
May 25, 2021

Another briefcase of Clynelish

It was so moving to watch the reopening of Brora the other day, we've almost forgotten that a lot of work has been done at Clynelish too. After all, both whiskies have got the same father – or rather mother, the old Clynelish Distillery! Let's have a trio of 'new' Clynelishes…

Clynelish 22 yo 1997/2020 'Tropical scented Candle' (49.8%, Wemyss Malts, hogshead, 236 bottles)

That's a name that seems to be very accurate. Do we still need to try the whisky then? Colour: gold. Nose: looks like these batches have become perfect at 20+ years of age. Stunning citrus, waxes, then earths and polishes. Huge quinces too, otherwise oranges, citrons, pink grapefruits, and beeswax, hand cream, proper vanilla pods, putty, marzipan… This is the worst you could do when starting a session, I mean, having a winner as #1. Mouth: a little drying at first, with a little tea and oak, but it would then unfold on the expected waxes, citrus, and cakes. Perhaps is it getting a little fatter and rounder than I had hoped, with a little 'too much' vanilla and sweetness, but I am quibbling for nothing. Oily mouthfeel. Otherwise oranges, tangerines, elderberries, quinces, guavas, sweeter apples… And probably a tiny touch of salt as well as umami sauce. Finish: hold on, quite some salt! And some honey. Comments: classic and classy Clynelish. Have I not already tried this one?
SGP:551 – 90 points.

Clynelish 24 yo 1996/2020 (54.9%, Whisky Nerds, bourbon hogshead, cask #WN001, 282 bottles)

Clynelish 24 yo 1996/2020 (54.9%, Whisky Nerds, bourbon hogshead, cask #WN001, 282 bottles)
Colour: straw. Nose: this one's twenty times tighter, more vertical, mineral, chalky, earthy, bready… But there's also a large bag of overripe apples from last year, and some candlewax, naturally. With water: fresh panettone and angel hair. Fresh bread and orange blossom, plus beeswax. Mouth (neat): good, after twenty to twenty-five years, these vintages have become perfect, characterful aged spirits, with a waxiness that became just huge. Sure it was there right from the start, but it's now really become massive, as if it had grown in the barrels (after having grown in the receiver), like a blob. Right, physarum polycephalum. With water: a tad tighter, more on dough and ale. Finish: long, perhaps a wee tad oaky but that's just nothing. Zests in the aftertaste. Comments: same ballpark, just a tad less round and civilised than the Wemyss.
SGP:451 - 90 points.

Clynelish 2010/2021 (59.7%, The Single Malts of Scotland, Asia-Pacific exclusive, cask #800204)

Clynelish 2010/2021 (59.7%, The Single Malts of Scotland, Asia-Pacific exclusive, cask #800204)
I'm afraid we do not have a picture yet. These vintages are great but I tend to believe that they're a little too young, and that the superb waxiness that we all enjoy so much needs a few more years to become really prominent. Just a gut feeling… Colour: white wine. Nose: well, not quite, this is waxy, what didn't come through yet is rather some rounded citrus, I would say. Bread, fresh scones, marshmallows, wool and grist, paraffin, 'sweet' candles… but remember, almost 60% vol. With water: sameish plus barley water, malt, sweet maize bread, brioche… Mouth (neat): tart lemons and rhubarb plus chalk and leaven bread. Seems to work but then again, 60% vol. With water: you bet it works. Lemons, chalk, cinchona, paraffin… Finish: long, on the same kinds of notes. Paraffin, dough, citrus… Comments: young and phat, thick, oily whisky, and yet it's got this refreshing side. Major style today.
SGP:552 - 87 points.

Perhaps a little bonus? A Brora next door?

Brora 26 yo 1976/2002 (46%, Douglas McGibbon, Provenance, Winter/Autumn)

This used to be Douglas Laing's 'budget' range as far as single malts were concerned. And yes they were having Brora… Colour: pale white wine. Nose: 1976 is not a common vintage at Brora, but this is fantastically medicinal. I had tried these batches but I'm afraid I had forgotten about then, until we did a wee online tasting with Angus, a few weeks ago. Chalk and camphor, with drops of eucalyptus essence and some sour breads. Süweck, we say here. Sourdough with some eucalyptus inside, something animal (some cheese, perhaps?) and whey. Very unusual, very beautiful. Mouth: high-tension doughy and chalky smoke, with some kinds of pine-y ashes and rubbery breads. That's the harder part, rubber's not always easy to handle. Finish: long, with more grasses, also more smoky wax, and always this chalkiness. Sucking lambswool with a little hard caramel. Comments: it's a pretty smoky 1976. Not that I've tried dozens, but this is a good surprise, with clear echoes of Old Clynelish.
SGP:366 - 90 points.