Summer Duets Today Bois of Cognac


June 27, 2021

	Summer Duets Today Bois of Cognac
	Kind of. I mean, the two Grande Champagne by Grosperrin that we've had last week had been just fabulous, so I thought we could rather try some younger Cognacs from some lesser appellations by them, both from 1990. Mind you, these aren't that common…

Bois Ordinaire N°90 'Oléron' (46.2%, Jean Grosperrin, L 817, magnum, +/-2021)

Bois Ordinaire N°90 'Oléron' (46.2%, Jean Grosperrin, L 817, magnum, +/-2021)
Great. Oléron's an island in the West of Cognac, so in a way, Cognac's Islay. Except that it hasn't got such a high reputation and to be honest and just like the île de Ré, where they grow vines for Cognac too, it hasn't got any reputation at all. But this is Grosperrin, right… Colour: gold. Nose: I love it already. We're closer to malt whisky, with rather more vanilla at first, then gentle oils (sunflower, grape pips), then the usual peaches, a wee touch of rubber (new wellies), dandelions, mirabelles, white chocolate, cornflakes, popcorn, nougat… Indeed this is dangerously sexy and I wouldn't have bottled this in magnums without an explicit warning sign. After fifteen minutes, a dollop of soy sauce. Mouth: excellent, if a tad rough and rustic. Lees, stems, a drop of kirsch and one of plum eau-de-vie (damsons), a grassy side, young 'calva'… It's getting a little hot, perhaps, but this really works. Maybe chilled on smoked salmon or even oysters? Finish: rather long, still rustic, but that's something we rather crave. A little burnt sugar. Comments: it is, indeed, a tad 'ordinary' but rather in the better sense of that word. No-fuss Cognac, perhaps? What's great too is that it hasn't been caramelised and boiseed up to its ears. Very good.
SGP:561 - 86 points.

Fins Bois 1990 (49%, Grosperrin, L 838, 2021)

Fins Bois 1990 (49%, Grosperrin, L 838, 2021)
Not sure at all this is the proper label, but seriously, only whisky people care about labels these days. Some will soon start to sell empty bottles sporting shiny artsy labels. Just pour tea. Some kinds of pre-NFTs if you like. So, Fins Bois, that's supposed to be better than Bois Ordinaires. I mean, in the old books… Colour: gold. Nose: something Asian in this one, I'm thinking garam masala and Thai coconut and coriander sauce. But after that, it's all on classic raisins, ripe plums, praline, rum, molasses, liquorice… It is not very complicated on the nose, but everything's in place. Mouth: less rustic than the Oléron, and rather more on varnish and polishes, mint, liquorice, herbs (a feeling of chartreuse, really), bourbon once again… Let's try to add a drop of water, for the sake of research… With water: no real changes, it remains some very good youngish (boy isn't it 30 already?) Cognac of excellent style and freshness, with a hint of jasmine tea and marmalade. Finish: rather long, rather fresh, very natural, pretty moreish. Comments: another one that's a little dangerous since you could quaff litres without noticing. Like, while listening to a speech by BoJo or Macron. Excuse me? Yeah or Mrs Merkel. Now I'm afraid to say that I just couldn't tell you which one I like best, between, the Fins Bois and the Bois Ordinaire. I'm ordinaire myself anyway and both are excellent, if not outtadisworld.
SGP:551 - 86 points.

Once again we 've got a wee bonus…

Maison Prunier 1979/2021 (53.7%, The Whisky Jury, Petite Champagne, 570 bottles)

Maison Prunier 1979/2021 (53.7%, The Whisky Jury, Petite Champagne, 570 bottles)
In Cognac time, 1979 is a recent vintage. I mean, Blondie, Talking Heads, the Voidoids, Television… No wait, Television stopped in 1978 and did it again only fifteen years later. Anyway, Prunier seem to be getting some traction within whisky circles these days, I believe we have to catch up… Now this is 'Maison Prunier', not 'Prunier', so it could be reconditioned old stock from the Parisian restaurant instead of Cognac from the house Prunier in the Cognac region. Are you follow me? Good for you, I'm not even sure I understand all this myself. Colour: gold. Nose: oh tropical fruits, aromatic herbs (verbena in majesty, love that) and big juicy peaches and oranges. Touches of Armenian incense paper. Rather a little very sublime, as Dadaists would have said. With water: menthol, liquorice wood, cider apples, perhaps a thin slice of banana (yep), sultanas, beeswax, rubbed spearmint… Rather sublime, akin to a great old malt whisky. Say very old Tomintoul (what?) Mouth (neat): immediate, immaculate fruitiness with astounding herbal backbone. Grapefruits, peaches, rhubarb, white asparagus (season's over, sob sob sob), a drop of maraschino. Instant pleasures here. With water: water enhances the citrusy side and would bring more medicinal herbs. More verbena, otherwise, dill and fennel. A funny coastal side too; 'nosing kelp'. Finish: long, unusually citrusy for Cognac. Oranges, liquorice, crystalised tangerines, menthol, and even a wee maltiness… White pepper. Comments: very impressive, really. Do they now grow grapes in Sutherland? I mean, were they doing that back in 1979 (while listening to Nazareth)?
SGP:661 - 91 points.

Check the index of all Cognac we've tasted so far