Armagnac is back on the tasting desk


September 19, 2021

Armagnac is back on the tasting desk

Croix de Salles

'Christmas Hen'
1920s, the années folles, 'saucy' little advert
for armagnac La Croix de Salles (Dartigalongue)

This not only because in 'armagnac', there's 'maniac'. I mean, phonetically. I'm noticing that armagnac, as well as artisan or small-batch cognac, keeps attracting whisky enthusiasts, and I'm sure there's room for much more, especially for products that have been well-aged as new whisky distillers do not have any, by definition, while old malts will now really cost you an arm if not worse. Yes, that.

J. de Malliac 'vsop' (40%, OB, armagnac, +/-1990)

The house de Malliac is located in Montréal. I mean Montréal-du-Gers, obviously. Another old bottle I used to have in the stash, sporting a proper traditional basquaise shape, a.k.a. 'the tennis racket'. Sadly less and less houses are using these, or only for their entry-level ranges. Colour: gold with copper tones. Nose: old-school entry-level armagnac indeed, feeling a little sauced-up with honey or any other stuff they were having in the 'kitchens' back then. Other than that, raisins and a wee vinous side, rather around pineau des Charentes (with apologies to our friends in the Cognac region). Mouth: really sweet, almost liqueury, not too bad but it doesn't feel natural by today's standards. Triple-sec and more pineau, fortified grape juice, figs, prunes… Finish: medium, a little cloying because of the unnatural sweetness. Sweet muscat wine and coffee in the aftertaste. Kitchen coffee. Comments: kind of acceptable because of its clean side but other than that, it' rather doped-up old-style armagnac, as some rum brands still do.
SGP:740 - 68 points.

Aurian 'A25' (45.9%, OB, armagnac, 2021)

All armagnacs in this new vatting are at least 25 years old. They've used stone for their stopper, which I find much more elegant than plastic and posher that wood that doesn't hold anything on the middle run. The house Aurian in Condom has been recently revived and we could try some very good juices already. Colour: full gold. Nose: lovely touches of cedarwood and hibiscus at first, a brand new 50-box of Turkish delights, some curious touches of viognier, then a classic blend of preserved peaches, heather honey, apricots and wisteria, with wee whiffs of fresh rubbed mint leaves. That's all pretty elegant and yet relatively dense. Mouth: creamy, rather singular, starting with some kind of creamy oak (cigars, cloves) and a feeling of oak-aged marc, which is extremely pleasant once you get past the surprise. Rather a lot of black Wulong tea, more cigars, some coffee, dried apricots, black currents (Smyrna), almond cream… Finish: long, pretty dry, on more oak and tobacco, walnuts, with an unusual fruitiness in the end. Say blood oranges. Comments: the better side of the oakier style. A singular armagnac indeed, I'm fond of it.
SGP:362 - 86 points.

Delord 1997/2021 (50%, Bottles & Legends, Bas-armagnac)

We're still in the Gers, in Lannepax this time. This one was selected for Belgium, while we all know that our friends over there are particularly fond of French brandy. Colour: deep gold. Nose: wham! Coffee, marmalade, turpentine, cappuccino and molasses. Pretty heady armagnac, with developing whiffs of rose petals, ylang-ylang and peonies. Rather an aromatic bomb, shall we say. With water: moves towards sorrel soup, ham, lovage, marrow, chicken soup – right, rather goose. Mouth (neat): terrifyingly heavy, rich, and exactly armagnac, in the sense that it's absolutely not cognac. I know what I'm trying to say. More molasses - you would almost believe this is an old Port Mourant - prune juice, heavy chestnut honey, and once again touches or roses. Rose petal confit, a thing they make in Provence but try to avoid the ones they make for tourists. With water: unusual and pretty sublime. Some tighter oak in the style of the Aurian, some menthol cigarettes (a feeling of -), high-end black tea, really a lot of bitter chocolate… Finish: and naturally, coffee and Cointreau in the aftertaste. Perhaps also artichokes. Gets even tighter and rustic. As I said, armagnac. Comments: very highly recommended, this is pure armagnacness in my little book.
SGP:561 - 90 points.

