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Hi, you're in the Archives, February 2025 - Part 1 |
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February 14, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today Millburn
(Valentine's Day special, ha) |
It's certainly no longer very common for us to come across Millburn series that we haven’t yet tasted, even if it’s just two of them like today. It’s true that we’ve always found Inverness’s third (but historically first) distillery somewhat chaotic, and we’ve sometimes wondered if enthusiasts only sought out its bottles because it closed in 1985 (and was partly demolished in 1988), following in the footsteps of its two "sisters" Glen Albyn and Glen Mhor (1983), which tend to have a higher reputation over at WF. That said, we do have friends who still hold a very high opinion of Millburn’s whiskies—it has to be said. |

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Millburn 12 yo 1983/1996 (59.1%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection) 
An incredible series at the time, which could house anything from pure wonders like dazzling young Port Ellens or St. Magdalenes to offerings much closer to kerosene, as indeed with certain Millburns we’ve had the pleasure of tasting. Let’s see what this one has to say; we’ll ensure it gets ample breathing time before proceeding… Colour: white wine. Nose: it kicks off with a surprising combination of mashed banana and soot, accompanied by metal polish and foliage in the background. There’s almost a greasy side (think engine oil, but gently so), followed by a touch of potpourri. Earth, rubble. With water: it’s truly austere—you’re left with the impression of mowing the lawn with an old motorised mower spluttering a bit of oil. You get the picture? Mouth (neat): quite bitter, very herbal, and vastly different from what the nose had promised. Incredibly rough! It’s like biting into a bitter orange—peel and all. Everyone’s done that at least once in Andalusia (guilty as charged). With water: there’s a faint glimmer of fruity hope, centred around orange ice cream with cinnamon. Otherwise, it remains extremely austere. Finish: long, with the orange taking centre stage, phew. Comments: I can’t shake the feeling that quite a few older malts were ultimately saved by oranges, not just Dalmore. Ha.
SGP:361 - 80 points. |

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Millburn 1981/2006 (46%, Mackillop’s Choice, sherry wood, cask #355) 
With a charming wee typo, it claims this was distilled in the Speyside region. Well, after Forres, and last time I checked, it’s no longer Speyside, but let’s just say it’s all Speyside anyway—except Islay, n’est-ce pas. Sister cask #353, bottled at cask strength by Mackillop’s, wasn’t half bad three years ago (WF 88). Colour: gold. Nose: more buttery, yet still echoing that impression of mashed banana, with additional yellow fruits such as pears and plums. There’s also a lovely herbal citrus liqueur vibe, somewhere between Bénédictine and Mandarine Napoléon. Then it evolves into yellow Chartreuse and candied citron, in the most exquisite way. Gorgeous beeswax, truly beautiful—civilised a thousand times over compared to the Cadenhead. Mouth: oh, absolutely! These citrus notes wrapped in beeswax and honey are superb. There’s a hint of Earl Grey tea but also a livelier, sharper citrusy edge, closer to lemon. As is often the case, the 46% strength works perfectly. Finish: long, becoming a tad more herbal now. Or wait, there’s a touch of myrtle liqueur too. Comments: a stunning Millburn, and it’s not impossible that its two decades in the bottle have softened it slightly—thankfully, for the better as is often the case.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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February 13, 2025 |
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A few Macduff. Twelve, actually |
We have some recent independent Macduff bottlings, so let’s also take the opportunity to taste some older versions from the WF library. Just a reminder: Macduff is absolutely not a blend or a teaspooning of Macallan and Miltonduff. Sometimes, you just have to try and have a laugh with a few corny jokes, right? … I should add that today we won’t have any other malts synonymous with Macduff, such as The Deveron/Glen Deveron. |

Macduff Distillery (Anne Burgess, geograph) |

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Macduff 12 yo 2011/2024 (48%, The Single Malts of Scotland, Reserve Casks, Elixir Distillers, US exclusive, sherry butts, 3 casks)
Colour: light gold. Nose: quite a bit of flint and slightly tart apple, damp earth, strawberry yoghurt, then increasingly more passion fruit, though not all excessively ripe, but all softened by a touch of barley syrup. It’s coherent and rather refreshing on the nose, which we appreciate. Mouth: malty and sweet, with slightly more pronounced sherry on the palate (the usual walnut cakes), then becoming increasingly herbal and lemony, with a tension that makes it rather lively and chiselled – again, we like that. Finish: fairly long, with the return of tart little apples, though also some acacia honey to soothe it all. Comments: a lovely assemblage which, all in all, also displays a youthful Calvados-like side.
SGP:561 - 85 points. |

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Macduff 12 yo 2009/2021 (55.3%, Timeless & Tasty, Women of Hong Kong, 7th Anniversary Whiskies & More, barrel) 
A lovely label highlighting the comic book culture of Hong Kong and neighbouring countries. Colour: white wine. Nose: naturally close to the TSMOS, just a little rounder, likely due to a more active barrel. Wild apples, damp chalk, kiwi, lemon tart (with meringue, as always) and a touch of mango sorbet. Nothing to fault. With water: the chalk stands out, along with hints of fresh cement and plaster, much like a very young white Burgundy. Mouth (neat): very fruity, with similar notes, rather tight and refreshing. A touch of pink pepper. With water: this time it rounds out a little, becoming more indulgent. Finish: vanilla cream and lemon, with ripe mango lingering on the back palate. Comments: great aromatic clarity, simple yet very, very good.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
These Macduffs may not have the character of a Springbank or a Brora, but they are lovely, very classic malts. Let’s carry on… |

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Macduff 16 yo 2007 (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 100 Proof Exceptional Cask, 1st fill oloroso butt) 
Colour: gold. Nose: wafts of natural rubber, much like in similar Macduffs, though here it then moves towards leather, menthol and cigars, followed by roasted almonds and very dark chocolate. A touch of thyme honey. With water: hints of roasted chestnuts and still a touch of natural rubber. Mouth (neat): very rich, creamy, softer and fruitier than on the nose, mainly on orange marmalade. Then the return of pipe tobacco, chocolate-coated prunes, eau-de-vie and Corinth raisins. With water: even softer, more honeyed, almost liqueur-like. It almost leans more towards moscatel than oloroso, yet remains well-balanced. Finish: long, still jammy, with those unmistakable prunes making a return, along with a hint of coriander seed. Tobacco lingers on the aftertaste. Comments: the counterpart to the lovely Hong Kong bottling.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |

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Macduff 2007/2019 (46%, Scyfion Choice, Ukraine, Apatsagi Pinot Noir finish, 160 bottles) 
It is with sadness that we shall call this one a ‘pre-war Ukrainian bottling’. Apatsagi Pinot Noir (apologies for the missing accents) is a renowned Hungarian wine of great reputation. But beware, Pinot Noir can be very, very invasive in whisky… Apparently, ‘apatsagi’ means ‘abbey’. Colour: gold. Nose: no wild hare’s belly, blackcurrants, rampant cherries, civet cat or woodland mushrooms—this is much rounder, honeyed, malty, with fudge, butter caramel, and even peanut butter… Mouth: initial hints of strawberry sweets, then increasingly towards candied cherries (there we go!) and poached pear in red wine, with touches of juniper and a faint trace of rubber. But the malt holds its ground. Finish: good length, on similar notes. Blood oranges and unmistakable red wine in the aftertaste. Comments: one might guess this came from Hungarian oak (Quercus frainetto). In any case, a superb and ‘different’ Macduff—long live Ukraine!
SGP:641 - 85 points. |

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Macduff 8 yo 2012/2020 (58%, Asta Morris, sherry cask, cask #AM020, 233 bottles) 
The frog returns! Strangely enough, we’ve already tasted its older cousin, a 9 yo 2012/2021. What chaos over at WF! Colour: light gold. Nose: heavy on praline, maple syrup, nougat, and toffee, with a touch of dark beer and stock. Think carbonnade flamande! (a top-tier Belgian dish we love, right after shrimp croquettes, of course). With water: fully towards malt, apples, prunes, wax, and bread dough… Mouth (neat): peppery and spicy power after a softer arrival, with caramel and even milk chocolate. Bitter oranges, turmeric, a saline touch. With water: beautifully balanced, everything clicks, and the water nearly works miracles on this young Macduff. Finish: long, delightfully herbal, on bitter beer and then honey. Comments: a lovely little beast, I really like it. Looking back at my notes for its older cousin, the younger one seems better. Long live youth! (come on, S.)
SGP:651 - 87 points. |

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Macduff 1990/2009 (53.1%, Malts of Scotland, sherry hogshead, cask #1423, 124 bottles) 
Yes, very late once again. Colour: amber. Nose: a rather surprising touch of varnish and bourbon at first, then walnut and honey cake with plenty of dried raisins of various kinds. With water: lovely old Madeira notes. Mouth (neat): rich, slightly herbal (chartreuse, absinthe), yet above all very honeyed and peppery. With water: excellent. Magnificent peppers, broths, orange zest, chen-pi, black tea with salted butter (granted, an acquired taste) … Finish: long, very elegant. Fig jam, teriyaki, dried raisins, beef jerky, Japanese sweet sauce (there must be a name for it!). Comments: this one comes as a bit of a surprise. It’s not impossible there’s already some positive OBE in play—it certainly feels like it.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
You may have noticed that while independent bottlers write the name as either Macduff or MacDuff, we have chosen the simplest version. |

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Macduff 11 yo 2000/2012 (48.2%, Archives, refill sherry, cask #5803, 90 bottles)
Here too, there may already be some OBE. You’ll have noticed, this was still the pre-animal label. Colour: light gold. Nose: Nescafé and roasted malt, a touch of yeast, mead, then some black earth. Subtle notes of leather and, well, Marlboro. While lit and smoked cigarettes have made no sense to us for about twenty years, but the aroma of a freshly opened pack remains absolutely extraordinary. Mouth: I think there’s a bit of OBE. It’s tertiary, yeasty, spicy, veering towards rum and tequila, but also old Banyuls or any rancio-style wine from Catalonia, whether French, or Spanish… Very elegant. Finish: long, on freshly ground pepper, orange peel, and linden honey. A touch of old Highland Park, yes! Comments: excellent.
SGP:661 - 88 points. |
The topic of ageing and the improvement of spirits in the bottle is certainly controversial, but I am increasingly convinced that it is significant. Until now, the extraordinary quality of old bottlings simply led us to assume that one of the reasons, though not obligatorily the biggest one, was that they had improved with age in the bottle, much like eaux-de-vie stored in demijohns or stoneware. However, we never tasted them at the time they were introduced to the market—take, for example, the Laphroaigs from the 1960s and 70s.
Now that we are beginning to taste malts that we had already sampled and documented 25 or 30 years ago (how time flies!) and noticing some rather incredible improvements—particularly in the development and complexity of aromas—we are increasingly certain of this phenomenon. This is something that Silvano Samaroli had already asserted, as he had remarkable hindsight. Let’s move on… |

