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Hi, you're in the Archives, September 2022 - Part 2
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September 30, 2022 |
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Little duos, two extremities
of French whisky |
Old French whiskies! There are tons of new malt whisky distilleries in France these days (well, distilleries that are making whisky, which is not exactly the same concept), but French whiskies that are +/- 15 to 20 years old are extremely rare and surely stuff of pioneers. Let's have two of them…
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Eddu 21 yo 2001/2022 'Graal' (43%, OB, France, 304 bottles) 
This is buckwheat whisky, which Eddu, a.k.a. Distillerie des Menhirs in the far west of Brittany have pioneered in the very early 2000s already (they had released their first buckwheat whisky back in 2002). Buckwheat a.k.a. black wheat or sarasin is a very traditional 'quasi' or 'pseudo' cereal in Brittany, with the best crêpes made out of it (yum!) Frankly, some are making whisky out of rice, so why not buckwheat. Yeah, I know rice IS a cereal. What's more, we've already tried some excellent Eddu in the past. Colour: deep gold. Nose: we're wandering between old malt and old cognac territories, with this peachy sweetness, honeys, raisins, ripe melons, ripe damsons, then vanilla and brioche, a floral side (dandelions), perhaps a little mead, beeswax, old firwood, mirabelles, macaroons… I find it lovely and extremely civilised, as there are strictly no obvious woody tones. Mouth: once again you could believe this is old cognac, and we shall not complain. Raisins, more honey and beeswax, orange zests, tarte tatin, preserved peaches, dried figs… and still no obvious tannins. Extremely seductive. Finish: medium, still very fresh and fruity, with touches of agricole rum this time (really) and raisins/honey in the aftertaste. Comments: an awesome spirit. Oh and I'm finding it funny that while just everyone in Charentes is also making whisky these days, some Breton whiskymakers would have managed to make a wonderful 'cognacqy whisky' using some pseudocereal. Great fun, very superb drop, very well done.
SGP:641 - 88 points. |
A short drive from the west of Brittany to the north of Alsace (that's only around 1,000 kilometres after all…) |
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Uberach 2004/2022 (46.5%, LMDW, Version Française, Banyuls cask) 
So this insane Alsatian malt whisky has first spent a lot of time in an ex-Banyuls cask (heavy sweet wine), was then reracked into small virgin casks, and then let to rest in demijohns since 2017. So technically, I believe it is a 12 or 13 years old. Oh and the colour alone is a little frightening. Colour: dark mahogany. Really. Nose: tar and black Corinthian currants, stewed rhubarb, morello cherries, old Burgundy (say Clos Parantoux by Henri Jayer – joking but thank god you don't have to pay when quoting a wine), a lot of walnut stain, other herbal decoctions (peach leaves), and then a growing sweet fruitiness that really lifts it, around blackberries and cassis jelly. Some gamy notes in the background, grouse, wild boar, pheasant, umami, old soy sauce… Mouth: what a concoction. More walnut stain, pipe juice, a triple ristretto, black chocolate (like 85% cocoa), meats, more wild boar pâté, roasted chestnuts, black raisins, bouillons and broths, cold cuts, bresaola and Grisons meat, beef jerky, perhaps even Turkish 'pemican' (forgot the Turkish name)… Of and a lot of tobacco. Finish: long and a little leathery – this was to happen. Black 'Gauloise' tobacco in the aftertaste. Comments: whether this is totally legal or not, I wouldn't be too sure. Of course it is, great fun, well done Master Jean!
SGP:572 - 86 points. |
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September 2022 |
Serge's favourite recent bottling this month:
Ardbeg 20 yo 2001/2022 (44.5%, The First Editions, for HNWS Taiwan, refill barrel, cask #HL18657, 146 bottles) - WF93
Serge's favourite older bottling this month:
None
Serge's favourite bang for your buck this month:
None
Serge's favourite malternative this month:
Uitvlugt 1989/2022 (46.7%, The Whisky Jury, Guyana, refill barrel, cask #8, 203 bottles) - WF91
Serge's Lemon Prize this month:
Ardbeg 2011/2020 (57.6%, OB, for Germany, 1st fill 'Cote Rotie', cask #2303, 302 bottles) - WF70 |
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September 29, 2022 |
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Little duos, today Glenfiddich
and gooseberries |
Fist time we try the new experimental Glenfiddich, called 'Orchard', while wondering whether they did not 'add pears to pears' with this combination – which would be a little tautological, no? Let's see… |
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Glenfiddich 'Orchard Experiment' (43%, OB, 2022) 
The story goes like they've finished a fairly young Glenfiddich in 'Somerset Pomona', which, as I understand it, is to Somerset what Pineau des Charentes is to, well Charentes. Basically a blend of apple juice with apple brandy (vs grape juice and cognac). Or there, pommeau from Calvados. What's more, this is a short finishing, 4 months. Colour: gold. Nose: indeed, pears to pears, plus some extra-zestiness brought by notes of green gooseberries and granny smith, making it somewhat gossamer. In the words of Rowan Atkinson, this is "very nice". A lighter honey in the background, perhaps acacia. Mouth: sweeter than your regular Glenfiddich, reminding us that that English pommeau is a liqueur, so very sweet. Certainly very good, but we've lost a part of the lightness that we really enjoyed when nosing it, while this would rather be geared towards Spanish apple liqueur, Manzana Verde or else. Still good though, thanks to the zesty apples. Finish: medium, sweet and zesty indeed, not unlike some good German rieslings. Comments: well, they did not quite add pears to pears, rather apples.
