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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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August 13, 2023 |
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A few more grand Armagnacs
for samurais and sweet persons |
For the general public, the reputation of Armagnac is that it is more rustic than Cognac. However, in reality, judging by the quality and styles of those that reach the door of WF HQ, this is not the case at all. But it is true that for some reason, only the finest examples make their way to us, as we should realise once more today...
Bittersweet magazine ad from the 1980s with a tender, moving headline: "Armagnac, it's not always those who make it who drink it."
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Oh, while we're at it, let's kick this off with a little example of aging and maturation that doesn't happen in oak. Many believe that any spirits can only evolve positively when housed in wood but that's not the case with many distillates, such as rums, mezcals, eaux-de-vie or, for that matter, some 'blanches'. We really need to break the myth that only aging in oak can improve a spirit. |
Update about the old ad: I just realised that the copywriter made our dear old Alphonse live up to the ripe old age of 95, which was rare in the 19th century. Ah, those clever admen! |
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Domaine de Baraillon 2020/2022 'Eau de Vie de Folle Blanche' (50.2%, Swell de Spirits) 
Love that 'boom!' This baby from Bas-armagnac was first matured in a stainless-steel tank for one year, then for one more year in a demijohn. It is not, indeed, proper armagnac. Colour: white. Another myth: white = unaged, golden/brown = aged. Nose: touches of raw sugar at first, then roots, peel and leaves. Apple peel, asparagus, parsnips, grape pips indeed, then touches of juniper, lemon zests, tonic water… At some point you would almost think it is some unusually complex gin. Quite some caraway too. With water: water does not actually change it much. Mouth (neat): some French pisco, perhaps? More sweet roots (beets), then indeed, caraway, aquavit… With water: water further brings out the lemonness, which would make this baby even more gin-like (if I may, Mister Bottler). Finish: rather long, and even more on 'modern gin'. Comments: it's true that folks usually drink these 'blanches' on ice, rather than neat. It grew on me. It is not 'grappa-y'. By the way, with friends we've been distilling white spirits every year for thirty years. We now keep them for at least five or six years in demijohns before we let them go and I can tell you that they improve mucho, as long as 'they see no light'.
SGP:561 - +/-85 points. |
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Domaine Bordeneuve 10 yo 2012 (49.8%, Zero Nine Spirits, Samurai series, Bas-armagnac)
Stunning artwork once more. They should bottle some Shizuoka! Bordeneuve have a superb terroir in Eauze, but I haven't tried many. Their little VSOP is very good. Colour: gold. Nose: fresh fruits, apples, papayas, a tiny bit of pineapple, peaches, touch of lavender, touch of violet, pack of liquorice allsorts, a little white muscat and lychee, some lovely vanilla… Well, I believe this nose is perfect. Mouth: boisterously fruity, with a wee grittiness (but after all this is young armagnac), some custard, raisin rolls and amaretti, this funny touch of muscat once more – they don't secretly grow muscat, do they – and peach skins. Finish: medium, with a little more vanilla, which would add a faint bourbon touch, while the liquorice allsorts are back in the aftertaste, with even a very tiny grain of salt. Comments: entirely impeccable, without the 'pruney' notes that you would usually find in many young Armagnacs from large houses.
SGP:651 - 87 points. |
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Domaine de Baraillon 2011/2021 'Folle Blanche' (49%, OB, Bas-armagnac) 
Colour: pure shiny gold. Nose: crushed overripe bananas, custard, golden sultanas, Sauternes, preserved peaches, three rose petals, a drop of hippie perfume (right, patchouli)… All we need now is just a little Jefferson Airplane and/or Grateful Dead. Awesome fresh and vibrant young armagnac on the nose. Wait, not Sauternes, rather sweet Pacherenc as that's stemming from the pays d'Armagnac. Mouth: obviously not as polished as the older ones, but it's already got much complexity and, beyond and above everything, these ripe tropical fruits that are so, well, I was about to write 'sexy'. Finish: long, with oranges chiming in, some kind of drier tiple-sec, and some vanilla cream in the aftertaste, with just a little pinch of chilli as the signature. Comments: perfect folle blanche (which, by the way, you could not translate as 'mad white', Mr AI).