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Macduff 11 yo 2008/2019 (52.1%, Whisky Passion for Spirits Salon, Taiwan, octave, cask #58224) 
The Taiwanese whisky and spirits scene remains incredibly active—bravo to them all. Colour: gold. Nose: you can feel the octave boost, with sunflower and hazelnut oils, then windfallen old apples and a leafy, damp forest floor with moss and humus. Very nice. With water: it remains a well-mannered and discreet octave, with no ‘plank’ effect—more like coffee. Mouth (neat): definitely boosted now, with roasted notes and Ovaltine, layered over an already very toasted malt character. Again, a subtle earthy note (or aged Pu-erh tea) helps to balance everything. Some maraschino too. With water: no major changes. Finish: long, even maltier, with toasted notes and dark beer. That faint earthy side returns in the aftertaste. Comments: a very lovely octave.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |

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Macduff 11 yo 2000/2011 (54.8%, Whisky-Doris, refill sherry butt, 246 bottles) 
One of the coolest and most charming independent German bottlers out there. Alles immer ausgezeichnet. Colour: gold. Nose: there’s more action in this one—paint and mangoes, for instance, pine buds, rust, honey, and fresh concrete… It may seem a bit chaotic, but that’s exactly what makes it interesting here. With water: a hint of freshly cut grass and a couple of spent matches. Mouth (neat): quite a bit of gunpowder and plenty of pepper. A bit tricky, but let’s see what water does… With water: the black pepper and burnt sulphur notes remain fairly prominent, though not to the point of being a major issue. Finish: long, more honeyed, leaning towards orange liqueur. Very pleasant. Comments: a bit of a Janus whisky, but we really like it.
SGP:662 - 83 points. |

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Macduff 2000/2010 (58.7%, Reifferscheid, Romantic Rhine Collection, sherry octave, 95 bottles) 
The Remagen Bridge on the label. Eighty years later, this historical reference has likely lost some of its impact, but history enthusiasts can always look it up online. Colour: gold. Nose: similar in style to the Whisky-Doris, though the gunpowder and shoe polish notes are even more pronounced. History has embedded itself in this malt! With water: old metals and beef broth. Mouth (neat): much the same. Orange liqueur, black pepper, and truffle. With water: slightly rebalanced thanks to the orange liqueur. Finish: long, packed with shoe polish and black pepper, layered over pancake syrup and molasses. Comments: truly surprising—and as an Alsatian, tasting this one in February 2025 makes it feel even stranger. But it’s a good malt.
SGP:462 - 81 points. |
While we're at it, let’s go to Austria… |

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Macduff 12 yo 2007/2019 (47%, Single Cask Collection, bourbon hogshead, cask #11270, 374 bottles) 
Colour: white wine. Nose: back to the fruity and lighter Macduffs, which, after all, is meant to be the distillery’s style, as evidenced by the official Deverons. Apples, peaches, plums, cassata, and muesli, followed by dandelion and mullein flowers. Impeccable. Mouth: beautifully fruity, again on apples and plums, coated in wildflower honey. Lovely texture, with a touch of beeswax. Finish: medium length but wonderfully honeyed and fruity, with a faint malty touch keeping the structure in check. You know what I mean. Comments: this style is found in many young Speyside malts, provided the casks and their previous contents have left them undisturbed. Here, everything has gone like clockwork.
SGP:641 - 86 points. |
Well, let’s wrap this up with an older Macduff from a series we were very fond of back in the day… |

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Macduff 37 yo 1973/2010 (46%, Mo Or collection, bourbon hogshead, release #22, 281 bottles)
I believe this is one of the last Mo Or releases we had yet to taste. Right then, let’s put on Aladdin Sane (also from 1973) and get into it… Colour: deep gold. Nose: well, this is the winner, as expected. Of course, there’s the age, the quality of this series, but also the vintage. The early 1970s on the mainland gave us malts with a bold, complex character—almost as if the finest winemakers had collaborated with the distillers. Quite incredible, 1970-1974… Whereas on the islands, it was more the previous decade, though that’s not an absolute rule. Anyway, honeys, grand Chardonnays, waxes, precious polishes, old leathers, floral wines (think dandelion), and a quince tarte tatin. But what a ****ing nose! Where has this style gone? Mouth: oh my! Sublime white wines from all the great regions, plus floral and citrus liqueurs. The beeswax continues to frame it all with the elegance and nonchalance of a well-fed cheetah (all good, S.?). Finish: beautifully long, sublimely waxy, with notes of quince, apples, and overripe pears. Sublime chalky and medicinal hints in the background. Comments: at the time, the 50cl bottle and 46% ABV may have caused some hesitation, but personally, I now regret not having bought a case or three of this marvel. After all, I’m only fifteen years late. What a beauty.
SGP:5661 - 93 points. |
STOP—we have a little bonus! Sometimes, a new whisky arrives just as we’ve wrapped up a tasting from the same distillery, and if we can, we add it to the session—just like here… |

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Macduff 21 yo 2003/2024 (58%, Berry Bros. & Rudd for The Whisky Exchange, sherry butt, cask #900025, 358 bottles) 
A rather lightly marked sherry, judging by the colour—though these can sometimes be deceptive. Colour: gold. Nose: a well-balanced mix of bright citrusy fruit, a certain oiliness and weight from the distillate, and a rather subtle sherry influence that brings in walnuts and just a couple of raisins. With water: plenty of fresh bread and small aniseed biscuits, with a touch of orange blossom water and mint tea. A Moroccan feel. Mouth (neat): sharp and direct, slightly saline like a Manzanilla, then apples and pepper. With water: now it fully unfolds, with white pepper, white fruits, a few edible flowers (borage, nasturtium), and a hint of turmeric. Finish: rather long, quite taut and spicy. Ginger and Thai basil. Comments: great firmness in this Macduff, pleasantly authoritative. All in all, very much in tune with the times. Right.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
By the way, fingers crossed for our friends at Berry Bros.! Hugs! |
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February 12, 2025 |
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A little trio of Aberfeldies
Aberfeldy is one of those malt brands that now put almost their entire range through various finishings, following the widespread trend. However, be aware that when certain brands label a bottling as, for example, ‘Madeira Cask’ or ‘Mizunara Oak’, it often simply means ‘finished in said cask’. But as far as I know, Aberfeldy always specifies this on their labels—credit to them for that.
(WF Archive, 2016) |
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Aberfeldy 12 yo ‘Madeira Cask Finish’ (40%, OB, travel retail, 2023) 
One might imagine that, at the very least, travel retail finishes would be tailored to airports. Here, for instance, Funchal, naturally, or perhaps Lisbon, Faro or… er, Porto. No, forget it… Colour: gold. Nose: a few slightly dirty touches of mustard and aged walnuts—not unpleasant, in fact—dried raisins and toasted almonds, a hint of paprika, then some earthy notes. Quite pleasant. Mouth: pepper, mustard, walnut wine, a touch of burnt caramel and bitter chocolate, with a relatively powerful attack despite the low ABV. However, it quickly becomes rather prickly on the nose and turns increasingly drying, with hints of mushroom. A pity, as the combination is interesting. Finish: rather short, heavily on the Madeira, with Worcestershire sauce at this stage. Comments: one could almost use it in cooking, perhaps in a Madeira sauce. But of course! The 40% ABV is pretty low, that’s for sure, but it’s a nice drop in the end.
SGP: 461 - 80 points. |

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Aberfeldy 15 yo ‘Cadillac Sémillon Wine Cask Finish’ (43%, OB, 2023) 
I’ve noticed that many merchants assume this comes from red wine, but of course, Sémillon is a white grape and the foundation of many sweet Bordeaux whites, such as… Cadillac. There are also red Cadillacs indeed (technically from the Côtes de Bordeaux Cadillac appellation), but naturally, they should never contain Sémillon. Colour: gold. Nose: plenty of wood and toasted bread at first, which is rather charming, then mint, liquorice and a touch of eucalyptus. There are certainly the typical notes of a sweet Sémillon—dried apricots, honey, syrupy pineapple, mandarin—but they’re not particularly bold. Mouth: pure Sémillon finishes are quite rare. Sauternes are usually Sémillon + Sauvignon and sometimes Muscadelle. Here, the oak and a slight stemminess take control almost immediately, alas, and barely let go. Bitter cocoa, a few citrus notes… Quite surprising, given that Cadillac’s sweet wines are generally inexpensive (around €10 to €15), so it’s rare to see them matured in particularly active casks. Finish: of medium length. A little green pepper, a touch of bitter orange, some discordances. Comments: fairly decent, but not quite enough to make one drop everything and start singing La Donna è Mobile, in my humble opinion.
SGP: 561 - 78 points. |

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Aberfeldy 10 yo 2013/2024 (48.2%, Signatory Vintage, Small Batch Edition #10, oloroso sherry) 
They say "from Pitlochry to the world" on the label, but sometimes when you go there and look at the car number plates, you feel like Pitlochry is the world. Now the folks at Signatory really have more than a few tricks up their sleeve, offering some truly lovely whiskies at sensible prices (and a few absolute gems that are a touch pricier, mind you). Well played. Colour: deep gold. Nose: boot polish and a bag of old walnuts, an antique hunting rifle that hasn’t fired a shot in a hundred years, thyme and lime blossom infusions, then the much-anticipated parade of chocolates in all forms. Quite the spectacle! Mouth: absolutely spot on, with dark chocolate, espresso, dried raisins, peppers and chillies (not too much), maraschino and a sliver of Iberian ham. The strength is just perfect. Finish: here come the bitter oranges, hints of bitter beer, and a few sour cherries in eau-de-vie. Green pepper lingers in the very dry aftertaste. Comments: absolutely impeccable, beautifully dry and oloroso-y.
SGP: 561 - 85 points. |
Attention distillers and master blenders, a new appellation, "Médoc Blanc," has been announced in Bordeaux. This will likely mean new high-quality dry white wines, in addition to those from Graves/Pessac and the 'simple' dry Bordeaux Blancs from the great châteaux (such as Sauternes or Mouton, Cos, Lynch, Chasse-Spleen, etc.), which should be able to use this new designation in the near future. And make more of them. |
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February 11, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, very young indie Tullibardine and quite some red wine |
I really don’t know if this will last, given the massive new production capacities in Scotland, but in recent years we’ve been seeing the emergence of very, very young malts, boosted by hyperactive casks, often wine casks. Most were released as NAS (No Age Statement), particularly by the distilleries themselves, who were reluctant to give up the revenue associated with a 12- or 15-year-old age statement. However, a few brave independent bottlers didn’t hesitate to display the ages—a practice we find extremely honest and appealing. Here are two examples… |
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Tullibardine 5 yo 2015/2021 (51.7%, Silent Ambassador, Port Pipe, cask #105, 270 bottles) 
A Belgian indie bottling. I suppose if the ambassador was silent, it wasn’t a brand ambassador, was it (love you all!) Colour: somewhere between partridge eye and onion skin. Nose: much drier than expected, marked by leaves and grape stalks at first, then green pepper, before blood oranges, sour cherries, and blackcurrants make an appearance, followed by marshmallows. Also, black olives bring a faintly ‘dirty’ side, reminiscent of a dirty martini—yep. With water: tomato plants and cherry stems, plus clafoutis. Mouth (neat): rich and fruity, on cherry beer and green pepper. It’s a rather winey cocktail, but quite enjoyable. With water: more on grape stalks, grape seeds, orange peel, and beer bitters… Finish: fairly long and pleasant, with star anise, cinnamon, and even more cherries coming through. Comments: a lovely concoction, I must admit, even if it feels a bit like a super-fortified Port for malt lovers. You’re right, no point in doing things halfway.
SGP:661 - 82 points. |

