Whiskyfun October 2025 - part 2 - Port Ellen, Lagavulin...

October 2025 - part 1 <--- October 2025 - part 2 ---> Current entries


October 19, 2025

Cognac is back with some knack
(Wonders from 1994 to 1939)

Aren't our headlines always absolutely brilliant — I honestly don’t know how we’ve not won an international award for them yet. Right then, let’s kick off with one of our now-traditional aperitifs…

Otard *** Spécial (40%, OB, +/-1960)

Straight from the Château de Cognac where, according to what the label tells us, King François 1er was born in 1494. Colour: deep gold. Nose: classic indeed, with a rather pronounced and wholly positive OBE, and I rather doubt this nose was quite so lovely at birth, given that it’s merely a modest ***. A delightful combination of sultanas, peach syrup, linden honey and orange blossom, with not the faintest fault to report. One wonders whether some older Cognacs found their way into the vatting, perhaps due to a ‘cognac lake/lac’, the French equivalent of the ‘whisky loch’ in Scotland. But let’s not get carried away with conjecture... Mouth: ah but this really is very good, fairly rich yet ever fresh, jammy but without excess, with plenty of figs and peaches at first, then moving towards honey and thyme infusion. A trace of salted liquorice, quite an original twist in this context. Finish: fairly long and still rather lovely, with a discreet toastiness of the most respectable kind. Comments: doubtless some very fine crus nestled in this little Otard from some 65 years ago. One to keep an eye on at auction, I should think...
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Now let’s shine a spotlight on three star-producers, vertically, from 1994 down to 1939… In no particular order: Grosperrin, J-L Pasquet, Vallein Tercinier.

Vallein Tercinier 'Lot 94' (48.1%, Through the Grapevine, LMDW, Fins Bois, 90 bottles, 2025)

A Fins Bois own-estate from Vallein Tercinier... Colour: full gold. Nose: one of those bottles with but a single flaw, that being how utterly predictable they are when it comes to quality. Here we have damp earth and forest floor à la old white Burgundy, followed by aged wood in the cedar or even sandalwood register, then a neat array of dried fruits and preserved ones, all wrapped in mentholated touches and wisps of incense. Simply irresistible, by thunder! Mouth: firmer than expected, starting out on mint leaves and a little fir resin, then camphor and even a hint of Tiger Balm, quite the surprise, before bringing in liquorice wood, gentian, and eventually some restrained dried fruits. This firmer side makes it rather splendidly ‘malternative’, if I may say so. Finish: long, turning towards a combination of walnut and crème de menthe. Comments: more robust and less fruity than the older Cognacs from the house, but perhaps all the more quintessentially ‘Fins Bois’. The fact is, we adore this as well.
SGP:561 - 89 points.

Jean-Luc Pasquet 'Lot 86' (45.3%, OB, Kirsch Import Awakening Series, Grande Champagne, 2025)

A new bottling unveiled at Whisky Live Hamburg just last weekend. Colour: gold. Nose: at first nosing, it’s far fruitier than the 1994, though no less structured, especially once a rather earthy liquorice note begins to make itself known, with, believe it or not, wee touches of pale ale and even a faint smokiness. I swear it. As for the fruits, we find the usual peaches and melons, then a little orange, but all in rather discreet fashion. Mouth: I promise you there’s a bit of brown ale, along with currants, dried figs and dates, a faint charcoal note, then quite a bit of green tea, lending it a slightly dry and rustic edge. Finish: fairly long, even drier, on tea and tobacco. Citrus notes linger in the aftertaste. Comments: lovely bitter tones in this utterly charming Cognac that feels ever so slightly pastoral.
SGP:461 - 89 points.