SGP:641 - 88 points. |
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Darroze 18 yo 2004/2022 Domaine Duporté (47.5%, OB, Bas-armagnac, Le Frêche, Kirsch Import, 320 bottles)
This is integrally baco, by the way I believe baco is the only old 'American hybrid' that's still allowed in France, but not too sure about that, please don't quote me. I know old friends from down there used to say that if you drink too much baco wine, you'll go crazy (or blind). Le Frëche is located in the Landes. Colour: full gold. Nose: we're more on complex honeys, herbal teas and flowers here, such as dandelions early in the morning (before the bees have plundered the nectar), borage… There's more and more mead then, great old chardonnay, more honey (white heather – not the whiskies, ha)… Mouth: pretty potent and 'thick', very good, with very nice touches of piney oak (mizunara? I am joking, pigs will fly and chicken have teeth before they use mizunara in Armagnac). Ripe peaches and nectarines then, black tea, some tobacco and liquorice… Finish: this time again we'll find triple sec, plus more deep-dried raisins. Passerillage or 'appassimento'. The aftertaste is more peppery and, well, a little woody. Comments: excellent, just have one more sip before reaching the aftertaste (S., WF wouldn't endorse such a lousy tip).
SGP:661 - 87 points. |
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L'Encantada 1996/2023 'Lous Mouracs' (52.7%, Journal des Kirsch, Kirsch Import, Edition Nr 1, Ténarèze) 
Old folks around those places used to say that Ténarèze was armagnac for proper men, but indeed that was totally stoopid; what they were meaning was that it was a tad more rustic and virile than others. Anyway, it doesn't seem like anyone has ever been canceled down there, as far as I can tell. Yet. Having said that, L'Encantada AND Kirsch sounds a bit like Page AND Clapton to me. Colour: gold. Nose: easy, peaches in all their states plus apricots in all their states. And a spoonful of orange blossom honey. Easy. With water: hints of parsley and thyme, plus those easy peaches and apricots, plus touches of turmeric and dried porcini powder. A little more power. Mouth: (neat): indeed it is rather full-bodied on the palate, spicy, leafy, even a little brutal while the nose would have suggested otherwise. Not so easy, after all. With water: some rusticity, earthiness, mushrooms indeed, a little muscovado, turmeric, ginger, even flints, pine needles, fruit peel… Finish: long, a tad more drying, with more earth. A little menthol and liquorice wood in the aftertaste. Comments: exactly a Ténarèze, as I was having them in mind. Delta blues vs. big-city blues. Love it, actually, but you need to factor the fact that it is, well, a Ténarèze.
SGP:561 - 90 points. |
Please another 1996, from Bas-armagnac this time, for due comparison… |
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Bas-armagnac 26 yo 1996/2023 (52%, Grosperrin for Zero Nine Spirits, Samurai series)
We've already tried some excellent Armagnacs from Grosperrin's, the Sponge had some, for example. Whoever knows how to release sublime cognacs will likely be able to do marvelous armagnacs, I suppose (who said that?) Colour: translucid amber. Nose: oh, something completely different. Think a pack of old figs, some rancio, an old tobacco pouch and a few old pipes while we're at it, some leather, touches of cabbage, a family-pack of prunes, sloes… It rather feels antique, as if this was a very old bottle. With water: coffee and tobacco, at the club back then. Mouth (neat): excellent old-school armagnac, appropriately gritty at first, then very 'tertiary', with many dried fruits, chiefly figs. Prunes, dates, some glazed ham, chestnut purée… With water: ultra-classic armagnac, this time meatier. Foie gras with bits of truffle. No, really. Finish: medium, rather a little fat, herbal and always meaty, this time coated with honey. Oh and truffle. And with some tobacco. Comments: I think we're getting there. This one reminds me of Macallan's rebottled old vintages (from G&M's).
