A Trio of Recent Old Blends


September 28, 2023

A Trio of Recent Old Blends

From some of our favourite whisky DJs… It is true that the control station of a distillery closely resembles a DJ's mixing desk.

Martin Solveig (Le Dauphiné)

7 Stars 30 yo 'Cask Strength' (48.2%, Cadenhead, blended Scotch, sherry, 2023)

As others have done, think White Heather, they've resurrected their pretty legendary old brand and also done this prestige (but very fairly priced) version of it. Hope Diageo will also soon resurrect Mackie's Ancient Brand! We've tried Cadenhead's old 7 Stars 12 years old back in 2018, it was fantastic but it was a 'pure malt', bottled in Springbank's famous pear-shape bottle probably just after the takeover, in the early 1970s (WF 91). It was sporting this funny mention on the label, '12 to 20 years old'. But enough chatter, we're here for the new one… Colour: gold. Nose: very fine, mostly nutty, with the expected walnuts, touches of rubber, used tealeaves, whiffs of silverware (old spoons), some mustiness, old cellar, old ointments, old paint… It's all 'old' indeed, in a very elegant way. An old box of mint tea that would date back twenty years. No, rather thirty years, of course. Drop of soy sauce (not old this time). Mouth: I wouldn't say the grain(s) play a big role. A rather firm blend, with clearly something 'ancient', more nuts, old teas, this charming metallic side (silver, copper), quite some dry sherry, amontillado-style, then a lovely development on all things tea and herbal tea. A little salty tobacco, if that makes any sense, plus some marrow quenelles (just an example). Finish: medium, on dry sherry, salty bouillons, touch of coffee, tobacco, and just old-school malt. Comments: it really seems that they tried to mimic some older bottles, and I think they succeeded. You'd even find a little OBE. In a new bottle! So everything is pleasantly retro here, from packaging to the liquid inside. Charming and excellent. The grain isn't very detectable, but we're not going to cry about that, are we?
SGP:362 - 88 points.

Blended Malt 50 yo 1971/2022 (49.5%, The Whisky Exchange, Celebrating 50 years, Speyside, refill sherry butt, 303 bottles)

Is this really blended or is it a famous single malt from Speyside in disguise? This possible marvel was bottled last year to celebrate the family of Sukhinder and Rajbir Singh's 50 years in the drinks industry. Colour: light gold. Nose: game, set and match. A beehive, some precious black tea, a few ultra-ripe apples, some figs, tangerines, quinces, some fresh-rubbed mint leaves, and a glass of mature pinot gris plus one of manzanilla. I would have said Bunnahabhain, but last time I checked, Bunnahabhain was not located in Speyside. An old Speyside with a little salinity? Or truly a blended malt, perhaps blended at birth? Mouth: teas, putty, beeswax, more overripe apples, thyme tea, small berries (elder, sorb), then pistachio cream and a very pleasant wee dustiness, rusk crumbs, even a touch of polenta. We've known some superb very old Tomintouls that were a bit like this. Citrus taking over after a while, which is great news too. Clementines, shall we say. Finish: medium, soft, honeyed and full of softer teas. Probably perfect for breakfast. Ripe williams pears in the aftertaste. Comments: perhaps two or three 'T' Speysiders. In any case, it's lovable, but isn't it strange that we most love very old whiskies when they don't nose and taste that old, which is the case with this one? Yes, it's somewhat contradictory. We are full of contradictions.
SGP:561 - 91 points.

Blended Malt 44 yo 1978/2023 (59.8%, Spheric Spirits, refill sherry butt, cask #6, 331 bottles)

These great folks are located in Leipzig, while every time this superb city is mentioned, I cannot help but think of Johann Sebastian Bach. Let's see what kind of cantata it is this time. Or is it a grand mass? Colour: gold. Nose: oh Christ, grand mass! (there, Bach, I told you). This is exceptional on the nose, feeling a little Edringtonian (completely at random). Incredible coastal, waxy, slightly smoky side, with dazzling whiffs of heather honey, figs, ripe mirabelle and sultanas… There's even a drop of olive oil. With water: butter and praline cream and pure chalk, which makes for a perfect contrast of style. Great fun. All things honeys and bees too. Mouth (neat): intensely amazing, with mangos, bananas, a light bitterish fizziness (Campari and tonic) and an avalanche of dried fruits, and once again a touch of medicinal smoke. But be careful, at almost 60%, it goes down like a treat. With water: eucalyptus, oranges, tangerines and bergamots. I'm afraid some Dutch friends are going to make fun of me again if I also mention kumquats, but there, 'kumquats'. Finish: long, waxy, honeyed and citrusy, with an 'HP' side of very good stock. Comments: ah, these kumquats! (het spijt me, vrienden).
SGP:652 - 92 points.

Update: we should read whisky websites more often. It appears that this was old Long John stock from Ben Nevis, with the peatiness rather stemming from Laphroaig. I would suppose there was some Lochside too if it was truly a blended malt, but pure speculations, those tropical notes could also come from Laphroaig. Thanks to The Antelope.

I would really like to complete this amazing trio with a young peated blend, what do you think?

Blended Islay Malt 8 yo 2013/2021 (58.7%, Elixir Distillers, The Whisky Trail Taiwan, bourbon barrel, cask #24, 253 bottles)

Colour: light gold. Nose: classic, new wellies, new tyres, coal tar, rubber bands, cigar ashes, charcoal… In fact it is as tarry, if not tarrier, than a young Port Ellen. We are in the camping department of a general store, rubber boots section. With water: feels East Coast, between CI and B. Some awesome notes of root vegetables, fennel, aniseed, and always a lot of smoke, burning tyres, dragster race (but where would you do that on Islay?)… Mouth (neat): huge. From high-ester rum to liquid smoke through spicy pizza oil and, I'll say it, limoncello. And bird's eye chili. With water: back to civilisation, but barely. Heavy smoked lemon liqueur. Finish: very long, very tarry. Some sweeter chilliness in the aftertaste. Comments: it almost seems like Elixir prepared this young blend to accompany the spiciest Cantonese cuisine. It's crazy (cough) but we (cough) like it rather (cough) a lot.
SGP:468 - 87 points.