why not... With water: lovely coastal notes, saline, tarry and rubbery as well. Mouth (neat): we’re having a laugh, it’s Hampden and such. A British Navy rum, just better. Liquorice and mint, or what we call a "perroquet" in France. With water: very good. Finish: long, estery, olives, rubber, tar. Comments: we might call this Hampdenette, but in that case, visiting the island will be out of the question. We’ll think about it.
SGP:663 - 89 points.

Jamaica 5 yo ‘Single Domaine Rum’ (50%, Rum Nation, Oloroso finish, 2023)

It should be easy and pleasant. Believe me, in France and at this moment, that’s quite useful. Colour: gold. Nose: tangerines and copper. A sort of boosted Appleton if you will. Apricot jam, which is quite magical. Frankly, we fear a sugary palate, but let’s see. This young nose is magnificent. Mouth: no! It’s much less sweet than previous releases, on the contrary, there’s charcoal, cigar ash, pine wood… With water: sublime notes of smoked meats, bacon, dried ceps… Where does all this come from? Finish: rather long, saltier, excellent. Asian cuisine, but I couldn't tell you more. Something with chilli and pineapple. Or peppered peaches. Comments: we almost forgot to add water. Magnificent young Jamaican. We have politicians in France wanting to change our constitution: I propose we now call ourselves ‘Rum Nation’, after all, we have quite a few distilleries of all sorts in the country and elsewhere.
SGP:662 - 89 points.

Diamond 18 yo 2003/2022 (53.5%, Silver Seal, Guyana, Special Edition, cask #53, 186 bottles)

We love these old-fashioned labels, reminding us that our ancestors were accustomed to fighting with cannons aboard all sorts of ships. The first friend to mention Nelson, we’ll drown, then burn, then hang, then feed to the pigs. Yes. Colour: dark amber. Nose: full-on walnut cake, Catalan cream, black nougat, treacle toffee, and just cane sugar loaf. Likely ex-column rather than pot still. With water: superb herbal notes, especially watercress and fresh parsley, then liquorice, alfalfa, chen-pi… I know I often mention chen-pi (hi, Gene!), but I find it really is a component of many great spirits. Mouth (neat): sublime black nougat and very old oloroso. I don’t think there’s any oloroso, but there you go. With water: just superb. Oranges, liquorice, toffee, butterscotch. Finish: biting into salted toffee. Does salted toffee even exist? Do they have it on Dramazon? Black olives in the aftertaste. Comments: superb Diamond. Still, we need to know which still it was. Any ideas?
SGP:563 - 90 points.

TDL 2008/2024 (61%, Vagabond Spirits, Trinidad, Steam Cask, Silva Collection, 240 bottles)

Colour: golden amber. Nose: definitely not a mango bomb, rather a museum of all things liquorice. But that could change with the addition of water, so for now, let’s remain cautious. With water: the wood comes out, pencil shavings, but it approaches liquorice wood. The camphor side, with eucalyptus and mint, works very well. Mouth (neat): very strong tar, varnish, liquorice, and pine resin. Be careful, you might end up swallowing some. With water: don’t let your guard down! Overripe banana and wood glue. Finish: very long, heavy on varnish, glue, and liquorice. A slightly bitter aftertaste, with aubergines and tar. Comments: to be honest, I didn’t know that, like Caroni, TDL made both a light and a heavy style. It shows I’ll never be a rum blogger. Mad rum.
SGP:473 - 87 points.

A little Jamaican to finish...

Long Pond 17 yo 2005/2023 ‘MJV’ (66.1%, The Whisky Blues, Jamaica, barrel, 259 bottles)

12 years tropical aging + 5 years continental. Very, very nice label, I think we should encourage bottlers who don’t go the ChatGPT + thirty seconds route. Honestly, it’s becoming atrocious; the only upside is it makes you want to drink a lot to forget. I propose a moratorium on the use of ChatGPT for designing in the spirits world, what do you think? Because frankly… Colour: full gold. Nose: it's a classic high-ester Jamaican, with varnish, petrol, olives, overripe banana… With water: cedarwood, banana peel, nail polish, new plywood. Mouth (neat): a tad tough. Marzipan, Play-Doh, glue, rubber, bitters… With water: still on petrol, varnish, acetone, wood juice… Seriously, it’s tough, a bit of a masochistic thing. Finish: long, but even drier. There are good aspects, but it also turns a tad soapy. Comments: a rum for survivalists? Would it repel bears, wolves, and hyenas? At this stage, I believe it’s a bit too much.
SGP:372 - 83 points.

They have wonderful spirits at The Whisky Blues, but that one was a bit excessive IMHO. Personal taste.

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far


July 5, 2024

A few whiskies from around the world once again

And yes, we’re leaving from France, as usual.

