Revising my Glenfiddich


Mars 18, 2022

Revising my Glenfiddich

Just one or two regular expressions that we do have to try every five years or so. Self-imposed rules, those are the hardest indeed. Let's kick this off with an apéritif, as usual.
'As a tribute to the first connoisseurs who brought back what the Scots were really enjoying at home' (French ad, 1985)

Glenfiddich 'Special Old Reserve' (40%, OB, Pure Malt, UK, +/-1985)

It is for these kinds of bottles that with the Malt Maniacs, we started to use the acronym 'NAS'. Indeed, No Age Statement. We've only ever tried this triangular expression at 43% vol., so this is a first indeed. By the way, the tube states 'Special Reserve' while the bottle would rather use the wording 'Special Old Reserve'. Goes to show how meaningful those terms are. Colour: light gold. Nose: these Glenfiddichs always make you think of barley and overripe apples and pears at first. Always, this is no exception. Then there would be some metallic touches, some mashed grains and vegetables, a feeling of light peat that wasn't uncommon in Glenfiddich, and just greengages, both preserved and as jam. Ripe plums that fell to the ground. Mouth: it's hit-or-miss with these bottles but this is hit. Awesome fresh barley and malt, chef's apple pie, pilsner, earth, teas, leaves… Very very good, and not even thin at 40% vol. No wonder they became #1. Finish: not even short. Lovely jams and teas, with an earthy and very remotely smoky aftertaste. Comments: the thing is, at that time we would have tended to underestimate both Glenfiddich as 'Pure Malt' and Johnnie Walker as 'blended Scotch', simply because they had become extremely dominant in the market. But when we try those old bottles today, honestly, we can only laugh at ourselves…
SGP:462 - 86 points.

Good, that's sorted.

Glenfiddich 21 yo 'Reserva Rum Cask Finish' (40%, OB, +/-2021)

There used to be a 21 'Gran Reserva' in France just last year, but it seems that its disappeared. The one we're having on the tasting desk just now is rather called 'Reserva Rum Cask Finish'. Some gentle minds would tell you that this one spent its last four months in casks that had formerly sheltered some rum from Sancti Spiritus, which is located in the middle of Cuba. It's true that the 21 had also been called 'Havana Reserve', which may have displeased a certain administration. Colour: gold. Nose: Cuban rum is light, so I wouldn't swear I'm finding any obvious rumness in this one. Having said that it's a pleasant drop on the nose, light indeed but nicely fragrant, with some heather honey and some nectar, dandelion and other yellow flowers (always rich in sweet nectar). Perhaps a touch of orangey rum, after all. Nice. Mouth: this time the 40% are problematic, they make the whisky thin and drying, with a tea-ish-ness that should have been avoided at 21 years of age. Cold tea, a touch of burnt caramel, some leafiness… Nosedives after just ten seconds, which is regrettable since the core seems to be pleasantly aromatic and well-composed. Nice marmalade and muscovado sugar. Finish: short. A shame, again, the core is nice. Notes of pink bananas, great bananas being a very Cuban thing indeed. Comments: this bottling regime has become obsolete. How many excellent well-aged whiskies are still being slaughtered like this?
SGP:341 - 81 points (85 guaranteed at 44 or 45% vol.)

I think we'll have an IB…

Wardhead 1997/2020 (52.1%, Michiel Wigman, They Inspired II, 132 bottles)

Quite a few Wardhead 1997 have popped out in recent years, Wardhead being the name of 'teaspooned', thus vatted, Glenfiddich-based blended malt. But did you ever spot anyone carrying teaspoons at any Scottish whisky facility, except at tea-time? Colour: straw. Nose: they're all a little rustic and grassy, peely, on apples and green pears, then lager and a little sourdough. No exception here. With water: fresh bread, a little plaster, oats, chalk, porridge sweetened with honey… Mouth (neat): malt whisky exactly au naturel, with some barley, soft liquorice, apple juice, apple pie, ale and orange zests. Perhaps for barley freaks. With water: it swims extremely well on the palate, gaining wideness and assertiveness (please explain, S.) Even more sweet barley and ales, which I find lovely. Finish: medium, very barley-y and kougelhopfy (you're hopeless, S.) Almonds and pistachio syrup in the aftertaste. Comments: it took its time but water helped a lot, esp. on the palate. Well done, Mahalia Jackson! (because she's Mahalia Jackson on the label, is she not? Sarah Vaughan? Ella?)
SGP:451 - 87 points.

Check the index of all Glenfiddich we've tasted so far