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Copyright Serge Valentin
Angus MacRaild

 

 

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Hi, you're in the Archives, January 2025 - Part 2
 
 

January 2025 - part 1 <--- January 2025 - part 2 ---> February 2025 - part 1

 

January 31, 2025


Whiskyfun

We're setting off again on a journey around the world of whisky.
Let’s start from France as usual, then we’ll fly to Sweden, Canada, China again, Germany, England and Tasmania…

Daikin

Daikin Distillery, Fujian. Isn't she lovely? (Daikin)

 

 

Domaine de la Pèze 2021/2024 ‘Moyssou 2020’ (46%, OB, France, ex-cognac cask)

Domaine de la Pèze 2021/2024 ‘Moyssou 2020’ (46%, OB, France, ex-cognac cask) Three stars and a half
Here we are in Savignac in the Aveyron, where they use barley from the distillery’s own estate, malted at a regional malt house, then distilled on-site in a small Armagnac-style column still. The harvest took place in 2020, and, as is often the case, after its dormancy period, the barley was used the following year. Colour: white wine. Nose: fresh, with notes of bread, malt, pastries, a touch of earth, and a few seeds (fennel, poppy). There’s some pear and plum, but not excessively so. Mouth: very fruity at first, with that eau-de-vie-of-berries quality you find in many young malts from distilleries not using pot stills (over 95% of them, roughly). The texture isn’t heavy but features a delightful combination of mirabelle plums, apricots, and quince that works very well. The fresh seeded bread note is still lovely, along with lemon and anise. Finish: very slight tannicity, but overall gentle. Comments: typical of a young, carefully made craft malt without excessive cask influence.
SGP:641 - 84 points.

Mackmyra ‘Vision 1999’ (45.2%, OB, Sweden, 25th Anniversary Edition, new Swedish oak, bourbon, and PX, 2024)

Mackmyra ‘Vision 1999’ (45.2%, OB, Sweden, 25th Anniversary Edition, new Swedish oak, bourbon, and PX, 2024) Three stars and a half
You may know that the distillery filed for bankruptcy in 2024, though there’s reportedly a candidate for its acquisition (my information is a bit dated, I admit). It seems the distillery reopened at the end of 2024, but their website remains oddly quiet. Never mind the websites, though. That said, the ‘1999’ on the label doesn’t appear to be a vintage, which always feels a bit cheeky. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it works, though it’s very unusual. Think dark chocolate infused with lapsang souchong, clove, and allspice, along with plenty of damp potting soil and black pepper. Hints of lavender. Mouth: lots of pepper and bitter wine (retsina), then dark chocolate and quite a bit of soy sauce and balsamic. It becomes slightly sour and fuel-smoky after that (or at least that’s the impression). Finish: long and very oaky. There’s a strong oloroso-like character, followed by salted chocolate sauce and bitter orange. Comments: it certainly doesn’t do things halfway, that’s for sure. We appreciate the ‘no compromises’ approach, but this is yet another one that’s very hard to score.
SGP:563 - 83 points.

Macaloney’s ‘Kildara Batch 1’ (46%, OB, Canada, Signature Collection, 611 bottles, 2022)

Macaloney’s ‘Kildara Batch 1’ (46%, OB, Canada, Signature Collection, 611 bottles, 2022) Four stars
The cask bill here reminds us of the Mackmyra: bourbon, oloroso, Pedro Ximenez, and virgin oak. There’s no STR or mizunara, but still, one wonders, “is there whisky too?” (just joking). It seems this follows the Irish method: malted and unmalted barley, triple distilled in pot stills. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: not bad at all, very cask-driven, with raisins, patchouli, rosewood, butterscotch, a slight meaty touch (bacon), and an overall light profile. Mouth: I enjoy this violet-flavoured liquorice, alongside notes of ripe strawberries and mangos, layered over fruitcake and mendiant. It really has an Irish character—hope I’m not offending anyone. Finish: good length, spicier, mostly peppery. Comments: despite all the complexity from the casks, I find this very good, very easy-drinking, and dangerously quaffable. No wonder Donald J. might want to annex the country—even if he doesn’t drink (but NYC bartenders say he used to).
SGP:641 - 85 points.

Laizhou ‘Blender Inaugural Edition’ (43%, OB, China, single blend, 1,999 bottles, +/-2024)

Laizhou ‘Blender Inaugural Edition’ (43%, OB, China, single blend, 1,999 bottles, +/-2024) Three stars
We were quite impressed by the inaugural single malt from Laizhou (Szechuan) the other day, and now here’s the ‘self blend’ or ‘single blend,’ which seems to consist of 70% malt. I’m not entirely sure I’ve understood everything, but it seems that the grain whisky was also distilled in pot stills, like the malt, and not in columns. Colour: gold. Nose: I believe this is three years old, and for three years, hats off—it’s soft and fruity yet has complexity. Notes of white chocolate, roasted hazelnuts, ripe peach, and those subtle menthol touches we already found in the single malt, along with eucalyptus and a tiny puff of peony. Mouth: a bit more unusual, with prominent woodiness right from the start (a sawdust sensation), then pear, honey, and vanilla. Scottish blenders, when composing a young blend, often add a bit of older malt to smooth out the youthfulness, but when you’ve only been distilling for three years, that’s naturally impossible. Still, this is very well made. Finish: fairly short, with little evolution apart from some orange notes. Comments: the single malt was truly excellent (WF 85), and this charming blend will need a bit more time. Understandable. It’s also admirable that they didn’t try to source older malt and/or grain whisky from abroad, in the Japanese fashion.
SGP:531 - 80 points.

Daiking ‘Double Cask’ (51%, OB, China, bourbon and oloroso sherry, +/-2024)

Daiking ‘Double Cask’ (51%, OB, China, bourbon and oloroso sherry, +/-2024) Four stars
Here we are in Fujian, and we’ve already enjoyed several fine Daikings. Colour: deep gold. Nose: this starts with a lovely dusty note (yes, dust can be beautiful), evoking pollen, old books, and vintage beeswax polish, before moving into dried fruits, including longans, goji berries, and dried jujubes, followed by very ripe apples and sweet sherry. A truly delightful nose, with a distinctly ‘Chinese’ character that I really like—just a personal impression. With water: yeast, raisins, Ovaltine, and sherry. Mouth (neat): a very polished dram, with spices reminiscent of cinnamon rolls, a slight peppery touch, then marmalade, dark chocolate, and walnut tart. We’ll try not to mention pu-ehr tea too much, but yes, it’s there. With water: absolutely excellent, even with saline touches. Finish: long, a bit woodier (oak, cedar), but the dried fruits do their job. Also, candied sugar and orange marmalade. Comments: and to top it off, the distillery is stunning.
SGP:541 – 87 points.

Bimber ‘Chopin the Composer’ (52.0%, OB, England, Shoulders of Giants, for Poland, fino, cask #513/28, 328 bottles, 2023)

Bimber ‘Chopin the Composer’ (52.0%, OB, England, Shoulders of Giants, for Poland, fino, cask #513/28, 328 bottles, 2023) Four stars
Another release for Poland, naturally. At WF, we’re fino-ists—and manzanilla-ists too. Colour: gold. Nose: the fino influence is quite massive, with gunflint, gunpowder, bitter apple, and mustard, not to mention those famous fresh walnuts and a touch of mocha. With water: no real change, everything stays almost identical. Mouth (neat): lots of bitters, beer, mocha indeed, Seville oranges, chervil, tobacco, leather, chilli chocolate, and juniper berries… There’s a lot going on here—this is no little nocturne composed by Frédéric Chopin himself. With water: water smooths it out a bit, though cooked bell pepper also emerges. Finish: long, softer, with raisins finally making an appearance. Comments: more Frank Zappa than Frédéric Chopin, but we love them both.
SGP:461 - 87 points.

To stay somewhat in the realm of extremes...

St. Kilian 2017-2021/2024 ‘Signature Edition Fourteen’ (49.8%, OB, Germany, 4,260 bottles)

St. Kilian 2017-2021/2024 ‘Signature Edition Fourteen’ (49.8%, OB, Germany, 4,260 bottles) Four stars
Brace yourself, as this was matured in French casks: ex-Rhum Agricole (190 litres, 21%), ex-Armagnac (400 litres, 20%), ex-Cognac (300 litres, 14%), ex-Sauternes (225 litres, 11%), ex-red Margaux (225 litres, 12%), and ex-Champagne Vin Clair (350 litres, 22%). Long live Europe! Colour: light gold. Nose: nothing really stands out, but that’s perfectly fine, and the nose is anything but extreme. It’s beautifully malty, with notes of pastries, a touch of wine influence (though subtle), yeast, hints of young Alpine Gruyère, vineyard peaches (as found in summer Gruyères), and a bit of white nougat. Ultimately, it’s very delicate. Mouth: wonderfully fruity, with stewed and candied fruits, notably cherries and angelica, buttery pears, some raisins, praline, and always those peaches (probably from the Sauternes and Cognac duo). Finish: long, spicier, leaning more into wood spices now—cumin, nutmeg, and pepper. Comments: how could I not love this? Spitzentropfen, truly classy.
SGP:551 - 87 points.

By the way, the vin clair in Champagne is the first stage of production. Initially, a “normal” wine, the vin clair, is made, and then it undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle. For high-quality cuvées, the vin clair can be made and aged in oak barrels, often Chardonnay barrels brought in from Burgundy, just to the south, particularly pièces from Chablis, or demi-muids, or larger vats... It must be this type of barrel that our friends at St. Kilian used. Right then, one last drop for the road…

Hellyers Road 21 yo 2002/2024 (62.4%, OB for La Maison du Whisky & Kirsch Import, Australia, American oak, cask #3093.04)

Hellyers Road 21 yo 2002/2024 (62.4%, OB for La Maison du Whisky & Kirsch Import, Australia, American oak, cask #3093.04) Five stars
I don’t need to elaborate further on my thoughts about this Tasmanian distillery and, above all, its products. While the earliest releases didn’t impress me, each passing year has been more and more convincing. Let’s keep this quick, like having a small spoonful of caviar swallowed in one go (why not?). Colour: gold. Nose: just brilliant. Vanilla cream, passion fruit, mango, orange, nectarine, fir honey, and plenty of pollen—all in complete and total harmony. With water: meadow honey. Mouth (neat): explosively fruity, with touches of varnish and glue, likely from the wood—or perhaps the 62%. With water: what I particularly love are these faintly minty herbal tea notes that join the fruits, mostly yellow fruits, and of course, the honey. Finish: long, with subtle wood emerging and tiny hints of coffee (ditto). Peach skin. Comments: you could almost use this wee marvel to replace honey. Well, maybe not for breakfast.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

More tasting notesCheck the index of all world whiskies we've tasted so far

 

January 30, 2025


Whiskyfun

WF’s Little Duos, today the return of Benromach

 

There’s an intriguing one about high-enzyme malt and last year’s 20 yo by 'Paris'. I suppose the two are going to be very far apart from each other, let’s see…

