Whiskyfun November 2024 - part 2 - Aultmore, Longrow...

November 2024 - part 1 <--- November 2024 - part 2 ---> December 2024 - part 1


November 29, 2024

A few Dufftown

With an aperitif, simply because one must have one…

Singleton of Dufftown 12 yo (40%, OB, +/-2016)

Those from about a dozen years ago were rather so-so (WF 75). Honestly, I’ve never quite grasped the whole Singleton story at Diageo, with Dufftown, Ord, Glendullan, and previously Auchroisk... This kind of umbrella brand housing different distilleries depending on the market is a bit baffling, but perhaps I’m not the quickest on the uptake. Let’s press on, shall we? Worth noting, this one still sports the older packaging. Colour: gold. Nose: a pleasant mix of walnuts, hazelnuts, hay, and malt, rounded off with caramel and a dollop of vanilla fudge. Quite nice, really. Mouth: the palate is less convincing, with a slightly oily texture but a rather shallow flavour profile. Some nougat and popcorn make an appearance, along with a hint of herbal tea. Finish: short and fairly malty, offering notes of bruised apples and a light touch of cappuccino. Comments: the 40% doesn’t do it any favours, but it’s honestly decent and probably better than the earlier batches. I’ll have to track down a newer release for comparison one day—or perhaps not.
SGP:441 - 78 points.

Dufftown-Glenlivet 10 yo (46%, Cadenhead, Original Collection, bourbon & sherry, 2020)

Another rather vintage bottling. Colour: amber. Nose: the sherry influence (PX) seems to take the lead over the bourbon, with rich notes of raisins and sweet wine, accompanied by subtle hints of leather and roasted chestnuts. There’s also a slightly tangy edge (courtesy of the sherry again) and a touch of gently fermented dried figs. Mouth: classic PX-matured malt, showcasing raisins, sweetened coffee, mead, and a faint whisper of salinity that adds a nice dimension. Finish: medium in length, with salted butter caramel, liquorice, and a slight metallic tang. Comments: this one’s lovely, and it softens and rounds out rather beautifully as it breathes in the glass. In short, it delivers!
SGP:551 - 83 points.

Dufftown-Glenlivet 10 yo 2007/2017 (56.8%, Cadenhead, Small Batch, 2 hogsheads)

The old black-labelled Cadenhead bottlings were known as ‘black dumpies,’ but I’m not sure if this series has earned a nickname yet— ‘black flats’? ‘Black squares’? Colour: straw. Nose: splendid, as this allows a more unadulterated, less doctored view of Dufftown’s malt. Here we find ripe apples, wort, rustic bread, and grist—a natural, straightforward profile, though perhaps not one to set pulses racing. With water: fresh bread and damp limestone—clean and honest. Mouth (neat): much more appealing, with notes of green apple and lemon, underscored by chalk and gunflint. On the one side it’s incredibly herbal and taut, yet there’s a delightful syrupy sweetness and a touch of white pepper in the back. With water: yellow melon emerges, along with a dash of agave syrup—charming stuff. Finish: long, precise, and beautifully balanced between mineral and fruity notes. Comments: I love this bottle not only because the whisky itself is genuinely excellent but also because it serves as a reminder of the superiority of a ‘natural’ maturation, free from excessive tampering. Well done, Cadenhead (yes, I know I’m a bit late to the party).
SGP:551 - 87 points.

Dufftown 14 yo 2008/2022 (50.4%, The Whisky Cask Company, 1st fill PX hogshead finish, 239 bottles)

A charming wee bottle from Switzerland. Colour: deep gold. Nose: a curious medley of walnuts, tangy fruits, old wines, and—unsurprisingly—Swiss cheese, with hints of garlic and kirsch. This Dufftown seems tailor-made to accompany a Swiss fondue (or as we’d say in France, a fondue savoyarde). There’s a lovely earthy undertone too. With water: fresher now, with notes of gentian, anise, dill, fennel, and slate—unusual but enticing. Mouth (neat): quirky yet nice, with a spicy, piquant character and that persistent cheesy edge. Think cumin, black pepper, and slightly overripe plums verging on fermentation. With water: leather and leafy notes emerge—tomato leaves, fig leaves—adding a rustic touch. Finish: long and, frankly, a bit odd. Comments: an amusing little creature. This one feels almost designed for pairing with food—fondue, garlic snails, spaghetti with chorizo, or even some Thai or Vietnamese dishes. All in good fun, but do give your glass a thorough rinse afterward.
SGP:462 - 79 points.

Dufftown-Glenlivet 11 yo 2007/2019 (54.5%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 282 bottles)

We’ve stashed away so many of these in the library... Colour: straw. Nose: utterly charming, completely natural, and unsurprisingly very similar to the Small Batch we just tasted. Fresh bread, melon, peach, wort, and chalk—simple yet so appealing. With water: fresh focaccia, damp limestone, and even a touch of white Burgundy Chardonnay—elegant and inviting. Mouth (neat): pure, unadulterated malt perfection. This is what we love. With water: green apple, barley syrup, a hint of agave and cane sugar, melon, and white peach—it’s all there, perfectly balanced. Finish: long, subtly sweet, with a refreshing touch of menthol. Comments: quick and to the point—this is excellent. Pure, irresistible Scottish malt whisky in its natural state.
SGP:651 - 87 points.

While we're at it, an older one…

Dufftown-Glenlivet 26 yo 1988/2015 (51%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 234 bottles)

Well, this could take us to great heights… or perhaps not. Let’s see. Colour: pale gold. Nose: a touch shy at first, taking its time to open up, as though it needs a good breath of air (don’t we all?). Initially, there’s a bit of acetone, fresh putty, and candle wax before the fruit begins to tiptoe in—melon skin and apples to start. Then, intriguingly, there’s moss and a whisper of mushrooms… the age showing through, perhaps? With water: oddly tired now, slightly past its best. Mouth (neat): a touch more engaging here, with citrus zest and some pleasantly lemony herbs. That said, exaggerated bitterness creeps in after just a few seconds. With water: nope, not works. Finish: no joy there either. Comments: I suspect this sample hasn’t fared well over time. The whisky itself appeared clear, the fill level was fine, but during my customary pre-check for older samples (especially those with questionable caps, which you come to recognize with experience), I already had my doubts. I should have followed my instincts and discarded it outright, as I usually do—lesson learned again. As an exception, we are publishing this note anyway, strictly for educational purposes.
SGP: no – (useless) points.

We were having other Dufftowns but I believe we shall try them later, we need a rest.

Check the index of all Dufftown we've tasted so far

		Bad caps, bad samples
		Reminder: Never use, and especially never keep samples with caps fitted with pads glued to the inside. In general, defects are very easily detectable on the nose alone and are more or less always the same, but that isn’t strictly always the case. Also, avoid trying to seal caps with sticky tape or duct tape beyond a few weeks (travel period, transit etc.), prefer Parafilm. In any case, pay close attention to spirits that seem unusually bitter or exhibit chemical or adhesive-like notes—unless you know that this is inherently part of the distillery’s style, as is the case with certain Jamaican rums, for example. Because to make things even easier, there is still glue/varnish, and then there is glue/varnish.


November 28, 2024

WF's little duos, two wee Aultmore

Let’s see what we have…

Aultmore 10 yo 2011/2022 (52%, Goldfinch, Bodega Series, first fill oloroso, 308 bottles)

A bottling/company where roughly everything but the distillery is a mystery, which just goes to show there’s always something new to discover in whisky. Colour: light gold. First fill oloroso, really? Nose: one suspects some trickery with the oloroso claim, but no complaints here – this wonderfully clean profile of barley and apples is thoroughly appealing. A few hints of modelling clay and putty add interest. All is well. With water: green walnuts do make an appearance eventually, but the whole remains delightfully natural and charming. Mouth (neat): excellent, youthful, and both sharp and oily, with fruity syrups and pepper, balanced by crisp apple peel to keep things in check. With water: outstanding – even better! Green apples, barley, indeed green walnuts, alongside lemony touches, a whisper of agave, and even a flirtation with mezcal. ¡Bingo! (Yes, we’re speaking Mexican now.) Finish: no issues here. A trace of mead and a hint of vanilla round things off beautifully. Comments: the cask specifics don’t matter when the result is this good.
SGP: 551 - 86 points.

Who mentioned mezcal, eh?

Aultmore 17yo 2006/2024 (54.7%, Scyfion, Tequila Cask Finish, 150 bottles)

An exuberant Ukrainian bottling from our good friends at Scyfion, whose ongoing efforts are nothing short of inspiring. And this is certainly not a dram for the faint-hearted. Worth noting that the tequila cask’s involvement spanned a full 48 months, qualifying as ‘maturation’ rather than mere ‘finishing’. Slava Ukraini! Colour: gold. Nose: remarkably, the malt has held its ground admirably despite those four years, coming across with a character reminiscent of its predecessor, but with an added earthy nuance and perhaps the faintest suggestion of olive. With water: similar impressions, now enriched by gentle bakery notes—yeast, bread dough, beer—and, buried deep in the background, a fleeting wisp of lavender infused in olive oil. Mouth (neat): Once again, the tequila influence is admirably restrained, its contribution perhaps lurking in those earthy hints of grapefruit and pink pepper. Bright, fresh, and wonderfully vivacious. With water: here, the tequila finally steps forward a little more, yet without disrupting the malt’s coherence. No clash, no disjointedness—it remains unmistakably a whisky. Finish: long, fruity, and thoroughly delightful, with a mineral touch, perhaps slate or basalt. Could that be the tequila again? Comments: Tequila production in Ukraine—who knew? Right… In any case, this Aultmore is simply excellent, and one can only dream of a future where Scyfion’s Crimean wine finishes make a triumphant return. As for Frida Kahlo's head on a Mayan pyramid...
SGP: 551 – 87 points.

PS: I tasted it again after 30 minutes; the tequila came through much more noticeably, but not enough to change my modest score. Slava Ukraini!

Check the index of all Aultmore we've tasted so far


November 27, 2024

	A new little whisky world tour
	It’s become a bit of a cliché to say that there are more and more whiskies from the 'rest of the world', coming from genuine whisky distilleries but also, more commonly, from distillers who now make whisky in addition to their usual production (gin, eaux-de-vie, cognac, slivovitz, vodka, rum, shochu—you name it).

Not to mention the distilleries that don’t actually distil anything themselves. You need to visit their websites and check if you see any stills (and not just barrels), apart from that little 75-litre Portuguese one set up in the entrance, unconnected to anything and gleaming like a new penny. Yes, that does exist.

