A high-flying verticale of Armagnac part deux


January 29, 2023

A high-flying verticale of Armagnac

Partie Deux

A Ténarèze won it last week, but we had halted the festivities in 1976. Today we shall go on down starting from 1973 and try to jump over WWII once more.

( Early 20th Century advertising plate, Valdor)

Alfred Dubois-Lizée 1973 'Brigitte' (47.8%, Jack Tar, Bas-Armagnac, single dame-jeanne from the barrel #445, 107 bottles, 2022)

Alfred Dubois-Lizée is an old cognac brand that seems to belong (or used to belong) to Tiffon. According to the back label, this armagnac stems from négociants J. Goudoulin in Courrensan. Connections between cognac and armagnac are absolutely not unseen. Colour: amber. Nose: rather old-school, rounded, mostly on raisins, with some coffee and dark chocolate, plus some dark tobacco (Gauloises Caporal, naturally) and old wood. Really old-school. Mouth: indeed, old-school, that is to say rather oak-driven, with once again a lot of coffee, dark tobacco and chocolate, plus preserved peaches and a little marmalade. The background is all on raisins. Finish: medium, sweet, on more raisins and clove, caraway and cinnamon in the aftertaste. Comments: all good. Some extremely traditional armagnac. Not too sure about when exactly it was 'demijohnned' and how old it is.
SGP:631 - 85 points.

Baron de Sigognac 1972/2022 (44.5%, Old Master Spirits, Bas-Armagnac, 151 bottles, 2022)

Some armagnac by the famous house Bordeneuve. The bottlers in Australia told me that, I quote, "The Baron was apparently quite a unique individual so they hold on to this piece of history quite fondly". This is single-estate and 80% baco plus 20% ugni blanc. It is technically a 39 years old, which is the time it spent in wood before it's been transferred to demi-johns for 10 further year of 'mellowing' (my words). Colour: amber. Nose: love it, it's displaying rooty notes, which I always worship. Wild carrots, parsnips, gentian, beetroot, all that coated with a rich sauce made out of caramel, corn syrup and butterscotch. Sprinkle with a little amontillado and just a tiny touch of cologne, and voilà. You may add bits of well-hung grouse and very old syrah. Mouth: splendid, starting from that syrah (at random, La Chapelle) or why not Australian shiraz (at random, Grange) but that does not mean that it's reeking of red wine, au contraire. More classic notes then, prunes, cassis, maple syrup, marmalade, dried figs, touch of sandalwood… The body's perfect. Finish: medium, more roasted and toffeeish, chocolaty as well, with raisins and goji. Spicier aftertaste (cinnamon etc.) Comments: it's got this 'rustic' side that you would expect from a proper armagnac. In short, perfectly authentic old armagnac 'from the countryside'. Love it.
SGP:651 - 91 points.

Alfred Dubois-Lizée 1965 'Paul' (43.4%, Jack Tar, Bas-Armagnac, single dame-jeanne from the barrel #403, 60 bottles, 2022)

No need to tell you that dame-jeanne means demijohn. Strange that it went from feminine in French to masculine in English, no? This one too stems from Veuve J. Goudoulin. Colour: dark amber. Nose: curiously fresher and more floral, fruity and honeyed than 'Brigitte', in that sense more 'modern'. Broom, dandelions, other yellow flowers… Also ripe quinces and mirabelles, some earthy tones, celeriac… Absolutely lovely. Mouth: perfect brightness, this is almost some old Champagne (no bubbles though), with a brioche-y side and more quinces and mirabelles, jujubes, honeysuckle, clover flowers… Didn't you use to suck on clover flowers while you were a kid? Finish: medium, fresh, floral and gently sweet. Some toffee too. Comments: very good, easy, gentle, sweeter. It kept its freshness impeccably.
SGP:641 - 90 points.

Alfred Dubois-Lizée 1963 'Jane' (46.2%, Jack Tar, Bas-Armagnac, single dame-jeanne from the barrel #406, 80 bottles, 2022)

Colour: amber. Nose: some kind of blend of the 1973 and 1965, with both some fruity and floral freshness and rather more 'old oak' than in the 1963. That makes it a little traditional again, with some coffee and dark tobacco, but stewed red peaches and even blood oranges would bring their joy, while some liquorice is lurking in the middle distance. Some heather honey too. It is a splendid combination. Some oloroso. Mouth: exactly the same feeling, some old wood plus some lively jams and jellies, all in sync. More blood oranges and other citrus (proper lime, not hose small green lemons), apples, plus chocolate and tobacco. Excellent. Finish: medium, with a little caramel, honey, and the inevitable raisins. A little menthol and liquorice in the aftertaste. Comments: to be honest, those style were pretty much out of fashion only ten years, but people seem to be seeking authenticity again. They say the people are always right!
SGP:641 - 90 points.

Domaine de Bigor 1963 (46%, LMDW, Version Française, armagnac, cask #404, 301 bottles, 202)

The Domaine de Bigor used to belong to the house Goudoulin in the past. The cask number here, which is extremely close to that of the 'Jane', would suggest that that one was actually a Domaine de Bigor as well, but that's pure conjecture. Besides it doesn't say so but this is probably Bas-Armagnac, a.k.a. Armagnac Noir (black armagnac). Colour: reddish amber. Nose: almost the same indeed, just a notch more peppery (cracked pepper) and a little more on coffee. The Gauloises are back too and would come together with oak leaves. Mouth: almost undistinguishable from the 1963 'Jane' on the palate. You could drink five litres of each to try to find tiny difference and nuances, and that would end in disaster. Finish: same. Comments: another exquisite 1963.
SGP:641 – 90 points.

Alfred Dubois-Lizée 1934 'Claude' (44.2%, Jack Tar, Bas-Armagnac, single dame-jeanne from the barrel #477, 88 bottles, 2022)

A large part of my family was born in 1934 and so it's a vintage that I've tried several times. Pommard, Gevrey, Pauillac… ;-). This time again, it is Veuve Goudoulin stock. Colour: dark reddish amber. Nose: roses, violets, broom, wisteria. Indeed, it starts floral, the freshness being just incredible, as if it had been demijohnned pretty early. Extraordinary whiffs of raspberry ganache, old-style lady's perfume (we often quote Joy de Patou), then marmalades of many kinds, orange, lemon, pomelos, citron, then a little incense, sandalwood, cigar box (tobacco and cedarwood), a hint of jamon iberico, certainly some heather honey, quite possibly some gentian, some high-end coffee… Wow wow wow. Mouth: game set and match. An orgy of stewed fruits, many spices, some rarer spices (saffron for sure) and an incredible floral side, simply leading to some old Sauternes from one of the greatest châteaux. There's one that I've tried only three weeks ago, Sigalas Rabaud 1960. A very rare vintage given that the reputation's always been bad, but this very Château did wonders. Anyway… Finish: medium, still fresh, with some polished oak and quite some tobacco. May I quote Gauloises for the very last time today? I promise. Comments: this is not a spirit; this is pure poetry.
SGP:561 - 92 points.

Check the index of all armagnac we've tasted so far