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| Hi, you're in the Archives, August 2023 - Part 2 |
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August 31, 2023 |
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Ageless Smokies
How about we taste some peaty single malts and blends without age statements? What do you think? Generally speaking, there's not much to glean from them on a romantic, emotional, or cultural level (what?). These are usually small or medium-sized producers trying to establish their own brands, which of course we can't fault them for. But from an organoleptic standpoint, we might stumble upon some gems...
Gainsbourg by Jean-Jacques Bernier, 1985 |
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Smoky Scot (46%, Aceo, single malt, bourbon cask, +/-2022) 
Aceo are the current owners of Murray McDavid, so in a way, this is a wee peater by Murray McDavid, said to be only five (and therefore no ages are stated). Colour: pale white wine. Nose: pristine lime juice, oysters, crabs, kelp, light ashes and charcoal, in a very Coal-Ila manner. Elastoplast and fresh almonds in the background, which is even more CI in my book. Mouth: pure salty lemon juice, with less smoke than on the nose, but with more seawater, oysters, seaweed and all that. Finish: pretty long, still pure, still on a lot of seawater, anchovies in brine, and even with olives, which always puts me on cloud nine. Comments: we just did a mezcal session the other day, and we now realise how close to each other both spirits can be. I mean, some Caol Ilas and some mezcals. Brilliant wee drop, absolutely love it, even if there are zillions of very similar casks snoozing away in the centre of Scotland.
SGP:456 - 88 points. |
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Smoky Shores (46%, Wemyss Malts, blended malt, +/-2022) 
Apparently, this one is a blend of malts from various islands including Islay, a concept that we've seen before elsewhere (Six Isles and so on). Colour: pale white wine. Nose: it's a little tough after the Smoky Scot, as this one's less pure, a tad fatter, less smoky for sure, with a few more sour elements (sour apple juice and cider), more mud and chalk, even crushed slate and oyster shells, plus indeed some seawater. A little tequila this time, perhaps. More complex, less straight to the point. Mouth: closer, smokier than on the nose, with more lemon and seawater as well, ashes, oysters, a little icing sugar, riesling, grapefruit… All pretty good, even if once again, we liked the single's tension a little better. Finish: medium, salty, coastal, with a little Schweppes. For a Smoke and Tonic? Very briney aftertaste. Comments: very good, would take ice. Or in a Scottish Margaret (right, a Margarita).
SGP:454 - 84 points. |
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Classic of Islay (56.5%, Jack Wiebers for Van Wees, single malt, cask #502, 2022) 
Several versions of these 'Classics of Islay' have been Lagavulin, but as they wouldn't tell, they could as well bottle any other name without explanations or excuses, and they would be within their rights. And even add a dead mouse into the cask for a special finishing (private joke, don't bother). Colour: light gold. Nose: tar, ham fat, lamp oil, fumes, leather, fresh rubber, mercurochrome, cigars… With water: muddy water pit, dried kelp, seawater, oysters, hessian… Mouth (neat): this famous greasy barley-y sweetness at first, then rubber, black olives, leather, very salty urchins and pepper, plus liquorice wood chewed on for hours already. Same with some extinguished cigar. With water: more Demerara-y sweetness, tobacco, a mocha-spoonful of balsamico… Finish: very long, perfect, fat, wide, a little bitterer and more peppery. in that sense, it's the opposite of the Smoky Scot. Comments: sucker for this, as the poet would say.
SGP:567 - 90 points. |
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As We Get It 'Islay' (61%, Ian Macleod, 2021)
There's been some wonders in this series (especially when they were still mentioning the distilleries, ha). Colour: almost white. Nose: a pack of white sugar indeed, raw Kirschwasser, turbo-yeast (well any yeasts), sourdough, a flock of sheep, paint thinner and a lot of ethanol. With water: iodine, acetone, mercurochrome, de-icing liquid, nail polish remover, concentrated lime juice… How old would this one be? Mouth (neat): very pungent, new-makey, rough, ashy, drying. With water: much better, like it now, mezcaly, with olives, aniseed, more acetone (a feeling of acetone, right) and some garlic sauce. Or snails, ha, be my guest. Finish: long, raw, very ashy and salty. Some funny floral tones in the aftertaste, orange blossom water… Comments: it's really raw, a perfect topic of conversation with your friends, after dessert.
SGP:467 - 83 points. |
Perhaps an older one that we were having in the stash… |
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Smoking Islay (59.9%, Blackadder, Raw Cask, cask #BA2013/4459, 318 bottles, 2013) 
This was well a single malt, while many other Smoking Islays have been blended malts. The consensus is that these ones were Laphroaig. Colour: very, very pale white wine. Nose: once again, a feeling of utter youth, with a lot of white sugar, plus samphires, tincture of iodine, rubbing alcohol, bandages, wakame salad, nail polish, even wee whiffs of ammonia. With water: it changes completely and starts to showcase mango spirit and even pineapple liqueur. A tiny touch of coconut too, not too sure where that's coming from., could it be the wood? (but the whisky is almost white). Mouth (neat): class smoke, iodine and pepper, but very extreme. Drinking camphory ointments and balms (I imagine). With water: excellent! What a change, we're now having a lot of woodruff syrup and eau-de-vie, some delicacies we're very fond of at WF Towers. We're even going to make 40 litres of woodruff gin later in November, imagine! Elder flower liqueur is there too, simpler lemon as well. These molecules love to play with H2O. Finish: long, perfect when reduced. Superb 'medicinal lemons'. Comments: do not even consider trying these without water. Not because of the strength, just because water does them a lot of good.
SGP:567 - 87 points. |
And since we were at Blackadder's, a last one… |
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Black Snake 'VAT 6 2nd Venom' (59.3%, Blackadder, blended malt, PX finish, 436 bottles, 2016)
I believe they're using a proper solera system (not just an easy 'living vat' as they do elsewhere in rum and whisky) but I could be wrong. Colour: straw. Nose: a little strange. Some sour fruits, doughs, leaves (sorrel) and some wood smoke, but not much peat this far. With water: a lot of tobacco coming out, even a little hash. Not much peat though, if any. Mouth (neat): thick, creamy and very tart. Manzana liqueur, loads of green walnuts, white grapes, bark, stalk and stems… It does bite a little bit, but the peat remains as timid as, say in Highland Park. With water: sweeter, more on limoncello-like liqueurs, cream eggs, a few sultanas. Finish: medium, sweet, with raisins but no peat. Comments: very good despite the PX finish, but why did I think it was going to be peaty? it's really better to stop here.
SGP:651 - 83 points. |
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August 30, 2023 |
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Hi-flying Mortlach on the desk, part zwei
We've had quite some heavies yesterday, today might be a little gentler… Or not. Well, we'll try but given that this is Mortlach-the-Beast, we may well fail miserably…
Mortlach's six stills. The 1st stiil at the end is called 'The Wee Witchie'. (MM Archive)
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Mortlach 13 yo 2009/2022 (55.5%, Signatory Vintage for Whiskay, cask #306351, 269 bottles)
Some kind of lovely Asian tribute to Cat Woman, apparently. I imagine it would be inappropriate to mention Michelle Pfeiffer here and now. Colour: straw. Nose: immaculate, barley-y, oily, chalky, greasy spirit-driven Mortlach. I don't think we shall fill a complaint. With water: ueber-tight, dry, almost austere Mortlach. No prisoners, no indulgences. Mouth (neat): raw barley, apples and lemons, on some fats and oils, plus chilli this time again. With water: I think we managed to unlock additional flavours, around orchard fruits, riper apples, white peaches, melon skins… Finish: long, tight, grassy, austere. Green apples, oats, peppermint… Comments: perfect 1st-grade filler. We're not far from yesterday's last one, indeed no prisoners, so to be handled with care and with your usual humility.
SGP:361 - 87 points. |
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Mortlach 22 yo 1999/2021 (54.7%, Spheric Spirits, refill hogshead, cask #3874, 226 bottles)
We've tried some glorious stuff from these charming folks. Colour: straw. Nose: oh, metal polish, shoe polish, apple and pear spirit, roots and branches, then porridge and muesli, a little bacon (really), soot, that suet that we had found yesterday, quinces for sure… That's all rather perfect. With water: the fatter oils coming out. Gun oil and apple peel. Mouth (neat): great. Punchy, as tart as an 8 years old Rosebank of old, ridden with small citrus, yuzu, lime et all. Splendid. With water: some utter blade, in spite of the inherent Mortlachy fatness. Ultra-tight, say greener apples marinated in olive oil and lime juice. More or less that. Finish: same for quite some time. Comments: it never stopped becoming more citrusy. We could almost use it in a daiquiri… as a substitute for lime juice. Forgot to say, we totally and plainly love it.
SGP:561 - 89 points. |
Some older bottlings, perhaps? Quickly then… |
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Mortlach 16 yo 1988/2005 (57.9%, Duncan Taylor, Whisky Galore, sherry, cask #4743, 632 bottles)
I know, long time… Colour: gold. Nose: more classic Mortlachness for sure, with spent matches, burning candle, tarmac, grilled steak (make that a T-bone), coffee, mushrooms, spent engine oil… It was another era, was it not. I would have rather used this style of Mortlach for the new official range (the square bottles). With water: metal polish, old Jag, old Aston, old Cadillac, all that. Mouth (neat): fire, walnuts, sour fruits and burnt stuff. Sounds weird, but I love this. Bags and bags of burnt raisins, marrow, meats, beef jerky and biltong. Wow. With water: weird, deviant, stunning. Lime juice over burnt fruits and herbs. Finish: very long, in the ethers, far from anything that would be made today. Comments: I believe no other distillery is making this style these days, not even Mortlach. In the old days, you would have had the three Inverness distilleries, especially Glen Mhor. Glen Mhor, oh wait, I 've got an idea, please stay tuned… Anyway, belated congratulations Duncan Taylor, this is the real Mortlach (if I humbly may)… Signed: the slowest whisky blogger in the West.
SGP:472 - 90 points. |
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Mortlach 16 yo 1994/2011 (54.2%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 204 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: it is a very grassy, very austere, sooty Mortlach. Chalk, paraffin, carbon paper, asparagus, cardboard, concrete, rainwater. With water: mud, old tweed (grandpa's jacket from the war), leek, more rainwater. Mouth (neat): ah excellently citrusy and waxy, with once again a feeling of 'young Rosebank', oh and crunching pine needles. Sure it bites. With water: fat oils and vegetable soup, with a dollop of lemon juice. Getting salty. Finish: medium but appropriately fat, totally distillate-driven. Old sauvignon blanc, old Sancerre. Contemporary Sancerres are superb, but old ones that you had to wait for a decade or so were clearly superior. Nah, who would wait these days? Comments: no compromises, let's remember that this was distilled to provide components to large-volume blends. I would say it was rather a V8 engine.
SGP:372 - 88 points. |
A more recent one please… |
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Mortlach 15 yo 2007/2022 (56.8%, Carn Mor for Whisky Blibliothek, PX sherry hogshead, 304 bottles)
We're in Switzerland again. Colour: amber caramel. Nose: the PX feels but it's rather all on raisin rolls and kougelhopf at first, then we would find touches of aniseed and mulled wine. It is a lovely, rather Christmassy combination, aren't we early this time? With water: touch of cedar wood and pencil shavings this time again, notes pf asparagus too – which I love, no cabbage-type scents here – and milk chocolate. Swiss chocolate, naturally. Mouth (neat): sweet, full of raisins and soft baking spices, you just cannot get those Christmas cakes out of your head. Some enriched panettone too. With water: same, perfect, no dissonant spiciness, as can happen with this heavier PXed whiskies, there's just more mulled wine. Wait, mulled Pedro Ximenez? Did anyone ever try to make that? Finish: long, rich, raisiny, never too sweet, perfectly balanced. Comments: excellent, it's the perfect counterpoint to the superbly austere Cadenhead.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Mortlach 15 yo 1998/2016 (55.9%, La Maison du Whisky, Artist, 58 months sherry finish, 695 bottles)
This one too was sleeping in the boxes. Once again, such a long finishing is not quite a finishing anymore, some Distillers would just call this 'Sherry Matured'. Colour: full gold. Nose: this one's extremely Mortlachian, in my opinion, close to the old ones for Italy, with these metallic whiffs (more old coins and tools), this marrow and these meats, these earthy herbs and teas, these dark fruits starting to ferment… With water: superb! Many dried fruits starting with figs, plus piney notes, angelica, melissa water, a little yuzu… I think this one's perfect and not only about 'meaty raisins' with 'a touch of sulphur'. Mouth (neat): very rich, punchy, spicy, with these touches of sulphur from the spirit, paraffin, old pipe, dried figs and prunes, black raisins… And probably a few drops of Demerara rum. Did you know that British sailors were getting navy rum, while officers were granted with some Mortlach? Nah we're joking, that was in the French navy. With water: the oak getting a tiny tad louder, with a little more shavings and pepper and cinnamon. No problems, that's normal. Finish: long, very rich, It wouldn't want to let go and will keep control of your palate for a long time. Tsk-tsk. Comments: a big fat Mortlach, the old-fashioned way.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
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Mortlach 18 yo 1997/2015 (58%, Chieftain's Choice, Asia Palate Association, 1st fill sherry, cask #5238, 623 bottles)
Ian Macleod on the table again. This should be just as thick and heavy. Colour: dark red amber, towards red mahogany. Alright. Nose: same style, same dried fruits, same raisins, same musty, meaty and slightly sulphury and metallic tones, same black earth and mushrooms, musty old cellar… With water: perfection in this heavier style. Mouth (neat): this one's spicier on the palate, with rather a lot of caraway for starters, then cloves and paprika mingled with many big black raisins and, once more, a little Demerara rum. Then panettone, orange blossom water, and some tarter yuzu-style notes. All this is very lovely, actually, the yuzu lifting it a wee bit, for our pleasure. With water: this time again, a few heavier oak spices chiming in, around ginger and cinnamon, exactly what already happened with several others, especially the 1998 Artist. No problems whatsoever. Finish: long, and rich, this time a little more on coffee, Kahlua, mocha, also marzipan and kirschwasser. Almost some liquid Schwarzwälder (reminds me of a good friend of mine who's living on the other side of the Rhine). Big fat PX in the aftertaste. Comments: another classic sherried Mortlach. I still don't know which I prefer, between the natural Mortlachs and the Jerezian monsters.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
You are right, the scores remain extremely close to one another, there isn't much we can do against that, really. But good good good, let's talk now, as we've been mentioning 'the old ones for Italy'… |
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Mortlach 15 yo 1969/1984 (56.3%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, Donini Italy, +/-1985)
There were also 'Celtic' labels and the one for Intertrade, all 1969s bottled at the same strength. Colour: pale gold. Nose: it's on ashes, on ink, on unsexy matters, on mushrooms, on mosses, on chicken fat, on engine oil, on frying oil, on Indian lemon sauce (the name escapes me)… There's definitely something to talk about, that's for sure. With water: no sulphury marrow, creams, polishes or greases, as while fat, this nose remains citrusy and mushroomy. That Indian dish, remember? Mouth (neat): very creamy texture, but why were these old bottlings always creamier than modern ones? Only a matter of filtering? Asbestos? Kieselgur? Just paper? Now these fat pickled lemons make wonders. With water: small citrus, as jams and candied fruits. Bergamots, kumquats (a hit in the Flatlands), citrons – which ain't that small, agreed - and others. Some kind of smoky carboard in the background, but that may be OBE. Finish: rather long and, breaking news, plainly and totally on liquorice. We didn't see this coming. Comments: splendid, just perhaps not totally maravilloso. Come on, let's not spoil our enjoyment.