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Tullibardine 7 yo 2015/2022 (64.4%, Whisky Navi, first fill Burgundy barrique, cask #656393, 255 bottles) 
This time it’s an independent bottler from South Korea, where they now also produce excellent malts… True Korean ones. From a Burgundy cask, and provided it was red wine, it should indeed exude cherries... Colour: golden with copper tones. Nose: lots of marzipan, a touch of black soap, morello cherry cake, a bit of very fruity tomato sauce, and some very ripe orange… We’re moving even further away from classic malt whisky territory, but it’s not unpleasant. With water: little change, except for a hint of rubber and the addition of Xmas cake. Mouth (neat): highly explosive at 64.4%, packed with black pepper and very ripe cherries. And hooray, no creepy crawlies as you often find in ripe cherries. Quickly, with water: really quite good, I think everyone has made great progress with red wine finishes, even if it’s still far from my favourite combination. Long gone are the days of those early Port Ellens with Pomerol and Laphroaigs with Port that left us crying rivers. Finish: very long, well-balanced, more on blackcurrants. Comments: I think if you add ¾ of a fresh Chardonnay or better, Aligoté, you’d get a rather lovely malty Kir. Think of me if you try that recipe, won’t you?
SGP:651 - 84 points. |
Of course, one might say that, since red wine is rich in polyphenols that are beneficial to our health, this kind of finishing can only enhance the therapeutic profile of your wee dram. Right. But let’s not forget what the renowned Dr Swan stated during a conference at EuroMedLab a few years ago: “Research has shown that there are even greater health benefits for people who drink single malt whiskies. Why? Single malt whiskies contain more ellagic acid than red wine.”
Well, this all seems a bit far-fetched, doesn’t it? Let’s agree on that. And I certainly don’t want to end up in prison for publishing this sort of claim! Dr Swan was, after all, a renowned consultant for... the whisky business. But in these times of triumphant post-truth, is this kind of detail still important? |
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February 10, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today sherried Speyburn
It seems that all salmon are now polluted, but those featured on the official Speyburn labels certainly are not! However, today we’ll be tasting two independent bottlings. By the way, did you know that Speyburn was the first distillery to replace its traditional floor malting with drums? As early as 1900!
A bottle of Nocino aged in Demerara rum casks, by Silver Seal. |
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Speyburn 16 yo 2007/2023 (54.9%, The First Editions, Taiwan, sherry butt, cask #HL20323, 582 bottles) 
It’s charming to see the cat and the dog toasting together on the label, though I must admit, I’ve never witnessed such a thing in real life. Although, I suppose some cats I know might... Colour: pale gold. A pale hue for a first-fill sherry butt, though perhaps that one was intended for maturations ‘under flor’. The nose is delightfully fermentary, full of chalk and clay, then beer, sourdough, and beautifully ripe apples. It almost brings to mind macerated white wine. With water: grapeseed oil, more apples, hints of mashed banana, and plasticine—all lively, joyful, and decidedly ‘natural’. Mouth (neat): excellent, always showcasing that chalky profile we love (think Champagne), with lovely tension. Apples, grapefruit, pepper, green tea, and amaretti. With water: it’s truly outstanding, maltier now, with charming bitters evoking Campari and nocino from Modena—vai vai vai! The nocinos from Silver Seal are fabulous; if you don’t know them, you really must. Finish: long, rich, still fermentary, yeasty, peppery, chalky, but with the addition of ripe apples and a hint of lemon blossom honey in the aftertaste. Comments: you can’t imagine how much pleasure it gives me to taste this little gem of a Speyburn pulled from the back of the cupboard.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |

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Speyburn 15 yo 2008/2024 (60.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, first fill sherry butt, cask #552, 644 bottles) 
Colour: light gold. Nose: this time it’s very buttery, lactic, and mashy, reminiscent of that classic mashed potato recipe—½ potato, ½ butter, ½ olive oil. I know. There’s also plenty of pine resin, although everything lightens up over time, heading towards orchard fruits. There remains a hint of mashed green peas. With water: a hectolitre of Scottish ale (naturally). Mouth (neat): much closer to the First Editions bottling here, with grapefruit and green walnuts, though the mashy/mushy pea character persists. With water: it softens quite a bit, but the lactic and distinctly fermentary side remains. Finish: long, with bread, green banana, grey pepper, and… mashed potatoes and green pea purée, mixed 50/50. Comments: not the easiest malt, but we enjoy the challenge here. The First Editions bottling still has the upper hand—graciously so, let’s say.
SGP:451 - 85 points. |
In both cases, it’s fair to say that the sherry hasn’t gone overboard. |
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February 9, 2025 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
A few anthological old Cognacs for this Sunday.
A wild aperitif, followed by just two or three (or four) old Cognacs... Then, next Sunday, we'll return to rums, which are quite literally taking over WF Towerz.
Remembering Albert Ayler
1936-1970 |
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Reminder: our scores for Cognacs and Armagnacs may appear very high, but unlike our approach to whiskies and rums, we focus solely on the very best bottles, which inevitably raises the average scores significantly. Apologies, but we simply do not have the time and energy to taste average Cognacs or Armagnacs. |

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Prunier ‘Rare Blended Cognac’ (52.9%, Swell de Spirits, 450 bottles, 2024) 
Unusual and intriguing, this blend comprises 10% Fins Bois pure Colombard 2012, 25% Petite Champagne pure Folignan 2014, and 65% Folle Blanche from Fins Bois 2011. If you’re wondering what Folignan is, I wasn’t familiar with it until just now either. A quick dive into DeepSeek suggests it’s ‘a synthetic compound that acts as a positive allosteric modulator of the GABA_A receptor.’ Hmm, well, let’s leave that aside. ChatGPT, alongside Grok, informs us that Folignan is actually a hybrid created in 1964 by crossing Ugni Blanc with Folle Blanche, officially recognised within the Cognac appellation since 2005 but limited to a maximum of 10% of a vineyard's varieties. That seems to check out… Colour: gold. Nose: a rather fat and slightly earthy profile, opening with surprising wafts of sea breeze and fresh rubber (new trainers), before developing into richer organic tones—potting soil, seaweed, damp leaves, tobacco, pistachio oil, and peanut oil. This feels like a Cognac made for the outdoors. With water: the same profile persists but adds notes of metal polish and old silverware. Mouth (neat): rough, peppery, and bone-dry at first, but soon tamed by fruit peelings—peach, melon, apple—before evolving into the fruits themselves, now mingled with a touch of liquorice extract. It grows increasingly salty and even spicy. With water: more fruit-forward, though all green and white fruits now, including crisp little green pears. Finish: long and saline, still very dry, though riper peach and softer liquorice lend a touch of refinement and poise. Comments: could it be the Folignan that imparts this ultra-dry quality, reminiscent of Manzanilla? Or is it the Fins Bois terroir? This gets remarkably close to certain coastal Scottish malts.
SGP:361 - 87 points. |

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Marie Foucher ‘Lot 75 – L’esprit Nomade’ (50.18%, Malternative Belgium, Fins Bois, 324 bottles) 
This takes us to the village of Foussignac. On the Malternative Belgium website, you’ll find the stories behind each bottling and each character, often quite moving and reminiscent of Grosperrin’s style. After all, great spirits are largely about great characters. Colour: deep gold. Nose: initially a touch shy, but the fruits slowly rise to the surface—yellow peaches, honey, sultanas, and ripe bananas. You can tell water will work wonders here; in my opinion, Cognac seems to react about 10% less than malt to dilution. By which I mean that a 50% Cognac feels akin to a 60% malt—a purely personal observation. With water: damp leaves, roasted chestnuts, lanolin, sesame oil, and even shoe polish. Another little enchantment. Mouth (neat): forget it, it’s perfect. Astonishingly fruity, partially exotic, with figs galore—figs, figs, and more figs. With water: peaches, apples, and pears burst forward like Mbappé charging into the box. Looks like a goal is inevitable. Finish: not eternal, but who cares? The arrival of liquorice and powerful honey wraps it all up beautifully. Comments: what can I say? This is perfect. Once again, beware the dangerously high drinkability index. You might want to ask your better half to hide the bottle.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
We’re starting off too high, once more. I mean, the scores are too high, right. |

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François Voyer ‘Lot 77 – Monsieur Doute’ (48.7%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 214 bottles) 
Holy Suzy, 1977, that’s Talking Heads! Colour: amber gold. Nose: an avalanche of raisins—every grape variety, every origin, every stage of ripeness. I’m aware that such a description might seem partial or simplistic, but I couldn’t care less (S., please behave). Mouth: as I’ve already mentioned, our Belgian friends are starting to annoy us (just joking, we adore them—Alsatians are basically Belgians who never made it to Switzerland). But here we go again with another absolutely glorious Grande Champagne they’ve unearthed. Stunning toasted notes, alongside that cascade of raisins and ripe peaches of every imaginable variety. A sturdy, lightly salted liquorice steps in to restore order, and not a moment too soon. Finish: more of the same. Comments: an old Cognac that’s retained a remarkable amount of vigour—much like David Byrne. By the way, did you know David Byrne was born in Dumbarton, Scotland?
SGP:641 - 91 points. |

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Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Lot n°73’ (50.8%, Spirit of the Day x Spirit Gallery, Grande Champagne, 197 bottles, 2024) 
Bravo S., choosing a Pasquet isn’t exactly going to cool things down, is it? Colour: amber. Nose: sharper and livelier, with green apple, young pineapple, and a touch of patchouli, in a style reminiscent of certain Fins Bois. Gorgeous notes of Iberian ham, a hint of maritime tar, green bananas, and a hefty 500g pack of liquorice straight from Schiphol. Saying that because we don’t find those in France. With water: water smooths it out nicely, bringing it closer to gently honeyed apple compote with faint yeasty touches, à la Springbank (yes, really). A hint of metal polish makes a reappearance too. Mouth (neat): firm and even fruitier. This time, exotic fruits arrive in droves, always underlined by a streak of pepper and chilli, reminiscent of Réunion cuisine (rougail). With water: honey, mead, raisins, stewed fruits, and very dark chocolate, with maybe two or three coffee beans sneaking in. Finish: good length, beautifully oily, slightly more herbal as is often the case (and a touch of grape skins), with hints of old wood and humus at the end. Comments: a lovely journey with plenty of twists and turns—it’s no motorway. Oh, and I almost forgot to mention a hint of salinity in the aftertaste.
SGP:561 - 89 points. |