Vallein Tercinier 'Lot 78' (48.4%, OB, Kirsch Import Awakening Series, Grande Champagne, 2025)

Colour: deep gold. Nose: it’s almost pure orange blossom honey to begin with, then come a few soft spices—cinnamon, liquorice, star anise—followed by ripe rather than dried fruits, with mellow apples, nectarines, and even hints of rose-infused banana compote. Well, I’m not entirely sure such a thing exists, but I find this nose rather dazzling. Mouth: a slight touch of old Calvados at first (those mellow apples again) and some tobacco notes, then a little flurry of herbs—aniseed, mint, even lovage—before the citrus elements come marching in. A light touch of green tea as well. Finish: long, mostly on honey and citrus, with additional notes of liquorice and mint. Comments: what would you have me say...
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Grosperrin 'N°67' (40.6%, OB, Héritage, Petite Champagne, 2025)

1967—Hendrix, the Yardbirds, the Doors, Cream, Engelbert Humperdinck... Well, perhaps not Engelbert Humperdinck. Colour: deep gold. Nose: Maître Guilhem at what seems to be his finest. Granted, he didn’t distil this one himself, but he selected it—and in this context, that’s nearly the same thing. A devilishly fruity affair, with all manner of herbal infusions, and above all, a clarity and expressiveness one wouldn’t quite expect at just over 40% vol. That said, it does seem Cognac handles lower strengths far better than malt whisky. Figs and honeys in an infernal tango. Mouth: not a hint of tiredness, rather a medley of various oranges, prickly pear and pomegranate. Admittedly, there’s the faintest nose-diving after a good fifteen seconds on the palate, but a gorgeous Assam-style tea steps in without missing a beat. Finish: not eternal, of course, but possessed of rare elegance. The honeys are sublime. Comments: kindly disregard all that business about Engelbert Humperdinck. Think Menuhin instead.
SGP:651 - 91 points.

Jean-Luc Pasquet 'Lot 63' (45.6%, Through the Grapevine, LMDW, Grande Champagne, 90 bottles, 2025)

Colour: full gold. Nose: drier and more on the woody side, though in a register reminiscent of a well-stocked humidor and sandalwood, then we drift into fruit skins—apricots, pears, peaches—plus touches of vanilla, honeysuckle, acacia blossom, linden, sweet woodruff, and even the faintest hint of lily of the valley. All this with great finesse, even a touch of discretion, which is absolutely not a flaw, quite the opposite, especially in today’s world (not the most helpful comment, S.) Mouth: a rather unexpected liveliness, almost lemony, with passion fruit and then pear sorbet, all wrapped up in soft liquorice and a trace of wild carrot. Truth be told, it’s pristine and quite stunning. The lemon–liquorice duo works far better than one might have imagined. Finish: it doesn’t budge an inch and remains on those deliciously fresh and taut notes for a good fifteen caudalies. At the very least. Comments: just as the nose was discreet and well-mannered, the palate is fresh, energetic, and just a little bit cheeky. We love it.
SGP:651 - 91 points.

To wrap things up, I’ve got an intriguing duo for you: a 1939 and a 1945. We could’ve saved them to mark some WWII anniversary or other, but hey, this is Whiskyfun, capeesh?

Grosperrin 'N°45' (52.2%, OB, Héritage, Fins Bois, 166 litres, 2025)

The vintage of victory and peace, of course, even if officially this isn’t a vintage Cognac. The bottling strength is particularly high for something this old, so one would imagine it was transferred into demijohns fairly early. Or perhaps it was aged entirely in a dry cellar. Colour: copper amber. Nose: far richer than most of its predecessors, more honeyed, with more raisins, dates, dried pears, and even a faint touch of molasses. What one might call a proper ‘old-school’ Cognac, with perhaps a bit of ‘seasoning’ during cask preparation, eighty or seventy-nine years ago. Or not. With water: some mint and herbal teas make an appearance, along with a peach skin touch. Mouth (neat): oh! Almost simple, which, again, is by no means a flaw here—quite the opposite—with notes of honey, triple sec, maple syrup and a little instant coffee. Old-school indeed. With water: it opens like an oyster once water is added, branching out into marmalade citrus, even more honey and maple syrup. A bit of peanut butter as well, would you believe. Finish: long, more classic, more graceful too, and in any case, the freshness in this V-Cognac is absolutely remarkable. Light tobacco and wood in the aftertaste. Comments: when compared with what’s happening in malt these days, even including the very old ones, it’s hard to see how this could be rated at anything less than...
SGP:561 - 92 points.

