
May 16, 2021

This is Sunday, let's have another wee bunch of rum

Since this is Sunday… Oh and let's start this with something crazy…

Arruco 'XO' (40%, OB, Spirit Drink, +/-2020)

Arruco 'XO' (40%, OB, Spirit Drink, +/-2020)
This is a blend of 70% Caribbean rum with 30% Armagnac. I don't know what to think. Perhaps just try it? And is it that different from someone finishing some rum in an unrinsed (if not re-moistened) Armagnac cask? So let's keep an open mind… Colour: gold. Nose: I get no rum and I get no Armagnac; I get something else. Some verbena, for example, some Bénédictine, certainly notes of that funny thing I tried the other day, Falernum. Beets, genepy, celeriac, fennel seeds, almond milk, a touch of grenadine… I do like this nose, even if it noses 'sweet'. Mouth: it is sweet. But the concoction worked, with pretty much the same flavours, with perhaps an emphasis on caraway. I'm reminded of some aquavit. Also pineapples, oranges and raisins I would say, a drop of crème de menthe… Finish: medium, sweet and herbal. Cointreau. Comments: there's a recipe behind this, it is not just a blend of rum with Armagnac. Not quite my kind of drink but I enjoy the fact that you do not immediately feel the need to reach for the ice bucket. In fact, I would quaff this.
SGP:750 - 80 points.

Another one that's seen some French brandy in its life…

Maison La Mauny 2015/2019 'E15' (62.8%, Excellence Rhum, La Martinique)

Maison La Mauny 2015/2019 'E15' (62.8%, Excellence Rhum, La Martinique)
This fierce baby matured in a Cognac cask. This should be agricole but I don't think it says so. Colour: amber. Nose: sure it is a little hot but you do already feel some cassata and panettone, fresh ginger cookies, quite a lot of liquorice, maple syrup, and some overripe bananas. Whiffs of violets or even ylang-ylang. With water: espresso popping out, butterscotch, vesou, black nougat, perhaps even roasted peanuts… It is a fantastic nose, really. Mouth (neat): thick, creamy, pretty fantastic too. Spices and herbs on a bed of pineapple and banana. Funny how it responds to the Arruco, in a much drier manner. Dill, caraway and fennel, ideas of incense perhaps, and certainly a lot of cane juice. Or cane honey. With water: do I detect rye? We're not that far from some thick young American rye whisky. Buckwheat as well, more caraway, nutmeg, cinnamon mints… Finish: long, spicy, superbly dry and earthy, rather more on green liquorice. Perhaps a little rooibos tea in the aftertaste. Comments: pretty amazing and at almost 63%, you've got more in the bottle (that's lame, S.) This will also compensate for the rather poor old La Mauny 5 that we tried last week.
SGP:671 - 89 points.

Let's just swim to a little island close to Guadeloupe…

Bielle 2012/2019 'YQM' (59.2%, Excellence Rhum, Marie-Galante, agricole)

Bielle 2012/2019 'YQM' (59.2%, Excellence Rhum, Marie-Galante, agricole)
Integrally aged in some 'prestigious' Sauternes barrique. My monies on Yquem then, Bielle being 1er Grand Cru at château Whiskyfun anyway. Nah, sure the acronym 'YQM' gave it away. Colour: double gold, as they say at Awards. Nose: rather bizarrely, its rather shier than the La Mauny, with some fresh pinewood, perhaps, some earth, perhaps one or two mushrooms… Could be that it really needs water. Let's see… With water: herbal. Hay, stewed rhubarb, white peaches, with just a touch of tar that would remind us that this is Bielle. Some artichokes too and whiffs of new rubber boots. That's well Bielle. Mouth (neat): it is not totally different from the La Mauny, I am sorry to say. I know I 'should' find many differences, but I shan't push this. Some bergamots, for sure. With water: there, bergamots indeed, orange blossom water, lemongrass, apricots (Sauternes?) and aniseed… Finish: pretty, on the same notes, more or less. Pastis in the aftertaste (what?) plus that discreet petroly side. Comments: brilliant but I'm afraid I liked the La Mauny even better. That La Mauny was something else.
SGP:562 - 88 points.

This is really a great house, let's have one more for them, if you don't mind…

Chairman's Reserve 20 yo 2000/2020 (65.1%, OB for Old Brothers and Excellence Rhum, St. Lucia, bourbon, cask #922000, 234 bottles)

Chairman's Reserve 20 yo 2000/2020 (65.1%, OB for Old Brothers and Excellence Rhum, St. Lucia, bourbon, cask #922000, 234 bottles)
This baby from the John Dore 1 still. One day, I'll have to find out about what that means, really, I'm more familiar with John Deere (tell me about a spirit blogger!) Seriously, it is a fairly new small pot still that takes both molasses-based and ex-cane juice wash. So this is 'batch', or 'discontinuous' rum… Colour: full amber. Nose: a lot of varnish, acetone, even a little ammonia, paint thinner, black olives, balsamic vinegar… Mind you, 65%! With water: I find this rather sublime. Every Chairman's Reserve I'm trying is even better than the previous one. Fantastic liquorice wood, Meursault (yep), olives, a little varnish remaining, sour apples, a little umami, fermenting plums… Or there, umeshu. Fantastic nose. Mouth (neat): love it but boy is it strong! That black tea that you forgot in the teapot… last week. The sourest beers, very sour cherries too, plywood juice… Nutshell: water is obligatory. With water: and bravo! Tight and spicy, on coriander, cumin, liquorice, some tar, a feeling of old oloroso, walnuts… Finish: tar! I've just tried a flight of old Ardbegs again (not published yet) and it's true that Ardbeg in dark oloroso is fairly close to this. Kind of. Comments: in this context you either embrace or resist. We embrace.
SGP:363 - 90 points.

I think we need an ace or this high-echelon session will turn badly. Not many options left…

Uitvlugt 27 yo 1993/2021 (47.6%, RumSponge, Guyana, barrel, 174 bottles)

The label here is really good and reminds us that the Dutch, especially E&A Scheer, have been instrumental in the rise of rum (whatever those cool guys on the islands say). What's more this is described as 'early landed' rum, which I find particularly smart as well. I would just clarify that the word 'godverdamme', which means 'jings' according to this label, is pretty much Alsatian too. As we say here, gottverdammi! Colour: straw. Nose: Uitvlugt is rum of malt whisky quality. I mean, you could almost classify this as 'sugarcane whisky'. Brine, sardines and anchovies, lemon juice, sour wine, touch of vanilla, touch or paprika, touch of turmeric, touch of sawdust, with even a very tiny bit of garlic and even wild bear's garlic. This sour brine is what makes Uitvlugt's style in my book. A style that I cherish. Mouth: mirroring the nose, word-for-word. What I particularly like in older Uitvlugt is that some tiny notes of 'unusual' vegetables are slowly becoming clear. For example, Brussels sprouts, savoy cabbage, or eggplants… All that being properly salted and peppered, of course. A little coffee too. Rather fascinating if you give this wee spirit a good chunk of your time. It grows on you. Finish: long and salty. Apologies, Sponge, I'm finding notes of tinned English gherkins now. Comments: for a few minutes I had feared it would have gone over the hill. It was just a wee tad slow (or I was too impatient). Oh and no water is needed, which will save the planet as we all know.
SGP:463 - 90 points.

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far