|
|
Hi, you're in the Archives, November 2024 - Part 1 |
|
|
|
November 13, 2024 |
|
|
It's Glenallachie Day on WF |
It may be the most spectacular relaunch of the last decade. When you think of the poor official 12-year-olds from the 1980s-1990s (WF 50) or even the NAS 'Distillery Edition' from the very end of the Pernod-Ricard era (around 2017, WF 80 – okay, that was already much better), you can appreciate how far they've come. |
(GlenAllachie Distillery) |
Admittedly, we're not always huge fans of the systematic use of finishing/re-racking in very active casks, but we've already tasted some excellent new releases. There are some new ones, but let's first pick one at random for the fun of it… |
|
Glenallachie 17 yo (50%, OB, Masters of Wood, Mizunara & Oloroso finish, 4,380 bottles, 2024)
Here comes the latest release, I believe. I must admit that the label 'Masters of Wood' rather conjures images of lumberjacks, carpenters, or cabinetmakers, but that’s marketing for you, isn’t it? No one really talks about the handling of the stills and their quirks these days. Remember those massive copper contraptions with odd piping found in ‘distilleries’? Colour: amber. Nose: reminiscent of a pristine cigar box (humidor). The now ubiquitous mizunara seems to bring touches of fresh rubber (new boots) and pinecones to the nutty, walnut liqueur profile of the oloroso. With water: notes of liquorice and a freshly tailored Harris tweed jacket. Mouth (neat): gentler, honeyed, with coffee liqueur and fir bud over sultanas. With water: beautifully balanced, showcasing undergrowth, raisins, and resinous nuances (bark, needles, sap, and so forth). A subtle hint of propolis and honey rounds it off. Finish: long, fairly rich but not overpowering at all. Comments: it feels a touch 'recipe-based', but isn’t that often the case with Michelin-starred dishes as well? A definite success, I’d say. Ah, mizunara…
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
|
Glenallachie 10 yo ‘Cask Strength Batch 11’ (59.4%, OB, ex-PX, oloroso and red wine, 2023)
Batch 10, also a 2023 release but with the older label, was very much to my liking (WF 88). In theory, I’m not usually drawn to whiskies seasoned with PX and red wine, but theory is there to be challenged, isn’t it? Colour: amber. Nose: strikingly wine-forward, yet surprisingly appealing. Butterscotch, malmsey, sticky toffee pudding, peanut fudge, and pineau (woof!), accompanied by an assortment of raisins. With water: lightens up, leaning more towards dried fruits, dates, figs, and slices of pear, with a hint of mint that adds a thin mint biscuit quality. Mouth (neat): very vinous indeed. A blend reminiscent of VDN, pineau, ratafia, coffee liqueur, and Malaga PX. In the background, notes of black tea and dark chocolate emerge. With water: the drier side takes over, dominated by chocolate and tea. Finish: very long, with mint, chocolate, tea, and a touch of wood. Comments: a ‘big boy’ whisky, seemingly freshly repainted. It’s quite impressive, I must admit.
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
|
Glenallachie 14 yo 2009/2024 (60.3%, OB, for The Whisky Exchange, sherry cask, cask #900609, 261 bottles)
A single cask, of course. It moves in the glass with the heft of a liqueur! Colour: amber. Nose: rosehip jam comes to mind first, alongside rosewood, a hint of Rhône white wine (marsanne and roussanne) and even muscat. Followed by white chocolate. With water: a veritable bundle of dried figs. Mouth (neat): very smooth and somewhat liqueur-like, leaning heavily into triple sec, Grand Marnier, with a splash of tonic water and a touch of lavender water. Quite the intriguing cocktail (really!). With water: becomes more balanced, bringing in pepper, chocolate, tobacco, malt (Ovaltine), and a dash of stout. Finish: long, dry, featuring tea, cinnamon, and chocolate. Comments: two whiskies in one—boisterous at the start but drier and more refined in the finish. Truly excellent in both aspects.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
|
Glenallachie 14 yo 2009/2024 (57.1%, OB, Germany exclusive, PX puncheon, cask #804302, 696 bottles)
One gets the feeling this will be similar… Colour: amber. Nose: goodness, it’s remarkably close! Notes of rose, perhaps viognier, white chocolate, pink pepper, and muscat. With water: the same impression holds. Mouth (neat): it’s virtually the same excellent whisky, or nearly so. One would need to taste a litre of each side by side to tease out the nuances—and no, that’s not happening. With water: same again. Finish: same, though a touch more peppery. Comments: the casks didn’t have similar capacities at all, so perhaps it’s just coincidence, but these two whiskies are strikingly similar.
SGP:561 - 88 points. |
|
Glenallachie 18 yo (46%, OB, +/-2024)
The label proudly states it’s ‘overflowing with their signature heather honey charm’, which does sound a bit Highland Park-esque, doesn’t it? We weren’t particularly fond of the ‘previous new 18’ about six years ago, but as DJT would say, some stuff must have been fixed, very much so. Colour: dark amber with reddish hues. Nose: prune juice, plum wine, figs, milk chocolate, PX sherry, molasses, peonies, jasmine, and spearmint. That said, it’s far from heavy or overbearing. Mouth: absolutely nothing like that former 18-year-old. We do quickly arrive at notes of aged wood, deeply steeped black tea, rocket leaves, and dark tobacco. There is a drying quality, but it stays within pleasant bounds. Hints of cold espresso. Finish: sherry that behaves itself, alongside orange marmalade with pepper, cinnamon, and ginger. Comments: not my favourite of the range so far, but there’s no denying it’s very well-crafted. It has a touch of that old M style, just before FO arrived, if that rings a bell. About twenty-five years ago.
SGP:461 - 86 points. |
|
Glenallachie 9 yo 2014/2023 (63.9%, Alambic Classique, first fill oloroso sherry butt, cask #23101, 637 bottles)
This looks like a real powerhouse and shouldn’t stray too far from the OBs, given its lineage. Colour: dark gold. Nose: shortbread, croissant, and butterscotch, with a touch of salty liquorice—what more could one want? I love this nose, which feels more compact and precise than some of the others. With water: chocolate and fudge bursting with raisins. Almost outrageous. Mouth (neat): perfect, like a whisky-infused piece of fudge generously drizzled with dark chocolate. With water: great vibrancy, showing notes of juniper, chocolate, clove, and pepper, plus five litres of Guinness. Or so I’d imagine; I doubt I’ve ever consumed five litres of Guinness in my whole life. Finish: long, just a tad tangier, leaning towards amontillado. Green walnuts and a gram of Dijon mustard. Any mustard would do, really. Comments: absolutely my kind of dram. Very well done, Bad Wörishofen, no wonder the place is, apparently, called ‘die Gesundheitsstadt’ (the healthy city).
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
|
Glenallachie 13 yo 2006/2019 (56.9%, OB, selected by Whisky-E, bourbon barrel, cask #26855, 238 bottles)
Ah, a break from the barrage of sherry casks with a return to a bourbon-matured version. Colour: straw. Nose: a delightful bouquet with a charming array of garden herbs like chervil and tarragon, showcasing the distillate’s layered complexity. Hints of rye, a touch of white beer, subtle rooty notes, fresh bread, sesame seeds, watercress, and sprouted alfalfa. It’s wonderfully inviting! With water: it retreats into fresher distillate notes, presenting pear, apple, and gooseberry – thoroughly enjoyable. Mouth (neat): absolutely spot on, featuring absinthe, clay, asparagus, lemon, and cider apple. With water: a burst of ripe, juicy pears returns to the fore. Finish: medium length, maintaining a profile of fresh fruit and earthy roots, with a touch of marzipan. Comments: truly impressed by this distillate, proving it doesn’t always need hyperactive casks to shine.
SGP:551 - 89 points. |
You’ve no doubt noticed how close these scores are, and I know it often leads well-meaning individuals to wonder, “Why use a 100-point scale if only 6 or 7 points are sometimes utilised in a single session?” Well, as I often say, think of a thermometer that ranges from 0 to 100 degrees. If you place it in a specific part of your anatomy, despite its broad range, it will only show between 35 and 42°C, because if you’re below or above that, you’d actually be dead. It’s the same idea. Quite, anyway, take that for what it’s worth—and let’s finish with a bit of something peaty… |
|
Meikle Toir 5 yo ‘The Original’ (50%, OB, +/-2023)
Ah, Scotland these days—everyone's having a go at every style imaginable: peated, lightly peated, heavily peated, not peated at all, PX finishes, shiraz, pineau, ruby port, STR, virgin American oak, virgin European oak, Bordeaux… and let’s not forget the legendary mizunara. It’s like they’ve all rolled out the machine guns. Now, Meikle Toir is Glenallachie’s foray into the peated realm, and we’ve encountered some cracking ones before. Colour: pale straw. Nose: not quite Islay, but it holds its own with hints of pine smoke, farm stables, eucalyptus, and the rugged scent of an old farm tractor—Scottish, naturally. With water: turns into a young Laphroaig impersonator. Mouth (neat): lovely and clean, just a touch sweet, and packed with ashes, curry spice, caraway, juniper, and coriander seeds—almost veering into gin territory. Wouldn’t be surprised if it made a smashing martini, olive and all. With water: remains spot on. Finish: fairly long, featuring bitter almonds, orgeat syrup, and a whiff of clams. Comments: prime material for a cocktail, methinks, not that I’m any sort of expert… All in all, expertly crafted, though it doesn’t quite reach the turbocharged heights of its sibling ‘The Turbo’—Glenallachie’s own Octomore-esque dram.