Let’s leap over the Second World War to bring this decidedly superlative little session to a close…

Grosperrin 'N°39' (45.5%, OB, Héritage, Grande Champagne, 118 litres, 2025)

One always learns something interesting from Grosperrin’s labels. In this case, that a donkey entered the cellar during the removal of the cask from the estate at Salles-d’Angles. Though one suspects it may have rather been the Wehrmacht that did something similar when this lot may have been first filled, in spring of 1940. You should remember that in Cognac, the vintage refers to the year of the harvest, while distillation must be done before March 31 the year after. But not sure these rules did apply back in 1940. Colour: golden amber. Nose: dazzling freshness, precision and fruitiness, with a surprisingly mineral edge—wet chalk, slate—alongside honey, peaches, and, would you believe, traces of old malt whisky. Also a little salted butter caramel, as in a very old Sauternes that’s finally digested its sugars. Once again, there’s even a bit of peanut butter this time again, though we’re well aware that’s a rather vulgar descriptor. Still, we truly adore proper, unadulterated peanut butter. Mouth: let us dispense with the wood notes straightaway, here personified by a touch of English tea, and focus on this extraordinary pear and banana ganache profile. Also some mango, fir honey, and still that salted butter caramel. Finish: at this point it gets just a touch tea-ish and perhaps doesn’t quite hold its ground against the 1945, which we find a notch above, but it remains an utter delight. Surprising apple notes in the aftertaste. Comments: still very much up there, of course, just slightly less elevated than the splendid 1945. I mean, the N°45.
SGP:561 - 90 points.

Well, what a session, truly, what a session! You’ll say that with a line-up of JG, JLP, and VT, things were bound to be on the right track anyway. Sharp observation — bravo!

(Thank you, Morten)

Check the index of all cognacs we've tasted


October 18, 2025

Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland

A Brace of Bladnoch

I don't taste Bladnoch too often, and I have to admit I am not really at all familiar with the output of the (relatively) new owners. That being said, I am a fan and I love the older ones. We'll have one of each today and see how we go...

Bladnoch 23 yo 2001/2024 (49.2%, OB for Hedonism Wines, Amontillado sherry cask, 317 bottles)Bladnoch 23 yo 2001/2024 (49.2%, OB for Hedonism Wines, Amontillado sherry cask, 317 bottles)

Bladnoch 23 yo 2001/2024 (49.2%, OB for Hedonism Wines, Amontillado sherry cask, 317 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: a nicely autumnal sense of soft dark fruits, plums, old armagnac and touches of caramelised brown sugar, rolling tobacco and suggestions of earthy potting sheds. An upfront impression of sweetness that doesn't suggest Amontillado to me, but then these elegant earthier and drier aspects begin to slowly take control - which is very charming. Mouth: a tad spicier and more vinous than expected on arrival, with rather a lot of cupboard and mulling spice qualities, all spice, clove etc. Then some bitter herbal notes alongside these sweeter qualities that suggest Buckfast and Jägermeister (what a combo that would be: BuckBomb anyone?). Goes on with some big notes of Cointreau, rancio, plum wine and sweetish orange marmalade notes. The spiciness hovers on the precipice of slightly too much, but never altogether goes there. Finish: quite long, warming, the spice recedes to an easy peppery warmth, bitter orange marmalade now and some vielle prune. Comments: a little out of step with itself at times, and featuring some rather funny sweet and spicy qualities that feel like they've come from the wood, but in the end it lands firmly in the 'charismatic and good' category.
SGP: 551 - 87 points.

Bladnoch 33 yo 1988/2022 (54.1%, Gordon & MacPhail 'Connoisseur's Choice' for Kensington Wine Market, cask #2107, refill sherry hogshead, 53 bottles)
Next time I go to Canada, KWM is top of my hit list in terms of places to visit... Colour: white wine. Nose: wonderful, and very different from the more common 1990s, this is much more about waxes, citrons, sandalwood, mineral notes, cooking oils, hessian cloth and dried herbal notes. Extremely old school and almost displaying notes you might associate with positive old bottle effect, with these slightly dusty and old dried herbal notes. With water: tiger balm, shoe leather, face cream, papaya - some beautiful old dry Riesling vibes too. Mouth: amazing fruit profile upon arrival, so different, showing lots of lychees, rosewater, kiwi, star fruit, dried mango and passion fruit. Stunning and complex fruit profile that really is a departure from the norm. Also greener notes of gooseberry and cider apple that supply ample freshness and even an impression of acidity. Beyond that also these superb waxes and crystalised honey notes. With water: further impressions of old bottle vibes, mature dry white wines, camphor, putty, linseed oil, dried flowers full of pollen and a hint of dried lavender and more sandalwood. Finish: medium, sappy, peppery, waxy and back on green and yellow fruit notes. Comments: was there really only 53 bottles in this cask, maybe that explains this highly concentrated and complex profile: a lot of air! I love how this feels ever so Bladnoch, while also being distinct from most of the other casks from these late 80s / early 90s vintages I could try. Great selection!
SGP: 551 - 91 points.