SGP:641 - 82 points. |
Another Glenfiddich please… |
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Glenfiddich 18 yo 'Small Batch' (40%, OB, +/-2022)
Ex oloroso and bourbon. Classic version of Glenfiddich, hope it'll be a little less thin than last time we tried it, back in 2016. Colour: gold. Nose: this one's much more buttery, cakey, with touches of sour wood (or walnut bur) and a curious feeling of fern and menthol, rather unexpected. A little cedarwood too, English breakfast tea, fig cookies… Really a fine nose, once again. Mouth: once again a cakey arrival, but this time rather with oranges and roasted nuts (and black nougat). The middle is rather drier, if not a little drying, with good leafy sherry. The oranges striking back after a while. Finish: medium, dry, with some tobacco, bitter chocolate, malt, plus indeed marmalade. Comments: I liked the new Experimental 'fiddich a little better for it was zestier. I'm sure this 18 would reach a (relatively) higher league when bottled at 43% vol. or even a little higher.
SGP:341 - 80 points. |
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| The malt wars (print ad, 1986) |
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September 28, 2022 |
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Little duos, today two special Tormore
Elixir Distillers' Tormore Distillery! We just can't wait… But in the meantime…
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Tormore 27 yo 1995/2022 (48.3%, WhiskySponge, for LMDW, Collection Antipode, refill hogshead, 136 bottles)
On the label, an anthropomorphic sponge lying on the ground while dreaming of flowers. Too much Tormore, probably, unless that would have been 'something else'. Colour: gold. Nose: flowers perhaps (mullein? Honeysuckle? Freesia? Orange blossom?), most probably honeys, and fruits for sure. Pink bananas, juicy sultanas, prickly pears, rambutans, plums, melons big time, papayas… I'm also finding a few droplets of pinot gris. Alsatian pinot gris, naturally. Mouth: feels stronger than 48.3, with bags of orchard fruits and touches of caramel and stout. I'm sure it would take water with ease and joy… With water: and it does. Moist marzipan (with kirschwasser, of course) plus melons ala Bruichladdich and peaches ala Ardmore. Wonderful 'western' fruitiness. Zwetschke. Finish: medium, fruity and doughy. Brioche full of candied fruits. Comments: bordering stardom, a perfect bridge between fruits and doughs. Who said 'so, panettone?'
SGP:641 - 89 points. |
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Tormore 29 yo 1993/2022 (54.5%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, first fill sherry butt, cask #5053, 554 bottles)
It's to be remembered that G&M are filling their own casks. Colour: full gold. Nose: much more sherry here, obviously, so more roasted nuts, walnuts, coffee, perhaps a little gunpowder too, struck matches, bitter oranges… With water: soy sauce, game, leather, burnt caramel, umami sauce (litres of that), soot… Mouth (neat): heavy flinty sherry, orange zests, salted liquorice, almost some tar, leather, some mustard sauce, slightly overly infused tea, dry Madeira, bits of tobacco… It has to be said that it's not easy to come after the very natural WhiskySponge with this kind of leafy and faintly s******y sherry. With water: at the frontiers. Finish: long and extremely umami-y, but with a sweeter aftertaste on candied grapefruits. Comments: some parts are brilliant, others are perhaps more difficult. A style that's slowly parting in most parts of the whisky world (just not in Mittelleuropa, ha!)
SGP:472 - 85 points. |
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September 27, 2022 |
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Little duos, today young clean Glen Elgin |
It's said that more and more indie Glen Elgins are now being bottled as 'Secret Speysides', but we'll have some disclosed ones today. What's sure is that the times of all undisclosed Speysides being Glenfarclas (and Cragganmore) are definitely over, so smarter blind tasters, beware! |
Sancerre (Cave des Vins de Sancerre, very good wines) |
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Glen Elgin 12 yo 2009/2021 (53.7%, Acla Selection, Wow Tasty!, hogshead, cask #81754)
Pure Warholian design from Far-eastern Switzerland, on the Austrian border! Colour: white wine. Nose: this is where you do notice the clear connection between Glen Elgin and White Horse, especially older bottles of White Horse. Indeed this is austere, extremely mineral (old granite, sand) and full of concrete, soot and coal dust, with only wee bits of green pear at the fruit section. Another one that's pretty 'Sancerre-y'. With water: gets fruitier, more on gummi bears and marshmallows, barley sugar, candy floss… Mouth (neat): very green and grassy, full of fruit peel, green plums and pears, and the most acidic jelly babies. Crunching leaves and grass, lying in a meadow, admiring the sky. With water: once more it's becoming sweeter, rounder, with a lovely sweet barleyness that makes you think of… Mother Nature. Finish: medium, clean, malty, with barley and banana foam. Grass is back in the aftertaste. Comments: tasty indeed, Andy.
SGP:561 - 85 points. |
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Glen Elgin 13 yo 2008/2021 (57%, HNWS Taiwan, hogshead, cask #807935, 260 bottles) 
Colour: white wine. Nose: same spirit, obviously, only with a little more oak impact, bananas, tiny touch of coconut and papaya, other than that this grassy, green and mineral development that's working so well. Glen Elgin is a wonderfully textured natural malt whisky. Forgot to mention a little parsley. With water: exactly a Sancerre this time again, but this one's met some oak in its early life, while the other one was all 'stainless'. Fresh butter, touch of coconut, crushed banana… Mouth (neat): rather powerful, spicier than the Acla (and that's the wood, obviously), with some pepper and nutmeg, then a wee sourness (cider apples). Just a little tough when undiluted. With water: it's kept this peppery sourness, the cider apples, the green bananas… Finish: rather long, with more pepper, otherwise ripe apples and a touch of pineapple. Comments: absolutely excellent, it's just that I enjoyed the 2009's extreme clean side even more. A little more.
SGP: 561- 84 points. |
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September 26, 2022 |
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Little duos, today Glendronach 1993 ex-puncheon, PX vs oloroso
They are using really a lot of sweet PX at Glendronach, they could well actually support the whole PX business. You're right, almost, now what's sure is that we've stumbled upon quite a few stunning 1993s. Even ex-PX!