SGP:562 - 89 points. |
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Lous Pibous 27 yo 1995/2023 (54.7%, Grape Of The Art, Armagnac Now, Bas-armagnac, cask #150, 352 bottles)
This is folle blanche. But Armagnac Now? hope this won't be Apocalypse Now. Colour: red tea. Nose: yet another style, this time on varnish, fresh-sawn hardwoods, bourbon (Pappies and others), black raisins, the moistest pumpernickel, chocolates… I think we might have flown over the 90-mark. With water: it could have been an old sherry monster from Speyside indeed, but for a tenth of the price. Mouth (neat): old Glen Grant by G&M. Like the 1950s. It's very woody, but it is mentholy, piney oak, which we do enjoy a lot. Camphor, cough syrup at cask strength, varnish (that's right)… With water: superlatively conservative as far as flavours go. See what I mean? Oak, black Assam, 90%-chocolate, dark tobacco… In short it's all pretty black. Finish: very long, pretty oaky, superbly so. Big liquorice and menthol. Comments: almost Christlike if you enjoy this heavy yet supreme kind of oakiness, which is not an obligation (thank God!) Having said that, it feels like 50 years old.
SGP:572 - 91 points. |
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Bas-Armagnac 48 yo 1974/2023 (51.2%, Liquid Treasures, Session No1, Birds & Arts Series, puncheon)
Heeeey, please do not export all our best casks! Having said that, it's more sensible to export casks of brandy than warplanes and landmines, if you ask me… The estate is secret this time. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it's an easy one and it is perfect. It's full of ripe peaches, preserved apricots, mature cantaloupes, stronger honeys, raisins, panettone, liquorice allsorts once more, dates and figs… What's also funny is that it would feel younger than the gloriously monstrous Lous Pibous. With water: ripe peaches in full majesty. Mouth (neat): totally good for a while (stewed fruits, oranges, raisins and jams) but it would then become a tad too piney and tobacco-y for my taste, that's the old age and wood. With water: wow, water makes wonders, erases any excessive woodiness (it's the other way 'round in general), and brings out bags of raisins and dried figs. It is not the Riemann hypothesis, but a little simplicity in our spirits does no bad (in language too). Finish: medium, jammy, full of raisins and soft dried fruits. Comments: just lovable. Wee death-seat effect after the Lous Pibous.
SGP:641 – 89 points. |
A really old one now, from the time of Page and Clapton indeed… |
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Château de Gaube 56 yo 1966/2023 (45.8%, Grosperrin for Zero Nine Spirits, Bas-armagnac)
100% baco (that wine that drives you mad, allegedly) and with one of those glorious labels. I mean, after you've downed your bottle you could just peel off the label and get it framed. Colour: deep gold. Nose: It got softer over the years, gentler, with many dried fruits, especially pears, some cedarwood and a little incense, and dates and Turkish delights. It's rather a whisperer this far, as we sometimes say, all in delicacy (talking 'bout this old armagnac, of course not about us at WF). Mouth: it's absolutely charming, but perhaps already in the veteran category. Fig wine, old late-harvest wine, raisins, a little caramel and a little praline, some tobacco, tea, old fir bud liqueur, edible flowers… Charming, it's really charming indeed. Finish: not too long, this time with a little more cedar, pine and fir, then raisins and dates. Comments: rather chamber music than the Berliner Philharmoniker. Great chamber music though.
SGP:551 - 88 points. |
Why not a little bonus, quickly? |
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Domaine de Béoulaygue 1950 (43%, OB, Georges Pelat, Bas-armagnac, +/-1975)
An old bottle. You never know with these old bottles… This Domaine is located in the Landes, while these bottles used to be distributed by the famous house Gélas. I don't think the estate still exists as such. Colour: deep amber. Nose: all on heather honey and cedarwood, you'd almost believe you've just cracked open a new box of Cuban puros. Figs and cherry jam are rounding this off. Mouth: oh wowowow, not a dead old bottle for sure, even if it probably got a tad too figgy. Not talking about whacky pudding here. Raisins, very old sweet wines, Sauternes, some caramel (it did not go dry at all), dates filled with marzipan, quince jelly, a little maraschino, candy sugar… It just gets a tad syrupy, whereas others would tend to become dry and, sometimes, cardboardy. Which, in truth, would suggest it got a little 'enhanced' in the 'kitchen' on a 'Sunday morning'. I know what I'm trying to say. Finish: medium, rounded, honeyed and full of raisins. Comments: Georges Pelat used to own, raise and racehorses, that's why there is the head of a horse on the label. Several landowners and Armagnac growers used to raise either racing horses or fighting bulls in the old days – I used to have some in my family. Not bulls, mind you.
SGP:641 – 88 points. |
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