Angus's Corner
From our correspondent and
skilled taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland

MacKenzie Pure Malt 8 Year Old (46%, OB, Italian import, -/+1970)
This should be from the House of Bells, so very likely will contain chunky proportions of Blair Athol, Dufftown and Inchgower. Colour: white wine. Nose: but this is lovely! Very pure, fatty and greasy old highland distillate, lots of waxes, putty, camphor, linseed oils and rather a lot of herbal and mineral notes. Strong sheep wool oil vibes with things like toolbox rags and cooking oils. Mouth: very simple and directly on raw ingredients, with a lot of plain cereals, mash water, putty, lanolin and sooty coal notes. More camphor, some hints of medicinal things, suet and bouillon. Very old school and really all about distillate. Finish: medium, peppery, waxy and drying with more mineral and oily sheep wool impressions. Comments: this bottle has exactly the same 'highland malt whisky' branded foil capsule as on the official Dufftown and Blair Athol bottlings of the same era, and the liquid inside is certainly in a similarly 'highland' style as those single versions. Excellent, and a very good indication of the 'malt whisky flavour' of this era, in a very broad sense. 
SGP: 462 - 86 points. 

Berry's All Malt 12 yo (43%, Berry Brothers & Rudd, Italian import, -/+ 1975)
This bottling seems to have just rolled along in many, many small batches and variations for several decades. The contents were legendarily silly, containing many top names and much greater ages, as we've seen on one or two old recipes that have emerged from Berry's archives in recent years. I've yet to have a disappointing one of these… Colour: amber. Nose: a simple and direct, but totally exquisite old style sherry profile. Many dark fruit jams, hints of old leather, mineral oils, walnut liqueur and some pretty vivid rancio. An irresistible profile that screams class. Mouth: terrific arrival, perfectly drying, peppery, full of bitter chocolate, suggestions of sea salt, herbal bitters and things like tonic wine, aniseed and fennel. Even wee notions of celery salt and Maggi that come from this wider umami quality, in time it goes towards things like aged Grande Champagne cognac. Finish: good length, again on the drier and slightly salty and gamey side, with some deeper earthy, walnut and tobacco notes all prevalent. Comments: let's not forget this was the entry level 'standard drinking malt' in Berry's range at the time. Probably unfair to compare to modern equivalents, it is simply a hugely pleasurable, old, sherry matured malt whisky. 
SGP: 651 - 90 points. 

Glencoe 8 year old malt whisky (100° proof, OB, 19.9 fluid ounces, -/+1960s)
I've tried a few versions of this over the years and we're never too sure if they are blended malts or in fact just entirely composed of old Ben Nevis, the character of which at that time was pretty different to what it is today. The quality is often a bit patchy in my experience, but this is perhaps the oldest version I've found yet, and it comes in a funny but extremely stylish wee 19.9 fluid ounce bottle, or 56.4cl. So, doing 50cl bottles isn't anything new… Colour: deep orangey gold. Nose: as I've often found with this series over the years, the profile seems to be often quite brutal and tough, which is certainly the case here. However, this one is the most sherried version I've found thus far, so a lean, highly mineral and oily sherry profile that involves lots of marrow, bacon fat, saltiness, medicinal herbs and even things like ink, suet, putty and cheng pi orange peel. A glimmer of honey adds a suggestion of something sweeter and brighter. Overall though this is robust and austere old highland whisky. With water: very leafy, very mineral and getting more animalistic with sheep wool, furs and duck fat (maybe I will roast my potatoes in this whisky for Christmas day this year?). Mouth: coal tar soap, aniseed, a very drying and brittle waxiness and then an increasing sense of bitter herbs, hessian and camphor. It's also getting a tad soapy as well, which is a shame as there were some very promising elements. We aren't talking 80s Bowmore levels, but it's unavoidable and not too enjoyable. Some overripe orange peels, burnt marmalade and suggestions of cough medicine. With water: this hasn't helped the situation, it's not enhanced the soap but it all falls apart a little now. Finish: long, very herbal and bitter, peppery, sharp and rather aggressive almost. Comments: I don't know why, but I always want this series to be better. It's probably the west highland connection that makes me want to love it, precisely why I am also extremely fond of the old Black Bottle brand. It's a shame as there were some very promising bits at the start, but this soapiness is undeniably a flaw. 
SGP: 472 - 70 points. 

