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| Hi, you're in the Archives, April 2025 - Part 2 |
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April 20, 2025 |
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The Easter Bunny brought a few rums
Forget that, let’s just go with the flow, alright? As long as we steer clear straight away of those artificially sweetened monstrosities we usually subject ourselves to—for the sake of our common cause… After all, it is Easter today.
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Saint James 9 yo ‘Hors d’Âge’ (43%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2024) 
An expression from Saint James we had never come across before, I mean on our official tasting desk. Colour: full gold. Nose: a delicately smoked rendition, with touches of copper polish, exhaust pipe, cherry stem tea, cedarwood, incense and jasmine. It’s really delicately perfumed, heading towards potpourri. Mouth: the liquorice wood is more prominent on the palate, with tobacco and ashes too, then some pine resin and lastly, an exceedingly ripe banana. Finish: it ends on adorable honeyed notes and a few touches of varnish, heading towards wild strawberries. Wild strawberries in Martinique? Comments: this is classy, and a nine years of age, is more elegant than a ten from a marketing point of view. I know what I mean.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Nine Leaves 2017/2024 (59%, OB, Japan, small batch, ex-bourbon) 
One of those modern rums I hadn’t quite grasped until now, but our soul remains pure and our spirit willing, so back to the drawing board we go… Colour: amber. Nose: rather discreet, on figs and nougat, with the bourbon element seemingly calling the shots. Very faint metallic touches, sweetcorn, a fleeting puff of patchouli and a medley of dried fruits. With water: mosses, ferns, and liquorice wood. Mouth (neat): a surprisingly malty side, with raisins and a touch of natural sweet wine. With water: dried fruits again, a bit of ale, light yeasts, hints of dulce de leche and liquorice rolls. Finish: similar profile, good length, with soft liquorice and chicory lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: really quite good, just not overwhelmingly memorable, in my very humble opinion. Still, I believe this may be my favourite Nine Leaves so far.
SGP:551 - 82 points. |
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New Yarmouth 2009/2024 (61.2%, Swell de Spirits, Eastern Tales, Constantia Bordeaux, Jamaica, bourbon, 200 bottles) 
SdS persist in their delightfully offbeat labelling antics, this rum—unlike the previous one—having nothing remotely Japanese about it, or so it seems. Rather amusing. Colour: straw. Nose: very high-ester, with carbon, two-stroke moped mix, green olives and oil paint (which is trickier than watercolour – alright, forget that). With water: olive oil, sage, lime juice, oregano, shallots, white wine vinegar, tarragon… Mouth (neat): crushed green olives with chilli, green pepper and diesel. Something along those lines. With water: adorably zingy, citrusy and, above all, absolutely stuffed with olives, though there’s just the right dab of cane syrup to round things out. Finish: long, surprisingly well-balanced, and frankly too easy to drink. The salinity remains absolutely splendid. Comments: sorry, I simply can’t resist this sort of thing, long live Jamaica.
SGP:562 - 90 points. |
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Clarendoni 25 yo 1997/2023 (60%, Rum Sponge Special Edition, blend, Trinidad & Jamaica, 95 bottles)
The ex-Sponge dared! Blending Clarendon with Caroni! Colour: dark bright amber. Nose: well then, here we are, The ex-Sponge has only gone and reinvented navy rum for the very, very senior officers of the Royal Navy. As a Frenchman, I hate to say this, but it’s magnificent on the nose, with an elegantly woody profile, Christmas fir, antique furniture and well-aged Iberian ham. Insert a few swear words here, if you please. With water: thuja wood. Mouth (neat): it’s unbelievably coherent, perhaps the most un-blend of all blended rums. Sublime resins and floral honeys, with a colossal wave of salty liquorice. With water: dreadful, disgusting, undrinkable, a Trafalgar of rum. Finish: very long, unbearable, monstrously saline and fuel-oily. Concentrated salted liquorice in the aftertaste. Comments: a pity we’re so late to the game; we might have lodged a formal complaint with the International Court of Justice. Probably time-barred now.