A. Roborel de Climens (48%, OB, French oak + Vin jaune Domaine Badoz, 1997 bottles)

30 months in each kind of cask. Colour: gold. Nose: lovely notes of vin jaune, indeed, but also a hint of vin de paille which rounds the ensemble nicely. It isn’t as dry as one might expect, and the mustard, green walnuts, Savagnin, and curry notes aren’t overly dominant. It’s really very pleasant, bright, but not too much so, with everything blending rather well. In short, no dissonance here. Mouth: quite a lot of pears to start with, followed by touches of burnt wood. Indeed, it has a distinct Jura wine character, particularly vin jaune, but always balanced without that ultra-dry edge that we adore but isn’t necessarily fitting for a whisky. There are also notes of very ripe peaches. Finish: lovely length, the whole remaining quite smooth and well-mingled, always with a few raisins and that vin de paille character, but without any excess. Fresh walnuts and walnut liqueur complete the ensemble as expected. Comments: many French bottlers have tried to finish whiskies in vin jaune casks given the proximity in style between vin jaune and Sherry like finos. In my opinion, it hasn’t always worked, but here it does, without the harsh edge one might anticipate.
SGP:551 - 86 points.

Maltage 2018/2023 (52.9%, OB, Switzerland, fine de Merlot and bourbon)

MaltAge 2018/2023 (52.9%, OB, Switzerland, fine de Merlot and bourbon)

Colour: straw. Nose: a nose with quite a bit of depth, a slight burnt side, but also notes of soft sweets like Jelly Babies from Haribo, little orange sweets, and then some panettone dough and orange blossom. And of course, a slight muesli aspect, which, for some Swiss, is naturally only natural. But of course. With water: these Merlot stories really remind me of the film Sideways, which has already amused many wine enthusiasts. In any case, here we are not dealing with the old Pomerol side; it's much more about fresh fruits, especially after adding water. Then a slight earthy note appears, which is absolutely not unpleasant—quite the opposite, in fact. Mouth (neat): it's quite oily, somewhat rich, with a lovely fruity start featuring hints of papaya, Granny Smith apple, a bit of anise, some gentian, and perhaps celery. Overall, it's quite nicely balanced with depth. I really like it. With water: water further enhances the balance between the fresh fruits, the sweets, and the rooty, earthy side. Finish: a lovely length, always on those same slightly sweet root aromas and fresh fruits. Comments: this little Merlot has done a good job after all. So, red or white? It’s largely on par with a very good natural young Speyside, in my humble opinion. The merlot does not feel odd, I insist (believe me!)
SGP:641 - 85 points.

Well, it is true that it is now quite difficult to avoid any wine influence among all the world's new little whiskies, but the Scots are certainly not lagging behind, are they?

Morris of Rutherglen ‘Tokay Barrel’ (48%, OB, Australia, +/-2023)

Here we are in the state of Victoria with whisky makers who love to multiply the flavourings in various wine casks. Last time, we tasted whisky aged in smoked Muscat casks; it was quite an endeavour, but it wasn't bad at all (WF 83). This time, it's from Tokaji. I wonder if they imported one or several casks from Hungary. Did they really do that? Colour: gold. Nose: roasted with a touch of rubber and a basaltic aspect reminiscent of burnt cakes, not exactly typical of Australia, I concede. Then we have caramelised nuts and grilled pistachios, all working rather well together. The Tokaji influence is present but not overpowering, unlike some other Tokaji-cask finishes we've encountered in the past. Mouth: yes, it works fairly well, not too dissonant, though it does come off as slightly pre-mixed and perhaps a tad too sweet. Certainly not Eszencias-level, I imagine. Was it a true Tokaji cask? Finish: medium length with a faint smokiness, perhaps a hint of sulphur, mustard, and grilled nuts. There's a growing difficult influence, alongside bitter oranges. The aftertaste is a touch too bitter, somewhat artichoke-like. Comments: it started off promisingly but became a bit dissonant towards the end.
SGP:561 - 79 points.

Where we often laugh ourselves silly is when we receive press releases announcing that such and such distillery is innovating greatly by pairing their whiskies with various wines. They are all doing this at the moment and, of course, they have all found the Philosopher's Stone.

Morris-of-Rutherglen-Port-Barrel-47.5-OB-Australia-2023

Morris of Rutherglen ‘Port Barrel’ (47.5%, OB, Australia, +/-2023)

Of course, Port is an absolute must; is there still a range of whiskies that don't include Port casks? Colour: full gold. Nose: we quite like this as there's plenty of honey, and we do love honey. It's rather surprising since Port casks typically start with red berries, making one wonder if this might be white Port. In any case, these honeyed notes meld quite well with the malt, lending a delightful honey cake character that's anything but unpleasant. There's scarcely any blackcurrant, raspberry, strawberry, or other small fruits to be found. Mouth: and it works quite well on the palate, like a honey cake this time, with strawberry cake reminiscent of a fraisier, along with pistachio, baked honey, and a pronounced caramel note, with some flavoured coffee hints in the background à la Starbucks. It’s increasingly liquid caramel in fact. Finish: of medium length, it leans towards a sort of butterscotch flavoured with raspberry—quite amusing and not at all unpleasant, with a hint of ganache as well. Comments: it's not what one would expect, but I find this little Port quite easily outshines the Tokaji. The honeyed aspect is very nice.
SGP:651 – 84 points.