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Glendronach 1993/2019 (51.1%, OB, The Whisky Exchange exclusive, PX puncheon, cask #6853, 772 bottles) 
Some chocolate and some prunes should be found… Colour: golden amber. Nose (neat): right, those Mozartian Austrian chocolates filled with damson prunes indeed, plus plum eau-de-vie. Those things kill – positively. They do have family-packs but the saying goes like 'once opened, emptied'. Or rather like 'you'll never find an opened pack that's not empty'. Anyway, this is brilliant, beyond those chocolaty prunes, as there's also some soups, umami, marrow broth, armagnac, Corinth currants, black pipe tobacco and whatnot. With water: oh, something medicinal! Old embrocations, massage balms… It's true that not too long ago, Glendronach used to share its destiny with Laphroaig, under Allied's banner. Mouth: ancient style. Earthy, tea-ish, salty(ish), more on tobacco than on chocolate. I suppose if you cellar this for twenty years, you'll come up with some 'Samaroli'. See what I mean? With water: grand. Gets dry, superbly sour(ish), with the wonderful trio, chocolate, coffee and tobacco. Finish: long. And there, once more, something medicinal. Did they treat an ex-Laphroaig cask with PX, and then filled it with Glendronach? We won't complain! Comments: very splendid. Glendronach are kings of PX. Oh and I should have tried this baby earlier, rather than keep it in a stupid 'TBT' box. That's 'to be tasted'.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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Glendronach 28 yo 1993/2022 (53.2%, OB, for La Maison du Whisky, Oloroso puncheon, cask #7099, 630 bottles)
This one's brand new and this time, I am not late. Colour: golden amber. Nose: oloroso sweeter and rounder than PX, is that even possible? Unless the cask was shier and the distillate, which is superb at Glendronach as we all know, could have its say. This will be another 91/100, I can already tell you. Sultanas, menthol, guavas, coconut balls (but no vulgar coconut here), then sorrel soup, cress soup, chocolate, Cuban cigars… Well, I have to say this one too has the look of a winner. And ripe bananas. With water: banana cake! Plus old high-brow Sauternes, posh muscats, and a lot of apricot jam. Mouth (neat): yeah well, this time it is drier indeed, on coffee and bitter chocolate, plus black tea and tobacco. Umami-y things in the background, especially hoisin sauce. And now, the fruits I suppose… With water: I'm reminded of some pipe tobacco I used to smoke when I was twenty (so very recently), which was flavoured with cherries. Finish: long, with this admirable sour, quasi-bitter signature that prevents the whole experience from getting too… decadent? Comments: another stunning one, unless you don't like old-skool sherry monsters. Nothing medicinal in this one, having said that.
SGP:661 - 91 points. |
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September 24, 2022 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland |
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| Two celebratory old Dalwhinnie |
| I've always wanted to do this wee session as these are two of what amounts to a midgie's sporran-full of cask strength, 1960s distilled examples of Dalwhinnie that are known to exist in bottled form. And I recall both being really superb when tasted on various separate occasions. Plus, I'm finally going back to Whisky Live Paris this weekend, after many years not being able to make it, so I'm pretty excited for that and these gently historic wee Dalwhinnies seem like a fitting way to celebrate. |
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Dalwhinnie 36 yo 1966/2002 (47.2%, OB 'Special Releases', 1500 bottles) 
One of many highly impressive early releases in this series, although I always felt it got a little forgotten about over the years. Now, Mr SV recorded notes for this one all the way back in 2005 and was impressed but maybe not 'aggressively' so with WF88. Colour: pale bronze. Nose: typically old and old school at the same time. Rather mentholated, polished and medicinal with animal fats, tiger balm, sooty and coppery notes and wee impressions of aged mead, camphor, marzipan and ginger. There's also dried herbs and ointments with a few various glazed and crystallised fruits. I also find some interestingly fat beery and malt extract notes. Mouth: excellent arrival, powerful even at this ABV, loads of medicinal waxes, boot polish, soot, camphor, oils, a glimmer of peat smoke and a few rather extracted exotic fruit teas, mineral oils and natural tar resin. Becoming more and more reminiscent of some much older Scotch whiskies in the way it makes you think of long-aged herbal liqueurs and curious old medicines. Finish: good length, rather warming, gently peppery, some ginger once again, more beers, dark grains, medicines and camphor. Comments: 1960s Dalwhinnie seems to have been involved considerably more with peat than today's make. There's many aspects about this that make you think of properly historic 'antique' profiles of Scotch Whisky. 90 big fat points in my wee book, but I would say what distinguishes this from many modern bottlings that also easily hit that mark, is that this would be a 'soulful' 90, rather than a 'technical' 90 - I'm sure you see what I mean.