Check the index of all Bladnoch we've tasted


October 17, 2025

WF's Little Duos, today Glen Ord

There's this new official Special Release, and there is one by Signatory. In other words, a proper fight...

The-Singleton-of-Glen-Ord-17-yo-Into-the-Blue-55.5-OB-Special-Releases-2025-second-fill-ex-sherry-and-mezcal-finish

The Singleton of Glen Ord 17 yo 'Into the Blue' (55.5%, OB, Special Releases 2025, second fill ex-sherry and mezcal finish)
Into the blue? In any case, agave spirits do seem to be making their mark on Diageo's malts, and one can’t say it’s a daft idea given our fondness for top-notch mezcals and great tequilas. Colour: pale gold. Nose: fairly oily at first nosing, with earthy touches and pipe ash, then increasingly briny olive oil and gherkins in brine. This is all very mezcal indeed, though perhaps not quite what one would expect from an Ord. Let’s dig a little deeper, if you don’t mind... With water: more notes of damp paper and wet cardboard, still plenty of olives, some green tapenade (anchovies, garlic and olives), and even a dab of aioli. The malt itself doesn’t have a huge amount to say, but we do enjoy the overall effect. Mouth (neat): a UFO of sorts, the mezcal is front and centre—salty, peppery, briny, packed with olives—then a honey and vanilla combo that feels almost out of place in this context. All this is rather ‘trans’, as they say. With water: the malt resurfaces, with hints of beer and chocolate, but the mezcal still runs the show, cartel-style. Ha. Finish: medium in length, earthier still, with a touch of coconut in the aftertaste. Comments: a wee Glen O(rd)axaca in fine fettle, even if the whole remains a little... odd.
SGP:352 - 82 points.

Glen Ord 12 yo 2012/2025 '100 proof Edition #43' (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 1st fill bourbon barrel)

Let’s be honest, these fights aren’t much fun when the outcome is this predictable... Colour: pale gold. Nose: grape seed oil and peanut oil at first, then citrus peels, paraffin, fresh barley, sourdough starter, and wee apples from an old orchard. Oh bother! With water: hints of soaked ashes and crushed slate, plus some fresh apple juice. Still awfully painful, I mean, I mean the opposite, right. Mouth (neat): pure lemon and wax. A flawless profile, crystal-clear lines, total freshness—it’s practically a single malt in a bikini. Quite excruciating indeed. With water: I hardly dare say it, but Ord is a truly great malt, and this is an expression of remarkable fidelity and admirable purity. It’s honestly a bit much. Finish: painfully long, precise, chiselled and... painful. Comments: since we’re among ourselves, we can admit that one rather expects this kind of ultra-distillate-forward profile from the... distillers. Signatory really ought to be awarded the Légion d'Honneur (a fairly pointless French bauble).
SGP:461 - 88 points.

Check the index of all Glen Ord we've tasted


October 16, 2025

A solo tasting, Roseisle!

We never do this – but this time, we’re just not feeling creative enough to pit another malt against Roseisle. Unless… well, you never know...

Roseisle 14 yo 'Harmonic Grace' (55.9%, OB Special Releases 2025, refill and rejuvenated casks)

Remember that? Everyone was talking about Roseisle when the distillery first fired up the stills, and then... radio silence. We visited back then; it was a lovely experience. Playful label, very ‘AI’. The name ‘Harmonic Grace’ sounds like a Buddhist mantra, by Imee Ooi perhaps? Colour: pale gold. Nose: it’s light, soft, malty, on apples and pears, with no edges and nothing out of place. One thinks of Glenfiddich 12 straight away. With water: a few notes of roasted peanuts and white nougat. Mouth (neat): of course it’s good, it’s ultra-classic, all on malt with touches of coffee, limoncello, and pilsner beer. Very light, very ‘natural’, despite a few hints of that absolute abomination some call Dubai-style chocolate. With water: no major change, save for a faint bitterness. Finish: rather short but pleasing, more on lemons and beer. Comments: this is certainly very good, it’s just a tiny wee tad dull(ish).
SGP:551 - 84 points.