Sutherland 5 yo (48.5%, Thompson Brothers, Whiskyfun 20th Anniversary, 590 bottles, 2022)
A mix of Dornoch single malt, Clynelish and a midgie's highball of Brora! Colour: pale straw. Nose: very creamy and full of yellow fruits, mirabelle and gorse flower too. It has a very evocative coastal and waxy side that really does make you think of the whiskies from the town of Brora, but then perhaps we will have to add the town of Dornoch to that profile in future? Some sea greens, lemongrass, more aromatic and slightly herbal waxy tones and even impressions of herbal liqueur and ointments. Quite brilliant for only a 5yo I have to say. Goes on with some melon, more plums and a little cannabis oil, which I genuinely find quite often when I try Dornoch single malt. Reminiscent of some old green dumpy bottle Glendronachs. Mouth: brightly fruity with yellow fruits again, but also rather a lot of tart green fruits such as green apple and gooseberry, then also a touch of mango and kiwi. A lovely fruity medley. That coastal side is still there in the mix, while I'm also finding the palate a little farmy as well. Rather lot of beers and breads joining the waxy notes and the syrupy fruitiness. A lot going on! Finish: good length, back on waxes and coastal notes, also cereals, putty, lemons and chalk. Comments: a terrific wee potion, very well balanced between the various characters at work. Happy belated 20th, Whiskyfun! 
SGP: 562 - 88 points. 

Rhythm & Booze 13 yo blended malt (50%, Rhythm & Booze Records, sherry butt, 1050 bottles)
A combination of indy bottler and record label with some excellent and very talented people behind it. Colour: pale gold. Nose: nutty and chocolatey, not unlike nosing a molten Snickers bar. There's also a little fir wood and dried pine needle, camphor and salted caramel, over time becoming more herbal and resinous. With water: unlit cigar, cedar wood and camphor, it's become bigger and fatter globally I would say. Mouth: good arrival, I actually find it a sharper and saltier style of sherry than anticipated, it's also got something rather robust that recalls worm tub makes like Craigellachie, with this big fatness and earthiness that verges on game pate and salty liquorice. With water: takes on a meatier quality, with bacon jam and suggestions of peppery biltong. There's still this nice camphor note, also caraway and dry roast peanuts. Finish: medium, rather dense, earthy, leathery and nicely drying. Comments: a surprisingly big and chunky dram, no doubt suitable for large measures in tumblers to be intellectualised while listening to jazz. But in all seriousness, an excellent drop, reminds me of quite a few modern sherried Craigellachies. 
SGP: 462 - 85 points. 

Campbeltown 6 year old 2017 (58.6%, Watt Whisky, barrel, 252 bottles)
Let's hear from Kate and Mark in C-town… Colour: white wine. Nose: washing powder and freshly laundered linens on a washing line, in other words: hyper fresh and pretty coastal with a very marine and clear sea air vibe. Touches of green olive, ink, cider apple and lots of fermentary notes that make you think of everything from silage to sourdough starter. Excellent! With a little time there's also a nice impression of pickling brine and cornichons! With water: chalk, beach pebbles, dried seaweed and malt vinegar! Mouth: some of these batches make you scratch your head, whereas this one rather screams 'Glen Scotia with a bottle of Springbank 10 somewhere in the mix!' Rich and creamy, with lots of peppery notes, and various rather funky and slightly overripe fruits like pineapple and lemon. Still very coastal and marine, while also verging on swimming pools and elastoplasts as well. With water: nicely waxy, still very chalky and coastal, various herbs like lemon thyme and rosemary, then about a magnum of aged Gueuze beer - no wonder Mark likes these batches! Finish: long, sharp, peppery, citric and even a tiny glimmer of peat. Comments: these batches are extremely charismatic and powerful young whiskies, and also highlight the fact that it's not only Mitchell's that are making excellent whisky in Campbeltown. 
SGP: 462 - 87 points. 

Blended Malt 20 year old 2001/2022 (45.7%, North Star Spirits for the Sherry Bomb Whisky Appreciation Society', sherry butt, 583 bottles)
As I understand it, these butts of '2001' blended malt were only married and re-casked in 2001, some components date back as far as the 1970s, hence the lower ABVs. Colour: amber. Nose: chocolate truffles, tobacco leaf and soft leaf mulch notes. Cellar earth, dunnage funk and walnut oil and a few almonds as well. Lovely, gentle, leafy, slightly chocolatey old school sherry. Mouth: same feeling of must and earthiness but with a slightly more pronounced acetic side going on, which is to say pickled walnuts, balsamic reduction, bitter chocolate and hints if strawberry wine and camphor. Finish: medium, lightly sappy, peppery, some black coffee and more nice notes of walnuts, leather and mulchy tobacco leaf. Comments: what's nice about this batch is that all these casks are very cohesive and singular. They feel like a proper vatted malt product that has had a long, slow time to marry and find balance. They're on the simple side, but eminently scoffable. 
SGP: 651 - 87 points. 