Let's try another Delord since we're in Lannepax (so to speak… if only… sob…)

Delord 'Création N° 11' (43.8%, OB, Bas-armagnac, 1158 bottles, 2020)

This is a blend of 2003, 1995 and 1983. Colour: amber. Nose: a tiny-wee bit of soap at first nosing, not something we never experienced with brandies, then a rather wonderful composition that would have involved preserved apricots, honey and dandelions. The soap's gone, we are happy. Mouth: warning, this baby goes down a little too well (as we could realise at my company's latest party), even if it's carrying its rusticity like a flag. I'm often mentioning Jaffa cakes but this time it's ten kilograms of Jaffa cakes. Sponge cake, chocolate and orange jam. Tends to get a little oaky having said that, I'm afraid the Belgian 1997 was brighter. Belgium, we need talking. Finish: long, a little bit oaky, but still rather delightful. Some menthol in the aftertaste, that too isn't unseen in good brandies. Comments: I should have had this one before the 1997. When do we talk, Belgium?
SGP:561 - 87 points.

A little more power, by Aurian this time…

Aurian 'XXO Réserve Spéciale' (60.4%, OB, Armagnac, 2020)

Aurian 'XXO Réserve Spéciale' (60.4%, OB, Armagnac, 2020)
This pretty rare baby was bottled in September last year. What's particularly rare is the strength of 60.4% vol. since armagnac is usually filled (entonné) at anywhere between 52 and 60% vol. Colour: red amber. Nose: terpenes and varnishes at first, which is perfectly normal at this strength – and which we enjoy anyway – then rather sublime whiffs of peaches stewed in honey sauce, as well as cedar and sandal woods. Even a little incense ala Yamazaki. With water: no, ala old Karuizawa, I double-super-swear on the tail of Whiskyfun's current First Mouser, named Soba. Believe me, Soba is safe. Lovely pipe tobacco, earth, umami, prunes (after all this is armagnac). Mouth (neat): it doesn't even really burn, but this is one hefty spirit. Echoes of burnt rubber (tyre) and old Pinot Noir, which we can only applaud. But it is strong… With water: excellent balance between oak spices (bordering coffee dregs in this case) and brighter blood oranges, with some chocolate and more coffee. Perhaps not quite as flabbergasting as on the nose but we keep flying pretty high. Finish: very long, with herbs now, Thai basil, lovage, fresh coriander… Probably more robust and rustic, as almost always with armagnac. Comments: top class punchy armagnac and yeah, really, Karuizawa on the nose.
SGP:462 - 90 points.

Let's go on…

Dartigalongue 2002 (46%, OB, Bas-armagnac, cask #436, 445 bottles, +/-2020?)

It is absolutely fabulous that distillers everywhere in France would start to do proper single casks, thus vintage bottlings, but pst, all this would be even more perfect with the mention of when it was bottled (the year is fine). In twenty years' time, if God lets us live, we won't remember whether this was a 10, à 20, a 30 or a 40 years old. Just saying… Colour: red amber. Nose: rather rounder, with peaches again, also fresh mint, heather honey, cedarwood, well taken care of humidor, and few notes of rhum agricole, which is good news. A little Spanish ham as well, and perhaps hints of strawberries. Mouth: this is rather a palate armagnac I believe, meaning that its really ridden with ripe fruits, various honeys, and a few bonbons (violet bonbons – nothing to do with Parma Violets). Apricot jam, fig jam, a touch of liquorice… All that is perfect. Finish: medium, fresh. A drop of gewurztraminer, pardon my Alsatian. Turkish delights, rose jam, liquorice allsorts… Comments: I had no doubts this would be excellent.
SGP:641 - 89 points.

Dartigalongue 1988 (45%, OB, Bas-armagnac, cask #446, 492 bottles, +/-2020?)

