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Hi, you're in the Archives, July 2005 - Part 1 |
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Bruichladdich
15 yo 1986/2001 ‘Country Life’
(46%, OB, cask #356)
Colour: pure gold. Nose: big sherry
and some sulphur (a nice one) with
some dried flowers and fruits. Very
fresh and, clearly superb. Notes of
pink grapefruit, stone, cedar wood…
Rather complex! Mouth: what a great
balance. . Dried fruits, Sauternes.
A bit dry but still enjoyable. Banana
flambéed, burnt cake…
Some soft tannins, Havana cigar, leather…
An excellent one. 88 points. |
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MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: sure she hasn't got Etta
James' voice but Spanish singer Juana
Molina manages to create
her very own, appeased world, full
of nice melodies and peaceful, yet
entrancing rythms. And her band is
very good. Have a go at Tres
cosas.mp3 and then buy her CDs
if you like her music. |
TASTING
- OLD AND NEW GLENCADAMS
Glencadam
15 yo (40%, OB, 2005)
Colour: orange amber. Nose: round
and powerful, not unlike some old
fortified wine. Very toffeeish and
caramelly, with some rum and raisins.
Some spicy notes too (mulled wine).
Hints of oak. Mouth: rather hot,
on rum again, sultanas, Xmas cake…
Very creamy, in fact, rounded but
quite nervous. Rather long and rummy
finish. A very good one, even if
it’s curiously 'hot' for a
whisky. 81 points. |
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Glencadam
14 yo 1964/1979 (45.7%, Cadenhead
dumpy)
Colour: gold. Nose: very herbal, with
lots of tea, getting quite spicy (clove
and white pepper). Otherwise quite
simple, getting a bit too grainy and
yeasty. Mouth: ah, this is so much
better! Flower jellies, dried pineapple
and guava, fresh tropical fruits…
How good! Astonishingly nervous after
more than 25 years in its bottle.
Develops on quince jelly… It’s
all excellent. Too bad the nose was
so-so, otherwise it would have deserved
much more than 86 points. |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: is Patti Smith back? Well,
she never really left but maybe anti-folk
passionaria Randi
Russo is sort of a new
Patti. That's what I thought when
I heard League
of the Brigands.mp3 for the first
time. Do you like her slightly detuned
voice? Then buy her music! And ah,
yes, Patti Smith... Do you remember
Redondo
beach.mp3? Great memories... |
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TASTING
- TWO 1969 BOWMORES |
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Bowmore
31 yo 1969/2001 (46.45%, Douglas Laing
OMC, 102 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: starts on some
very bold, very ripe melons and peaches.
A bit of peat (or is it my mind?)
Lots of vanilla crème. Some
great flowery notes too (mostly peony).
Lots of smoky notes appear after a
few minutes, smoked ham, sausages.
Very funny! Some notes of fern, rainy
forest… Great complexity. |
Mouth:
ah, now we’re talking! Bold,
complex, nervous… Lots of icing
sugar and grapefruit juice, but also
some sour woody notes. Some fudge,
cold coffee, pepper… Very nice
indeed, although it gets a bit too
dry and even a little prickly. Anyway,
a very nice one indeed! 91
points. |
Bowmore
1969/2005 (42.7%, Peerless, Japan
only)
Colour: sweet white wine. Nose: extraordinarily
flowery, herbal, vegetal. Spearmint
and fresh mint and then leather and
tobacco, vanilla crème, fudge.
Interesting notes of white Bourgogne
(butter and toasted bread). Some nice
orange flowers, rosewater, with the
usual passion fruits and citrus that
are soon to follow. Very, very complex
malt that keeps developing. A mix
of pink grapefruit and old roses…
really endless. Mouth: the attack
is a bit bitter and curiously perfumy,
and doesn’t quite match the
nose (but how could it?) Apple skins,
burnt cake, smoked tea, dried herbs,
Provence herbs… Medium long
finish, on lemon zest and grass. The
nose was stupendous, the mouth is
good if not pure pleasure: 89
points. |
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MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: New Yorker Aswel
does a very nice, peaceful song called
Everybody.mp3.
