Rums of all nations. Almost


September 4, 2022

Rums of all nations. Almost

Let's see what we find, starting with easier ones as usual. It's good that we keep the malternatives or putative malternatives for our Sundays, or this lousy website would soon become boozefun.com, which is absolutely not my goal. We'd die.

Cihuatàn 'Xaman XO' (40%, OB, El Salvador, +/-2021)

We've only tasted one Cihuatàn this far, a 2004 single cask for Belgium (but naturally) that had been excellent (WF 85). They say this very one has been matured for 15 years in ex-bourbon, but they also say it is a solera, then finished in ceiba wood for one year, which is also called 'fromager' in the French west indies. Ex-molasses, column. Colour: full gold. Nose: very nice within that style, on fermenting cane juice, rotting bananas and pineapples, liquorice, some natural rubber/hevea (is that the ceiba wood?) as well as blancmange, well this is rather Caribbean than Central-American (where small El Salavador is located, in case you didn't know). Mouth: indeed, no sugar load in the arrival, even if this is pretty sweet, with some honey, sugar cane, a pack of soft liquorice, and indeed molasses. No rubber this time. Finish: medium, rather too sweet now, I suppose it was boosted in some ways. Some burnt caramel in the aftertaste. Comments: it's not often that these styles of rum reach the 80-mark in my wee book. Not that it should matter, mind you…
SGP:740 - 80 points.

Let's swim to St. Lucia…

Admiral Rodney 'HMS Royal Oak' (40%, OB, St. Lucia, +/-2021)

Not a name that's very common in France, but it's true that British admirals have never been extremely popular in France, at least not since Trafalgar (but Rodney died in 1792). A basic expression had been moderately exciting in my opinion, back in 2015 (WF 75). This one is xx-bourbon cask for between 7 and 12 years, so a 7 years old, distilled in a Coffey still. As for the name Royal Oak, I suppose they are good friends with the house Audemars Piguet (footballers' watches, really). Colour: amber. Nose: feels spiced-up, with huge whiffs of lilies and aromatic grape varietals such as viognier. Notes of caraway liqueur too, tropical flowers, surely jasmine, earl grey tea… It is pretty pleasant, in fact, it's just a little scary w.r.t. the palate… Mouth: I find it good, actually drier than the Cihuatàn, feeling spicy and floral indeed but not really sweetened-up. A large pack of liquorice allsorts, really all sorts. Finish: medium, with some caramel this time, molasses, and indeed, sweet viognier from the Rhône valley. Right, sweeter than a Condrieu. Comments: same ballpark, good quality, very easy to drink, and not, well, woreish at all. Or, another word that you cannot use anymore, not sluttish. No shame.
SGP:730 - 80 points.

Let's try to climb up the ladder…

Foursquare 11 yo 2010/2022 (45%, Samaroli, for The Whisky Barrel 15th anniversary, Trinidad, cask #16, 330 bottles)

Bottled in Bonnie Scotland, so probably 'early landed', as some would say. There's what's legal and there's what isn't, but I have heard some excellent cognac producers starting to consider that the warmer climate that we're having this year could have a small detrimental impact on the maturing spirits, making them a little 'harsher'. So it's to be wondered if, with climate change, some will not start to try to find means to mature their stocks in cooler and moister environments. Won't Scotland become a giant warehouse one day? Or Greenland? But some (recent) regulations will have to be bent before that can happen… Colour: pale gold. Nose: it's a more phenolic Foursquare, you'd even find some kind of peat, some nail polish remover too, perhaps more esters than usual as well, some hay, fermenting grass, certainly some cane juice, then some 'easier' vanilla and, to make it even more Scottish, some shortbread. Mouth: no, it's very Foursquare on the palate, with a lovely sourness that makes it deeper, otherwise varnish and glues, cane honey, overripe apples, fudge, bonbons and once more, liquorice allsorts. Finish: medium, with this funny wee 'peatiness' back on your tongue. Comments: these lower strengths are a little unusual, but I say they go well with Foursquare. What's more, water is becoming expensive (yeah right).
SGP:552 - 87 points.

Black Tot 'Master Blender's Reserve 2022' (54.5%, Elixir Distillers)

Tonnerre de Brest, the British Navy again! Our English friends say 'sacrebleu' whenever they want to swear in French (or pu**in !) but once and for all, we never, ever use that word, you'll only find it in old books! Or in Tintin… Colour: full gold. Nose: very British, that is to say with Jamaica and possibly Trinidad playing first fiddles – or top dressers, with easier ones behind them, probably Guyana.. Oh wait, they published the 'country bill', that would be 'Guyana, Barbados, Jamaica and Trinidad, from different distilleries'. In any case, I find it rather awesome, and it's funny that we just had a Foursquare since this is not too far, not even more petroly or estery, or more olive-y. Some charcoal ashes, cigars for sure… With water: there, new electronics and rubbers, varnishes, engine oil… Mouth (neat): 'better' on the palate when naked, which is always preferable than the other way 'round, saltier, more Jamaican, more petroly, more mezcaly, wilder… Some lovely oranges dipped into diesel oil or something. Fuel. Perfect. With water: yes, the combination works, it's estery but not tiring, salty, with touches of thyme and tar, plus our beloved olives. I've always wondered, do they grow olives in the Caribbean? Finish: rather long, more on salted liquorice. Not an uncommon finish. Comments: top class blend. To think that in the French Marine, they were having Champagne instead. I'm joking, only officers.
SGP:463 - 88 points.