Wait, we've finally got an idea for a sparring partner. What would you say to this…?

Aldunie (Kinninvie) 26 yo 1997/2023 (52.6%, The Whisky Blues, barrel, cask #2032, 155 bottles)

These labels remain as stunning as ever, but William Grant's Kinninvie has never exactly been the stuff of malted dreams... Truth be told, it probably wasn’t designed to catapult malt enthusiasts straight to Mars. Colour: pale gold. Nose: but how very close this is to Roseisle! Pre-AI whisky, one might say, very good, but slightly devoid of emotion. That said, there are plenty of charming wee touches, green tea, putty, lime, quince, fresh rubber... though all of it speaks in a whisper. With water: much the same, though a tad more characterful and earthy than the Roseisle. Mouth (neat): right, this is really very good now, with a lovely lemon and some green apple, along with a hint of liquorice wood. No complaints here. With water: folds in a little, moving towards beer, cider, and liquorice. Finish: rather long, a touch fuller and fresher than the Roseisle’s. Comments: neither Ardbeg nor Brora, but it takes all sorts to build a malty world, does it not. Seriously, this is a very, very good malt, nothing to fault.
SGP:5514 - 85 points.


October 15, 2025

A cracking stash of M&H

Recent events in the Middle East have given us reason to celebrate — and let’s be honest, such occasions have been rather scarce in recent years. So, we’ll be tasting a few M&H whiskies from Milk & Honey. In fact, quite a few, in true Whiskyfun style. Let’s take a look at what we’ve got in the library...

(Picture M&H)

M&H 2019/2022 'Ex-Rye Casks' (56.7%, OB, APEX, Israel, 2,111 bottles)

We know this kind of light in-cask blending of malt and rye can work rather well. Colour: gold. Nose: it's very dry, led by oak and fresh bread, with the faintest hints of fresh putty in the background. With water: the fruitiness steps forward with dilution, bringing wee pears and a touch of lemon peel, while the rye becomes more vocal too. Bags of green tea. Mouth (neat): very powerful, mostly on oak spices, peppers of all hues and small green fruits, gooseberries, lime, cactus flesh... With water: this is when it's at its most pleasant, fresh, still taut and rather dry, but very clean. Green tea in full bloom and a dab of honey. Finish: quite long and a continuation of the palate. A wee touch of violet in the aftertaste. Comments: very clean and compact, the rye works nicely. In short, we like it.
SGP:451 - 82 points.

M&H 2019/2023 'Madeira Wine Casks' (52.3%, OB, Art & Craft, Israel, 2,466 bottles)

This was a dessert-style Madeira wine, not a dry one. Colour: gold. Nose: much more presence than the rye, with a toasted side reminiscent of botrytis, raisins, hints of bresaola, a touch of camphor and an even lighter menthol... With water: and even faint smoky touches after dilution. Mouth (neat): the Madeira sings loudly but it works, very grapey, very expressive, still with those toasted notes but also a good dose of blood orange. Lovely stuff. With water: no major changes but it was already in fine shape. Finish: the blood orange returns alongside sultanas, with some pepper and black tea. A bitterness appears here, but it's well reined in. Comments: cheerful whisky, rather the opposite of the much more austere ex-rye.
SGP:651 - 84 points.

M&H 2018/2022 'Pomegranate Wine Casks' (57.4%, OB, APEX, Israel, 3,049 bottles)

This one spent the beginning of its life in bourbon, and was finished for six months in some intriguing pomegranate wine casks. I don’t believe I’ve ever tasted anything quite like this... Colour: gold. Nose: well we’re closer to the rye than the Madeira, surprisingly back to something more austere. Oak, putty, leafy notes... With water: citrus peel emerges. Mouth (neat): here comes the fruit! It’s zesty, lemony, plenty of lime and pink pepper. I’m not quite sure I could identify pomegranate wine blind, I must admit... With water: still citrus-led, and that’s very much to our liking. Note to self: track down a bottle of pomegranate wine post-haste. Finish: oranges return, both sweet and bitter. Comments: lovely tension, a delightful surprise.
SGP:551 - 84 points.

