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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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June 16, 2023 |
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A Quartet of Edradour
Edradour lost its status as the 'smallest distillery in Scotland' quite some time ago, especially since it was duplicated around four years ago, effectively doubling its capacity. I don't get the impression that this change in status bothers many people, especially since the current offerings, in my humble opinion, have never been better. Unfortunately, we don't have Edradour #2 in our tasting glasses yet, but that will surely happen eventually. Let's see what we have...
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Edradour 10 yo 2003 + 2010/2021 (48.5%, Decadent Drinks, Equinox & Solstice, 1st fill barrels, 491 bottles) 
I believe The Sponge, who's behind Decadent Drinks as many know, is one of the biggest fans of Edradour. Colour: light gold. Nose: this is already 'new regime' Edradour, as even in 2003 the Distillery was already in these better hands and, as far as I can remember from our earlier tastings, had already eradicated any possible wee soapiness. That shows here, while the style would be pretty earthy and peppery, with some soft mustard and orange zests at first, while playful raspberries would then come in. Some fruit curry of some sorts. Whiffs of fresh fruity varnish too. Still singular malt whisky here and there, but this spicy muesli-like style works well in my book. Mouth: good fun. I cannot not think of 'some' Juras and Fettercairns, perhaps even Glenturret. Pepper, mustard, somewhat salty wine (fino – but there isn't any), touches of leather and old walnuts… Finish: rather long, with some raspberry eau-de-vie, mustard, pepper, walnuts… Clove in the aftertaste. Comments: or how to produce a sherried malt without any sherry. Interesting.
SGP:462 - 85 points. |

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Edradour 2011/2020 (59.9%, OB for The Dram Club & Or Sileis, matured in 1st fill Marsala hogshead, cask #73, 403 bottles) 
With a lucky cat on the label. Colour: deep gold. Nose: deep sweet wine, wonderful here as it's all geared towards rancio, Rivesaltes and, I suppose, Marsala (but I know quasi-zilch about Masala, I have to admit). With water: superb Balinese satay sauce, a little paraffin, apricot pie, a little fig wine, a touch of sweet vinegar… Mouth (neat): very punchy and heavy, but sometimes heaviness works. Sweet walnut wine, rich raisins, pepper and turmeric and, I have to say, rather a lot of ethanol. Water is needed, even if I've noticed that a part of the young guard can swallow this kind of thing without any water without batting an eyelid at all. With water:… which would be a mistake indeed, as it does gain much complexity at around 45% vol., with rather incredible notes of myrtle liqueur, for example. Some black nougat too, sesame paste and, indeed satay (peanut based). Finish: long, always with this myrtle thing… Earth, ginger and marmalade in the aftertaste, which is more common. Comments: rich and growing on you, after having pushed you around a little bit at first.
SGP:661 - 87 points. |

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Edradour 14 yo 2008/2022 (60%, OB, Grand Arome Rum Cask Matured, cask #91, 490 bottles) 
if I may, and that'll be a good glass of top amarone (already paid), in French "arome" takes an accent, like in "arôme". The cask should stem from Savanna in La Réunion. Wonderful high-ester rhums, these very grands-arômes! Colour: light gold. Nose: totally modern, totally 'trans', almost woke. Rich ripe bananas and overripe quinces (two years old), plus some very wild macerated 'orange' chardonnay. And, right, 60% vol. So, with water: more mutations, but should you have this in your glass one day, you'll notice that Edradour 'can take it'. Saltier, almost coastal, with even these olives that we always love. Mouth (neat): big boy, banana foam, pepper, mustard, horseradish, walnut wine this time again, salted liquorice, grapefruit liqueur… With water: more saltiness, more brine, more olives, more liquorice, more bananas too… You would almost believe there's also a drop of artisanal pastis in there. Finish: very long, tighter, zestier, with no fatness. Comments: it's a happy marriage. Not without reminding us of Watt Whisky's recent excellent rum-soaked secret Campbeltowner. True woke whiskies!
SGP:563 - 88 points. |

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Edradour 15 yo 2006/2022 (61.4%, OB, Burgundy Cask Matured, cask #337, 243 bottles) 
I insist, I'm not a fan of whisky + red wine, which usually sounds like Ozzy Osbourne singing Schubert in my book. But as always, there are exceptions and I believe this could be one of them… I'm serious. Perhaps more like Keith Emerson playing J.S. Bach (please drop those stupid musical analogies for good, S.) Colour: amber. Nose: feels like some STRification happened here, as it starts all on praline, fudge, panettone, brioches and all that. Which, naturally, is lovely. Some sweet white balsamico coming out too, but then it gets…just too strong. With water: just a family pack of dried goji berries – and it is a very large family. Mouth (neat): a few oak shavings at first, then rosehip tea, elderberry liqueur, bittersweet vermouth, Timut pepper… And yet, it is strong. With water: more bitter vermouths or amaro, in the style of Montenegro, just less sweetish. The oak shavings are still there too. Finish: long, on spicy fudge and bitters. Pepper and capsicum in the aftertaste. Comments: not particularity pinot-noir-y (although, now that you mention that, I do get drops of guignolet, cherry liqueurs and all that). I'll get me a bottle and let all my wine anorak friends try it, I'd love to know what they think. One of my favourite 'wined-up' whiskies for sure.
SGP:662 - 86 points. |
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