Benrompach Distillery (Visit Forres)

Benromach

 

 

Benromach 2012/2024 ‘Contrast: High Enzyme’ (46%, OB, first fill bourbon barrel)

Benromach 2012/2024 ‘Contrast: High Enzyme’ (46%, OB, first fill bourbon barrel) Three stars
A playful series by Benromach, featuring some relatively classic elements (more peat) and some more unusual ones, such as a comparison of kiln-dried and air-dried oak, or this high-enzyme malt, which is usually used to produce grain whisky. This is what is called high-DP malt with a lot of nitrogen (DP = diastatic power), and it’s used to convert the mash into fermentable sugars. Typically, about 10% is added to grains like maize or wheat. It’s worth noting that in Scotland, the use of additional enzymes in other forms is not allowed, though it’s permitted elsewhere. Let’s taste this high-DP malt, which should be sweeter and maybe even a little sugary… Colour: white wine. Nose: indeed, it’s very sweet, evoking bottled apple juice, an enormous pile of marshmallows, and touches of very vanilla-forward oak. It feels quite far removed from those slightly ‘dirty’, robust, and smoky Benromachs we love so much. Mouth: yes, it’s sweet, with plenty of apple again, marzipan, grapefruit, and above all a rather noisy oakiness. A standard Benromach would normally handle such situations brilliantly, but this baby Benromach (if I may) struggles a bit with the wood. It almost reminds one of a young Auchentoshan. Finish: medium length, with a hint of orange and perhaps papaya, then more apple juice and a lingering sensation of wood, almost like sawdust. Comments: not bad at all, really, but perhaps best suited for our friends who already have all the ‘normal’ Benromach expressions on their shelves. And remember, it’s only experimental.
SGP:630 - 82 points.

Benromach 20 yo 2003/2024 (56.7%, LMDW, Artist #14, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #666, 172 bottles)

Benromach 20 yo 2003/2024 (56.7%, LMDW, Artist #14, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #666, 172 bottles) Five stars
There were five releases in this dazzling series, of different ages. We had already tasted four of them, all of extremely high quality, but for some unknown reason, this one slipped through my fingers. Let’s rectify that… And do note the rather devilish cask number. Colour: straw. Nose: it immediately reminds me of a malt produced slightly further north along the coast, starting with B. Stunning ashes, coal smoke (they also used to produce coal in the town of Brora), citrus fruits, seawater, shellfish, menthol… To be honest, it’s quite sublime. With water: even more beautiful and even more B. from the north. What kind of sorcery is this? That smoked ham in the background is fantastic, as are those farmyardy and almost stable-like smells. Mouth (neat): fat, oily, very peaty, with splendid bitterness (bitter orange) and a truly beautiful astringency dominated by the zests of all kinds of citrus fruits. A wonderful saline edge too. What’s sure is that it’s not messing about… With water: candied citron and pepper. Finish: very long, very smoky. Ashes and green pepper linger in the aftertaste. Comments: from an especially peated batch, it seems—and as always, those magnificent labels. We love it, though we expected nothing less.
SGP:466 - 91 points.

More tasting notesCheck the index of all Benromach we've tasted so far

 

January 29, 2025


Whiskyfun

Mixed bags

Whiskyfun's mixed bags
A little bag of blended malts

A bit of everything, we may also stumble upon secret single malts trying to play hide-and-seek with us.

Monkey Shoulder ‘Batch 27’ (40%, OB, William Grant & Sons, blended malt, +/-2024)

Monkey Shoulder ‘Batch 27’ (40%, OB, William Grant & Sons, blended malt, +/-2024) Two stars and a half
This one is enjoyed from time to time, being a very important malt in France, a vatting of Glenfiddich, Balvenie, and Kininvie. Since its introduction in 2005, it has always been Batch 27—surely the largest vatting tank in the world! Jokes aside, I used to prefer earlier versions, but things can always evolve. Colour: gold. Nose: well, it’s lovely, ever so slightly cardboardy, but also on shortbread, acacia honey, ripe mirabelles, and cinnamon cake. Honestly, I really like this nose… Perhaps they’ve increased the Balvenie proportion? Mouth: yes, it’s good, not as light as you might expect, with flavours close to the nose, plus a touch of orange. It only loses momentum after about thirty seconds—that’s the 40% for you. Finish: very short, indeed, and that’s its main flaw. A return of cardboard. Comments: a shame, I felt it was heading beyond 80 points.
SGP:441 - 79 points.

Since we were talking about France...

Speyside Blended Malt 12 yo ‘Famille Dupont’ (52.7%, Mossburn, Cask Collaboration Series, calvados finish, 2024)

Speyside Blended Malt 12 yo ‘Famille Dupont’ (52.7%, Mossburn, Cask Collaboration Series, calvados finish, 2024) Four stars
This intriguing baby was finished in ex-calvados Pays d’Auge and ex-pommeau casks. Famille Dupont, renowned calvados makers in Normandy, also produce pommeau—a kind of pineau or ratafia, essentially apple juice fortified with calvados. Colour: light gold. Nose: it’s not easy to detect the calvados in an obvious way, which is for the better, as many aromas from calvados (including apple, naturally) are also commonly found in malt whiskies. This results in a very coherent nose, which I find lovely, round, and well-balanced, with very light muscat-like touches that may stem from the… pommeau. With water: very subtle earthy touches, which are delightful. Mouth (neat): apple and even cider are far more apparent on the palate, with a slightly fizzy character and hints of lemon. This makes the malt very refreshing—it could work beautifully with desserts. Light liquorice and green pepper. With water: more honey, heather, and linden blossom. It’s very good. Finish: rather long, soft yet robust, and very attractive. Comments: essentially a finishing that doesn’t feel like a finishing—right up my alley. And I adore apples. But beware, it goes down all too easily—you’ve been warned.
SGP:641 – 86 points.

The Bad Na H-Achlaise (46%, Badachro Distillery, Tuscan oak, +/-2024)

The Bad Na H-Achlaise (46%, Badachro Distillery, Tuscan oak, +/-2024) Four stars and a half
A name even harder to pronounce than Allt-A-Bhainne or Bruichladdich—quite the achievement! But oops, this is a single malt sourced elsewhere. My bad, as Badachro appears to only make gin and vodka. They’re located on the mainland, just opposite the northern tip of Skye. We had previously tried a cask-strength Bad Na H-Achlaise, which was excellent. Colour: gold. Nose: oh, this is lovely! A medicinal smokiness, but not in the Islay style—perhaps Ledaig? —with oysters, tarred ropes, resinous wood ashes, cherries, oil paint, and fresh tar… all very charming. Mouth: excellent fresh peat, once again with a touch of cherry (perhaps from the Tuscan oak?) and loads of maritime notes, including hints of a neighbouring ship’s hold. Finish: long, more lemony, perfectly ashy, and peaty. Comments: the only issue is going to a whisky shop, not speaking Gaelic, and asking, ‘Have you got some Badnahashlez, by any chance?’… If they don’t throw us out, we’re in luck. A superb bottle.
SGP:564 – 88 points.

Ben & Sherry 6 yo (57.1%, Watt Whisky, blended malt, butt, 282 bottles)

Ben & Sherry 6 yo (57.1%, Watt Whisky, blended malt, butt, 282 bottles) Four stars
This hippy whisky combines fifty percent Benrinnes and fifty percent Glasgow Dist. Let’s try to avoid overly frosty commentary. Colour: Nose: an unusual start, quite fermentary, with notes of cooked vegetables, courgettes, and even Brussels sprouts. Then comes saltpetre, soot, cherry stalks (in herbal tea), and roasted aubergines. It’s very polarising, as they say. With water: still those cooked vegetables, but now joined by honey and slightly "evolved" dried figs. Mouth (neat): more sherry-driven, but spicy and almost fizzy. Think chilli-infused Schweppes, kirsch straight off the still, pink grapefruits, and braised cabbage. With water: it settles down, revealing walnuts, baked apples, marmalade, tobacco, honey, and sweet peppers. Finish: similar, and it lingers for a good while, with a peppery aftertaste. Comments: don’t be fooled—my notes may seem odd, but this little UFO is rather charming, taking you on a journey from Brussels sprouts to meadow honey. Almost a thriller.
SGP:571 – 86 points.

Crimson Casks (46%, Compass Box, blended malt, 2024)

Crimson Casks (46%, Compass Box, blended malt, 2024) Three stars
Sherry butts (yay) but also red wine casks (ouch). You might say that if they added Clynelish, as usual, things would work out. Let’s just hope the proportion of “red wine” (what kind of wine?) remains modest. There are also tales of kings in the story—perhaps a secret nod to Robert Fripp? You know, King Crimson and all that. Colour: reddish amber. There’s definitely red wine here. Nose: well, I rather like this! As expected from Compass Box, it’s well-balanced, though there are plenty of peonies, black cherries, tomato leaves, roasted peppers, raspberry ganache, and heaps of milk chocolate. Mouth: it’s more of a mix on the palate, a “cuisine whisky” as some might say. Dark chocolate, morello cherries, red peppers, dates, prunes, marmalade, raisins, and hints of ginger… It’s remarkably structured, almost like molecular cuisine. Finish: long, jammy, and spicy, with a certain Turkish delight vibe. Candied orange zest lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: it’s really amusing, but please, Adrià and Veyrat, stay out of my glass!
SGP:551 – 82 points.

Blended Malt 23 yo 2001/2024 (45.1%, Decadent Drams, Decadent Drinks)

Blended Malt 23 yo 2001/2024 (45.1%, Decadent Drams, Decadent Drinks) Four stars and a half
Watch this one, it’s been finished for a year in an ex-Ardbeg cask, which feels pretty decadent indeed. But here we are… Colour: amber. Nose: it seems the Ardbeg cask had been thoroughly emptied—or rinsed—or steamed… Or perhaps not? You do catch distant hints of burnt tyres (was there an F1 GP nearby?) and a faint whiff of medicinal tincture, but that’s about it. Oh wait, a little menthol emerges too, along with perhaps three or four whelks, a sense of old dunnage warehouse, and a trace of dried kelp on the beach. Right then, this might just be the ideal way to create a ‘lighter’ Ardbeg. A stunning nose, truly, so delicate and finely chiselled. But as we’ve said before, Ardbeg leaves its mark even at homeopathic doses, doesn’t it? Mouth: zut alors, this is fantastic stuff! A faint Schorle-like vibe, with strawberry lemonade and chilli, but also a charmingly saline fruitiness. Blood oranges, pecans, and a slightly earthy, dirty (slaggy) touch—surely the Ardbeg’s doing. Finish: long, with quinine and orange. Comments: one simple question—can they make this in-cask blended malt exactly like this again?
SGP:562 – 88 points.

It’s time to stop; let’s have an old one as a digestif.

