
January 31, 2021

Don't we do rums?

Let's see what we have in the boxes. I believe we have a few Frenchies, for example… But let's rather do this randomly, as to any whisky enthusiast, rum ought to be fun and only fun. There's enough pain in whisky (jo-king).

Enmore 2006 'EHP' (40%, OB, Guyana, +/-2019)

Sure 40% vol. sound like shameless murder, come on El Dorado. Remember Enmore equals wooden column still, the last if its kind in operation. Colour: amber. Nose: lovely, rather old-school, in the sense that it's got this feeling of 'improved petroly molasses' that usually come with a metallic side. Whiffs of ylang-ylang, overripe bananas, and perhaps a little too much caramel. Tends to lose steam even on the nose, which doesn't bode well wrt the palate. Mouth: oh, no. I mean, it tastes like brandy de Jerez, or Malaga, but it's really weak, flabby, it even feels like a weak liqueur rather than full-flown rum. So, 25% vol? Notes of sugar syrup, coconut water, vanilla, all nasty things. Highly disappointing. Finish: very short, but it's highly forgettable too, so that's good timing. An unpleasant sweetness – they've probably mellowed it down – aka murdered – even before filling. Comments: the others in the series were disappointing, but this is frustrating. Do people have to pay for this flavoured sugared water? I mean, El Dorado, what's up? Very bad. The Port Mourant was not great, but much better.
SGP:720 - 50 points.

Rhum J.M. 'Jardin Fruité' (42%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2020)

Rhum J.M. 'Jardin Fruité' (42%, OB, Martinique, agricole, +/-2020)
As I understand it, this is some NAS blend done for mixologists, rather with a fruity profile as 'Jardin Fruité' means 'Fruity Garden' – but of course you knew that. So perhaps not a sipper, but you never know, J.M being a good house… Colour: amber. Nose: oh, lovely! We're between a rhum and a Canadian rye, I would say, and that seems to work. I'm finding soft cinnamony notes, rye indeed, touches of lavender, oranges, panettone, citron liqueur, chestnut honey… Well to anybody who would have composed this I say kudos. Unless the palate's a wreck… Mouth: hey, cool! I would have gone for 45% vol. instead, but other than that, this is a banana cake spread with heather honey, orange liqueur, cough syrup and cinnamon. Balsa wood. It's just a shame and a pity that it would then nosedive, just because of the low strength. That's frustrating, as such as solid composition needs a proper canvas I would say. Finish: so nice, so frustrating. Almost some kind of coitus interruptus, just because of the strength. Comments: fantastic blending work, and I mean it. Crank up the voltage and you'll come up with a star. I mean, Aerosmith rather than Donovan.
SGP:641 - 81 points.

Aerosmith?... Hold on, let's swim to Guadeloupe…

Longueteau 'Concerto' (47.2%, OB, Guadeloupe, batch 1, +/-2018)

This is obviously not about concerto the barley varietal, but it is about musical analogies, as they have symphonies, preludes, concertos and stuff. I say as long as there are no age statements, that's often all only brand masturbation (as they do in Cognac, ha-ha). Now let's be serious, Longueteau are highly reputed for their distillates (and consequently, for their white rums). Colour: reddish amber. Nose: you sure don't feel the 47% vol., as you'd rather get fudge and shortbread here, molasses, maple syrup, raisins, a little menthol... Some flowers too (lilac, violet) and some cigarettes and triple-sec, all cool but not very big for sure. I would call it 'Cointreau-y'. Mouth: ah there, power and drive! It's rather sweet and cake-y rum – it is Guadeloupe but it's neither Bellevue nor Bielle - with notes of brandy, raisins, orange cake, triple-sec (which is not sec at all, don't ask), gentian (Suze) and a tiny bouillony, meaty and herbal side. As if someone had added a drop of miso to the mix. Finish: medium, a little sweetish. Raisins. Comments: it's a sweet mix for sure. Good but probably a little too sweet for whisky lovers.
SGP:640 - 80 points.

Hey, let's fly to Barbados!

Foursquare 14 yo 'Nobiliary' (62%, OB, Barbados, bourbon, +/-2019)

Some say this is illegal. Other people claim that it wrecks your spectacles because of the high strength. That's all very opaque, but let's try it. I'm usually trying all Foursquares, but rather around 18 months after they come out, as I wouldn't like to interfere. You understand me? Colour: amber. Nose: painting varnish and drawing gum, Diesel oil, eggplants, 'at Ikea's', new plywood, mountain honey, maracuja ice-cream. I think I like this. With water: high-esters? High pot-still proportions? When olives and carbon dust chime in, that's always a good sign. Litres of Thai soup too, which would involve coconut, coriander, citronella, ginger… Mouth (neat): sweet Jesus, this is pretty perfect (varnish, acetone, dead animals, coconut) but boy is it strong. With water: excellent, honeyed and spicy, fermentary, appropriately varnishy, estery, phenolic… Finish: rather long but let's not exaggerate, this is neither Hampden nor Worthy Park. But frankly, quality's extremely high. Comments: Foursquare is usually a pretty gentle rum. I mean, it's not Bacardi, but it isn't Worthy Park Maximus either (Luca, don't). So we could say this is a firmer Foursquare.
SGP:562 - 90 points.

A last one, perhaps… Why not something funny…

Reimonenq 2020 'Rhum Agricole Dynamique' (50%, OB, Guadeloupe, agricole, 698 bottles, 2020)

Reimonenq 2020 'Rhum Agricole Dynamique' (50%, OB, Guadeloupe, agricole, 698 bottles, 2020)
I have to say I don't know much about Reimonenq in Sainte-Rose. Now this was matured on boats, apparently, a trick that many brands have used already. Sadly, they've chosen Port casks. Colour: salmony. Nose: rubber boots and Fanta. Typical, red wine – and Port even more so - may make your spirit rubbery. Geranium. Rather ugly nose. Mouth: terrible, fizzy, rubbery, with too many raisins too. This isn't excatly 'rum' in my opinion. Finish: medium, sweetish, raisiny and sour. Oak tannins and just the worst Ports in the aftertaste. Comments: it is fantastic to experiment, but when you fail, just disgorge your barrels and give it to the fish. Very poor 'rum' n my opinion, so sad for dear Guadeloupe and Reimonenq. Now of course they've got much better rums!
SGP:630 - 30 points.

What was that? Halt!

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far