Since we've mentioned Jamaica, let's take risks…

New Yarmouth 27 yo 1994/2022 (60.1%, Thompson Bros., Jamaica, 285 bottles)

I've always found these New Yarmouths rather difficult to tackle. But we'll do every effort… Having said that I find this label exquisite, it reminds of one of my favourite painters, Cobra member Pierre Alechinsky. Colour: deep gold. Nose: phew, not exactly a New Yarmouth that would tear you apart and then drown you in wood varnish. It's rather a gentle one, rather cakey and on maple syrup, demerara sugar, bananas flambeed, cedarwood and old cigar humidor, vanilla pods… In truth it's got something agricole. Probably a marque NYE/P. With water: there, varnish, a Saturday morning at Ikea (nice as long as you manage to go out), new sneakers, corn syrup, molasses, chestnut honey… Mouth (neat): oh very good, strong and of course a little varnishy, with some bitter burnt fruits and caramel, some tobacco, some burnt herbs… and a lot of ethanol. So, with water: water works. Gentler than expected, with a lovely bitterness, raw chocolate, stout, and indeed some gentle cane juice. Pretty soft, actually. Finish: long and very chocolaty. Mocha and orange liqueur in the aftertaste, plus a wee cologne-y side in the back of the back.. Comments: so, a gentle batch of New Yarmouth. More complex than you would have thought. And excellent.
SGP:551 - 88 points.

Perhaps another 1994, but from Guyana?

Enmore 27 yo 1994/2022 (53.5%, The Rum Cask)

The marque here is 'REV', which should mean 'Rum Enmore Versailles', which would suggest that this was distilled in Versailles' old wooden pot-still while it was still at Enmore, which got closed that year, in 1994, with still and casks subsequently moved to Uitvlugt, which was closed in 2000, with the still finally moved to Diamond, while the cask may have remained in Uitvlugt's warehouse, which Diamond kept using. Phew! Not too sure when this cask was moved to Europe, having said that. Colour: mahogany, so very dark so possibly long tropical aging. Nose: aberrantly wonderfully deep and profound, with deep spices from the wood, many rotting fruits, an unexpected feeling of rye, rye bread, pumpernickel, brown ale, prunes, molasses… Very unusual! With water: very old rye whisky, really! Cross my heart… Mouth (neat): glorious fruity and spicy and woody and extremely liquoricy combo. Love this to utter bits. With water: oh! We'll have to talk about this cask with the Rum Cask folks next year in Limburg, let's schedule an appointment! Finish: long, salty, on salted anchovies and black olives. This is almost rum alla puttanesca. And come on raisins in the aftertaste? Comments: magic. Magic that may not please just everyone, but magic. I also love it that it as bottled under a label that looks like… well, like it's all about what's inside, not outside.
SGP:463 - 91 points.

Only Jamaicans could climb over that one…

Long Pond 2007/2022 (68%, Swell & Co, Jamaica, 367 bottles)

Will this be a 'TECA' (1000), a 'TECB' (1300) or a 'TECC' (1500)? Anyway, thank you bottlers and distillers, you seem to believe that we humble tasters are immortal. I mean 68 f****g % vol.! For crying out loud, save us (S., you sissy!) Colour: red amber. Nose: all kinds of varnishes and a whole focaccia filled with black olives. Not a bad start. With water: same! Plus menthol cigarettes and candied citrons. Candied citrons are part of my own Pantheon, a shame that they are so hard to come by. Mouth (neat): tops salted glues and varnishes. Right. With water: some dirtiness chiming in, always a good sign, while on the other hand, the core would get softer and rounder, I was about to write 'cakey'. Finish: long, with the olives winning it. The esters too, although I wouldn't say it's 'very high esters' Long Pond. So probably no 'TEC', I was probably wrong once more. Comments: joke aside, marvellous Long Pond. Plus, your bottle will be eternal, at this strength.
SGP:463 - 90 points.

Do we do the next one or do we call this a session? You bet?!

Long Pond 23 yo 1999/2022 'HJC' (76%, Plantation for Salon du Rhum Belgique, 298 bottles)

Good, we've got our lawyers with us, we may proceed. I have to say I'm not familiar with the marque 'HJC', but I know what 76% mean. In any case, just like ethanol, the proportions of esters may change during aging, as peat levels do in whisky (those ppms peat). Yeah, just figures anyway… Dear lawyers, may we proceed?... Colour: deep gold. Nose: almost nada, niente, rien, nothing, nichts… And that's the amount of ethanol, I'm sure. Your nostrils will just switch to survival mode at this strength, that's it. Well, if you nose remotely, you'll find these light esters, olives, and tobacco. But no risks taken… With water: rather muddy, with old fruits, fermentations, also aniseed, lemongrass, cabbage and asparagus, some bizarre raisins, sweet wine (what?) It's as if all molecules had been shaken and mixed by water. Mouth (neat): take only half a drop please. Seems to work. Oranges and quinces buried in liquorice, tar and tapenade. The lawyers say I must add water right away. With a lot of water: classic pretty estery Long Pond with a sweeter coating. It's showcasing Long Pond's usual roughness but some demerara sugar or something has been spread all over it. Finish: long, excellent, just a tad undecided. Is it dry or is it sweet? Echoes of dried pineapples in the aftertaste. Comments: excellent==/=/* drop (almost vapour, really), but these utter monsters are extremely hard to follow, to handle and to comprehend, that's all I'll say.
SGP:662 - 85 points.

Update: I haven't been paying attention, that one was finished in cognac wood for four years. It all makes sense now…

(Merci Vincent!)

Check the index of all rums we've tasted so far