SGP:452 - 90 points. |
Good, we've been mentioning Glen Mhor, haven't we. Meaty whiskies, you know… |
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Glen Mhor 49 yo 1973/2023 (47.2%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection, The Recollection Series, refill sherry hogshead, cask #85026801, 170 bottles)
The Banff in this series has been just superb a few days ago, but indeed we were needing an excuse to try the new Glen Mhor. Because shh, just between us, we were having no other untasted Glen Mhor in WF's stash. C'est la vie (as Greg Lake would have sung). Colour: reddish amber. Nose: could be old rhum agricole, could be old armagnac, could even be very old bourbon, with these flabbergasting varnishy tones, these putties, oil paints, high-end coffee, humidor, precious flower compost, quinces in all their forms and appearances, nuts of all kinds, proper homemade chestnut purée, and first and foremost, honeys. The honeys are keeping it tight and coherent. Mouth: oh wow, is this tight and resinous! Big bitter oranges (the ones you shouldn't pick while in Andalucia, but you can't help because you're smarter), sucking tobacco, sipping ultra-tight herbal liqueurs and cordials such as J*********r, Unicum, Underberg, Montenegro or Cynar… It is not easy. Huge cinnamon (mints). Now did the oak take over? Perhaps, yes, as much as I love pine, fir and other woods that would take hostage your tongue, there are limits and we might be touching them now. Huge pepper and resins. Finish: very long, but a little tough. Crunching pine needles. Comments: I would have loved to share this one with Valentino Zagatti, he who just adored Glen Mhor. But I'm sure he would have found it 'un po' troppo amaro', no? The nose was totally out of this galaxy, though.
SGP:271 - 88 points. |
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Sample sizes |
| Why do we need 2-3cl for tasting and why is 1cl not enough? It's because the sensations in the glass are absolutely not the same, mainly on the nose but also on the palate, partially due to an unfavourable air-spirit mix, somewhat like when the carburettors on our old cars or motorcycles were out of tune, if I may dare to make that analogy. Moreover, when you taste a spirit for the second time, after adding water, it increases the need even more. That doesn't mean we gulp it all down, of course! The leftovers in the glasses go to the neighbour's houseplants. We're kidding... |
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August 29, 2023 |
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Hi-flying Mortlach on the desk |
Let's try the beast of Dufftown again. I don't seem to remember if the famous Wee Witchie, their smaller spirit + feint still, is always on or whether they sometimes bypass it to produce some pure double-dstilled malt spirit with all five bigs stills, as they can do with Wash + Spirit #3.
Still house operations at Mortlach.
Aye, its all 100% clear (Malt Maniacs) |
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In any case, they've already explained their 'Byzantine' 2.81-times distillation scheme to me many times, always with friendliness and in a convincing manner, but I would be utterly unable to explain it back to you in a credible way. It's probably easier to just taste some examples of their production... |
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Mortlach 10 yo 2012/2022 (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice, 2-year sherry finish)
A 2-year finish, that's almost additional maturation, especially given that this baby had always been dating a sherry hogshead for several years. Colour: brownish amber. Nose: you cannot not think of the early Flora & Fauna versions, but this one may have even deeper chocolaty sherry tones, more pencils shavings and a box of cigars as well, plus touches of old copper (coins) and a cup of very old pu-her tea – say fifth water. Ha. Mouth: very old-school sherry and very Mortlach at the same time, that is to say big and bold, spicy, slightly metallic once more and full of spicy Christmas cake. It would get then more 'modern', with more wood oils, pinecones and needles, a little kombucha, resins… It may have been smart (no wonder) to reduce this one, as I would imagine full-strength would have made it a tad too heavy. Big cloves and caraway. Finish: very long, with a lot of medium-salted liquorice, the ones that are blacker than black. 'Outrenoir', in the words of Pierre Soulages (RIP), and then geared towards some very spicy Thai dish. Comments: almost concentrated Mortlach that you could bring down to 20% vol while it would still hold. Yes, I've tried.
SGP:372 – 88 points. |
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Mortlach 10 yo (42.5%, Jean Boyer, Best Casks of Scotland, Re-coopered hogsheads, 1,000 bottles, +/-2015)
This should be exactly the opposite. Colour: pale white wine. Nose: we're at the bone here, as we say, with whiffs of apple peel, granny smith, woodruff and elder flowers, honeysuckle, gooseberries… Well while the Equinox was for winter, this is for early spring. No actual meaty and/or sulphury tones this time. Mouth: gummy bears and grenadine all over the place, St-Germain liqueur, drop of ginger tonic, apples, drops of geranium oil, some white peaches, lemon grass… Finish: medium, lemony and a little mojito-y, if I may. Comments: very nice, even if a little lighter than your average Mortlach. I'd say it would happily take a few ice cubes, around the month of May.
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
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Mortlach 10 yo 2012/2022 (48%, Artist Collective, LMDW)
Colour: amber. Nose: strikingly Mortlach, fatter, full of shoe polish, with touches of mutton suet, spent engine greases, plus just lemongrass and a little umami sauce. I think this is perfect, so far. Mouth: it sits right between the amazing Equinox and the lighter Jean Boyer, gathering the best of both. Superb leather, tobacco, polishes, cinnamon, touches of pine wood (or is that mizunara, that wood that adds £30 to any bottle of Scotch?), marmalade… Finish: only the finish is a tad sub-par, with a little green grittiness, around green walnuts and just grass. But it remains an awesome Mortlach. Some oak shavings in the aftertaste. Comments: I find this one, indeed, very Mortlachian. Bonus points just because of that.
SGP:461 - 89 points. |
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Mortlach 12 yo 2007/2021 'The Year of the Ox' (52.3%, Hunter Laing for Precious Liquors, 250 bottles)
We're in Asia here, naturally. Colour: gold. Nose: this one's a little earthier, almost a little muddy, with a fatter, waxier background and quite some tobacco too, dried herbs, bay leaves, walnut liqueur… All this is working very well. With water: some old-school muddiness, old pipe tobacco, old cellar, soot, saltpetre, old coal pit… Isn't this very Mortlachian too? Mouth (neat): good nutty and herbal sherry, full of tobacco, pepper, bitter oranges, walnuts, ginger tonic… It is almost some super-hot Campari. With water: it swims very well, letting oranges further come out, more of that Italian bitter, ginger tonic, walnuts… Finish: only the finish is a tad more indistinct, so less Mortlachian, but what was already in the bag is in the bag (right). Comments: Mortlach has the body of Lagavulin. There, I said it. Personal opinion, as always.
SGP:461 - 87 points. |
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Mortlach 10 yo 2012/2022 'Plume' (58%, Signatory Vintage for La Maison du Whisky, Antipodes, first fill sherry finish, cask #5)
Plume, which means feather in French, is perhaps not the name I would have chosen here (nah, it's the name of the whole series). Neither am I saying this will be an anvil, but let's make sure… Colour: amber. Nose: pretty similar to the Artist Collective, just punchier, chalkier, and even more on leather and tobacco. With water: there, this shoe polish, ashes, ground coffee, cocoa pods, then some distinct old balsamico, also soy sauce… Mouth (neat): very heavy and thick, shock-full of coffee liqueur, dark tobacco and pinewood. It's not often that we would find this much coffee in a spirit. Love coffee, but who doesn't. With water: this time it would rather move towards cigars and seeds (poppy, don't get me wrong). Some perfect peppery meatiness in the background. More tobacco, walnuts, chen-pi, cracked pepper… Finish: a little hot now, with some slightly turbulent spiciness, coffee dregs, cloves and caraway… Comments: I would imagine both the 'Artist' and this 'Plume' did come from the same parcel of casks. Winning combination.
SGP:461 - 89 points. |
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Mortlach 22 yo 1998/2020 (56.4%, Sansibar, sherry butt, 347 bottles)
Lovely drawing of the distillery; bottlers should sometimes make sure that labels can be easily removed for framing. Right, I know, fakers and forgers, the tardigrades of whisky… Colour: bronze gold. Nose: this is not a 'normal' cask, as I'm finding metallic notes that are more metallic than the metallic notes that one would usually find in Mortlach. Are we being clear? This coconut too is a little bizarre, these notes of stewed turnips and salsify too, but there's something eminently charming to all this. Let's dig deeper… With water: almost some very old Sauternes that went completely dry over the decades. Still some sulphuriness, stewed roots, cabbage… Mouth (neat): it's very meaty and a little sulphury, it's got these spicy, metallic, rather tropical aspects, and frankly, it's a strange Mortlach. Charming indeed, but strange. With water: same feelings. Finish: medium, earthy, rooty, a little sour, but once again with some coconut water in the background. Comments: rather loved this odd variant, but I think the bronze-ish colour gave it away, this was a rather deviant cask. Had it been patched or something? Or did a Diageo executive drop his Rolex into the butt at some point? Or did our sample bottle get out of the track? I shall enquire…
SGP:451 – (on hold - friends have confirmed that their bottles were perfect.). |
A very clean one, please, because the sherries can get tiring… |
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Mortlach 13 yo 2009/2022 (59.1%, Hunter Laing, The First Editions, Whisky Shop Zurich, Switzerland, refill hogshead, cask #HL 19266, 263 bottles)
We believe everyone knows that Zurich is located in Switzerland, S. Colour: white wine. Nose: this will be quick, this is pure distillate-driven Mortlach, full of herbs, flowers and oils. Elder flowers, sunflower oil, pine nuts, roasted pistachios, dandelions and wisteria, then lemongrass and parsley and coriander and basil (touches), then just barley. Always love it when barley comes out like this. With water: wet fabric, porridge, chalk and mud, muesli… Isn't muesli very Swiss anyway? Plus a bit of the distillery's trademark sulphury side. Mouth (neat): amazing fatness and vivacity, perhaps a little too much pepper and chilli but why care, some chlorophyl, black propolis, ginger mints… Boy this is no chamber music. With water: water does it much good, brings out oranges, walnuts, bell pepper… Finish: long, rather on green grasses and spices, that is to say not too easy. Chilli and green pepper. Comments: not a very easy one, I believe it would need a good chunk of your precious time. Some aspects are amazing.
SGP:361 - 85 points. |
We'll be back tomorrow, with more Mortlach… |
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August 28, 2023 |
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A few more Blair Athol
So, liquid brioches…
(Keith, MM Archive)
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Blair Athol 11 yo 2011/2023 (46%, Signatory Vintage, Un-chillfiltered Collection, Germany, dechar/rechar hogsheads, casks #309015+309019, 823 bottles) 
Always loved this series that keeps shouting 'We don't care about packaging, it's what's inside the bottle that counts'. See what I mean. Colour: white wine. Nose: it's still a little spirity, with whiffs of solvent, nail polish as well, before it would rush towards vanilla and bread territories. A little nougat too, and then cinnamon cookies. Let's call it 'a fair Midlander' at this point. Mouth: it's a bit raw, perhaps, with some porridge and green fruits. Radishes, turmeric, zests… It's really fine but it's probably not 2023's Taylor Swift of malt whisky (excuse me?). More cinnamon cake, rolls… Finish: medium, good, with some notes of varnish being back, lemon juice, probably some gin, or even some martini (stirred)… Comments: I really believe you could use it instead of gin in your cocktails…
SGP:461 - 82 points. |
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Blair Athol 12 yo 2009/2022 (48.5%, The Cooper's Choice, Pineau des Charentes, cask #307298, 318 bottles)
Pineau is all the rage these days, it seems. Right, pineau and Laphroaig. Remember, pineau is must fortified with cognac. Some old ones can be stupendous, but there's a lot of cheap stuff too. Colour: gold. Nose: it's got these notes of old barrel, old cider, peach liqueur, panettone, then roasted pecans and cashews… I have to say this works. An very faint muscaty side, also some fresh raisin rolls… Mouth: it really worked, even if it does feel a little, say 'hybrid'. The influence of the pineau is pretty huge in fact, with rounder tones, banana liqueur, preserved peaches, tangerines, Cointreau, must indeed… It's very fine, really. Finish: medium, sweet but not dull, with some walnut liqueur, so nocino, and a touch of artichoke (Cynar). No complaints. Comments: no complaining indeed, the marriage succeeded this time, especially when there are so many divorces elsewhere these days.
SGP:641 - 85 points. |
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Blair Athol 8 yo 2014/2023 (58.6%, Lady of the Glen, 1st fill bourbon hogshead, cask #312607)
We expect some raw, pure Blairatholness here, should such a thing exist. Colour: light gold. Nose: bits of metal, wee glass of cider, ripe apples, green bananas, zests and pure barley eau-de-vie. I mean, new-make. I remember a Distillery-only Blair Athol that was a bit like this, around fifteen years ago. I often noticed that Distillery Managers used to like these rather 'natural' casks. With water: custard, with small herbs, borage flowers, dill, agastache leaves… (one of the French chefs' favourites these days, or so it seems). Mouth (neat): very creamy, rich, thick, liqueury, totally on barley and lemon. I would say this is perfect, simple but perfect. With water: I think I'll mention Agastache leaves once more, which are pretty close to mint, so that you know in case you don't. The flowers are closer to liquorice. Other than that, this is a perfect allrounder, creamy, rich, extremely close to the original barley. Finish: did we mention liquid brioche already? Comments: love this one, it's just a tad too drinkable, too binge-compatible. Never have a bottle on your side while watching Netflix.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Blair Athol 11 yo 2011/2023 (56%, Dram Mor, refill bourbon hogshead, cask #308610, 305 bottles)
As I think I already suggested, Blair Athol takes easy bourbon particularly well. Colour: straw. Nose: I think this is close to perfection, ridden with croissants, banana cakes, amaretti, mirabelles, bergamot sweets (Nancy's – not Nancy Reagan mind you), beeswax and just a drop of lemony cologne. Right, or yuzu gin. With water: same, no changes worth mentioning. Mouth (neat): oh good! A rather pleasant soapy side at first (not any worse than you gin), then perfect lemons, vanilla, teas, cinnamon rolls and banana cake. Not that far from the Lady (of the Glen) despite being refill. With water: herbs, peel and grass coming through, which adds freshness and tightness. Finish: rather long. More barley goodness. Comments: exquisite young Blair Athol, once more. In a way, you could say that 8 yo in first fill = 11 yo in refill. Well, not too sure, please cancel that.