Domaine des Hautes-Glaces 2016/2024 ‘Epistémé’ (52.3%, OB, France, single track #B16D24+orange triangle, 216 bottles)

The last tasting of #B16D24+red square left quite an impression (WF 90). This organic whisky is matured in vin jaune casks—no mere finishing here— vin jaune being kind of akin to fino sherry, though that comparison is admittedly loose and might warrant an apology to our Jura friends. Colour: pale gold. Nose: fresh bread, crushed mustard seeds, green walnuts, damp earth, bergamots, newly sprouted cress seeds, sourdough, and hints of dried apricots. It’s like a mountain dweller’s fruit basket. With water: soft tarry notes and mild curry peep through. Mouth (neat): gentler than anticipated, but the rush of peppery cress, mustard, and raisin bread is delightful. With water: cardamom, cooked radish, and beetroot join the fray. Finish: long, with a stronger peppery kick. I must detail the types of pepper more precisely, as there’s such diversity! Comments: I adored the earlier 44% version, and while this isn’t necessarily ‘better’, it stands equal in quality. In any case, it’s exceptional (and we’re in the mountains).
SGP:552 – 90 points.

B&L (46%, Bottles & Legends, Blended Malt Belgian Whisky, Batch 1, new oak & sherry, 125 bottles)

Featuring a charming little cherry-red 356 on the label, this marks the first fully Belgian blended malt—congratulations! Colour: white wine. Nose: juniper and fennel swirl about, joined by a touch of gentian and a hint of Williams pear. A whiff of pine sap brings a fresh and somewhat spirited character, making for an unusual yet captivating profile. Mouth: bright with lemon and anise, underpinned by juniper, then a delicate touch of crème de cassis from Dijon and some raspberries. Thankfully, it avoids that ubiquitous ‘cheap red’ profile found in many others these days. A true success, I’d say. Finish: rather long, staying true to the notes of gentian, blackcurrant, and juniper, with a dash of lemon and returning coriander seeds adding a fresh lift. Comments: as some might have anticipated, I believe this whisky, slightly chilled, would pair superbly with Belgian shrimp croquettes. I challenge anyone to prove otherwise.
SGP:561 – 85 points.

Cormeil ‘Small Batch #1’ (42.7%, Distillerie H. Leblanc, France, finished in calvados cask, 2024)

Produced by Normandy’s noted calvados makers, Busnel. The writer Henri Monnier once remarked, “How foresighted nature is! It makes apples grow in Normandy, knowing that the natives of this region drink nothing but cider.” He might well have included calvados in that observation. Colour: light gold. Nose: quite pleasant, reminiscent of many other contemporary French whiskies—nicely crafted, rounded, with a gentle wood influence. There’s vanilla and apples, and for once, the apples are authentically present, with a touch of cinnamon as well. Mouth: enjoyable, showcasing apple juice, barley syrup, a hint of rhubarb, and slightly green tannins smoothed out by a drizzle of honey. It’s evidently very young. Finish: medium in length, fresh and soft, evoking memories of that apple ice wine made in Canada. With climate change, one wonders if Normandy could ever produce such a thing. Comments: youthful and approachable with no real flaws.
SGP:431 – 80 points.

High Coast 'Mountains 02 - Borgberget' (51%, OB, Sweden, Moscatel casks, 2024)

This series spotlights Sweden’s iconic mountains, here showcasing ‘Borgberget’. An unpeated expression, it stands out with its intriguing Moscatel cask finish—a nod to the Swedes' far-reaching historical journeys. Fun fact: the town of Colmar here in Alsace once fell under Swedish control, captured by Gustaf Horn and his forces in 1632. Colour: gold. Nose: the Moscatel influence remains restrained, presenting a whisky that leans dry with a touch of oak. There are hints of scones, pancakes, maple syrup, and slightly under-ripe bananas. With water: it blossoms with added depth, revealing a nice burst of juicy, ripe apples while the Moscatel remains agreeably understated—thankfully so. Mouth (neat): a livelier palate, richer and more liqueur-like with notes of muscat and guava, complemented by celery and pink pepper. With water: even better, unfolding sultanas and those charming ripe apples. Finish: of medium length, featuring raisins and dried apricots. Comments: initial caution gave way to relief, as water proved a great enhancer. For a Moscatel-finished dram, it’s rather charming.
SGP:641 - 83 points.

Bimber ‘Darwin the Naturalist’ (58.3%, OB, England, Shoulders of Giants, bourbon, cask #376, 259 bottles, 2024)

A delightful nod to Darwin, reminding us of humanity’s shared ancestry with primates—a fact underscored by the international news these days. Perhaps there’s a Bimber for David Hume too (though, being Scottish, he might have objected). Colour: gold. Nose: it’s almost embarrassing how effortlessly these ex-bourbon Bimbers deliver, bursting with ripe papaya, mango, peach liqueur, and the flakiest fresh croissants. You’ll want to dive right in. With water: subtle vegetal oils emerge, with the faintest hint of shoe polish. Mouth (neat): banana and kiwi liqueurs make an entrance, followed by assertive notes of Timut and pink peppercorns—marvellously vivid. I’m quite taken with it. With water: it’s just more of the same, in all the right ways. Finish: long, never straying into ‘fruit bomb’ excess. Echoes of peach skin, apple, and melon play through. Comments: as Darwin wittily observed, ‘An American monkey, after getting drunk on brandy, would never touch it again, and thus is much wiser than most men.’
SGP:751 - 89 points.

Daiking ‘The Reserva Bourbon Cask’ (53%, OB, China, 1st fill bourbon cask, +/-2024)

We previously tried the lower-strength releases and found them to be quite successful, crafted in a polished, international style, and, importantly, free from flaws. Notably, this expression is non-chill-filtered and free from caramel colouring. Colour: gold. Nose: initially, it shows a slightly fermentative character with soft beer notes, cake batter, boiled vegetables like aubergine and courgette, and hints of both earthiness and butter caramel. With water: buttery shortbread and delicate biscuits emerge. Mouth (neat): pleasantly full of citrus liqueurs, a touch of ginger, green wood spices, and dried fruits—think lychees and rambutans. It comes together very nicely. With water: apricots, apples, barley syrup, and papayas join the mix. Finish: not particularly long but well-balanced, with a pleasing fruitiness and a faint touch of eucalyptus. Comments: when tasting a whisky like this, it’s crucial to set aside cultural biases—steer clear of thinking about Temu, Wish, or AliExpress. Remember, China also produces some of the finest teas in the world. All in all, I find this Daiking very well executed.
SGP:551 - 84 points.

Cotswolds 2015/2024 (51%, OB, England, 1st fill bourbon, cask #451, 265 bottles)

Let’s be upfront—I tasted this English gem at the Whisky Show in London, and it floored me. But who knows? In that lively atmosphere, surrounded by good company and warm conversation, perhaps I got swept up in the moment. Time for a sober reassessment. Colour: gold. Nose: impeccably precise, with aromas of dough, croissant pastry, a touch of beach sand and chalk, leading to restrained notes of pears and bananas, all crowned by a flourish of butterscotch. With water: pears, bananas, papayas, crème anglaise, and wildflower honey. Nothing more needed. Mouth (neat): magnificent, this time bursting with a vibrant fruitiness anchored by stern notes of coffee and caramel. A frenzy of vineyard peaches dances in the background. With water: simply perfect, accented by hints of camphor and mint. Finish: not vast but delightfully fruity, enough to make the R&D team at Haribo green with envy. Comments: well, I wasn’t wrong after all (self-congratulation is dreadful, isn’t it, S.?).
SGP:751 - 90 points.

To conclude, we had been wanting to try this intriguing little number for a few weeks. We’re so accustomed to the sublime single cask versions at around 60% ABV…

Hellyers Road ‘Aurora Australis’ (40%, OB, Tasmania/Australia, +/-2024)

A story tied to a Roman goddess—one could only marvel at the idea of the Romans setting foot in Tasmania (a bit of historical humour there). Colour: white wine. Nose: unexpectedly ultra-fermentative with waxy tallow, roasted artichoke, pickled mushrooms, rainwater, bison grass, ale, and a whiff of mentholated tobacco. An intriguing bouquet that works surprisingly well, though one must question the decision to bottle it at 40%; by the time it reaches Europe, it’s likely shed a degree or two (just a cheeky thought). Mouth: quirky and delightfully so. Strongly fermentative, smoked with an indeterminate natural element, peppery, woody, and bitter, but all wrapped with a pleasant touch of bitter orange and deeply dark chocolate. The emphasis on its idiosyncrasies in this base expression is commendable, especially with that meaty sweetness emerging as it opens—honey and chilli-glazed beef jerky, perhaps. Finish: fairly long, quite bitter, and smoky, showcasing smoked paprika and cocoa powder. Comments: a ‘free whisky’ much like ‘free jazz’—bravo for resisting the lure of the typical PX or mizunara finish. A true, ethical whisky, unapologetically non-mainstream.
SGP:572 - 85 points.

Check the index of all whiskies of the world we've tasted so far


November 26, 2024

Two or three indie Royal Brackla

We end up tasting Brackla quite often, even if the official bottlings aren't regularly showcased. The only problem is that we keep struggling a bit to define the character of the distillate.

Cassata siciliana (Betty Bossi)

Royal Brackla 10 yo (46%, James Eadie, Small Batch, first fill bourbon and refill butt, cask #1598 + 303564, 1,155 bottles, 2024)

Colour: gold. Nose: a lovely balance with the sherry adding depth to what would otherwise be a fairly neutral profile, bringing out beer notes and perfectly ripe apples. Mouth: raisins take the lead. The cask work here is rather charming, even showcasing mandarins and hints of ginger biscuits, with a touch of dried figs. Finish: of medium length, driven by commanding raisin notes. Comments: a quality offering, though in my view, it's the bottler who deserves the applause.
SGP: 541 – 84 points.

Royal Brackla 15 yo 2008/2024 (58.3%, The Open Door, Taiwan, barrel, cask #6837, 215 bottles)

The Open Door is a bar in Taiwan, described as ‘a haven quietly located in the hustle and bustle of the city’—I must add it to the list. Colour: white wine. Nose: the purity and charm reminiscent of a fine southern Burgundy white, perhaps a Pouilly-Fuissé. Notes of apples and bananas, honeysuckle, sweet woodruff, limestone, and freshly baked brioche. A delicate and refined bouquet. With water: cassata emerges, complete with candied angelica, cherry, and pear pieces—if this carries through to the palate, we’re in for a treat. Mouth (neat): very gentle, almost syrupy, with a medley of citrus, apple, and pear liqueurs. It gradually gains tension in a delightful way, leading to pure limestone and lemon. With water: the cassata with candied fruits returns, along with a touch of honey ice cream. Finish: medium length, honeyed, with soft herbal teas. Comments: one might almost mistake this for a young Rosebank—what a surprise! I reckon it could pair wonderfully with ice cream, perhaps cassata?
SGP: 651 – 87 points.