SGP: 565 - 85 points. |
Alright, we’ll stop here, adios. |
|
November 12, 2024 |
|
|
Nine new Benromachs (waxing lyrical)
This is probably the twenty-five-thousandth time we've made this little two-penny joke. Anyway, we are delighted to have a few new Benromachs lined up, and today is a good day to taste them – at least some of them. |
|
|
Benromach 10 yo (43%, OB, +/-2024)
We revisit the ten-year-old, a beloved dram that warrants our attention every three or four years, so we’ll keep this swift. It typically garners a WF 87 from us, even with its modest bottling strength. Colour: light gold. Nose: damp earth, pepper, leather, mustard, oranges, hay, capers, and wet chalk. Yes, spot on. Mouth: tobacco, smoked meat, cough lozenges, bitter oranges, then a briny martini with an olive. Finish: rather long, saline, with richly smoked bacon and a touch of lemon zest, leading to a second martini impression. Comments: all is well, familiar and delightful as ever, we’re happy to continue appreciating this.
SGP:463 – WF 87 points. |
|
Benromach 9 yo 2014/2024 ‘Contrasts: Unpeated’ (46%, OB, bourbon and sherry)
Is Benromach without peat like Jimmy Page without a guitar? Let’s find out... Colour: pale gold. Nose: well, this proves that Benromach’s character isn’t solely reliant on peat. It stays true to the distillery’s profile with a distinctive earthy quality, quite coastal with hints of clay and slate. There’s also a tiny touch of mustard and a note reminiscent of a certain Campbeltown distillery. Mouth: the richness of the 10-year-old makes a return, with leather, tobacco, ripe apples, and a smattering of dried fruits, particularly dried pear. Finish: not so different from ‘regular’ Benromach after all. Comments: I still prefer the 10-year-old, but this unpeated expression is both very good and intriguing. To be honest, there’s still a hint of smoke in there.
SGP:552 – 85 points. |
|
Benromach 10 yo 2014/2024 (59.6%, OB, Germany Exclusive, first fill sherry hogshead, cask #486, 305 bottles)
I found all the recent vintage single casks from 2011, 2012, or 2013 to be superb, whether matured in bourbon or sherry. Colour: gold. Nose: sulphur (let’s say intrinsic sulphur), asparagus, then walnuts, paraffin, lamp oil, chestnut cream, Iberian ham, fresh tobacco… Utterly charming with that wild edge we love. It’s fascinating how well the sulphur integrates—far from cabbage soup or town gas. With water: now hitting full-on shoe polish, plus a whiff of rabbit warren and well-hung grouse. Wild indeed. Mouth (neat): a powerhouse of ginger, bitter oranges, seawater, peat, green walnuts, and so forth. With water: a surprising freshness appears behind those intense, pronounced notes of leather, tobacco, and salt. The oranges shine through… Finish: very long, spicier, yet the oranges continue to set the tone and maintain the balance. Comments: we should be sending bottles to every capital in conflict. Alas, history shows that the worst leaders are often the ones who don’t drink, while they could.
SGP:563 – 89 points. |
|
Benromach 11 yo 2013/2024 (61.1%, OB, Germany Exclusive, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #835, 231 bottles)
I’ve got a bit of a hunch here... Colour: straw. Nose: as gentle as a lamb at first, with custard and orange cake, then comes chalk, leather, a touch of smoked fish, thyme, seaweed, camphor, and mint. With water: cigar smoke and a pu-ehr tea cake join the mix. Mouth (neat): an initial burst of fierce grapefruit and green and pink peppercorns, all draped in candle wax. With water: seawater, oysters, and lemons make an entrance. Finish: long, crisp, lively, but turning richer and fruitier towards the end. Always those citrus notes. Comments: perhaps it wasn’t obvious, but we adored this one; its purity and crystalline profile are truly stunning.
SGP:563 – 90 points. |
|
Benromach 10 yo 2014/2024 (60.2%, LMDW, Artist #14, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #384, 244 bottles)
What a lovely label! Has a touch of COBRA about it, I think. Colour: straw. Nose: a touch gentler and more reserved than the previous one, leaning towards pastries and croissants. I suspect water will be transformative... With water: not dramatically so; it remains impeccably refined and pure, now with added ashes alongside the polish. A touch of Organza. Mouth (neat): almost identical to the 2013 official release for Germany on the palate, which is excellent news. Waxes, grapefruit, salinity, grape seed oil—it’s superb. With water: reminiscent of ‘Campbeltown’ at the same age. Waxes, oils, citrus, hints of hydrocarbons, and a touch of fern. Finish: stays consistent for a good while, with a bit of eucalyptus. Comments: like the best batches of Sp******k 10-year-old.
SGP:563 – 90 points. |
|
Benromach 19 yo 2005/2024 (59%, LMDW, Artist #14, first fill sherry butt, cask #164, 264 bottles)
La Maison du Whisky is featuring several new Benromach in this delightfully posh series (which I quite enjoy, haha). Colour: straw. Nose: there must be some mistake—this is high-grade manzanilla, just a touch stronger than usual. Walnuts, curry, mustard, brine, and wild crab apples. Bring on the langoustines, please. With water: tiger balm, eucalyptus, and wintergreen join in… Convenient, as I could use a bit of muscle relief. Mouth: what a sherry cask! Fino, perhaps? Curry, walnuts, salt, shellfish, mustard, chalk—all present and correct. With water: an exceptional whisky. More menthol and salted liquorice appear. Finish: long and oily, yet pure and highly mineral. Comments: I have something to tell you…
SGP:453 – 91 points. |
Here it is—I am currently putting together a new list of my personal ‘grand cru’ whiskies. It’s far from complete and it could take years, but I can already share a brief extract. Bear in mind, some are missing, but as it stands, you’ll see that Benromach holds a prominent place on the list. Ardbeg (Scotland), Ardnamurchan (Scotland), Ben Nevis (Scotland), Benromach (Scotland), Brora (Scotland), Chichibu (Japan), Clynelish (Scotland), Daftmill (Scotland), Domaine des Hautes Glaces (France), Hellyers Road (Australia), Millstone/Zuidam (Netherlands), Port Ellen (Scotland), Shizuoka (Japan), Smögen (Sweden), Springbank (Scotland). Nothing earthshattering yet, to be continued… |
|
Benromach 21 yo 2002/2024 (56.6%, OB, Capital Whisky Club Exclusive, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #971, 170 bottles)
A special release for the discerning Capital Whisky Club in London, promising a dram of exceptional pedigree. Colour: light gold, shimmering with an enticing glow (lol). Nose: intriguingly oily at first, with a fleeting metallic edge and an unexpected, whimsical touch of ultra-premium cat biscuits (yes, really) intertwined with dried floral bouquets. This idiosyncratic opening soon unfurls into a more traditional Benromach profile, rich in citrus zest, chalky undertones, and a breath of moss. With water: fare thee well, feline fancy; a classic Benromach emerges with signature notes of shoe polish, lemon, paraffin, earth, and chalk. Mouth (neat): spot-on, bursting with peppery warmth, lemon oil, chalk dust, green apples, and a whisper of briny oysters. Absolutely no hint of any sort of cat snacks here. With water: pristinely refined, echoing industrial oils, lemon peel, flinty minerality, and crisp apple. Finish: long, balancing weighty, oily depth with a taut, clean line. An accomplishment few distilleries can replicate; Springbank comes to mind. Comments: disregard any feline whims; this is another sumptuous Benromach to savour.
SGP:552 – 91 points. |
|
Benromach 22 yo 2002/2024 (56.6%, LMDW, Artist #14, first fill sherry hogshead, cask #22602102, 341 bottles)
A strikingly mature Benromach with a flourish worthy of its Artist series presentation. Colour: full gold, deep and inviting. Nose: age is gracefully stepping in, with whispers of rancio setting the tone alongside aged pu-ehr tea, a well-kept cigar box, and the exotic warmth of thuja wood reminiscent of a Marrakesh souk. Pine needles and cedar wood weave through, with hints of earthy bidis adding a subtle wisp of smoke. With water: rare and luxurious varnishes emerge, conjuring memories of aged bourbons like Very Old Fitzgerald—utterly breath-taking. Mouth (neat): simply outstanding! Layers of walnut wine, ancient herbal liqueurs, venerable chartreuse, and a rich orange-and-bergamot fudge come together in an intricate dance of flavours. With water: so beautiful it’s almost overwhelming, bursting with intensely concentrated spices and herbs, evoking a distinctly Eastern mystique. Finish: immensely long, leaving impressions of fine varnish, resinous gum, toasted sesame, salty liquorice, and a delicate, almost precious broth. Comments: a sublime, tertiary-aged Benromach of monumental stature. The artistry isn’t limited to the bottle’s label; it sings within the whisky itself (forgive the cliché, S.). And what an expression of sherry!
SGP:562 – 92 points. |
One last one. You shouldn't overindulge in (very) good things. |
|
Benromach 25 yo 1998/2024 (50.3%, LMDW, Artist #14, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #197, 160 bottles)
Among the very first distillations carried out by the new custodians, Gordon & MacPhail. It’s always a fascinating exercise to unearth these early intentions—akin to the initial ‘new’ Bruichladdichs distilled just a couple of years after this venerable Benromach. What a masterstroke by G&M at the time. Colour: gold. Nose: a part of that trademark tautness and crisp profile has mellowed; instead, we encounter aged fir wood, menthol, balms, and exceedingly ripe bananas with a hint of patchouli… One for the boomer crowd? With water: damp autumn leaves, soapwort, an old cardigan adorned with glam badges—T-Rex, Sweet, Bowie, the whole shebang. Mouth (neat): an improvement over the nose, provided one has a soft spot for mead and slightly aged olive oil. There’s lovely beeswax and a delicate orange peel dipped in chocolate. With water: to be frank, it’s delightfully charming, but not quintessentially ‘Benromach’, as if they hadn’t yet perfected the formula that now works wonders. Was it an early, different peat protocol, perhaps? Pure speculation… Finish: medium in length, with stewed fruits and herbal infusions. Comments: unquestionably excellent, though I’d say its more recent siblings have outshone it considerably. Apologies, Benromach!