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Grosperrin – Bertandeau ‘Lot 71 – La Bonne cause’ (52.9%, Malternative Belgium, Petite Champagne, 323 bottles, 2023) 
Allez, let’s pick up the pace. Colour: gold. Nose: here we’re entering the territory of varnish and old tree stumps, with wild mushrooms (not trying to sound clever, I promise, but I’m reminded of coral fungi, which pairs nicely with the tree stumps), then pinecones and a faint rubbery touch. This is followed by green and black teas, a hint of ham fat, and finally whole oranges making a bold entrance. With water: beautiful! Figs, sultanas, and vineyard peaches emerge, everything becoming more classic and approachable. Mouth (neat): an old bourbon-like vibe at first, with plenty of power and a marked rye character, followed by roasted pineapple and black pepper. With water: oh yes, water works wonders here! A straightforward exotic fruit jam, but don’t add too much water, as it might release too much tannicity. Finish: fairly long, with a light muscat-like note beyond the usual fruit combination. The aftertaste turns noticeably earthier and woodier, with a leather and tobacco edge. Comments: there’s also a lovely story behind this cask, which I’ll leave you to discover on the appropriate websites (not Disney’s, mind you).
SGP:561 - 90 points. |

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Paul Beau ‘Lot 70 – En Danseuse’ (43.11%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 290 bottles, 2024) 
The official Paul Beau bottlings we tasted a good few years ago didn’t blow us away, but the context here is quite different… Colour: golden gold (seriously, what?). Nose: there’s a lot of elegance here—delicate waxes, little yellow fruits, tiny herbs, fruity oils (olive, peanut, sesame, sunflower), followed by toasted nuts, shall we say. Pecan, macadamia, peanut, hazelnut… The whole ensemble nearly leads to that infamous spread that’s been tormenting mums for decades. It then finishes with vineyard peach, as is so often the case. Mouth: this baby is quite astonishing, reminiscent of malts distilled in similar years (think Glen Grant, Glenlivet, or even Bushmills), with honey, pollen, ripe peach, blackberry, and sweet wines from southwestern France (200 kilometres south of Cognac)—like Monbazillac, Sauternes, Jurançon doux, Cérons (love Cérons), or Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh doux, among others. Oh, and some old Pineau, if you prefer. Finish: of medium length but with gorgeous softness, featuring ripe fruits and honey. A beautiful citric signature, with a tiny touch of salinity and liquorice at the end. Comments: 1970! Best enjoyed while listening to Hendrix, Joplin… or Albert Ayler. A magnificent old Cognac full of gentleness.
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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February 8, 2025 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
A trip to China part 2: Dongwei Distillery
A belated follow up to our previous session where we tasted some Laizhou single malts (and a single blend). This time we’re exploring Dongwei Distillery for the first time. Dongwei is located in Hunan Province and was founded in 2014, they distill a lot with Chinese grown barley, use gas-fired distillation and age all their whiskies for a minimum of six years. Quite a variety of yeast and oak combinations are used apparently. |
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Dongwei (63.9%, OB, cask #C.01, 2nd fill barrel, bottled 2024, 106 bottles) 
A distillery started in 2014 that uses gas fired distillation, six row north western Chinese barley and Chinese peat. Apparently this one was made to deliberately have a slightly soapy character - not sure why that would be, but it sounds both totally mad and completely fascinating… Colour: bright straw. Nose: indeed, there is something fragile and feathery, like old face cream and hand lotion, dried lavender and violets. It’s like one of the more gentle versions of 1980s Bowmore in some respects. There’s a rather brittle and dry smoke fading in and out too, that also comes across as elegantly coastal at times. With water: camphor, clay, sandalwood and beach sand with plasticine and sun lotion. Mouth: indeed, some soap is here. It’s not intolerable levels, we aren’t in 1980s Edradour territory and reaching for the factor 50 toothpaste. But there are distinct flavours that conjure lavender, violets and perfume, with wee hints of fairy liquid. With water: rice wine, some slightly stale notes, salty porridge, hints of waxed canvass and soda bread. Some further generic ‘soapy’ notes’. Finish: pretty long, carbolic, drying, salty and soapy. Comments: how on earth do you score a whisky like this? To deliberately make this kind of profile is highly provocative and almost a philosophical challenge. To me, soap is a flaw, and I have to say, I don’t particularly enjoy this whisky, but I find it technically impressive that someone has created a sort of Chinese 1980s Bowmore tribute dram. I am going to score it purely as if it were a soapy dram in its own right, on its own merits as a whisky, but I also begrudgingly commend the distiller for being so crazy!
SGP: 452 - 65 points. |
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Dongwei (62.8%, OB, cask #C.15, bourbon, bottled 2024, 109 bottles) 
This one should be peated, and hopefully not soapy… Colour: gold. Nose: excellent, clean and tightly focussed peat smoke. Feels rather rich, creamy and thick, with some lovely notes of wood smoke, paraffin and pine resin. Love this rather concentrated, syrupy and camphory character. With water: more coastal and a tad more ‘Scottish’ perhaps, with crushed seashells, seawater, medical embrocations and bandages. Retains an excellent sense of density and weight. Mouth: great arrival! Very peaty, full of concentrated tarry notes, also a lot of herbal characteristics such as old herbal liqueurs, verbena, wormwood and eucalyptus. And a very resinous, fir wood character that runs throughout. With water: more creaminess and spice characteristics from the wood come through here, which in combination with the peat, manifests as a mix of coconut cream, fir wood resins, herbal ointments and wood smoke. Also showing wee notes of oily kippers and creosote. Finish: long, very tarry, peppery, with more fir woods and hardwood resins, camphor and herbal extracts. Comments: seriously very impressive whisky. Feels like the balance of climate, oak, peat and distillate has really been struck brilliantly. I’d also say it’s so far away from cask C.01 that it starts to make that bottling look increasingly very clever by comparison.
SGP: 466 - 88 points. |
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Dongwei (62.8%, OB, cask #C.22, STR barrique, bottled 2024, 152 bottles) 
A mashbill of coffee malt and crystal malt this time. Colour: orangey amber. Nose: more extreme in profile this time, a big sense of bitterness, full on artichoke liqueur, salted liquorice, then tea tree oil, green walnuts, orange cordial and almond paste. Very big and rather extreme whisky. With water: richly on wholemeal breads, game meats, natural tar extracts, hardwood resins and herbal cough mixtures. Like the peated one, it gives an impression of fullness of texture and fatness. Mouth: again really quite full on with big bitter notes of artichoke liqueur, espresso, coffee grounds, very dark chocolate, cheng pi, aniseed liqueur and mole sauce. I have to say, it’s extreme, but there’s something undeniably impressive about the texture and fatness of the whole profile - would that be down to direct firing? With water: enhances these chocolatey vibes, notes of chocolate sauce with chipotle chilli, camphor, aniseed, shoe leather, mushroom powder, BBQ sauce and biltong. Finish: long, back on black salted liquorice, old Burgundian pinot noir, camphor, sooty notes, boot polish and dark chocolate dissolved in espresso. Comments: it’s whacky and undeniably extreme at points, but I can’t help but find this impressive nonetheless. I prefer the peated one, but this is still very good.
SGP: 472 - 85 points. |
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Dongwei (66.9%, OB, cask #C.31, Mongolian oak, bottled 2024, 126 bottles) 
Don’t think I ever tasted anything from Mongolian oak before, but their website suggest that they use this wood type to try to find the possibilities of ‘more Chinese characteristics’ which I think is a very smart endeavour for a Chinese whisky. Colour: gold. Nose: wood resins and runny honey, some hints of caraway and fennel seed too, but certainly also a little closed off by the high alcohol. With water: some green wood, green peppercorn, rosewater and even a subtle hint of Gewurztraminer. Still a sense of wood spices and sappiness about it. Mouth: rather sappy and syrupy, wood varnish, lime leaf, coconut and ground ginger. Quite a bit of oak spice, but a balancing creaminess of texture which carries it well while also thankfully masking the high ABV somewhat. With water: a much broader spiciness emerges, very punchy now, with lots of dried cupboard spices, pink peppercorn and even a hint of Szechuan pepper (but that may be the power of suggestion). A few preserved yellow fruits in syrup also peeping through. Finish: long, but very spicy and a little hot. Comments: probably my least favourite (apart from the soapy one, but it’s increasingly clear that was some kind of deliberate experiment) but it’s still evidently some high quality distillate with distinctive oak influence.
SGP: 571 - 84 points. |
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Dongwei (62.3%, OB, cask #C.19, 1st fill bourbon, bottled 2024, 118 bottles) 
We’re being a bit random with our order selection here, but this is Whiskyfun, not Whiskyorder! (what?) Colour: deep gold. Nose: a lovely nose of acacia honey, wormwood, gorse flower and quite a few bright cereal notes and other elements that suggest natural sweetness, such as lemon barley water, flower nectars and fruity muesli. With water: juniper, oak spices, cedar wood, creme brûlée and some lovely notes of fennel and tarragon. Mouth: excellent concentration and syrupy quality, a real sense of texture and many fruit salad juices and honey impressions. Some slightly dusty pollen notes, white tea and candied citrus peels. With water: pineapple, pine wood resins, some green fruits such as cider apple and gooseberry, but also a slightly firmer, more peppery side emerging. Finish: medium, getting a tad drier and spicier now. Comments: the finish dragged it down a little, but overall I’d say this is another example of where the classic cask types always seem to deliver the more enjoyable whiskies - wherever they’re used in the world.
SGP: 461 - 85 points. |
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Dongwei (63.3%, OB, peated, cask #C.28, ex-rye cask, bottled 2024, 146 bottles) 
A final peated one to finish. Colour: deep gold. Nose: a richer, deeper and more robust smokiness, bonfire and BBQ smoke, with wood ashes, tarred rope, pine resin and camphor. Also hints of coal smoke and lanolin, which adds a soft medicinal undercurrent. With water: creamier and slightly more farmyard in character, earthier, sootier, some roasted vegetables such as parsnips, and still quite a persistent wood smoke note. Mouth: again, very big whisky! Rather tarry, very dry and thick smokiness, lots of creosote and roof pitch - almost Ardbeggy at times. Then some dried black olives and hessian. With water: rather mashy, like sipping peated wort, then smoked sea salt, tarry rope, ointments, mercurochrome and smoked olive oil. Finish: long, on a deeper and slightly sweeter smokiness, with a few maritime characteristics like dried seaweed appearing. Comments: another very solid peaty one, but was this Chinese peat? I preferred the first peated one by a notch, but this is still excellent.
SGP: 466 - 87 points. |
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Looks like there will be some very high quality and fascinating whiskies emerging from China in the coming years, if these two wee sessions are anything to go by. |
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Concert Review
by Nick Morgan
Lyle Lovett
Cadogan Hall, London,
Saturday 25th January 2025
For all that he seems to be constantly on the road Texan composer and singer Lyle Lovett is only an occasional visitor to London. That’s rather a shame, as two very quickly sold out nights at the Cadogan Hall suggests that there’s no shortage of people willing to pay to see him. |
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This long tall Texan, slightly stooped with age, suit jacket buttoned up in a style that would have flattered Norman Wisdom, has a staged presence that would charm the birds from the trees. |
He’s arrived from Scotland and Ireland, nursing a sore throat contracted, he believed from his twins, whom he affectionally describes as ‘seven year old petri dishes’. Water and warm tea (with honey?) keep his voice in good shape, and there’s certainly no half measures in his performance. It’s two and a half hours of pure pleasure. Although there is a surprise start. Before the band takes the stage we’re played what I believe to be Guy Lombardo and his Royal Canadian’s mournful recording of Auld Lang Syne from the 1930’s. I have to assume (it wasn’t mentioned) that this was to honour the fact that it's Burn’s Night. Guy and his boys made it sound more like a New Orleans funeral march song than a celebration of the great Baird. |
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Lovett has lost his once very salient hair-do, but still retains a striking appearance. He’s not wearing his hat but the boots, as you would expect, are on. His mannerisms are unusual; he appears somewhat hesitant, and almost shy as he addresses the microphone and the audience. But at the same time he has an easy way with the crowd, building an immediate and quite intimate rapport. He’s also happy to fall into conversation with a student from his alma mater who’s in the front stalls. Despite the rather forbidding appearance of the Cadogan Hall you could almost imagine that he was sitting in your living room, with his band, chatting and singing. |