Cawdor Spring 6 yo 2015/2022 (61.2%, Elixir Distillers, The Whisky Trail, refill cask, cask #236)

It seems Cawdor Spring is a trade name for Royal Brackla. At this rate, we’ll soon need trade names for the trade names—those Scots do love their brand intricacies, as if each small label were as grand as Apple or Tesla (though Tesla’s another story…). Not to be confused with Samaroli’s Glen Cawdor. Colour: the palest white wine. Nose: pleasingly simple, with ripe and unripe apples, a touch of chalk and limestone, and a hint of butterscotch. With water: delicate notes of fennel and dill appear, adding a fresh lift. Mouth (neat): bright and enjoyable, a mix between rum, tequila, and malt whisky (well, at last). Lemons, apples, agave, popcorn, and nougat. I appreciate the very ‘stripped-down’ character of this young malt. With water: the barley spirit steps forward, tempered by a hint of cane syrup. Finish: medium length, fresh, sweet, and fruity, with a touch of glue and varnish, a reminder of its youth. Comments: it’s always intriguing to taste a fine distillate in its early years. It’s not yet mature, but it’s quite agreeable as a young spirit. Think of white rum or mezcal—even if barley doesn’t match the aromatic depth of cane or agave, its main asset being, in theory, time. All in all, rather fun.
SGP: 640 – 83 points.

Check the index of all Brackla we've tasted so far


November 25, 2024

A Few Tomintouls

Tomintoul used to be known as "the gentle dram," but it must be said that lately, there have been some rather potent ones. And a few that are quite heavily influenced by wine – but that’s a trend affecting many distilleries these days. Indeed, we’re laying it on a bit thick…

Tomintoul 10 yo (40%, OB, +/-2023)

We last sampled this amiable 10-year-old back in 2018, and it performed rather decently (WF 78). Colour: straw. Nose: a gentle fruity profile, leaning heavily on apples and pears at first, then segueing into a more floral character with a touch of sweet barley. It feels as though it’s become a tad simpler, yet somehow more enjoyable, balanced, and, well… kind. That lovely ex-bourbon softness shines through. It does the job, and frankly, the world could use a bit more kindness these days. Mouth: light on the palate, offering notes of cornflakes alongside apple, a whisper of liquorice, and a faint hint of lurking lavender. Finish: short, with a mild honeyed touch and a faintly bitter edge towards the end—but isn’t that the fate of many young, entry-level Speysiders? Comments: perhaps a slight improvement since the last outing. There’s even a faint resemblance to Glenmorangie 10 (recently replaced by a 12).
SGP:441 - 79 points.

Tomintoul 12 yo 2011/2023 (40%, OB, oloroso sherry cask finish, 14,400 bottles)

The modest ABV suggests restrained ambitions here. Colour: gold. Nose: a touch of an old toolbox at first, followed by the expected walnuts and a hint of Barbour grease. Then, much like in the 10-year-old, those familiar apples and pears make a reappearance. It’s a lovely nose, well-constructed and inviting. Mouth: a pleasant opening with citrus joining the aromas already noted, but the low strength causes it to lose momentum, introducing more bitter and herbal notes. Think English breakfast tea—sans the cloud of milk—and a sprinkling of cocoa powder. One can’t help but feel this would sing better at 43%, though that refrain does grow a bit tiresome, does it not. Finish: fairly short, with tea and citrus peels, perhaps Earl Grey. Thankfully, it’s less bitter than feared, with a delightful hint of marmalade in the aftertaste lifting it nicely. Comments: thoroughly enjoyable.
SGP:341 - 80 points.

Tomintoul ‘Pinot Noir Cask Finish’ (40%, OB, +/-2023)

Holy Suzy, a Pinot Noir finish and NAS—brace yourselves! Colour: white wine. Nose: the palest Pinot Noir whisky I’ve ever encountered. Perhaps they used Pinot Noir grapes with minimal maceration, pressed quickly with almost no skin contact, producing something more akin to a white wine, much like a Champagne blanc de noirs. Thankfully, there’s no trace of stems, blackcurrants, cherries, or raspberries here. Instead, we’re greeted with vanilla, ripe plums, raisin pastries, and juicy mirabelles. Quite pleasant, really. Mouth: uh-oh, here comes the Pinot Noir influence. Grape seeds, skins, stems, green tea, and ginger make themselves known. Finish: much the same—green pepper and a touch of tannic bitterness. Comments: the palate feels worlds apart from the rather charming nose.
SGP:351 - 75 points.

Let's move on to independents and be aware that they have an advantage due to their much higher bottling strength – in general.

Tomintoul 13 yo 2010/2024 (56.1%, Dràm Mor, first fill PX hogshead finish, cask #900142, 218 bottles)

Colour: Gold. Nose: a finely controlled finishing, as is often (if not always) the case with Dràm Mor. Pecan pie with a touch of earthiness and tobacco, alongside a hint of plums that might not have fully ripened. Rather charming, really. With water: and here come the sultanas, loud and clear. Mouth (neat): much gentler on the palate, almost syrupy, reminiscent of a high-putts Tokaji. Nothing to do with golf, of course. Apricot and orange jam sprinkled with a delicate pinch of ras-el-hanout spice. With water: excellent, with a lovely addition of pepper to this distinctly Moroccan-inspired mix. Finish: long and smooth, mercifully free from the bitterness that so often lingers in PX-boosted malts. They must have some secret trick. Comments: a rather splendid success—here’s a young Tomintoul that truly speaks.
SGP:641 - 86 points.

The same elements, the same manoeuvre, the same battle…

Tomintoul 13 yo 2010/2024 (56.4%, Alistair Walker Infrequent Flyers, for Taiwan, PX hogshead, cask #804809, 340 bottles)

Colour: dark amber. Nose: ah, here we go—this one’s decidedly chocolatey, leaning towards Mars bars, with an abundance of raisins and a lovely touch of pipe tobacco. There’s a whisper of menthol and a faint streak of turpentine in the background, which keeps things interesting. It then turns charmingly Scottish, with creamy butterscotch and a proper slice of millionaire’s shortbread. A classic profile, free of missteps. With water: little change, and that’s hardly an issue here—this is perfectly composed for a young Speysider with a PX finish. There’s even a sweet little dunnage-like note that’s quite endearing. Mouth (neat): a closer sibling to the other 2010, it’s spicy and jammy, with an ample dollop of demerara sugar and maple syrup drizzled over plump Corinthian raisins. Again, not a false note in sight. With water: spot-on for the style, bringing out chocolate and freshly ground coffee. Finish: long and a touch drier than the other 2010, but every bit its equal. Comments: splitting hairs would be required to claim one was better than the other—both are superb examples.
SGP:651 - 86 points.

One last one, that will make it 3 OB and 3 IB. Neat and tidy.

Tomintoul 17 yo 2006/2023 (50%, Hunter Laing, Old Malt Cask 25th Anniversary, refill butt, 222 bottles)

To celebrate 25 years of this iconic series, the current owners have brought out a range of malts dressed in the original packaging—what we might call a ‘replica’ bottle. I can’t help but think that whisky enthusiasts or our successors here at WF (will we have any?) in 30 or 40 years might find these somewhat confusing to catalogue. But enough musings; let’s taste this Tomintoul, with more Speysiders from this series (Glen Grant, Benrinnes, etc.) to follow in the coming weeks. Colour: gold. Nose: the glory of refill casks, brought into sharp focus by contrast with the PX finishes we’ve just sampled. Barley sacks, fresh croissants, farmhouse cider, a small glass of Meursault, a few drops of manzanilla, walnut wine, and fresh hay… Simply perfect. Quite the surprise, I must say. With water: waxy notes and a touch of robustness. Still gentle yet structured. Mouth (neat): walnut and orange wine, mild ale, artisanal cider, ripe apples, fir honey, a hint of pine sap, and a drop of lemon juice… Again, just perfect. With water: still perfect. Finish: long and almost refreshing, with apple and citrus juice, and a touch of dry, elegant sherry in the aftertaste. Comments: it feels as though this cask was selected with great care—not that this wouldn’t usually be the case, but it’s especially evident here. Fantastic and even a bit surprising. T.o.m.i.n.t.o.u.l.!
SGP:551 – 90 points.

Check the index of all Tomintoul we've tasted so far


November 24, 2024

The time for cognac is back at WF

Let’s see what we have on the tasting table today… (only great ones I'm sure)...

Balade des Pères Noël

Bache Gabrielsen ‘Lot. 89’ (45.7%, OB, Grande Champagne, LMDW, single cask, cask #B-12, 70 bottles, 2024)

We’ve tried a few offerings from Bache Gabrielsen, though we wouldn’t say we’re well-acquainted with the house. The standout memory remains the remarkable ‘Le Sein de Dieu’ cuvée from 2015, which featured only pre-phylloxera cognacs, including one dating back to 1790! (WF 91). This ‘Lot. 89’ was distilled a mere two centuries later, which feels rather contemporary by comparison. Colour: full gold. Nose: wonderfully lively and bright, brimming with kiwis, rhubarb, and redcurrants at first, before ripe vineyard peaches and a few sultanas join the fray. A gorgeous freshness persists, gradually giving way to notes of vanilla, crème brûlée, and a subtle touch of jasmine. Mouth: a delightful bounty of fruit pastilles, underscored by a hint of white pepper. Lovely soft liquorice, mirabelle jam, apricot preserve, and even exotic fruit compotes—perhaps banana and pear? It’s jammy yet airy, with superb balance and a natural strength that feels spot on. Finish: medium in length, with the return of liquorice and exotic fruits, leading into oranges and a faintly nostalgic nod to an old bottle of Grand Marnier. Comments: superbly bright, fresh, and absolutely spot-on. What a splendid start!
SGP:651 – 90 points.

We always try to start our sessions gently. Well, this time, that’s gone out the window.

Ferme 1719 ‘Lot 88’ (50%, Authentic Spirits, Grande Champagne, 2024)

Made from Ugni Blanc, and another single cask. For clarity, Ferme 1719 isn’t a house name but rather a nod to a farm established in 1719. Now there is a Cognac brand called ‘1719’, though whether there's a link here is unclear. Colour: amber. Nose: it’s that lively fruitiness again, but this time leaning more towards ripe apples and pears, with a touch more oomph and a definite rustic edge. Quite farmy, as it were. Frankly, I adore this style too. Pan-fried apricots and mirabelles join the fray. With water: hints of damp earth and dried flowers emerge. Mouth (neat): starts with a whisper of old Calvados before honey takes over, wrapped in a well-integrated, peppery woodiness. Fir honey increasingly dominates, beautifully coating the palate. With water: splendidly ‘rural’ Cognac, it must be said. Finish: long, with a touch more acidity lifting the tail end of this gorgeous drop. Comments: it almost feels like tasting straight from the cask—do you know that sensation?
SGP:651 - 88 points.