SGP:541 - 87 points. |
Nine Benromach, that’s quite something, right. |
|
November 11, 2024 |
|
|
For a Few More Lowlands
When you think that at one time there were barely more than Auchentoshan and Glenkinchie still in operation. Thank goodness there are now far more Lowland whiskies, though the one we continue to miss with desperate longing is St Magdalene. Let’s take a look at what we have and, most importantly, no more than one expression per distillery, just this once. |
|
|
Daftmill 12 yo 2011/2023 ‘Summer Batch Release’ (46%, OB, 1st fill bourbon barrels, 6,550 bottles)
Twenty-seven bourbon casks were involved here, which might explain why this release is still around over a year post-launch. Or perhaps it’s that rather ‘2023’ price tag, a touch optimistic. I do appreciate how they label themselves as ‘a seasonal distillery’. Colour: pale gold. Nose: beautifully deep, somewhat fermentative, with melon sorbet, papaya, custard, and small pink and blue bananas dusted with crushed chalk. Not the first time I’ve thought Daftmill has a nose reminiscent of a Western Chichibu. Mouth: very pleasant, if not as ultra-precise as their single casks, yet those slightly green spices and champagne-like yeasts work a treat. It then veers towards bubblegum and pear-and-pineapple-flavoured jellybeans. Finish: a hint of anticipated limoncello, duly delivered. A touch of fresh herbs and green tea round things off nicely. Comments: I really do enjoy this large batch, which evokes youthful Rosebanks on the palate, as often.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
Rosebank? That’s a good idea. It’s true that we’ve had quite a bit of Rosebank lately... |
|
Rosebank 32 yo 1991/2024 (51.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, The Recollection Series #3, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #2114, 141 bottles)
This venerable 1991 probably adds another gem to a lineage that has proven exceptional at various ages. Colour: gold. Nose: unmistakably Rosebank in its elegant fruitiness, though comparisons with other greats come to mind. Glorious waves of mangoes and passion fruits lead the charge, followed by fragrant orange blossom and ripe yellow melon. A bright zestiness of lemons and tangerines emerges, interwoven with acacia honey, a hint of chalk, and the comforting flakiness of fresh croissants. Simplicity belies brilliance here, with an almost dazzling precision that makes one muse that such barrels could endure yet another 32 years—alas, not this one. With water: a more fermentative edge, offering notes of freshly baked bread, a whiff of gueuze, and lemony hops. Mouth (neat): a strikingly clear and zesty profile persists, seemingly untouched by age. A vivid array of citron, lemon zest, and grapefruit pulp dances alongside a drizzle of acacia honey and a soft touch of rosehip tisane, which gently rounds the edges. It’s surprising to think this came from a first fill bourbon cask, given its elegant restraint reminiscent of a refined refill. With water: it becomes herbaceous, with pronounced fresh bread notes, before grapefruit asserts itself more boldly. Finish: long, with a remarkable and lively tension for its age—pure Rosebank in essence. Comments: it would be intriguing to see a real expert write a few lines on the lifespan expectations of a whisky at birth, factoring in both cask and distillate.
SGP:661 - 90 points. |
Since we were talking about fruits... |
|
Littlemill 27 yo 1988/2016 (57.3%, Alambic Classique, Rare & Old Selection, dark sherry cask, cask #16305, 153 bottles)
Ah, back when we called sherried whiskies simply ‘dark’ or ‘pale’—none of that ‘ex-bodega amontillado-seasoned rejuvenated hogshead’ business. Those were indeed simpler, better days, weren't they? Colour: a rich cognac amber. Nose: Earl Grey tea, but not just any—an exceptional one. The classic, exuberant fruitiness of these Littlemill vintages intertwines seamlessly with the sherry, placing us right at the counter of a patisserie in the early morning. Warm pain aux raisins, orange cake, lemon cookies, and even brie (the patisserie, not the cheese) soaked in kirsch. That’s a personal favourite, for those who mind my birthday is 20th September. Subtle notes of shrivelled grape berries, like a vin de paille. With water: a refreshing turn with limestone, lemon, and crisp green apple, suggesting a firming up. Mouth (neat): an indulgence, pure and simple. The distillate shines with a sharp, almost gritty lemon that’s utterly enchanting—the finest lemon essence we've had in ages. With water: a return to a more refined palate, perfectly balanced with citrus and sultanas. Finish: long, cheerful, and fruit-laden, featuring pink grapefruit and a delightful touch of honey, with that Earl Grey making a final, graceful appearance. Has the sherry bowed out? Comments: immensely enjoyable and deceptively drinkable. Beware!
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
|
Dalrymple 11 yo 2012/2024 (57.1%, Watt Whisky, blended malt, hogshead, 194 bottles)
Dalrymple is a trade name for Ailsa Bay, and while our experience with this distillate is limited, a superb Dalrymple from Tri Carragh once left a strong impression. The official Ailsa Bay releases, however, have often been as cold as a North Sea flounder – if I may. Colour: pale gold. Nose: delightful, with an intriguing mix of tequila and gentian—no jest here. Ripe pear and apple follow, creating a harmonious bouquet. A touch of medicinal quality emerges, accompanied by green walnuts and a hint of mustard. With water: develops towards a fine fino sherry. Mouth (neat): very good indeed! Green apple, fir smoke, plasticine, Sichuan pepper, mustard, mezcal, and radish—spicy with a slight bite. With water: the fruitiness becomes more pronounced, but a peppery edge also takes hold. An unusual mix of sultanas and white pepper surprises the palate. Finish: long, with smoke overlaying those peppered sultanas, making for a slightly more challenging conclusion. Comments: the peat runs subtly throughout, never dominating but always present. A complex and captivating dram, perfect for a blind guessing game among friends.
SGP:465 – 87 points. |
We’ll finish off with a little independent Auchentoshan... |
|
Auchentoshan 15 yo 2007/2024 (55.7%, Lady of the Glen, Ruby Port finish, cask #4204)
A triple-distilled dram with a ruby port finish, which could indeed evoke a lively fairground. The use of ruby port is always intriguing, considering it typically ages for only a brief period in large, well-worn casks to maintain the wine's fresh, fruity character. One would be surprised if any genuine ruby port casks were employed for maturing or seasoning Scotch. But the proof, as they say, is in the pudding... Colour: apricot. Nose: predictably fresh and fruity, leading with peach, greengages, cherries, and a hint of raspberry eau-de-vie. Rather delightful, though it leans towards an assembled or pre-mixed vibe. With water: herbal notes and leafy undertones emerge, integrating into the profile. Mouth (neat): a lively mix of budding twigs, fruit skins, cherries, apples, pink pepper, and grapefruit – water is almost a necessity here. With water: it develops into a pleasing concoction with shades reminiscent of an Apérol or Campari, perfect for a potential spritz. Finish: fairly long, carrying cherries and green pepper. Comments: not entirely the signature Auchentoshan markers one might seek, but certainly superior to the distillery’s NAS finishes. Ah, those red Bordeaux woods!
SGP:651 – 81 points. |
|
November 10, 2024 |
|
|
|
|
A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
The landscape around Château Whiskyfun has changed: the leaves have fallen from the vines, the few fields lie fallow, and a peaceful silence hangs over the small town, interrupted only by the distant cries of a few migratory birds and the barking of a dog waiting for its owner outside the bakery door. And here we are, with a few rums on the table (what a rubbish introduction, S.!). |
At Poisson on Marie-Galante.
|
|
Père Labat ‘Le Rhum Soleil’ (55%, OB, Marie-Galante, agricole, +/-2023)
By Distillerie Poisson. The label calls it ‘rhum brun’, yet its appearance is more akin to a pale straw. Aged – or more precisely, gently oxygenated – for six months in a large oak vat. Colour: white wine. Nose: a delightful burst of green and black olives that one can’t help but relish, laced with diesel fumes and strong adhesive, alongside ultra-ripe bananas and the lively scent of fresh sugarcane juice. A superb distillate with merely a touch of air, blissfully free from any intrusive woodiness. With water: minimal change, save for a subtle shift towards a brinier profile with an added sweetness and a touch more cane juice. Mouth (neat): bold and bracing, with notes of anise joining lemon and olives. A thrilling sharpness indeed. With water: earthy, slightly tarred cane emerges, accompanied by lemon and grapefruit zest. Finish: long and enduring, dominated by a triumphant return of olives, hints of seawater, and a follow-up of lemon peel. Comments: Père Labat is consistently excellent, and this expression shines particularly well in its natural state. Or in uncountable numbers of Ti' Punches.
SGP:462 - 87 points. |
Since we're talking about amber or straw tones… |
|
Neisson ‘Profil Equilibre Carole Aurore’ (49%, OB, Martinique, LMDW Foundations, 2024)
An intriguing blend of three distinct rums aged between 12 and 24 months in new American oak casks. Neisson, known for preserving the purity of its distillate, faces the test of this 'wood technology' experiment. Colour: pale gold. Nose: decidedly softer, more refined (although Martinique and Guadeloupe have been anything but civilised lately), with hints of melon sorbet, banana, and sweet liquorice, followed by subtle notes of courgette flower, honeysuckle, and yuzu. Fresh turmeric and a touch of verbena emerge before the fresh cane steps in assertively. Mouth: well-balanced indeed, showcasing lemon, a delightful salinity, liquorice, and a whisper of fruit-tree sawdust or perhaps sandalwood? The woody notes harmonise seamlessly with the salted liquorice. Finish: long and saline, with a manzanilla-like character that we so admire. Comments: an excellent young Neisson, expertly crafted as expected, though perhaps somewhat overshadowed by the pristine purity of the Père Labat.