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Blair Athol 2010/2023 (54.4%, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Kirsch Import, Sauternes hogshead, cask #303318, 298 bottles)
A Sauternes hogshead? Anyone who finds a hogshead in a Sauternais château would win, courtesy of Whiskyfun, a rose gold Audemars-Piguet with diamonds (the low-IQ international footballer model). Beware, challenge subject to restrictions. Colour: gold. Nose: in a way, Blair Athol is also a sponge for any wine finishing or else. In this very case, apricots and quince do abound, jasmine and wisteria too. Very 'young Sauternes' indeed. Now if you dismount proper barriques from Sauternes to build a hogshead, as they do with bourbon barrels, why not. I doubt anyone would heat up an old hoggie and inject three litres of the cheapest Sauternes under high pressure, and then call it 'a Sauternes hogshead'. With water: very nice, on chamomile, mirabelles, quinces and orange blossom. Mouth (neat): excellent. As often, Sauternes and compadres Cadillac, Cérons, Loupiac, Sainte-Croix-du-Mont or even Monbazillac (not Bordeaux) take malt whisky effortlessly. Apricots, mirabelle, acacia honey, rose jelly… It's got this sémillon-side. With water: very good, easy, rounded, not too sweet. Finish: medium, sweet, with some tarter, even slightly acidic citrusy and mentholy notes. Comments: our friend Jean Donnay, of Glann ar Mor and Kornog fame, pioneered the use of Sauternes and alternate sweet wines in whisky, more than 20 years ago. I remember a Braes. Bravo, Jean.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
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Blair Athol 2009/2022 (58.2%, Or Sileis, Taiwan, 1st fill oloroso sherry hogshead, cask #304003, 279 bottles)
It's to be noted that all the cask numbers today go like 3--,---. All from Signatory? Colour: amber. Nose: and all good? This time we're rather on burnt cakes, kougelhopf, with some unexpected shoe polish, that famous old copper kettle that we keep mentioning, 'Trump's penny book' (we've already used that loose descriptor I think), overripe banana skins and even a little old rhum agricole… With water: more copper, cigars and old boy's jam. Perhaps a thin slice of pecan tarte. Mouth (neat): thicker and more on chocolate, pipe tobacco, chestnut purée, coffee-schnaps, deep-roasted peanuts, bits of dried apples, a small flintiness as well… With water: it takes water like a champ. Superb roasted and caramelised nuts of all kinds. Finish: rather long, nuttier yet, with a flinty and very faintly soapy background. No problems, typical oloroso. Comments: with much love to our dear Taiwanese friends. We'll soon do a terrifyingly long Kavalan session, by the way. Many Nantous too.
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
Alright, a 'peat-flavoured' one was needed, I suppose. Looks like these odd mixtures are making their way into all our sessions, I'm afraid. The worst part is, they're good. |
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Blair Athol 14 yo 2008/2022 'Ex-Islay Quarter Cask Finish' (54.7%, Single Malt Dreams, Norway, cask #303305A, 124 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: right, Blair Athol being 'a gentle sponge', even a small amount of peated whisky will just take the lead. I'm reminded of some lighter peated Speysiders, such as Benriach or Tomintoul. I'm really not sure they keep doing that but, say fifteen years ago, all the master distillers were telling you, in utmost secrecy and with conspiratorial looks, that they had started producing 'peated batches'. As always in Scotland, they all have exactly the same innovations, at exactly the same time, and they are always very proud of it. We love them! Anyway, nice peat in this one, but it won't change the world. With water: hessian, chalk, beach sand at low tide, etcetera. Mouth (neat): it's very good, it's as peaty as Coal Ila, it's got ashes, deep smokes, in short, peat. I wouldn't call this 'Blair Athol', but there, it's very good. With water: olives, lemons, bits of rubber. Finish: long, peaty as a peater. Comments: we call this 'in-cask blending', but we're taking quite a bit of artillery fire because of that. And we don't care. Excellent blended ma… shh…
SGP:465 - 86 points. |
We'll do more Blair Athol soon. We'll do more of everything anyway. |
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Pineau des Charentes |
It is made in the departments of Charente and Charente-Maritime in France and is the result of blending fresh grape juice and very young Cognac. It contains about 16-22% alcohol and is aged in oak barrels. Pineau des Charentes can be white when using Cognac grapes, or red or rosé (not Cognac grapes). It's been granted an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) and the aging process must occur in the region of origin. |
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August 27, 2023 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
Bag of rums and cachaças
Indeed, I've decided to start this little session with cachaças. It's my blog, I do what I want, okay? On the stereo, we'll have Jorge Ben, Hermeto Pascoal, Ney Matogrosso, and perhaps even Djavan.
Old ad for the famous Demerara rum from Cadenhead, dating from the time when the Aberdeen company had not yet been taken over, so before 1972. 'When you ask for dark rum, it's just a shot in the dark'. (Taken from the famous book by David Stirk, Independent Scotch). |
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Sapucaia Velha 5 yo (40.2%, Cadenhead, Malternative Release, cachaça, Brazil, 414 bottles, 2019)
I was pleased to see them use the term 'Malternatives' as well, even if they rechristened them 'Alternative Releases' later on, which, in the own words of Sir Black Adder, makes as much sense as a tomato with wheels. But love them, always will. Colour: white wine. Nose: like many cachaças in my very narrow book, it's one of those spirits that would sit between rum and jenever. Beans and lentils, caraway, olives, cardboard, lime, seawater, thyme, lemongrass, dandelions, genepy… I'm finding the genepy in there particularly obvious. Mouth: mint and lemon, you could almost call this 'mojito-y', plus roots (celeriac and beets) and a little pinewood, needles, resin… The light strength poses no problems in this context. Finish: medium, with more aniseed, another typical marker of cachaça, I think. A little sugar syrup and fir liqueur in the aftertaste. Comments: very fine. We'll make caipirinhas tonight.
SGP:551 - 80 points. |
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Cabana (40%, OB, cachaça, Brazil, +/-2020) 
This one is white and aged for more or less one year in large wooden vats. It is pure cane juice, double distilled in pot stills. In theory, the holy grail… Colour: white. Nose: almonds, putty, glue, maraschino, e basta. Mouth: it's okay, it's fresh, almondy indeed, with good lemons, aniseed indeed, something slightly burnt/overheated in the background, apple liqueur (manzana verde)… It is not unpleasant but it is extremely light. Finish: short, a tad disjointed, with these burnt notes, and apples and aniseed in the aftertaste. Comments: okay. Ish. Perhaps not in tonight's caipirinha.
SGP:340 - 68 points. |
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Novo Fogo 'Chameleon' (43%, OB, cachaça, Brazil, 2022) 
I find the bottle lovely, it reminds me of Jura ;-). This is a reposado, more or less, meaning that it spent one year in oak. Gut feeling: that's either not enough, or too much, but let's see. Having said that, I remember That Boutique-y Rum Company had a very good 3 yo Novo Fogo. Colour: white wine. Nose: fine, fresh, with some lemon, aniseed, white asparagus and loads, really loads of gingerbread, speculoos, stolle, anise cookies (what we call Anisbredala in Alsace)… Mouth: we're between a dry liqueur and a spirit, really, this must have been flavoured in some way, at some point. Even more gingerbread and Anisbredala (see, you learn fast), some candy sugar, lemon drops, wine gums… Finish: medium, on just the same notes, ans always a lot of anise in the aftertaste. Comments: some parts of the process must escape us. No worries. Perhaps the wood they use? A little bit in the style of the CAD, but less complex. This one will make it into our caipirinha.
SGP:550 - 78 points. |
A light rum before we move to higher degrees… |
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Demerara 'Solera No.14' (40%, Rum Nation, Guyana, +/-2022)
We've tried earlier batches, they were very sweet but the core was good and the heart willing. Colour: deep amber. Nose: typical navy-style rum, full of molasses and roasted nuts, coffee, chocolate, dried figs, Starbucks stuff, Nescafé, walnut wine… So far, so nice. I'm wondering if they have not made this one a little drier and straighter, let's see… Mouth: it is sweet, for sure, with a lot of pancake sauce, molasses honey (it's not honey but they call it honey in South America – only bees can make honey, capeesh?), Nutella, nocino, maple syrup, full-on caramel, chocolate mousse… Finish: short, very sweet, on Kahlua, maple syrup and even more pancake sauce. Comments: I must be going soft, I thought it was good.
SGP:730 - 78 points. |
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Engenhos Do Norte 2006/2021 (52.6%, Le Gus't, Madeira, cask #58, 261 bottles)
It doesn't say so on the label, but this should be proper agricole (with a GI). We've tried one of these Engenhos, by Barikenn, earlier this year and thought it was brilliant .Colour: gold. Nose: love this unusual combination of aniseed and gunpowder, cabbage and caraway, leek and nutmeg… It's clearly something very 'different'. With water: a tad bizarre perhaps, with fumes and more gunpowder, and this aniseed that reminds us of those cachaças (that's why we're trying this now, mind you). Mouth (neat): higher league on the palate. Absinth, liquorice, crushed bananas, peaches, blackcurrant berries and buds, a little tobacco, a little mustard, a little horseradish, a little paprika, a little marmalade… With water: much more cassis, love cassis! You would believe they've distilled this in Dijon, where liqueur and crème de cassis are a thing. Finish: I can't get this cassis out of my head. There's also a slightly salty, slightly smoky tang. Comments: good, this might rather be for rum enthusiasts who've already tried everything, but I for one love this Atlantic cassis aged in oak.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
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Havana Club 11 yo (50%, OB, exclusive to the Whisky Exchange, Cuba, 2023)
Pernod at the helm here, I would suppose. By the way, I would encourage you to visit the Havana Club Museum in La Havana, it's really worth it, the old labels in the bar are just wonderful, for example. The fresh-squeezed cane juice in the yard as well. Colour: gold. Nose: very soft panettone, angel hair, those stunning small bananas they have over there (no money for pesticides!), this white chocolate, this grated coconut (never over the top)… I don't think I've ever nosed some HC that's been this nice. Plus, I'm rather a Santiago-de-Cuba guy, honestly. But this time, I bow; first time, I think… With water: waffles, nougat, white chocolate, granola, protein bars… Mouth (neat): more sweet and minimal, without a lot of depth at this point, with some sweet oak and touches of hay and oranges, but let's see what water will do to it on the palate… With water: it remains gentle, sweet, with some nougat, honeyed cereals and sweet teas (rooibos?) I think water is unnecessary. Finish (neat): medium, with oranges, coconut, nougat and cornflakes. Comments: it is not Versailles, but in my book it is in the same league as that of HC's Seleccion de Maestros or of their 25 yo by their 'Distillerie Générale'. Pretty high.
SGP:640 - 86 points. |
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Renaissance 2019/2023 'Deuxième Cru Classé Finish' (64.7%, OB, exclusive to The Whisky Exchange, Taiwan)
Isn't it that rum distillery everyone's talking about? Regarding this 'Deuxième Cru Classé' finish, let's say that the classification of the great Bordeaux wines took place in 1855, so I'm not sure that said classification has any influence on the quality of a Taiwanese rum that would have spent a few months in a barrel from one of these châteaux. But I'm open to being convinced; now it's funny that they would call the island 'Formose' on the label, as was customary at the time. But enough chatter… Colour: copper amber. Nose: awesome acetic, estery, varnishy arrival, plenty pencil shavings, massive sauna oils and leather polish; then a very muddy development, full of damp earths, compost, used floorcloth, old sponge, vase water, duck pond, rabbit cage… With water: no Bordeaux, more upholstery, oils, resins… Mouth (neat): huge, massive, highly extractive, dangerous. Mind you, almost 65% vol. With water: oranges, lime, lemony herbs, lemongrass… It's excellent but I'm not getting huge amounts of distillery character. Finish: long, modern, on cedarwood, pencil shavings, lemon zests, more wood shavings… Very drying aftertaste, losing points here. Comments: technically perfect, unless you're allergic to oak. BTW, I just saw that the finishing barrique came from Léoville-Poyferré, a château that's not bad at all. Can we hope for a trilogy with Barton and Las Cases, while we're at it? Even if I think I liked the 2018 'Fino' rather better.
SGP:562 - 82 points. |
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Ninefold 3 yo (62.2%, OB, exclusive to The Whisky Exchange, Scotland, ex-bourbon, 207 bottles, 2023)
We're seeing a-ny-thing these days, no need to comment on everything that looks or sounds a little odd. After all, the sugarcane fields that sway between Inverness and Wick are absolutely splendid, and anyway, there's probably no harm in anticipating the results of global warming a little bit. No? When you think that they are discussing terroir issues in... Barbados. So, Scottish rum… Colour: gold. Nose: that's the worst part, this nose is quite nice, with some rather moderate coconut and a lot of pistachio nougat. Cornflakes. A little ethanol. With water: possibly a little too much wishful thinking, beyond some pleasant notes of metal polish it remains a little shy, but it's got some rather nice bourbony touches. Mouth (neat): it's good, potent but good, even if there's a little too much coconut for my taste. Heavy dechar-rechar? With water: not much else. Cereals, bourbon and peanut bars. Finish: a little short when reduced. Hay, grass, teas. BItterish but not unpleasant aftertaste, rather on fruit peel and grass. Comments: in fact, no comprendo mucho here, I'm afraid. I'm sure it's me, not them, that they must be knowing what they're doing and that they are stunning, passionate folks. Nah, it's good rum and I'm not even a tenth of a rum expert. Perhaps a little too young?
SGP:351 - 79 points. |
Well, after all, they also made whisky in Cuba during Fidel's time, so why not rum in Scotland. We just have to forget any notion of terroir since the molasses could not stem from the distillation country. No, let's not mention barley, please. Having said that they could have tried a short finishing in some ex-Islay wood, as is fashionable in malt whisky, some rum distilleries in the Caribbean have already done that, I'm thinking of HSE in Martinique, for example, or also of Chamarel in Mauritius, and there are many others. Wouldn't a rum distillery in Scotland be even more legitimate to do that? |
Good, I'll try to add a few personal opinions about terroir at the end of this little session, in the meant time, let's have a last, probably less controversial one please… |
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British West Indies 'XO' (46%, 1731 Rum, +/-2022)
All right, this is a blend of Jamaican, Guyanese and Bajan rums, so I suppose strictly nothing could go wrong here and now. Coz we need that, mind you… Colour: pale white wine. No colouring! Nose: does the job, with some petrol, hay, cane juice, bread, dried flowers, some faint smokiness, some chalk, a drop of nail polish remover, some grasses, some paint… Mouth: goody good, lemony, salty, olive-y, diesely, etc. Some lemon juice. Finish: gherkin brine, a little honey, soft molasses, grasses… Comments: no-brainer, good 'British' blend, without any caramel or any other obscuring substances. A little dry.
