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October 4, 2021


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Little duos, today Deanston

Deanston is one of our pet distilleries, mainly because Deanston, mind you, is never, ever boring. I find even their most loco wine-treated expressions, which in theory I shouldn't like at all, interesting and never totally 'butchered'. In short and in my very humble opinion, Deanston is always worth it and it's a joy to try them.  

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Deanston 'Dragon's Milk' (50.5%, OB, Stout Cask finish, 2019)

Deanston 'Dragon's Milk' (50.5%, OB, Stout Cask finish, 2019) Four stars
Did they hire Stephen King? Next time herring casks? In any case, whisky being in essence distilled beer, the idea of a beer cask finish may well be a little tautological, no? Colour: pale white wine. Nose: beer indeed, as in whisky. Grist, chalk, porridge, wholegrain bread, crushed mustard seeds, potato starch… and then, white wine. No, really, a wee muscadet (or melon de Bourgogne – nothing to do with melons). Way less eccentric than I had thought. With water: plain barley and bread. What do the people want. Mouth (neat): very good, tight, fermentary, with good secondary flavours ala Star-of-Campbeltown, porridge, sweet barley, touches of pears and strawberries, then spelt bread and pumpernickel… Very good indeed! With water: beer finishes over table wine finishes? To be discussed, the debate is open… Finish: rather long and chalkier. Tapioca and grilled semolina soup in the aftertaste. Comments: positively impressed here. Now, which stout was it? (Mr Never-satisfied is asking).
SGP:452 - 86 points.

Deanston 11 yo 1998/2009 (55.9%, Whisky Broker)

Deanston 2009/2021 (55.9%, Oxhead Whisky Company, barrel #98, 262 bottles) Five stars
Colour: white wine. Nose: I suppose you can't do any more fermentary, porridge-y, bready and indeed, beerish than this. Wee whiffs of woodruff and aniseed in the back, which is absolutely lovely. Eve, hops, Alsatian anis bredala (cookies)… With water: same. A little earth, a walk in the woods… And fern. Right up my alley, it seems. Mouth (neat): impeccably fat and bready, always with these notes of aniseed, or even artisanal pastis, plus some top-notch cider and beer. Cantillon, there. With water: wow! Lemons, star anise, fennel, rhubarb, chalk, porridge, grapefruits, green tea… I think this is utterly perfect relatively naked malt whisky. Finish: to match. A drop of hibiscus syrup, perhaps. Comments: It's an utter joy to stumble upon such a marvellous little malt whisky.
SGP:462 - 90 points.

More tasting notesCheck the index of all Deanston we've tasted so far

 

 

 
   

 

 

 

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