Glen Avon 30 yo (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Avonside, +/-1990)

Glen Avon 30 yo (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, Avonside, +/-1990) Four stars and a half
Whoops, another single malt in disguise. It’s worth noting that no one at G&M has ever admitted what Glen Avon really was, not even under torture (even after being tied up and forced to listen to Mariah Carey’s entire discography). Main candidates, M. and GF. That said, the vintages of Glen Avon that were available more or less coincided with those of Macallan, which were also bottled by G&M. However, it’s not set in stone that all Glen Avons came from the same distillery… Same goes for the Glen Gordons. Anyway, let’s simply taste this baby without any further ado. Colour: gold. Nose: there’s this smokiness we never found in GF, but which was common in M. It’s also less fruity than the GFs of the time. On the other hand, there are superb notes of shoe polish and tobacco. Roasted nuts of all kinds complete the profile beautifully. Mouth: it’s just a tiny bit tired, having become slightly dry, fairly liquorice-y, mentholated, and meaty (bone broth), but the smokiness remains, and those roasted nuts are still doing their job in the background. All in all, it’s still magnificent, just a bit fragile and light. Finish: short to medium in length, with a touch of plasticine and a faint salty edge. There’s a hint of sorrel soup in the aftertaste, but it’s very elegant. Oh, and a little piece of grilled bacon. Comments: it’s a bit like a vintage sports car—you just need to handle it gently. This resembles M. a great deal, but then again, the river Avon flows into the river Spey right next to Ballindalloch, the home of GF. M. is much further away, on the Spey. Right, enough playing Sherlock Holmes…
SGP:452 - 89 points.

(Thank you, Brian)

 

January 28, 2025


Whiskyfun

Back to Japan, with glory and panache!

Okay, we savoured some sublime Japanese whiskies at the end of last year; it's time to start again in 2025. Let's try a variety of styles today...

Distilling equipment at Sakurao Distillery (Sakurao)

Sakurao

 

 

Togouchi ‘Misty’ (48%, OB, Stillman’s Selection, Japan, 2024)

Togouchi ‘Misty’ (48%, OB, Stillman’s Selection, Japan, 2024) Three stars
While the Togouchi whiskies we used to encounter in Europe were largely sourced and imported spirits not distilled in Japan, the owners, Sakurao in Hiroshima, established their own distillery in 2017, which began producing peated malt in early 2018. Hurrah, this means we are now enjoying a true Japanese single malt in our glass. Colour: white wine. Nose: exceedingly light and, above all, very fresh, with green apples and subtle hints of green tea. There’s a delicate Sauvignon Blanc character, particularly with honeysuckle, which suits it well. A touch of gooseberries follows, then vanilla and a whisper of fresh coconut, though nothing excessive. The profile is faintly reminiscent of older malts distilled in Lomond stills (Mosstowie!). Mouth: that same freshness continues, with a hint of bubblegum mingling with those distinctive green apples, a touch of coconut, chlorophyll-infused chewing gum, and a trace of liquorice wood. Finish: of medium length, displaying a certain acidity that once again evokes Sauvignon Blanc. Coconut milk re-emerges in the aftertaste, accompanied by a very faint saline note. Comments: it feels youthful and a tad light(ish), but the freshness is perfectly delightful.
SGP:550 - 82 points.

Sakurao ‘Sherry Cask’ (50%, OB, Stillman’s Selection, Japan, +/-2024)

Sakurao ‘Sherry Cask’ (50%, OB, Stillman’s Selection, Japan, +/-2024) Three stars and a half
From the same distillery. It’s to be noted that the hybrid spirit still is equipped with a column, which might explain the Togouchi’s relative lightness. Let’s see how it fares in this ‘Sakurao’ version… Colour: gold. Nose: more body here, with the sherry doing its job. Notes of leather, walnuts, and tobacco emerge, alongside a hint of patchouli and ylang-ylang. A faint touch of sushi sauce (of course!). With water: the coherence strengthens, with menthol and anise rising to the fore. It seems to thrive with water. Mouth (neat): leaning more towards young kirsch, with a paraffin and almond milk character, followed by cinnamon mints and traces of pine resin, as well as orange marmalade. The overall texture remains fairly light. With water: once again, water works wonders, moving it towards chartreuse and verbena, almost with hints of absinthe. Finish: medium in length, with the casks regaining a bit of control. Walnuts make a return. Comments: very pleasant. I wonder if they’re also experimenting with double distillation through the sole wash still, which is a classic pot still—that would be intriguing. But that’s none of my business, is it…
SGP:551 - 83 points.

Chichibu 9 yo 2015/2024 ‘Daikokuten’ (61.9%, OB, Spirits of Salud, 7even Gods of Fortune, second fill bourbon barrel, cask #4664, 187 bottles)

Chichibu 9 yo 2015/2024 ‘Daikokuten’ (61.9%, OB, Spirits of Salud, 7even Gods of Fortune, second fill bourbon barrel, cask #4664, 187 bottles) Five stars
Last year, we sampled a sister cask (Angel’s Favourite), and as expected, it left us rather impressed. In any case, Chichibu and bourbon barrels tango beautifully, as we know. Colour: white wine. Nose: a blade that slices right through you, as the saying goes. A perfect assembly of lime, rhubarb, cider apples, and passion fruit. But at this strength, let’s not take too many chances… With water: even livelier, sharper with water, as blood oranges join the party and mingle wonderfully. Stunning. Mouth (neat): it’s fatty, it’s oily, yet it delivers a vibrant freshness that jolts your spine. Remarkable notes of lemony eucalyptus and a hint of honey—at least it seems so—but again, water is more than welcome. With water: yes, that’s it, spot on. Lemons, grapefruit, cinchona, eucalyptus, and a touch of woodruff. Beautiful green pepper lingers in the background, keeping everything energetic and taut like a bowstring. Finish: long, fresh, with green apples taking the lead, almost refreshing—but therein lies the trap, right. Playful green oak in the aftertaste, including the honeydew our friendly bees craft for our delight. A dash of menthol too. Comments: right up my street—or motorway, as I was about to say. The only flaw? We saw it coming. Right.
SGP:561 - 91 points.

Here, let’s also taste two or three yet-untasted classic favourites cherished by the chic Parisians from LMDW...

Yamazaki 20 yo 1986/2006 ‘Owner’s Cask’ (60%, OB, La Maison du Whisky 50th Anniversary, Butt/Mizunara, cask #6G5029, 405 bottles)

Yamazaki 20 yo 1986/2006 ‘Owner’s Cask’ (60%, OB, La Maison du Whisky 50th Anniversary, Butt/Mizunara, cask #6G5029, 405 bottles) Five stars
It’s unclear whether this is a ‘double cask’ sherry butt + mizunara or if the butt itself was constructed from mizunara oak, but let’s not nitpick too much. Regardless, both this older series and these 1980s vintages of Yamazaki have now reached legendary status, and I’d add that, in my opinion, they also benefit greatly from (slow) bottle ageing. Colour: gold. Nose: a blend of chestnut honey and fir honey—that’s it for now (but it’s a lot, as these honeys are incredibly complex). With water: all the resins, glues, sap, and vegetal varnishes of the world, adorned with a few fresh almonds and walnuts. Absolute compactness. Mouth (neat): oh, my goodness! Maximum resinous and camphoraceous power—it just pins you to the wall. Plenty of black propolis as well, tying back to the fir honey and, naturally, the mizunara. And a distinct glue-like sensation. An incredible gustatory territory. With water: it softens a bit, but various peppers take over in the most beautiful way—so many different types of pepper. Finish: long and, at last, a touch gentler and more benevolent, with some white fruits joining this intensely sappy cavalcade. Comments: I think—no, I am certain—that 20 years in glass have only elevated this Yamazaki further. I’d even suggest it might have climbed from 90 to 93 points. I humbly say this because we tasted many of these Owner’s Casks when they were released in the 2000s, so we have some perspective. But anyway…
SGP:572 - 93 points.

Just to clarify, the word ‘butt’, or bota in Spanish, or botte in French refers to a type and size of cask, which doesn’t necessarily indicate sherry. For instance, here in Alsace, distillers used to macerate berries or small fruits in bottes. So, if you come across the term ‘butt’, it doesn’t automatically mean sherry. There you have it! Let’s carry on with another special selection from LMDW…

Karuizawa-1976-2010-63.6-OB-LMDW-Whisky-Live-Paris-first-fill-sherry-butt-cask-7818-554-bottles

Karuizawa 1976/2010 (63.6%, OB, LMDW/Whisky Live Paris, first fill sherry butt, cask #7818, 554 bottles) Five stars
Featuring the iconic ‘vintage label’ of the era, with its disarming modesty. I believe another version from the same cask was also released with the ‘Geisha’ label by Number One Drinks Company, far less, shall we say, austere. Colour: dark amber. Nose: every time we sample one of the +/-300 Karuizawa single casks—especially one without a prior formal note—it is a humbling experience. Here, it’s the massive oak that commands attention. What might be a flaw elsewhere feels sumptuous here, as it disassembles itself into multiple subcategories, which we could outline as follows: chocolate, prunes, coffee, tobacco, tar, and aged Ténarèze. With water: small hydrocarbons, oils, essences, and coal tar emerge, alongside red and brown sauces reminiscent of Asian cuisine, which we, of course, adore. A few notes of overripe, dark bananas as well. Mouth (neat): again, so much black pepper and gunpowder on the first sip might suggest a flaw, yet dried figs, dates, and an old Demerara rum character immediately transform it into splendour. You’d almost forget the 63.6% ABV. With water: boom. Pine sap, black pepper, dark tobacco, sloes, hoisin sauce, and manuka honey. Finish: similarly enduring, with just a touch of currants as a signature, plus a few drops of ultra-aged brandy de Jerez. Comments: I see no reason to assign a score different from that of the Yamazaki—and besides, that would be vulgar, would it not.
SGP:661 - 93 points.
Karuizawa 1976/2010 (63.6%, OB, LMDW/Whisky Live Paris, first fill sherry butt, cask #7818, 554 bottles)

A sixth and final one. In any case, if we go any further, we’ll run out of oxygen…

Karuizawa 1970/2011 (59.1%, OB, La Maison du Whisky, bourbon barrel, cask #1985, 181 bottles)

Karuizawa 1970/2011 (59.1%, OB, La Maison du Whisky, bourbon barrel, cask #1985, 181 bottles) Five stars
No need to say much. Colour: amber. Nose: naturally, one might wonder if a Karuizawa without sherry could stand tall. The answer is a resounding yes. In fact, the astonishing aromatic combination that leaps—more or less subtly—to your nose, at least in this instance, leaves no doubt. Every honey, every tobacco notes, all the yellow flowers and dried fruits are here, placing us firmly in the realm of a truly great and very old agricole rum—but with a turbocharger. I don’t know anyone who could resist this, not even an U.S. president who’s become a teetotaller but who was not some decades ago (according to certain NYC bartenders in the press). Beeswax reigning in splendour. With water: unchanged. Magnificent. Mouth (neat): broad, ample oak, dancing spices, unbridled peppers, rebellious citrus, and impeccable waxiness. You get the picture—those little words should convey the impact of such a whisky. With water: utterly superlative, and those spices! Finish: long, dominated by black and grey peppers, balanced with a hint of pink peppercorn. A drying finale reminiscent of a very old amontillado—and yet, it’s definitely ex-bourbon. Comments: let’s say it—it’s reminiscent of Clynelish circa 1972.
SGP:661 - 95 points.