SGP:462 - 82 points. |
A tougher session and no plain and utter stars today, that will give us a break. But we still have loads of ammunition, so stay tuned... |
 Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far
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Terroir |
Terroir is a French word that more or less means 'a particular place where plants are grown and that's characterised by factors such as topography, soil and climate'. An extended, more modern version would add 'Man' to those factors, since most, if not all places where fruit, vegetables, grains or other plants are grown have been shaped by Man anyway, with choices being made, since at least the Natufians. |
That being said, in spirits, and since very few distillers actually use ingredients from a defined terroir, or even ingredients from the country of origin of the product, the term terroir is, sometimes a little fallaciously, extended to notions such as 'the place where the transformed product is made', for example a distillery, or even to the place where that product is aged. It cannot be denied that these aspects do, or let's say can have an influence on the organoleptic qualities of a product, but this hasn't got much to do with the real notion of 'terroir'; it remains pure marketing and/or politics in that respect. |
The same applies to the notion of origin, because while it's certainly best of the best of the best to have the three major production phases around the same location (cultivation and harvest of raw materials, transformation of these raw materials, potential aging of the result), the true origin, for example in wine, or in quality eaux-de-vie, or in cognacs, armagnacs, or calvados for example (and there are loads of other examples), remains first and foremost that of the place where the raw materials are grown and harvested. The use of these kinds of terms when importing raw materials from other countries, for example, seems to me pretty problematic, if not a little misleading to the consumer. If you ask some friendly distillery people about the origin of, say their barley, many will mention the name of the big malting plants they're working with! |
All that even if, let's be clear, the use of a production method specific to a place allows in many cases to manipulate, in a perfectly legal (but perhaps not always fully moral) way, notions of origin, or even GIs (Geographical Indications) in cases where the specifications have been written in a rather, let's say, collusive and benevolent manner. In whisky, some new regional PGIs (Protected Geographical Indications) were even meant to specify that the barley or other grains had to come from the same region, while others never stipulated this at all. In any case, so far in whisky, there are no obligations. Sometimes origins or what resembles them are merely registered trademarks that guarantee absolutely nothing.
(That part updated, thanks Christine) |
In truth, one could almost imagine that a blogger or an expert who has the time would add a three-digit profile to every spirit or brand tasted. For example:
111 = harvested on-site, transformed on-site, aged on-site.
011 = harvested elsewhere, transformed on-site, aged on-site.
010 = harvested elsewhere, transformed on-site, aged elsewhere.
001 = harvested elsewhere, transformed elsewhere, aged on-site.
000 = fully sourced finished product.
100 = hey, that's a farmer.
Well, we're looking for volunteers, especially since, of course, brands aren't fools and know perfectly well how to use smoke, mirrors and indeed some sweet little lies by omission. Sometimes it's even becoming amusing, if not charming since we love them all, unconditionally. Alright, peace. |
Post Scriptum: we must also not forget, regarding off-site aging, that many distilleries did it to minimise risks as much as possible in case of an accident in the warehouses, like the worst of all, a fire that could destroy ten years of production or more at once. Most of the large distilleries, even competing ones, have thus being distributing their stocks and therefore their risks among themselves for ages. |
Post Post Scriptum: one could see in the widespread practice of finishing in wine casks (custom-made or authentic châteaux), among other things, an attempt to generate a form of authenticity and sense of place that is lacking in the original product. In other words, we consumers do not know much about the distillate itself and its raw materials, but we do know that the wine used to flavour it at the end comes from a promising young winemaker from the northern part of the Barbaresco region, in Piemonte, in the north of Italy, who's putting his Nebbiolos into top-notch medium-toasted barriques made from Tronçais oak by Tonnellerie Radoux in Jonzac, Charente-Maritime. Dear mister winemaker, please allow me to borrow your terroir! |
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August 25, 2023 |
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WF's Summer Trios
Today baby Glenglassaugh
while we wait |
A few years ago, one could have thought that Glenglassaugh would gain much importance in the malt whisky scene, but today, I find that they have remained rather discreet. Anyway, I don't come across them very often... (but I still manage to spell the name correctly, ha!) We'll only have young ones today but let's remember the Distillery had been silent from 1986 until 2008 (or was it 2009?) which explains a lot.
Banana wine from Martinique (L'île où Merveilles)
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Glenglassaugh 4 yo 2018/2023 (50%, Claxton's, Exploration Series, Sauternes barrique)
Boy is this one young! Even younger, and it would be a kilogram of barley plus a glass of Sauternes. Some kind of finishing without any primary maturation in other words (come on, S.) but don't get me wrong, I very well know these modern babies can be super-good. Colour: gold. Nose: this is pure pastry, custard tarte, crema catalana, mirabelle liqueur, white chocolate, banana cake… With water: a tad more on croissants and brioches. And a small kougelhopf while we are at it. Mouth (neat): more sweet wine influence, as well as more spices, peppercorns, touches of ginger and cinnamon from the oak (I suppose it was French oak but many are also using Slovenian or Hungarian oak – same species though). Big pink gooseberries, oranges, plums… With water: more sweet maltiness, but indeed a sémillon-side too. Perhaps a tiny bit of pineapple? Finish: medium, on pastries, ripe bananas, custard, more white chocolate, a drop of muscat… The oak feels a little bit in the aftertaste. Comments: very good, of course, but the real achievement here is to make our guts (or hearts) believe it's ten years old, while our brain knows it's only four. Well done.
SGP:531 - 83 points. |
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Glenglassaugh 8yo 2012/2021 (58,1%, Hart Bros., Marsala hogshead finish)
Some Marsala in a very young malt whisky, what could go wrong? Does it really take cojones to keep making malt whisky without any winey crutches? Colour: light gold. Nose: same style as that of the 4, pastries, cakes, bananas, gentle maltiness, buttercream, even raisins this time, plus some soft oak spices. Cinnamon and ginger, plus a tiny lactic side… With water: no changes. Mouth (neat): good, sweet, with some honey, maple syrup, more crème au beurre, more custard, some white nougat… Hints of bay leaves, perhaps bamboo shoots. With water: drops of liqueurs, plums, and even half a glass of Aperol. Probably the cask. Finish: medium, sweet, with some chocolate from the oak in the aftertaste. Comments : I don't believe I will remember this little Italo-Scottish whisky until the end of time, but it has been well made, no doubt about that.
SGP:641 - 84 points. |
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Glenglassaugh 7 yo 2009/2016 (54.7%, OB, Sherry hogshead, Rare Cask Release, cask #R1160, 155 bottles)
We'll keep this short. The younger the whisky, the shorter our notes (of course not). Colour: full gold. Nose: walnut cake, gingerbread, whiffs of Madeira, mushroom soup, raisins, clove. With water: ginger, molasses and more mushroom soup. Mouth (neat): syrupy, thick, creamy, very liqueury and spicy. Huge extraction, not for the fainthearted. With water: still heavy, even a little stuffy. Finish: long. Some sides are lovely (pineapple liqueur) but I'm finding too many spices. Some banana wine in the aftertaste, also burnt eggplant. Comments: spectacular at just 7, but a little cloying as a consequence. Trial and errors, I would suppose…
SGP:661 - 79 points. |
I've heard they have a core range now, we'll try to taste these before Christmas (2023). Peace. |
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August 24, 2023 |
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More whiskies from
THE Speyside Distillery |
Sadly, we haven't got any officials. I believe we've only tried Michael Owen's selection recently. It was well Michael Owen's own selection, was it not? Excuse me? Ah, yes, an excellent English footballer (it seems).
(2014 ad)
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Speyside-Glenlivet 28 yo 1991/2019 (49.3%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, hogshead, 294 bottles)
I suppose this one too will be a little rough and an all-purpose malt whisky, so a good filler. Colour: light gold. Nose: no, I was wrong, this time we're on tropical fruits, which would suggest that the cask was active. Melons, apples, plums, papayas, a little mango, some acacia honey… All is well. Mouth: excellent, with more apples and melons, peaches, a little chalk, lemon oil, a little chlorophyl, green pepper… Very good oomph, clean distillate, very pleasant, pretty pure. Finish: medium, well balanced, with bits of mango once more. Liquorice, fresh citrus and a little white pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: im-pec-ca-ble, and an ode to good aging.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
Another sister cask please… |
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Speyside-Glenlivet 27 yo 1991/2019 (48.6%, Cadenhead, Single Cask, bourbon hogshead, 300 bottles)
Colour: light gold. Nose: a few metallic touches this time, sour fruit, granny smith, grapefruit, kiwi, muesli, rhubarb… No, it's very nice. Mouth: in the style of the latest Authentic, really, a tad tarter, that's all, but I find it just as good. Some very floral honey, guavas, a little chalkiness… Finish: tropical fruits coming out. Mango yoghurt, drop of Aperol once more. Good length. Comments: I like this one a lot. It seems I've missed a lot in recent years; I need to be more attentive. And yet Cadenhead had sent me a lot of them; but that was 'before'….
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Speyside-Glenlivet 23 yo 1994/2018 (50.9%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 210 bottles)
Colour: light gold. Nose: this one is very exotic, very tropical, full of bananas, mangos and passion fruits, with quite some custard as well. Peaches as well. Very good cask. With water: touches of hessian and old fabric, that's funny. Some magnificent peaches. Mouth (neat): bananas and grapefruits this time, with a Sancerre-y side. Kiwi and strawberries too, sherbets, juices… And Szechuan pepper. With water: perfect Sancerre from Scotland. I'm absolutely not joking, think Mellot's Moussière. Easy, straight, ueber-fruity. Finish: medium, very fruity indeed. Orange blossom honey, pink bananas, more peaches… Comments: how could we have missed these?
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
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Speyside Distillery 25 yo 1995/2021 (60.9%, Quaich Bar, Singapore, puncheon, 608 bottles)
This one was selected by Frank McHardy, so their might have been some connections… Colour: full gold. Nose: no, it's very different from the CADs, much more on a fino character, walnuts, vegetal earth, compost, struck matches, cabbage… With water: full-flown waxes and engine oils. Say Veedol (come on). Flints. Mouth (neat): chalky and very strong. Not an easy arrival but aren't we above the 60%-mark? With water: a fat fino-y character, with lemons, grasses, apple peel and indeed, green walnuts. Tiny touches of mutton meat, parsley, turmeric, paprika… Finish: rather long, fat, slightly bitter yet rich. Comments: it's a little tough after the bourbony fruity brightness of the CADs, but it remains an excellent Speyside.
SGP:562 - 85 points. |
When you think that they built this distillery almost by hand, you realise that in the end, it's been worth it. Bravo, Mr Christie. |
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Speyside Distillery 22 yo 1996/2019 (53.1%, Liquid Treasures, 10th Anniversary eSpirit, sherry hogshead, 187 bottles)
Betty Grable on the label? Thirty years ago, I had a friend who had Betty Grable painted on the tank of his Harley. Those were the good old days. Colour: gold. Nose: all very all right, on cakes and sweet leaves, geranium... Angelica too, wormwood, borage, that's the kind of complexity that soft, moderate sherry can bring. With water: vegetal oils, sunflower, grape pips, colza… Mouth (neat): another excellent one, a tad on shoe polish at first, then on citrus, lemongrass, genepy… It is a little unusual, but really lovely. Touch of sloe, juniper, small berries... With water: superb as long as you do not drown it. I'm sure Betty Grable, or at least her GIs, would have loved this. Finish: medium, with more softer citrus as well as those tiny herbs that we love so much. Beeswax and a little peppermint in the aftertaste. Comments: much love for this wee one that as a little 'different'. Viva la difference!
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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Speyside Distillery 22 yo 1996/2018 (54.8%, Valinch & Mallet, Lost Drams Collection, sherry hogshead, cask #18-2202, 124 bottles)
Why 'lost drams'? Is it not from Speyside Distillery? Colour: amber. Nose: nuts and oranges, plus varnish and paraffin, plus a little mustard. The jury's still out, but probably not for long. With water: a walnut cake and some blond tobacco. Mouth (neat): ha-ha, one of those wonderful 'bourbon-like' sherried malts. Heavy varnish and paint, even glue, biting nocino (I know the owners will know what I mean), orange cordial, beeswax once more, bitter herbs, pine resin, bitter vermouth (same comments about the owners)… With water: more walnuts, amaro (hey owners!)… Finish: long, wonderful. Walnuts and apple peel, old calvados perhaps, soft mustard… Comments: wonderful drier sherry, you would almost believe you're with Equipo Navazos.
SGP:462 - 88 points. |
I'm starting to get the impression that the malt from Speyside Distillery acts like a sponge towards very good barrels. True regal behaviour, let's continue... |
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Speyside-Glenlivet 18 yo 1995/2014 (62.8%, Cadenhead, Small Batch, sherry and hogshead, 738 bottles)
Mixing sherry and a hoggie, just a Friday afternoon idea? Let's see… Colour: gold. Nose: not very expressive to say the least, but that's most probably the strength. Let's move on. With water: chocolate and toasts? A lot of caramel, millionaire shortbread, cornflakes, pancake syrup… Mouth (neat): very strong but it's got this fuely side that's very intriguing. Kirschwasser made by giants, for giants. In short, it is a little explosive, and indeed expulsive as well. With water: I'm glad we tamed it, but I'm not sure it's in the same league as that of most other CADs we tried within these two days. Stewed sour fruits, cherries, rhubarb, not too sure in fact. Finish: long, rather on doughs, sourdough, fresh kougelhopf… Really not too sure (despite that kougelhopf). Comments: It's probably very good, but I had trouble handling it. It's my fault...
SGP:551 - 83 points. |
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Speyside (Distillery) 23 yo 1995/2019 (51.4%, Archives, hogshead, cask#31, 177 bottles)
In theory… Colour: white wine. Nose: some pure, fatter Sancerre, that's what it is. Sunflower oil, grapefruit, crushed bananas, chalk and just whiffs of shampoo. That's funny. With water: maize bread, fresh croissants, banana cake, and rather suntan lotion this time. Piz Buin? Mouth (neat): brilliant, tropical, this is almost a readymade Scottish daiquiri. Wonderful bananas (you say there are no bananas in daiquiris?) Tiny touch of coconut water. With water: much love for this. What we used to call 'some liquid fruit salad' in the old days. Ripe pears are there. Finish: medium, wonderfully fruity, fat and fresh at the same time. Bananas at the helm. Comments: I think I forgot to mention quinces and mirabelles, which would give this baby a Balvenie-y side. Fantastico.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
I promise the next one will be the last one. The coming series did astound us yesterday, so it's only normal that we would have one of those as the broom wagon… |
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Speyside (Distillery) 23 yo 1992/2015 (61.7%, House of MacDuff, Golden Casks, South African Sherry Cask, cask #CM223, 434 bottles)
Holy Suzy Creamcheese, nearly 62% vol. Colour: straw. Nose: it's hot, really. As if they had distilled bread in a Holstein with all flaps closed (not sure that's the proper vocabulary). Plantains. With water: not any easier, it's still rough, raw and tough. Mouth (neat): tutti-frutti eau-de-vie, raw kirschwasser and painful tequila endorsed by just any Hollywood celebrity in need of recognition. But I'm sure that's the strength… With water: certainly better, more on young calvados, pear spirit, walnuts… But it's hard to get rid of the raw eau-de-vie-ish-ness; I'm asking you, but what are we going to do with these distilled wild strawberries and raspberries, for example? Finish: long and still on eaux-de-vie. Comments: probably a move by the South Africans, but it's true that we love them, so we forgive them for everything.