Guillaume Duluc ‘Lot 87’ (50.1%, Authentic Spirits, Grande Champagne, 2024)

Crafted entirely from Ugni Blanc, from a 40-hectare estate in Touzac. Colour: deep gold. Nose: reminiscent of the Bache, with that lively, fruit-forward tension that feels irresistibly inviting. Stewed rhubarb and vineyard peaches lead the charge, followed by a delicate wisp of tobacco and nougat. Ferns and hints of wood varnish add a refined complexity to this utterly charming nose. With water: magnificent, bringing out sesame and orange cakes alongside a medley of bold honeys—heather, linden, and chestnut. Mouth (neat): flawless. Honey, oranges, cinchona, bitter orange, dried figs, and a touch of nutmeg create a rich tapestry, with a playful sense that it’s flirting with Highland malt territory—and could easily outshine many in a blind tasting. Delightful. With water: perfectly balanced, seamlessly weaving fruits, honeys, and gentle spices. Zero fault (if I may be so casual). Finish: liquorice and resinous notes take the baton, with orange zest and honey lingering beautifully. Comments: I’m smitten with these notes of ‘true’ honey. The value here is almost laughable—though I suspect it sold out in mere moments.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Cognac Grande Champagne ‘Lot 87’ (59.4%, Rhum Attitude, 213 bottles)

As whisky aficionados continue to flock towards quality Cognacs (leaving the generic stuff behind), it seems rum specialists are now following suit. An intriguing note here: this cask was used to top up others, meaning it was theoretically exposed to more oxygen. Fascinating—but interestingly, the alcohol level has hardly budged. Colour: dark gold. Nose: wonderfully rounded, with a honeyed richness and a delicate menthol edge. There’s also a hefty dose of maple syrup—fabulous—and roasted apricots drizzled with honey and a pinch of cinnamon. Irresistible, really. It’s true, 35–40 years is often the ideal age for such spirits. With water: subtle meaty undertones, perhaps chicken broth, adding a tertiary layer of depth not found in others. Mouth (neat): intensely fruity, almost reminiscent of an Yquem, before peppery notes creep in and a nervy young Sauvignon Blanc-like brightness arrives to bring structure. Flawless. With water: a touch of tannin now, alongside brown tobacco, black tea, and bitter chocolate—an evolution worth savouring. Finish: the tannins and darker notes persist, but the fruit fights back admirably. Comments: a complex, jubilant old Cognac that knows exactly how to fan out its peacock’s tail, as they would say in the country. I’d say it was bottled at just the right moment.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

The magnificent cognacs are lining up like pearls on a necklace today. Perfect for Christmas ;-).

Pasquet ‘Lot 85’ (52.3%, Poh! Spirits, Petite Champagne, 90 bottles, 2024)

Pasquet – naturally, that’s Jean-Luc Pasquet, the esteemed house. Are there other Pasquets crafting such splendid cognacs? Colour: deep gold. Nose: this time we’re veering more towards patisseries and baked delights – think walnut cakes, richly cooked jams, fruit tarts, Linzertorte, and fully ripened damsons. With water: I’m quite taken by this touch of old metals (copper coins, polished silverware) followed by a whisper of smoke. Mouth (neat): it’s utterly sinful, with a fleeting impression of agricole rum – dare I say Neisson? – before moving into Catalan cream piled high with honey-soaked baked plums and a handful of raisins. Hints of mint, a touch of liquorice, and a drizzle of heather honey bring further intrigue. With water: yes, splendid – a dollop of quince jelly now joins the fray. Finish: rather long, staying gentle and on the rounder side. Did we already mention an old Sauternes today? Comments: perfect once again. Beware, this goes down like mother’s milk.
SGP: 651 - 90 points.

What a disaster, it seems to me that we’re not going to manage to bring our scores down much today...

Vallein Tercinier ‘Lot 74’ (48.7%, OB, Grande Champagne, cask #0278, 571 bottles, 2024)

Colour: deep gold. Nose: utterly exquisite, with an almost surreal purity of super-ripe fruits—peach, melon, quince, mirabelle plum, and apricot. One might nearly mistake it for a blend of eaux-de-vie from these fruits, aged together in wood. Beware of those peach stones, though—cyanide lurks within, which distillers must handle with care. But let’s not digress too far... The nose is astoundingly precise, truly beautiful, with a delicate touch of miso that’s simply sublime. Mouth: astonishing vivacity, brimming with herbal teas, honeys, citrus, and raisins. Think chamomile and thyme, oak honeydew, blood oranges, golden sultanas, and tiny muscat grapes. A slight hint of pine bud adds a subtle backbone, perfectly balancing the bright energy of the whole. Finish: the oak steps forward here, as expected. Notes of coffee beans, dark chocolate, black tea, marmalade, and a faint trace of aged white wine right at the very end. Comments: magnificent, as anticipated. The oak is more present in the finish (and no, we’re not talking about that mass-market ‘boisé’ flavouring, are we?). Let’s remember this Cognac has likely spent 50 years in cask—or perhaps 49. It doesn’t seem to have been stored in demijohns either.
SGP:651 - 91 points.

One last one, we'll head down towards the Rolling Stones. In a manner of speaking...

Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘L.70 Le Cognac d’Arlette’ (44.6%, OB, Trésors de Famille, Petite Champagne, 366 bottles)

Ah, 1970, wasn’t that the year of Sticky Fingers? This beauty hails from a family estate in Lagarde-sur-le-Né, and one of the joys of these cognacs is the geography lesson they bring along—an intricate lacework of charming little villages and hamlets, brimming with delightful folk. Colour: Full gold, radiant and inviting. Nose: we’re firmly in the realm of master woodworkers and spice merchants. Notes of gingerbread, crème de menthe, Turkish coffee, and spruce wood (Christmas trees, naturally) waft up first, alongside a touch of pitch, then creamy cappuccino and fresh potting soil. After a few minutes, the fruits timidly emerge: quince and those tiny apples you’d find in an ancient orchard around Lagarde-sur-le-Né—well, that’s probably pushing it a bit, but you get the idea. Mouth: here the fruits take the lead, particularly dried ones, though the seasoned woods, tobacco, and menthol are ever-present. Think Christmas cake, figs, raisins, baked apples flattened and dried in the old Loire tradition (pommes tapées), and marvellous dried apricots—the kind that deserve a moment of reverence. The balance between dried fruits and gentle spices is nothing short of a masterclass. Finish: this awesome cognac departs quietly, almost imperceptibly, which might just be a cunning ploy to coax you into pouring another glass. Comments: honestly, there’s nothing to fault here. The overall harmony is sublime, well done Arlette.
SGP: 651 – 91 points.

It's incredible how the VT 74 and the JLP 70 are neck and neck when you have both in front of you. Another Senna-Prost situation, really. So, make sure you don't have the entire bottles in front of you—it could be dangerous. And just to be clear, Whiskyfun will accept absolutely no responsibility for any suddenly uncontrollable behaviour on your part, including, but not limited to, divorce.

By the way, apologies for all the perhaps overly enthusiastic adjectives and adverbs today, but we truly were among some of the very finest cognacs.

Good, next Sunday, we'll be sampling a fine selection of vintage cognacs from before 1970. Not sure the average score will be as high as today, but stay tuned!

Check the index of all cognacs we've tasted so far


November 23, 2024

Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland

Today… we Longrow!

Inspired by my previous session with Springbank, I felt we should continue and vanquish all the outstanding Longrow samples. I love Longrow, a lot! When at its best, I believe it remains one of the most distinctive malts in Scotchland, however, I think it’s also one of the most easily scramble-able makes as well - all you need is some unlikely wine cask and you have the makings of some very expensive vegetable stock! Anyway, let’s see what we have today, we’ll try to do this in order of theoretical potency, rather than by age or vintage, for once.

Longrow 1987 (46%, Kirsch Import, cask #120, 360 bottles)
Not sure when this one was bottled, but I think safe to assume young, probably around 8yo. Colour: very pale white wine. Nose: ink, printer paper, mud, wet leaves, damp bonfires, coal soot, a hint of geraniums. Characterful but youthful distillate, no doubt. Gives a little waxy and sheep wool impression and, with time, gains a more pronounced coastal side. Mouth: much better with a more vividly ‘Longrow’ personality now. Nicely chunky and peppery peat, lots of drying and crisp coastal impressions, citrus rinds, coal smoke, tar and a few gentle medicinal qualities such as bandages and ointments. Finish: good length, a big, drying smokiness, warming peaty flavours and seawater. Comments: the nose was a tad uncertain, but everything arrived in its place on the palate. Reminds me of some much later, very quaffable batches of Longrow CV in some ways.
SGP: 465 - 88 points.

Longrow 16 yo (46%, OB for Spanish market, SC999, screw cap, 75cl, +/-1990)
Colour: pale gold. Nose: much lighter than expected and very lemony at first nosing, really on citrus curds and liqueurs, but then the peat starts to unfurl, a very soft quilt of elegant, drying peat smoke, hints of eucalyptus leaf, white miso and sandalwood. Superb elegance! Mouth: once again, a very delicate old Longrow. The same sense of soft peat, but with a rather brittle, fragility to it now. Soft coastal notes, smoked sea salt, camphor, linseed oil, old rolling tobacco, dried herbs, lapsing souchong tea, wormwood - a lot of things all at once, yet still remaining very gentle with it. Some dried seaweed and bouillon broth too. Finish: long, but gentle once again, full of graceful peaty, waxy and lemony qualities. Some herbal teas and infusions in the aftertaste. Comments: There’s a beauty about this, which was to be expected given the pedigree, but there’s also a fragility about it which probably costs it a couple of points if we are being honest. Definitely a whisky which would have benefitted from a higher bottling strength, unless this one has softened in bottle considerably over the years?
SGP: 563 - 89 points.

Longrow 14 yo (46%, OB, rotation 07/141, pale vatting)
Meaning this was bottled in 2007. I remember when this bottling first came out, I purchased one from Loch Fyne Whiskies with great excitement, I’ve always had a big soft spot for this bottling since then. Colour: white wine. Nose: ahh yes! Impeccable coastal freshness, mineral peat smoke, pure tar, wet beach pebbles, sheep wool, lemon juice, sardines with parsley and olive oil and pure seawater. Mouth: fantastically powerful and pure peaty flavour on arrival. More of these big coastal impressions of sardines, anchovies, tar, pickling brine, seawater, camphor and soy sauce. Very salty in fact, full on briny, tarry and peaty mode! Finish: very long, fantastically on brine, lemon juice, tar, wet rocks, chalk, mineral salts and a tiny glimmer of aniseed. Comments: I think these mid-era batches of the 14 were this rather humble bottlings pinnacle, the earlier batches had much more sherry and, while very good, didn’t have the raw power and vivid purity of character that this one displays.
SGP: 366 - 91 points.