SGP:561 – 85 points. |
|
Islay Rum ‘Barrel Aged’ (46%, OB, UK, 2024)
We’ve tasted a few rums aged in Islay whisky casks before (a bit of a Frankenstein concept, if you ask me, even when it’s well-executed and rather enjoyable). This one hails from the esteemed Vintage Malt Whisky Company, a reputable bunch, and is crafted at the old lemonade works opposite Port Ellen Distillery. Quite the invigorating setting, no doubt. With Islay not exactly renowned for sugarcane fields, one presumes imported molasses or cane 'honey' must be used. It brings to mind ‘Ninefold,’ a decent Scottish rum we scored at WF 79. Colour: straw/pale gold. Nose: well, it’s absolutely charming! You’d almost suspect a few nocturnal litres of Port Ellen were siphoned off (if only Port Ellen had restarted earlier, one might seriously wonder). Spruce wood, tarmac, petrol, green olives, baker’s yeast, charcoal smoke, seawater, and a couple of oysters… it’s delightful, straddling English and French styles with a clear Islay twist. Mouth: ah yes, here we find peat ash intertwined with tar, seawater, and those iconic olives, dotted with a few lemon zest shavings. Likely the work of coastal casks lending their magic to the maturation. Finish: long, smoky, ashy. Comments: Jamaica has often been dubbed ‘the Islay of rum,’ but never has Islay been called ‘the Jamaica of whisky’—there’s a first time for everything. All in all, we find it truly enjoyable and not as ‘transitional’ as one might think; a visit to the distillery is certainly in order.
SGP:563 – 85 points. |
|
Tierra Madre ‘Island Signature’ (40%, Odevie, Guatemala, +/-2024)
Despite its lofty aging in the Guatemalan highlands, which might challenge its 'island rum' designation, does that really matter? When Guatemala is mentioned, names like Botran and Zacapa spring to mind—Darsa, in other words. Let’s see if this one follows the sugary path. Colour: gold. Nose: yes, there’s grapefruit and pineapple liqueur, with hibiscus and ylang-ylang notes, presenting as rather inviting and fresh. So, as far as the nose goes, check! Mouth: it’s a touch sweet, light, and slightly herbaceous, featuring cane and cane syrup, a hint of candied sugar, and whispers of baked apple with cinnamon. Pleasant enough, though decidedly light. Finish: short, with a hint of bitterness and a touch of liquorice wood. Comments: far less cloying than the typical Guatemalan rums we’re familiar with (and not ones generally endorsed by the World Dentist Organisation).
SGP:551 – 78 points. |
|
Grays Very Special Orange Product 4 yo (50%, Vagabond Spirit, Mauritius, 2024)
An intriguing creation indeed. This is a 51-month-old rhum traditionnel from Mauritius, given a final flourish with a 2-month finish in Cognac casks (common enough) and ex-orange liqueur casks from Prunier (rarely seen). Reduced meticulously, ‘drop by drop,’ from 64% to 50%, in line with the creed of true artisans. Colour: full gold. Nose: the world is divided into two camps (and not just Democrats and Republicans)—those who adore grand orange liqueurs of all kinds, and those who’ve never tried them. This affable rum bridges that divide nicely. Notes of orange, orange blossom, acacia honey, with hints of chalk and earth. With water: even more orange blossom, fresh panettone, orange cream, and orange cupcakes emerge. Mouth (neat): more complex on the palate, with notes reminiscent of marc and berry eau-de-vie, all layered with honey and orange marmalade. It’s potent. With water: a subtle medicinal touch that’s rather intriguing. Overall, it works seamlessly. Finish: medium length, gentle, featuring peach yoghurt, likely an influence from the Cognac. A quinine-like note lingers in the aftertaste. Comments: approaching the realm of spiced rum but far more intricate than most of the few I’ve tasted. I had my doubts, but it’s genuinely very good.
SGP:741 – 83 points. |
|
T.D.L. 14 yo 2009/2024 (63%, The Roots for Dram4ALS, Trinidad, bourbon cask, cask #4, 201 bottles)
This special bottling supports a noble cause, with proceeds aiding the fight against Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis in honour of Alain. Colour: amber. Nose: a blend that oscillates between the exuberant fruitiness of some TDLs and the more industrial, petrol-like qualities of certain Caronis, if that paints a picture. Whiffs of hair lotion and hairspray join ripe mango, banana, and an abundance of liquorice. Hard to delve deeper at this high ABV, however. With water: salted liquorice fudge (visually reminiscent of coal), fresh rubber, shoe polish, and the anticipated olives appear. This Trinidadian rum leans into Jamaican territory. Mouth (neat): a heady mix of petrol, salt, overripe mango, pineapple eau-de-vie, pepper, and varnish. And, notably, a significant ethanol punch. With water: an exotic fruit medley meets seawater and shoe polish—unexpectedly delightful. Finish: very long and very saline. Comments: quite the formidable beast; if you acquire a bottle, ensure your pipette is at hand (and know you’re exceptionally classy for supporting Dram4ALS).
SGP:662 – 90 points. |
|
Hampden 8 yo 2016/2024 ‘LROK’ (65%, Rest & Be Thankful for Wu Dram Clan and Kirsch Import, cask #4, 2024)
Colour: gold. Nose: I’ll be brief. Brake dust (think Parisian metro), pickle brine, green olives, preserved lemon, Atlantic sea spray (why not?), and borderline overripe mango. With water: just unmistakably Hampden. A bit like Ardbeg, where naming the distillery says it all. New rubber. A friend once quipped about “a latex S&M suit,” though we haven’t spoken to him in ages—thankfully. True story. Still, you get the drift, I hope. Mouth (neat): sublime salted lemon infused with petrol and ash. Quite the powerhouse, but you did notice the strength, right? With water: somewhere between fine fino sherry, praline, and salted lemon leading straight to agave spirit or even sotol, for variety’s sake. Note to self: try a few sotols one Sunday, space permitting. Finish: very long, with gherkins, olives, and salmiak. An unexpected touch of vanilla in the aftertaste. Comments: a magnificent young Hampden, tough to beat in its league.
SGP:463 – 90 points. |
|
HD Jamaica 2013/2024 (60.3%, The Whisky Jury for Care for Craft Spirits and Whisky-Age, refill barrel, cask #434985, 270 bottles)
Just a reminder: here, ‘HD’ doesn’t mean Harley-Davidson. Colour: pale gold. Nose: oh, here we go—ash galore (cigar, resinous wood, charcoal), seamlessly intertwined with lemon, tar, brine, and petrol. Plus hints of slate and basalt. That’s it, but it’s more than enough. I must confess (for the umpteenth time), I love this profile. With water: that exhaust pipe notes of an old car burning a bit of oil, familiar from certain Hampden releases. Add carbon paper, old books, a hint of yellow curry, and mango chutney… there’s remarkable depth as you dig in. Mouth (neat): almost binary, dominated by salted lemon. Wonderful, but knowing it’ll shine with water… With water: indeed, classic, flawless, peppery and saline, with just the right amount of rubber, tar, glue, and lemon. Finish: same story, it lingers for ages. Unexpected icy mint touches on the back-palate. Comments: even more intensely saline than the already stellar 2016. Proof that age truly matters, even for these powerhouse rums.
SGP:473 – 91 points. |
Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far |
|
November 9, 2024 |
|
|
|
Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Some Springbank
What a week. Let’s have some Springbank. |
|
|
|
|
Springbank 10 yo 1990/2000 (43%, Blackadder, cask #102, 397 bottles)
Colour: very pale, almost new make. Nose: new make indeed! Crushed grass, petrol, agave distillate, freshly milled cereals, vase water, clay and a slightly lactic and waxy combination. Fun, but some distance from contemporary Springbank. Mouth: it has this slightly lactic acidic quality on the palate, along with citrus rinds, olive oil, face cream, mineral oil. It’s rather soft but at the same time a little chaotic. Finish: medium, recovers one or two points with a nicely mineral and slightly mechanical quality. Comments: one of those glimpses into Springbank’s ‘unlikely’ era. It’s charming distillate, but overall much softer and a little whackier than we are used to with Springbank these days.
SGP: 441 - 82 points. |
|
|
|
Springbank 8 yo 1976/1984 (43%, OB for Japan, sherry, 18000 bottles)
Colour: pale straw. Nose: clean, taut, mineral and gently coastal. Behind that a subtle waxiness, soft notes of hessian, motor oil, freshly laundered fabrics and oily sheep wool. There’s a few white flowers in the mix too. Another lighter shade of Springbank, but there’s much more familiar DNA on display here. Mouth: nicely chalky and lemony with a crisp, dry profile that continues this feeling of tension and poise. More white flowers, some crystallised honey, more soft waxy notes and some grassy olive oil. Finish: long, a little sooty, mineral, still nicely drying and with a peppery aftertaste. Comments: another delicate one, but with more clear Springbank character. A fragile but undeniably charming take on this era’s distillate.
SGP: 362 - 87 points. |
|
|
|
Springbank 27 yo 1992/2020 (48.4%, OB Private Bottling, cask #273, refill hogshead, 186 bottles)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: immediately superb! Wonderfully dry, rooty, turfy peat smoke, hessian canvas, beeswax, seawater, heather honey and impressions of aged mead and old Benedictine. Probably my favourite ‘style’ of Springbank. Mouth: once again, superb peat character, only here it manifests as cleaner, sharper, more brittle and tightly structured. Dry, mineral, smokiness with many coastal inflections, ink, sheep wool, coal scuttle and beach pebbles. A few hints of gorse flower and lemon peel too, all wrapped up in a very rich, waxy texture. Finish: long, very slightly mentholated, more bitter citrus notes, celery salt, more crisp and drying peat smoke. Then herbal notes in the aftertaste and medicinal notes. Comments: pristine and immaculate mature Springbank, with almost Longrow-esque peat character at times.