SGP:651 - 82 points. |
Some official apologies now: we haven't given enough attention to the Speyside Distillery on this miserable little website. We hope these two equally miserable sessions will have somewhat made up for that, and we're looking forward to tasting the next ones. End of official apologies. Goodbye. |
By the way, I just calculated the average for this session, and it's 86.5 points, which is extremely high. |
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August 23, 2023 |
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Twenty rather old whiskies from
THE Speyside Distillery
(not from A Speyside Distillery) |
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| (Speyside Distillery) |
Honestly, I find myself quite embarrassed today, as this has been going on for years, and it was time to put an end to this intolerable situation. Indeed, the "Speyside" box at Whiskyfun Castle has been growing steadily in recent years, and I never made the effort to verify whether all these samples labelled 'Speyside' were actually anonymous Speyside whiskies, of the "Secret Speyside" or "A Speyside Distillery" varieties, or if they were genuine single malts from the Speyside Distillery. In short, there was a lot of procrastination, and it was time to try and separate the wheat from the chaff. Dear Speyside Distillery, please accept my most sincere apologies... Let's see what we have, randomly and sometimes rather quickly… |
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Speyside-Glenlivet 27 yo 1991/2018 (48.8%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 318 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: all natural, mineral, malty, with some chalk and some fresh bread, plus just a tiny floral touch, rather on wisteria and perhaps orange blossom. It does the job but it shows no signs of older age. Mouth: sweet, malty and fruity. Good body, strength is perfect. I'm finding orange drops, then a little green oak and some 'green' coffee. Perhaps a little rucola salad, rather astringent, that's the oak. Finish: medium, rather on lemon sweets, grapefruits, tart tropical fruits. Grass and green oak in the aftertaste. Nice finish. Comments: a little neutral, rather a filler, I would suppose some lovely 25 yo blended Scotch would have been delighted to have this one on board, so to speak.
SGP:551 - 84 points. |
Let's see what a younger age will do… |
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Speyside-Glenlivet 19 yo 1998/2018 (49.4%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection, bourbon hogshead, 252 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: same profile, a tad more on chalk and sourdough, and a little less on flowers. Touches of cassis and cranberries, I would say. Mouth: same ballpark, oranges, redcurrants, a little sawdust, pepper, green tea, grapefruit drops, grass, chalk… There's more life and more freshness here, I think I like it a little better. Some woodruff syrup or liqueur, some mullein syrup or liqueur, both parts of my favourites and perfect ingredients for top-notch spritz cocktails. Finish: medium, fresh, rather fruity, slightly 'fizzy'. Say those spritzes! Comments: very good, pretty pure. And mind you, woodruff and mullein!
SGP:551 - 85 points. |
Aren't these Speysides pretty floral?... |
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Speyside Distillery 26 yo 1994/2020 (45.7%, Thompson Bros., refill hogshead, 121 bottles)
Colour: white wine. Nose: more sweet oak, more tropical fruits, more mango sherbet, more guavas, more maracuja ice cream… And stewed rhubarb. Simply awesome and even slightly Bowmore-y. We're talking unpeated B., naturally (should that exist). Mouth: awesomely tropical indeed. Pink grapefruit and passion fruits, touch of mentholated honey, indeed these touches of fresh mint that can sometimes found in some Sauternes… Lovely, lovely dram. Finish: medium and always as fruity. I'm reminded of some old young Rosebanks… Comments: top dresser this time, from a blender's point of view. Did anyone notice this amazing wee bottle? Curious about the hogshead's previous content.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
Speyside 31 yo 1989 (51.3%....... STOP, everyone pause, do you see the issue? It just says Speyside, but I suddenly remembered that the first year of distillation at Speyside Distillery was 1990. So this little 1989 couldn't possibly come from Speyside Distillery! Let's move on to the next one… |
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Speyside Distillery 8 yo 2014/2023 (51.7%, Dram Mor, Moscatel finish, cask #2432, 289 bottles)
Colour: apricot. Nose: sour fruits, peaches, a little concrete and soot, oranges, bell pepper, some caramel, some raisins, some heather honey. With water: wee whiffs of rubber (inner tube) otherwise some floral muscat and a little leather. Mouth (neat): rich and sweet, touch of paraffin, raisins, muscat indeed, muesli, clove, bit of old wood… With water: it's sweet and it's good. Finish: medium, rather sweet and coating. Dried goji berries (meant to be good for our health, so I might have another shot of this little… I'm joking). Comments: sweet and playful. Not my favourite style, but I have several friends who'd utterly love it.
SGP:641 - 80 points. |
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Speyside Distillery 23 yo 1992/2015 (56.8%, Milroy's of Soho, Soho Selection, 300 bottles)
It was matured – possibly not for its whole life – in an ex-French oak South African fortified wine cask. It does say 'Speyside Distillery' and not 'A Speyside Distillery'. Colour: white wine. Nose: I don't know anything about that South African fortified wine, except that it's from Paarl. Well, it's working particularly well here, with whiffs of old wood, dunnage and even hessian, then red apples and stewed peaches plus pralines. With water: bark, moss, walnuts… That's all perfect. Mouth (neat): excellent! Blood oranges, apples, heather honey, touch of wasabi, chilli, Szechuan pepper, touch of tobacco… This is absolutely lovely. With water: raisin rolls, marmalade and orange squash. This baby brings back childhood memories, all we'd need now would be Ray Charles or The Beatles on the stereo. I have an idea, why not Eleanor Rigby covered by Ray Charles? Stunning track. Finish: rather long, with spicy raisins. Comments: pretty exceptional. So Paarl, you say…
SGP: 651- 89 points. |
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Speyside Distillery 26 yo 1995/2022 (56.8%, The Single Malts of Scotland for Kirsch Import, sherry butt, cask #27, 390 bottles)
Could be a sherry monster, given the colour… It says 'Speyside Distillery' but is it Speyside Distillery? Colour: coffee with bronze hues. Nose: Christmas cake, dried dates and figs, chestnut honey, maple syrup, old tools, old copper, mushroom soup, other honeys… The thing is, I wouldn't be able to identify the distillery anyway. Besides, the small illustration on the label shows a kiln, and there doesn't seem to be a kiln at Speyside Distillery. Alright, let's keep going... With water: English brown sauce, gravies, honeys, marrow soup and back to our Christmas cake. Mouth (neat): deep and thick PX-like sweet and spicy sherriness, full of peppers, hoisin, garam masala and just coffee and chocolate. With water: same, only a notch more honeyed sweetness. Finish: rather long; spicy (pepper) and with many raisins and dried figs. Touch of soot and gunpowder in the aftertaste. Comments: good talking, as they would say in the French National Assembly. Love this rich and sweet bouillon.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
Please an old bourbon cask… |
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Speyside Distillery 28 yo 1992/2021 (56.4%, House of MacDuff, Golden Cask, bourbon barrel, cask #CM275, 171 bottles)
Colour: amber gold. Nose: glue and turpentine, as a matter of fact I love this. Then balsa wood, drops of coconut wine, some very sweet mustard and some touches of garam masala this time again. I find this just superb and really characterful. With water: gets very faintly acetic, which we love, while paints, varnish, glues and turpentine keep running the show. Four aces. Mouth (neat): huge and almost totally on dazzling old bourbon such as the earlier Willetts. I know it's the cask, but what a cask! With water: have I missed something here? Where does this magic come from? Honeyed oats, putty, fresh marzipan, roasted sesame, baklavas… Ho-ho-ho-ho… Finish: long and perfect. Stunning nougat and honeys, reminding me of some stuff from Nature Valley's. I know, bad nutrition advice, Brora ( and Speyside Distillery, apparently) is better. Comments: a bit over the top here and there, but we don't care, this old little Speyside is mind-boggling. A wonderful surprise, golden cask indeed.
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
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Speyside Distillery 23 yo 1995/2018 (54.2%, The Maltman, for HNWS Taiwan, Caol Ila cask finish, 294 bottles)
Well, a finishing in some Islay, I suppose it's going to be daring; here we go, brace yourselves... Colour: gold. Nose: I believe the trick is working better when it's Caol Ila rather than, say Laphroaig that could make many whiskies smell like a provincial hospital. But it is still a little bizarre, metallic, with some rubber and some engine oil. With water: gets a little 'muddy'. Mouth (neat): It's not the first time that this kind of odd composition would work better on the palate than on the nose. Some resins, propolis, honey, peppery peat, seawater, caramel, cornflakes… With water: indeed, this is better, with some pine resin and, well, don't get me wrong, but I'm having a feeling of Johnnie Walker Black. Not a bad sign. Finish: relatively long, salty, and now that we're accustomed to it, well, it's not bad at all. Much spicier aftertaste, pepper… Comments: Philosophically, I'm not a fan indeed, but I don't deny that certain aspects are enjoyable. The spices are explosive on the finish.
SGP:464 - 82 points. |
Since we're around there… |
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Speyside Distillery 26 yo 1992/2019 (57.7%, House of MacDuff, HNWS Taiwan, Ex-South Africa sherry, cask #CM253, 216 bottles)
Don't tell me they're going to pull the CM275 stunt again... That being said, folks, either the cask comes from South Africa and it can't be sherry, or it's sherry and it must come from the Jerez triangle and nowhere else. Sherry means Jerez, that's all. Sorry if I'm a bore, but it's like Champagne that ought to stem from… Alright, alright… Colour: deep gold. Nose: an invasion of honeys, roasted nuts, yellow flowers and dried fruits. Not to mention preserved peaches and apricots. With water: meats and bouillons up. Love that. Mouth (neat): magical palate, really. Sublime winey spices, clove, caraway, drops of high-ester rum or Grand Arôme, heavy 'sherry' (I know), sweet meats, all-spice. I'm reminded of some crazy Millstone and Heartgow/Hercynian etc. I've tried the other day. Very excessive but great, great fun, like the… wait… say the New York Dolls. With water: exceptional chocolate and marmalade. Fantastic spice combo, I believe the house Kikkoman should borrow the recipe. Finish: pretty eternal, which could be a little problematic in tasting conditions. Heavy spices, pepper, chocolate, prunes, raisins. Comments: this one too is totally over-the-top, but life is short, isn't it.
SGP:661 - 90 points. |
I have the feeling that the reputation of Speyside Distillery is only rising on Whiskyfun these last few minutes... Perhaps one more? Perhaps a simpler hogshead? |
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Speyside Distillery 28 yo 1994/2023 (55%, Limited, bourbon hogshead, cask #52, 173 bottles)
A brand new one this time, for some smooth landing, let's hope so anyway. Colour: full gold. Nose: we're back to civilisation, to undulating barley fields, to gentle orchards in Kent, to the markets of Provence and to an old hotel bar with vintage leather armchairs and plenty of mahogany and brass. And our dear old bartender friends! Praline brittle, custard pudding, halva, croissants, ripe apples, ripe mirabelles, nougat. With water: more or less the same. Classic, easy, certainly not asymptomatic; this is well well-aged malt whisky from some good wood. Mouth (neat): very good, very malty, with custard and triple sec, candyfloss, biscuits, cinnamon rolls and ginger cookies… It sure could be many distilleries (not the characterful ones) but the result is perfect so far. With water: very good wood management, good balance, some sweet/sour wine (I know it's no wine cask), all pleasure. Touches of mango and papaya jam, which sometimes come with rejuvenated American oak, but no ideas if that's the case here. Finish: classic length and profile. Vanilla, ripe apples, plums, honey softer spices… And a spicier aftertaste. Comments: honestly, it's very, very good.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
Well, I don't think I could tell you much more about the Speyside distillate style, as nearly everything we've tasted today was heavily influenced by the casks and the wine. We'll see tomorrow, as we'll have many more whiskies from that place… (today we've had ten, tomorrow we'll have ten more for the cause). |
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August 22, 2023 |
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WF's Summer Duets
Today Balvenie vs. Burnside (once more) |
First an earlier young OB, then a recent old IB from the teaspooning gang's. |
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Balvenie 12 yo 'Signature Batch 4' (43%, OB, 2011)
The penultimate inception of a series done to celebrate Master Distiller Dave Stewart's 45 years in the industry (after he had left Eurythmics – joking). Batch 1, which we had tried in 2008, had been excellent (WF 88). This batch 4 was matured in sherry butts, first-fill bourbon barrels and refill bourbon barrels and used to come both at 40% and 43% vol. Colour: gold. Nose: it's a very mirabelle-y, quince-y, vanilla-y Balvenie. These are the Balvenies we tend to prefer, even if this one may also display a little too much oak-spiciness (ginger, turmeric). Mouth: same impressions, word for word. Quinces, mirabelles, turmeric, ginger, custard. This spicy oakiness feels a little bizarre, a little out-of-place, but the rest is rather lovable. Lovely blood oranges too, drop of bone-dry fino sherry, but not a magnum of Tio Pepe... Finish: rather long, rather spicier. A lot of pickled ginger, sushi-style, some coriander leaves too. Comments: those woody spices seemed a bit excessive to me, but apart from that, it's still a good Balvenie, for sure. And twelve years have passed... and the blood oranges were nice.
SGP:561 - 84 points. |
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Burnside 30 yo 1989 (51.2%, Artful Dodger Whisky Collective, blended malt, refill bourbon barrel, cask #4555, 317 bottles)
Bottled three years ago but I believe it came out pretty recently. This is supposed to be Balvenie 'teaspooned' with other makes from William Grant's, well probably not Ladyburn as it says 'Speyside'. With some 30 years old Glenfiddich? Mmm… Colour: white wine. Nose: purity first. The aforementioned quinces and mirabelles, white marshmallows, yellow melons, elderflowers, acacia honey, greengages… It is, indeed, epitomically 'un-sherried Balvenie'. With water: some meringue, some putty and some marzipan, a bit of pinewood, white nougat, custard, balsa wood… Mouth (neat): typical old Balvenie. More quinces and plums, more acacia and other white flowers, lively plums, and just a hint of sour wood that must have come with old age. With water: it takes water well, getting fruitier, with more sweets, syrups and liqueurs. Prickly pears, perhaps, poppies, geranium, even raspberry candies, some Jell-O… I quite adore this childlike aspect. Finish: medium, sweet, on cotton candy, rhubarb jam… All excellent. Comments: the wood has never managed to have the last word, it's remained miraculously fresh and lively all along. One of the best recent Balvenie (like) malts if you ask me. No corners were cut.