SGP: 563 - 90 points. |
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Dalwhinnie 37 yo 1965/2003 (58.1%, Scotch Malt Whisky Society 102.14 'An off-road oldie')
Once again, Serge beat me to this one with WF90 back in 2018. I was always a fan of this bottling as, as far as I'm aware, it's a unique single cask with no sibling stocks to be found at any other bottler; a bonnie wee slice of Scottish distilling history. Colour: gold. Nose: many proximate qualities to the 1966, only I would say this is immediately sharper and more powerfully on medical embrocations, wintergreen, herbal wines, bandages, vapour rubs and even touches of iodine and citronella wax. A highly distinctive and unusual profile, even for the 1960s I would say. With water: superbly fat, oily, waxy and even farmy now. These peaty and medicinal aspects and subdivided into something greasier, earthier and more old school waxy/mechanical. Also some more refined notes of smoked olive oil and good old classic hessian. Really charming! Mouth: very herbal, oily, medicinal and camphory. I also find quite a lot of pepper, hints of anchovy paste, sandalwood and some wonderfully crisp and elegant old school peat smoke. It's also rather salty and with slight meaty notes like a top quality slice of Serrano. With water: lots of herbs, fir wood resins, natural tar extracts, medical embrocations, wee notes of smoked tea, iodine and many more assertive feelings of camphor, putty, hessian and medical balms. Finish: long, resinous, herbal, medicinal and with sweet tar and gentle peat smoke. Comments: I have to say, I find this outstanding. A brilliant whisky that's both soulful and technically great, but also a true example of a properly unique single cask. I have to say, this wee session also reveals the difference between Serge and I. He is a far more disciplined taster, whereas I am an over-emotional and giddy Scotsman who gets too excited about these sorts of whiskies. Hence…
SGP: 364 - 92 points. |
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Hope to see many of you at the show this weekend. Slante! |
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September 23, 2022 |
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Little duos, today Ardbeg OB vs IB
(vs Côte-Rôtie)
You cannot deny that Ardbeg and Macallan have shaped the malt whisky scene, in the late 1990s – early 2000s. Things have changed rather a lot since back then, but both Distilleries (ach, brands) will always remain in the hearts of every 'older' malt enthusiasts, together with a few other names. Good, I'm afraid I'll make a brick cry if I go on… Better try two newer 'begs!
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Guigal's famous La-la-La ->
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Ardbeg 2011/2020 (57.6%, OB, for Germany, 1st fill 'Cote Rotie', cask #2303, 302 bottles) 
WAIT. First, it's Côte-Rôtie, not Cote Rotie. I know it's tricky to handle foreign letterings on a 1995 Macintosh, but come on. And second, Côte-Rôtie is one of the most distinctive and aromatic red wines, while red wine and peat, well that's like that famous Hawaiian pizza we keep mentioning. Or there, bananas al chorizo. But I am joking, you never know, and after all, some traditional Côte-Rôtie do harbour a few percent white wine. So like 95% syrah, 5% viognier. Let us proceed (with caution)… Colour: full gold. Nose: what is this? Rye, cedarwood, rose petals and hibiscus, ginger, pomegranates, peonies, blackcurrant buds (big time), tomato leaves, litchee syrup, mustard, rosewater, Lebanese bread… What's sure is that we're extremely far from the south shore of Islay, but there is some kind of fun to this, they should just find another name for this kind of winesky. With water: smoked ham and pineapple. There, Hawaiian pizza. Mouth (neat): so bizarre! You would believe it was made by a start-up distillery, somewhere in the Rhône Valley or there, in Schwarzwald. Sour, dissonant, sweet and spicy, with the smoke generating notes of plastic or, well, burnt pomegranates, burnt juniper wood… Phew! With water: it's better, but it is not Ardbeg. At least water brought a little coherence; oh and black olives. Finish: long, not obligatorily a good thing. Comments: too much own product, probably. No indie bottlers would have dared making, let alone bottling this very bizarre mixture. Almost impossible to score, but since we've come this far…
SGP:755 - 70 points. |
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Ardbeg 20 yo 2001/2022 (44.5%, The First Editions, for HNWS Taiwan, refill barrel, cask #HL18657, 146 bottles)
Always an utter joy to read 'refill barrel' on a label, especially after 'Cote Rotie' (smirk). Thank you, Hunter Laing and HNWS. Colour: white wine. Nose: we're back in the late 1990s and we're having some of those official 10 yo twist cap in our glass. Coltrane on the stereo, and from the glass, these pure, amazingly tarry, sooty and coastal notes that were nowhere else to be experienced. Well, all that is back in this one, with a stunning simplicity and purity, and this very peculiar feeling of oneness. Not many malts are 'one' (especially not when finished or aged in Côte-Rôtie, he he). Ardbeg, what a spirit! Mouth: Ardbeg. A.r.d.b.e.g. ARDBEG. A-r-d-b-e-g (that'll do, S.) Tar, soot, seawater, lime juice and a drop of camphor oil. And basta. Finish: long, still pure, with an ashy signature. Drop of riesling and ideas of bandages and tincture of iodine. Comments: Ardbeg, together with only a handful of other names and provided no silly wood and/or wine's been in use, is a malt that often imposes silence on the drinker. Shh…
SGP:456 - 93 points. |
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September 22, 2022 |
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Duos: a little Bowmore and good
We've already had a brilliant Bowmore session last month, but we were having a few more, quite possibly none with any heavy wine-treatment, so pretty much al natural. No, sherry isn't wine, it's something else, no? After all, neither should you ever be allowed to add cheese to pasta alle vongole! |
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Bowmore 17 yo 2003/2022 (53%, WhiskySponge, refill sherry butt, 679 bottles)
This was the Sponge's 50th bottling, kudos Mr Sponge! Lovely poetic label here, with someone shovelling stars (seemingly) as if it was barley. Colour: gold. Nose: starts with loads of pickled seaweed, or perhaps wakame in brine, before it would rather move towards wee seashells (our friends winkles and whelks – never a word higher than the others) plus almonds, putty and fresh paint. An old boat that's just been repainted. With water: fresh putty and marzipan all the way, seaweed and damp newspapers in the background. Mouth (neat): wonderfully salty, in line with those old Bowmores that were sometimes rolled in the Loch to the puffers. Not sure that was true, but the story is charming. High-concentration margarita, lemon zests, pepper and chillies, ginger, miso and smoked almonds. Really, tastes like someone would have poured a litre of seawater (well, lochwater) into this butt. By the way, in the back, some leaves and leather plus green walnuts, all from the sherry I suppose. With water: a few touches of tropical fruits appearing, which is very Bowmore as well. Finish: long, on salted cold lapsang souchong. Wonderful lemony brine and pure smoke in the aftertaste, classic Bowmore. Comments: just a wee bit leathery/peppery on the palate, that must be the butt, but truly splendid.