Kinglake 2019/2023 ‘L’Américain’ (61%, OB, Australia, finished in Fernando de Castilla PX, 160 bottles)

Actually only 18 months in ex-bourbon, then 24 months in sherry. We have already had several excellent whiskies from Kinglake, including a version called ‘American Werewolf in Paris,’ of which this one appears to be the sister cask. Of course, the house of Fernando de Castilla is very renowned. Colour: gold. Nose: curiously delicate for a whisky bottled at over 60%, and quite floral, making it rather elegant with a slightly feminine touch as one might have said a few years back, featuring hints of lily of the valley, wisteria, and a touch of orange cake. With water: The oils come to the fore, revealing some motor oil drops, V12 engine oil, paraffin oil, and a bit of kerosene – not expected, but rather charming. Mouth (neat): on the palate, it hits harder, of course, but that's the higher alcohol content making the whisky delightfully oily and rich, though slightly aggressive and a tad bitter. Best to add water swiftly. With water: it's tamed now, gentler, not really syrupy but almost, with notes of honey, mead, and faint hints of molasses. Perhaps some new wood in the background, though that shouldn't come from the Fernando de Castilla cask. Finish: medium length, elegant, with orange cake and nougat. The motor oil note lingers a bit in the aftertaste. Comments: and since we love motorsports... By the way, did you know that a cow pollutes more than a hundred V12 engines? And yet, we love animals at Whiskyfun Towers. SGP:
652 - 87 points.

It looks like we're a bit stuck in Australia, but we certainly won't complain about it.

Spring Bay 4 yo 2019/2023 (65.8%, Truth & Consequence, Tasmania, 100l Apera, cask #216)

Remember, apera used to be called ‘Australian sherry’, but they eventually chose another name. Sherry belongs to the Sherry triangle of Spain, naturally. Or we all call all world whiskies ‘Scotch’. Colour: golden amber. Nose: very, very lovely with abundant notes of grilled walnut, polish, slightly burnt kougelhopf, and subtle hints of beef broth with parsley and chervil. There's also a profusion of grilled hazelnuts and pecans, accompanied by a touch of very dark, concentrated maple syrup. I'm quite impressed. With water: the walnut and the polish become even more pronounced, along with a fair bit of modelling clay. The rest meanders between slightly overbaked cakes and caramel tarte, and it's all excellent. Mouth (neat): I really must take a closer look at this Spring Bay distillery, which I seem not to have known before. There's a slight varnish note that melds with touches of nutmeg and rather unusual saffron. Parsley makes another appearance, along with a hint of maple syrup that enhances the whole. With water: chestnut honey! My favourite, how convenient. The spices also come through more prominently, particularly clove and juniper. Finish: beautiful length, with cedarwood, a hint of nutmeg, and a bit of paprika—everything works well together. It seems there's a touch of smoked paprika; I absolutely adore smoked paprika; do you know it? Comments: I've just noticed that Angus reviewed a Spring Bay for The Whisky List and loved it (WF 88). Well, we won't need much convincing then.
SGP:662 - 87 points.

Killara-5-yo-2017-2023-63.5-Truth-Consequence-Tasmania-French-oak-Port-cask-cask-KD-TC001-53-bottles

Killara 5 yo 2017/2023 (63.5%, Truth & Consequence, Tasmania, French oak Port cask, cask # KD-TC001, 53 bottles)

This, is a first at château WF. Everyone will hate me for saying this, but in reality, all the new distilleries around the world look somewhat similar, although they are all quite lovely, of course. Colour: amber. Nose: a tad strong, of course, but with a lovely caramel, pretty pralines, nougat, and always some burnt cake. One inevitably thinks the cask had a lot of influence, bringing us back to the eternal question of whether whisky is really just about wood, which is clearly completely false, yet somewhat true. In any case, there's not much of a vinous presence marked by red fruits, Port, etc. With water: a bit of natural yoghurt, a touch of raw ham, and a hint of dust and rennet… rather unusual, indeed. Mouth (neat): of course, it's good, with a Bourbon-like aspect, but also notes of Swiss cheese or Comté, caramel, hints of mashed turnip, and quite a bit of pipe tobacco. Nutmeg and saffron linger in the background. With water: a return of caramel that pleases everyone. In fact, it's more of a caramel heading towards fudge, as found in whisky countries' tourist shops. Finish: a slight touch of yoghurt, mashed turnips, etc. Perhaps not its finest moment. Pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: it's nice, but I find the Spring Bay somewhat superior, at least cleaner. It might be the other way around next time.
SGP:561 - 83 points.