SGP:463 - 92 points. |
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Barbados 16 yo 2006/2023 (60.6%, Transcontinental Rum Line, LMDW Singapore, 18th Anniversary, cask #F06FV06, 260 bottles)
14 years in the tropics, 2 years in Europe. Colour: amber. Nose: praline and nougat, with cane syrup and maple syrup in the Foursquare style. Wee touches of coconut liqueur. With water: lovely freshness, coconut milk and almond milk, plus orange blossom water. Mouth (neat): creamy, on oranges, honey and pepper. With water: the pot still component takes charge, with hints of petrol, varnish and mild brine, though the texture remains light. Finish: medium in length, a touch salty, on triple sec and cane syrup. Comments: very good, but also very gentle. Which is just as well—we could all use a bit more gentleness in this world.
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
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Jamaican Rum 23 yo 2000/2024 (54.8%, Bedford Park, North Coast Distillers, cask #2205306, 402 bottles) 
Fully ex-new French oak, which I find a tad odd, but still, all joy lies in nature’s diversity. Colour: amber. Nose: espresso and olive oil—isn’t that a bit unusual? Then paint and varnish, liquorice, solvents, nail polish, patchouli, bidis, Tiger Balm, and a freshly unwrapped vinyl LP… With water: lovely maritime freshness, seaweed, seawater, oyster, petrol… Mouth (neat): simple and perfect. Liquorice, lemon, olives, acetone. Amen. With water: the usual suspects—green and black olives, brine, paint, tar, seawater, lemon… Finish: much the same… Massive black olives in the aftertaste. Comments: we hesitate—we’re not entirely convinced it’s Hampden, or even genuinely ex-new French oak—but it’s pretty superb all the same, especially if you love black olives as much as we do.
SGP:462 - 89 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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April 18, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today Strathmill
Once again, as part of our special programme ‘No Scottish Distillery Left Behind’ — which is becoming increasingly hard to uphold as the number of new ‘world’ whiskies continues to skyrocket. At just two pretty small and recent festivals, we came across at least fifteen new distilleries we’d never even heard of before. Seriously.
Carthusian walnut liqueur (Liqueur de Noix des Pères Chartreux - La Boutique de Théophile)
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Strathmill 10 yo 2014/2024 (51.1%, Murray McDavid, Benchmark, Koval quarter cask finish, 1174 bottles) 
Certainly, ‘Benchmark’ is the name of the range, but it still feels a tad peculiar to see it pinned on a young Strathmill finished in… well, what exactly? What sort of Koval was it then? Rye? Bourbon? Millet? Truth be told, a benchmark for us would rather be a Springbank 1965, a Macallan 1957, a Brora 1972 or a Bowmore 1964… Ah well, onwards… Colour: straw. Nose: well, this is pleasant, fresh, with cider apples, barley, lemon, green pear and a touch of fresh cement (no worries). With water: rounder, with vanilla custard, yellow fruit jam and barley syrup. Mouth (neat): creamy mouthfeel, most likely courtesy of the American oak, with lemon blossom honey, more pear, sponge cake, vanilla and indeed, wee touches of rye. It’s perhaps a little gender-fluid in style, and that’s no bad thing. With water: not much change, save for a little extra fresh oakiness. Finish: good length, rather gentle and malty. The pear and the oak continue to hum sweetly in the aftertaste. Comments: nothing to add really, it’s just very good.