SGP:465 - 90 points. |
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Bowmore 20 yo 2001/2022 (54.8%, LMDW, Artist #20, cask #102)
I don't think this baby is out yet but it will be soon, probably during or immediately after Whisky Live Paris, which will take place this weekend. Colour: gold. Nose: very very very, and I mean very close, just a tad more on mangos and umami. Tangerines, putty, engine oil… With water: starts to diverge, with a purer (yet) Bowmoreness, with ashes, ink, oats, mangos, soot, seawater, oysters, pink grapefruits, porridge, suet, cigar ashes (a whole ashtray, really) and a whole wheelbarrow of kelp. Mouth (neat): ultra-tight, bladey, with loads of green pepper and concentrated lime juice. Then a blend of seawater with a few drops of diesel oil (not much, given the costs of Diesel oil these days). With water: rather sublime, as expected. A little more pepper this time again, zests and fruit skins, tar, salt… Finish: long, greener and a notch bitterer, loses one point here. Dura Lex, sed Lex. Comments: seriously, it is glorious, but we all know that these vintages are terrific, provided some well-mannered casks will have been used, and not any of those pumped-up bespoke 'wine' casks that are to Bowmore what the LM002 was to Lamborghini.
SGP:566 - 90 points. |
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September 21, 2022 |
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Because after all, winter is near… These will be the first Glenfarclas we'll try after the extremely talented, friendly and abnormally engaging George Grant has left the company, earlier this year. We deeply hope he'll be back, because, well, because whisky is about people way before anything else! |
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| The author with George Grant in front of the Maniac Mobile, 2005 |
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Glenfarclas 10 yo 2011/2021 'Empress of Australia' (53.9%, TWCC, PX sherry, 324 bottles)
I'm not sure the label actually says 'Glenfarclas', but let's remember that the stunning board/tasting room at the Distillery has its walls adorned with old wood panels that had been dismounted from the ocean liner named 'Empress of Australia' indeed. Colour: deep gold. Nose: sometimes PX works. Yes, Serge speaking. Indeed this is full of sultanas and dried figs, chestnut purée, rum baba, milk chocolate, hazelnut liqueur, not to forget our beloved amlou (1/3 argan oil, 1/3 crushed almonds, 1/3 Atlas honey). Some rancio too. Perfect nose this far, no deviant leafiness or rubber whatsoever. With water: awesome, sweet and rounded but not dull at all, a little close to good cognac, or perhaps that bottled sin (when it's good) called pineau des Charentes. Mouth (neat): absolutely excellent, round, luscious, all on raisins, rum and Sauternes at first, then with some healthy spiced honeys. Heather honey for sure, once more. With water: fruitcake etcetera. Angelica. Finish: medium, clean and sweet, and full of raisins and other dried fruits. The usual figs, for example. Pepper and clove in the aftertaste. Comments: what a lovely young drop! I've heard some good bodegas were making some bone-dry macerated PX these days, I need to try that!
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
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Glenfarclas 10 yo 2011/2021 (59.8%, OB, Family Casks, for LMDW 65th Anniversary, sherry hogshead, cask #1173, 304 bottles)
I'm sorry, but does the name 'Family Cask' remain valid if George has left? Anyway, if La Maison have selected such a young drop to celebrate their 65th anniversary, there must be a reason, let's try to find it. Colour: deep red amber. Nose: sometimes, rich young sherry monsters may start like bourbon, in this case with rather a lot of varnish and acetone, over a nicely caramelised pecan pie straight from the oven. And then it's cake after cake, kougelhopf, tarte tatin, panettone… Well we're almost over the moon about this young beauty that, what's more, feels unexpectedly 'craft'. With water: seriously, I doubt you could do much better in Speyside, at this young age. Probably buries most neighbours… Mouth (neat): perfect, if a little brutal and a little too much on cherries and strawberries because of the very high strength. And on Texas-style sweet and smoked barbecue sauce. There, let's add water… With water: toffee, chocolate, marmalade, raisins and coffee, the holy pentangle of sherried Speyside whisky. We'll now sip this away while listening to Jacqui Mcshee's Pentangle, if you don't mind… Finish: long and more on raisins, fig arrack, dried jujubes and litchees… The aftertaste is very chocolatey again, with even a little smoke. Comments: as good as it gets at ten years old.
SGP:652 - 89 points. |
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September 20, 2022 |
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Birthday session,
old Linkwood vs. very old Linkwood |
There's quite some young to middle-aged Linkwood around, many really good, but old ones are becoming rare, even if Diageo had a superb 1981 'Prima & Ultima' last year. What's sure is that the news of another old wonder from Gordon & MacPhail's is always of extreme interest. |
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| Bugatti Type 35 1925 (Artcurial) |
By the way, we hope they'll have a super-rare old Laphroaig for the coronation of king Charles III next year, even if we haven't seen any Laphroaig from G&M's since… the mid 1980s! Or we haven't been paying attention! Oh and this is my birthday, I'm turning 42 right today (and I can hear you). . |
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Linkwood 1988/2021 (47.5%, The Whisky Jury, refill hogshead, cask #2334, 176 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: another one that came from a superbly shy old refill cask, apparently, with as much 'modern technology' as there was in a 1927 Bugatti. I'm getting whiffs of rose petals, which I'll always try to find in Linkwood since Michael Jackson once wrote that roses were amongst Linkwood's main markers. I have to confess I've not always been successful in my quest, but cheers Michael-in-the-sky! Wonderful wet limestone, sourdough, green gooseberries, damp plaster, granny smith, paraffin and crushed grapes. Traces of elderflowers and vernal grass, wild thyme, hay... That part is absolutely wonderful and can only stem from a perfect old refill cask (give me a break with your 'knackered old wood' thing). Mouth: and voilà, what was in the nose is in the palate too, these tart gooseberries and granny smith apples, this herbal side, more paraffin, something clearly sour as if it was a proper caipirinha (with almost no syrup at all), coriander, even wee gherkins, cardamom… It would tend to become a little extra-sour and bitter, having said that, but nothing excessive. Finish: wonderfully acidic and bitter, rather on peel and the tightest cider apples. A wee green tannicity in the aftertaste. Comments: in the rather tough category of the quasi-90s.
