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Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé!

November 6, 2019


Little duos, today old Dalmore

You may remember we had a bunch of indie Dalmore the other day, and that we had said we’d have some older officials soon. Now’s the time, Charlie…

Dalmore 35 yo (40%, OB, +/-2018)

Dalmore 35 yo (40%, OB, +/-2018) Four stars and a half
A much brandified 35, bottled at some cheapish 40% vol. and priced at 5,000€. Having set the tone here, I may now add that the old Dalmores can be totally flabbergasting – in my book, at least. BTW, who’s got the record now, as far as the ‘most expensive whisky in da world’ stunt is concerned? Dalmore or Macallan? It’s hard to keep track, is it not… Colour: deep gold. Nose: that’s the thing, they may be way too expensive, they may be a little infuriating as well, but these bottlings are usually superb, which is the case here. Fab tobaccos, flowers (jasmine and orange blossom), old dry wines – certainly some old Meursault, cross my heart – and this mentholy/camphory development that screams ‘class’. And then myriads of tiny putty-like aromas, no I won’t list them all; but I’ll mention chicken bouillons and Bovril. Mouth: sure 43 or 45 or 46% would have worked better, and indeed, you’ve got the feeling that something’s been slaughtered here, but these tobaccos and spicy herbs just do it – for a while. Sadly, the low strength makes the drying oak stand out after a minute or two, a shame. Finish: a little short, sadly, with notes of very old brandy de Jerez, only drier. Old walnuts are ruling the aftertaste. Comments: what do I do? It’s a fantastic whisky, but on the palate, the low strength just kills it after a short while. And yet, in its Baccarat decanter, it’s not just decoration whisky, is it!
SGP:461 - 88 points.
PS, forgot to say, the stag on the decanter is produced by Royal Warrant-holding Scottish silversmiths Hamilton & Inches (thanks for that, Master of Malts).

Dalmore 40 yo (42%, OB, 750 decanters, 2018)

Dalmore 40 yo (42%, OB, 750 decanters, 2018) Four stars and a half
This baby’s got some stuff to do with Gonzales Byass. Claro. Now they have it on Amazon(dot)boom, which I find pretty, how would I put this, vulgar? Inelegant? Disappointing? Plebeian? Rude? Unrefined? Or there, unDalmore? Not very luxury, that’s for sure. The extra-2% are welcome, though. And 7,800€, while the previous 40 was at, cough, cough, 1,500€. And that one was stunning (WF 92). We already had the 2017 edition of this newer 40, and this is the 2018. There. Colour: amber. Nose: well, this is stunning. Oranges of all kinds, macerated in the most wonderful old Cognacs, with added touches of ripe mangos and bananas. After a few minutes, notes of cherry-flavoured pipe tobacco, more mangos, the juiciest sultanas, Szechuan pepper, orange blossom water, and vetiver. The freshness here is impressive. Mouth: some would claim that there’s too much oak, and indeed there is a lot of oak, but you see, it’s some chocolaty oak – like 90% cocoa – and I Iove genuine chocolate. Other than that, there’s a lot of black tea, thin mints, prunes, and a rosemary/thyme combo that always works. Finish: short to medium, with notes of rosehip tea. A lot of cocoa in the aftertaste, as well as a vinous side that’s perhaps a tad unnecessary. Raisins, goji, cassis and strawberries. Comments: sure you ought to taste these with deference and respect. They are wonderful old whiskies, but on your tasting desk, they are at the mercy of any young Ben Nevis, Springbank or Clynelish.
SGP:561 - 89 points.

PS: not that you should obligatory care, but this stag too was produced by Royal Warrant-holding Scottish silversmiths Hamilton & Inches. Good to know!

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