What about a pair of sherried 18 year olds…?

Longrow 18 yo (46%, OB, rotation 12/155, sherry)
A 2012 release. Colour: deep gold. Nose: that familiar Springbank sherry cask ‘accent’, which is full of cooking oils, groundnuts, mushrooms, roast pheasant and pipe tobaccos. It’s this combination of gamey, earthy and metallic that is so specific, but this gives way to the peat rather rapidly and it becomes much more ‘Longrow-esque’ with pure, tarry peat, crushed seashells, soy sauce, squid ink. Also lots of tarred rope, aniseed and camphor. Pretty brilliant nose! Mouth: the sherry and the peat don’t quite clash, but they vie for your attention. Lots of overripe oranges and spiced marmalade, along with natural tar, more camphor, tar, gentian, liquorice root and big umami notes of miso and anchovy paste. Big, complicated and powerful whisky - the sort of thing that only Springbank would release as an official 18 year old. Finish: long, very salty, umami, gamey, richly peaty and warming. Comments: I think the sherry does make this tricky in some regards. It’s excellent whisky, and some parts show glimmers of true brilliance, but the sherry brings a slight discombobulation at times. There are plenty other batches of Longrow 18 from bourbon which are solid 92 point material.
SGP: 466 - 88 points.

Longrow 18 yo (46%, OB, 2022 release, sherry)
Colour: pale amber. Nose: the sherry here is a bit flintier, leaner, more mineral and more on earthy and tobacco notes. It’s also a little bigger in terms of overall sherry influence than the 2012 I would say. The peat is perhaps a little more subservient to the sherry in that regard, lots of thick tarry vibes, camphor, salted liquorice and growing notes of anchovy paste, soy sauce and miso - these sherried Longrow can be really umami! Mouth: ah yes! Once again these colliding notes of roast game meats, gravy and dry roast peanuts, but with a more cohesive and integrated phenolic character and peat profile. Very thick, peppery, gamey, leathery and with many tobaccos, liquorice, pure tar extract and old Fernet Branca vibes. Finish: long, on herbal bitters, camphor, soy sauce and game meats again. Comments: I would characterise these fully sherried, modern Longrow bottlings as whiskies for your tumbler, whereas the bourbon cask ones are more for your copita. I love this, but they’re quite rugged, challenging malts.
SGP: 466 - 89 points.

Longrow 21 yo (46%, OB, 30% bourbon, 60% sherry, 10% chardonnay, bottled 2022)
Colour: gold. Nose: tar, coal embers, wet rocks, sheep wool, some candied fruit notes that also imply citrus curds and various types of marmalade. Maintains a good level of peaty purity and freshness, with a nicely building mineral character. Mouth: good, spicy arrival, but I feel this is a step down from the 18s. There’s a slightly jammy aspect and a touch of winey wood character that feels a bit out of whack with the peat influence. Some ginger wine, camphor, rusty nail cocktail, aniseed and resinous fir wood. It’s fine, but I feel like the gentle promise of the nose has been somewhat lost. Finish: medium, again a slight feeling of sappy wood, with green pepper, damp smoke and some funny rice wine impressions. Comments: the nose was promising, but the cask bill doesn’t convince on the palate for me I’m afraid. I feel like Longrow, for all its power, can actually be quite a fragile distillate under the influence of conflicting wood types.
SGP: 555 - 85 points.

Longrow 14 yo 2007/2022 (54.5%, Cadenhead ‘Wood Range - Wine Cask’, Sauternes cask, 246 bottles)
Fully matured in Sauternes. I’m not a fan of wine casks usually, but I have a soft spot for Sauternes casks, which I think can often work quite well with whisky. Let’s hope we are a long way from Longrow Tokaji wood… Colour: pale amber. Nose: soft, clean peat smoke and coastal notes. Some smoked fish, tarred rope, black pepper and hints of miso and soy sauce. So far, so good… With water: gets much more rugged, salty and tarry. More big impressions of smoked and salt cured fish, brine and aniseed. Mouth: the Sauternes is more evident here, but it’s all on spiced honeys, camphor, muscle rub, tar extracts and herbal bitters - all good in other words. I rather like this syrupy and concentrated style that still lets the Longrow peaty qualities shine through. With water: lovely notes of smoked olive oil, kippers with lemon juice, pure tar, TCP, horseradish and preserved lemons. Finish: long, very peaty, tarry, peppery, with iodine, gherkin brine and capers. Comments: not sure I’d have mentioned Sauternes if it wasn’t on the label. I like it a lot.
SGP: 466 - 88 points.

Longrow 17 yo 2004/2021 (49.5%, Cadenhead ‘Wood Range’, rum barrel, 210 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: no obvious rum influence, instead this is really limey and lemony and pure, with white flowers, seawater, grapefruit juice and paraffin. Rather precise and sharp in this sense, with some cider apple, chalk and hay in the background. Mouth: very coastal and sharp, with some great and playful notes of gherkin, kipper, tar, aniseed, coal dust and wet beach pebbles. That chalkiness is also back and begins to involve, bitter herbs, crushed aspirin and lemon juice on fresh oysters. A very sharp, pure and mineral malt whisky - it’s more Mezcal than rum in that regard I would say. Finish: long and very sharp, on lime juice, bone dry cider, sourdough and strong vibes of penicillin cocktails! Comments: I like it specifically because it tastes like a very sharp, pure and tightly coastal Longrow, and very little like rum.
SGP: 465 - 87 points.

Longrow 20 yo 2001/2022 (47.9%, OB for Springbank Society, six refill barrels, 1488 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: we’re immediately back at that pale vatting 14yo, pure, crisp peat smoke, tar, seawater, anchovies, smoked olive oil, smoked teas and kippers. Also iodine, lemon juice, green olives and mineral oils. Recalls some of those 1970s vintages in some respects. Mouth: great arrival, a harmonious blend of pure peat smoke, seawater, capers in brine, lemon juice on oysters and some slightly fruitier suggestions of grapefruit and green herbs. I love this simple purity and vividness of personality. Finish: long, very lemony and brightly citric, some sourdough and yeasty notes, camphor, putty, lime, fennel seed and bonfire smoke. Wonderfully salty and peaty aftertaste! Comments: rather simplistic in some respects, but I just love this pure, refill style Longrow that gives the distillate maximum stage time. Beautiful purity and a glorious aftertaste.
SGP: 465 - 90 points.

Longrow 13 yo 1998/2012 (55%, Cadenhead ‘Authentic Collection’, bourbon hogshead, 306 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: gherkins strike once again, but with a really emphatic, thick peaty character, then pink grapefruit, smoked olive oil, seawater and very delicate hints of geranium, miso, spearmint and tea tree oil. Feels deceptively complex on the nose in fact. With water: evolves beautifully, with preserved lemons, bay leaf, cedar wood and camphor. Still with this really thick, slightly muddy peaty character at its heart. Mouth: proper Longrow, very in keeping with the 20yo, but earthier, rootier, more herbal and more fermentary. Lots of cider apple, sourdough, medicinal herbs, gentian, tar, aniseed and roast parsnip. Add to that a farmy quality that keeps growing, full on sheep wool, coal tar soap, muddy bog vibes etc. I love it! With water: superb now! Big, medicinal peat, very coastal, fat, waxy, syrupy almost in texture, smoked olive oil, salted almonds, tar, caraway and iodine. Finish: long, getting drying, smoky, full of ointments, sea salt, minerals and tar. Comments: I really think Longrow needs the humblest of cask types to show at its best. With these, plus time, it cannot be improved upon in my view. This lovely 1998 being one very good example of that.
SGP: 566 - 90 points.

Excellent, I think we have sufficiently Longrowed for one day. Big thanks to Cicada, KC and Andy!

Check the index of all Longrow we've tasted so far

Concert Review by Nick Morgan
Nick Cave and thew Bad Seeds
Glasgow Hydro, Sunday 3rd November

Billy Graham preaching at Wembley (Daily Mail obituary)

I am neither the first, nor I imagine the last person to observe that of recent times Nick Cave concerts have become rather like intense religious experiences, as if the one-time daemon of rock and roll has formed an unholy alliance with the man (or woman) upstairs. It all seemed to start changing around 2013 with the release of Push the Sky Away, when Cave developed a penchant for plunging into his audience (a la Iggy Pop), leaving a procession of fevered proselytes in his wake.

He pretty much sticks to the stage these days, but when he’s not at the piano he mostly leaning forward into the crowd beseeching them to follow his word. My last two Cave and the Bad Seeds outings (2018 and 2022) were in London’s Victoria Park (the All Points East festival), which had the feeling of a revivalist meeting. an old fashioned tent show of the sort my dad remembered the Methodists doing when he was a boy in Herefordshire. Tonight, at Glasgow’s Hydro (around 15,000 capacity), it feels more like one of those Billy Graham London Crusade meetings at Wembley Stadium (in the 1950s, 70,000 capacity). Who will declare the truth? Who will be saved?

Of course a lot of water has flown under the bridge since 2013. Personal tragedy for Nick Cave and his family. A global pandemic (nothings the same, right?). Three albums with the Bad Seeds – Skeleton Tree, Ghosteen, and this year’s Wild God (‘this masterpiece will make you fall back in love with life’ said Alexis Petridis in The Guardian). 2021’s Carnage, a remarkable collaboration with Bad Seed Warren Ellis, and my first IRL concert after Covid in October of that year at the Royal Albert Hall, a very memorable event simply for that, if not also for the astonishing performance Cave also performed a livestreamed and beautifully filmed solo show (Idiot Prayer) from the Ally Pally in the height of the lockdown in June 2020, which I imagine had more than a few of use crying tears into our medicinal martinis. Oh – and for the record Donald Trump has twice been elected President of the United States.

Outside the Hydro a group of flag waving protestors are expressing their anger at Cave’s longstanding refusal to join the cultural boycott of Israel. Upstairs in the peanut gallery one of them stands up (I note after almost two hours of the concert) and begins to rebuke Cave with a torrent of expletives heard only by those in the immediate seats – as he was led away by a steward he was followed by a chorus of ‘get tae fuck’ from the workshop of the world’s music lovers. By the time we left they were all away, no doubt at the pub.

