A new world session


June 22, 2023

A new world session (France Denmark Finland England Spain)

Picture: Distillery Liber, Granada, Spain (Liber)

Just visiting several whisky countries – but all countries have become whisky countries, more or less – starting from France as usual. It is true that as the dear Scots use more and more wine casks and other peculiar finishings, techniques that are within reach of any distillery in the world, their uniqueness could tend to diminish more and more. Who is more legitimate to use, for example tequila casks, a Scottish distillery or a brand new Mexican whisky maker? Fortunately, it takes a lot of water to make whisky...

Aikan 2017/2022 'Petit Lot' (46%, La Maison du Whisky, Version Française)

This funny one has been distilled in Lorraine, France (most probably at currently expanding Rozelieures), and matured in Martinique, France, but not in a rhum cask. So in a way, there is some coherence… Colour: light gold. Nose: it is very fragrant, with some raisins and ylang-ylang, roasted bananas, rose petals, lemongrass, softer liquorice, anise bread, wisteria… It is a little unusual, but that's an asset I would say. Mouth: some spicy and sweet oak, probably pretty fresh, liquorice and green oak, and green oak honey, honeydew… I'm also finding rather a lot of pepper and even touches of chilli, but thank God, not these ultra-strong ones they use in Martiniquaise cuisine, such as bird pepper. Love that, but perhaps not in my whisky. Finish: long and spicy, rather oak-forward, with some grass smoke coming through at this point and which I hadn't noticed before. Ginger and cinnamon in the aftertaste. Comments: perhaps a little bit on the oaky side, but very good I think, unusual, intriguing… I hope they've kept some juice and filled a few refill casks for a few extra-years of polishing.
SGP:462 - 83 points.

Speaking of Mexican finishes… And since Pandora's Box has been opened by the Scots themselves…

Stauning 'Bastard Mezcal Finish Batch #2' (46.3%, OB, Denmark, 2022)

I believe this is predominantly rye. Well, they call it 'Bastard' themselves, that's showcasing plain, pure and laudable lucidity. Having said that we had enjoyed Batch #1 a while back (WF 83). Colour: gold. Nose: a lot of rye, perhaps some mezcal (but do the Mexicans mature a lot of mezcal in wood?) and surely some lavender, pine resin and liquorice. Lovely breadiness, as always, and something coastal, some light mentholy smoke or something. Also peach liqueur coming through. Mouth: a tad thick flavour-wise, but that's really all right, as I do enjoy these bready liquorice and aniseed, the juniper, the mezcal (olives, earth) and just the rye. I could quaff this for sure. Finish: rather long, more lemony. Sweet new oak. Lavender sweets and a little salt in the aftertaste, plus one olive. Comments: I should have had some un-mezcalled Stauning rye on the side to better isolate the mezcalness. Nobody's perfect. Rather a fan.
SGP:562 - 84 points.

Further North…

Teerenpeli 2009/2018 'Hilkka' (43%, OB, Finland, ex-Laphroaig cask)

Colour: straw. Nose: strange and fun. Smoked pineapple, perhaps, sourdough, some sweet bacon wrapping roasted pineapple, peppermint, and really a lot of lemony gin before a little gas and truffles come out of the woods (both figuratively and literally). Mouth: good feeling of lemon drops smoked over a peat fire. So a lot of lemon and rather a lot of peat. Right. Finish: medium, clear, lemony and smoky. A drop of seawater. Comments: Laphroaig did its job, not much else to say about this pretty good in-cask blend.
SGP:554 - 81 points.

To Yorkshire…

Filey Bay 2018/2023 'Madeira' (53.6%, OB for Whisky Bibliothek, England, cask #950, 288 bottles)

A 'Double Oak' has been pretty fantastic the other day. Colour: light gold. Nose: rather impressed with Filey Bay, I have to say. This one's got some lovely breads, doughs, pancakes, plus earthy root vegetables (from the Madeira?) and wild carrots, as well as touches of pink grapefruit, wine gums… Classic fresh maltiness, no obvious vinosity. With water: hints of metal polish, toolbox… always loved this. Mouth (neat): good, a rather exuberant fruitiness on the palate, with notes of lychees and pineapple, also mangos, honey, sweets, wine gum indeed, poppy jelly… With water: green tea and a little humus, which is lovely and calms everything down within seconds. Lime tea. Finish: medium, fresh, fruity, with some eucalyptus syrup. One small strawberry. Comments: I don't think they've just dumped the spirit into an old Madeira cask, there might have been some smart wood technology at play. The end result is pretty perfect, in my opinion.
SGP:651 - 87 points.

Last one, down to Spain…

Liber 15 yo 2006/2022 'El Diablito Sulfuroso' (58.7%, OB, The Cask Hound, Spain, old PX, cask #71, 320 bottles)

Scary but fully matured in that old PX cask. Some earlier Libers have been a tad difficult I think, but a recent 'Great Sherry Xperience Chapter 5' had been only wonderful (WF 87). Let's check this sulphurous little devil… Colour: deep gold with copper hues. Nose: where's that diabolic sulphur? This is all right! Granted, there is some Marmite, malt extract, sour wine, perhaps truffles indeed, even three or four struck matches, a lot of old rancio, pickled mushrooms, balsamic vinegar (do they make that too in Jerez?)… But it remains kind of civilised. Unless, with water: gets very gamey. Well-cured grouse, pheasant, ham… Also thick raisins, passerillage… Mouth (neat): extremely rich. Blackberry jam, clove and juniper sauce, smoky barbecue sauce, tobacco and, first and foremost, a lot of rancio indeed. Rather Malaga? With water: sweeter yet, ridden with all kinds of raisins, which works well here, actually. I had first thought it would move towards old armagnac, but it's rather tar liqueur and, indeed, old PX or VORS that are at the end of the road. Finish: long, thick, heavy, but with some lovely notes of pine liqueur, peppermint and camphor that would lift it and make it almost fresh. Kind of. Chocolate in the aftertaste. Comments: no one else is making this. Perhaps Millstone? It's challenging at times but all things considered, it is to be loved. And a little mad.
SGP:762 - 86 points.

(Thank you Henrik)