M&H 2019/2023 'Tokaji Wine Casks' (52%, OB, Art & Craft, Israel, 1,550 bottles)

One thing’s for certain, Tokaji and peat clash terribly. But there you go, I think this whisky wasn’t peated... Colour: pale gold. Nose: the sweet wine is rather prominent, bringing us closer to Greek muscats, perhaps even orange wine and rose liqueur. Under these conditions, the malt does seem to struggle a bit to assert itself. With water: water changes everything, it becomes better balanced, more malty, more forthright. Mouth (neat): it’s spectacularly fruity and sweet, yet there’s a peppery acidity that keeps it all in check. In the end, it’s really not bad at all, though the Tokaji remains firmly in charge. With water: once again, water brings balance. White grape berries, not necessarily furmint, a lovely honeyed vanilla and even a wee touch of salt... Finish: medium length, soft, very pleasantly fruity. Comments: water is a must; there you have it.
SGP:651 - 83 points.

M&H 2019/2023 'White Port Casks' (53.6%, OB, Art & Craft, Israel, 2,210 bottles)

Colour: gold. Nose: a faint whiff of sulphur that's not bothersome in the least, and vanishes quickly anyway, then salted butter caramel and quince jelly. With water: psst, just between us, it’s rather like Glenmorangie’s ex-Sauternes, Nectar d'Or. In fact, I dare say it might be a wee bit better, or rather more to my liking. Mouth (neat): very good, much fresher and livelier than expected, on orange liqueur and crème brûlée, with grated candied orange zest. No quibbles. With water: water often settles the matter, and here it brings out all manner of oranges, which we adore. Finish: aged orangecello and mandarins. Comments: my favourite so far.
SGP:641 - 85 points.

M&H 'Hartman's Cigar Blend' (50%, OB, Israel, virgin oak, PX and bourbon, 2024)

Hopefully we’re still allowed to taste this special blend, even if it’s been a long time since we last puffed on a cigar. Colour: deep gold. Nose: bravo. Very malty, closer to barley than all the previous ones, creamier on the nose too, with citrus to be sure, but also herbal infusions, vanilla pod, croissants, brioche — all is well so far. With water: indeed, it’s the citrus, especially tangerines, that lead the dance. Mouth (neat): truly excellent, like a well-made citrus liqueur with very little sugar. We’re miles away from the 'cigar blends' of old, those often heavy-handed things laden with sherry, chocolate, leather and... tobacco. Not here, this is fresh as a daisy. With water: an infusion rich in orange blossom, Earl Grey, and so on... Finish: rather long, a touch more on the wood, but as ever, the citrus straightens everything out. Comments: one almost wants to dig out an old Cuban Dom Pérignon from the humidor to enjoy alongside this splendid little M&H. Well, we’ll think about it.
SGP:641 - 87 points.

I must admit, a slight shiver of apprehension is setting in now...

M&H 2019/2023 'Recioto Wine Casks' (55.1%, OB, Art & Craft, Israel, 2,210 bottles)

I think Recioto is something of a cousin to Amarone, so we’ll approach this one with a touch of caution. Red wine and whisky, you know how it is... Colour: apricot. Nose: strawberry cake, cherry cake, goji berries and panettone. Perhaps the panettone will come to the front once water is added... With water: black pepper. In theory, pepper and strawberry go together beautifully, but theory and practice often don’t see eye to eye. Mouth (neat): it’s well made, it’s just not my thing. Grenadine, pepper, kirsch-soaked cherries and rustic sourdough. With water: it creaks and squeaks on all fronts. A personal take, as always. Finish: strawberry bread, grape seeds and bitter spices — does strawberry bread even exist? Comments: as I was saying, it’s probably well crafted, but it’s not really my cup of malt.
SGP:461 - 75 points.