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This is Lovett’s ‘acoustic band’, and they are, with no exaggeration, music royalty, each commanding lengthy Wikipedia entries (look them up). Actually that’s not true; pianist Jim Cox seems to have evaded Wiki’s attention, but you can find out some interesting stuff about him here. Russ Kunkel is on drums (Bill Withers, Jackson Browne, Joni Mitchell, Jimmy Buffett, Harry Chapin, Rita Coolidge, Neil Diamond, Bob Dylan, Cass Elliot, Dan Fogelberg, Glenn Frey, Art Garfunkel, Nitty Gritty Dirt Band, Carole King, Lyle Lovett, Reba McEntire, Stevie Nicks, Linda Ronstadt, Bob Seger, Carly Simon, Stephen Stills, James Taylor, Joe Walsh, Steve Winwood, Neil Young, and Warren Zevon). Leland Sklar, a longstanding partner of Kunkel’s, is on bass. I stopped counting how many albums he has played on. Jeff White was playing guitar and mandolin (another huge discography) and Grammy winning Stuart Duncan on fiddle. White and Duncan also supported Lovett with some beautiful harmonies. There is a graceful ease in the way these long-standing friends play together, nothings rushed, no surprises just some wonderful playing. Jim Cox, with a couple of solos towards the end of the set, was outstanding. |
When you have a catalogue of songs like Lovett it’s hard not to deliver a compelling performance – the only hard thing must be deciding which songs to play (a bit, I suppose, like Paul McCartney on his recent tour) We got twenty one, which stretched from his first album (the wistful Pontiac, a pretty brave opening song), to his most recent, from which we heard ‘Pants is overrated’, ‘Are we dancing’, and the eponymous ‘12th June’. One, ‘It’s a naked party’, written with his children on a tour bus (where they were, he told us, running up and down the aisle in the nude screaming ‘it’s a naked party’, has yet to see vinyl). And goodness me, Mr Lovett does have some brilliant songs, which I had almost forgotten. ‘Here I am’, ‘Nobody knows me’, ‘She’s no lady’, ‘I’ve been to Memphis’ (Jim Cox piano), ‘If I had a boat’: these are all songs out of the very top drawer. Sublimely written songs about love and life, about the constant battleground of genders, men versus woman, about strength and weakness, about failure and redemption, terminal regret, and about booze, boots, hats, and Texas. I had a lost weekend of about five days in Austin in November 2016 and it was all of that (Trump had just been made President, the weird city was in shock). That’s the way it is down in Texas, as Ry Cooder might have sung. |
In between the songs and the water and tea (with honey?) we also had some discursive and mostly self-depreciating digressions from Mr Lovett, and quite a lot about his band, and his family. He acknowledged the presence of Daily Telegraph journalist Ian Winwood, and also played his request ‘Creeps like me’ (which he hasn’t played on stage for some thirty years, and described as ‘not a great song’). I wonder how he felt about the fact that even after all these years the Telegraph had to lead the interview with this headline ‘Lyle Lovett on life with Julia Roberts’. The set finished with an encore of the moving ‘North Dakota’ (more Jim Cox piano) and as one might have predicted, a rousing ‘That's right (you're not from Texas). ‘Each day of human life is made up of a song, a smile and a tear’, said the New Orleans Times Democrat in February 1905, and that I think just about sums up every Lyle Lovett gig, and certainly this evening’s. - Nick Morgan |
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February 7, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos, today Glen Spey is back
Yet another little name that one feels like defending and savouring as often as possible. However, we still have vivid memories of the various Glen Speys ‘Authentic Collection’ from Cadenhead in the 1990s, which were simply mind-blowing and so potent that even Elon M. wouldn’t dare use them as fuel for his rockets. |
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Glen Spey 14 yo 2008/2023 (46%, Murray McDavid, Benchmark, 1st fill oloroso finish, 1231 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: a lovely touch of beeswax, fresh walnuts, macarons, chestnut cream, candied sugar, and crema catalana. For now, everything is going very well, even if this little one is unlikely to revolutionise the state of malt whisky worldwide. Mouth: but this is really good! A faint earthy touch and a hint of old white wine—or rather Madeira—followed by Demerara sugar and some tannins reminiscent of Turkish coffee, though loaded with sugar. It’s quite delightful, evoking a holiday malt to sip while enjoying a nargileh and a game of backgammon. Finish: of good length, with caramel that’s perhaps a tad insistent and a truly sweet aftertaste, offering a note of violet liqueur. Or perhaps Parfait Amour. Comments: it’s a touch sweet indeed, but we’ve a soft spot for this charming little one, which is very gentle yet holds its ground.
SGP:641 - 84 points. |

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Glen Spey 14 yo 2009/2024 (55.9%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Glens & Valleys, hogshead, cask #804619, 267 bottles) 
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: well, speaking of those 1990s Cadenhead’s, here’s another rocket fuel, though these twelve tonnes of green apples are rather impressive. That said, it doesn’t quite hit 60% ABV or more. Green melon, lemon, kerosene, and modelling clay. Let’s say the jury’s still out. With water: freshly cut grass, apple peelings, and a hint of kirsch. Mouth (neat): pear eau-de-vie, pear eau-de-vie, and pear eau-de-vie—you get the idea. With water: pear takes over completely, and it’s spectacular. There’s even a touch of pear cider. Finish: long, very fruity, with pear, apple liqueur, and honey. Comments: it does feel like absolutely nothing happened during those fourteen years in cask, but as a result, it has a charming eau-de-vie character. Pear eau-de-vie, of course. It’s really good, though slightly elementary.
SGP:641 - 81 points. |
Last minute bonus, this one just in… |

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Glen Spey 7 yo 2016/2024 (58.9%, DH Global Spirits for Erised, Connoisseurs Dram, 1st fill oloroso octave, cask #706131A, 87 bottles) 
Let me insist, we have absolutely nothing against very young malts aged in very active casks, provided their age is not hidden. Quite the opposite, in fact. Colour: dark amber. Nose: a hint of Van Winkle right at the start, with plenty of fresh varnish, but the sherry quickly takes the lead. It’s a very vinous sherry, with an assertive combo of Jerez vinegar, prunes, walnut wine, and coffee. All of this works in sync, like, well, let’s say the Andrews Sisters in Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy. With water: chocolate truffles from a fine chocolatier, naturally coated in bitter cocoa. Mouth (neat): similar impressions. It stings a bit, but that’s to be expected, and there’s a touch of plank wood—again, perfectly normal. With water: excellent, with walnut wine, bitter oranges, some new-school vermouth crafted by ex-hipsters, and a bit of pepper that tickles the palate. Finish: long, with deeply bitter chocolate, a touch of leather, and a final note of pepper and salt. Comments: a lovely little brute with a charming bitterness that’s best tamed with a splash of water. We quite love it.
SGP:461 - 85 points. |
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February 6, 2025 |
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A BenRiach-tacular session, Part Three and Last
Back with more Benriach, but this will be the final session for now. It’s true, we had plenty lined up, and there will be some left for... later. As expected, it’s a 1976 that’s currently leading the pack… |

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Benriach-Glenlivet 12 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, bourbon then Sauternes, 2023) 
A version finished for over two years in Sauternes, so one might expect a double layer of fruitiness and sweetness, or even a somewhat pleonastic profile. Colour: light gold. Nose: lots of apricots, honey, canned lychee, very ripe mirabelles, and sugar cake. The wine is quite prominent but remains close to a classic Benriach profile, so everything’s fine so far. Mouth: similar impressions of apricot jam and honey, but with notable additions of bay leaves and ginger cookies. If these were proper Sauternes casks from a ‘château,’ the spicier side makes sense. Remember that true wine barrels are much less charred (if not STR, etc.) than barrels made for whisky. Finish: medium length, still jammy, but with spices reminiscent of some mulled wine mix. A hint of coffee and tobacco lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: not bad at all.
SGP:651 - 83 points. |

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Benriach 13 yo 2010/2023 (59.9%, James Eadie, 1st fill Marsala hogshead finish, cask #354549, 302 bottles) 
This has been finished in a European oak Marsala cask for 43 months, which, I suppose, could also be called ‘maturation’ (36 months and 1 day). I must admit, I’m not sure there are so many European oak hogsheads about. Colour: gold. Nose: we’re quite close to the Cadenhead style here, only less fruity, less expansive, and more rooted in earth and the peelings of vegetables and fruits. Perhaps the very high ABV plays a part here... With water: a fair amount of leather, slag, and basalt. Mouth (neat): very lemony, with a pronounced bitterness. Hints of tree leaves and pine needles. A touch austere at this stage. With water: not much change; it remains highly bitter, with concentrated lemon juice accentuating its sharp edge. Finish: long, sticking to the same profile, growing increasingly herbal with notes of raw spinach. Comments: I find this rugged youngster unusually un-James-Eadie-like. Are we absolutely sure this is from the usually brilliant James Eadie?
SGP:471 - 80 points. |

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Benriach 12 yo 2005/2018 (57.6%, OB for Independent Spirit, Pedro Ximenez butt, cask #6926, 636 bottles) 
Running quite late with this one once more, but this official beastie was worth the wait. Colour: coffee. Nose: quite a few spent matches at first, alongside coffee, dates, Corinth raisins, and pipe tobacco. The matchsticks (or gunpowder) never entirely disappear at this stage, though it’s not really bothersome. With water: leather, tobacco, bay leaves, cardamom, and gradually more fig jam. That’s very nice indeed. Mouth (neat): very rich. Curry-infused chocolate, basalt, and heaps of black pepper and bitter oranges. I was expecting a profile leaning more heavily on raisins and a PX-style sweetness, but not quite. With water: an avalanche of dried fruits comes through, with a sensation that the cask might have been ‘Aperol-boosted.’ What a spritz! Finish: long, with notes of bitters, artichokes, and even a hint of truffle. The black pepper and cloves make a return in the aftertaste. Comments: quite wild, this young Benriach. The sulphury side is an integral part of this style, which we still enjoy a great deal.
SGP:562 - 85 points. |