SGP: 541- 84 points. |
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Strathmill 12 yo 2012/2024 ‘Edition #36’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 100 Proof, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt)
Once again with these cleverly upmarketed series, premiumised from the inside rather than through flashy labels or packaging, and perfectly timed with the shifting sands of the whisky market. Or so it seems to me. Less than €50 a bottle, by the way. Colour: full gold. Nose: no denying the sherry’s doing the heavy lifting here, as Strathmill’s distillate isn’t quite assertive enough to take charge. That said, there’s a lovely mentholated note riding alongside chocolate and prunes, with a dab of soy sauce and a few earthy roots. With water: brownies and an amusing touch of sweetish garlic. Mouth (neat): really good, kicking off with a tiny morsel of candied ginger, then moving on to walnut liqueur, dark chocolate and a teaspoon of beef bouillon, even with a faint dusting of ground coriander. With water: a hint of blueberry tart. Finish: long and a tad more peppery, with a rather splendid bittersweet sherry and a touch of fresh turmeric. Comments: these bottlings strike me as particularly clever. There, it’s said.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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April 17, 2025 |
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From oranges, high altitude or a NATO bunker, a few more whiskies from around the world |
As usual, when we say ‘whiskies from around the world’, we’re excluding the major whisky-producing nations — Scotland, Ireland, Japan and, rather conveniently given the current climate, the USA, which we’re not particularly drawn to at the moment. This is by no means a boycott, but rather a chance to quietly build up our stocks while we wait for our natural goodwill to gradually return. Hopefully that won’t take too long... Right then, let’s start in France — more precisely in Brittany, the most Celtic region of our little country. |
Casks of Swiss whisky maturing at an altitude
of 3,454 metres (Rugen) |
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Eddu 15 yo (43%, OB, Distillerie des Menhirs, France, +/-2025)
This well-aged Breton whisky, distilled entirely from buckwheat, was matured in ex-cognac casks, thus French oak unless struck by some unlikely mishap. Eddu carries a GI ‘Whisky de Bretagne’, which permits the use of buckwheat, itself a proud element of Breton identity—think of those famed buckwheat galettes (galettes de sarasin)! The last Eddu we tasted was the ‘Yes We Cam’ edition, which had been rather superb (WF 87). By the way, the distillery is located in Finistère. Colour: gold. Nose: less exuberantly fruity than expected, hence more composed, on banana and pear cake, scones, lovely caramel, then yellow peaches, rather fresh dried fruits and acacia and dandelion honeys. Subtle touches of orange blossom. Altogether very delicate, it does its fifteen years proud. Mouth: the raw materials come through more clearly, particularly beer and even a little mead, touches of cinnamon, hints of amaretti, white chocolate, then apricot and a teaspoon of Sauternes. Finish: nice length, a little more oaky but with finesse. The cognac doesn’t particularly show, unless, or because it’s been fully integrated. Comments: I believe this is technically a grain, yet it lacks the lightness one might associate with that category. One of the finest French whiskies in my humble opinion, far removed from that Napoleonic ethos seen elsewhere—you know, the sort of “let’s barge ahead, we’ll sort it later” philosophy.
SGP:641 - 87 points. |
From Finistère to Yorkshire… |
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Filey Bay ‘Orange Wine Barrique’ (46.2%, OB, England, 1,100 bottles, +/-2025)
Yay, some orange wine! These four casks hailed from Huelva in Spain and previously held ‘Vino Naranja del Condado de Huelva’. Careful now, let’s not rush—this isn’t ‘orange wine’, it’s ‘wine made with oranges’, a maceration made with orange zest and, like its cousin, protected by a GI. It’s aged in solera as is traditional in those parts. Colour: gold. Nose: this isn’t triple sec in the slightest, there’s no orange explosion; rather we’re in gently sweetened fino territory, joined by a dollop of marmalade, all resting on a faintly earthy base that’s really quite lovely. Elegant, almost like an Andalusian horsewoman (ahem). Mouth: the oranges come through more clearly on the palate, though still with balance, and one might detect hints of Bénédictine and old Grand Marnier. Or yes, even Dalmore that’s not overly winey. Good fun. Finish: long, increasingly on orange zest, yet never calling out for ice cubes. Comments: it’s cool, it’s charming, it’s unlikely—but it works. Right then, now we’re just waiting for a double maturation in orange wine casks…
SGP:741 - 84 points. |
From Yorkshire to Newfoundland… |
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Signal Hill ‘Founders Select Overproof’ (56.3%, OB, Canada, +/-2024) 
Viva Newfoundland, viva Canada! That said, I must confess I struggled a bit with their standard 40% ‘blend’, but this ought to be another matter entirely. As for what exactly it is, the bottle simply says “Whisky”. Colour: full gold. Nose: very light, vanilla-led, with gentle honey, puffs of blueberry muffin and enough popcorn to get you through a full Ingmar Bergman retrospective. With water: not too bad, a touch oilier, with faint hints of beeswax and tinned pineapple. Mouth (neat): this feels very much like a wheat whisky, sweet, extremely light in texture, almost as if some cane syrup had been added. With water: becomes lighter still and rather feeble, reminiscent of old-style grain whisky. Frankly, it reminds me of that whisky from the former GDR, Der Falckner. Word is the latter’s been faithfully recreated since the Wall came down! Finish: short, sugary. Comments: not a disaster, but for a malt enthusiast, the lack of texture is glaring. They ought to throw in more malt.