Please support Aswel and buy their
music. |
FOUR
CRAZY ADS AFTER GLENEAGLES - SPONSORED
BY THE G8 |
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Miller's
1990 (encore). No comment... |
Seagram's
V.O 1974. No comment... |
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Hennessy
1934. No comment... |
Chivas
Regal 1997. No comment... |
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MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: it's easy, it's nicely
made, it's refreshing as a morning
sunrise and not complicated at all:
new cat Kate
Earl, 22, from Chugiak,
Alaska, sings an obviously quiet Silence.mp3.
Please buy her album 'Fate is the
hunter' if you like her. |
TASTING
- Allt-A-Bhainne 12 yo 1992/2005 (58.9%,
Weiser, Germany, cask #96/24232, 306
bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: quite nicely
flowery but really spirity, making
this whisky smell like gin. Notes
of Schweppes, freshly cut apples and
mashed potatoes. Gets quite grassy,
with even some hints of bubble gum.
Not too interesting but not bad either.
Mouth: very sugary, starting on fruit
liquor and plums and getting quite
peppery. Develops on pear spirit…
Again, it’s not too bad –
certainly not the worst Allt-A-Bhainne
I ever had. 76 points. |
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MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: for all our friends in
London, ELO
does Mr
Blue Sky.mp3. Thanks Nick. |
Sorry,
no fun today. We all love London. |
TASTING
- TWO 'ITALIAN' BRORAS
Brora
1982/2002 (40%, G&M Private
for Collecting Whisky, cask #43,
120 bottles)
Nose: fresh and lively, quite waxy,
developing on caramel, praline and
butterscotch. Quite flowery (daisy,
dandelion). Nice notes of caramel
crème and apple juice. No
smoky aromas here, but it’s
still most enjoyable. Mouth: rather
light if not weak. Always these
40% vol! It’s much simpler
than on the nose, with some nice
notes of caramel, pollen and light
honey but not much else. It’s
a nice and flawless Brora but it
really lacks a little more oomph.
Anyway, ‘Had they bottled
it at 43%, or preferably at 46%,
it would etc. (you know that song,
don't you?)’ 83 points. |
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Brora
19 yo 1982/2001 (50%, Silver Seal,
light version, 280 bottles)
Different from the other cask by Silver
Seal (240 bottles, sherried). Colour:
white wine. Nose: rather light, grainy
and very flowery at first nosing,
with quite some farmy notes and a
bit of yeast coming through. Gets
quite waxy and nutty, with some notes
of fresh plums. Very clean and fresh,
with no peat at all. Mouth: lots of
body! It starts on a mix of fructose
and pepper, strawberries… There
is some peat coming through now, even
if it’s far from being bold.
It goes on with some nice fruits like
apples and green pear, while the rather
long finish is mostly on tea. A nice
one, no doubt. 85 points. |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: excellent Chilean singer
Mariana
Montalvo does a rather
traditional (but not too traditional)
Cantas
del Alma.mp3. Mariana was forced
into exile when Augusto Pinochet took
power, and she lives in France since
1974. Please buy her great music if
you like it! |
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TASTING
- TWO 1968 BOWMORES
Bowmore
34 yo 1968/2002 (40.2%, Hart Bros)
Colour: straw. Nose: full citrus.
Freshly squeezed oranges and passion
fruits ‘at full speed’.
Spectacular. Notes of ripe kiwi,
strawberries… Really fresh,
vibrant and extraordinarily fruity
at 34yo. So typically 1968 Bowmore…
Whiffs of wet straw, hay, sawdust.
Mouth: creamier than expected, but
also more bitter/green notes. Grapefruit
skin, lemon seeds, wood plank…
Too bad, had the mouth matched the
fantastic nose, it would have been
a winner. Gets a bit drying and
not too enjoyable. Green tannins.
Too much time in the wood, obviously.
But the nose, the nose! 85
points. |
Bowmore
35 yo 1968/2003 (42.05%, Peerless,
cask # 1424, 201 bottles)
Colour: light gold. Nose: much less
expressive than the Hart Bros., although
there are lots of citrusy notes and
passion fruit. Perhaps a bit more
lemony. Lemon pie, light caramel,
fudge. Some very nice eucalyptus and
camphor, and even some spearmint,
citronella, mango… Less oomph
than the Hart Bros but more complexity.