Scapegrace ‘Fortitude’ (46%, OB, New Zealand, release V, virgin French oak, 8,643 bottles, 2023)

I know we’ve changed country. It’s a bit sad that it’s NAS, no one expects old age from a new whisky, but it’s always nice to know. This is our very first Scapegrace on WF, even Angus has never tried it. Of course, it was available at Whisky Live Paris last year, but the issue is that there are millions of new spirits at Whisky Live Paris, and we're unlikely to prioritise NAS, even if it’s Ardbeg. There, I’ve said it. Colour: golden amber. Nose: really focused on fresh wood, a soft wood of course, but well toasted in the style of many new very young bourbons, whether sourced or not. A hint of charcoal, but also some notes of cranberry and raspberries, it seems very young and very wood-driven, but honestly, it's pleasant. Mouth: it's like pine wood with hints of thyme, resins, pinecones, nutmeg, and certainly ginger. The cask is doing the heavy lifting here. Finish: it's extremely well-constructed but for me, it's too dominated by the cask, not much of the distillate comes through. Plenty of sweet and honeyed spices, it feels like you're in a souk in Istanbul. Comments: very nice but it has a bit of a laboratory feel. We'll have to see how it evolves over the years.
SGP:551 - 78 points.

One last one, let’s make it a Hellyers Road, please.

Hellyers Road 19 yo 2004/2023 (69.9%, OB, LMDW, New Vibrations, Tasmania, peated, American oak, cask #4085.05)

I find these new bottles a bit neutral, but at least they fit on the shelves. For me, Hellyers Road is among the best distilleries in the world, similar to Smögen in Sweden or Millstone in Holland. Of course, there are others; these were just examples. Colour: gold. Nose: sublime, Ardbeggian, with hints of rubber boots, mango, pink grapefruit, and a crystalline peat that leans heavily on lemon, with touches of absinthe, dill, and mandarin. It’s brilliantly luminous and simply irresistible, even at nearly 70% ABV. With water: strictly no change, how curious! With more water: still no change! At around 40% ABV: same. Mouth (neat): sublime. Lemons, mint, herbal smoke, seaweed, smoked salmon, samphire, bouchot mussels, grapefruit… With water: extraordinary notes of exotic fruits, herbal smoke, leaves, and all sorts of lemon. Finish: not eternal, but of ultimate precision on the finest of citrus. Comments: these Hellyers Road whiskies have become extraordinary, such a pity we live 16,725.55 km away as the crow flies. They ought to set up small-scale production units abroad, much like the brewers do. I’ve got room in my garden for a ‘pocket distillery’. Otherwise, this is a magnificent whisky, perfectly balanced, almost Raphael-esque. The only slight drawback is the aftertaste, which is just a tad below the rest, but that’s being nit-picky.
SGP:665 - 92 points.

It's been great Downunda, see you.

Check the index of all Whiskies of the World we've tasted so far


July 4, 2024

A small quartet of independent Glen Moray

We have a fondness for Glen Moray, a distillery that has supported many enthusiastic beginners due to its carefully considered quality/price policy. We’ll always remember the former manager Stuart Tompson, who later moved to Ardbeg and who passed away this year. The deafening silence from his former employers has been quite remarkable, by the way.

(A mauresque, 3cl pastis, 1cl orgeat/almond sirup)

Glen Moray 15 yo 2005/2021 (54.7%, The Whisky Cellar, Private Cellars Selection, bourbon barrel, cask #6918, 182 bottles)

Colour: white wine. Nose: so typical! Hay, straw, apples, grains, brioche, vanilla, pilsner beer, pizza dough (not from Domino’s, mind you) … With water: gueuze, almond milk, custard, apple juice… Mouth (neat): very good, fresh, fruity with fresh hazelnuts, rhubarb, Granny Smith apples, half a cup of green tea, malty notes, café latte… With water: adds syrups, cane, agave, barley… Actually, it becomes quite sweet but remains balanced. Finish: let’s say it, there’s a Nutella side. Please accept, ladies and gentlemen, our deepest apologies. Also Piedmont hazelnut cream with white chocolate. A killer, it should be banned, better to sip Glen Moray, it’s healthier. Comments: a perfect malt "at 85" in our book.
SGP:641 - 85 points.

Glen Moray 2007/2022 (53.7%, Caora, N°12, cask #5672, 273 bottles)

We love these sober and distinguished labels. It’s becoming quite rare in Scotchdom. Colour: straw. Nose: very similar but more on kirsch, fruit stones, almonds, also very tight citrus, think finger limes. Orgeat. Makes you want to pour some in pastis, creating what we call a "mauresque." With water: same sensations, plus apple juice. Glen Moray, when not boosted by weird casks, always leans towards apple juice. I insist, it’s good for your health (they’ll shut this miserable site down one day, I’m sure). Mouth (neat): citrus takes the lead, and we must mention homemade limoncello again. Lemon peel, cane sugar. With water: the same, plus kirsch or any other stone fruit-based spirit. Finish: the same. Comments: it really doesn’t disappoint.
SGP:551 - 85 points.