SGP:520 - 68 points. |
Since we’re in Canada, let’s head over to Vancouver Island… |
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Stillhead ‘Garry Oak’ (50%, OB, Canada, Rye, 470 bottles, 2025)
Here we are in British Columbia. This baby rye spent three and a half years in virgin American oak before being transferred to refill Garry oak from Oregon. Garry oak is said to be the only species native to B.C. – in fact, it’s Garryana, as used by Westland further south. Colour: full gold. Nose: the wood's vibrancy is stunning. Generally, I’m not one for overly oaky whiskies, but here the rye marries the wood beautifully, and the youthful age is never an issue. Certain notes bring to mind Polugar, that aged pot-still vodka. Brown sugar, cinnamon, fir, flambéed banana, mild curry, caraway, roasted pecans and a few hints of coffee. Impeccable. Mouth: delightful spices, caraway, lavender, cinnamon, turmeric, roasted millet, followed by violet and soft liquorice. This is excellent, and what’s certain is that this Garry deserves to be known. All jokes aside, this is a cracking alternative to the best of the new American craft whiskies. Finish: long, more on pumpernickel and rye bread. Bitter cocoa in the aftertaste. Comments: delighted to have stumbled upon this new creature in… Switzerland. Small world indeed.
SGP:462 - 88 points. |
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Swiss Mountain Whisky 12 yo ‘Ice Label’ (52.2%, OB, Rugenbräu, Switzerland, 980 bottles, 2025)
Utter madness really, albeit the charming kind. After spending four years at the distillery, these casks were hauled up to the Jungfrau to mature for a further eight years inside a cave carved into the ice at 3,454 metres above sea level. One imagines this did little to hasten maturation, but the whole operation certainly adds an undeniable cachet. Next time they might as well chuck the casks onto the Lauberhorn and go for a downhill speed record. Ha. Colour: deep gold. Nose: dark ale, yeasty notes, very ripe bananas, sesame and poppy seed bread, spent coffee grounds, grey pepper… There’s no shortage of activity here. The brew-like origins really shine through. With water: damp earth, beer, rum, autumn leaves. Mouth (neat): there’s more to this than just a good yarn—the whisky is genuinely very good, more chocolatey on the palate, with rum-and-raisin, fruitcake, spiced figs, toffee… With water: even better with water, seriously. Lovely baked fruits, slightly brined. Finish: dark rye bread and fruit loaves. Apricots and such. Cloves. Comments: here’s a new frontier—high-altitude ageing.