St Bridget's Kirk 20 year old 2001/2022 (45.1%, Hannah Whisky Merchants, cask #2, 281 bottles)
The label says: 'An unpeated three component blend of well-aged single malts from undisclosed distilleries located from the Highland, Speyside and Islay regions.' Colour: amber. Nose: very nice! Although, we aren't far from the North Star bottling in some ways, lots of soft leafy, earthy and mulchy vibes going on here too. A little darker on the fruitiness, more walnuts, more rancio and more on an old school 'stewed fruit sherry' vibe about it. Mouth: firm, drying and darkly fruity. Weighted like a Grande Champagne Cognac of good age but with a bit more power. Some sultans, fig jam, tobacco leaf and chocolate liqueur. Finish: medium and nicely on bitter herbs, coffee, unlit cigar and more of these sticky, stewed dark fruit qualities. Comments: an excellent drop, plenty old school charm about it and similar comments to the North Star bottling, I just prefer the slightly more elevated rancio vibes going on here. 
SGP: 651 - 88 points. 

Blended Malt 50 year old 1971/2022 (49.5%, The Whisky Exchange, refill sherry butt, 303 bottles)
Colour: bright straw. Nose: is this not 50 year old Glenfarclas though? Seriously, a stunning fusion of honeycomb, beeswax, flower honeys, long-aged mead, camphor and cannabis resins. The kind of profile that really recalls even earlier era, legendary, long-aged Speyside malts. Did they mix 1971 Caperdonich with 1954 Glen Grant? In time it evolves stunning herbal and fruit tea notes, with lemon marmalade and passion flower. Incredibly fresh, waxy, bright and floral. Mouth: stunning richness! Pure honey, yellow plums baked in syrup, kiwi, flambeed banana, star fruit and even melon cordial. Amazing fruit profile, and stunningly honeyed and syrupy texture with sublime concentration! Further impressions of cannabis oils and things like white truffle, dried mint and quince jelly. Little wonder they'd have selected this beauty for their 50 years in the industry series. What's great is that the vibrancy and freshness of the nose is matched in this way on the palate as well, a 50 year old whisky that is simultaneously every bit its age, while also retaining many assets of younger whiskies, in particular this sense of freshness and precision of flavour. Finish: medium, on wormwood, slightly sappy notes, aged sauternes, mixed citrus peels, fruit salad juices and exotic fruit teas full of runny honey. Comments: deadly! 
SGP: 651 - 92 points. 

CRN57 12 Year Old Blended Malt (43%, Gordon & MacPhail for The Cairn, 2023)  
Colour: pale gold. Nose: leafy and easy modern sherried malt whisky. Raisins, sultanas, milk chocolate and digestive biscuits all over the shop, a tiny firmness of wood spice in the background but overall well balanced and extremely approachable. Mouth: again this feeling of elegant dark fruits, chocolate and a backbone of slightly spicier aspects that feel more wood derived. I think the 43% works very well to knit all this together here, even if the overall result is a rather simple and direct whisky - which I suspect was the intention. Finish: medium, a little oilier and sappier than expected, still some nice fig and sultana notes lingering. Comments: simple, easy tumbler juice for anyone who likes easy, clean, sherried malt whisky. 
SGP: 551 - 84 points. 

CRN57 18 Year Old Blended Malt (43%, Gordon & MacPhail for The Cairn, 2023)  
Apparently a mix that includes Tamdhu and unseated Benromach… Colour: pale amber. Nose: I'm sorry, but this is some sort of early 1990s batch of Macallan 18yo, is it not? A really surprisingly old school quality, full of plummy sherry, soft waxy notes, wee herbal teas and lots of mulchy earthiness that involves rather a lot of damp tobaccos, dark chocolate and heather honey. Hard to imagine that anyone would fail to be charmed by this profile. Mouth: wonderfully precise and bright sherry, minty, slightly leather, herbal, honeyed, a tad waxy, extremely deft, balanced and playful, with an overall easiness and lightness which is really impressive. Goes on with some notes of aged calvados and eucalyptus, and in time becomes increasingly mentholated and even shows a little rancio. Finish: good length, rather long in fact, very nicely herbal, a touch of leafy bitterness and peppery warmth, some ruby ales and notes of dried tarragon and honey. Comments: I find this extremely impressive, and you have to wonder at just what component within this mix is creating this older style aspect? Probably the Benromach I would imagine. I can't help but be reminded of some old Macallan 18yo batches. Highly recommended and if I did bang for your buck selections on WF, then this would probably be my pick for this month. 
SGP: 561 - 90 points. 