(Arigato¯ to Thierry, LMDW & the Golden Promise bar)

More tasting notesCheck the index of all Japanese whiskies we've tasted so far

 

January 27, 2025


Whiskyfun

Time

The Time Warp Sessions,
one of the most recent Longrows versus one of the oldest

I'll admit it—this is probably the most nonsensical session in the world. In essence, we’re going to place ourselves at the two extremes of the same malt—and not just any malt. On one side, we’ll have a very recent 7-year-old infused with red wine, and on the other, the very last cask from the very first year of Longrow distillation at Springbank, 1973. If you’re up for trying this slightly extreme (and maybe a bit silly, let’s be honest) adventure, then let’s dive in with enthusiasm and, above all, an open mind...

Longrow
Campbeltown, 2005. A picture of questionable
interest (WF Archive)

 

 

Longrow 7 yo ‘Red’ (57.1%, OB, Pinot Noir cask, 10,000 bottles, 2024)

Longrow 7 yo ‘Red’ (57.1%, OB, Pinot Noir cask, 10,000 bottles, 2024) Three stars
4 years in bourbon followed by 3 years in French Pinot Noir casks, from Burgundy as we read here and there. Thus far, peat and red wine have paired about as harmoniously as mustard and coffee. Regarding these Longrow Reds, we’ve already endured Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Australian Shiraz, Port, Nebbiolo from Barolo, and even Pinot Noir in a 12-year-old from 2022. At least we’ve been spared Merlot, Tempranillo, and Zinfandel. But buckle up, Montjoie! Saint-Denis! off we go… Colour: light gold, not quite as ‘red’ as one might expect, which is rather surprising. Nose: it whispers at first, offering that lovely fresh rubber characteristic of Longrow, before a combination of raspberry liqueur, tomato leaf, charcoal, fatty lamb (chorba), and finally those coastal notes we so adore make their presence felt. It seems that a degree of balance has been maintained this time. With water: the distillate appears to retain the lead on the nose, and rightly so. No overly discordant red berry notes, though perhaps a hint of ‘hare’s belly’, as they say in Burgundy. Mouth (neat): the wine definitely asserts itself on the malt, with a strong impression of guignolet (cherry liqueur) beyond the pepper and salt. It’s somewhat like tasting a smoked oyster with redcurrant jelly. Strangely enough, it’s not bad this time. With water: well, yes, this isn’t bad at all. The fresh rubber returns, along with bitter oranges, clams, bacon, and pepper. Finish: long, leaning towards green pepper, roasted bell pepper, salt, and rubber, though bitter oranges add a touch of contradiction. The aftertaste is heavily peppery. Comments: not the worst of these ‘Reds’; on the contrary, we rather like it. How about Alsatian Pinot Noir next time?
SGP:665 - 82 points.

Longrow 1973 ‘First Distillation - Last Cask’ (43.2%, OB, cask #1723, +/-1990)

Longrow 1973 ‘First Distillation - Last Cask’ (43.2%, OB, cask #1723, +/-1990) Five stars
Cask 1723 was the very last filled during Longrow’s first year of distillation at Springbank in 1973, using malted barley heavily peated by prolonged exposure to peat smoke. Let’s recall that at the time, peated malts were in high demand by blenders, while Islay was somewhat underproducing. There had been an original Longrow Distillery in Campbeltown, but it only operated in the 19th century and was closed in 1896—its warehouses are now used by Springbank. This bottle is, of course, rather rare but, oddly enough, not completely unobtainable. Colour: straw. Nose: an incredible profile, very distinctive, both peaty and gentle, with a faintly resinous fruitiness that immediately recalls yellow Chartreuse (the one with honey), followed by almond milk, seashells, hints of thyme and rosemary, a stack of old books half-bound in leather (indeed), an aged mink coat, and finally camphor and an old Tiger Balm-like softness of infinite elegance. It feels a bit like encountering a superbly aged old Chardonnay, perhaps a Montrachet. Fir honey emerges after ten good minutes. Mouth: that very faintly cardboardy note found in some of the earliest ‘new’ Longrows reappears, but the salinity, ashes, and delicate touches of suet and bacon are simply magnificent. The overall impression is wonderfully delicate, almost fragile, as if whispering, yet the saline, tarry, and camphorous notes are not far removed from those of old Ardbegs, like the 30-year-old ‘Very Old’. Altogether, it’s like fine lacework… Finish: not very long but highly elegant, remaining delicate and saline, rounded off with a few drops of excellent mead. There’s an amusing medicinal touch right at the end. Comments: with just a little more oomph, this could have been an ultimate star. One imagines the bottling strength of 43.2% was natural and that, after about twenty years, the cask underwent significant evaporation in a cold, damp warehouse. In any case, it remains magnificent.
SGP:564 - 92 points.

More tasting notesCheck the index of all Longrow we've tasted so far

 

Wgiskyfun 101

  Alcohol levels
Reminder: In a hot and dry warehouse, it’s the water that evaporates more, which can increase the alcohol content. Conversely, in a cold and damp warehouse, it’s the alcohol that evaporates, which will lower the alcohol content.
 

January 26, 2025


Whiskyfun

  A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

 

 

More grand armagnacs

We had some truly wonderful ones last Sunday, and we’ll probably continue in the same vein today, with a rather special selection. After all, life’s too short…

Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)
"Constantly oscillating between the torments of desire and the tedium of its fulfilment" (quoted very freely).

Schopenhauer

 

 

Hontambère 2013/2024 (49.8%, OB, Rare Armagnac Collection, Ténarèze, cask #A24)

Hontambère 2013/2024 (49.8%, OB, Rare Armagnac Collection, Ténarèze, cask #A24) Four stars and a half
This cask-strength Folle Blanche was matured in French oak and stored in a dry cellar. We already enjoyed an excellent 2011 Baco from Hontambère last Sunday. Colour: gold. Nose: lovely tension on citrus, starting slightly kirsch-like at first, with a touch of parsley, then moving into praline and nougat while remaining quite vibrant and fruity. It evolves towards orgeat syrup, orange marmalade, and damson tart. Very compact and elegant, though a little camphor emerges later, adding further depth. Mouth: splendid power, with a certain tannic grip and red fruit notes reminiscent of a very young Bordeaux. That doesn’t last long, however, as it shifts towards liquorice and praline, with a faint salinity and a slight herbal quality that hints at its youth. Finish: long, more precise, with fruity herbal teas, then pepper and touches of paraffin. Comments: very good, rather vigorous, though let’s not forget that even at “only” 49.8%, it’s cask strength!
SGP:561 - 88 points.

Château de Laubade 2006/2022 (52.9%, OB, Bas-armagnac, cask #F1994-071, chai #1, tirage #1)

Château de Laubade 2006/2022 (52.9%, OB, Bas-armagnac, cask #F1994-071, chai #1, tirage #1) Four stars and a half
We’re in the Gers with this renowned house, which here offers us a blend of Baco, Ugni Blanc, and Plant de Graisse—a rare and ancient variety from the Gouais family that nearly vanished from the region with the arrival of phylloxera. Colour: deep gold. Nose: more classic, slightly rounder, yet highly aromatic, with violet scents alongside orange cake and honeysuckle. Beautiful. With water: as often with these spirits, water reveals an earthy touch, along with black nougat, a hint of dried Caesar mushroom powder (crazy stuff), and even a trace of gunpowder. Splendid – but peace! Mouth (neat): a slightly creamy and luscious start, quickly underpinned by beautiful black pepper, then developing into oranges, candied quince, and the same violets as on the nose. With water: superb spiced orange marmalade, enhanced by a touch of vanilla and liquorice. Finish: very long, now more herbal and rustic, with green tea and liquorice wood. Comments: a true delight. I know some Armagnac producers offer pure Plant de Graisse, and we’ll certainly try to find one.
SGP:561 - 88 points.

Charron 2004/2024 (51.3%, Grape of the Art, cask #95, 256 bottles)

Charron 2004/2024 (51.3%, Grape of the Art, cask #95, 256 bottles) Four stars and a halfThis time it’s Baco matured in a wet cellar rather than a dry one. We’ve always enjoyed the official bottlings from Domaine de Charron—you know, the famous labels adorned with the typical Gascon zebras (right, indeed, S., after a few glasses, perhaps…). Colour: full gold. Nose: it opens on glue and varnish, much like a good bourbon, then moves towards kirsch, cherry stones, and even a spirited young Pinot Noir (which, of course, has nothing to do with adding Pinot Noir to your spirit, as the Scots sometimes kind of do). It remains very compact for now, which we rather like. With water: little change, still tightly knit on the nose. Mouth (neat): quite explosive, again with varnish but also sweetcorn, followed by what feels like a mountain of ripe peaches of various kinds. Black cherries make a strong return as well. With water: incredible—barely any change, almost like an all-terrain Armagnac. Finish: long, leaning more towards chocolate rum-raisin, but without excessive sweetness. The cherries return to bid farewell in the aftertaste. Comments: remarkably compact, with a highly unorthodox profile.
SGP:661 - 89 points.

Uby-18-yo-XL-43-OB-for-Wine4you-Bas-armagnac-2013

Uby 18 yo ‘XL’ (43%, OB for Wine4you, Bas-armagnac, 2013) Four stars
I believe Domaine Uby are more renowned for their wines (Côtes-de-Gascogne), though I’ve not tried any yet. Their Armagnacs are known for their very, shall we say, ‘transgressive’ packaging. Colour: gold. Nose: a very round, seductive style, packed with dried and stewed fruits, even banana beyond figs and raisins. It then evolves towards liquorice allsorts with amusing and unexpected touches of cumin and charcoal. Freshly baked cakes straight from the oven. Mouth: an ultra-aromatic and fruity profile, almost exotic or even oriental. Piles of dried figs, sultanas, honeyed pastries, orange blossom, a hint of caraway, and always those liquorice allsorts. Finish: slightly sweet, rather long given the strength, still on dried and stewed fruits. A mentholated, liquorice-like, and muscaty note lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: danger alert—at 43%, you might find yourself tempted to sip more than is reasonable. Shamefully excellent.
SGP:751 - 87 points.