SGP:461 - 89 points. |
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Linkwood 50 yo 1971/2021 (42.4%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection for The Single Malt Shop, refill American oak hogshead, cask #98011203, 166 bottles)
50 years is very old but 1971 is pretty recent, no? Time really gets elastic these days… Colour: brown amber. Nose: too fast. Why should even the inattentive taster understand within a fraction of a second that the whisky is totally superlative? All that because of old crème de menthe, old myrtle liqueur, tiger balm and small figs, one of the most perfect equations? Add old pinewood (a chalet in the Alps – you may drop the fondue) and some kind of sweeter moussaka. Cooked eggplants for sure. In truth it is a little different from most of G&M's other 'old wonders', perhaps because of a rather lower natural strength than usual? Oh and looks like I forgot to mention thin mints. Mouth: pine (wood, needles) is not always great news when it's there right in the arrival, but in this case it is, because you also have the impression that someone came at night and poured one or two demi-johns of mid-1800s cognac into this hogshead, while everyone including the guard cat was at sleep. Which generated a feeling of old rancio, peach jam, also old Bénédictine and Yellow Chartreuse. I was about to also mention old moutai. Background: many tiny herbal and bouillony notes, miso, soy sauce, leek, mushrooms, ransom… Finish: medium, rather rounder (raisins, figs, dates), then on tiny savoury matters and substances. A pinhead of hoisin sauce and some chocolate sauce. Comments: absolutely splendid, with a wonderful 'reductive' side, marrow, porcini, 'solera-type' sauce base…
SGP:561 - 92 points. |
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September 18, 2022 |
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Rums for chums and maple for mates
Assorted rums from any origins.
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Pusser's Rum (40%, OB, Guyana, +/-2021)
British Navy rum, or the 'original admiralty rum'. With a salute to the Queen and to all our friends over there, who've granted us with yet a stunning Black Adder episode since their majesty's passed away. We're not familiar with Pusser's, we only remember a 15 that used to be poor at best. Colour: amber. Nose: starts very well, briney and bouillony, rather acetic as well, with some soy sauce, leeks, rotting plums, whiffs of plastic, coffee and even garlic… Pleasantly bacterial so far, shall we say. Mouth: well, this is way superior to that older 15, not sure about what happened that day. Good tar, brine, molasses, pipe tobacco, marrow soup, hoisin and all that. Even the low strength doesn't feel low. Finish: long, more of coffee and molasses. Comments: I've seen some good people calling this one 'Port Mourant Blue Label'. That would make sense.
SGP:662 - 83 points. |
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Polaris 'Constellation' (48%, OB, Canary Islands, +/-2021) 
This is from a 30 years old solera, you understand, and bottled by 'La Palma Distillers'. At least they haven't added a large '30' to the label. Other rums from the Canaries that we could try have always been… well, I can't quite remember them… Very sweet for sure! Colour: full gold. Nose: sweet coffee, Frappuccino, Tia Maria, Coca-Cola, Jägermeister and molasses. All right then… Mouth: sweet and resinous. Have I mentioned Jägermeister, already? And burnt caramel? And old bitter walnuts? I've tried it with water and that won't help. Finish: medium, saltier. A Spaniard trying to mimic the Guyanians. Comments: not too bad, at all. Some action in there, even if many will find it too molassy. Well, I wouldn't sip it but it's still in the 'good surprise' category.
SGP:461 - 78 points. |
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Panama Rum 22 yo 2000/2022 'PMD' (46.3%, The Whiskyfind for Whisky Picnic Bar Taiwan, bourbon barrel, cask #13, 241 bottles)
Most certainly distilled at Don José's (Abuelo) and then aged for 8 years in Panama, then 14 years in the U.K. Colour: gold. Nose: typical light, ex-cane syrup columny rum, certainly pleasant in its lightness, with notes of orange cake and oriental pastries, angel hair, makrouts and all that. Some light honey, some light rosewater and some light orange blossom. Keyword: light. Mouth: certainly one of the better ones, possibly thanks to a good barrel which has imparted good vanilla, on top of good oranges and certainly some sugarcane honey. Touch of chocolate and liquorice in the background, which would add texture and structure. Finish: unexpectedly long, with some bitter chartreuse-like herbs adding yet another dimension. Honey in the aftertaste. Comments: certainly not an empty 'ron' here.
SGP:550 - 85 points. |
Off to deeper-rum countries… |
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Penny Blue 2011/2021 (48%, The Navigator, Navigate World Whisky, Mauritius, sherry, cask #227, 138 bottles)
Other Penny Blues have been a little sweet, but this single cask may be different. Colour: deep amber. Nose: certainly rather El-Dorado-y, feeling caramelly and molassy, going on with crystallised fruits and jams, plums, prunes, marzipan-filled dates and pipe tobacco. It does not feel too 'sweet'. Whiffs of cedarwood, so pencil shavings too. Mouth: hurray, it's not a total sugar-bomb, even if it is very sweet and molassy indeed. Bags of fruit jelly (plums, blackcurrant, apricot) and deep-sweetened coffee, plus dried figs and toffee. Finish: medium, syrupy, yet kind of straight. Comments: a (slightly) drier Mauritian, that's good, as many are not exactly recommended by dentists ;-). Very good sweet drop from the Indian ocean.