SGP:661 - 86 points. |
While we’re on the subject of mad ideas, let’s head over to Germany … |
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St. Kilian ‘Whisky Bunker Limited Release 2025’ (57%, OB, Germany, 476 bottles)
Matured, it would seem, in a former NATO bunker. The world of whisky appears increasingly populated by madmen, and that’s no small part of its charm. Colour: full gold. Nose: an avalanche of fresh breads of every stripe, drizzled with honey, apricot liqueur and a touch of orgeat syrup. The apricot liqueur is particularly forward. One hopes NATO won’t be needing this bunker any time soon. With water: earthy, bordering on compost—perhaps a gift from the bunker? Mouth (neat): sweet and spicy, almost Caribbean in style. That apricot liqueur reappears, joined by hints of cassava and gentian root, then mountain honey and more of those many breads. A slight cocoa edge from the wood. With water: the spices go absolutely wild. Finish: long, drier, with a salty touch and even a note of roasted aubergine. Comments: I reckon they’re just getting better and better, easily among Europe’s top producers—and all without taking themselves too seriously, which in my book is the ultimate virtue.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
Since it seems that, unless I’m wrong, there’s no whisky from Greenland (we would’ve loved that), we’re off to Denmark instead… |
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Thy ‘Bog’ (50%, OB, Denmark, 2024)
Beechwood-smoked barley and a spirit matured in oloroso and PX. And it’s organic. We’ve already tasted some superb expressions from Thy. Colour: gold. Nose: I don’t believe I’ve ever nosed a whisky so deeply rooted in smoked butter. All the rage in Michelin-starred kitchens these days. Then a medley of root vegetables—those long-forgotten sorts that are now all the rage again too, thanks to those very same chefs. In short, it’s distinctive. With water: a burst of lime tidies the whole thing up nicely. Mouth (neat): this is very different, which means it’s good. That’s where I’ve landed—so many malts are mind-numbingly samey these days (largely due to everyone using the same bl**dy casks). Liquorice, rubber, hawthorn and linden tea (and a lot of it) … With water: smoked pear, of all things! Finish: long, a touch more austere, with more ashes and a final whiff of dill-cured smoked salmon. Fitting really—smoking salmon with beech is quite the standard, isn’t it? Comments: brilliant. I even forgot to mention the oregano that turns up in the finish of the finish of the finish.
SGP:464 - 88 points. |
Since we’re up north… One last one. |
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Smögen 8 yo 2016/2024 (57.1%, Decadent Drams, Sweden, 172 bottles)
Smögen is a session killer—unless you’ve got more Smögen waiting at the tasting table, it’s best left for last, as a rule. Also, we rather love these new retro-naive labels by Decadent Drams, looking as though they were made on a Commodore or an Atari. A welcome change from today’s ubiquitous AI-BS. Colour: amber. Nose: holy Suzy! And no one told me? Normally, we like Smögen when it’s taut, fresh, vertical, saline—but here we’re swimming in richness, motor oil from a Bentley (well, an old Saab), Brussels sprout liqueur (not a thing, thankfully perhaps), basalt sands, game, smoked fish… Bloody hell, this nose is extraordinary. With water: carbon paper, maintenance oils, fresh diving suit, cooked artichokes, and fermented fish (in the good sense). Mouth (neat): rather warm, yet austere, packed with tobacco ash and salt. Almost confrontational at this point, the scoundrel fights back. With water: ashes, peppers, and a dab of concentrated molasses. Finish: very long, salty and peppery, with more tar and drops of spicy pizza oil and brine in the aftertaste. Comments: these people are a menace, truly. One’s tempted to ask for a Smögen ban, much like a casino ban. Blame shared between the distiller and the bottler here.
SGP:475 - 92 points. |
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April 16, 2025 |
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Top-notch only: a selection of independent Glen Moray from five countries
Each time we enjoy Glen Moray (or Ardbeg for that matter), we spare a thought for Stuart Thomson. |
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Glen Moray 11 yo 2013/2024 (51.4%, Dramcatcher, for Whisky & Music Festival Zürich 2024, 1st fill oloroso, cask #2312209, 95 bottles)
For a delightful little festival in Zürich that brings together whisky and music, organised by our friend Andreas. Warmly recommended, and you might even take the opportunity to pay a visit to your bankers. Colour: full gold. Nose: incredible, quite a bit of chocolate – Swiss, naturally – then notes of suntan lotion and a good deal of barley, both fresh and malted. With water: patchouli and roasted hazelnuts, then bruised apples and a splash of walnut wine. Expected, perhaps, but very nicely done. Mouth (neat): very pretty fruity sherry, with plenty of walnuts, mandarin orange, caramel, tobacco... With water: stewed fruits in abundance, including plums and apples, sprinkled with fragments of roasted hazelnut. Finish: rather long, lovely, very slightly saline. Comments: fine work with this very young Glen Moray. The next Whisky & Music Festival Zürich will take place on the 28th and 29th of November this year. Hoppla!