Sourdois 1986/2024 (51%, Poh! Spirits, Bas-armagnac)

Sourdois 1986/2024 (51%, Poh! Spirits, Bas-armagnac) Four stars and a half
A 38-year-old Baco from the Sourdois Lacourt distillery in Toujouse (no typo), Gers. This is the first Armagnac from Sourdois that we have the pleasure of tasting. Colour: mahogany. Nose: decidedly old-school, heavily on prunes and coffee liqueur, with strawberry and mirabelle jam, followed by a subtle and elegant meaty note (game, beef jerky, sushi sauce, lovage). With water: soy sauce and fresh ink take the lead, followed by a sack of charcoal. Mouth (neat): rich, creamy, and very woody, yet completely in line with a highly traditional Armagnac style. A Sunday Armagnac, we might say. Menthol, pine resin, bitter chocolate, coffee, and prunes. With water: much the same, with added roasted pine nuts and a mentholated edge. Finish: long, pleasantly bitter, featuring Corsican myrtle liqueur and liquorice wood. The wood lingers beautifully in the aftertaste. Comments: this style is a bit like an old black-and-white film—more charm than entertainment compared to, say the latest South Korean Netflix series, but undeniably delightful in its own way.
SGP:461 - 88 points.

Lasalle Baqué 1982/2024 (48.6%, Poh! Spirits, Ténarèze)

Lasalle Baqué 1982/2024 (48.6%, Poh! Spirits, Ténarèze) Five stars
A pure Ugni Blanc (hence all the fruit) from Montréal. Montréal-du-Gers, of course. We’ve already enjoyed excellent Lassalle Baqué before. Colour: full gold. Nose: sheer indulgence, with intense yet subtle fruitiness—heavy vineyard peaches, well-behaved sultanas, blooming wisteria, and perhaps a tiny piece of fresh pineapple. Generous quantities of wildflower honey coat everything beautifully, much to our delight. The polar opposite of the Sourdois, in a way. Mouth: superb, with a thunderous fruitiness mingling with soft spices and delightful liquorice. The oak makes itself known again but here it only punctuates waves of fruits—ripe, candied, dried, or jammy in turn. Prunes and apricots take centre stage. Finish: long, with bursts of tobacco and dark chocolate. As often, it’s some slightly mentholated liquorice that lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: the best of both worlds—the austerity of the wood and the exuberance of the fruit, perfectly synchronised.
SGP:661 - 90 points.

Domaine de Baraillon 1976-1979/2024 (42%, OB, Bas-armagnac for Passion for Whisky)

Domaine de Baraillon 1976-1979/2024 (42%, OB, Bas-armagnac for Passion for Whisky) Five stars
A twin vintage here, though the years are very close—1976 being legendary due to the extreme heatwave that struck France that year. Naturally, the French state took the opportunity to raise extra taxes. Let me remind you that in Armagnac, the vintage refers to the harvest year, not the distillation year, unlike in Scotland. Colour: amber. Nose: it’s unbearable—these Baraillons are always magical, it’s almost boring. Stuff for Schopenhauerians, as with these babies, one oscillates between the suffering of desire when you don’t have them, and the boredom of total satisfaction when you do. Alright, enough nonsense, the nose is sublime, with a slightly acidic edge that elevates everything, exactly as in all truly great wines. Very impressive. Mouth: absolutely splendid, like a truly great black tea now—seriously, a very great black tea. Almost transcendental (don’t ask me how that ties into Schopenhauer). Finish: not immense, but still all about that remarkable black tea, now joined by a saline and chocolatey touch. Comments: total oneness—not easily broken down into components, but only the finest spirits can offer such an experience.
SGP:652 - 92 points.

Last one please…

Domaine Bellair 1974/2024 (44.9%, L’Encantada for LMDW, Foundations, Bas-armagnac)

Domaine Bellair 1974/2024 (44.9%, L’Encantada for LMDW, Foundations, Bas-armagnac) Five stars
100% Baco here, theoretically with more texture than Ugni Blancs, which are thought to be fruitier. Colour: full gold. Nose: incredible. I read in the LMDW catalogue that this Armagnac reminded them of Calvados, and they were absolutely right—it’s like an excellent old Calvados, only a bit rounder. Amazing! Gentle earthiness, apples galore, honeydew, farm cider, then a handful of herbs—chervil, tarragon, watercress… Truly impressive, already showing significant tertiary development, and simply beautiful. By the way, 2024-1974=50. Mouth: the most astonishing thing is how seamlessly it continues on the palate. You could almost copy and paste what we scribbled about the nose. What kind of sorcery is this? Only after a good five minutes does the grape start peeking through, with the familiar notes of vineyard peaches and raisins. Finish: not immense, but quite magnificent. And of course, we couldn’t end without mentioning tarte tatin. Comments: immensely impressive. This delightful old Armagnac reminds us that, with age, mature spirits tend to converge. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if the same were true of politicians?
SGP:661 - 91 points.

More tasting notesCheck the index of all armagnacs we've tasted so far

 

January 25, 2025


Whiskyfun

 

 

 

Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland


Glen Garioch, in the face of Storm Éowyn

I know I said last week that we'd have the second part of this wee China exploration. However, Storm Éowyn is churning away outside and I have already been out with chainsaw once today, so I think, in the interests of comfort, we'll stick closer to home and tackle this wee pile of Glen Garioch that's been burning a hole in the sample shelf for a few months now... 
Angus  

 

 

 

 

 

Glen Garioch 11 yo 2011/2023 (53.2% Hidden Spirits for Rudder, cask #1123, 1st fill bourbon barrel, 267 bottles)

Glen Garioch 11 yo 2011/2023 (53.2% Hidden Spirits for Rudder, cask #1123, 1st fill bourbon barrel, 267 bottles)
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: creamy and waxy, but with a nicely chalky and slightly gristy quality as well which brings a sense of balancing dryness. Gets also quickly very bready and yeasty, going towards top notch blanc du blanc Champagne, then a few yellow flowers such as dandelions. Really enjoying the evolution of this one, and all the big 'white wine' vibes, which are always welcome in these naked highlanders. With water: on lemons, waxes, sheep wool and more of these green notes that suggest vase water and crushed nettles. Mouth: very close to the distillate, young, green, chalky, waxy and with quite a bit of vase water and chlorophyll. Also, peppery watercress and tarragon. With water: a little straighter, in that it's quite dominated by grasses, cereals, chalk, dry waxes and peppery notes. Finish: medium, drying, peppery and with a nice flinty mineral touch. Comments: I like these young Glen Gariochs, but they are rather powerful and punchy drams. I can imagine these casks at 20+ years old will be sensational. 
SGP: 461 - 85 points. 

 

 

Glen Garioch 18 yo 2003 (58.3%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society 19.50 'A Special Treat', 1st fill barrel, 186 bottles)

Glen Garioch 18 yo 2003 (58.3%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society 19.50 'A Special Treat', 1st fill barrel, 186 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: you spot the similarities, it feels straight away like the same weight of distillate, but this is broader, deeper and more dominated by heather honey and some beautiful notes of citrus curds, preserved exotic fruits and fruit salad juices. Also a pang of something slightly lactic, like mango lassi, and some classic waxes and vanilla sponge cake. With water: more peppery and feeling overall drier, punchier and more full of breads and cereals. Mouth: lovely balance between the sweetness and spice of the oak, and the juiciness, waxes and fruits of the distillate. Feels like an exemplary 'modern highlander' in this regard. A few more green fruit notes and a nudge towards grasses and nettles in a way which is close to the 2011. With water: as on the nose, it becomes drier and more cereal, with more peppery notes, more waxes and more mineral characteristics. Finish: good length, perhaps missing some of the overt fruitiness of the undiluted palate, but with excellent notes of waxes and olive oil. Comments: big, grown up, modern, highland malt whisky that displays excellent distillery character. 
SGP: 561 - 87 points.

 

 

Glen Garioch 31 yo (54.6%, Elixir Distillers 'Macbeth Act One: The Thanes', four bourbon barrels, 600 bottles)

Glen Garioch 31 yo (54.6%, Elixir Distillers 'Macbeth Act One: The Thanes', four bourbon barrels, 600 bottles)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: a decisively old school shift, with many waxes, honeys and dessert wine vibes. Also orange blossom, yellow plums, citrus curds and juicy fruit chewing gum. These citrus notes develop very beautifully towards things like lemon peel and aged cheng pi, also quite a few fruit tea notes coming through as well. With water: orange marmalade, lime leaf, herbal bitters and cigar 'stuff', like cedar wood boxes and humidors. Mouth: good arrival, even though the oak nibbles a little bit here and there, the general sense of waxes and honeys remains loud and clear. It's also more orangey, with old Cointreau, orange liqueur and old-fashioned cocktail impressions. A few resinous herbal notes and things like dried mint and fir wood, along with camphor and putty. With water: wee notes of coconut water and gorse flower, along with a resurgent flavour of flower honey, nectars and pollens. A slightly peppery and spicy waxy character, along with some strongly brewed fruit teas. Finish: long, on flowers, nectars, green and exotic fruit cordials and a drying, peppery finish. Comments: really excellent, but a little too much wood here and there prevents it hitting the 90 mark in my wee book. Lovely old Glen Garioch though. 
SGP: 561 - 89 points. 

 

 

Glen Garioch 40 yo 1973/2014 (54.3%, OB for The Whisky Exchange, #4297, sherry butt, 138 bottles)

Glen Garioch 40 yo 1973/2014 (54.3%, OB for The Whisky Exchange, #4297, sherry butt, 138 bottles)
Colour: reddish mahogany. Nose: peat and old-style sherry, at great age, reaching a perfect singularity! Stunning notes of hardwood resins, herbal cough syrups, big umami notes such as Maggi and black olive tapenade, and then natural tar resins, delicate wood smoke and teas such as lapsing souchong and pu erh. Also liquorice root and a rising herbal liqueur vibe. Beautiful and definitely a lost style of whisky. With water: magnificent, even deeper, richer and broader in profile. Stunning earthiness, many tobacco and cigar qualities, a whole humidor of aged, unlit cigars, walnut liqueur, very old dry oloroso and the best dark chocolate. Mouth: amazing arrival, undeniably assertive woodiness, but it's never astringent, instead it's full of stunningly detailed spices, fresh espresso, natural tar, bitter herbs, lovage, bouillon and game meats. All perfectly integrated with these resinous peat and medicine notes, dried flowers, incense and wormwood. A whisky that shouldn't work, but absolutely does. With water: becomes velvety in texture and develops a stunning chocolatey note, along with salted liquorice, bay leaf, more natural tar and more camphor notes. Also many darker fruit notes emerging, such as cassis and bramble cordial. Juicy, dark and outrageously velvety in texture. Finish: long, back on earthy black tea, green Chartreuse, orange cocktail bitters, clove and aniseed. A perfect bitterness that involves chocolate, coffee and Maggi lingers into the aftertaste. Comments: casks like these are truly rare occurrences in whisky, and arguably totally extinct these days. An amazing fusion of ancient sherry and old style peated highland distillate. 
SGP: 474 - 92 points. 