Glen Moray 15 yo 2007/2023 (55.6%, Premium-drinks, Switzerland, bourbon barrel, cask #1609, 199 bottles)

I think all Glen Moray we’ve had today were for Switzerland. Hallo, Nachbarn. Colour: gold. Nose: buttercream, buttery croissants, vanilla fudge, orgeat syrup again, white chocolate, roasted hazelnuts, sesame halva… Here we are really close to the original sin. With water: white chocolate and Earl Grey tea. Mouth (neat): perfect, young calvados, young rum, chestnut purée, blond nougat, drops of pinot gris… With water: same. Finish: long, same. Very ‘barley’ and praline. Comments: the totally natural side of these Glen Moray is just wonderful. It’s brilliant to stay close to the ingredients and away from the improbable seasonings that may sometimes overly aromatise ‘malt whisky’ these days. Is it malt, or is it not malt?
SGP:651 - 87 points.

Glen Moray 14 yo 2007/2022 ‘Hong Kong Memories’ (53.7%, Joint bottling for Hong Kong Whisky Bars, finished in first fill oloroso sherry, casks #6548 + 6549, 248 bottles)

A joint bottling for bars Butler, Casky, Club Qing, House Welley, Malt Cask, The Whisky Gallery, and Wood Ear. It was finished in a proper solera butt, which has become even more uncommon than it used to be. I believe it is the Aberdeen Jumbo floating restaurant on the label; we had lunch there in 1987. An impressive place where, it seems, Queen Elizabeth II, Jimmy Carter, Tom Cruise, and Gong Li have also dined. Alas, the floating restaurant had to be relocated to Cambodia but sank during the journey in 2022. Colour: gold. Nose: a full blast of roasted nuts, walnut liqueur, coffee, very dark chocolate, and a few touches of mustard, very typically heavy sherry. It’s closer to a Glenfarclas than a Glen Moray, in my humble opinion. With water: an avalanche of brown tobacco, reminiscent of Gauloises or Gitanes, if that means anything to you. Mouth (neat): a rich and peppery sherry that reminds us even more of GF. Very powerful, very dry, like biting into 90% cocoa chocolate. A few Corinthian raisins add a bit of roundness. With water: chocolate stuffed with rum-soaked raisins. Finish: long, with a more glutamate-like side. Very peppery beef broth and a bit of honey in the aftertaste. Comments: also a little reminiscent of the sublime official vintage editions distilled in the late 50s and early 60s. The 1962 at 50.9% is particularly impressive. One should take their time and love sherry as much as I do. Otherwise…
SGP:462 - 87 points.

Check the index of all Glen Moray we've tasted so far


July 3, 2024

A Dailuaine Quartet

A very old-school distillery, I have engravings from the time of its reconstruction at the end of the 19th century, they are magnificent. The distillery was called Dail-Uaine at the time, at least according to the drawings by the famous architect Charles C. Doig. It used to be the first distillery to sport a pagoda roof to ventilate the kiln.

Dailuaine 13 yo 2009 (46%, Van Wees, The Ultimate, bourbon hogsheads, casks #313945, 46, 50)

Colour: white wine. Nose: these typical greasy, paraffiny touches, over ripe apples, and pears. Some sunflower oil, broken branches, celeriac, and other root vegetables, and lastly, some barley sirup. Perhaps not the shiniest star ever but I like this fattish style, it’s probably a perfect filler. Mouth: the root vegetables are back, immediately. More celeriac, turnips, also radishes, plus some green apples and a touch of lemon. The paraffin oil remains there too. Finish: medium, very faintly fizzy, and gingery, but apples and oils have kept control. Some porridge and sourdough too. 46% remains a perfect bottling strength. Comments: a very textured, oily malt, as we knew it. It’s great to have it al natural.
SGP:461 - 84 points.

Another 2009…

Dailuaine 14 yo 2009/2024 (48.1%, James Eadie, 1st fill Malaga butt finish, cask #361937, 369 bottles)

A 34-month finish in Malaga. Let's dream it was PX seco under flor, they make splendid ones in Malaga. Remember, 34 months is still a finish, but from 36 months and 1 day, I think you can call it ‘maturation’. Colour: pale gold. Nose: I swear it smells like PX seco from Malaga. I adore it, much like many PX secos, which I find immensely superior to the sweeter versions. Damp earth, soft mustard, green walnuts, a drop of cider vinegar, tart apple juice, pepper, then the oily side of Dailuaine. The combination is perfect. Water isn’t necessary. Mouth: similar, mustard and walnuts, a bit of truffle oil (definitely not olive oil), clay, a touch of tobacco, cooked bell pepper, artichokes in oil... Finish: long, with a lovely bitterness. And a Picasso touch (Malaga, Picasso, got it?). Candied lemon in the aftertaste balances everything. Comments: let's say it, James Eadie are becoming quite annoying with their finishes that always work so well (full disclosure: I am jesting).
SGP:371 - 87 points.