CRN57 30 Year Old Blended Malt (51.9%, Gordon & MacPhail for The Cairn, 2023)  
Colour: deep amber. Nose: once again, it's hard not to think of old Macallan. This one definitely delivers more along the lines of what you are likely expecting: figs, rancio, menthol tobaccos and many subtle fruit notes such as sultana, bruised apple, pears baked in honey and quince. Very rich, extremely on this old school, heavy sherry profile and also quite brilliant. With water: marzipan, tangerine, more general boozy dark fruit vibes and touches of aniseed and camphor. Mouth: excellent! Perfectly balanced between dark fruits, spices, wormwood and various other herbal notes that verge on the medicinal. Roasted walnuts, fruity black coffee and many wee hints of mint,  dried cranberry and boozy Dundee fruit cake. Really a profile that belongs more to the 1970s or 1960s than today. With water: goes up a notch further! Wonderful mix of peppery waxes, dried mint, tea tree oils, slightly umami notes such as anchovy paste, black olive, truffle and dried citrus peels. Also some superbly earthy, aged teas. Finish: long, on bitter dark chocolate and mint tea, eucalyptus, rancio and toasted walnuts. Comments: it's dark and 30 years old, but this profile doesn't really compute to our expectation of modern whisky making and modern sherry casks I would say. Did they put some very old low ABV sherry casks in the mix? Probably only G&M can produce this kind of profile in this day and age I would guess. Anyway, this is extremely impressive, I had it at 90 but a few drops of water propelled it a notch higher. 
SGP: 561 - 91 points. 

CRN57 70 Year Old Blended Malt (43.2%, Gordon & MacPhail for The Cairn, 2023)  
Once again, for this one, I've been told Glen Grant is one of the components, but not too sure on the other part. I'd also add that doing a 70 year old blended malt is very, very cool, certainly better than tipping such stocks into a blend and selling it packaged inside a Tesla, or whatever… Colour: coppery gold. Nose: what I find immediately striking, is that this feels very much like it belongs to the 'pre-1950s' G&M style, which is to say old style American oak transport sherry casks, which give this profoundly beautiful mix of coconut, tropical fruit and myriad aromas of cedar wood, waxes, pollens and flower nectars to the aroma. It's a style that so many of G&M's bottlings from these batches have expressed over the years, at varying ages and strengths, and even now, at 70+years in these casks, the same profile is still so clear and so intense and so vital, which is really just incredible. This one is really all about stunning combinations of waxes, honeys, dried flowers, eucalyptus, dried exotic fruits and aged teas. You also wonder if there is peated malt, deep, deep down in the mix here, that has broken down over time to contribute to this stunningly subtle medicinal aspect to the profile. Overall, another of these hypnotic, extremely old malts that expresses a very typical profile from this era that is notably different to what came in the following decades. Mouth: an entire beehive! Incredibly honeyed and riddled with pollens, nectars, tiny notes of dried mushrooms, mint, tiger balms, medicinal herbs and pure beeswax. Obviously old, which seems silly to say, but it is 'old' in the best possible sense, there's no sense of aggression or lopsided dominance from the wood. The impressions is rather one of concentration and thickness in the mouth, syrupy and waxy-textured distillate with the sweetness and viscosity of honey, the tannin of earthy dark tea and the feeling of many and varied crystallised and preserved fruits, but particularly exotic ones. Really an experience that sits quite apart from most other 'old' malt whiskies I would say. For example, I'm not sure you'd be able to get a 70yo malt of this vibrancy, from the same cask type as the 57yo we just tried. Finish: wonderfully long, glowing with yet more honeys, waxes, preserved exotic fruits, teas, medicines and herbal touches. The aftertaste really just goes on and on. Comments: I find it extremely cool, and even rather touching, that they would create a 70 year old blended malt like this. Mind you, I'm not sure there are any other companies that even could, let alone would. Now, it's very expensive of course, and comes in a bottle you could club a Velociraptor to death with, but if we're talking expensive things to drink in terms of sheer quality, I'd swap you an entire container of Macallan 1926 for one bottle of this old beauty.
 SGP: 662 - 93 points.