 

 

Glen Garioch 29 yo 1968/1997 (56.9%, OB, cask #623, sherry hogshead)

Glen Garioch 29 yo 1968/1997 (56.9%, OB, cask #623, sherry hogshead)
From a bottle that my friend and business partner, Jonny McMillan, has just opened and which he's including in an old and rare bottle tasting in partnership with his former employers, Berry Brothers, in London next month. I believe there are still tickets available... Colour: reddish coffee. Nose: the same territory as the 1973, but this is another level. The same stunning fusion of peat and sherry, but the peat is more prominent here and it is also much more opulently on dark, luscious fruits. Raisins and sultanas soaked in very old Fins Bois cognac, fig jam, dark fruit chutneys with very old balsamic, prune molasses, date syrup and toasted fennel seed. The interplay of dark fruits, sub-divided old peat and various herbal inclusions is just utterly gorgeous. With water: saltier, more rugged, leaning slightly more towards the sherry now with these stunning earthy, salty and sherry bodega vibes. Also artichoke and green walnut liqueurs with soy sauce and Iberico ham. Mouth: immense, totally stunning, immediately call the anti-maltoporn brigade please! Not sure they can get here in this weather, we'll just have to persevere... the peat is so thick, dense, amazing dry, peppery, herbal and even vegetal; a style that reminds me of some much older 1940s Highland Park bottlings we opened on Orkney around ten years ago. Also a massive slug of very old Clacquesin tar liqueur. So many tiny subtleties and details that we could be here for hours, but really this is a whisky about immensity, controlled power and force of personality. With water: censored! We're off, lost in that zone where the whisky has taken the lead and you are left scrambling to keep up. Finish: immense, almost extreme, and comedically long. A whisky that laughs over its shoulder at you! Comments: the 40yo was stunning, but this one, captured at a younger age, is just in another galaxy. Whisky that almost physically forces you to re-examine your own ideas about quality and flavour. 
SGP: 566 - 94 points. 

 

 

Big thanks to KC and to Jonny. 

 

 

 

More tasting notesCheck the index of all Glen Garioch we've tasted so far

 

January 24, 2025


Whiskyfun

WF’s Little Duos, today Old Rhosdhu

Undoubtedly the lightest version of Loch Lomond, sold very young and at a very low price, either without an age statement or at 5 years old, from the 1980s until the mid-2000s. It wasn’t very good, let’s say, but it was also truly one of the cheapest single malts you could find. Later, independent bottlings, usually distilled in the 1990s, caught the attention of enthusiasts, following two or three older officials distilled in the 1960s. According to scotchwhisky.com, that marvellous (now inactive) website—let’s light a candle every day to keep it alive—Loch Lomond stopped producing Old Rhosdhu in the year 2000.

Old Rhosdhu from around 1990,
a star for frugal malt enthusiasts. >>>
 

 

 

Old Rhosdhu 30 yo 1994/2024 (48.6%, Gleann Mor, Rare Find, refill hogshead, cask #229, 321 bottles)

Old Rhosdhu 30 yo 1994/2024 (48.6%, Gleann Mor, Rare Find, refill hogshead, cask #229, 321 bottles) Four stars
Colour: pale gold. Nose: it opens on a touch of fresh sawdust, grated coconut, and underripe banana, but all of this feels fresh and lively, especially as a lovely fruitiness quickly takes over. Oranges, mirabelles, and plums, all ripe but not overly so, if you see what I mean. Then come kiwis and fresh rhubarb, adding even more zing. Very charming. Mouth: this is truly delightful, in the style of a fine mid-aged Speysider, with those hallmark yellow and white fruits and those notes of fresh oak. It’s elegant, with a controlled tannic grip. Not hugely full-bodied, but that suits it perfectly. Finish: medium in length, with a curious salinity. Where could that have come from? Also touches of agave, aniseed, and liquorice. It’s a bit like a top-notch margarita. Comments: surprisingly excellent, especially if you remember, indeed, the humble little Old Rhosdhu NAS OB from the 1990s (€15).
SGP:551 - 87 points.

Old Rhosdhu 29 yo 1993/2022 (50.8%, The Roots, hogshead, 223 bottles)

Old Rhosdhu 29 yo 1993/2022 (50.8%, The Roots, hogshead, 223 bottles) Four stars
Wasn’t it Debbie Harry on the label? Colour: gold. Nose: there’s more fudge, cappuccino, butterscotch, and praline… In short, the cask was more active, leaning towards ‘bourbon’. Lovely touches of sweet mint in the background, along with the expected bananas and some meadow honey, then a faintly rooty note of celeriac. A very pretty nose. With water: it gains liveliness, with fresh mint and rhubarb shining through. Mouth (neat): livelier and more taut, closer in style to the 1994. Green apples, underripe bananas, lemon, and then yellow fruits like peaches and melons. With water: careful with the water, as it brings out notes of perfume and rose syrup. Otherwise, it remains delightfully fresh and fruity, with lovely, crisp green apples of all shapes and sizes. Finish: medium in length, fresh, elegant, with a faint hint of pastis this time. Comments: very close to the 1994, with not quite enough difference to merit a separate score.
SGP:551 - 87 points.

Next Old Rhosdhu session, possibly in 2026.

More tasting notesCheck the index of all Old Rhosdhu we've tasted so far

 

January 23, 2025


Whiskyfun

A small collection of independent Mortlachs, second part

The 15-year-old 1969 from G&M really floored us yesterday—we’ve barely recovered. But that’s not stopping us from tasting a few more Mortlachs, still in ascending age order…

 

 

Mortlach 16 yo 2007/2024 (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice, bourbon hogshead, Summer 2024)

Mortlach 16 yo 2007/2024 (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice, bourbon hogshead, Summer 2024) Four stars and a half
It’s worth noting that the labels for this series are much more classic—and perhaps more aesthetically pleasing—than those of other Decadent Drinks series (SpongeLand and the like). Colour: white wine. Nose: there’s that chalky, lightly yeasty fruitiness reminiscent of the best natural wines that are so fashionable these days. Apples, of course, greengages, redcurrants, rhubarb, even watermelon… A touch of wax and custard wraps it all up, though that’s purely cosmetic. A tiny hint of ham emerges at last, very subtle—it’s not really one of those meaty Mortlachs. Perhaps a small lovage leaf. Mouth: very Mortlachian, without sherry—meaning fatty, oily, fairly waxy too, then with the usual apples and plums, with a touch of natural Champagne this time again (more blanc de noirs in style). Finish: long, fruity, and still quite rich, with a slight peppery touch. Comments: very good, in the spirit of yesterday’s DL bottling. The distillate—and likely the restricted ‘copper contact’—sings in a deep voice.
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Mortlach 26 yo 1997/2023 ‘Adversum’ (52.2%, Vintage Bottlers, 1st fill Château Lafite, cask #187207, 120 bottles)

Mortlach 26 yo 1997/2023 ‘Adversum’ (52.2%, Vintage Bottlers, 1st fill Château Lafite, cask #187207, 120 bottles) Four stars and a half
One of the recurring questions with these ‘first fill’ casks from prestigious wines like Lafite is whether they’re simply first used for whisky or if they come directly from the château, where they’ve held only one vintage before usually moving on to less prestigious wineries, as is customary. Colour: amber. Nose: like a very young Bordeaux grand cru, truly, and I regret to inform you that we adore it. So, even if philosophically we might not approve of such a mix, in practice, we find the nose superb. There, I said it. Black cherry clafoutis, gentle liquorice, prunes in Armagnac. The worst part? Lafite-Rothschild indeed has its own Armagnac, a stunning ‘Vieille Réserve’ they’ve been offering for years. We’ll open one of those someday. In short, I must admit that I find this improbable nose magnificent. Perhaps does big Mortlach pair surprisingly well with big Pauillac. With water: glue notes emerge—likely from the nearly new French oak—followed by menthol toffee. Mouth (neat): we won’t deny ourselves the pleasure. While it’s slightly less immediate than the nose, it remains beautiful, with young Cabernet-like bell peppers adding a green edge that complements the meaty and oily malt. With water: a lively battle, as pepper asserts its dominance. Wild raspberry and cherry jam follow. Finish: long, very cherry-forward, with notes of roasted malt and chocolate. Comments: it’s extremely winey, but for once, we’re all for it. After all, who doesn’t love Lafite? Or Mortlach?
SGP:571 - 88 points.

Mortlach 1992/2022 (44.2%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS22043, 259 bottles)

Mortlach 1992/2022 (44.2%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS22043, 259 bottles) Four stars and a half
What a series these ‘rare casks’ are, truly remarkable. And for once, a bottler uses the word ‘rare’ with proper justification… Colour: bronze gold. Nose: great fun, this comes from a ‘deviant’ cask, meaning you feel something unusual has occurred—though that doesn’t mean it’s not delightful. Quite the opposite here, as finding rye, gingerbread, speculoos, almond milk, putty, and mint liqueur in an old Mortlach is… an excellent surprise. In short, this is an already rare Mortlach made even rarer. You do wonder what happened to it tough—perhaps a nail? A patch? A valinch or copperdog accidentally fell in? Mouth: blood oranges, earthy tones, dark tobacco, roasted pistachios, then what could very well stem from the fresh distillate—grilled bacon and beef broth. All quite mysterious, but very enjoyable. Finish: honey-glazed ham, tobacco, and dark nougat. Plenty of cloves, rosemary, and pine resin sweets in the aftertaste. Comments: oh, if only this entertaining old Mortlach could talk…
SGP:562 - 88 points.

Mortlach 32 yo 1991/2023 (54.1%, Signatory Vintage, 35th Anniversary, 1st fill sherry butt, cask #4241, 580 bottles)

Mortlach 32 yo 1991/2023 (54.1%, Signatory Vintage, 35th Anniversary, 1st fill sherry butt, cask #4241, 580 bottles) Five stars
I had saved this gem for a special occasion. What kind of occasion, you ask? Well, to paraphrase Hester Brown, having a Mortlach like this in one’s collection is a special occasion in itself. Colour: gold. Nose: ah, ferns, wisteria, lily of the valley, Alsatian orange biscuits (why not?), cassata, orange blossom, sultanas, then a touch of ham fat and beeswax… This is lofty, complex, and truly perfect. Whiffs of an old wine cellar. With water: amusingly, it tightens up a little with notes of furniture polish, linseed oil, plasticine, absinthe, and walnut oil. No doubt the sherry influence—this walnut oil note. Mouth (neat): magnificent, with pine and orange, buds and peels, and that signature fattiness still intact after all these years. With water: resinous elements take centre stage, yet beautifully so, in the style of an old Chartreuse. Amen. Finish: long, with more fruitiness re-emerging, shaped by the cask but in no way intrusive—on the contrary. A mentholated tobacco note lingers in the aftertaste, or as Gainsbourg might have said, "Kool au Menthol." Comments: what a shame—we polished off all the 1969 G&M yesterday, or we could have compared them. S., you amateur!
SGP:561 - 91 points.

We'll stop here. Adios for now, Beast of Dufftown.

More tasting notesCheck the index of all Mortlach we've tasted so far

 

January 22, 2025


Whiskyfun

A small collection of independent Mortlach

Mortlach

Dufftown's Mortlach Distillery in 2012 (WF Archive)

 

Mortlach has a reputation for being robust, meaty, and quite sulphurous, but of course, we’ve all tasted ones that were floral, cheerful, and as light as a summer dress (copyright Christian Dior). I think we’re going to get a lovely overview today, but to really delve into things, we’ll probably need two sessions. All the better! We’ll start with the younger ones and finish with the older ones, but regardless of vintages, bottling dates, or alcohol strengths, alright?