Dailuaine 10 yo 2013/2023 (59%, Lady of the Glen, Tawny Port finish, cask # 302795, 272 bottles)

Two years in a Port cask, we’re off to hunt for red fruits... Colour: gold. No red fruits in sight. Nose: fair enough, it’s a bit winey, with some fresh wood, banana, muesli, sweet natural wine (Vin Doux Naturel), and cooking jam... All in all, it’s quite nice. With water: Turkish delights, rose liqueur, gewurztraminer, red pralines tarte... Mouth (neat): the fatty side is there, otherwise it’s a tad fizzy, with Fanta and 7up, and especially a Red Bull note. The drink that, according to the adverts, makes you do extreme things, like jumping from an upside-down helicopter. Almost. With water: strawberry syrup and a bit of tequila. We’re moving further away from malty territories, but it’s a lot of fun. Finish: same, more black pepper. Strawberries and pepper, a winning combo. Comments: very amusing. Frankly, right now, we all need a laugh and that’s why we’ll add a few points to our score.
SGP:731 - 82 points.

Dailuaine 11 yo 2011 (59.6%, Glen Castle SMWD, Taiwan, bourbon hogshead, cask #307371, 223 bottles)

It’s absolutely fascinating to find on the labels of Scottish whiskies, the cultures of each importing country. I think it’s quite easy to identify a bottling for Taiwan, Hong Kong, or China, for Japan, for France, for Germany… and maybe even for the Vatican. Ha. Remember, twenty or thirty years ago, everyone put tartans, bagpipes, thistles, Celtic crosses, or various deer heads. Colour: gold. Nose: oh, peat? It wouldn’t be impossible if the hogshead was ex-peated. Apart from that, you find lovely notes of fresh flowers, peony, wisteria, and especially those typical vegetable oils, sunflower, sesame... With water: no, the peat has gone, making way for vanilla cake, pear cake, fresh nougat, and a bit of hummus (chickpea and sesame). Mouth (neat): very good, fat, malty, and full of orange cake and praline. But it’s a bit strong... With water: pear juice, black nougat, touches of coffee, pink pepper, and black pepper. Finish: long and more peppery. A bit of ginger and an earthy note at the very end, and of course paraffin since it’s Dailuaine. Comments: a very fine young Dailuaine, with lovely pepper warming your soul and heart.
SGP:551 - 86 points.

By the way, I’ve discovered that some friends think that the higher the 'SGP', the better the whisky. No, not at all, it has nothing to do with it. You can have an '8' for 'P', meaning very peaty, and a disastrous whisky. Right, let’s finish this with an old one...

Dailuaine 40 yo 1983/2023 (54%, Wilson & Morgan, Barrel Selection, refill oloroso butt, cask #701, 297 bottles)

This is only half of the butt, the other half having been bottled a few years ago. Colour: full gold. Nose: it’s full of old rancio, leather, tobacco, aged ham, various fats, white truffle, roasted baby artichokes, porcini in oil… In short, it’s extremely Italian, which will surprise no one. Bakelite, engine oil, very nice sulphur notes, absolutely not a flaw in this context. Barbour grease (which, let’s agree, isn’t very Italian). With water: twelve tons of artichokes and twenty tons of aubergines, all baked to perfection. Mouth (neat): superb, just the right amount of sulphur, just the right amount of pepper, packed with nougat, turron and halva, cooked wines, dried figs, orange toffee, pipe tobacco… With water: quite sublime, very stylish, very distinctive, almost stubborn. Honey-roasted aubergines with figs, plus a bit of ash (from that famous pipe). Finish: long, very tertiary, but also secondary and even primary. In short, an old Dailuaine Matryoshka doll. Go figure... Tobacco, figs, and leather. Comments: delightful old Dailuaine. It’s brilliant that it has preserved its DNA after all these years.
SGP:572 - 92 points.

Next time you have some Dailuaine in your glass, you’ll notice, after finishing it, how much it coats the sides with a sort of oily and very fragrant residue. If you want to reuse the glass immediately, rinse it with sparkling water, which will remove the fatty molecules much better than still water. Ideally, use sparkling water first (definitely avoid Coca Cola), then discard or drink it, then rinse with still water. My tuppence.

Check the index of all Dailuaine we've tasted so far


July 2, 2024

A new quartet from Tullibardine (plus last minute bonus)

We’d like to find a truly clean one that has not met with a lot of fresh oak and/or wines. Like refill… That said, we have a fondness for Tullibardine, while it is not easy when you're at the very end of the alphabet... And we don't say this just because the distillery has been belonging to the French group Picard since 2011. (picture Westgate Wine)

Tullibardine 18 yo 2005 (43%, OB, +/-2024)

We’ve never tried this official 18-year-old until now. The bottle is elegant and attractive, and the price is relatively reasonable. It’s a mix of first-fill bourbon and ex-sherry, so perhaps it’s not quite at the pinnacle of distillate-driven malts, but let’s see. Colour: gold. Nose: there’s a pronounced porridge note, wort, beer, sourdough, country bread, a touch of mild mustard, then some gravel and cement, followed by ripe bananas, apples, and a slight muscat note. It’s very much ‘Tullibardine’. Mouth: really lovely, with a return of the mustard and a hint of leather, but also oranges and other citrus fruits. There’s a bit of cumin, pepper, muesli, porridge again, then a lemony hint that ties everything together nicely. Also a touch of ginger and turmeric. The texture is pleasantly oily. Let’s say somewhat oily. Finish: not very long but still lovely, this time with a slight amontillado touch. Comments: it’s a unique malt but very well balanced, we like it a lot.
SGP:561 - 86 points.