It just needs a little more time to
open up. Mouth: this one seems a little
more balanced, a little spicier. Lemon
zest again, grapefruit juice…
Quite some green tannins, nutmeg,
infused tealeaves, ‘oak juice’.
At the limit but inside the limits.
A very good oldie! 88 points. |
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MUSIC
– Oldie but
Goldie: 1974, Gil
Scott-Heron does a funky
and sweet In
the bottle.mp3 ('See that
black boy over there, runnin' scared,
his ol' man's in a bottle. He done
quit his 9 to 5 to drink full time,
so now he's livin' in the bottle...')
Pretty excellent, don't you think?
And I love these old bass lines! Please
buy Gil Scott-Heron's music! |
MUSIC
– Oldie but
Goldie: 1967, young Etta
James sings a wonderful
I'd
rather be calling.mp3, from her
album 'Tell Mama: The Complete Muscle
Shoals Sessions'. The 'undisputed
Earth Mother' indeed! Please buy here
music, if you didn't already. (via
moistworks) |
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TASTING
- TWO OLD HIGHLAND PARKS
Highland
Park 22 yo 1957/1979 (45.7% - 80
proof, Cadenhead for Samaroli, 360
bottles)
Colour: sweet white wine. Nose:
extremely delicate, on sea water,
wax polish, eucalyptus… Quite
medicinal, with some very nice notes
of dried flowers and herbal tea.
Not tired at all, that’s for
sure. Mouth: sweet, rounded, and
again, delicate. Lots of fruit syrup,
light tea, herbal tea again (quite
typical in these old bottles). Some
wee resinous notes… Really
beautiful even if perhaps slightly
thin. It’s all delicacy. 90
points. |
Highland
Park 21 yo 1959/1980 (43%, OB)
Colour: gold amber. Nose: oh yes,
again one of these stunning old ‘dumpy’
Highland Parks. Very resinous, with
lots of dried fruits (all sorts),
beehive… It then gets very heathery
(the marker is well here), with some
bold caramel and praline. Whiffs of
smoke and spices… Absolutely
stunning. Mouth: oh, it’s so
balanced and so satisfying! Superbly
coating, with lots of herbal tea again,
dried fruits (all sorts again), caramel
crème, and bunches of soft
spices. Just brilliant. No less than
95 points. |
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TOYS
FOR BOYS - Forget
about buying the latest BMW, here's
a brand new 'vehicle' made with pride
by the Tennessee
Whiskey Barrel Company right in
Franklin. Granted, perhaps it's not
aerodynamically perfect, but at a
speed of 2 kmph, who cares? Plus,
no need to say that it's environmentally
friendly... This one is a model for
fit persons, but perhaps they also
have 'butts for big buts',
as one might say. Yeah well... The
splendid bodywork comes from Jack
Daniels' (good at sketching, eh? Pininfarina
design to come later on) and I've
even been told you can also use it
as 'a portable planter or garden
tool caddy, or a beverage cooler...'
As the company says: 'Just Use
Your Imagination!!' |
TASTING
- TWO FABULOUS 1966 DAILUAINES BY
CADENHEAD |
Dailuaine-Glenlivet
31 yo 1966/1997 (56.8%, Cadenhead's
Authentic Collection)
Colour: pure gold. Nose: wow, this
is special! Some heavy notes of cooked
(fresh) fish, marzipan, seawater…
Extremely maritime! Yet, Dailuaine
isn’t too close to the sea,
is it? Some notes of hazelnut oil,
white truffles… an endless development.
It then gets very resinous, with some
whiffs of eucalyptus leaves…
Superb! Mouth: a very bold attack
on spearmint and various herbal teas,
as well as lots of dried fruits (including
tropical ones). Some notes of butter
caramel and fudge, and a finish that
does the ‘peacock’s tail’.
Fantastic, thanks for the tip, Marc.