 

 

Mortlach 7 yo 2016/2023 (54.7%, The Duchess, Game & Wildlife, matured in PX quarter cask, cask #216A, 189 bottles)

Mortlach 7 yo 2016/2023 (54.7%, The Duchess, Game & Wildlife, matured in PX quarter cask, cask #216A, 189 bottles) Three stars and a half
189 bottles at C/S from a quarter cask, that’s no mean feat. Colour: gold. Nose: the fact is that all these little dried raisins suit Mortlach well, creating a profile not too far removed from the legendary Flora & Fauna series through which many enthusiasts first discovered Mortlach. A lightly earthy fruitcake, some pipe tobacco, a touch of Ovaltine, Bündnerfleisch, hints of bay leaf, and new leather… With water: the leather moves to the fore. Mouth (neat): toffee, leather, tobacco, Pepsi, chicory, chocolate, and honeyed raisins. With water: it relaxes, becoming lighter, with a touch of sulphur and bitter oranges making a gentle appearance. Finish: long, leaning more on dried fruits, pepper, and clove. Comments: a lively little beast, firmly marked by the sherry.
SGP:561 - 84 points.

We're going to taste some that are much more 'natural'...

Mortlach 9 yo 2013/2023 (58.4%, Hogshead Import, refill hogshead, 133 bottles)

Mortlach 9 yo 2013/2023 (58.4%, Hogshead Import, refill hogshead, 133 bottles) Four stars
I don’t think one could get much closer to the distillate, given the colour. Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: an explosion of all sorts of redcurrants, cranberries, gooseberries, and pink grapefruit. We’re far removed from boar terrine doused in gravy and pipe tobacco (what?). With water: chalk, saltpetre, and shards of slate. It’s indeed ultra-distillate-driven. Mouth (neat): once again, a fruity explosion (two-thirds apples, one-third grapefruit) followed by pear eau-de-vie and a hint of ginger tonic. It almost tickles the tongue. With water: chalk makes a comeback, along with a few exotic fruits, especially lychees, which add a muscat-like character. Finish: fairly long, very fruity, almost like an eau-de-vie. Comments: I think this would be delightful for making sorbets (lemon, apple) with a splash.
SGP:641 - 86 points.

Mortlach 11 yo 1998/2010 (46%, Hart Bros., Finest Collection, bourbon cask)

Mortlach 11 yo 1998/2010 (46%, Hart Bros., Finest Collection, bourbon cask) Four stars
You don’t see too many of these Hart Bros. bottlings around anymore, do you? Colour: white wine. Nose: we’re very close to barley, bread, porridge, oatcakes… The sulphury side of the distillate (nothing to do with the burnt sulphur used in wine casks to prevent spoilage) is quite prominent and very appealing. Lemon and damp chalk. Mouth: porridge, fizzy aspirin, a chalky sensation, and lemon juice. Perfect for a champion’s breakfast! Finish: fairly long, still very chalky, with a hint of acidity (again, lemon) and the porridge (with a splash) lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: it’s great fun to taste these whiskies without sherry or any other wine influence, especially as the bourbon barrel seems to have been rather lazy. Or tired. We’re close to the pure vibration of the distillate.
SGP:451 - 86 points.

Mortlach 12 yo 2011/2023 (48.4%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, refill hogshead, cask # DL 17756, 361 bottles)

Mortlach 12 yo 2011/2023 (48.4%, Douglas Laing, Old Particular, refill hogshead, cask # DL 17756, 361 bottles) Four stars and a half
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: apple juice, chalk, bread dough, lemon juice, porridge, and vanilla. I find it perfect, though it’s hardly surprising. Water isn’t necessary. Mouth: very good, perhaps not overly complex and slightly less fruity than expected, but this extremely chalky and lightly yeasty profile reminds us of great Champagnes, which is utterly delightful. White peaches then steal the show. Finish: the same. Comments: excellent class from this distillate, a perfect young Mortlach by DL, ideal to mix with sparkling water for a lovely ‘Champagne.’ Well, I suppose the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin Champagne will have my head for this—I’d better stay away from Wine Paris in February. Just kidding, I’ll be in Andalusia hunting manzanilla añada anyway.
SGP:551 - 88 points.

Mortlach 15 yo 2008/2023 (52.4%, Whiskyjace, Art Edition No.6, oloroso hogshead)

Mortlach 15 yo 2008/2023 (52.4%, Whiskyjace, Art Edition No.6, oloroso hogshead) Four stars
Much love for this label! As we’ve always said on Whiskyfun, ‘Art, not Ads!’ Colour: gold. Nose: everything here is about balance, perfectly poised between the sherry-soaked Mortlachs and those left entirely bare, as nature intended (what?). Lovely notes of walnuts, hay, and tobacco, joined by apples, plums, and that signature earthy, chalky side. Altogether, we’re 100% in the countryside. With water: moves more towards rustic farmhouse cider. Mouth (neat): rather lively and spicy, with a pleasant bitterness—those walnuts again, a demitasse spoonful of mustard sauce, leather, and then apples returning. The sherry-distillate balance is well maintained without straying into redcurrant territory. With water: water works beautifully; it’s an excellent swimmer, even though the sherry retains a bit of the upper hand. Finish: apples, tobacco, walnuts, and just a drop of mustard. Comments: absolutely superb. Oh, and they really should offer large-format prints of those labels—if the rights allow.
SGP:551 - 87 points.

Mortlach 15 yo 2008/2023 (51.2%, The First Editions for HNWS Taiwan, oloroso quarter cask, cask #HL19853, 130 bottles)

Mortlach 15 yo 2008/2023 (51.2%, The First Editions for HNWS Taiwan, oloroso quarter cask, cask #HL19853, 130 bottles) Four stars and a half
Glad to be back in Taiwan. Colour: deep gold. Nose: this feels like a more modern Mortlach, with hints of new wood, cedar, and thuja, along with traces of glue, butterscotch, and then the expected old walnuts (no reference to any French politicians at this stage) and apples. With water: autumn leaves, mushrooms, and humus—all of this adding even more depth. It works perfectly. Mouth (neat): absolutely faultless. Earth, tobacco, dried fruits, apples, gentle spices, and walnuts, all underpinned by some assertive citrus notes that maintain the freshness of the profile. With water: massive waves of butterscotch! Typical of relatively new wood. Finish: long, with even more citrus, a touch of garam masala, and a faint Cognac-like note. Comments: what can I say, it’s clear this is no accident. Absolutely excellent—Mortlach really is a superb base. Long live the Wee Witchie! (still no connection to French politicians—well, maybe…).
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Mortlach 15 yo 2008/2024 (50.8%, The Whisky Cask, sherry)

Mortlach 15 yo 2008/2024 (50.8%, The Whisky Cask, sherry) Three stars and a half
Some rather old-school bottlings at The Whisky (or Rum) Cask, always very good as far as I can remember. Colour: amber. Nose: classic sherry—earthy, with walnuts, old apples, and butterscotch, followed by broom flowers and light notes of anise and liquorice. This is the first Mortlach we’re tasting today with a distinctly floral side. Of course, we love that. With water: much the same. Also bag of old walnuts, but also a hint of coal gas. Mouth (neat): a touch of gunpowder and quite prominent pepper at first, gradually giving way to leather and tobacco, with even slightly tangy and salty touches. Well then… With water: earth, truffles, tobacco, and artichokes. Finish: long, now firmly on cooked vegetables. Roasted aubergines, to be precise. Comments: a magical nose and a palate that’s perhaps less, let’s say, consensual. It takes all sorts to make a world.
SGP:361 - 84 points.

Since we're at the 15-year-olds, let's have one last one, much older... Because here, it's Whiskyfun.

Mortlach 15 yo 1969 (56.3%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, for Germany, 75cl, +/-1985)

Mortlach 15 yo 1969 (56.3%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, for Germany, 75cl, +/-1985) Five stars
Old Banner Label, as we used to call it. Connoisseurs Choice at cask strength was very rare back then and has since become much less so. That said—sugar! Mortlach stopped using its own floor maltings in 1968. Just one year off; talk about bad luck... Colour: gold. Nose: the upper echelons, as they say. Remarkably, it’s striking how much it reminds me of the glorious 32-year-old 1971 official bottling from 2004. An interstellar level of fruitiness, with baked fruits (always apple, plus honeyed mirabelle and Sauternes—pretty much the same thing), along with chutneys and jams. Fig jam, in particular, stands out prominently. With water: this must have been malted at Ord—you can genuinely smell it (honestly!). Notes of olive oil, heaps of pollen, and beeswax. Mouth (neat): exceptionally firm, fruity, and liquorice-laden. Liquorice is a common whisky flavour, but here, it’s a true diamond. Tons of various honeys, waxes, and forgotten liqueurs… With water: the texture is unbelievable—you almost need a little spoon to scoop it out of the glass. I’m only slightly exaggerating. In short, it’s oily and fruity—almost like those intensely fruity olive oils that are so trendy these days. Finish: not overly long, but long enough—you get the idea. Honey, olive oil, ripe apples, and oranges lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: what a bottle!
SGP:651 - 93 points.

We'll stop here for now and pick it up again tomorrow; we've still got quite a few Mortlachs to taste...

(Thank you, KC)

More tasting notesCheck the index of all Mortlach we've tasted so far

 

January 20, 2025


Whiskyfun

The world is ours once again
This time, we will once more set off from France – although the location of Château WF also allows us to easily depart from Switzerland or Germany – and then we’ll go on to visit Spain, Italy, Germany, Denmark, and Korea…

 

 

Ninkasi 2018/2024 ‘LAB 007’ (51.8%, OB, France, Tokay de Hongrie, cask #101, 162 bottles)

Ninkasi 2018/2024 ‘LAB 007’ (51.8%, OB, France, Tokay de Hongrie, cask #101, 162 bottles) Three stars
We are near Lyon, in Tarare, where this young whisky was fully matured in Tokay casks, therefore in sweet wine wood. They are now also experimenting with vacuum distillation, a technique that seems to be attracting more and more interest, but this whisky appears to have been distilled in Charentais alembic stills. We had enjoyed LAB 005 two years ago (WF 85). Colour: full copper. Nose: the Tokay is intensely present and even dominant, bringing to mind the universe of an ultra-fortified sweet wine. The good news is that the malt feels light and allows itself to blend in without resistance. Notes of toasted bread, butterscotch, overripe peaches, glue, and beeswax polish. With water: little changes, though faint hints of an old wine cellar emerge. Mouth (neat): somewhat ‘premix’, with the bitterness of European oak (Hungarian?) and slightly muscat-like, sweet notes of Tokay. It’s very distinctive. With water: it leans towards bitters, mustard, Greek-style pickled mushrooms, bitter beer, old walnuts, and amontillado. Finish: fairly long, prolonging the palate. Comments: some elements are reminiscent of BM. Very difficult to score—I feel LAB 005 was more approachable. Take this with a grain of salt.
SGP:461 - 82 points.