SGP: 464 - 92 points. |
|
|
|
Springbank 16 yo 1977/1993 (53.9%, OB, cask #332)
Colour: white wine. Nose: amazing pure saltiness, hyper-coastal and brilliantly fresh and sharp. Citrus juices, brine, capers and then exotic fruit notes begin to emerge as well. Wee notes of guava and kumquat. Keeps opening up with fresh grist, cereals and waxes. With water: muddled green herbs, white coastal flowers, pasta water, fresh shellfish, lemon oil and gentian. Mouth: oilier and more rounded than expected, but still with fantastic coastal and saline qualities, superbly sharp mineral aspects, lemon juice, wool, wet pebbles, chalk and terrific waxiness. With water: gets fatter, waxier, saltier, more of these minerals, going towards petrol now really. Also more citrus qualities, rinds, piths, juices etc… Magnificent distillate firing on all cylinders! Finish: very long, still superbly fresh and salty, dried seaweed, soy sauce, a very brittle and subtle peat smoke and things like tarragon, anchovy paste and caraway. Comments: another level still, I really adore these bone-dry, hyper pure Springbanks. This one recalls that legendary OB 21yo 100 proof bottling from the 1960s we tried a couple of years back.
SGP: 463 - 93 points. |
|
|
|
Springbank 28 yo 1966/1994 (55.6%, The Bottlers, cask #1018)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: orange marmalade and varnish, in the best sense! Resinous fir woods, camphor, beeswax, cedar wood boxes full of unlit cigars and Vegemite. A seriously umami and resinous style of sherry cask. Continues to open up with more mentholated notes of eucalyptus and dried mint, linseed oil, more hardwood resins, more camphor and cheng pi aged orange peels. With water: orange liqueur, herbal cocktail bitters, a top class Old Fashioned cocktail! Also some hints of stem ginger and apricot jam. Mouth: powerful arrival, very punchy, powerfully on dried oranges, bitter marmalade, quince jelly, some very old Armagnac and then wood spices and a slightly tannic edge that feels like strong brewed Darjeeling. Amazing orange notes throughout, but the wood does exert quite an influence. With water: big and emphatically waxy and peppery now, some natural tar extracts, wood resins, camphor, putty and lime leaf. Finish: long, peppery, waxy, slightly medicinal and some dark fruits stewed in old Armagnac. Comments: given the pedigree of both the distillate and the bottler, our expectations were probably set a little high. This is on the wood side, but it has some spectacular moments. Ach, who am I kidding, while it may not be up amongst the best 1960s Springbanks, it’s a great dram nonetheless.
SGP: 462 - 90 points. |
|
|
Let’s invert the usual order of things and finish with a Hazelburn digestif this time. |
|
|
|
Hazelburn 15 yo ‘Online Tasting Week’ (54.9%, OB, Oloroso sherry casks, bottled 2021, 1174 bottles)
Colour: amber. Nose: a rather ‘Springbank’ style of sherry, which is earthy, ruddy, full of pickled walnuts, motor oil, game meats and funny things like mint tea, pork scratchings, liquorice root and old Madeira. It’s good though, I like this quite organic and meaty profile. With water: rounder, drier and more cohesive now. Lovely earthiness coming through, bitter dark chocolate, prunes in Armagnac and black pepper. Mouth: rather sweeter than expected, Bovril with bramble jam, ha! But indeed, it does have a rather jammy quality, cherry distillate with raspberry cordial, cassis and touches of boozy trifle, then with verbena and underlying notes of bitter herbs and a touch of gentian root. All the while there’s this background buzz of leathery, gamey sherry with many walnuts, rancio and balsamic notes. With water: excellent, gathers a little balancing dryness, more crushed walnuts, old balsamic, marzipan, wormwood, camphor, nutmeg and more big notes of prunes, date molasses and clove. Finish: long, earthy, many tertiary notes of roots, herbs, strongly brewed dark teas, liquorice and mulch tobacco leaf. Comments: not all Springbank sherry casks are on the mark, but this one works very well. Love the evolution with water.
SGP: 561 - 89 points. |
|
|
|
Hazelburn 8 yo 1997/2006 (59.2%, OB Private Bottling, cask #1037, sherry)
Colour: deep reddish amber. Nose: wow, really a big mess of Bovril, Maggi, raspberry liqueur, chocolate sauce, mole, freshly sawn rosewood and many evolving tertiary notes such as old Burgundian Pinot Noir, mushroom powder and wintergreen. Extremely impressive! With water: a little juicer but also a rather thrilling salty side emerges too. Superbly umami, with bouillon, honey roast vegetables, more Maggi and game salami. Mouth: what a cask! Magnificent arrival, extremely textural and mouth-filling, dark chocolate sauce, date molasses, raisins, dark fruit compotes, cassis, natural tar, salted liquorice and treacle sponge pudding. This one really strikes the perfect balance between these jammy, fruitier components and the deeper, darker, earthier and gamey qualities that seem to present in Springbank’s sherry casks. With water: perfect balance of dryness, salinity and many dark fruits, also preserved citrus fruits, eucalyptus, menthol tobaccos and more treacle. Finish: long, more dark chocolate with sea salt, prunes, very old Fins Bois cognac and more treacle, Maggi and a growing rancio in the aftertaste. Comments: some sort of miraculous sherry cask, and a very lucky cask owner! What’s great is that you still feel some Springbank/Hazelburn character coming through. No doubt bottled at exactly the right age.
SGP: 562 - 90 points. |
|
|
Big thanks to KC and Stefan. |
|
|
|
November 8, 2024 |
|
|
WF’s Little Duos, today Mannochmore again
Ever since the terrible things we wrote about Loch Dhu 10 years old, back in the Malt Maniacs days, I’ve felt somewhat indebted to the Mannochmore distillery which, after all, had only supplied the base distillate, as I recall. In any case, we seize every opportunity to taste Mannochmore, even though, let’s admit it, the thirsty masses couldn’t care less. Not great for WF’s traffic, but we couldn’t care less either... |
|
Mannochmore 12 yo (46%, James Eadie, Small Batch, first fill bourbon hogshead, casks #6697 & 2344, 1,035 bottles, 2024)
I do love the way James Eadie include little sprigs of barley on their labels—soooo charming and delightfully old-fashioned, wouldn’t you agree? Colour: pale gold. Nose: a very barley-forward expression to begin with, fresh yeast and newly cut oak, then hints of banana peel, wet limestone, and straight-up grist (pronounced with a Rowan Atkinson-esque flourish, naturally). Oh, and I nearly forgot to mention some sliced apple. Mouth: apple and lemon take the lead here, followed by slightly bitter herbs, a touch of artichoke, green pepper, and aubergine, before plenty of green peppercorn kicks in. It's a very rustic, malt-driven, countryside kind of palate, deeply connected to nature. How could one possibly be against that? Finish: long, green, still rather bitter, with lemon zest lingering on the aftertaste. Comments: it's a bit rough around the edges, but we really like that. Probably an excellent base for a cocktail that needs to be very malt-forward.
SGP:461 - 85 points. |
|
Mannochmore 11 yo 2012/2024 ‘100 Proof’ (57.1%, Signatory Vintage, 1st fill oloroso sherry butts, Edition #13)
A recent series from Signatory that I find rather clever and very fitting for the times. Colour: gold. Nose: glue and varnish upfront, green walnuts, mustard, then a delightful butterscotch sauce and a touch of beeswax polish. It’s so spot-on in its ‘oloroso’ profile, it almost feels like a nose designed by ChatGPT! (apologies, Signatory Vintage). With water: basil comes through, alongside sage and a hint of green clay. Mouth (neat): pure green walnuts, mustard, pepper, turmeric, green apples, and a touch of curry. But we won’t drag Chat-whatever into it again! With water: it turns into something like a Scottish-Andalusian pesto. Finish: long, quite bitter once more, in a similar vein to the ex-bourbon version, but this time with an oloroso twist. Comments: we are practically unable to decide between the two version. Lovely.
SGP:461 - 85 points. |
|
November 7, 2024 |
|
|
WF's Little Duos, today Knockando
There are indeed some independent Knockandos, notably by Signatory Vintage, but most of what is available comes from the official releases, which have always been popular in France. However, today we will be tasting two rarer versions, including the brand new ‘COD’ for the 275th anniversary of Justerini & Brooks, J&B being Knockando's 'home blend'.
French magazine ad, 1990. "Below, the soul of a great whisky" with Innes Shaw, Distillery Manager. |
|
|
Knockando 12 yo 'The Manager’s Dram' (59%, OB, 1,200 bottles, 2012)
Colour: full gold. Nose: reminiscent of a highly fortified amontillado, this dram overflows with nutty nuances of every kind, tinged with metallic notes—think old pennies and a well-worn coin purse. There’s a dash of mustard, polished leather, and a rich waft of tobacco, followed by an array of dried mushrooms such as Chinese black fungus, boletes, and morels. It’s decidedly austere, far from the typical soft sherry; one can easily picture a distillery manager handpicking such a barrel. With water: walnut wine, bitters like amaro or Cynar, and hints of liquorice wood make an appearance. Mouth (neat): fiercely potent, nearly aggressive, laden with burnt cake edges, an assortment of peppers, leather, horseradish, chilli, bitter chocolate, and deep tobacco. There’s even a nod to intensely bitter cordials. Was the distillery manager Italian in 2012? With water: it relaxes only slightly, showcasing bitter oranges and peppered mustard. Finish: long and rewarding, with a welcome touch of thyme honey infused in very dark tea. Comments: it’s as if someone purposefully veered away from the polite, official 12, 15, 18, or 21-year-olds. I rather enjoy it, though it does demand a bit of fortitude.
