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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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December 19, 2022 |
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The Time Warp Sessions,
today Longrow,
latest vs. earliest |
Much more than just a peatier Springbank and some expressions have even become cult. Today let's have what's probably the latest available vintage (even if it's a NAS/NVS) and a clean one at that (no sulphury sherry or funny red wine, for example), and then a representative of the earliest vintage, 1973. I'm sure it's going to be something… |
(photograph Peter Currie) |
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Longrow (46%, OB, +/-2021) 
The plainest, purest, cheapest, simplest Longrow, and certainly not my least favourite, although I have to confess that I haven't tried it since 2015 (WF 89). This wee NAS is said to gather whiskies aged from 7 to 14, matured in a variety of casks (most refill, according to the refreshingly light colour). Colour: white wine. Nose: some pinewood burning in the fireplace, in a remote chalet in the Alps, while you're having a quick sauna (oils, ointments) with a glass of chardonnay in hand (would one do that?) and a plate of oysters on the side. There's also more spices than usual, at least that's my feeling. Curry, pepper, heavy nutmeg… Did they strengthen the oak treatment? Mouth: indeed it may be a little oakier and spicier than usual, but I'm totally fine with these notes of mustard, tobacco, mussels cooked in curry sauce, these tiny burnt touches reminiscent of burnt tyres, the ashes… Finish: very long, saltier yet, lemony, mustardy, peppery, with a sweeter aftertaste. Comments: still love it, even if I have the impression that it became more modern, so more wood-driven than before.
SGP:366 - 87 points. |
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Longrow 1973/1990 (46%, Moon Import, The Birds, hogshead, cask #1731, 600 bottles) 
Remember Longrow used to be the name of an old Distillery in Campbeltown (1824-1896), way before Springbank decided to start making a peatier, double-distilled make and to name it 'Longrow'. Also remember peaters where in high demand at that time, while Islay was having difficulty supplying the amounts the blenders were asking for. 1973 was the first vintage of 'new Longrow' ever available and, in my book and together with 1974 and probably 1987, the best. Colour: light gold. Nose: how splendid! It all starts with some old Comté cheese, we then move towards candied citrus and spent engine oil, as well as many tiny cooking herbs and little-known berries, plus linseed oil. All you need to add is canvasses, turpentine and old oil paint and presto, you've got a Van Gogh or a Monet. Quite. Mouth: we're not that far from quasi-neighbours Ardbeg in similar vintages. Sublime petroly notes, oils, tar, also a much subtler saline, coastal side, with small oysters and various seashells. As often in old peaters, candied citrus are dancing a jig in the background, together with bits of putty and linoleum. Forget about wood, only time, in cask and in glass, can generate this. Finish: lovely length, while we're rather on great lemony and chalky white wines this time. Around Sancerre, for example. Comments: how the h*ll did they manage to produce such a perfect beauty right from the first vintage? And where did they put the recipe? Kudos to pioneers Moon Import too, and to il signor Mongiardino.
SGP:456 - 94 points. |
(Thank you Whisky Magazine France) |
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