Today rums


August 1, 2021

	Summer Duets Today rums (perhaps more than a duet)
	Whisky people seem to like rum more and more, but indeed there is rum and rum (Ed: was that really necessary, S.?)

Rhum J.M 21 yo 1999/2020 (43.15%, OB, for Excellence Rhum and Old Brothers, Martinique, 369 bottles)

Said to be the oldest J.M ever bottled, let us respect this. Colour: amber. Nose: may feel a tad fragile, with these touches of old sawdust and old marmalades plus raisins 'from the old tin box'; now these whiffs of incense and hibiscus and roses do work well. Has this one lost its powers? Only the palate will tell, the nose being a little hard to grasp (to this whisky drinker)… Mouth: it is an older rum, with resins from the wood, liquorice, many elements ending with '-ol', stewed mangos and papayas, a wee brandy-like side (very Jerez, raisins and pine), some sour fruits (cherries), some salt… You do feel that it's nearing the end of its life, but just like great painters or musicians, it's still got beautiful things to say. Finish: medium, salty, intellectual. Raisins in rum. Comments: I wrote 'intellectual' because indeed, it would need your understanding. Remember, according to Caribbean distillers, 21 years in the Caribbean equals at least five centuries in Europe. If not six. As consequence, tropical years are becoming very costly!
SGP:651 - 84 points.

Perhaps another J.M…

Rhum J.M 2007 (42.9%, OB, Martinique, +/-2018)

Colour: red amber. Nose: this is light, very floral, awesome and lovely, and as they used to say in the 20th century, rather feminine. Curious notes of fermenting barley, then squeezed orange, Timut pepper, citrusy hops, ylang-ylang, peonies… This is all very elegant, aromatic, vibrant, floral… Mouth: with rum too (and rhum), timing is everything. This has more knack, a better definition, and a brighter profile than that of the old 1999. I'm afraid it'll beat that one fair and square. Blood oranges, cinnamon, and something reminiscent of cedar wood. Smoking a Romeo & Julietta Cedros de Luxe #3, as I seem to remember them. Finish: medium, superb, balanced, earthy, spicy and fruity. Once again, anything reminiscent of incense is running the show. Comments: I'm a fan here, this in a large 'fishbowl' glass while watching something smart on Netflix, why not. BY the way, have I mentioned that I there were bags of raisins too in there?
SGP:651 - 87 points.

Let us go on for a little while…

New Yarmouth 1994/2021 (68.7%, The Colours of Rum, N°1, Jamaica, cask # 435081, 258 bottles)

This one by our Polish friends at Wealth Solutions. That wealth needs solutions is obvious in these greedy times, the fact that rum's one of those solutions remains to be fact-proofed. Nasdrovia! By the way, New Yarmouth is Appleton. Colour: amber. Nose: it is a little strong (ha, cough…) but it seems that sugarcane and crushed sesame are running the show this far. With water: tons of pencil shavings, so lead, coal and cedar wood, then ham and macadamia nuts. A feeling of 'bourbon', not a lot of complexities, but balance is perfect at +/-45% vol. Mouth (neat): hot, leafy, brilliant. Very brilliant, actually, even at 68.7%. With water: yeah there, this works a treat, with oranges and just all tropical fruits you could think of, over a bed of traditional oak spices (cinnamon, really) and more oranges. Finish: long, the body getting a tad thin now despite the heavyish strength. Comments: same overall quality as that of the J.M 2007, I would say. Very different from the high-ester rasta rums such as WP, Hamden or Monymusk.
SGP:651 - 87 points.

Waterfalls 2013/2021 'MCPA' (53.6%, Barikenn, Mauritius, 260 bottles)

Most rums from Maurice/Mauritius I could try till this very day have been overly sweet and just cloying. But everything changes… Colour: gold. Nose: sulphury rum, that's new. Old guns, struck matches, black truffles… It's just that I rather enjoy this combo, provided it won't go too far, let's see… with water: all on gingerbread, with much less 'truffles'. Mouth (neat): ha, some smoked gingerbread with lemongrass, coal tar, rubber and thyme. A little unlikely, perhaps, but water may wave its magic… With water: indeed, this has become excellent, spicy, not too 'Mauritian', going rather towards malt whisky. Finish: long and spicy. Rhubarb and curry (yep). Comments: this is rum for outlaws, people who ride Guzzi or BSA, who drive British cars, who drink German beers, who quaff Australian syrah or Californian merlot… I'm sure you see what I mean: us, because we have no borders!!!
SGP:372 - 84 points.

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far