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Benriach 25 yo 1997/2023 (54.1%, OB, Cask Edition, LMDW New Vibrations, Rum barrel, cask #7779, 196 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: wonderfully soft, it seems, marked by agricole-style rum, with delightful notes of mandarins, faded roses, gentle curry, and even, wait for it, mangoes! It’s as if they’ve managed to recreate a 1970s-style profile. With water: chalk layered over impeccably refined citrus fruits. Very elegant. Mouth (neat): those mandarins are back, along with other citrus fruits, a touch of cinchona, and a gentle bitterness (let’s not bring up that Italian aperitif again), alongside lively, fresh honeys. With water: perfection. Beware, drinkability level here is 11/10—handle with care! Finish: rather long, with those citrus notes and touches of mango keeping a lively rhythm, particularly the honeyed mandarins. Comments: an outstanding success in this marriage of Benriach and rum. Well played.
SGP:641 - 90 points. |
Right, let’s finish this vertically… |

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Benriach 27 yo 1996/2023 (42.9%, Milroy’s Vintage Reserve, hogshead, cask #43214, 221 bottles) 
This one seems to have entertained a good many angels over the years—let’s see if it has held its ground. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: oh, it’s as fresh as a daisy and as cheerful as a majorette! Lovely green apples, gooseberries, greengages, and sour cherries, with just a hint of honey and a touch of beer yeast. Vineyard peaches, citron, and a dash of aniseed-tinged liquorice round off this rather captivating tableau. Mouth: the low ABV suits it perfectly. It’s a proper old-fashioned fruit salad (reminiscent of classic Benriach), blending orchard fruits—pears and Red Delicious apples—with tropical fruits like passion fruit and, yet again, mango. It’s brimming with irrepressible joy. Right. Finish: admittedly a tad short, but fresh and beautifully chiselled. Once more, the drinkability index is dangerously high. Comments: a superlative old whisky for summer. Only five months to wait…
SGP:541 - 90 points. |

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Benriach 28 yo 1994/2022 (53.6%, OB, Cask Edition, LMDW, Virgin oak hogshead, cask #8127) 
This is a peated version, apparently distilled from malted barley produced on their own malting floor. Colour: deep gold. Nose: a true blend of smokes, not just peat. There’s peat, of course, but also resinous woods, beech, and even a hint of fuel oil. All this melds with the expected citrus and marmalade notes, resulting in something compact and no-frills, much like certain malts from the Kildalton shore. With water: smoked almonds and Lapsang Souchong, this time with a cloud of milk – is it allowed to have Lapsang Souchong with milk? Also, roasted pine nuts. Mouth (neat): this is both excellent and highly distinctive. Notes of coriander, pink grapefruit, gentian, mentholated cough drops, and a menthol-tobacco edge, though it’s hard to pinpoint how much of this comes from the virgin oak. Crucially, no plank notes—absolutely none—but rather sap buds. With water: one might think of an oriental pastry loaded with pistachios and orange blossom honey. A touch of smoked bacon as well. Finish: the peat makes a triumphant return, yet everything remains tightly integrated, never disjointed or chaotic. The citrus sings in the aftertaste, which also features more menthol and a touch of tar. Comments: I was unnecessarily wary of the peat and virgin oak combination. A superb variation, and the same score again. We’d need decimal points to differentiate these, but we resolutely refuse to go there.
SGP:654 - 90 points. |

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Benriach 30 yo 1991/2021 (47.8%, Càrn Mor for HNWS Taiwan, Celebration of the Cask, bourbon barrel, cask #18583, 145 bottles) 
Colour: white wine. Nose: apples in their purest and most immaculate form (what?) alongside some subtle floral touches, meadow honey, and the buttery scent of a freshly baked croissant. Perhaps even an almond cake, like that absolute delight called a Paris-Brest (flaked almonds, praline buttercream, choux pastry, etc.). Mouth: utterly simple, fruity, easy, and superb. Notes of fruity beer, nougat, sweet cider, praline, and a small spoonful of peanut butter. Finish: fairly long, with more citrus coming through and a touch of pink pepper. The aftertaste circles back to the soft, fruity beer. Comments: it feels rather youthful but offers a profile that’s both slightly simple and marvellous. I love this unpretentious old Speyside, entirely natural.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
One last one to reach 25 Benriachs. That’s enough, isn’t it? Let’s dig into the back library... Ah, here’s an idea… |

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Benriach 23 yo 1984/2008 (54.2%, The Single Malts of Scotland, hogshead, cask #194, 214 bottles) 
The old label! The other 1984s we’ve tried before were peated, so this should follow suit. It’s crucial, especially with samples, and even more so with older ones, to ensure there are no signs of typical deterioration—no glue, varnish, metallic, cardboardy or chemical notes. And here, the whisky remains perfectly clear, thankfully. Colour: gold. Nose: reminiscent of the official peated 1994 profile, but slightly less amped up, lighter, and waxier. Hints of plasticine, a touch of earth, citrus peels, and a whisper of smoked charcuterie. There’s a faint sherry fino edge—though, of course, there isn’t any—and a vaguely farmy quality, almost Brora-esque again, but not quite. With water: more earthy, stunningly so, with remarkable power even at around 45%. Mouth (neat): bold peat, accentuated rooty notes, wild lemon-mint combos, ginseng, and earthy undertones. This is a style entirely its own, distinct from all other peaty malts, even the Benriach distilled in later years. With water: peat, beeswax, and mandarins. Surely, we won’t invoke Clynelish’s neighbour again, will we? Finish: long, almost oily. Citrus, oils, a touch of salt, waxes, and a hint of miso. Comments: undeniably superb. I must admit, I liked the old labels too (though that doesn’t matter, does it?).
SGP:564 - 89 points. |
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February 5, 2025 |
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A BenRiach-tacular session, Part Two
No real standout winner yesterday, but everything was truly good to very good. Let’s keep going… |

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Benriach 1996/2015 (43%, Jean Boyer, Best Cask of Scotland, Re-Coopered Hogsheads) 
Always a soft spot for the house of Jean Boyer. Cheers, Jean Marie up there. Amusingly, at 43% ABV, they still decided not to chill-filter it—yet the whisky remains as clear as a Greenlandic mountain stream (randomly chosen). Colour: pale white wine. Nose: oh, lovely! Notes of cucumber water, even pickles, along with green apple juice and lemon, followed by hints of damp earth and melon skin. While one always leans toward higher strengths, it must be said that sometimes water unlocks a malt’s aromatic potential, even at bottling. Mouth: the purity of garden fruits, with a touch of vanilla and honey. Alas, the cucumber has disappeared (just joking). Finish: medium length, with pleasant saline notes and more malt, even a hint of blonde beer. Comments: very, very, very pleasant.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |

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Benriach 22 yo 2000/2022 (62.1%, SCSM, China, sherry butt, cask #25618, 246 bottles) 
Colour: amber. Nose: a very light touch of gunpowder that quickly melts into raisins, maple syrup, pecan pie, a hint of molasses, and triple sec (or Grand Marnier). And since we’re in China, perhaps a faint whiff of fortune cookie—though only if the paper’s message is good. Ha. With water: doesn’t change much, to be honest. A few notes of mild peppers. Mouth (neat): a firmer sherry than expected, with an explosion of pepper, leather, and tobacco, followed by the anticipated old walnuts. But be careful, this is over 62% ABV. With water: water transforms it significantly on the palate, bringing dried figs and heather honey to the forefront, while leather lingers in the background. Finish: long and similar, with glazed chestnuts and quite a bit of wood in the end. Comments: fairly dry in the end, but I find it really very good. A robust, ex-sherry Benriach with a bodybuilder’s frame.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |

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Benriach 12 yo 2009/2021 (59.8%, OB for LMDW, Conquête, Cask Edition, peated Port pipe, cask #4834, 766 bottles) 
Seven hundred and sixty-six bottles from a pipe, not bad at all! Colour: apricot. Nose: absolutely packed with smoke, like a chimney that’s back-drafting slightly. There’s a hint of red fruit in the background, but it’s the smoke, along with a touch of paraffin, that dominates for now. With water: the red fruits emerge, though covered in soot and wrapped in peat smoke. Blackcurrants and raspberries. Mouth (neat): very powerful, with leather, peat, pepper, bell pepper, and blueberries. Boom. With water: works well, as the oak brings plenty of spices like turmeric and ginger. The peat remains massive yet pleasantly drying, while the red fruits are slightly subdued. Finish: those same notes persist, but blood orange makes a late appearance, complete with its zest. Comments: peat and Port always make us a bit nervous, but I must admit this one has been handled beautifully. It even holds its own after the lovely sherry from our Chinese friends.
SGP:566 - 87 points. |

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Benriach 26 yo 1997/2023 (57.1%, The Duchess, Game & Wildlife Series, PX finish, cask #7355) 
Is that a skunk on the label? We love animals, and in many ways, they’re superior to Humans, but still—a skunk? Or is it a honey badger? Colour: deep gold. Nose: this is amusing, with a hint of strawberry right at the start, which then morphs into mountain honey, followed by sultanas, ripe mirabelles, and a touch of fresh garden mint. A gorgeous nose—soft, gentle, and utterly seductive. With water: hardly any change, apart from the usual walnut/leather/tobacco combo making its appearance. Mouth (neat): oh yes, this is excellent. Very close to some official ex-sherry releases, with notes of raspberry ganache, Mars bar-like caramel, and millionaire’s shortbread. With water: herbal teas and infusions join the mix, but with almost no sweetness. A touch of grape stems and seeds, though measured. Finish: long, with leather, tobacco, walnuts, and a hint of wax. Comments: simply very good. The duke must be pleased (or something like that).
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
One day, we’ll add 1 point for very pretty labels, like the one coming up, and deduct 1 for the horrible ones. And we’ll take off 10 points for anything too "AI", the kind of sloppy stuff that hurts our eyes and makes us overthink the future of humanity. And yes, of course, packaging is part of what makes a spirit what it is. |

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Benriach 26 yo 1997/2023 (61.2%, The Whisky Blues, hogshead, cask #7336, 165 bottles) 
A very beautiful label indeed. Colour: gold. Nose: creamy, malty, soft, with vanilla sponge cake and orange loaf. It’s simple, it’s beautiful, it’s undeniable. With water: much the same. A true barley extravaganza. Mouth (neat): here we go, this hits a 90. Pure malt, biscuits, tarte tatin, honeys, and ras-el-hanout. Remarkably gentle even at this strength. With water: a flurry of little herbs and spices bursts in, almost moving. Finish: fairly long, creamy, with notes of oriental pastries followed by the usual spices—paprika, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Even a touch of quince paste. Comments: and so, if we were really factoring in the label, this would score 91.
SGP:551 - 90 points. |