SGP:472 - 86 points. |
|
Knockando 32 yo 1992/2024 (50.7%, OB, The Director's Cask, for Justerini & Brooks 275th Anniversary, first fill ex-Oloroso Sherry butt, cask #1023, 453 bottles)
At a recommended price of £1,210 including taxes, it almost feels reasonable, don’t you think? Colour: dark red amber. Nose: brimming with walnut liqueur, aged metals, and deep dark chocolate, yet rounded with an alluring touch, like a ‘Mars bar’ reimagined by a Michelin-starred chef. Following that, there’s polished wax, millionaire’s shortbread, and sticky toffee pudding—all harmonised perfectly. With water: absolutely charming, showing notes of aged leather (ex-Russian leather), rich tobacco, clove, and chen-pi, those aged, dried mandarin peels. What a treat! Mouth (neat): a sherry of the old school, with a delicate floral twist of saffron and an exotic mix of spices—paprika, black tea, and freshly cracked pepper. It’s thick, opulent, yet remains dry and brisk with a hint of clay. With water: more clove, juniper, saffron, followed by bitter chocolate and the always reliable old walnut profile. There’s even a faint evocation of Indonesian Gudang Garam cigarettes—the untipped ones. Finish: long and chocolaty, revisiting those chen-pi and walnuts, and once again those distinct Gudang Garam notes! Comments: another dram with a pronounced character, far from the softer commercial releases. Truly rather stunning.
SGP:571 - 89 points. |
|
November 6, 2024 |
|
|
WF’s Little Duos, today Bladnoch young OB vs older IB |
|
Bladnoch 13 yo (46.7%, OB, Heritage Collection, bourbon barrel, +/-2024)
Colour: white wine. Nose: it opens with a sharp lemony edge, which soon mellows into a more refined array of yellow fruits. Think quince and peaches, with a gentle floral touch emerging—mostly jasmine. There's the faintest hint of coconut from the bourbon cask, but nothing too assertive. Mouth: a very typical Bladnoch, even reminiscent of those from the UD/Diageo days, perhaps akin to a Rare Malt. Fresh citrus, a touch of mullein syrup, herbal sweets (think Ricola), and a bit of acacia honey, followed by the inevitable vanilla from the cask. It goes down effortlessly, though it doesn't quite have the sprightly refreshment of the younger, zestier Bladnochs of old now. Finish: medium length, leaning more into yellow plums, with lovely oranges and tangerines lingering in the aftertaste. Comments: as they say, it's Bladnoch through and through, and we certainly appreciate the absence of any wine cask influence.
SGP:651 - 85 points. |
|
Bladnoch 1991/2022 (45%, Malts of Scotland, Rare Casks, bourbon hogshead, cask #MoS 22011, 233 bottles)
There are some real gems in this series. Colour: white wine. Nose: well, here’s pure Bladnoch, completely distillate-driven. Oranges, woodruff, elderflower, acacia blossom, lime, and honeysuckle, then the tiniest touches of caraway and poppy seeds, with faint hints of cranberry at the end. It all flows beautifully under your nose, like a well-choreographed parade. Mouth: a delightful fruit salad with juicy, fresh western fruit notes and a few tropical nuances—banana, fresh pineapple—and a slight metallic note I find utterly charming, almost as if a small nail had been bouncing around in the hogshead for all those thirty years. Absolutely endearing. Finish: excellent length, fresh and vibrant, full of citrus and delicate aromatic herbs, with just a drop of yellow Chartreuse. Comments: simply magnificent in its elegant simplicity, with no outside influences on the distillate—except for that tiny, probably entirely imaginary wee nail.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
|
Bladnoch 33 yo 1988/2022 (54.1%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, for Kensington Wine Market, refill sherry hogshead, cask #2107, 53 bottles)
We find ourselves in Calgary here. A 33-year-old Bladnoch isn’t exactly something you stumble upon every day. Worth noting, these 53 bottles were all that remained in the hogshead at the time of bottling. Colour: pale, almost white wine, quite striking in its paleness. Nose: an extraordinary tension between green apple and lime, with subtle touches of sorrel, diesel, chalk, and slate in the background. There's also a hint of under-ripe guava, rowanberry eau-de-vie, and the faintest whisper of honey. Absolutely ‘Bladnoch’, reminiscent of those old official bottlings for Italy. With water: not much change, perhaps a nod towards old Sauvignon Blanc, especially from Pessac-Léognan. Mouth (neat): simply beautiful, with notes of rose jelly, overripe kiwi, Gewurztraminer, yellow peach, lychees, and violets. This time, we’ve strayed far from the citrus, and it wouldn’t be surprising if the concentration from evaporation has kind of altered the palate's profile. And it’s worked a treat. With water: surprisingly lovely touches of lavender, geranium, and grapefruit, which might remind you of some 1980s Bowmores, though without any excess. Phew. Finish: medium length, with no major shifts save for a hint of salt in the aftertaste. Comments: while the magnificent nose is quite classic, the palate is something else entirely, which earns it a few extra points in my book. A perfect old malt for a (sometimes) jaded taster.
SGP:461 - 90 points. |
|
November 5, 2024 |
|
|
WF’s Little Duos, today Pulteney again
I know we recently sampled some, but since there aren’t many new Clynelish releases, we’re migrating up the coast towards the north. No worries, we’ll have plenty of Clynelish soon enough. Right, let’s start with Taiwan... |
|
Pulteney 16 yo 2007/2023 (55.3%, Whisky Age, barrel, cask #700732, 217 bottles)
A cracking house, these Whisky Age folk. Colour: white wine. Nose: heaps of green apples, a touch of old silverware, kiwi, rhubarb, fresh walnut skins, and watermelon rind. It's like we’re floating in the world of a very good, bone-dry white wine—perhaps a Verdejo. With water: bitter almonds emerge, along with fresh paper, ink, and a whiff of seaside greenhouse, something like that. Mouth (neat): very much on limoncello, with lemon, Verdejo again (maybe from Rueda), and pink grapefruit. It's quite delightful how this takes you almost entirely into the realm of wine. With water: lemon meringue tart and green tea—perhaps a bit of oolong (blue-green), the kind they do so well in Taiwan, trust me. Finish: a smooth and gentle extension of the palate, with just a touch more bitterness from the wood and a tiny salty note at the very end. Comments: utterly charming and, in the end, rather classic, this Château Pulteney.
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
Another barrel, this time an official one… |
|
Old Pulteney 19 yo 2004/2024 (56.7%, OB, for LMDW, Foundations, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #239, 204 bottles)
Colour: gold. Nose: it's remarkably similar to its counterpart, just a tad rounder and a bit oilier, with a touch of exotic fruit making an appearance (banana), but the core remains exactly the same. And that’s no bad thing! With water: here come the chalk and fresh ink notes. Incidentally, I’ve noticed fountain pens are making a comeback with the younger crowd—charming, really. Mouth (neat): we're even closer to that superb Taiwanese style. Limoncello, dry white wine, grapefruit, and all that jazz. With water: same elements, same manoeuvres, same delightful outcome. Lovely chalky touch, yellow and white fruits, with a bit of Spanish melon… Finish: long, fruitier, and a touch less tense than its sibling. Each has what the other lacks, and vice versa (which helps us tremendously, of course, S.). Comments: slightly more ‘approachable’ than the other, making it just a whisker superior, but not enough to change the score.
SGP:561 – 87 points. |
More beautiful Pulteney again. |
|
November 4, 2024 |
|
|
Two or three Tamdhu ex-oloroso |
|
Tamdhu Distillery, no pagodas but it's still beautful (Ian MacLeod) |
In truth, our main interest was in tasting the newly released 43-year-old, which made its debut earlier this year. We had sampled it at the Whisky Show in London, and this time, its substance perfectly matched its impressive appearance—a rare feat that isn’t always the case elsewhere. But for now, let’s start with a small aperitif or two… |
|
Tamdhu 15 yo (46%, OB, first fill oloroso, +/-2024)
We tasted a 2019 version of this 15-year-old, which back then appeared to be a 'limited release'—or so it seemed. Either it’s since joined the core range or has stayed ‘limited’, but aren’t all malts somewhat limited in their own way? Colour: amber gold. Nose: a touch of burnt wood right up front, followed by moreish dark chocolate and a double espresso. Behind that, hints of aged copper, crème brûlée, and walnut liqueur, with singed raisins that spent a little too long in the oven. I’m also picking up a charming rancio. Mouth: a superbly bitter opening, full of walnuts and bitter almonds, quickly joined by the quintessential bitter oranges, tobacco, leather, a whiff of curry spices, and a distinctly turmeric-like note. That espresso and the scorched raisins keep making an appearance. Finish: long, dry, and rather heavy on some acidic and bitter coffee, with more walnut. Thoroughly ‘oloroso’, with oak becoming more assertive on the back end. Comments: I think I’m revisiting that nicely dry, almost austere style it showed the first time. Just how we like it at Château WF.
SGP: 461 - 85 points. |
|
Tamdhu 18 yo (46.8%, OB, first fill oloroso, +/-2024)
We didn’t particularly love the last 18-year-old we tried (WF 78), but that was an official bottling from around 2008, sporting a very different design and marred by a faintly cardboard-like profile—less common in today’s Scotch malt, thankfully. Once again, this one is entirely from oloroso-prepped casks. Colour: slightly darker amber. Nose: a style quite akin to the 15, though gentler, with more sultanas, cloves, and a gradual build of spices and green walnuts heading in a different direction. There’s peach skin, chocolate, cherry liqueur, roasted peanuts, sticky toffee pudding, and brownies… Intriguingly, it opens, closes, then opens again over the minutes. Mouth: even closer to the 15, with a fine array of bitters, bitter walnuts, dark chocolate, heavily roasted hazelnuts and pecans, pipe tobacco, toasted rye bread, malt extract, and bitter orange. Finish: much the same structure as the 15, laden with coffee, walnut, clove, oak, and with impressive length. The oak is fairly pronounced. Comments: a beautiful austerity here, both the 15 and the 18 are commendably strict, so to speak.