M&H 'Jerusalem Mountains' (55.4%, OB, APEX Terroir, Israel, 3,285 bottles, 2025)

For this series, terroir refers to where the whisky was matured — in this case at higher altitude, where the climate is gentler than elsewhere in Israel. The concept is somewhat akin to what the Japanese at Mars do with their various ageing cellars. In return, there’s no stated age or vintage here, at least as far as I can tell. Colour: pale gold. Nose: fairly soft vanilla and a few touches of fir bud liqueur, then a little honey, also fir-driven. All quite subtle, but to the point. With water: classic young malt, very well executed, in the style of certain young Scots or indeed Japanese. Mouth (neat): say no more, this is very good. Fresh, malty, lemony, beautifully herbal, with notes of verbena and a splash of Chartreuse. I rather feel M&H have upped their game with this very recent baby. With water: same impression. Tiny hints of anise and mint, exactly what was called for in this context. Finish: not very long but the addition of finger lime seals the deal. A very faint tarry note in the aftertaste. Comments: let’s remain polite — we won’t say we’re surprised, but... well yes, we are surprised.
SGP:561 - 88 points.

M&H 'Dead Sea' (57.4%, OB, APEX Terroir, Israel, 5,609 bottles, 2025)

Here we are at some -350m altitude, what’s going to happen? I haven’t checked this part, but I imagine the base distillate was the same throughout, and that the only variable was the maturation location. In short, a proper scientific approach... Colour: gold, so a slightly deeper hue. Nose: it’s a little less expressive, a little less fresh, perhaps a tad oilier. One gets sunflower oil, for instance, though I’ve no idea whether sunflowers grow in Israel, ha. The rest is close to the ‘JM’. With water: yes, slightly fattier... Mouth (neat): even closer to the Jerusalem, to be honest I’m not sure I could reliably detect the influence of the maturation site on the palate. Finding more salt, for instance, could simply be a trick of the mind (or what’s left of it, ha). Anyway, let’s move on — it’s very similar... With water: same again, very close, and thus very good. Finish: again very similar, but with some pink grapefruit notes emerging right at the end that weren’t quite as noticeable in the previous one. Comments: to do this sort of thing properly you’d need blind tastings and all sorts of controls. We’re a bit mad, but not that mad. At least, we hope not.
SGP:561 - 88 points.

Let’s pick up the pace. We had a feeling these 'Terroir' expressions would be good — but not this good...

M&H 'Sea of Galilee' (56.2%, OB, APEX Terroir, Israel, 3,001 bottles, 2025)

Colour: gold. Nose: less expressive than the previous two, probably closer to the more ‘core’ M&H expressions, which we haven’t sampled today. That said, there are some lovely hints of exotic fruits and a few raisins, plus tiny pinches of turmeric and ginger. Raisin and banana cake, would that do for you? With water: closer to the previous ones, perhaps a tad spicier. Mouth (neat): much more expressive on the palate, citrus comes back to take charge, there’s fresh resinous wood — in short, all is well. With water: orange buttercream steps in to keep order, green spices too. Finish: here we’re almost identical to the Dead Sea. Comments: superfluous.
SGP:561 - 87 points.

M&H 'Negev Desert' (54.2%, OB, APEX Terroir, Israel, 2,194 bottles, 2025)

A desert should, in theory, push up the strength, but that doesn’t seem to have been the case here. Colour: gold. Nose: a decidedly fruitier version, more on sweets, jelly babies — honestly, it almost smells like a young Balblair, just like the ones we tried yesterday. Seriously! With water: small citruses, great pleasures. indeed, that’s our new motto. Mouth (neat): fresh, lemony, very pretty, it feels a bit like we’ve landed in the Lowlands of Israel, if such a place existed. With water: well, blow me, they really didn’t miss the mark with this series. Finish: lemon tart, with meringue of course. Comments: a thousand bravos!!!
SGP:661 - 88 points.

A last one...

M&H 2020/2023 (67.2%, OB, for Whisky Picnic Bar, Israel, Private Cask Selection, Dead Sea ex-bourbon cask, cask #2020-2156, 148 bottles)

Colour: gold. Nose: nothing, nichts, nada, niente, and that’s the murderous strength. Perhaps a few extremely distant notes of very, very ripe oranges. With water: jelly babies, perhaps... There’s also a marked minerality, quite unusual. And hang on, a bit of pineapple? Mouth (neat): a flamethrower in your mouth, but again, the citrus seems to be trying to wrest back control. With water: now perfect, compact, fruity, irrepressible (yes?) and sublimely citrusy. Finish: young Rosebank? Comments: make no mistake, if folks like our friends in Taiwan are starting to select casks like this, it’s not without good reason. Honestly, we adore it. And blast it, barely three years old!
SGP:651 - 89 points.