On stage are a very hybrid bunch of Bad Seeds. Keyboards stalwart Conway Savage died in 2018, and due to illness induced absences bass player Martyn P Casey and drummer Thomas Wylder are replaced by Radiohead’s Colin Greenwood and sometimes Stooge Larry Mullins (aka Toby Dammit). Carly Paradis is on keyboards. Also on stage are longstanding guitarist George Vjestica, even longer-standing and towering percussionist and drummer Jim Sclavunos, and Cave’s principal collaborator violinist and guitarist Warren Ellis. Towards the end of the show Cave described them as ‘the best rock and roll band in the world’ – well I’ve seen numerous incarnations of the Bad Seeds over the years; they never disappoint, and always shock and awe. But perhaps driven by the intensity of Cave’s performance, and the way with back to the audience he urges them on, like a magician trying to conjure up some malevolent familiar, they achieve a level of shock and awe that, in keeping with the evening, is transcendent.

Nick Cave

The set begins with the opening three songs from Wild God (there are eight in total, all of which stand shoulder to shoulder with the older more familiar material), and then ‘Oh Children’ from Abattoir Blues, which might seem like an unlikely choice for a Harry Potter movie soundtrack, but no doubt it helped pay for the always lovely outfits the band wear. ‘Perhaps the biggest difference between touring with Radiohead and Nick Cave’, said Greenwood interviewed in The New Statesman, ‘is the sartorial elegance of the Bad Seeds. Every evening in our dressing room, we are presented with a rack of steamed and pressed suits, and starched and ironed shirts’ (for the record, and to maintain political balance, I should add that Warren Ellis got two pages in The Spectator). Behind and above Greenwood are the four backing singers Janet Ramus, T Jae Cole, Miça Townsend and Wendi Rose, the ladies decked out in flowing silver gowns designed by Susie Cave whose glorious singing adds a particular gospel feeling to many of the songs. But don’t get complacent. After Children the Bad Seeds launched the first unprovoked assault on the audience with the crescendo to Jubilee Street. They like a nice crescendo do the Bad Seeds; this is the first of many, each more visceral than the last. Greenwood described it (in the NME) as a ‘euphoric intensity’ – he’s not wrong.

‘I’m a storyteller’ says Cave to the audience, ‘It’s what I do. I tell stories for old people’. One of the most moving stories of the evening is Wild Ghost’s ‘Joy’ – a conversation between a grieving father and a lost child. ‘I woke up this morning with the blues all around my head,

I felt like someone in my family was dead …’. It’s hard to read the lyrics to this one, let alone hear them sung, without crying, but the song surprises you with its unexpectedly optimistic ending. ‘We've all had too much sorrow, now is the time for joy’ says the lost boy, and joyous is how the song ends. As I recall the Hydro listened in perfect silence, as they did for the eventual encore, a solo performance at the piano of ‘Into My Arms’.

Nick Cave

In between that Cave sang like a man possessed, danced and gyrated like Scott Walker’s singer with a Spanish bum, bounded up and down the stage from drummer Mullins to the worshiping crowd, like a man half his age. As Cave warmed to his congregation The Dear Green Place went from ‘Glasgow’, to ‘fucking Glasgow’ to ‘motherfucking Glasgow’ which I took to be the highest form of praise. Sclavunos caressed his vibraphone and hammered his bells. Mullins waved his arms and battered his drums and timpani. Greenwood, eyes often fixed on Mullins, powered through the tunes like an old-timer. Carly Paradis was mostly hidden and surrounded by keyboards, but occasionally took centre stage on Cave’s (Yamaha C7) piano. George Vjestica, almost motionless on left stage, played perfect acoustic and electric guitars and sang. Ellis was as flamboyant as ever, fiddle in the air, pedal driven guitars and loops providing a mesmerising background to the ceremony.

There are two songs from Carnage, ‘Cinnamon Horses’ and ‘Carnage’ and from the back catalogue ‘Tupelo’, ‘Red Right Hand’, ‘The Mercy Seat’, ‘Papa won’t leave you, Henry’ and ‘The Weeping Song’. If you know the material, you’ll know exactly where and when the shock and awe moments were in that bunch. And like I said, each one more shocking than the last. You do wonder quite how long Mr Cave and his bad Bad Seeds can keep this up for – there comes a point when all bands are supposed to slow down a little, but they all seem to be so driven that they just get better and stronger each time I see them. Long may it motherfucking last. - Nick Morgan


November 22, 2024

Four Macallan, maybe not
(to Mariah Carey)

Colmar

Colmar (Alsace) Christmas market.

The signs don’t lie—Christmas is already on its way. Our American friends are dusting off Mariah Carey, while their British allies are doing the same with the late, great Shane MacGowan and Kirsty MacColl. Meanwhile, the inimitable French railway workers are announcing their traditional strikes, as they do every year at this time. Over in Alsace, towns—most notably our neighbour Colmar, which has essentially turned into the region’s Disneyland in recent years—are decking themselves out with millions of fairy lights in the most improbable colours, which will drain the power output of a medium-sized nuclear power station. Enough to leave you with sore eyes for five days straight. Be sure to pack your sunglasses if you’re coming this way.
As for us, we’re sampling another two or three Macallans.

An Iconic Speyside 13 yo 2011/2024 (53.9%, Duncan Taylor for Wine4you, octave, cask #2945209, 43 bottles)

9 months in an octave. Now then, calling something ‘iconic’ is always a bit provocative, isn’t it? If we’re honest, the word suggests Macallan – though somehow, I doubt that’s the case here. And if it isn’t Macallan, can it really be iconic? But let’s not get too caught up in semantics. After all, the word ‘iconic’ doesn’t necessarily imply quality, does it? In French, it might just mean ‘A Particularly Representative Speyside.’ Either way, we digress. Shall we? Colour: amber. Nose: a tricky one to pin down, this. We’re constantly swinging between Macallan and Glenfarclas thanks to a rather bold sherry influence. Could it be another distillery? Possibly, but then, would it still qualify as ‘iconic’? Notes of raisins, pipe tobacco, a faint whiff of flintstone, and then almonds and stewed cherries. There are also bright puffs of orange jam being made. With water: leans slightly towards young balsamic and Pinot Noir, but doesn’t quite reach the untidy vicar territory (you know what I mean). Mouth (neat): cherries again, kirsch, a good dose of pepper, plenty of bitter almonds, leather, and tobacco, before it turns towards heavily steeped black tea and those inevitable pencil shavings – almost certainly the octave at work. With water: cherry kirsch chocolate. Finish: long, drier, and very peppery. Comments: it’s very good but a touch rough around the edges, with the sherry feeling a tad disjointed. Still, there’s a lot to enjoy here, but these octaves are as tricky to handle as Formula 1 cars, aren’t they?
SGP:361 - 84 points.

Macallan 19 yo 2005/2024 ‘Speymalt’ (56.5%, Gordon & MacPhail for Wine4you, cask #22606309)

A sister cask to the excellent recent Speymalt 2005 for La Maison du Whisky (#22606305, WF 89), so likely very similar… Colour: rich gold. Nose: softer, rounder, and more immediately inviting than the ‘iconic’ Speyside, perhaps more suited to the lounge than the countryside. Roasted chestnuts, gentle pipe tobacco, a hint of floral liqueur (mullein), followed by delicate notes of beeswax and propolis. Then come the orangettes – candied orange zest dipped in dark chocolate – a proper indulgence. With water: touches of mint, camphor, and eucalyptus add a refreshing lift. Mouth (neat): black pepper takes charge straight away, soon joined by caramelised pecans and roasted hazelnuts. Another sinful treat. With water: back to candied oranges, alongside fir honey and a few drops of peppermint liqueur. Finish: long, with intensely steeped black tea asserting itself once again, accompanied by its trusty partner, pepper. Cocoa and mint linger in the aftertaste. Comments: just like its sister cask, there’s a distinct Amontillado-like quality here. Unsurprisingly, it’s a big hit. Not much separates this one from the recent LMDW release.
SGP:561 – 89 points.

Since we’ve mentioned La Maison du Whisky…

Secret Speyside 18 yo 2005/2024 (57.6%, Signatory Vintage, LMDW Foundations, 1st fill sherry butt, cask #DRU 17/A106#45, 575 bottles)

One wonders who was tasked with concocting the rather labyrinthine cask number here. Thankfully, the LMDW website offers plenty of breadcrumbs pointing to this baby’s origins (Craigellachie, 1824, first official 18-year-old in 1984, etc.), sparing us the guessing game. Colour: mahogany. Nose: utterly classic, brimming with toasted bread, prunes, sultanas, milk chocolate, and its much darker sibling, plus very old cream sherry (VORS), molasses, and a touch of broth. Quintessential sherried Speyside, really. Right, iconic. With water: an old aviator’s leather jacket, wafts of pipe tobacco, and a delightful return of the prunes. Mouth (neat): the Christmas cake strikes again! A cascade of dates, figs, dried bananas, and pears, alongside hints of kirsch and mid-aged Armagnac. You get the drift. With water: here comes the leather again, joined by beef jerky, black pepper, dark tobacco (Gauloise, no less), and the most intense dark chocolate. That brooding richness is just splendid. Finish: long, dry, still peppery, with a faint foxiness akin to that of a venerable old Burgundy. The oak also makes a stronger showing now. Comments: right up there with the very best Speymalts. Same vintage, you say? No surprise, really.
SGP: 561 – 89 points.

Let's dig through our archives for a fourth and final one…

Speyside 28 yo 1988 (58.4%, Lotus Lord, Taiwan, pre-used sherry casks, 5,000 bottles, +/-2017)

There’s a rumour floating about that this single malt may well be M., though nothing’s certain, and deciphering Chinese text can be a challenge – Google’s attempts are particularly woeful. By the way, this 'Lotus Lord' has nothing whatsoever to do with Colin Chapman. Make of that what you will. Colour: red mahogany. Nose: let’s admit it, this is a cracking nose – compact, balanced, and laden with dried dates and marzipan (always a favourite). It also carries a fine old Cognac vibe, with immense elegance in the measured cascade of subtler notes that follows: English cigarettes, figs, heather honey, broom, jasmine… Tremendously refined, and more than plausible as M. With water: chestnut cream and maquis honey – Corsican honey, if you prefer. Mouth (neat): starts off with a prickle of pepper, sulphur, and clove, then segues into rare black teas, rich dark chocolate, and brown tobacco mingled with floral and fruity jellies – rose, quince... With water: softens beautifully, despite fears it might have turned dry or tannic. There’s an interplay of old sweet wines and more dark chocolate – a timelessly splendid pairing. Finish: long, perfectly peppery, with fig jam, orange marmalade, liquorice, dark chocolate, and a whisper of chilli. Comments: loves a drop of water, which reins it in splendidly whenever it veers off track. A dramatic illustration of why adding water to whisky is essential (I never skip it with anything over 50% ABV), though each to their own. A very marvellous malt, but really not sure it’s M...
SGP: 562 - 91 points.