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Benriach 23 yo 1997/2020 (50.7%, The Whisky Agency, ‘Keep Going’, sherry butt, 427 bottles) 
Well, we’re only five years late… Colour: gold. Nose: this was a very well-matured butt, offering a nose that’s fresh, fruity, and mineral. Peaches, beach sand, mirabelles, and a touch of crushed slate. Fairly subtle, leaning towards the style of an excellent small-batch Cognac. Yes, indeed. Water is unnecessary. Mouth: very good, somewhat reminiscent of the Whisky Blues, but more focused on Williams pear. In fact, the pear rules the stage for now. With water: boom, tarte tatin and quince paste, plus a few blades of grass. Finish: medium length, with the pear making a return. Comments: these Whisky Agency bottlings, though we hardly see them anymore, often feel like haute couture whiskies. Here’s another fine example…
SGP:551 - 89 points. |

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Benriach 24 yo 1997/2021 (52.9%, Whisky-Fässle, hogshead) 
Amazing that Fässle prints ‘Please Enjoy Responsibly’ in bold on its labels. Of course, no one’s going to drive a 2.5-tonne American electric car with questionable brakes at 250km/h after downing half a litre of this Benriach. Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, it’s essentially the same whisky as the TWA, more or less. Mouth: same. Perhaps an additional lovely note of lemonade. Finish: same. Comments: with my apologies to the gang of ducks.
SGP:551 - 89 points. |

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Benriach 25 yo 1996/2021 (45.6%, Liquid Treasures, hogshead, 246 bottles) 
1 bonus point (fictitious) for the rather nautical, almost “yachting” label. Colour: pale straw. Nose: the same style as before, just slightly lighter. Apple juice, pear juice (a mortal sin), vanilla, and acacia honey. Mouth: very light, with an almost diaphanous character, featuring watered apple juice and light beers (but European ones, naturally). Finish: medium length, more herbal, with apple juice and a touch of cinnamon. A hint of pepper lingers longer than expected. Comments: a rather intellectual Benriach—light, subtle, and easy to miss if you don’t give it the attention it deserves.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |

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Benriach 33 yo 1991/2024 (55.9%, WhiskyLand, Decadent Drinks, second-fill sherry casks, 118 bottles) 
Now we’re talking about some proper age! Let me remind you, we’re always on the lookout for markers of the greatest Benriachs (1968-1971-1976). Essentially, mango. Colour: gold. Nose: perhaps, indeed, there are hints of those exotic fruits, but for now, it’s mostly guava and papaya. Also, beeswax and a pile of very ripe apples. A touch of plasticine too. With water: orange juice! Like love, culture, and kindness, orange juice might just save the world. Mouth (neat): this is serious business. Apple cake drizzled with lemon juice and linden honey. With water: still no mango, but a delightful combination of honey and orange biscuits. Finish: good length, with notes of cakes, Danish pastries, thyme tisane, and amaretti. Comments: as expected, this is a magnificent old Speyside in its natural state. But be cautious with water—it’s as delicate as an old Swiss watch. Better not to add any at all.
SGP:551 - 90 points. |
One last one for today, let’s go on… |

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Benriach 28 yo 1976/2005 (53.7%, OB, hogshead, cask #8081, 189 bottles) 
Now this should be something special. From one of those ‘peated’ batches made by Seagram’s during one of Scotland’s ‘peat race’ era. Many Benriach casks were later re-racked during the distillery’s revival under Billy Walker & co. Those days are long gone, as we’ve seen time and again, but let’s not deny ourselves the pleasure… Colour: deep gold. Nose: stunning! Never have banana skins, natural rubber, and mango peels (bingo!) been so magnificent. Tremendous subtlety, with even a hint of miso in the background. A truly philosophical malt. With water: cut hay, charred pinewood, and meaty notes—marrow, odd sausages, smoked bacon. Mouth (neat): mainland peated malts aren’t usually my thing (Brora and Longrow being the exceptions), but this is different. Thai broth, explosive citrus, and—cue trumpets—‘not-so-ripe’ mangoes. Superb green spices, pepper, and chili oil for pizza. With water: the fruits and wax seize control. Peated mirabelles—someone needs to make that happen. No, too busy, thanks. Finish: long, softer, more honeyed, fruitier, and more quintessentially Benriach. Smoky, peppered orange marmalade—does that exist?? Comments: a grandiose Benriach, the kind they simply don’t make anymore. Was this a flash in the pan? That said, I still prefer the unpeated versions of the same vintages; these exceptional peated expressions still trail the likes of Brora by three or four points.
SGP:664 - 91 points. |
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February 4, 2025 |
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A BenRiach-tacular session, Part One |

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Benriach Distillery (Benriach) |
We sometimes find ourselves overwhelmed. In fact, it happens to us all the time, but especially when a particular distillery arrives en masse among the independents. It creates a sort of bottleneck, as we make a point of tasting "a bit of everything" on WF. So, when avalanches of Glenburgie, Ledaig, Ben Nevis, Teaninich, Benrinnes or, in this case, Benriach arrive over the course of a few months or years, it’s sheer panic. Let’s call it a happy panic. Anyway, let’s try to solve the problem, specifically with regard to Brown-Forman's Benriach. We’ll approach it randomly, for more fun (and less order). Because Benriach is good! Even if we’re no longer in the realm of the 1968, 1971, or 1976 vintages—unless there are still some left for us to try in the stash, of course… |

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Benriach 7 yo 2013/2020 (46%, Whisky Is The Limit, 1st fill Banyuls barrique, cask #121A, 534 bottles) 
Ah, our Swiss friends, always with a keen eye (or nose) for wine. This time, they’ve gone for Banyuls, that delightful apéritif and dessert wine from the sunny slopes of the Eastern Pyrenees. Let’s see if this wee Benriach can handle the sweet embrace of such a cask… Colour: Deep gold. Nose: imagine smoking apricots over a pinewood fire, then drizzling the whole affair with a generous dollop of honey. Sounds improbable? Well, it’s actually rather lovely. There’s a resinous, almost medicinal edge here, but it’s balanced by a fruity sweetness that’s hard to resist. Mouth (neat): the Banyuls is front and centre, its sugary richness leading the charge. But wait—there’s a whisper of vegetal smoke, almost fino-like, lurking in the background. For a brief moment, you might think you’re sipping a dry PX aged in a solera system. Then come the smoked almonds, adding a nuttier, even more savoury twist. Quite the rollercoaster, this one. Finish: long, herbaceous, and even a touch peaty. Picture the ashes of a sprucewood fire, smouldering gently. It’s earthy, smoky, and oddly satisfying. Comments: peat and sweet wine—a bold pairing, no doubt. But here, it works. The Banyuls cask brings richness, while the spirit holds its own with a smoky, herbal backbone. A quirky little dram, but one that’s hard to put down.
SGP: 654 - 85 points. |

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Benriach 2013/2022 ‘Malting Season Second Edition’ (48.9%, OB, first fill bourbon cask) 
Malted Concerto barley from the distillery’s own malting floor! Colour: white wine. Nose: lemon tart and white nougat, followed by barley syrup, bruised apples, and vineyard peaches. It indeed feels ‘close to the barley’, which is thoroughly pleasing. Mouth: youthful, but the creamy and fruity character is highly enjoyable. Plenty of citrus, particularly candied lemon, then vanilla and more barley syrup. A wonderfully thick texture, even if the flavour spectrum isn’t particularly expansive. Finish: long, with barley sugar and a touch of fresh American oak. Vanilla essence and dried apples linger in the aftertaste. Comments: this is very good, perhaps just a tad too young. Now we greatly enjoy the creamy texture.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |

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Benriach 8 yo 2012/2020 (56%, Vintage Malt Whisky Co., exclusive for Taiwan, Hot Malt Art Series, bourbon barrel, cask #800215, 246 bottles) 
Colour: pale white wine. Nose: quick and straightforward, with green melons, pears, gooseberries, and a spoonful of sunflower oil. With water: as often, a subtle earthy touch emerges, followed by beeswax. Fresh, youthful, and refined. Mouth (neat): very fruity, very good. Bananas, apples, plums, alongside honey and green tea. Impeccable. With water: similar, but with more emphasis on citrus now. Finish: fairly long, with added vanilla, green tea, and white pepper. Very classic. Comments: nothing to fault here—a rather essential malt, offering exactly what its youthful age allows.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |

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Benriach 11 yo 2008/2020 (58%, Dràm Mor, cask #196, 87 bottles) 
Colour: gold. Nose: cherry leaves, old copper, walnuts, overripe apples, and tobacco. If there’s no sherry here, I’ll eat my Stetson cap. With water: wonderfully earthy, with damp dunnage, amontillado, and roasted hazelnuts. Mouth (neat): superb, a tauter sherry profile, focused on oranges and walnuts, but with hints of triple sec and rum-soaked sultanas, alongside mentholated tobacco. With water: simply perfect. Spiced orange liqueur and sweet pipe tobacco. Finish: long, spicier as expected, with clove and a touch of turmeric. Comments: a marvellous little bottle. I know we’re rather late to the party, but if you’ve got an unopened one in your stash, do dive in—it’s excellent.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |

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Benriach 8 yo 2013 (55.3%, The Stillman’s, La Table de Urs Hauri Selection, Switzerland, +/-2021) 
Here we are in the Swiss capital, Bern! Hoppla… Colour: straw. Nose: gentler. Apple peelings, greengages, green tea, and a slight hint of natural rubber… All very lovely. With water: pears take the lead. Over there, they’d call it Williamine. Mouth (neat): malty, fruity, with notes of cakes, apples, pear tart, and a touch of white pepper. Hoppla. With water: rounder, a bit more honeyed. Barley syrup, apple juice, honey, and so on. Finish: similar. Comments: you really can’t fault these young malts.
SGP:651 - 84 points. |

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Benriach 12 yo 2010/2022 (62.1%, Fadandel, refill hogshead, cask #3667) 
Finished in a refill sherry octave. Alright then… Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: the sherry octave was clearly extremely ‘refill’. Muscovado sugar, ripe apples, candy cane in generous 50-packets, and praline. With water: damp chalk, which is always enjoyable. Perhaps a hint of green walnut. Mouth (neat): the sherry is present but behaves well, unlike the rather rowdy pepper. At this strength, it definitely needs water. With water: oh, excellent—malty, fruity, very focused on barley, with a touch of slightly earthy liquorice. Finish: fairly long, more tense, with green apple and grapefruit. Green pepper and fudge linger in the aftertaste. Comments: true, there are hundreds of millions of litres of whisky like this sleeping in Scotland right now, but that doesn’t stop it from being very good. Simple, but very good.
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
Benriach is an excellent malt, but in these times, is it distinctive enough? And where have the mangos gone? Right then, one last one for today... |