SGP:640 - 82 points. |
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Special Edition 4 (55.2%, Sample Eleven, blended rum, maple syrup cask finish, 320 bottles, +/-2021)
Maple syrup casks? Do they actually exist? This set-up pretty much sounds like Ozzy Osbourne willing to sing Pergolesi's Stabat Matter, if you ask me. So, some fun to be had, I imagine… Colour: straw. Nose: right, the rum was nice and the maple syrup pretty absent. No false notes that I can detect this far, Ozzy, rather a sweet acidity that would rather hint at late-harvest riesling. With water: what is this trick? Very nice herbal and sweet nose, with some minerality that comes unexpected. White wine tightness. Mouth (neat): once again, I don't find the maple syrup but I do find the very good rum. A family-pack of liquorice allsorts, plus some limoncello and citron liqueur. Between us, did this lovely acidity stem from the maple syrup cask? With water: becomes really excellent, with some tar, liquorice, salt, tobacco… Finish: rather long, unexpectedly dry and pretty caney. Comments: I believe the Rum Mercenary, who's behind this bottling, should give his recipe for free and for the common good. So maple syrup casks you say?...
SGP:652 - 88 points. |
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Port Mourant at Uitvlugt 26 yo 1995/2021 'PM' (52.6%, Nobilis Rum, Guyana, No13, 169 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: tinned anchovies and sardines, plus camphor, menthol, glue, olives and liquorice. Classic and classy. With water: linoleum, diesel oil, an old petrol station in Arkansas, and Provençale tapenade. Proper zeitgeist. Mouth (neat): massive, varnishy, acetone-y, glue-y, and wonderful. This is high-speed tasting. With water: tremendous batches, this one being just a tad rural. Right, rustic. Or a little robust. Plastics, olives, paraffin and natural rubber. Finish: long and dry, and rather tarry. Not a tenth of an ounce of sweetness here. All the liquorice of the Creation in the aftertaste. Comments: certainly not the easiest Port Mourant at Uitvlugt ever, but this austere, almost Jansenist side of it appeals to us. Coz we're very austere people, you know (writing this while listening to Kool & The Gang, no shame indeed).
SGP:363 - 89 points. |
Quickly, a last last one, for the road… |
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Caroni 19 yo 1999/2019 (61.2%, Michiel Wigman, Precious Moments, Trinidad, 69 bottles)
Yeah well… Colour: deep gold. Nose: rough, explosive, full of plastics, of bits of tyres, of spent engine oils, of bitter walnuts, even of Madeira wine, dry Marsala, artichokes, black olives… In truth there is a curious feeling here, let's see how it unfolds in our wee tulip glass… With water: OMG. Mustard and plastics, new LP, pinecones, new leatherette, model glue, gluey model (I'm joking, drop that)… Mouth (neat): holy featherless crow! It is an utter monster indeed, shock-full of rubbers and glues. Do not even consider drinking even a single drop of this mammoth of a rum without any waters (I just did and to tell you the truth, I am not feeling too well… Honestly!) With water: there, easier rubbers and tars, but it remains extremely gluey, dry to the bone, and as some would say, 'chemical'. Perhaps for masochists? Finish: long, salty and very tough. Probably one of the heaviest heavy Caronis, never meant to be drunk unblended. Salted rubber in the aftertaste. A tiny touch of butterscotch in the post-aftertaste – that's an ocean of civilisation in this context. Comments: almost a prototype of the heaviest rums they ever made in the Caribbean, for adventurous chemists only; or unapologetic masochists. I might be part of them but frankly, it's tough.
SGP:374 - 85 points. |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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September 16, 2022 |
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More Nordic whiskies
A few days ago someone well-placed told me I should watch BB&R's new 'Thy'. I'm sorry to say that I wasn't even in the know of the existence of 'Thy', and that consequently, I felt shame. You learn every day…
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Thy 2019/2022 (57.6%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Denmark, Nordic Casks #2, quarter cask, cask #258, 235 bottles)
The young Thy Distillery is located in the north of Denmark, not far from the sea. Let's see if Thy is shy (remember we've won the Lousiest Joker Award at the World Whisky Awards). Colour: white wine. Nose: rather starts with some metal polish and notes of artisanal cachaça, and would go on with some pastis and aquavit (not saying aquavit because we're in Demark here, I promise). Whiffs of wild carrots and genepy too, perhaps even crushed sugar beets… I find this rather unusual, but really lovely. With water: perhaps parsnips too, celeriac, and certainly some kind of pinewood smoke. Mouth (neat): very potent, really smoky this time, but also with even more aniseed, caraway, fennel, liquorice… Did anyone ever try to make some smoked pastis? (yeah I know pastis may smoke YOU, but that's another story). With water: ah lovely indeed, very fresh and even more on smoked herbs and root vegetables of all kinds. Finish: rather long, smoky (not peaty), with some eggplants and some rye in the aftertaste. Comments: awesome young drop, very different and yet not exactly deviant. Love it to find the differences in the distillate itself, and not in the casks that have been in use.
SGP:474 - 86 points. |
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Stauning 2017/2022 (58.9%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Denmark, Nordic Casks #2, barrel + moscatel hogshead, cask #6493, 254 bottles)
Moscatel! Will this be stuffy and cloying? Or not? On the other hand, this is Stauning. Colour: deep gold. Nose: yeah, our beloved panettones and kougelhopfs, plus acacia honey, Sauternes and Canadian ice-wine. With water: same, with emphasis on the panettone and kougelhopf. Touch of fresh ginger, rye bread. Mouth: boy! Juniper and pineau des Charentes, plus clove liqueur. Very strong, may tear you apart if you're not careful (given that the nose was charmingly sweet). With water: some wood spices coming through, cinnamon, nutmeg, rye… Finish: rather long. The Moscatel really feels, while the aftertaste is very spicy. Comments: heavy, not my favourite style, as a few friends very well know, but within this style, it's rather a top gun. More AC/DC than Brahms if you ask me.