No peat, no sherry and no finishing:
that’s whisky at its best. 94
points. |
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Dailuaine-Glenlivet
27 yo 1966/1994 (45.7%, Cadenhead's
Original Collection)
Colour: dark amber. Nose: beautiful
sherry. Lots of dried tropical fruits
(pineapple, guava). Some interesting
animal notes like in an old Bourgogne
(civet – I like that) with quite
some burnt sugar. A great one, for
sure. Mouth: beautiful as well, on
herbs and Sauternes wine. Lots of
dried fruits, fresh mango… Gets
very spicy, with some white pepper
and a bit of clove. Wow, again a great
old Dailuaine by Cadenhead! 90
points. |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: avant-garde trumpet star
Olu
Dara sings and plays
a most wonderful and very bluesy Harlem
Country Girl.mp3, from 'In The
World: From Natchez to New York'.
He used to play with Don Pullen (wow!),
David Murray or Cassandra Wilson,
and is also the father of hip-hop
artist Nas. I love him (the father,
not the son) - please buy his fantastic
music! |
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PREVENTING
HANGOVER – Every
whisky aficionado has his own methods,
from B vitamins to Uncle Rummie's
and from not mixing grape and grain
to swallowing litres of water. Yet,
we have another method now that should
be much more efficient. Indeed, after
every sip of whisky, you just have
to do this.
When it starts to sound too horrible
(meaning when your friends have left
the room since a long time), you're
done: just stop drinking. If your
friends left the room right after
- or during - your very first attempt,
try this.
In case you fail again, the method
won't work for you, I'm afraid (vocal
coaching by Chris
Beatty) |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: a beautiful one... Robert
Cray does Twenty.mp3,
blending blues, soul, a wonderful
guitar and some moving lyrics. Please
buy Robert Cray's brand new album!
(via moistworks) |
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TASTING
- Macallan 17 yo (43%, OB, Spain,
80’s)
Colour: amber. Nose: much more delicate
and less sherried than the regular
Maccallans, even there’s still
some heavy notes of orange marmalade.
It gets even quite peaty! What a perfect
balance – I wonder whether they
made it much less sherried because
it was a bottling for Spain…
Mouth: very elegant and refined, with
and extraordinary balance. Quite some
crystallised fruits, oranges, crème
caramel, like in the old Balvenies
(for instance the recent ‘Thirty’).
A beautiful Macallan, even if it’s
not too complex. 90 points. |
MUSIC
– Recommended
listening: already almost six months
since we had some Natalie
Merchant. You're right,
a shame! So, let's listen to Jealousy.mp3
right away, and why not also have
a great oldie like her former band
10,000 Maniacs' unplugged version
of These
are the days.mp3. Rule Natalie
the goddess! Please, please, buy her
music... |
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TASTING
- Glen Grant 1970/2005 (57.7%, Duncan
Taylor)
Colour: full amber. Nose: starts on
some big sherry and lots of dried
oranges. Develops on milk chocolate,
caramel… Perfectly balanced
although not ultra-complex. Very satisfying,
in any case. Mouth: creamy, caramelly
and fruity, getting somewhat rubbery.
Some notes of burnt cake, fudge and
bitter orange. Long finish, with some
nice notes of cooked wine. A very
good one, very ‘classical’.
89 points. |
CONCERT
REVIEW: CROSBY
STILLS & NASH
Hammersmith
Apollo, London, Tuesday 28th June
2005 - by Nick
Morgan |
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Apparently,
according to a bloke I met in my new
briny local by the Thames, the Lord
Nelson, this gig was organised as
part of the celebrations of the 200th
Anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar.
That explains, I thought, why tickets
were being promoted by the Daily Mail
(who also spent the last week pumping
up the Nation’s loins for this
celebration of our greatest day) amongst
the adverts for stair-lifts and time-share
hideaways in Cyprus, and why they
gave away a CS&N
CD with the paper (I use the word
in its loosest sense) at the weekend.
And why the venue was the Hammersmith
Apollo, originally named (as everyone
knows) The Victory Theatre when it
was built in 1805. And of course just
before the gig HM the Queen &
Co were conducting a review of the
Fleet at Portsmouth: “Our greatest
Victory over Europe ever” or
some such was the Mail’s headline.
In case you don’t remember Trafalgar
was the one when the brave British
boys, against the odds, destroyed
a combined enemy fleet under the flag
of, errr….well, you know who.