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Glen Moray 14 yo 2010/2024 (56%, Navigate World Whisky, Partners series, ex-bourbon, cask #800541, 182 bottles)
One moves without blinking from Switzerland to South Africa. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: this is very different indeed, with notes of rubber, aubergine, artichoke, even a touch of Brussels sprout. Unusual, certainly, but nothing over the top, and in fact it works. A bit of kale and lemon too. Tremendous fun. With water: almond milk, imagine that. Mouth (neat): powerful, very lemony, big on cider apple, gooseberry, grass juice, verjuice… With water: stewed apple with a drizzle of honey and a squeeze of lemon juice. Even the vanilla keeps a respectable distance. Finish: long, fresh, softer, but the verjuice character still lingers. Comments: in truth, this is quite the gastronomic Glen Moray. Let’s say… perhaps with poultry?
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
From Switzerland to South Africa to Taiwan… Who’d have imagined Glen Moray would take us so far afield? |
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Glen Moray 15 yo 2008/2024 (52%, Whisky Age, 1st fill palo cortado hogshead, cask #5651, 309 bottles)
Palo cortado, that’s just splendid) Colour: gold. Nose: green walnuts, seaweed, sweet mustard, polenta, then white grapes, furniture polish and cherry stalk infusion. What’s so lovely with malts that don’t shout too loudly is that you’re able to uncover all these subtle little nuances that something like an Ardbeg or a young Springbank would probably bulldoze right over. With water: oh, salted butter with seaweed and roasted almonds… oh… Mouth (neat): I adore this. The palo cortado was spot on. Exceptional salinity, mustard again, more walnuts, tobacco, chen-pi (hi Gene), teas, sharp apples… It’s splendid. With water: superb bitter-acid development, beautifully poised. We may be in Taiwan (and Elgin), but we’re also deep in the heart of Jerez. Finish: alas. Comments: I admit it, this beastie rather took us by surprise.
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
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Glen Moray 17 yo 2007/2024 (51.4%, Club Qing, Bottled Realities, ex-Laphroaig barrel, cask #6311, 255 bottles)
In theory, Glen Moray and Laphroaig are like chalk and cheese. Had it been Ardbeg, at least there might have been some kind of managerial continuity, in a way. Colour: white wine. Nose: nursery school glue, brass and silver polish, clams and whelks, the latest issue of the New Yorker, a fireplace just gone out, and hefty whiffs of fresh plastic. I must say this is fairly disconcerting, though one suspects there’s some sort of trick here, let’s see. With water: no, still very much all sorts of polishes. Drawing gum, linseed oil… Mouth (neat): who remembers ‘Serendipity’? Well, this is much better, but still obscure, disconcerting, bizarre… Preserved lemon juice in a copper pot, or something along those lines. With water: it edges a bit towards a caipirinha. Probably the most convoluted way to make a caipirinha. Finish: same story at first, but the Speysider strikes back with some cider apple and barley syrup. Salt on the aftertaste. Comments: bizarre and, in fact, bizarrely excellent. But was it deliberate or sheer happenstance?
SGP:463 - 88 points. |
Let’s wrap up our wee adventure in Italy, if you’re happy with that. |
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Glen Moray 18 yo 2006/2024 (54.8%, Wilson & Morgan, oloroso sherry finish, cask #720007, 540 bottles)
We do appreciate that W&M have never changed their labels, it’s a mark of trust towards the consumer and proof of a top-tier value system (yes, really)) Colour: amber. Nose: another lovely example of an ex-sherry malt that leans bourbon at first, with fresh varnish, popcorn, custard, and marrons glacés, then increasingly mocha-infused chocolate. Hazelnut liqueur and nocino aren’t far behind… Bravissimo. With water: a few puffs of dried seaweed on the beach, and notes of church candle wax. After all, we are in Italy. Mouth (neat): old-school, perfect. Powerful, bold, slightly acetic, also showing fine notes of controlled burn, coffee, walnuts, a drop of Jerez vinegar (naturally), and black pepper… With water: it relaxes a little, but those walnuts, mustard, bitter chocolate, nocino, and even, cue the trumpets, a touch of amaro remain. Finish: long, drier still, more chocolaty, and with a hint of green pepper. Comments: probably the most Italian Glen Moray I’ve tasted in recent years. And yet it was sherry, not marsala.
