A trio of unpairable malts


July 3, 2023

A trio of unpairable malts

Ladyburn

Ladyburn Distillery, the stillhouse, early 1970s (William Grant & Sons/Forbes)

As you may know, we always try to compare similar whiskies, especially whiskies from the same distillery. We believe that's the best way of letting nuances and subtleties come out, but it's also a difficult method when the whiskies are rare, or even tremendously rare. Indeed many names have become almost extinct, for example when the distilleries were closed a long time ago, or when they've always been very rare, which is the case with one of the whiskies we'll have today. In fact, I always try to keep one expression that I haven't tasted yet for each and every distillery, in case a new one would turn up, but with Glenlochy, Glen Mhor or indeed Ladyburn, I'm afraid that's become useless as even old bottlings that we haven't tried yet are nowhere to be found these days. That's why I've decided to bundle these three wee whiskies today… In desperation! (quite)

Glen Mhor 38 yo 1965/2000 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail, licensed bottling, screw cap)

We'll be cautious, as some of these Glen Mhors have been a little difficult in the past. It's a big, dirty distillate that does not always stand heavy reduction, in my experience, but we're mainly talking about younger expressions bottled in the 1980s, for example. Having said that, the old official 'Jura-shaped' 10 years old was superb, and Valentino Zagatti's favourite tipple. The new enthusiast may like to know that the Inverness distillery got closed in 1983 and demolished in 1988. This very one was distilled when Glen Mhor was still independently owned, and while they were still using their Saladin maltings. G&M have bottled several 1965s at various ages throughout the years (early 1990s till mid 2000s). Let us proceed… Colour: golden amber. Nose: bingo, typical black earth, roasted chestnuts, old kettle and stove, fresh mushrooms of all kinds, soot, coffee and dark tobacco, black teas, old woods, old books, dried parsley… You'd almost believe you've entered an old antique shop in China. It's wonderful on the nose, but the palate will tell us more, especially if it did not get weakish. Well, according to the nose, the answer might be 'no'. Mouth: weird. It's a profile that's nowhere to be seen anymore these days, with rather a lot of polish, even soap, also bonbons, also dried mushrooms, coffee and tobacco, orangettes, even some yoghurt, more parsley, more soot, some ashes, some kind of meaty toffee, treacle pudding… In fact it rather stands the 40% vol. Finish: medium, saltier, with some kind of coal smoke, more tobacco and black tea, beef bouillon, ramen… The finish is lovely. Comments: a very dry whisky that the honest man (and woman) should have tried at least once. What a useless conclusion, I do agree.
SGP:462 - 89 points.

Next one, Glenlochy.

Glen Lochy 15 yo 1967/1982 (92 U.S. proof, Cadenhead, black dumpy, 75cl)

Mind you, we haven't even tasted thirty Glenlochy/Glen Lochy in our entire life. It was the other distillery in Fort William and, at some point, it was sharing Ben Nevis' owner Joseph Hobbs. It closed in 1983 just like Glen Mhor, while the largest part of the distillery was demolished later on, the other part becoming flats (wouldn't we all love to live in an ex-distillery?) It is to be said that we've tried several utterly stupendous Glenlochies by Signatory Vintage in the past, especially the extraordinary 1965 'Silent Stills'. Just like, for example Glenugie, Glenlochy's become totally cult these days, but pretty much, paradoxically, virtually unknown. Us bloggers haven't done our job! Oh and I've never tasted any Glen Lochy by CAD, so this is a first after so many years… Colour: white wine. Nose: get-out-of-here. Amazing lemons, aspirin tablets, chalk, grist, grapefruits, this sooty coal ala Ben Nevis indeed, high-end sauvignon blanc, old cough medicine, camphor, bandages, blood oranges… There is some old-Laphroaigness in there, think the old white 10s. What a nose, who's kept the moulds? Mouth: there is this tiny metallic soapiness that's quite common in many old 'black dumpies' by Cadenhead, which is no problem. It's also lost a little power it seems, but the core remains exceptionally citrusy and waxy, with old liqueurs, chartreuse, some lemongrass, fresh peppermint, a feeling of linseed oil, and a growing noble chalkiness. I would suppose they've used barley grown around the Montrachet (but of course). Finish: amazingly compact, tight, yet fat, waxy, chalky, lemony. Comments: top of the tops within this gorgeous old distillate-driven style. We expect the new distilleries to revive it! Astounding bottle by Wm. Cadenhead of Aberdeen.
SGP:652 - 93 points.

And we said Ladyburn…

Ladyburn 45 yo 1973/2018 (45.5%, OB, William Grant's Rare Cask Reserves, Velier 70th Anniversary, cask #3183, 93 bottles)

This is very rare, in truth Ladyburn was already rare when we started Whiskyfun, even if some indies have then come out under the name 'Rare Ayrshire' or 'Ayrshire'. We've already tried some official 1973s having said that, as owners William Grant had issued some in the year 2000. Mixed feelings at that time but this incredible official 45 years old might be something else. As for the short-lived Ladyburn distillery, it was built withing Girvan grain distillery in 1963, ceased production in 1975 and was dismantled in 1976. I only saw a picture of the stills once, in dear Peter Hofmann's stunning book 'Whisky Die Enzyklopödie', sadly nur auf Schwyzerdütsch (but not the pictures!) UPDATE: William Grant released another picture just last year, see introduction. Oh and of course, we're in the Lowlands here… Colour: gold. Nose: incredibly fresh and vibrant, thanks to some very well-behaved refill wood, I would suppose. Think ripe bananas, papayas, spearmint, touch of fruity varnish/strawberries, sauna oils, almond paste, fresh putty, marzipan (Mozart Kugeln), then raisins, late-harvest pinot gris, quinces, baklavas, orange blossom water, very old cognac, vine peaches… By Jove, this is endless! Mouth: some mentholy oak at first, as in almost all very old spirits, but that's absolutely not detrimental to the amazing citrus and tarter tropical fruits that would then appear one after the other. Also many herbal teas looping back around to the gracious old oak, chamomile, thyme, cinnamon and aniseed, melissa, green tea… It would then get a little more piney and resinous, still very gracefully. Finish: medium, with some rather sublime cough medicine, old Bénédictine, lime juice… And cognac. Comments: the convergence of really old spirits always dazzles. After all, the best ones will outlive us. Bravo William Grant and bravo Velier!
SGP:661 - 92 points.

Right, we'll try to do more 'unpairable' sessions in the coming months, but please don't hold your breath. Perhaps Convalmore vs. Glenugie vs. Old Clynelish, what do you say?

You may also check this admirable website all about Glen Mhor.

(With thanks to KC, to LMDW and to Whisky Bibliothek)