November 21, 2024

More Secret Whiskies

Sometimes, you have an inkling of what it might be, but there’s nothing on the label to confirm it. Fortunately, the name of the bottlers is often there to reassure us. In the end, which is better: an unknown malt from a reputable house or a well-known malt with an average reputation?

Theia 1 11 yo 2010/2011 (52.8%, Scotch Universe, Highlands single malt, first fill PX hogshead)

A nod in the direction of Teaninich, I suspect. Colour: gold. Nose: the sherry influence has imparted earthy undertones, fallen leaves, bay leaf, and hints of old copper coins and well-used tools tucked away in the basement, plus a touch of walnut wine (or Nusswasser). With water: still spicy but increasingly layered with bitter oranges, marmalade, and cherry stems. Mouth (neat): a dry sherry profile, slightly brusque yet enjoyable, offering notes of pepper, tobacco, and leather. With water: a more pronounced fruitiness emerges, featuring pepper-dusted figs alongside leather and orange zest. Finish: long, retaining its spiciness and leafy character, with a hint of fresh green wood and a touch of bitter beer. Comments: charming in its own way, albeit a touch rustic—it doesn't aim for that plush, cosseting comfort, if you catch my drift.
SGP:461 - 83 points.

Peated Billy G 9 yo 2013/2023 (50%, Claxton’s Exploration Series, Blended Malt, bourbon barrel)

All signs point towards this being a Dalrymple, the trade name for William ‘Billy’ Grant’s Ailsa Bay. Colour: white wine. Nose: smoked Williams pears over beechwood, with sage leaves, mint, borage, a touch of charcoal, tallow, small green apples, and a whisper of mezcal. With water: takes on a hint of crushed slate. Mouth (neat): sharp, well-defined peat with a distinctly herbal edge, modelling clay, paraffin, and mustard. With water: delightful, leaning a bit medicinal with notes of mouthwash, ashes, mild mustard, walnuts, curry, and manzanilla sherry. Finish: fairly long, drier, peppery, and smoky. Comments: I must say, these indie Ailsa Bays making the rounds lately are quite impressive. They could greatly bolster the distillery’s reputation over there at Girvan—if only the name weren’t kept under wraps.
SGP:455 - 86 points.

Peated Highland 22 yo 2000/2023 (54%, Watt Whisky, sherry hogshead, 294 bottles)

A peated Highland distilled in 2000—could it be an Ardmore? Colour: amber. Nose: I’m not convinced it’s Ardmore; there’s too much of that old metal, dried mushrooms, peppered smoke, lamp oil, leather and tobacco, sheep tallow, paprika, and peppermint. It feels more like we’re near Fort William, with that delightfully chaotic mix of aromas we cherish. With water: the unmistakable scent of resinous wood burning nearby. Mouth (neat): sulphurous, peppery, meaty, and mentholated… it’s quite intense and wonderfully discordant, reminiscent of the Sun Ra Arkestra—truly, space is the place. With water: notes of waxes, green walnuts, varnish and glues, dark tobacco (like Italian Toscani cigars), and broth. Finish: long, with the same flavours shuffled into a different order, finishing on tobacco and aged walnut. Comments: utterly bonkers, and that’s precisely what we love about it. Flirting with the 90s.
SGP:474 - 89 points.

A Speyside Distillery 31 yo 1992/2023 ‘A Marriage of Casks’ (48.3%, The Single Malts of Scotland)

Colour: straw. Nose: showcases the quintessential style adored by the brand’s proprietors—think Imperial, Tauchers, Keith, and of course, Tormore. There’s a touch of old wood (painted surfaces, ripe banana, almond milk), followed by a bag of fully ripened apples, honey mead, beeswax, broom flowers, a hint of kirsch, and small wild plums. It’s utterly charming, carrying a subtle, delicate fragility that’s quite moving—yes, really. Mouth: like a handful of jellybeans that have weathered thirty years, alongside a bit of fudge, hops, buttercream, blueberry muffins, and—unexpectedly—two or three winkles (where did those come from?). It’s an intriguing mishmash but consistently gentle. The apple note swoops in to restore order at the end. Finish: lovely, featuring apple syrup, pink grapefruit, a hint of green anise, and a return of hops and honey. Comments: quite imperial in nature, but more Sissi than Franz Joseph. Make of that what you will.
SGP:551 - 89 points.

Images of Loch Ness (53.2%, Malts of Scotland, Corona Edition, bourbon barrel, cask #MoS 22014, 249 bottles, 2022)

Featuring the Point of Ayre Lighthouse on the label—hold on, that’s on the Isle of Man! Must ask Ralfy if there’s a distillery there now. Colour: white wine. Nose: delightful indeed. Mint scones, pineapple-banana cake, macarons, nougat… not a single off-note so far, but what exactly is this? With water: malt returns, with barley and cakes in tow. Mouth (neat): bursts with fruit syrups, fruit salad, fresh mint leaves, pears, mandarins, and little fruit candies, followed by a touch of allspice. I’m quite taken by it. With water: oh yes, very nice. Fruits, leaves, peels, pips, juices, and compotes all make an appearance. Finish: much the same, more or less, with hints of white wine—perhaps a touch of Pinot Blanc? Comments: a lovely, fruity NAS that just happened to cross our path.
SGP:651 - 85 points.

Highland Single Malt 1996/2017 (52.7%, Or Sileis, sherry, cask #13, 180 bottles)

Sorry, couldn’t find a better picture, in case you have one…Colour: deep gold. Nose: wax and walnuts. Could this be a Clynelish? With water: metal polish, old pennies, aged fabric, and geranium potting soil. Mouth (neat): classic notes of marmalade, walnuts, tangerines, green pepper, a hint of salt, and that dual-natured character typical of Clynelish matured in sherry during this era. With water: now I’m not so sure—it turns notably saline for a Clynelish and could well be Ben Nevis from Fort William, again. Finish: long, salty, with notes of leather and black tea. Comments: the cask influence makes the distillate less distinct. At this point, I’d lean towards Ben Nevis. Only fools don’t change their minds, do they say in DC.
SGP:462 - 86 points.

Seaweed & Aeons & Digging & Fire 10 yo ‘Cask Strength batch 09’ (55.6%, Atom, Islay single malt, bourbon & sherry, 550 bottles, 2024)

Batch 9 already! This series has piqued curiosity since its debut, and rightly so. Of course, one can simply enjoy drinking them... Colour: gold. Nose: intensely saline and thoroughly maritime. Think oysters with a splash of Tabasco and extra-brut champagne. The sherry influence is subtle. With water: evokes a beachside bonfire, fuelled by dried seaweed and driftwood. Mouth (neat): pure, fruity, saline peat. Notes of lemon, limoncello, seawater, green pepper, and a host of smoked elements. With water: mellows out a touch, becoming slightly oily, with hints of toasted sesame oil. Finish: smooth, rounded, effortlessly drinkable, with a touch of chocolate. The sherry starts to show itself here. Comments: really fond of this batch.
SGP:566 - 86 points.

Last one today…

Secret Island Distillery 15 yo 2007/2023 (53.5%, Discovery of the Abyss, #1, 115 bottles)

A whimsical nod to the deep seas—do look up Chauliodus sloani for a touch of intrigue. Colour: white wine, pale and inviting. Nose: quintessentially pure barley with a delightful waft of overripe apples, the invigorating tang of sea breezes, a whisper of cigarette tobacco, and a drizzle of heather honey that inevitably brings Highland Park to mind. With water: a curious blend of carbon, well-worn brake pads, honey, a gleaming new iPhone, and, naturally, those softened, near-forgotten apples. Mouth (neat): honey mingling with seawater, striking that perfect balance of sweet and brine—effortlessly harmonious, poised, never straying into indulgence. You catch my drift. With water: splendidly more herbaceous and intricate, a light touch of rubber, and a resinous hint that straddles propolis and hashish. Finish: long and beautifully saline, underscored by tar, pine resin, and honey—back to that heather honey, naturally. Comments: quite exceptional, this discreet northern island malt; it holds its secrets quite well.
SGP:552 - 89 points.


November 20, 2024

Two Opposing Deanstons

Deanston has been quite entertaining lately, with their ultra-creative (and sometimes improbable) finishes. We're eagerly awaiting the cod liver oil finish, but in the meantime, we'll be tasting two small independent releases. We do enjoy tasting Deanston, in just any case.

Deanston 11 yo ‘The Devil’s Bunghole Edition 001’ (50.1%, Naughty Fun, D&M Winchester, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #900258, 2024)

With official tasting notes such as ‘Clyde estuary water’, ‘William Wallace’s inescapable musk’, or ‘Not sh*te’, it’s clear that a) this is not an official bottling, b) nobody here is taking themselves too seriously, c) commercial ambitions are modest, and d) the whole concept was likely put together on a Friday night after a bit of pub crawling. We can only approve, especially since the ‘Edition 001’ label still exudes a certain swagger. Colour: amber. Nose: they’ve certainly pushed the envelope, so to speak, but surprisingly, it’s really not that bad—in fact, quite the opposite. The oloroso comes through with an almost graceful touch, without any hints of gas, rotten egg, aged truffle, or leek and cabbage soup, nor the scent of a rugby locker room post third half. It’s almost misleading advertising, wouldn’t you say? (we can joke too, ha-ha). In any case, a lovely oloroso profile with nuts, praline, tobacco, and coffee, along with a touch of liquorice wood—admittedly a bit excessive—and most notably, a cedar box of fifty large Cuban cigars. The kind the devil himself might smoke. With water: more cracked black pepper and bitter chocolate, but still no truly diabolical aromas. Mouth (neat): lots of walnut and tobacco, a bit over the top but surely appealing to many aficionados. Spicy marmalade, a saline touch, soy sauce, and a hint of leather. With water: excellent, by Beelzebub! Pepper, tobacco, juniper, and bitter almonds. Finish: long, fruitier with blood orange and a touch of Campari, then more pepper. That Campari note—now that’s devilish. Comments: an absolute scandal. Usually, whiskies are much worse than their tasting notes on the label suggest, but here, it’s quite the reverse. I’ll be seeing my lawyer first thing tomorrow morning about this; unless, of course, he’s already on the golf course. On a Thursday. As usual.
SGP:462 - 87 points.

Right, some ex-bourbon to recover...