SGP: 461 - 86 points. |
|
Tamdhu 43 yo ‘Forty Three’ (50.8%, OB, The Dedication Collection, oloroso sherry, casks #234 + 236 + 1319, 100 bottles, 2024)
This sumptuously presented bottle brings together two 1978 casks and one from 1979, though calling it a ‘multi-vintage bottling’ might be a touch grandiose. Colour: amber with copper hues. Nose: a shift away from the classic coffee, chocolate, and roasted walnut territory, venturing instead into something more floral, fruity, and almost jammy. Notes of prune, damp earth, very dark pipe tobacco, and wafts of peony and forest floor emerge, followed by a beautifully refreshing eucalyptus and menthol. The complexity deepens over time, giving the impression of sniffing a black Dunhill pipe tobacco tin, an intensely rich blend. With a drop of water: it leans a bit toward the 18-yo, yet retains its striking coherence and layered complexity. Dried figs of every sort spring to life, complementing that deep pipe tobacco. Mouth (neat): an exquisite interplay of pepper and dried fruits, with dried pear slices, papaya, burnt raisins, very earthy humus, Chinese mushrooms, petite dried figs, and roasted pecans. A stunning trio of liquorice, mint, and pepper ties everything together seamlessly. It brings to mind a well-aged armagnac, lovingly kept in reserve. With water: deeply impressive, with that peppery spine remaining intact throughout. Bitter oranges, tobacco, dry liquorice wood, and very dry sultanas shine through. Finish: splendidly long, maintaining a balance that is at once complex yet wonderfully compact. Comments: a true old-school Tamdhu, evoking memories of some venerable old Craigellachie bottlings from its former stablemate, which begins with an M. Let’s remember that both distilleries were once part of the Highland Distillers/Edrington fold, before Tamdhu was sold to Ian MacLeod in 2011 following a period of closure. It’s also worth noting Tamdhu has proudly upheld the tradition of all-sherry maturation that once defined its illustrious counterpart. A superb 43 indeed!
SGP: 561 - 91 points. |
|
November 3, 2024 |
|
|
|
|
A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
A few Armagnacs this time
Rum, rum, cognac, Armagnac, rum, rum, cognac… That does seem to be the rhythm of our Malternatives, doesn’t it? So today, it’s Armagnac. We’ll try to approach this in a slightly unstructured way – I know we always say that and end up doing overly Cartesian vertical tastings, but we’ll really try this time, promise.
A vintage advertisement from the 1940s. The angels didn’t just drink; they also distilled, even if the still they used wasn’t exactly traditional for the region, was it. |
|
|
Dartigalongue 2010 ‘Folle Blanche’ (48%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, 492 bottles, Sept 2024)
Fully matured in good old Gascon oak, no trendy mizunara or syrupy PX meddling here, so no need for concern. The label mentions ‘récolte 2010’, a helpful reminder that vintage dates are tied to the harvest year rather than distillation. Colour: light amber. Nose: ah, splendid. We’ve got furniture wax, almond milk, toasted sesame, dried figs, a touch of oil paint, vineyard peaches, and juicy oranges. The waxy notes really elevate this, nudging it quietly yet undeniably into malt whisky territory. Mouth: much the same sentiment—almost malty and just a whisper smoky, with a hint of lactic funk. Think powdered coffee, Ovaltine, sultanas, followed by prunes, a scattering of porcini mushrooms, and a subtle saline edge. Finish: long, leaning into chocolatey territory, with lingering coffee and a final flourish of marmalade and liquorice. Comments: cracking stuff, this young Armagnac kicks off with a bold yet refined modern touch.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
|
Laterrade 50 yo (45.1%, Poh ! Spirits, Armagnac, 90 bottles, 2024)
Ugni Blanc and Baco. Laterrade is a relatively young trading house, as is Poh ! Spirits, and it’s always a joy to see fresh, passionate bottlers pushing forward with their own selections. The label sports a bunch of flying moustaches, which immediately makes me think of... dear Charlie Maclean. Colour: full amber. Nose: this one leans more into classic charm and elegance, offering a wonderfully floral bouquet—broom, hibiscus, and jasmine—followed by a medley of wildflower honeys, sultanas, and a delightful grappa-like aromatic quality, perhaps reminiscent of marc de Gewürztraminer (I know, no umlaut in French). It’s vibrant, almost playful, with hints of rose petal. Mouth: superbly soft, nearly creamy like a liqueur, but with an underlying earthy and spicy tension that leads into fir honey and robust Québec maple syrup from the northern climes, where I believe it tastes its finest. There’s absolutely no harshness; this venerable Armagnac is purely benevolent. Finish: long, with classic notes of pine bud and liquorice appearing as expected, finishing with chestnut honey and a gentle coffee echo. Comments: an extraordinary old Armagnac, or as they might say in the Gers, ‘it goes down like an up-and-under.’ Take care, though—you could easily polish off a whole bottle without even thinking.
SGP:551 - 90 points. |
|
Château de Laubade 2010/2021 ‘L’Enchanteur’ (45.2%, OB, Les Curiosités de Laubade, 562 bottles)
This one had an 8-month finishing stint in an ex-Doisy Daëne cask, a rather fine Sauternes. Actually a Barsac like Coutet or Climens, but all Barsac can call themselves Sauternes. I’m glad they’ve labelled it a ‘curiosity’; in the whisky world, they’d be spinning a grandiose tale of the ultimate, unprecedented, divinely innovative pairing. Colour: full gold. Nose: well, it’s true that a young Armagnac and a young Sauternes do a splendid tango together. I wouldn’t go so far as to say the Sémillon takes over, but the combination of apricots, honey, and yellow flowers works beautifully. There’s citron liqueur, mandarin, unmistakable Sauternes notes, and even a whisper of fresh rubber, which adds a nice structural edge. Mouth: sinful, frankly. More spices, more honey, more raisins, and an entire family pack of liquorice allsorts. Dried apricot halves, lush and chewy. Finish: medium length, with sweet fudge and runny caramel. Yes, that too is sinful. Comments: the finishing in Sauternes feels natural, unforced, and perfectly logical.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
|
Domaine de Rounagle 2009/2024 (53.9%, Zero Nine Spirits, Ténarèze, Ar06)
These labels are wild, Ténarèze is wild, everything here feels delightfully unhinged. Very French, indeed. Colour: bronze gold. Nose: it’s flawed, but wait, flawed can still be stunning. My neighbour insists all Laphroaigs are defective, just to give you a bit of perspective. Anyway, we’re greeted with generous notes of mead and Calvados, a good dose of Nescafé, various Starbucks concoctions, a repeat of Ovaltine, and even some leek and cauliflower soup sweetened with honey. With water: zero chance of winning awards but maximum appeal for whisky fanatics. There’s a metallic edge, like old brass, and a touch of fine-quality retsina. Mouth (neat): very malty, truly. It feels like a robust, ex-Amontillado-inflected malt joined forces with a British Guyanese rum. It’s a bit bonkers and absolutely fantastic. With water: what’s this, absinthe? A spirit that defies classification. Finish: long, complex, slightly smoky, and undeniably esoteric. Comments: was any of this intentional? Controlled? Tested and approved? Who knows—but it’s deliciously improbable.
SGP:562 - 87 points. |
|
Enclos du Simsat 2003 (48.6%, Authentic Spirits, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2024)
A blend of Baco and Ugni Blanc from a small domaine that, truth be told, we’d never heard of before—not that it means anything. Colour: gold. Nose: a fresh and lively Armagnac, full of energy with crisp apples, bright citrus, and an abundance of varied honeys, including hints of pollen and beeswax. All of this melds into sultanas and luscious sweet wine tones reminiscent of both Petit and Grand Manseng. There’s also a refreshing twist from liquorice and star anise, keeping it wonderfully zesty. Mouth: it starts off more ‘traditional,’ woodier, with notes of bitter chocolate, black coffee, pine resin, and propolis. Not what I expected, but let’s see what water does. With water: some garden fruits reappear, apples and pears, but that pine note remains dominant. Finish: rather long and resinous, with touches of mint and dark chocolate. Comments: I loved the nose, but the palate, with its more pronounced wood influence, was just a tiny-wee tad more challenging for me.
SGP:561 - 83 points. |
|
Domaine Jean-Bon 1992 (50.1%, Authentic Spirits, Bas-Armagnac, +/-2024)
Pure Baco. They say Baco can drive you mad, and in the end, you might start resembling either D. Trump or JL Mélenchon. So, best to tread carefully… Colour: amber. Nose: ah yes, varnish and wood glue up front, followed by overripe apples, Basque cake, almond biscuits, and fresh tobacco. With water: a delightful citrusy and herbal tension emerges, almost refreshing on the nose. Mouth (neat): spot on. More varnish and glue, lemon liqueur, sharp lime juice, and acidic white wine… You can practically count your vertebrae as it slides down—that’s the beauty of it. Seriously, it’s cracking stuff. With water: brings out tart little green apples, the kind you’d find in a rustic parish garden somewhere in Bas-Armagnac. And yes, still a touch of varnish. Finish: long, taut, fresh, and delightfully rustic. Comments: honestly, it’s brilliant, instantly transporting you to holiday mode in the region. Who needs other stimulants?
SGP:461 - 88 points. |
|
Domaine de Charron 2008/2024 (50.2%, Swell de Spirits, Bas-Armagnac)
100% Baco from one of our favourite domaines, the one rumoured to be raising zebras. Colour: full amber. Nose: very clean, compact, and modern, with an impeccably crafted fruitiness—think ripe mango and banana. With water: in come lovely touches of mint and verbena. Mouth (neat): oh, brilliant. There’s indeed mint, alongside thyme honey, apricots, prunes, and citron zest. It really makes itself heard. With water: splendid. More mint, lemon, and a hint of chocolate. Finish: much the same, with just the faintest whisper of lemon. The mint lingers charmingly—this one’s not going anywhere. Comments: it’s tight, structured, and superbly executed. Charron with a menthol twist.