SGP:641 - 90 points. |
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August 21, 2023 |
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Six Glencadams by way
of pleasant penance |
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| Glencadam Distillery (Glencadam) |
We did a couple of Glencadams the other day and beyond some wishy-washy results, it seems that one ABV was wrong, while several notorious online retailers were having it just as wrong. They say nothing is perfect in this world, but we do feel the need to make amend, with a little bag of other Glencadams. Because that's how it goes at WF Towers (any excuse, always). |
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Glencadam 11 yo 2011/2022 'Reserve Cask Parcel NO.10' (48%, Elixir Distillers, The Single Malts of Scotland, 4 casks)
The name of the bottler would suggest that there has been no tampering with the casks here. Colour: white wine. Nose: pure porridge, broken branches, sourdough, cider apples, then a little smoke (burning cardboard, charcoal…), then peaches and a touch of jasmine. Mouth: same, very 'natural', with cakes and pastries, cereals, oats, some green pepper, apple peel, touch of turmeric… Finish: medium, with the peaches being back and some greener green tea, which would lead to a slightly bitterer aftertaste. Comments: indeed some all-natural, rather naked malt whisky. Hold on, naked malt, apples, Adam… but of course.
SGP:461 - 84 points. |
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Glencadam 13 yo 2003/2017 'The Reawakening' (46%, OB, 5,994 bottles)
I wouldn't have tried this one again but Angus found it very average, while I had found it a wee tad better. Time to make sure (not that it matters much)… Colour: white wine. Nose: sweet porridge and custard, apricots, muesli, blancmange, a little lime and lemon juice, cut grass… Mouth: nah I find it not bad at all, despite the small death-seat effect after the TSMOS. Some bitter grasses, some lemon skin, then chalk and cardboard, touch of mustard… Finish: rather long but very dry, with even more mustard, tealeaves, lemon zests… Getting gritty towards the aftertaste. A lot of raw wood then, sawdust… Comments: indeed, not bad at all, despite all this greenness. But I think we'll now stop re-tasting this baby which is probably not the most significant of all the whiskies ever produced in Scotland.
SGP:461 - 81 points. |
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Glencadam 15 yo 2007/2023 'Reserva de Jerez' (46, OB, oloroso sherry finish, 9,420 bottles)
The 'Réserve de Sauternes' had been very good in my book, let's check this newer finishing. Colour: gold. Nose: ultra-tight nose, fully on walnuts and mustard, you'd almost believe they could put their hands on proper solera casks, but I suppose this whisky would have been darker then. Very nice earthy tones, mosses, dried mushrooms, parsley, then even more walnuts. A large bag, and rather a lot of hessian (from that bag). Mouth: top notch dry sherry, with even more walnuts, nocino, leather, tobacco, some coffee as well, bay leaves, poppy seeds… I find it excellent. One raisin hiding in a corner. Finish: long, a tad sweeter, and spicier (ras-el-hanout). Drop of pear liqueur, cracked pepper and clove in the aftertaste. Comments: greatly done, lovely oloroso sherry. I insist, some proper solera butts, by any chance?
SGP:561 - 87 points. |
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Glencadam 15 yo (46%, OB, +/-2023)
A proper hit when the first 'new' 15 came out. Probably not the first time I'm telling this, but I remember Big Jim McEwan telling us 'in secret' that it was his favourite dram. It's not that common that spokespersons would push a brand that's not theirs like this. I last tried this little 15 in 2009 (WF 87 back then). Colour: straw. Nose: raw, cereally, dead-on on barley and soil, then on sweeter custard and fruit tarte, between mirabelles, strawberries and apples. Let's not forget quinces. Mouth: so good. Touches of cinchona, lemon juice, Schweppes, Campari, green peppers, hints of aniseed, coriander… I believe you could drizzle this over an insalata caprese. Finish: our friends the walnuts are back. Awesome. Comments: it seems that it hasn't changed one iota since 2009. Unless it's an old bottle, but it is not. Jim is still right.
SGP:551 - 87 points. |
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Glencadam 11 yo 2011/2023 'Call That a Grand Prix' (62.1%, The Whisky Barrel, 1st fill bourbon barrel, cask #TWB1034, 207 bottles)
This one's celebrating Apollo 16's Lunar Roving Vehicle #2. Call that a Bugatti or a McLaren! I suppose it's going to be some celestial Glencadam… Colour: white wine. Nose: awesome, on butter cream, fudge, nougat, halva, shortbread and a little peat smoke, Islay-style… But it is a little strong. So, with water: chalk, mud, old tobacco pouch, kelp, porcelain, razor clams (just an example…)Mouth (neat): feels a little 'blended' with a peater from Islay. Of course it isn't, but perhaps did it spend some time in an ex-Islay cask, as is so fashionable here and there. Very good, naturally, with lemons, iodine, granny smith and green walnuts. Hurray. With water: the moon, I mean balance is achieved. Lemons, salty stuff, almonds, smoke… Finish: it's almost as peaty as Talisker, to give you an idea. Comments: wait, did they do peated batches at Glencadam? In that case, success success! Otherwise, it's always a bit embarrassing when a single malt displays a style that has nothing to do with its own. On the other hand, when it's as successful as this, I suppose one can't complain too much...
SGP:565 - 87 points. |
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Glencadam 11 yo 2011/2023 (62.5%, Signatory Vintage for Valinch Collective, 2nd fill bourbon barrel, cask #800173, 239 bottles)
Another 2011 (well observed, S.) Colour: white wine. Nose: no peat this time, rather lemons, granny smith, IPA and quite some C2H5OH. You're correct, that's ethanol. With water: very tart, very grassy, very much on green fruits, angelica, woodruff tea (just brew some this morning), greengages… In truth this is all totally and fully perfect, if simple. Mouth (neat): pure, almost crystalline barley-y lemon and green apple. We sometimes say that these cut you into two equal halves, with millimetre precision. Or that they 'send shivers down your spine'. With water: winner, no doubt. Impeccable doughy, grassy, green fruitiness, with an oily creamy lemony base. Nothing to add, it is flawless. Finish: long, like a blade. Lemons. Comments: quite incredible for a little malt without any legendary character/status and just eleven years old. It would restore your faith in humanity, in Scottish humanity at any rate. Let's cut the crap, it's just very splendid young malt whisky.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
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Nocino |
| It is a traditional Italian liqueur made from unripe green walnuts. The process of making Nocino involves steeping green walnuts and honey or sugar in alcohol. After a few weeks or several months, the mixture is strained, and the resulting liquid is aged, sometimes in wood. Our dear friends at Whisky Antique/Silver Seal are making some stupendous Nocino, we've already downed a few bottles at WF HQ. Check them out (that was some totally free and truly unsolicited advertisement). |
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August 20, 2023 |
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A word of caution
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are done from the point of view of a malt whisky enthusiast who, what's more, is aboslutely not an expert in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or any other spirits. Thank you – and peace! |
More Rums
First an apéritif.
Juana Bacallao, La Havana, 2016 (WF Archive)
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Embargo 'Anejo Esplendido' (40%, OB, blended rum, +/-2022) 
Packaging is frightening. We've tried an 'Anejo Exquisito' that' was pretty poor the other day (WF 50), but I have no knowledge of Spanish laudation, so I couldn't tell you whether 'Esplendido' is supposed to be better than 'Exquisito' or not. With a name like 'embargo' you would believe it's Cuban rum, but it is not. Colour: gold. Nose: pretty nice, on apple peel, melon skin, sunflower oil, custard pudding, a touch of cane juice… Even if it's all really light, nothing bad to say this far, on the contrary. Mouth: oh, no, it's full of sugar, which makes it very cloying at room temperature (currently only 20°C!) Hard to drink, even Coca-Cola is bone-dry by comparison. It is that sweet that in the glass, it moves as if it were oil. Finish: unbearably sugary, almost Saturated with sucrose. Comments: now I understand why there could have been an embargo on this dangerous, garbage-y liquid. The nose was rather nice. They call it 'el ron libre', well, it's not sugar-free for sure.
SGP:920 - 35 points. |
One day, we'll stop doing these stupid apéritifs. Let's move… |
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Millonario 'Cincuenta' (50%, OB, Peru, +/-2022) 
Wow, some 50-year-old rum! Unless they would be referring to the strength? In truth this baby is ten 'South-American years' old. Colour: amber/caramel. Nose: smoky molasses? Roasted chestnuts? Torrefaction? You would almost believe they blended lapsang souchong with espresso coffee. With water: the smoke almost went away, some grass and leather came in. Frankly, not an unpleasant nose. Mouth (neat): sugarcane and coffee liqueur. Toughly sweet. I think Kahlua is a little better, but there's a little rose essence in this rum that's not unpleasant. Intriguing… With water: it's clearly way too sweet for my taste, too liqueury, but beyond that I'm finding the fruity and floral flavours pleasant. Roses again, pineapple, then vanilla and coconut. Finish: short but on the same liqueurs banana liqueur, coffee liqueur, rose liqueur, you name it…Comments: I could not sip it, except on Himalayan amounts of ice cubes, but I admit it's quite well made.
SGP:730 - 60 points. |
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Patridom 'Gran Reserva Overproof' (57.5%, OB, Dominican Republic, +/-2021)
The 'XO Cask' had been below par earlier this year (WF 49), but let's keep faith and hope. A they say (do they?), multicolumn = mini-rum. Colour: golden amber. Nose: same song and same dance, nice nose, this time with some polished oak, rooibos, nice varnishes bourbon-style and a large bag of ripe bananas. You'd almost wonder whether someone well-intentioned hasn't poured a few litres of Jamaican into each barrel. With water: indeed, good varnish and cane juice, that's impeccable. Mouth (neat): it's very sweet once more, but not any sweeter than chartreuse, mind you. What counts is that there's some 'stuff' to support the sugars and… no, forget, it's becoming really cloying and difficult even at this high strength. Water will probably slaughter it… With water: water butchers it, it's got even sweeter than a 5-kg bag of aspartame. Finish: pure corn syrup. Comments: I liked the nose. In fact, it can be very economical, you nose your glass and put it back into the bottle. With this amount of sugar, your bottle will keep forever.
SGP:831 - 40 points. |
Alright, enough joking around… |
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Cuban Rum 30 yo 1991/2021 (47.2%, Chapter 7, Cuba, 78 bottles)
'A rare find' they say. That's an understatement! We've tried some very old rums in Cuba (stuff by Maestros and all that) but they had always been bottled at 40% vol. and were a little frustrating. Let's see… Colour: red amber. Nose: I hate it that I do not smoke cigars anymore – or very rarely – coz I would have put some old 'son' on the stereo, chosen an old Lusitania, and had a perfect Cuban moment with this very subtle rum that's all on old varnishes, old cedarwood, rosehip tea, brown banana skins, roasted pecans, chocolates, old leather (saddle)… We're almost at the Buenavista Social Club, which still exists, lovely place when it's not too full of tourists (like us, err…) Mouth: it feels like there's a proper proportion of pot-still aguardiente in there (try 'Sao Can' if you can find it), while as far as styles are concerned, I'm rather reminded of Santiago. You just cannot get cigars and coffee out of your head, here, not to mention old woods of all kinds. Oh and dark 80%+ chocolate. I find it exquisite. Finish: long, with some oranges, more chocolate yet, more coffee, more tobacco… What's more, the obvious tannicity is totally under control. Comments: it's got the knack that all very prestigious ultra-old OBs do never display. Are there other casks?
SGP:451 - 90 points. |
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Cuban Rum 50 yo 1971/2021 (46.7%, Chapter 7, Cuba, 99 bottles)
Right, let's be serious, Fidel used to work with Swiss bankers (he was no fool) and since the excellent folks at Chapter 7 are from Switzerland too, well, maybe there's been a kind of connection there. I mean, an independent fifty-year-old Cuban rum?! Well it's not found under a horse's hoof! Colour: red mahogany. Nose: shh… Marrow, cigars, parsley, bear garlic, old pu-her tea, old humidor, shh… muscovado, old Nuits-St.-Georges, half a coriander leaf, drop of old amontillado, old renaissance wardrobe, genuine chen-pi, shh… garden earth, morels, truffles… but shh… Mouth: shh… wood oils for sure, but also subtle molasses and chocolates, abandoned tobaccos pouches, old pipes… shh… and cigars, precious coffees… a tiny hint of onion jam… roasted pecans once more… the subtlest molasses… but shh… Finish: shh… it's coating and wrapping, with more precious woods and tobaccos, subtle honeys (melipona bee honey of course), various roasted nuts, pines… Comments: right, as far as music goes, I would recommend Chucho Valdés, of course. Or Juana Bacallao, whom I have met in La Havana. She's now 98 years old, proof that rum and cigars… But shh…
SGP:562 - 93 points. |
Well, how would you go on? Perhaps with this?... |
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Havana Club 'Anejo Reserva' (40%, OB, Cuba, 1980s) 
Proper Cuban Havana Club. A bottle sacrificed for the Rum Maniacs, a short-lived online experiment from quite a few years back. Colour: gold. Nose: various aromatic herbs, complemented with some hay and with some crushed cane, something truly subtle, floral, some caramel and some biscuits…. And bags of nougat. Do they, or did they make nougat in Cuba back then? Mouth: there is a little un-natural sweetness, otherwise liqueurs (pineapple) and several stewed vegetables that, I'm sure, weren't in there when this bottle was sold. OBE. Finish: medium, sweet, as if someone would have cooked peas and carrots in syrup. Comments: not the first time that I have the impression that whisky holds up much better in the bottle, even improves/further matures, than rum. But I could be wrong; I don't taste old bottles of rum very often.
SGP:640 - 70 points. |
Back to (relative) normality.. |
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Jamaican Rum 13 yo (46%, Rest & Be Thankful, Assemblage #01, 2022)
A blend that involved New Yarmouth 2005, Long Pond 2005, Clarendon 2007 and rum from Lluidas Vale. Right, from Worthy Park. Good feelings here and at 46% vol. we won't even need to add any waters. Colour: light gold. Nose: fresh, briney, olivey, rotting-banana-y and varnishy Jamaican rum for barbarians such as… ourselves. Mouth: just excellent. A no-brainer, marginally easier upper-middle-ester Jamaican, with all the aforementioned descriptors to be found on the palate too. Olives, capers, ripe bananas, liquorice, a drop of seawater… Finish: medium, fresh, salty, with olives and a touch of lemon marmalade. Comments: as great as any, now I've always been wondering if they were growing olive trees in Jamaica. I'm not sure I've ever heard a reggae song mentioning olives, have you?