Odd really I thought that it had come
to this for these one time princes
of peace and outspoken critics of
injustice and oppression. But I suppose
we all change as time goes by, and
after all this is a band that’s
heading for the Bank of America Pavilion
in Boston, the Hampton Beach Casino,
and the Borgata Casino Resort in Atlantic
City (other visitors will include
Stevie Nicks, the Moody Blues, Chicago
and REO Speedwagon – ‘nuff
said?). |
But
I have to confess that I’m like
much of the audience (for surely no-one
can really like much they did after
about 1972) – taken back by
CS&N to an innocent world, captured
by the naive insouciance of songs
like Nash’s Marrakesh Express.
On the positive side it’s the
very late 1960s in North Oxfordshire
with a friend who’d turned up
from San Francisco to live with his
Mum and stepfather (who made classical
guitars and things, which seemed very
cool at the time) with a bag full
of long playing records that changed
my attitude to music. Moby Grape,
the Band, Quicksilver Messenger Service
(damn – I did like that album),
Strawberry Alarm Clock, Love (forever
gets re-released) and Crosby Stills
and Nash. |
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On
the other hand, if you take Nash’s
great song as an exemplar, it’s
a grotesque mix of cultural ignorance
and cultural imperialism. Peace, love,
but not a great deal of understanding,
until maybe thirty or so years later
when that train came down the tracks
like an Express out of control and
forever shattered the complacency
(I hope) of western Europe and North
America. |
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On
our left is Steve Stills. Played the
guitar very well, but he seemed distressingly
out of sorts (looked like he was heading
for hip surgery at best) and spent
long periods off-stage. Lucky the
backing band behind them were so good.
As the on-stage chemistry went he
said not a word to Nash, but spoke
and hugged with Crosby. Saddest of
all his voice was spent (even when
he tried to rock his way through Booker
T’s Ole’ Man Trouble from
his most recent CD) – he managed
few of his original harmony parts,
the reason I guess that we were spared
Suite: Judy Blue Eyes. Centre stage
Graham Nash. I wanted to describe
him as hopelessly talent less, but
even with my deeply ingrained prejudices
realise this could not be so. |
After
all, as Crosby later said, “we
all had our jobs man. Nash wrote the
anthems. Stills wrote the rock and
roll. And I did the weird stuff. A
dirty job, but …” So let’s
just call him an egotistical prat.
Bare footed, silk trousered, compared
to his band mates grotesquely insincere,
he seemed like one of those spooky
old guys who hangs around in gyms
in Lycra looking at himself an awful
lot in the mirror. And to our right
was Crosby. Strolling around his patch
like a benign and increasingly avuncular
walrus this man who once made his
body a temple to drug and alcohol
abuse (‘till he had most of
it replaced) gradually stole the show
– with his personality, presence
and most of all, his singing. What
a star! |
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So
I would have to say that ‘Guinnevere’,
led by DC, was the moment of the evening,
probably followed by ‘Long Time
Gone’ (Crosby leading) and ‘Almost
cut my hair’ (Crosby again).
It was an interesting mix of material,
probably only 50% truly from the old
days, mixed with songs from Still’s
more recent work and the new (2004)
Crosby and Nash album. Oh yes, and
in the week of G8 and L8 we had to
have ‘Feed the world’.
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I
have to say that much of this was
enough to make you wince – like
the sort of stuff they play when the
golf is on the TV, and confirmed my
theory that for blokes song writing
is for the most part a very young
man’s game – it’s
rare they can hack it once over about
25. Makes you wonder really how they
could ever have written songs like
‘You don’t have to cry’,
‘Chicago’, or ‘Helplessly
hoping’ (when Stills really
gave it a go on the harmonies –
“They are one person …”).
And they finished the evening –
of course, give the intimate link
with that greatest of all British
victories over those chaps from across
the English Channel, with ‘Wooden
Ships’. Oh how we danced. But
not for long before a bizarre encore
of ‘Teach your children’,
which saw Crosby being surrounded
by an increasingly large number of
his progeny, ages ranging from 30
or so down to about four. Which bits
did he have replaced?