Sherishòr 12 yo (54%, OB, Spain, ‘pure malt whisky’, 1400 bottles, +/-2024)

Sherishòr 12 yo (54%, OB, Spain, ‘pure malt whisky’, 1400 bottles, +/-2024) Four stars
This is actually 3-year-old ex-bourbon Scottish malt, further matured for 9 years in Andalusia in genuine bodega oloroso sherry casks, some 50 years old. These are real solera butts, not the bespoke seasoned casks that almost everyone else uses. We had already tasted a 45% ABV version, which we liked immensely (WF 87). Colour: amber. Nose: exactly as expected, meaning absolutely brimming with roasted nuts, plump raisins, and dates coated in dark and milk chocolate. Then a touch of Mon Chéri (if I may). With water: more elegant, with English pipe tobaccos, black teas, and mocha. Mouth (neat): quite a lot of oak, suggesting these butts weren’t all that ancient, but the oloroso character is full-on. Bags of dark chocolate, old walnuts, black pepper, cloves, and pipe tobacco. It’s almost like a Jerez brandy, though without the sweetness of 99% of them. With water: it remains dry and perhaps a touch rough due to massive spices—plenty of pepper. Finish: long and very spicy. 90% dark chocolate and heavily roasted coffee beans. Comments: I wouldn’t say it’s ‘better’ than the 45% ABV version; in fact, it feels drier, but it’s still excellent. A true journey to Jerez, straight from your glass.
SGP:561 - 87 points.

Right then, off to Italy…

Exmu 2021/2024 (49.5%, OB, Italy, for Whisky Milano, first fill sherry rundlet, cask #20100-004, 150 bottles)

Exmu 2021/2024 (49.5%, OB, Italy, for Whisky Milano, first fill sherry rundlet, cask #20100-004, 150 bottles) Four stars
This comes from Sardinia, and the cask was a rundlet. Remember Springbank’s ‘Rundlets & Kilderkins’ series? Apparently, a rundlet is an archaic (apologies, Sardinia) English measure equivalent to 15 imperial gallons. I’ll add that we loved last year’s Exmu ex-bourbon version (Spirit of Sardinia 45.5%, WF 88). Colour: dark amber. Nose: excuse me? What is this? It opens with bold wafts of geranium, tomato bush, prickly pear, and cherry-flavoured pipe tobacco (as far as I recall), then moves towards prunes and juniper. Very unusual. With water: chocolate and whisky truffles. Mouth (neat): Mon Chéri gets mentioned yet again (no product placement here, though perhaps we should), followed by coriander seeds and an avalanche of blackcurrants and sloe berries. Hints of wood glue and kirsch with water. Okay, yes, it does evoke wood glue. Finish: long, with black tobacco, blackberry jam, juniper, and a touch of marmalade at the end. Comments: twists and turns, but this is quite spectacularly… Andalusian. Apologies again. After all, Sardinia does seem like the part of Italy closest to Jerez.
SGP:661 - 86 points.

Since we're on the topic of slightly crazy things...

St. Kilian ‘Whisky Solera’ (57.6%, OB, Germany, 683 bottles, 2024)

St. Kilian ‘Whisky Solera’ (57.6%, OB, Germany, 683 bottles, 2024) Four stars
We couldn’t find a photo of this very recent release, but we didn’t want to delay things, so we used a photo of a previous version—hope that’s fine? Colour: deep gold. Nose: sherry, peat, and candied citrus, followed by a touch of burnt tyre and even hints of inner tube whiffs. Lovely, especially since it’s all very well-integrated, with no single aroma dominating, not even the burnt rubber. Is that the solera effect? With water: notes of stable, horse saddle, barnyard… we adore it! Mouth (neat): this is truly well done, with that same sense of ‘oneness,’ even if it’s rather intense. Ginger, nutmeg, honey, peat, mandarin, liquorice, wormwood, lemon… a proper little orchestra. With water: as usual, the wood spices come forward a bit more. Finish: long, with peppered marmalade, smoke, and a faint saltiness. Comments: I think French distillers should add a touch of madness and genuine uniqueness to their concepts and go for less of the ‘serious’ approach—they could take inspiration from St. Kilian (though I’m not sure Bud Spencer and Terence Hill would resonate in France, to be fair).
SGP:566 - 86 points.

St. Kilian 2017/2024 (58.8%, The Whisky Jury, Germany, first fill oloroso, cask #1535, 315 bottles)

St. Kilian 2017/2024 (58.8%, The Whisky Jury, Germany, first fill oloroso, cask #1535, 315 bottles) Four stars and a half
Independent bottlings of whiskies from ‘world’ distilleries are quite rare, and when they happen, it’s always a good sign. The Jury had already selected a St. Kilian 2019/2023 that I found superb (WF 88). Colour: gold. Nose: very Islay-like, heavily peated, and rather fresh, with the sherry’s walnuts lurking in the background. That said, without water, it’s not very complex—but that’s perfectly fine. So… With water: once again, water works wonders, unveiling citrus fruits and medicinal touches (camphor, iodine, ointments, eucalyptus, etc.). Mouth (neat): bold, lemony, citrusy overall, and very peaty. But avoid wrong turns—they might almost kill you (I just tried—gasp!). (long pause…) With water: pronounced ginger and cinnamon notes bring out the wood, but there’s also buttery orange cream, and then… and even lemon tart. And then… Finish: very long, with fairly typical signs of youth. Citrus, spices, peat, and prominent ginger. Comments: I’d say it’s on the same level as the 2019/2023… but rather less entertaining than the official solera.
SGP:567 - 88 points.

Thy (48%, OB, Denmark, single malt, 2024)

Thy (48%, OB, Denmark, single malt, 2024) Four stars and a half
This is the ‘core’ single malt from the Danish distillery. So far, we’ve only tasted one Thy, a beautiful indie version by BB&R (see comment about indie bottlers above). Moreover, this is an ‘own-estate’ malt and organic too, with one of the barleys being ‘Babushka,’ which can’t help but remind us of Kate Bush, can it? Bottled in December 2024, so it’s very fresh. Colour: gold. Nose: it’s indeed very fresh, lively, maritime, elegant, delicately smoky, with apples, lemon, seaweed, small oysters, then green melon and jasmine. One raisin and one fresh walnut. Beautiful vivacity. Mouth: truly distinctive, still fresh, fairly powerful, starting with blueberry (quite unusual), then blood oranges, fresh walnuts, liquorice, and smoky citrus (if such a thing existed). You almost want to add water, though that doesn’t seem essential… With water: a touch more towards oranges and fresh ginger. Finish: long, always fresh, fruity, joyful, and distinctive. A hint of violet, strawberry (from peat—yep), with a few ashes in the aftertaste. Comments: I really like this a lot—it has style! There are plenty more Thys to taste, and we’re looking forward to it.
SGP:653 - 88 points.

Caogad Tri 2020/2024 (61.9%, Whisky Werk, Germany, virgin oak, cask #3)

Caogad Tri 2020/2024 (61.9%, Whisky Werk, Germany, virgin oak, cask #3) Four stars
This is whisky distilled to Whisky Werk’s specifications in a German distillery that isn’t mentioned, there’s a sheer number of distilleries in Germany. It’s interesting to see distilleries working to order like this, rather than just selling fillings or mature casks. Colour: reddish amber. Nose: earthy tones, cakes (banana and pear), and pumpernickel. At this strength, water is quickly added… With water: a true avalanche of blood oranges and a small piece of panettone; small but bursting with orange blossom. Mouth (neat): orange marmalade with cinnamon and honey, plus a touch of molasses. Lovely oily texture, no doubt enhanced by the virgin oak. With water: orange and ginger cake with a hint of turmeric. Finish: long and rich, on marmalade, pepper, and ginger. Comments: lots of orange in this very well-made German malt, and since there’s pumpernickel too, and considering it’s perhaps no longer a great idea to drink proper orange juice for breakfast (according to the press), let’s replace it all with a small glass of this delightful Caogad Tri right tomorrow morning. Maybe not…
SGP:651 - 86 points.

Since we're in Goethe's country...

The Nine Springs (46%, OB, Germany, ex-bourbon, cask #1128)

The Nine Springs (46%, OB, Germany, ex-bourbon, cask #1128) Three stars and a half
We are in Worbis, not far from Göttingen, between Magdeburg and Kassel, you see? Colour: white wine. Nose: very young, very fruity, with pear, apple, pineapple, vanilla, barley syrup, and a fine, light woodiness. All is well. Mouth: incredibly fruity, almost like barley eau-de-vie. Apples, pears, and hints of violet and liquorice. Finish: medium length, with a fruity profile dominated by pear—but we love pear. Comments: fresh, young, fruity, serious, and without a single flaw.
SGP:641 - 83 points.

We’ll finish with Korea…

Craftbros 2023/2024 ‘IPA Newborn’ (58.3%, OB, South Korea, double matured, first fill oloroso hogshead and new American oak cask, 979 bottles)

Craftbros 2023/2024 ‘IPA Newborn’ (58.3%, OB, South Korea, double matured, first fill oloroso hogshead and new American oak cask, 979 bottles) Four stars
Managing a double maturation in just a year is impressive! Craft brewers at the helm, based in Gimpo, northwest of Seoul. I’m not sure where the IPA comes into play here, but does it really matter? This is the third Korean distillery we’ve tried, though we still have a soft spot for the first Kimchangsoo. Colour: gold. Nose: explosively fruity, reminiscent of the first Sierra Nevada IPA I drank in the 1990s. Moving on… It smells intensely hoppy, loaded with pink grapefruit, violet liqueur, and lychees. I must admit, I quite like it, even if it’s miles away from traditional whisky profiles. With water: guava, grapefruit, mango, and honey cocktail vibes. Mouth (neat): somewhere between pure rye, buckwheat, rice whisky, and indeed a triple IPA. The fruitiness is ballistic—mango and grapefruit. With water: leaning more towards zesty flavours, a touch of gin, and even more unleashed grapefruit. Finish: long and extravagantly fruity throughout. Pear and rosewater. Comments: I don’t love it as a whisky, but I adore it as an eau-de-vie. What to do with that? Also, was the wash hopped? A purely indicative score, it’s not 3, so not whisky anyway.
SGP:930 - 85 points.

More tasting notesCheck the index of all whiskies of the world we've tasted so far

 

January 19, 2025


Whiskyfun

  A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace!

 

 

Creams of the crops, armagnac is back on WF

After indulging in a variety of rums, both aged and white, it’s time to savour some rather recent great Armagnacs again, starting with an amusing little digestif...

A lovely poster for the 2023 Armagnac Festival in Labastide d'Armagnac, in the Landes. "All for one and Armagnac for all!" say the Three Musketeers, who, as I'm sure you know, were actually four.