This one could be 'clean'...

Tullibardine 12 yo 2010/2023 (50%, Claxton’s Exploration Series, bourbon hogshead)

We're not losing our way with this series (so well done, S., great form!) Colour: White wine, which is confirmed. Nose: One can indeed find that mustardy hint and that rustic country bread, even pumpernickel, with the rest mingling between cider apples, quinces, green bananas, fresh figs, and a few wildflowers. It's a delightful juice. With water: a return to porridge with bits of grapefruit. A croissant or two with butter (thankfully no icing sugar or almonds) complete the profile. Mouth (neat): Quite unique this time, with a touch of mustard, heaps of raw cane sugar, lemon liqueur, a bit of ginseng, and a hint of very malty brown beer. With water: malt, sweet apples, a touch of pepper, and a few coriander seeds... Finish: Medium length, with no notable changes except it becomes sweeter. There's a coastal note in the aftertaste, almost reminiscent of oysters. Go on, have a little oyster. Comments: Another very lovely one. Let's say it, Tullibardine has immensely improved over the last fifteen or twenty years.
SGP: 651 - 85 points.

Tullibardine 17 yo 2005/2023 (52.9%, Acla Selection, Switzerland, hogshead, cask #772, 120 bottles)

Our friends at Acla da Fans had already bestowed upon us a magnificent Tullibardine 32-year-old from 1989 two years ago (WF 88). Colour: gold. Nose: more watts, more wet chalk, more candied citrus, quince jelly, apricot jam, but also touches of spent matches and even burnt powder. However, this isn't off-putting at all, quite the opposite. The traditional mustardy notes are very much present as well. With water: whiffs of horse saddle, mustard, and even a hint of stable. Quite enjoyable. Mouth (neat): oh, mango in Tullibardine? Along with mustard, nutmeg, leather, and pepper? With water: it nearly shifts to fruit jam, apricots, quinces, apples, with just a touch of pepper. Finish: long, more peppery, with a sooty side as well. Bitter walnuts in the aftertaste. Comments: there's always something happening in a Tullibardine.
SGP:652 - 86 points.

Tullibardine 15 yo 2008/2023 (58.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, Kirsch exclusive, refill bourbon barrel, cask #21603506, 263 bottles)

Imagine that this is the first Tullibardine by G&M we’re tasting! Colour: white wine. Nose: it's more old-fashioned, with a much waxier side, paraffin, linseed oil, celeriac, turnips, even a bit of black garlic and mustard (that was expected), before the cider apples take over. It's intriguing. With water: who had the idea to mix Barbour grease with lime juice? Mouth (neat): we’re having a lot of fun. Pastis, dill, still those tart apples, grapefruit... It has a remarkably tense side, almost heading towards absinthe, or at least wormwood. With water: again, a little salty and mustardy note, some ash, capers, soot, lemon zest, oils, and fats... There's really nothing quite like it. Finish: long, tense, waxy, rustic. Lemon peel in the aftertaste. Comments: it’s robust and rustic. I like it a lot, especially since we’re quite rustic too at Château WF.
SGP:661 - 87 points.

Very pleased with these 'Tullies'. Wait wait wait, this baby just in as we speak… An old one!

Tullibardine 30 yo 1991/2021 (43.1%, GourmetPool, Germany, bourbon hogshead, cask #375, 190 bottles)

We tasted a superb Ardbeg by GourmetPool last year, fantastic (WF93). But now it's Tullibardine, and although Tullibardine can be very impressive, as we have just seen, it is not Ardbeg (you say so, S.!) Colour: pale white wine, quite astonishing for a whisky of this age. Nose: I find it exceedingly typical with an abundance of soot and ashes, a hint of charred wood, even charcoal, followed by clear notes of old manzanilla en rama. Plenty of green walnuts, bitter oranges, paraffin, and a touch of grilled aubergines, then rather bitter and acidic coffee, perhaps Ethiopian mocha, which I adore. Possibly a third or fourth fill cask, allowing the distillate to fully express itself. Nearly forgot, there are those little mustard and caper notes, very distinctive. Mouth: Again, very typical with a lovely bitterness, always a charred and mustardy side, then leather and tobacco. It becomes a bit chalky, with grapefruit juice and that famous manzanilla keeping everything on track. I find this style ultra-authentic and thus very impressive. The low alcohol content is never an issue. Finish: medium length but remarkably powerful, perhaps a manzanilla from Equipo Navazos or Bodegas Tradición? Aftertaste of mustard, green walnuts, and seawater. Comments: It's hard to be more precise and respectful of the distillate. No cardboardy or musty notes (just saying).
SGP:372 - 90 points.