SGP:562 - 89 points. |
(BTW, where is Baraillon?) |
|
Domaine Lous Pibous 1994/2024 (54.8%, L’Encantada, LMDW Foundations, cask #132bis, 120 bottles)
Lous Pibous has been ‘out of biz’ since 2004, yet L’Encantada continues to carry the torch with undeniable flair. The fact that Pibous is long-gone does seem a bit of an injustice when compared to the survival of some truly dreadful offerings in the world of rum (no names, but you know them). Colour: red amber. Nose: warm and slightly spicy, with blood oranges, peonies, and pink peppercorns. It’s wonderfully delicate, with a subtle fermentative edge, like sourdough bread. With water: perfect, evoking old wood, tobacco, blood oranges, and fragrant herbs. Mouth (neat): heavens! Caramel, chocolate, and deep, resonant Armagnac. That 55% ABV might feel a touch too hot for an Armagnac—just a personal observation; it wouldn’t feel the same with malt whisky, which sometimes lacks this kind of depth. With water: delighted to report that we’ve tamed it. Lovely liquorice, aged rum vibes, mint, orange zest, and perhaps fennel, but certainly liquorice root. Finish: dry and slightly astringent, with a faint touch of artichoke. Comments: quite the journey, this Lous Pibous 1994. Not the easiest spirit to follow, but one well worth the adventure.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
|
Château de Laubade 2003/2021 (52.7%, OB, Bas-Armagnac, cask #200024, chai #3, tirage #1)
A fine example of a cask that’s been ‘drawn’ from multiple times. To be honest, I can’t be certain this is indeed tirage #1 in my tulip glass, but let’s face it, most of us couldn’t care less. You know what I mean? Colour: amber. Nose: absolutely lovely! Sultanas, freshly peeled oranges, fruity and smooth Italian olive oil, jujubes, and sorb apples… near perfection. With water: mint tea—magical stuff. Mouth (neat): perfection, really. White chocolate, nougat, roasted pecans, assorted honeys, sultanas, blonde cigarette tobacco, and white turron. With water: careful now, don’t overdo it; I think Armagnac collapses a little faster than whisky when watered down. Gentle mint, herbal infusions, and hints of fruit peels. Finish: long, with soft notes lingering. Comments: honestly, I’m almost embarrassed to say this, but skip the water with this type of brandy, especially when it dances just over 50% ABV—you’ll only spoil it if you’re not careful, if you catch my drift. Beyond those esoteric considerations, this little Laubade is just perfect.
SGP:451 - 90 points. |
Last one please, and quickly… |
|
Alabat 1992/2024 (50.5%, OB, LMDW Foundations, cask #37, 192 bottles)
This one hails from Domaine de Péré, in Bourrouillan, deep in the heart of the Gers—a land where tales of witches, forbidden rituals, and wild feasts abound. What can I say, the Gers is the Gers. Oh, and by the way, Alabat’s labels are some of the finest of the past few years, hands down. Si! Colour: copper amber. Nose: old wine notes, earthy mushrooms, stewed fruits, flambéed bananas, light molasses, and overripe cherries. Still reserving judgment here. With water: loads of pipe tobacco. Then again, I’m aware that younger spirit enthusiasts probably have no clue what pipe tobacco even smells like. Mouth (neat): very traditional, with aged wood, more tobacco, herbal teas, fudge, caramel, and sticky pine resin. With water: fir wood comes to the fore, followed by pine and fir bud liqueur. Very good, though perhaps not totally ueber-transcendent. Finish: long, with that ever-present resinous character, then raisins rounding things out. Comments: these Armagnacs are like a rollercoaster—earthy, rustic, and full of countryside spirit.
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
A very high standard once again today, but let's remember that no one would think of sending us subpar stuff (we know it does exist), while we ourselves never go out of our way to seek it as we sometimes do for whiskies. Remember, this is ‘a whisky blog’. Right then, until next time. |
|
November 2, 2024 |
|
|
|
Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
A pair of Rosebank
A quick pair of Rosebank this week. I had started writing these a few weeks ago for inclusion in a closed distillery post, but then realised that Rosebank is no longer technically closed. You have to keep up with today’s whisky world! I’ve never been as excited about Rosebank as many other folk seem to be, but I’m very keen to see what the new owners do with it and I’m happy it is back up and distilling once again. |
|
|
|
|
Rosebank 1991/2009 ‘Handfill’ (55.1%, The Whisky Exchange)
We kick off with a useless tasting note for a Rosebank bottling sold as a handfill, back in the ridiculously innocent days of 2009 when you could go to The Whisky Exchange shop at Vinopolis and buy Rosebank direct from the cask, probably for around £65 a bottle. Neither possible, or even legal now (possibly also illegal then too). Colour: pale gold. Nose: typically fresh and chiselled, all on chalk, limestone, pin-sharp citrus notes and hints of olive oil. As we discovered in a tasting at Whisky Live Paris the other week, Rosebank and Chichibu seem to share a lot of similarities, and nosing this is only re-affirming that impression to me. Very grassy, crisp notes of gooseberry and nettle coming through. With water: really on limestone, clay, vase water, white flowers and the most subtle note of wax. Mouth: hay, white flowers, more gooseberries and tart green apple. I’d also add that slight funk of cider apple, some lemon barley water and mirabelle eau de vie. Crisp, pin-sharp and very bright. With water: excellent combo of crisp, clean cereal notes, sunflower oil, hand cream and lemon rind. Finish: medium, flinty, rather mineral, chalky and continuing with white flowers and lemon peel. Comments: the customers of TWE Vinopolis never had it so good! Excellent, sharp and tense Rosebank.
SGP: 551 - 88 points. |
|
|
|
Rosebank 21 yo 'The Roses, Edition 5, Fascination’ (49.5%, Specialty Drinks, Madeira cask, 633 bottles, bottled 2021)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: very proximate to the handfill, with these very crisp, pure notes of green apple, hay, white flower, pollen and things like vase water, clay, olive oil and even a slightly petrolic edge. Great freshness and sense of sharpness once again. Mouth: I find it a little rounder and fuller than the nose suggested, more oily, slightly sweeter and more on barley extracts, beers, heather honey and even a little camphor, perhaps this richer side comes from the Madeira influence. There’s even a little treacle, dried mint and something slightly salty and leathery. Good power once again. Finish: medium, with a continuation of these more rich, rounded and savoury/sweet balanced qualities that dominated the palate. Comments: very good, how long was it in madeira casks? It’s a bit of cask trickery that seems to have been very cleverly handled here.
SGP: 561 - 89 points. |
|
|
Concert Review
by Nick Morgan
Bill Frisell Four
Cadogan Hall, London, Friday 25th October 2024
I’ve been lucky enough to travel the world with Bill Frisell for twenty-five years or so, ever since he released Good Dog, Happy Man in 1999. On a series of increasingly sophisticated devices and headphones, in increasingly sophisticated aircraft, the opening bars of ‘Rain rain’ have, like a magic carpet, whisked me away from the tedious mundaneness of long-haul flights to the peaceful haven of Frisell’s ‘colorful, commanding tone poems’ The album remains my most played – even more than Revolver! |
|
The studious Frisell has always had something of a scholarly bearing – you wouldn’t be entirely surprised if he put down his guitar, gig half played, and started reading a learned paper on the most esoteric of subjects. Since I first saw him, also about twenty-five years ago, he’s climbed the greasy academic pole from senior lecturer, through a readership, a chair, and soon (now in his seventies) perhaps an emeritus professor. In the Cadogan Hall this evening he’s certainly taking a back seat and giving a lot of space for his junior colleagues, Greg Tardy on saxophones, Gerald Clayton on piano, and Jonathan Blake on drums to perform. This is the band who recorded the ‘irresistible’ Four on Blue Note records in 2022, the realisation of musical themes sketched out by Frisell during the pandemic. |
For those who don’t know the Cadogan Hall, just off Chelsea’s Sloane Square, was originally built for the Church of Christ, Scientist (Christian Scientists) in 1907. The building was designed by architect Robert Chisholm (who practised mostly in India) in an imposing Byzantine style and has remarkable stained glass windows designed by Baron Arild Rosenkrantz. In the 1990s, no longer in use and a church, it was briefly owned by the now disgraced Mohamed Fayed (who tried, and failed, to convert the building to residential use) before being acquired by the Cadogan Estates and transformed into one of the most spacious airy concert halls in London, with excellent acoustics. For all that there is something of a Senate House and Rationalist vibe about the interior: you wouldn’t be entirely surprised if a black-shirted Oswald Mosely strode onto the stage mouthing antisemitic tropes. But he doesn’t. |
Cadogan Hall, in London's Chelsea |
Frisell’s tunes are always riff heavy and rich in melody, often never too far away from a twelve-bar blues, and normally illuminated by an array of effects pedals and loops. But the emphasis in this performance is more on the other players rather than Bill’s electronic wizardry. In a set that comprises mostly material from the Four album (which in turn contains reworkings of a handful of tunes from Good Dog Happy Man) there is plenty of room for improvisation, and the fluid playing of Clayton, Tandy and Frisell comes and goes like waves gently breaking on a beach. With no bass the glue all comes from drummer Jonathan Blake, who, with a deceptively lazy style, delivers his chops with pinpoint accuracy (and plays a memorable solo). The music is immersive, almost transportational, on stage each musician is looking out for the other, clearly enjoying the performance as much as the audience. |
Frisell’s music has drawn heavily on American culture, folk music, and the great American songbook in its broadest definition, from ‘When you wish upon a star’ to ‘I heard it through the grapevine’. Your never quite sure when a familiar melody or phrase is going to creep up on you, and so it was at the end of the concert. Having received a rousing ovation, a typically meandering groove in the encore leads into the very familiar refrain of Hal David and Burt Bacharach’s ‘What the world need’s now’, recorded by Frisell on his 2020 Blue Note album Valentine. Which with wars, climate change, elections, budgets and the like, I’m sure the whole Cadogan Hall audience agreed with as they stepped out into a cold, dark autumn night. - Nick Morgan |
|
November 1, 2024 |
|
| | | | |