SGP:462 - 89 points. |
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April 15, 2025 |
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A Full Case of Benrinnes – Part 6/6
It was high time to put an end to this Benrinnes binge — we’ve been tasting them seven at a time. Great Scott, 6 × 7 = 42! |
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Benrinnes 12 yo 2011/2024 (46%, StrongholdUA, Ukraine, oloroso sherry octave finish, cask #11639/050, 312 bottles)
I read on social media that whisky and politics should be kept separate, that they don’t mix well. Utter nonsense, whisky has always been political, in Ireland, in Scotland, and in the US too. Whisky is political by nature. Otherwise, it would just be cheap beer, distilled in crumbling factories and aged in second-hand casks. Slava Ukraini. Colour: full shiny Ukrainian gold. Nose: plenty of roasted walnuts and hazelnuts, earth, fresh concrete, soot—you’d think this was a Ben Nevis. With water: lovely, on apple peels, even potato skins, ashes, cement… Mouth (neat): wonderfully austere, smoky, peppery, herbal, bitter… I like this a lot, it really makes you work. With water: fruitier, a touch easier, but leather steps in to keep that slightly… military profile in check. Finish: long and peppery, on tart and bitter apples. The peppered walnuts go all-out in the aftertaste. Comments: this isn’t an easy Benrinnes, but full respect to our Ukrainian friends.
SGP:462 - 85 points. |
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Benrinnes 2007/2024 (52.3%, Dutch Whisky Connection, 5th Anniversary, 210 bottles)
Selected by Michiel Wigman, naturally. Love the quasi-Soviet, almost Schwitters-like label design by Master Hans Dillesse. Colour: deep gold. Nose: walnuts and yeasts, loads of beer of all kinds, then a wheelbarrow’s worth of roasted nuts—pecans, pistachios, malted barley… With water: oh yes—red ale, vin jaune, parsley and marrow. A deeply savoury note of beef and chicken stock, missing only a touch of truffle. Mouth (neat): wait now, we’re on the west coast, somewhere between Ben Nevis and Springbank. Salty, raw, very yeasty, smoky and extremely malty… This is truly a brutal Benrinnes, far from mirabelles and dainty apples. With water: still very dry, restless, salty, on leather and tobacco. Finish: not much change, perhaps more pepper and bitter walnuts. Comments: what was this? A challenge? A dare? A provocation? Whatever it was, we love this embodiment of anti-commercialism. Let me remind you: whisky is political.
SGP:462 - 85 points. |
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Benrinnes 10 yo 2011/2022 (58.1%, LMDW, Artist #12, 1st fill sherry butt finish, cask #307205, 660 bottles)
Still those 3XXXXX cask numbers of mysterious origin—and those stunning labels. Colour: office coffee. Nose: office coffee indeed, chicory, sorrel and spinach soup, dark chocolate, roasted walnuts, malt extract, artichokes… With water: black teas and chocolates, fully unleashed. The faintest touch of gunpowder, barely noticeable. Mouth (neat): extremely rich and thick, caramelised, like a proper concentrate of orange liqueur veering into those slightly mad Belgian beers—think Westvleteren 12 or Orval. Admittedly, we’re still clueless in that field, despite the numerous efforts of our Belgian friends (aka the Alsatians of the North). With water: smoked hazelnuts, honey sauce and quite a bit of leather. Leather isn’t always good news. Finish: long, with a layer of burnt rubber over the rest. Comments: forgot to mention the black pepper.