Check the index of all Tullibardine we've tasted so far


July 1, 2024

Some petits Glenfarclas

Ronald Zwartepoorte for Glenfarclas (Netherlands, circa 2008)

Speyside 7 yo (46%, The Whisky Shop, A Dram to Share, 10cl, 2024)

Sometimes, one does odd things. I bought this wee dram in a Whisky Shop in the north of Scotland for the price of a sandwich. I wasn’t hungry. They told me it was Glenfarclas. I couldn't find any information about this baby on the net, but that’s no bother at all. Colour: white wine. Nose: fresh and malty, very much on slightly ripe apples, with just a hint of smoke and a touch of rubber (new wellingtons). I’m not sure if it’s indeed Glenfarclas, but it certainly seems like it. It's rare to taste it in this state (very young and without any sherry at all). Mouth: malty, fine, on vanilla and scones, milk chocolate and white chocolate, chicory, Ovomaltine/Ovaltine, roasted peanuts, and ale... I quite like it. Surely, it must exist in bottles, no? Finish: long, this time on nougat and roasted hazelnuts. A drop of stout. Comments: jolly good. I thank the chap from the Whisky Shop in Inverness for his excellent recommendation (and for not treating me like a tourist!)
SGP:551 - 86 points.

Glenlitigious 12 yo 2012/2024 (53%, Whisky Sponge, 1st fill barrel & 1st fill sherry hogshead, 215 bottles)

The phrase 'We have finished their whisky, and you can too' on the label leaves no doubt for those who appreciate old adverts for Scottish whiskies. It references that extraordinary Glenfarclas line, 'We don't need to finish our whiskies, but you can.' Back then, finishing was seen as a vulgar trickery used only by third-rate brands. Nowadays, second-rate brands have also jumped on the bandwagon. Colour: full gold. Nose: spot on. Loads of roasted peanuts, cedarwood, grilled chestnuts, raisin rolls, a touch of earthiness, and those liquid concoctions from Starbucks... With water: shoe polish emerges, which is also typical. Mouth (neat): excellent, with pronounced exotic wood, hazelnut-flavoured coffee (from the aforementioned brand), more Ovomaltine, toffees, hints of parsley, liquorice, and menthol... It’s a lovely beast, reminding me of the official releases of the 1989 or 1990 vintages. Finish: long, mingling chocolate, roasted chestnuts, earth, marmalade, and mint. Comments: it’s rare for an independent bottling to resemble official versions so closely.
SGP:562 - 88 points.

Of course, we go on with an OB…

Glenfarclas '180th Anniversary' (59.7%, OB, Taiwan exclusive, 2016)

The 175th Anniversary at 43% vol. had been excellent, and the 185th Anniversary at 46% too, but it looks like we’ve never tried this 180th, bottled for Taiwan. We do expect quite a bit of sherry, although modern Taiwanese enthusiasts seem to have much broader tastes. Colour: full gold. Nose: strange. Much shoe polish and old floorcloth, meats, stale teas... I suppose water is obligatory. With water: it's better, but these notes of burnt wood and extinguished cigars work only moderately well, in my humble opinion. Mouth (neat): much better than on the nose! Walnut and hazelnut liqueur, thick molasses, treacle toffee, roasted malt... With water: sardines, really? Where does that salty note come from? Chinese noodle soup with beef, teriyaki... It's quite surprising, but it grows on you. The wood becomes a bit too prominent, however. Finish: long, with chili coming out of the wood, paprika, coffee... Comments: it’s very good but I’m not a perpetual fan of this rather spicy GF. It's a bit of a 'fusion' malt between Chinese and European tastes. In theory, that could become totally brilliant. In theory.
SGP:571 - 83 points.

Check the index of all Glenfarclas we've tasted so far

June 2024

Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Brora 44 yo 1977 ‘Untold Depths’ (49.1%, OB, Distillery Collection, refill hogshead, cask #2637, 150 bottles, 2024) - WF 95

Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Rosebank 14 yo1966/1980 (46%, Cadenhead, Aberdeen, black dumpy, 75cl) - WF 93

Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
None (we're afraid)

Serge's favourite malternative this month:
Peyrot 'V.60 A.63' (42.9%, Old Master Spirits, Australia, Grande champagne, 155 bottles) - WF 92

Serge's thumbs up this month:
Askeim 8 yo (57.7%, OB, Smögen, Sweden, 2024) - WF 90

Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
Dzama 'Ambré de Nosy Bé' (52%, OB, Madagascar, Prestige, +/-2022) - WF 50

June 2024 - part 2 <--- July 2024 - part 1 ---> July 2024 - part 2

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Best spirits Serge tried those weeks, 90+ points only