SGP:562 - 88 points. |
Hey there was no Hampden in there, let' have an easy one and then call this a tasting session… |
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Hampden Estate 8 yo (46%, OB, Jamaica, +/-2023)
You may call this one a 'regular Hampden'. There's a lot of literature on the label, it is almost a dazibao. As for the main colour of that label, it does give it away, they do grow olives at Hampden! That's exactly what I was thinking… Colour: gold. Nose: relatively gentle, balanced, polished, with some fresh-mown grass, those olives indeed, a little fresh coriander and basil, bananas, just a few drops of seawater, drops of diesel oil, bits of leatherette, new electronics (just a small Chinese item from Wish's) and touches of wild garlic (bear). It's got all the essentials but it seems that they went for a gentler profile. Mouth: good arrival but no, after just two seconds I find it unexpectedly drying, acrid, very leafy, almost thin in a way, ashy… A feeling of carbon dust, ashes indeed, leaves, pine needles… It's bizarrely skimpy, so to speak. Finish: long but drying and ashy indeed, lacking body. Comments: something must have happened, I'd say no master blender (right, blender) would have composed this leafy rum under normal circumstances. I'll try to try it again from another bottle but for now, it's rather a disappointment, comrades, but of course Hampden remains a utter superstar in my book.
SGP:262 - 79 points. |
It's impossible to stop there, let's find something different, from the indies… |
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Enmore 28 yo 1994/2023 (51.8%, Distilia for Catawiki, Floral Rums Series, Victoria Amazonica, Guyana, 193 bottles)
This is a 'REV', so 'Rum Enmore Versailles', so from that famous wooden pot still when it was still at Enmore. I can't quite see what could go wrong this time… Colour: office coffee as in Netflix episodes taking place at NYPD. Nose: these Versailles are everything. Sublime pines (Douglas), old books, really old pinot noir and deep-smoked bacon. With water: bicycle inner tubes, firwood ashes, black cigars (maduro), raw high-cocoa chocolate, coffee beans, touch of camphor and eucalyptus. Mouth (neat): fig jam, smoked, plus cedarwood and Corinth raisins. Exceptional. With water: a tiny tad 'too much' now, with a wood that clearly took over, but there is an easy solution, just don't add any water and you'll be fine. Finish: very long, perfect when neat. Cancel water. Stunning salty liquorice, provided you like that. Comments: a little extreme, perhaps, but as long as you do not add any water, you're on Mount Olympus, reigning over the world. Well, more or less.
SGP:472 - 91 points. |
Hold on, didn't the old Cubans actually run the show today? |
Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far |
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August 19, 2023 |
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Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland
Two Highland Park
Here in Scotland it is 'Whisky Fringe' weekend, which is Royal Mile Whiskies' annual whisky festival which ties in with the Edinburgh Fringe. As such, time is short and so let's just simply do two pretty attractive Highland Parks and then… off to the Fringe! |
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Highland Park 1981/2011 (48.5%, Scott's Selection) 
Colour: straw. Nose: it's much shier than some other 1981 HPs I could try, on clay, wet rocks, sunflower oil and sandalwood. Perhaps a few hints of gorse flower and beach pebble too. Elegant, easy and charming, but also perhaps a little shy and simplistic too. Mouth: a little more weighty on the palate, still rather on the lighter side though with these quite chiselled and sharp mineral notes, delicate ointments, white flowers, orange peel and hints of citrus curds. A very gentle waxiness and soft coastal vibe emerges over time. Finish: medium, crisply cereal, a little coastal and nicely chalky. Comments: simple pleasures in this unassuming old HP that's very shy and comes across as a little younger than it is. One for general dramming with the hip flask or tumbler.
SGP: 462 - 86 points. |
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Highland Park 1968 'The Dragon' (49.2%, Robertson's Of Kirkwall, 1990s) 
Colour: deep reddish amber. Nose: sherry dominant, which is perfectly fine when the sherry is this sublime. All these very typical and beautiful old school characteristics all at once such as umami seasonings, black olive tapenade, walnut wine, cedar wood and cigar humidors along with many other tobacco impressions, salted dark chocolate and a wonderfully thick and damp earthiness. Delicate herbal peat and phenolics in the background. Mouth: big and stunningly salty. Full of salted liquorice, soy sauce, many more umami notes, resinous hardwoods, green walnut liqueur and tiny gamey and meaty touches too. A single, beautiful and rather emphatic whole. Finish: long, getting rather tarry and peppery now, some dried red berry fruits, more salty things including dark chocolate and liquorice again. Perhaps some treacle too. Stunning leathery, salty and earthy aftertaste! Comments: everything was as expected here. Not sure how clearly the Highland Park character comes through, but the sherry cask was exquisite and the power lies in the cumulative immensity of the whole whisky.
SGP: 563 - 93 points. |
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August 18, 2023 |
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Summer Duets
Today two Banff 1976
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Many of us were so obsessed with Ardbeg, Springbank, Port Ellen, or Bowmore, even Brora, that we didn't pay enough attention to these wonderful malts from distilleries that were hardly ever offered as official releases, like Glenugie, Glenlochy, or indeed Banff. Of course, we tasted them as often as possible, but we never truly fought to sample even more of them. And now, it's too late; only G&M and occasionally Signatory can still offer these perfect rarities from time to time. This is the case with the Banff from G&M that we are going to taste today, while, to our horror, we had no more untried sparring-partners left in our stock. Fortunately, we still had one that we had tasted before, but from a different bottle. Indeed, any excuse, as always… |
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Banff 17 yo 1976/1994 (60.5%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection)
Retrying this wee one, from another bottle. It's been excellent the first time, back in 2010, but it was a bit 'rocket-fueley', which may have changed after thirteen further years of bottle mellowing (I'm using 'bottle ageing' with caution these days – of course not, I'm joking). In truth, many of those very pale CAD AC from the 1990s were tough babies, and I've noticed that several have now improved. I mean, mellowed. Same with some Rare Malts, by the way, and don't get me started with closures being air-tight. Why do they all break as if they were soft cheese these days? Why do so many enthusiasts feel the need to order kilometres of parafilm every three days? Colour: straw. Nose: we'll it's still a bit violent, but there is this very complex, mineral kind of lemonness that cannot not make us think of St. Magdalene. Some bandages, some iodine, anti-rust paint, carbolineum, plaster, a little moisture, metal polish, and then zests and fruit peel, mainly apple peel. Not a gentle, 'tropical and topical' Banff this far. With water: wooh, it got much gentler, we're reminded of some apricot tarte, orange cake and just some good cider. Mouth (neat): very tight, full of green fruits, granny smith, raw rhubarb, a little capsicum, then olive oil and, indeed, some wonderful tart tropical fruits starting to find their way out. First fiddles, passion fruits and grapefruits! With water: perfect. I'm sure it improved over the years. Mojito, lime juice, olive oil, grape pip oil, plus this minerality, between chalk and aspirin tablets. Stewed rhubarb. Finish: a wonderful 17 + 29. 17 years in (refill) wood, 29 years in glass, and probably no light, it doesn't have 'the taste of light' or 'the taste of glass'. Notes of green bananas. Comments: I remember we used to find this series 'rather difficult'. We were just stupid.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |
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Banff 46 yo 1976/2023 (50.4%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection, The Recollection Series #2, refill sherry butt, cask #2887, 109 bottles)
This wonder came together with a Port Ellen and a Glen Mhor, which we'll try later if God lets us live. Same vintage, two refills, and a 17 + 29 vs. a 46 + 0, this should be interesting (if a little esoteric)… Colour: gold. Nose: subtle menthol and cut pine wood in the sun, mingled with crushed bananas and all things from a beehive, including honey of course, beeswax, pollen, and said pine wood. After all that classic overture, we'll find a little paraffin, touches of soot, a pinhead of metal polish and that carbolineum that we had already found in the previous one. There's a good slice of distillery character that's remained, but the long years have brought these adorable honeyed notes. I'm telling you, we're heading towards a draw. With water: cinnamon rolls, orange cake, tiny herbs from 'time' (not the magazine, ha), woodruff… Mouth (neat): perfect, rather creamy, with more bananas, oak spices and oils (propolis again, Indian mix with aniseed and caraway), and just many ripe orchard fruits, from apples to peaches. With water: wonderful sweet and sour notes, passion fruit, kiwis, a little tobacco, toffee apple, more stewed rhubarb… Finish: medium long, this time with nuts, pistachio, little orange biscuits, hints of cream eggs… Almonds and honey in the aftertaste, with this piney side that remains most pleasant. Comments: I have the impression that they bottled this one 'because it was ready' rather than 'before it was too late', as the oak was never really dominant. Beautiful old whisky, still fresh, just like, wait, let's find a singer from that era… Say Blondie? No, their first album came out in 1976!
SGP:561 - 91 points. |
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Banff Distillery |
| It was mothballed in 1983. Most buildings were demolished in the 1980s, while the last warehouse was destroyed in a fire on 1991. Relatively unnoticed twenty years ago, Banff has slowly become more 'cult' as stocks decreased and more pronounced tropical notes appeared in the refill versions. |
Check the index of all Banff we've tasted so far |
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August 17, 2023 |
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WF's Summer Duets
Today Auchentoshan
ex-bourbon |
Both bearing proper age statements and not the slightest mention of any various and diverse types of wood that would lead one to believe that we are in the workshop of a kind-hearted carpenter. Phew. |
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Auchentoshan 18 yo (43%, OB, +/-2023)
One of the brand's mottos is 'Challenging to say, easy to drink'. This 18 is fully ex-bourbon and to the question 'What gives whisky its colour?' their official website answers, 'Our careful and methodical maturing process over the course of 18 years' but it is indeed c*r*m*l*s*d (mit Farbstoff on German bottles). Having said that, we rather liked little Auchentoshan 18 last time we tried it, in 2017 (WF 82). Colour: gold. Nose: it's pretty dry and leafy, not that easy, with first some oak shavings and sawdust, and only then gummy bears and marshmallows, rooibos tea… But it remains drier than before and even a notch metallic (old tin box). Mouth: again, a little leafy and drying at first, then on cider apples, peel, allspice, ginger, turmeric… The distillate doesn't seem to have much to say, we're pretty far from the distillery's older expression, not to mention the fantastic sherried ones that they used to have… like twenty-five years ago. Remember those very singular diamond-shaped labels that used to set them apart? Finish: a little short, but better, fruitier, with some oranges. But the aftertaste remained rather leafy and tea-ish, a little bitter. Comments: I believe the indies are having the better ones these days, let's check that…
SGP:451 - 80 points. |
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Auchentoshan 24 yo 1998/2022 (54%, Asta Morris, Heritage, bourbon cask, cask #AM166, 164 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: its full of muesli, with bits of mangos, clementines and oranges inside. That's something that works, while it would then become very floral, with some ylang-ylang, roses, honeysuckle and wisteria. Auchentoshan as in Auchentoshan, I would say. With water: a rather perfect oranges and custard combo. Mouth (neat): a very unusual perfumy arrival, pretty hot. Bergamot and orange blossom water. Something by Dior, perhaps? (at random)… Then peach peal and patchouli. With water: there, Juicy Fruit and all-vitamin juice, fresh peach pulp, Bellini… And even a little mango sherbet, which I also find very Auchentoshan. Finish: medium, a little leafier, more peely… Cherry stem tea. Comments: very good and true to the distillate; this is where an official 18 should be in my book.
SGP: 651 - 89 points. |
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August 16, 2023 |
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Glenfarclas to the maximum
First a few either young or NAS expressions, which is kind of the same thing, we agree. Long-time no entry-level Glenfarclas on WF, we'll also try to add a few rarities to the end of this classic little tasting session. Perhaps not that 'little', we'll see what we can do…
(Magazine ad, 1976)
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Glenfarclas 10 yo (40%, OB, +/-2023)
We last tried the 10 in 2017 and found it really to our liking (WF 84). Colour: light gold. Nose: it really is a classic malty, chalky and porridgey whisky, close to the ingredients, with some yeast, barley and well-behaved oak. Goes on with ripe apples, as expected, apricots, croissants, and the feeling of being in a good neighbourhood bakery, very early in the morning. Mouth: good, fruity, with even more apples and cider, some white pepper upfront, scones and shortbread, speculoos, cakes… The maltiness keeps it afloat despite this low strength that has now really gone out of fashion almost everywhere in Whiskydom, and that would make this baby a tad teaish and cardboardy in the end. Finish: shortish but pleasantly caky and malty. Some oranges. More cider and white pepper in the aftertaste. Comments: perhaps not sheer poetry, but it does its job correctly, which this ten has been doing for years. As for those 40% vol…
SGP:451 - 82 points. |
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Glenfarclas 'Private Reserve 46th Anniversary' (46%, OB, France, 9,999 bottles, 2022)
It is not the Distillery's 46th anniversary, naturally, it's the length of the partnership with their importer, the house Mähler-Besse, co-owners of famous Margaux Château Palmer. Colour: full gold. Nose: a richer style, with more sherry, millionaire shortbread, something slightly basaltic, old walnuts, prunes, a few drops of armagnac, dark chocolate, touch of truffle and gunpowder, a little artichoke… It's getting more and more chocolaty over the minutes, very nice, a bit old-school. Mouth: very good, classic sherry, rather oloroso-y, that is to say on walnuts, tobacco and indeed chocolate. Golden Grahams and Ovaltine coming through as well, a little stout too… Finish: medium, roasted, malty. Brown toasts and more Ovaltine. Comments: I suppose they have not done any finishing in ex-Palmer barriques, but that may have been tempting. But does Glenfarclas still never do finishings, as was the case twenty years ago?
SGP:551 - 86 points. |
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Glenfarclas 2010/2022 'Christmas Edition' (46%, OB, 2022)
Aged in oloroso sherry. Aren't we a bit late once more? I'm noticing that they keep calling themselves 'a Highland'. Colour: full gold. Nose: very similar whisky, this one being just a notch nuttier and with more oranges. Perhaps…. We're extremely close, nonetheless. In cases like this one, the taster must be careful not to swap his/her glasses, or everything's ruined. Mouth: ditto. You would almost believe this was the same batch, but we won't complain, it's excellent young sherried Glenfarclas. Finish: perhaps a little more chocolate and fig jam? Comments: merry Christmas (what?)
SGP:551 – 86 points. |
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Glenfarclas 14 yo 'Oloroso Sherry Cask' (43.4%, OB, 2022)
I had never seen this baby before, but as always, Glenfarclas + Oloroso sounds cool. Colour: gold. Nose: this is different, a little lighter – while that's not only the lower strength – and more on cereals, cornflakes, maple syrup, granola, then indeed walnut wine, honey, rye bread, cinnamon rolls… So a sweeter, fruitier, more floral kind of maltiness while it remains very 'sherry'. Mouth: more oak impact here, more pepper and cinnamon, some drier tea-ness… There's something hot, chili-like, while the core remains fruity and rather jammy. You would say some fig jam flavoured with chilli sauce. Who is ready to give that a try? Please send us updates… Finish: medium, as spicy, with a feeling of walnut stain beyond all this chilli. Comments: a little unusual. Did they add one ex-Tabasco cask? Don't laugh, George Dickel did that kind of thing not too long ago.