SGP:662 - 84 points. |
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Teerenpeli 2013/2022 (59.9%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Finland, Nordic Casks #2, oloroso hogshead, cask #13B, 217 bottles)
I know the whiskies are pretty young, but did you notice the strengths? I had thought ethanol would evaporate faster than water in northern climates… Or did they mature these in Kentucky? Or is this one of the effects of climate change? Colour: deep gold. Nose: and voilà, cakes and butterscotch plus touches of varnish, you cannot be against this. Simple, straightforward, extremely pleasant. With water: warms your nose, sends raisins and young rancio to your brain. Extremely comforting. Mouth (neat): butterscotch and millionaire shortbread, dipped into kirschwasser and coffee liqueur. Sounds horrible (my fault) but it is actually brilliant. With water: lovely sherry cask. Walnut cake, peanut nougat, halva, satay sauce… Well this is almost pornographic. Finish: long, chocolaty. Reminds me of a bar that we used to have when I was a kid, in the 1980s (yeah right), which consisted in some kind of peanut brittle covered with caramel and chocolate. Forgot the name, better like this. Comments: textbook sherry maturing, and calls for more Teerenpeli…
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
… and some heavier Teerenpeli yet… |
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Teerenpeli 3 yo 2014/2017 'Tervaisen Savuinen Grillikastike' (61.7%, OB, Finland, peated oloroso, 84 bottles)
Whatever it says on the bottle, I agree with (too easy, S.) Colour: amber. Nose: some similarities and some differences. What's similar is all this shortbready and butterscotchy arrival (they'll catch you one day, S.) while what's different is this massive amount of herbal and resinous smoke, as if someone had burnt a bag of pine needles plus a pair of old wellies, and then tossed a bottle of Maggi onto the fire. With water: awesome chocolatery development, plus indeed a good glass of good oloroso. Mouth (neat): extremely rich and piney and totally huge. Another Tyson of a malt, let's not insist… With water: some sweetness coming out, like raisins macerated in fir bud liqueur and then smoked with pinewood and salted with, well, salt. Finish: extremely long, saltier yet, with the rubbery side up and the sweetness down. More Maggi. Comments: awesome fighter, but fighter. Something psychedelic too, perhaps… Wait, let's find an appropriate record to listen to while sipping this… Perhaps Gong's 'Camembert Electrique'? Or, hey, Aphrodite's Child's '666'? Love, love love love…
SGP:576 - 86 points. |
Good, before this session gets too apocalyptic, let's have a last Nordic… |
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Mackmyra 2013/2022 (53.5%, Swell de Spirits, Sweden, Wonders #9, American/Virgin oak, cask #17280, 390 bottles)
Colour: deep gold. Nose: back to civilisation, back to Chopin, Ravel and The Rolling Stones. Banana bread, fresh praline, dried figs and pears, maple syrup, a bit of white chocolate, vanilla pods, rum baba, nougat… It really is a gentle Mackmyra, matured in no silly wood (seemingly, this far). With water: roots and green bananas. That's the oak. Manioc. Mouth (neat): a tad harsher, more on ginger and cinnamon (which I always found pretty 'Mackmyra'), with some rather green tannins, white pepper, oak spices… Was is virgin US oak or virgin European oak? With water: a wee feeling of rye, ginger cookies, candied ginger… Finish: drier and rather drying. Comments: pretty good, but in my book, the oak really feels here. A bottling that may be a little 'un-Swell', if I may. The nose was lovely though, and that's why we won't go below…
SGP:461 - 80 points. |
All right, let's travel back to Finland and then call this a tasting session… |
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Teerenpeli 8 yo (61.7%, OB for Kirsch Import, Finland, PX, cask #25112013B, 342 bottles, 2022)
May we have the name of the gentleman or the lady who's responsible with numbering-up the casks? Colour: gold. Nose: butterscotch and just a little Williams pear. Rather in the style of BB&R's Teerenpeli, so no complains here. With water: cake and a little wet earth. The garden after a shower. Also some good cigarette tobacco, let's say Senior Service. Mouth (neat): classic nutty, coffeeish and raisiny sherry, not too cloying this time, as if this PX was actually good oloroso. With water: a little rubber popping out, otherwise leaves, leather, and lees. I like it better without water, but then again, sixty one and seven tenths, mind you. Finish: rather long, this time with some coffee. Comments: perfectly all right, possibly the best you could do with PX.
SGP:461 - 85 points. |
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Best spirits Serge tried those weeks, 90+ points only
Ardbeg 20 yo 2001/2022 (44.5%, The First Editions, for HNWS Taiwan, refill barrel, cask #HL18657, 146 bottles)
Bowmore 20 yo 2001/2022 (54.8%, LMDW, Artist #20, cask #102)
Bowmore 17 yo 2003/2022 (53%, WhiskySponge, refill sherry butt, 679 bottles)
Glendronach 28 yo 1993/2022 (53.2%, OB, for La Maison du Whisky, Oloroso puncheon, cask #7099, 630 bottles)
Glendronach 1993/2019 (51.1%, OB, The Whisky Exchange exclusive, PX puncheon, cask #6853, 772 bottles)
Linkwood 50 yo 1971/2021 (42.4%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection for The Single Malt Shop, refill American oak hogshead, cask #98011203, 166 bottles)
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