Deanston 12 yo 2011/2023 (59.9%, A.D. Rattray, bourbon barrel, cask #800049, 208 bottles)

Well, here we have quite the opposite indeed, or so it seems… Colour: white wine. Nose: always a pleasure to confirm that Deanston shines at its natural best, unadorned and unaltered. Delightful notes of peanut oil, green apple juice, honeysuckle, and jasmine, with a touch of gooseberry. It feels nicely textured while remaining fresh, cheerful, and invigorating. With water: turns slightly cloudy, releasing paraffin, candle wax, and a hint of fresh coriander, mercifully without soapiness. Mouth (neat): crisp, taut, fruity, impeccable. Truly spot on, with green apple juice, melon, and lemon, spiced with pepper, liquorice, and nutmeg, plus a hint of wild thyme (softer than common thyme) and dill. With water: waxiness re-emerges, accompanied by white pepper and coriander seed. Lovely mouthfeel, though it sacrifices a touch of its fruitiness when diluted (alas, we cannot linger as long as one might wish when reducing our drams). Finish: long, with a return of lemon and green apples. Splendid. Comments: thrilled to have found the perfect counterpoint to the Devil’s own Deanston. Loved both the same, in the end.
SGP:551 - 87 points.

Check the index of all Deanston we've tasted so far


November 19, 2024

Quelques Kilkerran

We've put the title in French because it gives us an alliteration, which is the favourite crutch of authors who are either pretty lousy or very tired. There we have it. Aside from that, we are set to taste some Springbank soon, but today we’d rather savour its younger sibling, Glengyle/Kilkerran, which was refurbished and relaunched in 2004, if memory serves me right. By the way, while independent Springbank bottlings are easy to come by – often pricey but excellent – I don’t think I’ve ever managed to come across an independent Kilkerran, apart from those by WM Cadenhead, of course.

Kilkerran 8 yo ‘Sherry Cask Matured’ (57.4%, OB, oloroso, 2024)

We were quite taken by the 2022 release (WF 88). Colour: gold. Nose: this is by no means a heavy, smothering oloroso; rather, it opens with gunflint and smoked ham, followed by stewed rhubarb and white currants, bringing a lovely freshness. A touch of tobacco, coffee, and leather, but all handled with a light touch. With water: notes of lemon and a hint of lard, chalk, courgette flower, and raw wool (let’s say a new jumper from your favourite label—Gucci, if you must). Mouth (neat): immensely powerful yet lively and refined, with a saline and mineral profile reminiscent of certain finos. Tobacco and a rooty character (gentian, celery). With water: superbly salty, with kirsch, green peppercorns, and bitter almonds—my favourites. Finish: long, echoing those mineral smoky notes. Comments: not a single reason to deviate from the score of two years ago. I do quite like this tense, vibrant sherry.
SGP:563 - 88 points.

Kilkerran ‘Heavily Peated Batch 10’ (57.8%, OB, 2024)

Predominantly ex-bourbon (90%). While NAS, the pricing remains fair if the quality holds up (€65-70). Colour: light gold. Nose: fresher than its sherried counterpart and distinctly youthful, with hints of medicinal alcohol, tincture of iodine, damp earth, a fair amount of baker’s yeast, and lime juice. The peat is notably less aggressive than the ‘heavily peated’ moniker might suggest. With water: much the same, with young spirit notes, bandages, and a touch of antiseptic (mercurochrome). Mouth (neat): youthful, showcasing eau-de-vie (Gravenstein apples), lemon, green pepper, and unripe walnuts. Slightly sharp. With water: that eau-de-vie quality persists, bordering on new-make, which, I must admit, has its charm. Fresh mushrooms make an appearance, while the peat stays relatively restrained. Finish: long, youthful, lemony, with walnut and apple peel. Comments: I do enjoy this, though a touch more maturity would elevate it further. Not overly ferocious, either.
SGP:555 - 85 points.

And last year’s while we’re at it…

Kilkerran ‘Heavily Peated Batch 9’ (59.2%, OB, 2023)

Let's see if we are close, very close, or extremely close—purely in the name of scientific inquiry, naturally. Colour: light gold. Nose: we are indeed very close, with this batch offering a touch more fruitiness (pear) and slightly less medicinal edge. Less tincture of iodine and mercurochrome, if you like. With water: notes of damp earth and baker’s yeast appear, alongside a hint of vanilla. Mouth (neat): even closer to Batch 10 here, with the same fresh, oily peat, slightly vegetal (rapeseed oil perhaps?) and a bright squeeze of lemon. It’s genuinely enjoyable. With water: truly delightful, zesty, and lemony with a ‘green’ sort of peatiness—if that makes sense. It’s more medicinal on the palate than it is on the nose. Finish: a touch of boot polish, hints of lime liqueur and green pepper, smoke, and a dash of amaro. Comments: simply very good. When holding both glasses side by side, I have a slight preference for Batch 9 over Batch 10, but they are very close.
SGP:555 - 86 points.

While we're at it, again purely for scientific purposes...

Kilkerran ‘Heavily Peated – Peat in Progress - Batch 5’ (57.27%, OB, 2021)

Kilkerran ‘Heavily Peated – Peat in Progress - Batch 5’ (57.7%, OB, 2021)

Peat in Progress? An intriguing notion, isn’t it? One wonders if it refers to an incremental infusion of peaty water into the casks or the addition of peat-like precursors during wort or wash stages. Colour: pale straw. Nose: this batch leans towards a richer, more oil-laden profile, adorned with subtle floral hints and a touch of furniture polish. Surprisingly, it comes across as more refined and even a tad more mature than later batches, such as 9 and 10. With water: we return to that rugged style familiar from previous editions, evoking freshly shorn sheep’s wool and a chalky minerality. Mouth (neat): a thoroughly enjoyable dram, exhibiting a sharper, greener, and distinctly peppery character, with lively lemon zest. With water: perhaps my favourite iteration, though narrowly so. The profile becomes cleaner and reveals fewer immature notes, though I must say, youth is not typically bothersome to me. Finish: briny whispers of seawater, crisp green apples, and a touch of bitter herbs – undeniably appealing. Comments: without the earlier batches on hand, one might be tempted to wonder if this could flirt with the 90-point border. Nevertheless, it’s clear that all three releases are excellent in their own right.
SGP:555 – 87 points.

(Thanks, Franco)


November 18, 2024

A duo of Cragganmore and a rare bonus

Let's be clear right away, we are very pleased to see a few independent Cragganmore releases again over the past two or three years. Today, we’ll be tasting two of them, as they’re not exactly in abundance, and we'll take the opportunity to add a bonus whose only connection to Cragganmore is that it starts and ends with the same letters. It’s a bit of an oddity, but waiting for a proper sparring partner could take months and months, especially as the distillery has been closed for a long time.
(Convalmore Distillery, Anne Burgess geograph.co.uk)

Cragganmore 1989/2023 (45.8%, Malts of Scotland, Rare Casks, sherry hogshead, cask #MoS 23003, 120 bottles)

What a splendid series these ‘Rare Casks’ from Malts of Scotland continue to be! As far as Cragganmore is concerned, I believe 1989 is the vintage most frequently encountered among independent bottlers over the past two decades or so—though I’m not suggesting it’s abundant. Incidentally, the recent 1985 COD for Wu Dram Clan and HK was superb (WF 91). Colour: deep gold. Nose: it opens like an old Armagnac, believe it or not, with sumptuous sultanas and prunes upfront before transitioning into a maltier realm filled with chocolate, chicory, coffee, muesli, toasted brioche, and turrón. In essence, the makings of a champion’s breakfast, as they say in those TV ads. Mouth: mirrors that old Armagnac vibe before veering confidently into aged malt territory, highlighted by properly heavy Italian espresso (‘or is not coffee’, as our Italian friends keep reminding us). A touch of leather and tobacco follows, leading gracefully to robust black tea. Finish: long, indeed, with dominant notes of strong black tea and slightly burnt, bitter caramel. That familiar turrón then asserts itself, accompanied by hints of bitter oranges. Comments: not overly complex, but perfectly constructed and reminiscent of the official bottlings from a few years back, those at the dawn of the Classic Malts era.
SGP:561 - 90 points.

Cragganmore 31 yo 1989/2020 (54.7%, The First Editions, Hunter Laing, refill hogshead, cask #HL17820, 242 bottles)

Colour: straw. Nose: immensely interesting, as it highlights how sherry can both elevate a whisky to something truly exceptional while occasionally suppressing the intricacies of the distillate. Here, we’re all about finesse: delicate fruits, white and yellow berries, blossoms, and herbs, with a hint of varnish and a subtly ‘deviant’ quality (in the best way), akin to dandelion honey. If you haven’t smelled that, do try—it’s quite unlike the flower itself. There’s an evolving resemblance to a lightly macerated white wine, or at least one that’s been stirred on the lees. Chardonnay comes to mind. It’s a joy to drift into the world of wine here. With water: waxiness reminiscent of Clynelish! It only gets better… Mouth (neat): superbly focused on citrus, and small, slightly bitter apples and pears. Nothing more, nothing less at first. With water: could we double-check the cask stencil or the barcode? Blindfolded, I’d guess Clynelish, circa 1983. Finish: long, full of wax and white fruits, with that distinctive touch of cédrat. I told you—Clynelish vibes. Comments: sublime, with an extra point or two for its aromatic lineage. Another malt to challenge your whisky-loving friends in a blind tasting.
SGP:651 - 91 points.

That bonus now...

Convalmore 39 yo 1984/2024 (51.1%, Gordon & MacPhail, The Recollection Series #3, refill sherry hogshead, cask #1733, 108 bottles)

Rather characteristic of Gordon & MacPhail not to wait for this dram to hit a more symbolic forty years before bottling, a step many others might have taken. And at 51.1%, it's certainly not a question of low ABV compelling an early release. Convalmore, let’s remember, met its end in 1985 during the industry's second wave of closures, the buildings being now part of the William Grant complex in Dufftown. And could there be wax here as well? Colour: light mahogany. Nose: an intriguing old bourbon-like quality emerges, filled with macarons and a hint of wood glue, soon followed by a large bag of assorted nuts—including the bag itself (think burlap)—and a waft of rose petals. It's a captivating nose, transporting one straight to the shores of the Bosphorus with a plate of Turkish delight. Not much wax so far. With water: notes of balsamic, strong coffee, and walnut husk join the mix. Simply magnificent. Mouth (neat): reminiscent of venerable VORS sherry, old Maury, chocolate infused with brandy, maple syrup, fig jam, and even dulce de leche with a hint of honeyed sweet tea. It certainly speaks volumes. With water: prune soaked in brandy, aged plum, a touch of mint, black tea, and even a hint of broth for good measure. Noticeably drier than anticipated from the nose. Finish: sweetness makes a comeback in the form of sultanas. Yet, oddly enough, any hint of wax seems absent, perhaps is it deftly hidden behind the rather sumptuous sherry. Final flourish of candied oranges. Comments: tasted blind, without the Convalmore profile fresh in mind, and considering the sherry's prominent voice, one might have guessed an old 'D' from the Cromarty Firth. Richly laden, but utterly top-notch.
SGP:651 - 90 points.

Check the index of all Cragganmore we've tasted so far