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Benriach 15 yo 2008/2023 (51.9%, The Whisky Exchange, The Seasons – Summer, hogshead, cask #47387) 
Colour: pale gold. Nose: slightly oily (sunflower oil), with orange cake, ripe apple, a hint of hops, and the faint scent of a cigarette left burning in an ashtray. With water: wait, did they add a touch of mezcal? Jamaican rum? Olive oil? Mouth (neat): oh, very good. Earthy white fruits and a few roots surrounding celeriac—this is a Benriach that breaks away from the ordinary. With water: still very good, remaining rooty and saline. While it’s not lacking in fruitiness, it feels a touch un-Benriach. Finish: fairly long and rather saline, with a hint of miso beyond the ripe apples. Comments: I’m not saying Benriach has become a bit dull since the end of those superb old ‘tropical’ stocks, but variations like this are certainly welcome.
SGP:562 - 87 points. |
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February 3, 2025 |
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WF’s Little Duos,
today Mannochmore again |
Mannochmore is one of those distilleries almost nobody talks about—at least not since they stopped producing the famous Loch Dhu 10-year-old, the 'black whisky,' a long time ago. And it’s precisely for that reason that we try to sample Mannochmore as often as we can. It’s the antithesis of clickbait tastings I suppose, in any case, please only visit WF if you genuinely want to. Thank you.
(750g) |
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Mannochmore 8 yo 2015/2023 (58.9%, Whisky AGE, STR barrel, 266 bottles) 
Label by Taiwanese artist Hong Fu-Tian. Kudos for all this, we're all already so fed up with all the AI slop everywhere. Colour: light gold. Nose: this is very lovely, a young malt devoid of artifice, with ripe apple and mild ale. Water should do it good. With water: ripe plums join in—damsons, mirabelles, greengages… Love them all; they remind us of our childhoods. Mouth (neat): very fruity, firm yet cheerful, with slices of dried apple and pear, followed by Danish pastries. Not complicated, but it’s very good and wonderfully natural. With water: and there it is, very good indeed. A touch of honey emerges, with a slightly minty edge. Finish: medium in length, entirely reminiscent of an apple tart. And apple tart is life (what?). A faintly aniseed note lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: it does the job perfectly. Excellent for its young age.
SGP:641 - 86 points. |

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Mannochmore 11 yo 2012/2024 (60.2%, Signatory Vintage, Whisky Club Nantais, 1st fill oloroso sherry butt, cask #120, 654 bottles) 
A selection by the Whisky Club Nantais in France, which has brought together true whisky enthusiasts for many years. Colour: amber. Nose: it’s a civilised sherry, with not a trace of sulphur (no cabbage, leek, truffle, gunpowder, hardboiled egg, spent matches or the like). Instead, it leans towards millionaire’s shortbread, Mars bars, maple syrup, panettone, and a delightful mix of prunes and raisins. Very lovely, soft, and approachable. With water: complexity unfolds, bringing notes of egg broth with parsley, fresh coriander, miso, and mint… intriguing. Mouth (neat): of course, it’s a little powerful, but you already get Jaffa cakes, orangettes, and a touch of pepper and ginger adding liveliness. Think candied ginger coated in dark chocolate—how does that sound? With water: how amusing, as citrus fruits take centre stage, particularly honeyed orange marmalade. It feels more like ‘top cream sherry’ than oloroso, but who’s complaining? Finish: long, a touch more earthy and slightly dirty, which works perfectly. This grind of pepper from the mill seals the deal. Comments: one to classify among the small creatures that are big whiskies. Many far grander names don’t do better—in fact, quite the contrary. Oh, and well done, Signatory.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
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February 2, 2025 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
It's Sunday it’s Cognac day
Just a few, but we'll have more soon.
Domaine La Prenellerie (La Prenellerie) |
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Château de Triac 'Reserve de la Famille' (40%, OB, Tiffon, cognac, +/-2024) 
We had already tasted this expression ten years ago and liked it a lot (WF 88). Let’s discover this recent batch, rumoured to be around 50 years old… This is not specified on the label, but the Triac vineyard, owned by Tiffon, is located in the Fins Bois. Colour: dark gold. Nose: very stewed and jammy at the same time, marked by very ripe plums and even riper apricots, with an almost liqueur-like quality on the nose, almost muscat-like (VDN), and in fact reminiscent of a very old Pineau des Charentes of great lineage. Mouth: slightly burnt on the attack, with roasted raisins, then plenty of maple syrup and a sweet old Malaga touch. Toasted wood, walnut cake, then dark honey. The honeyed side only grows. The texture is not even that light at 40% ABV, but of course, it’s no steamroller. Finish: of medium length, grilled and caramelised. Some touches of violet in the aftertaste. Comments: a soft, rich, and very classic style, still very enjoyable despite the gentle strength. Score unchanged.
SGP:751 - 88 points. |

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Mauxion Sélection ‘XO’ (52.9%, OB for Wine4you, Grande Champagne, 150 bottles, 2024)
Colour: full gold. Nose: a very slightly metallic nose at first (old copper pot) and heavily marked by cherry jam, followed by black nougat and green tomato jam. Rather unusual and quite lovely. It then moves, more classically, towards dried figs and honey. With water: yes, that’s it—dried figs, honey, and currants. Mouth (neat): much more classic on the palate, with orange liqueur, honey, liquorice, and sultanas. Nothing to fault. With water: modern and classic at the same time, compact, slightly sweet, jammy, finishing on touches of lavender and chocolate (lavender chocolate—it’s excellent). Finish: long, on similar notes. A touch of anise and liquorice. Comments: a job done simply and to perfection for a ‘simple’ XO, excellent.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |

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French Brandy 30 yo 1990/2024 (46.3%, WhiskyNerds, Grande Champagne, cask #36, 169 bottles) 
Hold on, if it’s a Grande Champagne, it’s a Cognac, not just a ‘French Brandy’. Que pasa? A sort of playful affectation? Colour: dark amber. Nose: very unusual, on slightly mentholated toffee, cough syrup, a touch of oloroso, stewed fruits (blueberries), peonies, prunes, and even a drop of soy sauce… Mouth: slightly ‘cormagnac’ (Cognac + Armagnac) perhaps, with those prunes, some oak, chocolate, peach skin, and then a hint of mulled wine (cinnamon, star anise, clove) and liquorice wood. Finish: long, woodier, slightly resinous, finishing on After Eight thin mints. Though those seem out of fashion now, which I regret deeply. Oranges and ripe peaches also make an appearance right at the end, along with a faint touch of ‘sherried’ malt. Comments: an excellent and singular brandy. You could play guessing games with friends while polishing off the entire bottle.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
UPDATE: our friends the WhiskyNerds couldn't call it 'Cognac' because it was bottled in Scotland. Thanks Bram. |

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François Voyer ‘Lot 90 - L’Âge de ma Femme’ (47.8%, Malternatives Belgium, Grande Champagne, 402 bottles, 2024) 
L’âge de ma femme, my wife's age… Very well, but one shouldn’t use such qualifiers for vintages that are too old, should one? Coz domestic harmony is priceless. Colour: full gold. Nose: it’s very pure, fresh, compact, immediate, with a beautiful tango of flowers and fruits. Peaches, wisteria, yellow flowers, figs, and a touch of liquorice. It’s all quite flawless. Mouth: the same, but with the addition of new players—namely apples, ripe melon, and a bit of mint. Perfect. Finish: mandarins and orange blossom water sneak into this rather long finish. Honey. Comments: that was quick. Did we already mention it’s perfect?
SGP:651 - 90 points. |

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La Prenellerie ‘Lot 90’ (52.4%, Authentic Spirits, Bons Bois, 2024) 
100% ugni blanc from the Domaine la Prenellerie, which is located just near the Gironde estuary, in Epargnes. Their wines too have got an excellent reputation. Colour: full gold. Nose: a more herbal, waxy, fatty style, with stewed rhubarb, candle wax, and quite a bit of liquorice wood and balsamic notes creeping up the lower part of the glass towards your nostrils. A fine example of a spirit that’s worth nosing both from the top of the rim of the glass and from the lower part of the rim, and definitely not just in the middle as we usually do. A very beautiful nose. With water: almond milk, ripe apples, and marzipan join the mix. Mouth (neat): powerful, peppery, almost aggressive in its bitterness and herbal notes, yet it works splendidly, especially as saline touches begin to emerge and then intensify. Rarely have I tasted such a maritime or saline Cognac. With water: the same. It’s almost like a dry martini aged in wood and, of course, served with olives. Finish: long, slightly softened, yet green olives linger in the aftertaste, alongside liquorice wood. Comments: it would be a bit much to call this an ‘Islay’ (or Jamaican) of Cognacs, but you get the idea.
SGP:462 - 90 points. |
We'll have older cognacs next Sunday, if sweet Vishnu or Elon M. grants us life until then. |
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February 1, 2025 |
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January 2025 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Imperial 33 yo 1990/2024 (52.7%, Gordon & MacPhail, The Recollection Series #3, refill American oak hogshead, cask #9825, 63 bottles) - WF 92
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
Clynelish 24 yo (49.4%, Cadenhead, Sestante, +/-1989) - WF 98
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
Thy (48%, OB, Denmark, single malt, 2024) - WF 88
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
Domaine de Baraillon 1976-1979/2024 (42%, OB, Bas-armagnac for Passion for Whisky) - WF 92
Serge's thumbs up this month:
Longmorn 28 yo 1996/2024 (58.8%, The Antelope Macau & Kanpaikai Japan, refill hogshead, cask #17388, 196 bottles) - WF 92
Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
None (hurray!) |
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Best spirits Serge tried those weeks, 90+ points only
Benriach 28 yo 1976/2005 (53.7%, OB, hogshead, cask #8081, 189 bottles)
Benriach 33 yo 1991/2024 (55.9%, WhiskyLand, Decadent Drinks, second-fill sherry casks, 118 bottles)
Benriach 28 yo 1994/2022 (53.6%, OB, Cask Edition, LMDW, Virgin oak hogshead, cask #8127)
Benriach 27 yo 1996/2023 (42.9%, Milroy’s Vintage Reserve, hogshead, cask #43214, 221 bottles)
Benriach 26 yo 1997/2023 (61.2%, The Whisky Blues, hogshead, cask #7336, 165 bottles)
Benriach 25 yo 1997/2023 (54.1%, OB, Cask Edition, LMDW New Vibrations, Rum barrel, cask #7779, 196 bottles)
Macduff 37 yo 1973/2010 (46%, Mo Or collection, bourbon hogshead, release #22, 281 bottles)
Millburn 1981/2006 (46%, Mackillop’s Choice, sherry wood, cask #355)
Grosperrin – Bertandeau ‘Lot 71 – La Bonne cause’ (52.9%, Malternative Belgium, Petite Champagne, 323 bottles, 2023)
La Prenellerie ‘Lot 90’ (52.4%, Authentic Spirits, Bons Bois, 2024)
François Voyer ‘Lot 77 – Monsieur Doute’ (48.7%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 214 bottles)
François Voyer ‘Lot 90 - L’Âge de ma Femme’ (47.8%, Malternatives Belgium, Grande Champagne, 402 bottles, 2024)
Paul Beau ‘Lot 70 – En Danseuse’ (43.11%, Malternative Belgium, Grande Champagne, 290 bottles, 2024)
Marie Foucher ‘Lot 75 – L’esprit Nomade’ (50.18%, Malternative Belgium, Fins Bois, 324 bottles)


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