SGP:462 - 84 points. |
Let’s be honest — these sherry finishes with leathery notes aren’t always the easiest… |
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Benrinnes 12 yo 2009/2022 (54%, Chapter 7, bourbon hogshead, oloroso finish, cask #301395, 324 bottles)
This must be in the same vein. Colour: deep gold. Nose: cabbage soup, chocolate, gunpowder, brand-new leather jacket, malt, ham. With water: yes, ham fat and fresh concrete. Mouth (neat): much better on the palate, though still a bit forceful—bitter almonds, bitter oranges, pepper and very dark chocolate. With water: it’s alright, quite pleasant, though still a tad tiring. Finish: long, peppery, bitter. Leek soup. Comments: these sherry finishes do end up being rather tricky in the long run, just a touch lacking in precision but still very enjoyable.
SGP:561 - 82 points. |
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Benrinnes 9 yo 2014/2023 (55%, James Eadie, first fill Malaga finish, cask #367728)
The finishing lasted 16 months. That’s roughly how long it takes a far-left French MP to solve a Year 7 maths problem. Kindly meant, of course—without them, France wouldn’t quite be France. Colour: gold. Nose: chocolate, pepper, ham and sorrel. With water: more ham, leeks, cabbage. Mouth (neat): much better and fruitier on the palate. Violet jelly, marmalade, various honeys, pink peppercorns (a lot of it, really a lot). With water: a tidal wave of sultanas, figs, PX, candied bananas, meadow honeys… Phew, saved by the bell. Finish: fairly long, more balanced thanks to apples and oranges. Comments: very good, just ever so slightly… ordinary.
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
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Benrinnes 12 yo 2010/2023 (57.6%, Signatory Vintage for LMDW, New Vibrations, first fill oloroso sherry butt finish, cask #112, 683 bottles)
Let’s be honest—these young sherry finishes are about as thrilling as the launch of a new Tesla or the next iPhone. That said, this is Signatory, so there’s hope… Colour: amber. Nose: marmalade, honey, pancake syrup, fudge and Iberian ham. Iberian ham isn’t necessarily good news, so let’s see what happens with water… With water: roasted peanuts, slightly burnt, bay leaf and leather. Mouth (neat): no, this is very good—the level goes right back up. There are honeys and exotic fruit jams, along with spice blends we adore—satay, masala, Balinese basa gede… With water: honey and figs, everything is splendid, Madame la Marquise (French saying). Finish: medium length but very honeyed, much softer now. Almost a miracle. Black and pink peppercorns return in the background. Comments: we’ve been saved—well done!
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
And now, the last of the last. Agreed — we probably should have saved the 1971 Cadenhead for this point, rather than yet another young sherry-finished Benrinnes. Such is life… Right then, let’s go with a BB hoggie to finish — sound good? |
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Benrinnes 10 yo 2013/2023 (57.5%, Dràm Mor, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #300745, 278 bottles)
Always these #3XX,XXX casks—perhaps a curse? A secret sign? A hegemonic broker at work? Colour: gold. Nose: we’re treated to lovely notes of natural rubber, macaroons, marzipan, and orgeat syrup… With water: barley, chalk, mud, cement… Mouth (neat): very nice, with bitter orange, small bitter pears, school glue, and more marzipan. With water: lovely malt, orgeat syrup, though it does dip a little. Finish: medium length, on almonds and ripe apples. Comments: it’s good.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
Right, that’s enough — we’re calling it. Benrinnes is still a very good malt, but its true character remains to be discovered. Sherry finishes are generally good, but they can get a bit tiring over time, to be honest. Just my opinion! Then again, maybe we just shouldn’t have tasted quite so many… |
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Best spirits Serge tried those weeks, 90+ points only
Glen Moray 15 yo 2008/2024 (52%, Whisky Age, 1st fill palo cortado hogshead, cask #5651, 309 bottles)
Smögen 8 yo 2016/2024 (57.1%, Decadent Drams, Sweden, 172 bottles)
Clarendoni 25 yo 1997/2023 (60%, Rum Sponge Special Edition, blend, Trinidad & Jamaica, 95 bottles)
New Yarmouth 2009/2024 (61.2%, Swell de Spirits, Eastern Tales, Constantia Bordeaux, Jamaica, bourbon, 200 bottles)
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