SGP:461 - 84 points. |
Higher strengths please (and less chilli, if possible)… |
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Glenfarclas 'Heritage Cask Strength' (60%, OB, +/-2022)
What's the main difference between this baby and the famous '105'? We'll try to find out… This is a recent batch but they've been doing this expression for more than ten years I think. Colour: gold. Nose: same vein, just a tad more on rocks and tobacco, burnt caramel, choco malt… It is not overpowering. With water: simple, square, on malt and walnuts. Whiffs of fern in the background. Mouth (neat): rich, a tad flinty and vegetal at first (cabbage, eggplant), and certainly very peppery once more. It reminds me a bit of a brown chili beer that some young brewers are making here in our valley, when no one's watching. With water: no wait, it's actually rather sweeter, rather on cherries, kriek beer, Mon Chéri, chocolate, and rather a lot of cracked pepper, if not chilli this time. Finish: long, jammy and peppery. Chocolate, old boy's jam and pepper liqueur. Chilli is back in the aftertaste. Comments: it's pretty talkative, and not as rustic as I would have thought.
SGP:561 - 85 points. |
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Glenfarclas '105' (60%, OB, +/-2023)
Simply one of our favourites, while we're following this expression closely, like every two or three years. Colour: pale gold. Wasn't it darker, in the past? Nose: rather more on fresh malt, fresh fruit, earth and doughs, plus root vegetables aplenty. Artichokes and honey, turnips, moist wholegrain bread… So far, so nice. With water: touch of pencil shaving, bark, stout, some ashes… Mouth: hard to explain, I would say this 105 has got more Glenfarclasness than the 'Heritage'. Huge dark malt, dark honeys, cracked peppercorns, eggplants and Jerusalem artichokes, parsnips… Enough to make a wonderful gratin. Love this rusticity, always have, since the '104' (but we tried the latter later). With water: high-class hipflask malt, provided it's a solid silver flask. Or pure gold, why not. Everything's in its place, balance is perfect, power is there, we're happy as a gypsy at an international guitar show (or an amateur gardener at an ancient rose exhibition). Right, right. Finish: Comments: did they not further improve their 105? I think it got a little sweeter again, after some drier (yet excellent) recent batches.
SGP:651 - 88 points. |
Boy was that 105 loud and potent, I think we'll need a good single cask now… |
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Glenfarclas 15 yo 2001/2016 (58.2%, OB, for Asian Taste Buds Association, sherry, cask #2143)
They know and love their heavier sherries in Asia. I'm sure I've got some distant Asian ancestors too. Colour: red mahogany. Nose: sumptuous peonies, cedar shavings, blackberry jelly, armagnac, the moistest prunes, some hoisin sauce (there we go) and, first and foremost, a lot of cassis jelly, cream and liqueur. You could make royal kirs out of this one, just add a lot of Bollinger. With water: fig wine, umeshu, armagnac and 'vieille prune de Souillac'. You may check that out. Mouth (neat): extremely rich, thick, shock-full of chocolate and crème de cassis, plus clove and cracked pepper. With water: sameish. The 105 with more thicker sherry. Finish: very long, heavy-not-cloying, this time with more coffee and even a drop of salty chicken bouillon. Plays with your lips. Comments: one of those impeccable middle-aged heavily sherried Glenfarclas that would tend to fly to the loveliest parts of Asia. I know I'd love to be able to do that too.
SGP:661 - 88 points. |
Another heavier, older SC, perhaps… |
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Glenfarclas 29 yo 1992/2021 'Godzilla' (54.6%, OB for Whisky Mews, Hideo Yamaoka, Japan, 1st fill sherry butt, cask #2910, 541 bottles)
Our friend Hideo at the helm this time, what could go wrong? Colour: rich amber. Nose: totally classic, full of praline, milk chocolate, Camels and Luckies, figs, dried jujubes, dates, old cognac… I find it pretty lounge-y this far, ueber-classic in other words, and rather in the style of a famous Distillery in Craigellachie, although I know comparison isn't reason. With water: tiny herbs, tiny roots, tiny leaves, tiny flowers. Mouth (neat): it's incredible how close we are to 'that' Distillery. It's true that they've been proper competitors all along, haven't they. Figs, raisins, fruitcake, tiny mentholy touches, liquorice, soft earth, well-cured tobacco… With water: the most precious raisins popping out. Finish: not thaaaaat long but perfect, in all raisinness and with a little old sweet wine. Comments: a grand Ma… Glenfarclas. More Ryuichi Sakamoto (RIP) than Godzilla if you ask me, that is to say all elegance and refinement. Could be that the name 'Godzilla' had led us down the wrong track at the beginning, but that's just us being silly.
SGP:651 - 91 points. |
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Glenfarclas 1978/2022 (44.6%, OB, Family Casks, fourth-fill hogshead, cask #755, 84 bottles)
From the summer of 2022 release. Hurray, a fourth-fill hogshead! Did Queen Victoria herself do the first filling? Colour: Meursault (what?) Nose: immediately makes me think of an old 'B' from Dufftown, from similar or even older vintages. Sublime mirabelles, quinces and apricots, white flowers (acacia, woodruff), the noblest custard, some multi-floral meadow honey, and just 'a beehive in the midst of summer'. Terrific, pure, elegant, entrancing nose. Mouth: wait, isn't this baby either 43 or 44? Once more it's full of yellow fruits and flowers, honeys, nectars, beeswax, wrinkled old apples, sesame and pistachio halva, roasted sunflower seeds, then citrus (say citrons and bergamots). Finish: medium, incredibly fresh, very floral. Borage and edible pansies, I'd say, so obviously, flower nectar. The bees are right, they are always right. Comments: there's not only sherry in Glenfarclas' life. It was a like a beehive in my tasting glass, minus the stings – the glories of multiple refills!
SGP:651 - 92 points. |
This is really getting vertical… |
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Glenfarclas 15 yo 1967/1983 (70°proof, Averys of Bristol, 75cl)
Love it that the old label would tell us that this whisky 'was purchased by Averys in 1967 from the distillery at Ben Rinnes'. Maybe because they weren't having any iPhones, emails or MS-Excel sheets back then? Happy times, don't you think? Having said that we've only tried a Glenfarclas by Averys once, it was a smoky 1969 for the Corti Brothers in California. Great-not-grand in my book (WF 88). Colour: white wine. Nose: whiffs of old coins and toolbox at first, then stewed apples and a touch of cabbage (no sulphur though), then white chocolate, salty popcorn (no caramel), morels, humus, autumn leaves, white ham, cider and riesling, cranberries, grouse… Quite some OBE, I would suppose, but the core remained immaculate. Great vintages everywhere, those mid-late sixties. Mouth: oh, power was kept, there's this smoke, this saltiness, these bouillons and soups, some suet perhaps, soot for sure, all kinds of dried and candied fruits kept in some old tin boxes, then tiny liquoricy herbs, dill, fennel, aniseed, also watercress… Finish: not too long 'of course' but still very well alive, full of those small herbs, coated with old oils and waxes. Typical good OBE. Comments: assigning a score to an old whisky like this is a bit pretentious, as the emotional aspect plays a significant role. Let's try to remain somewhat neutral, if we may say so. It's like those old actresses who will remain beautiful forever.
SGP:341 - 90 points. |
I think it's time we have a very last one. Please… |
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Glenfarclas 21 yo (43%, OB, USA, 75cl, 1980s)
I think the reputation of these old official square-bottled versions is well-established. They used to be pretty easy to find, but today everybody knows that the juices can be utterly splendid, regardless of their ages. Probably late-1950s-early-1960s distillate here. Colour: deep gold. Nose: oh, great old chardonnay, mead, dried figs and cigars, with earths and leaves in the background. There's also a stunning waxiness (beeswax) and a little pine resin and cough syrup. It almost feels like they re-steeped the grist or draff in the wash before distillation – but who would do that and how? Did we mention small Turkish figs, by the way? Mouth: the smallest OBE (silver, chalk), then coffee, chocolate, sweet soups (caramelised onion), old triple-sec, marinade, more figs… It remained incredibly potent after all those years, if a little tertiary. Moves towards old rum at some point, which I find incredible, and even toward old Belgian trappiste beer, you know those that mature in the bottle. Finish: surely not the longest ever, but there is still a lot of energy and a beautiful definition. In short, dried figs. Comments: we shall probably adopt a conservative scoring approach once again, as we are facing another rather legendary old whisky. No, once more we won't care about its (very) minor flaws.
SGP:541 - 90 points. |
Eleven 'farclas, that's the maximum volume. I wasn't hoping we'd go this far, but I'm glad we did. |
(Thanks a lot Aaron/LMDW, Andy/whiskyprism and the MMs) |
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August 15, 2023 |
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Benromach officials vs. independent |
An independent Benromach is not something you find easily, except at Gordon & MacPhail back in the day, of course. But today, hooray, we have a new one! First, some very intriguing new official bottlings... Oh, by the way, please note that the third note will be my nineteen-thousandth for a whisky. On to the twentieth-thousandth, and then we'll see... |
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Benromach 2012/2023 'Air Dried Oak' (46%, OB, Contrasts, first fill)
The idea is to showcase different methods of drying the oak before making barrels, and their organoleptic effects. In this specific case, the planks were air-dried for 36 months, which seems to be the most traditional method in coopering for whisky. Naturally, this is first-fill 'virgin' oak. Colour: gold. Nose: well, you do feel the oak, its spices, especially curry powders, cinnamon, paprika, nutmeg, as well as a lot of pencil shavings. All this is certainly pretty different, but very pleasant too, while it seems to me that they've used some gentler distillate. Then we find the usual softer custard and caramel cream, crème brûlée and so on. Mouth: great fun, this is totally oak-driven, but the sweet spiciness is working extremely well. Bananas stewed in cinnamon sauce, with more nutmeg and curry. In other words, bananas flambéed in India (ha!) Finish: medium, all on sweet spices and some cedarwood that gives it a mentholy and piney profile in the end. Comments: not sure whether this was full maturing or matured in virgin oak for three years or a little more, but I'm rather fond of the results, even if they remain a tad 'too modern' for this traditionalist (*).
SGP:651 - 83 points. |
(*) Always remember what Mahler said, "Tradition is not the worship of ashes, but the preservation of fire." Mahler was an avant-gardist.
Update: according to our friend Arndt it was not Mahler, rather French politician Jean Jaurès (1859 – 1914) who said that. More or less... |
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Benromach 2012/2023 'Kiln Dried Oak' (46%, OB, Contrasts, first fill, 2023)
This time the oak was only air dried for 24 months, then kilned for a short period of time. Colour: gold, very faintly darker. Nose: close, but a tad fruitier and a little less on pencil shavings. I also find it a little more floral, with some jasmine, also blood oranges. I believe the differences should be even more obvious on the palate, let's see… Mouth: this kiln-dried Benromach anytime. More lemon and grapefruit, lemon marmalade, orange blossom honey, Thai coriander, lemongrass, cough drops, cracked pepper… Anytime, really, a no-brainer. Finish: you still feel a few wood shavings and a wee plankish side, but the 'Thai-style citrus' is always having the upper hand. Comments: of course, we remain in very similar styles, but in the end, this 'Kiln Dried' wins hands down in my opinion.
SGP:651 - 86 points. |
Of course, one could also see this experimentation as a way to demonstrate the enormous importance of oak in whisky making. But to me, it's self-evident, because obviously, if you put in a lot of wood, it will have a great influence, and if you add less, it will have less. All of this is very tautological. Let's have the indie… |
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Glen Mosset 10 yo 2013/2023 (54.2%, Maltbarn, bourbon, 135 bottles)
It is a single malt. I suppose this was refill bourbon, but the great folks at Maltbarn wouldn't tell (right, we didn't ask them anyway). As for the name 'Mosset', it could refer to the 'Burn of Mosset', in Forres, a tributary of the River Findhorn that feeds a pond named 'Sanquhar Pond', which was created in 1900 to supply cooling water to Benromach Distillery (thank you, The Moray Ways!) But naturally, that's no proof of anything… |
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Colour: straw. Nose: if this is not Benromach, it is extremely Benromachian, which is great news for sure. Some kinds of smoky oils, new leather, new electronics, speculoos, coal, fatter waxes, touches of suet, citrons (as we already found them in the officials), toolbox, silverware, fern, pinecones, charcoal… In truth the complexity here is amazing while we sure aren't far from the wonderful 'regular' Benromachs, such as the 10 yo 100°proof, which is outstanding – if you can find it. With water: some metallic mud and spent oils. Typical. Mouth (neat): immense young Benr… Mosset, with these few flaws that we love so much (this sooty/salty sourness, for example, winner in my book, possibly a flaw elsewhere). Superb citrus, mineral smoke, root vegetables, turnips and parsnips, oils… With water: fatter, tops, easier. Some caraway. Finish: long and fat and mineral. Comments: wait, unless 'Glen Mosset' would be a secret brand name owned by a certain distillery in Campbeltown, which according to the profile of this wee whisky, wouldn't be totally impossible. Right. My alley.
SGP:563 - 89 points. |
I hope we ruffled no feathers today, and so, on to my twentieth-thousandth whisky... |
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Best spirits Serge tried those weeks, 90+ points only
Banff 17 yo 1976/1994 (60.5%, Cadenhead, Authentic Collection)
Banff 46 yo 1976/2023 (50.4%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection, The Recollection Series #2, refill sherry butt, cask #2887, 109 bottles)
Burnside 30 yo 1989 (51.2%, Artful Dodger Whisky Collective, blended malt, refill bourbon barrel, cask #4555, 317 bottles)
Glenfarclas 21 yo (43%, OB, USA, 75cl, 1980s)
Glenfarclas 15 yo 1967/1983 (70°proof, Averys of Bristol, 75cl)
Glenfarclas 1978/2022 (44.6%, OB, Family Casks, fourth-fill hogshead, cask #755, 84 bottles)
Glenfarclas 29 yo 1992/2021 'Godzilla' (54.6%, OB for Whisky Mews, Hideo Yamaoka, Japan, 1st fill sherry butt, cask #2910, 541 bottles)
Mortlach 15 yo 1969/1984 (56.3%, Gordon & MacPhail, Connoisseurs Choice, Donini Italy, +/-1985)
Mortlach 16 yo 1988/2005 (57.9%, Duncan Taylor, Whisky Galore, sherry, cask #4743, 632 bottles)
Speyside Distillery 28 yo 1992/2021 (56.4%, House of MacDuff, Golden Cask, bourbon barrel, cask #CM275, 171 bottles)
Speyside Distillery 26 yo 1992/2019 (57.7%, House of MacDuff, HNWS Taiwan, Ex-South Africa sherry, cask #CM253, 216 bottles)
Classic of Islay (56.5%, Jack Wiebers for Van Wees, single malt, cask #502, 2022)
Cuban Rum 30 yo 1991/2021 (47.2%, Chapter 7, Cuba, 78 bottles)
Cuban Rum 50 yo 1971/2021 (46.7%, Chapter 7, Cuba, 99 bottles)
Enmore 28 yo 1994/2023 (51.8%, Distilia for Catawiki, Floral Rums Series, Victoria Amazonica, Guyana, 193 bottles)
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