High hopes. Colour: red amber. Nose: a little shier and more austere than the boisterous 2002, with even more cedar and sandal woods, certainly more tobacco, unexpected mineral notes (crushed slate) and then a little cough medicine, eucalyptus, a little camphor becoming clear, old barrels, or just 'visiting an old chai in the Gers'. We need do that soon. Mouth: oh, much more fruits, this is almost a rich man's sangria, with many oranges, cinnamon, star anise, liquorice, well-frozen prunella (sloe), rancio wine, and perhaps drops of very old sweet Malaga. That's right, Pedro. Finish: rather long, jammy, with some raw chocolate and some coffee, walnut wine, and just a little black Wulong in the aftertaste. Hint of tar. A lot of liquorice in the retro. Comments: I like both 2002 and the 1988 the same, they're both superb in their own ways.
SGP:561 - 89 points.

I have to say one feels well at Dartigalongue, so let's simply go on for a wee while (vertically, of course)…

Dartigalongue 1975 (44%, OB, Bas-armagnac, cask #025, 358 bottles, +/-2020?)

Colour: red amber. Nose: it is utterly fascinating to check how these armagnacs change when they get older, I'm wondering if it was the goal of the Maître de Chai in the first place. Fruits fading away, dried herbs and hardwoods coming to the front, tertiary aromas chiming in, such as mushrooms, barks, old slump, pipe tobacco, old books and just very old balsamic vinegar. Also teak oil and wee whiffs of new rubber boots. Rather masterful. Mouth: 90 points, see you later. Seriously, we're experiencing just the same, complex spices and tertiary elements appearing, teas, spices, cocoa, coffee, tobaccos, dried porcini, honey-glazed ham (very mwah), dry black raisins, plus a wee slice of that thing that's scaring us all, Christmas cake. Finish: medium, fruitier. The fruits never actually gave up, apricots, marmalade, peach confit… with some honey and sticky toffee pudding in the aftertaste. Comments: what a series. As it appears, Dartigalongue are one of the very few true jewellers of armagnac.
SGP:461 - 90 points.

We've got several others, what do we do? -You're right, why break a verticale?

Dartigalongue 1967 (43%, OB, Bas-armagnac, bonbonne #3, 83 bottles, +/-2020?)

Dartigalongue 1967 (43%, OB, Bas-armagnac, bonbonne #3, 83 bottles, +/-2020?)
That's the thing, bonbonnes a.k.a. dames-jeannes a.k.a. demijohns will prevent any old juice from getting too tired and woody, while still allowing some light, subdued, subtle changes to happen. So, maturation goes on (albeit at a much, much, and I mean much slower pace, unless they let them breathe using bits of hessian between the stopper and the glass) while flavouring with oak is stopped. Exactly what the Scots should do as well, should that be allowed (just my opinion). Colour: amber. Nose: top-notch acetone and model glue, ala very great old bourbon, then stunning vine peaches and jujubes. Broom, wallflower, then damp earth and a drop of miso soup, as well as a little walnut wine and amontillado. Respect. Mouth: it's all moving – and loving - around herbal teas, tobaccos and cinnamon, I would say. Would love to learn when the cask was disgorged, probably not that long ago. It's rather incredibly bright having said that, which would rather suggest, well, just the opposite. You never know, these old armagnacs are like real people, all different and unpredictable. Raisins and a lovely wee smokiness (cigar-smoked salmon, ever tried that?) Finish: medium but incredibly fruity and fresh. Peaches, sultanas, hints of mangos, cinnamon, tea and a little nutmeg. Hints of varnish and high esters are back in the aftertaste, which I find very funny. Comments: pretty focussed and compact, in fact. The Jimi Hendrix Experience, 1967 indeed. Much love.
SGP:562 - 91 points.

In truth I had planned to go even further down the years, but I now think that would be a little 'too much'. If you don't mind, we'll keep a few glories for our next armagnac session…

Check the index of all armagnacs we've tasted so far