Oh yes. One final point. I know Serge
has been overwhelmed with anxious
enquiries about the date for my Glastonbury
review. Guys – don’t you
know me better than that? I went sailing
in Devon instead, but still had to
suffer the new age hippies –
actually pilled up City-boys and tequila
juiced secretaries, in their mud cased
Armani jeans on the way home on the
train. For those who don’t know,
it’s a smug self-satisfied weekend
in the country for crass adolescents
and over-grown middle-class Guardian
readers. I nearly choked on my Brora,
when watching it on TV late on Sunday
I heard one BBC young-thing say (in
a music-hall northern accent) “Ooooh,
I had that real tingle when Coldplay
came on stage”, only to be told
by the other (more comedy accent)
“No for me it was Brian Wilson
…”. When we saw poor old
Brian, empty eyed in front of an unplayed
piano bop-bop-bop-adoping his way
through the surf classics like a man
trapped in a Dante’s Inferno,
I really had to wonder what sort of
drugs they’d all been taking.
But never mind. We do have an upcoming
Festival special, for the very best
of English music, later in August.
Watch this space. Nick Morgan
(concert photos by Kate) |
Thank
you very much, Nick. First, the music:
I find it a bit strange that you,
the fine fleur of the whisky industry
(I insist), decided to go see a guy
who did this.
Are you sure it wasn't rather Crotchy
Stills & Mash? You know, the band
that, precisely, did Wooden Chips
– I mean, Wooden
Ships.mp3. |
Second,
the Trafalgar thing (rings a bell
indeed - isn't the place near the
Falklands or something like that?)
I feel I must excuse our mad French
government for having sent the Charles
de Gaulle to your celebrations. I've
heard our monstrous carrier happened
to be the largest ship in situ, and
hadn't she been a nuclear one, I'd
have said you should have sent her
to the bottom immediately. Now, perhaps
not using a 18th century schooner,
that is... |
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And
finally, back to Stephen Stills. Do
you know what he did just before he
flew to London? He did a gig with
his ex-wife, French singer Véronique
Sanson. Where? On the Eiffel Tower.
Traitor! By the way, we also have
a very good live duet with Véronique
Sanson and bluesman Paul Personne:
On
m'attend là-bas.mp3. |
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TASTING
- TWO BALVENIES 'VINTAGE CASKS' |
Balvenie
30 yo 1970/2001 ‘Vintage Cask’
(44.6%, OB, cask #12524, 320 bottles)
Colour: light amber. Nose: lots of
herbal teas, spearmint, a bit of camphor.
Some coffee, getting quite herbal.
Very nice. Mouth: bold attack, on
cardboard (a nice cardboard ;-)) and
icing sugar. Cocoa, ripe kiwi, cape
gooseberries. Very creamy mouth feel,
a most enjoyable old Balvenie. 90
points.
Balvenie
32 yo 1968/2000 ‘Vintage Cask’
(50.8%, OB, cask #7294, 180 bottles)
Colour: dark gold – orange.
Nose: wow, really beautiful, with
some light coffee, straw, fudge, leather
and tobacco. Lots of vanilla too,
dark chocolate, marzipan… Really
beautiful, complex and quite nervous
yet bold. Mouth: incredibly creamy,
coating… Starts by tasting like
a great Riesling or a chenin. Lots
of vivacity, in fact. Really fresh,
with some fantastic notes of kiwi,
fresh pineapple, tangerines. I love
it, for it’s very complex yet
immediately enjoyable. Splendid: 92
points (and thanks, Ho-Cheng). |
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Check
the index of all entries:
Whisky
Music
Nick's Concert
Reviews |
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Best
malts I had these weeks - 90+
points only - alphabetical:
Balvenie
30 yo 1970/2001 ‘Vintage Cask’ (44.6%,
OB, cask #12524, 320 bottles)
Balvenie
32 yo 1968/2000 ‘Vintage Cask’ (50.8%,
OB, cask #7294, 180 bottles)
Bowmore
31 yo 1969/2001 (46.45%, Douglas Laing
OMC, 102 bottles)
Dailuaine-Glenlivet
27 yo 1966/1994 (45.7%, Cadenhead's
Original Collection)
Dailuaine-Glenlivet
31 yo 1966/1997 (56.8%, Cadenhead's
Authentic Collection)
Highland
Park 21 yo 1959/1980 (43%, OB)
Highland
Park 22 yo 1957/1979 (45.7%
- 80 proof, Cadenhead for Samaroli, 360 bottles)
Macallan
17 yo (43%, OB, Spain, 80’s)
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