A vertical septet of single grains


June 21, 2023

A vertical septet of single grains
(some frankly crazy)

A few years ago I used to be afraid 'single grain' whiskies would invade the shelves, counting on the fact that for the general public, the important word is 'single,' without even mentioning the growing use of regional terms such as Highland or Lowland. Let's admit that 'Highland Single Grain Whisky' has a ring to it! It's good news, if you ask me, that there was no grain distillery in Speyside last time I checked, or, of course, on the Isle of Islay.

But I had worried for nothing; things seem to remain under control, and grain still represents a small minority among the coveted 'single' whiskies. So, let's taste a selection with a light-hearted spirit... (and yes, some grains are excellent!)

North British 13 yo 2009/2023 (46%, Signatory Vintage for Kirsch Import, bourbon barrel, casks #260481 to 260484)

Not too sure they were still distilling only maize in 2009. Not certain we could tell anyway… Colour: pale white wine. Nose: not that much on marshmallows and sweet varnish, I'm rather finding some intriguing notes of white asparagus, Jerusalem artichokes, aguardiente (Cuban-style), or bison vodka. Only in the background, a little grated coconut and a curious smokiness (burning papers, barbecue). Mouth: same feeling, this is not some Scottish Jack Daniel's at all, there's even a kind of malty firmness to it, some smoke indeed (and cigarette ashes), touches of williams pear Schnaps, a little popcorn, sesame seeds, Japanese rice crackers… Finish: medium, dry, herbal, rooty. Not a liquid bonbon for sure, even if the aftertaste would be sweeter. Berry eau-de-vie, sorb perhaps, elder… Comments: surprise surprise !
SGP:562 - 85 points.

Port Dundas 22 yo (57.1%, Watt Whisky, Taiwan Exclusive, barrel, 2023)

Colour: white wine. Nose: it is a sweeter one, much more on nougat, vanilla fudge, coconut balls, white chocolate, biscuits… But once again, it is not liquid marshmallows (or Red Bull vodka, ha). A little hay, always pleasant. With water: gets more vegetal, grassy, with touches of glue (model glue) but in moderation. Perhaps a little Bakelite/old car (from the 1960s). Mouth (neat): creamy, sweet, with some pear and pineapple liqueurs, some hay jelly, blancmange, more nougat yet… With water: sweet citrus coming through. Finish: medium, with more nougat. Perhaps even fresh croissants. Comments: these grains can take a lot of water, this one should be good with some (Taiwanese) dim - sum. Like it better than many other Port Dundas.
SGP:641 – 84 points.

Cambus 31 yo 1991/2022 (58.4%, The Whisky Cask Company, bourbon hogshead, 267 bottles)

Did you know that Cambus was also making malt in the beginnings? It was closed in 1993 and then became Diageo's rather fascinating new cooperage plant. We visited it not too long ago, it's quite incredible. Anyway, this is one of the last Cambus Grains… Colour: white wine. Nose: back to a more herbal, rather more austere style, with also sour fruits (white cherries) and indeed fresh-mown lawn, liquorice wood, broken branches, a little charcoal… With water: sweet maize, chocolate, nougat, fudge… All that, plus hay and dried herbs. That's the part I always prefer. Mouth (neat): some readymade Cuban mojito. Indeed, rum, lime, mint… and no soda water. It is particularity citrusy and our friend limoncello would also make an appearance. With water: gentle, sweet, with moe coconut and nougat. Finish: medium, sweet. White chocolate and sweet maize. Comments: it could have been one of those casks they were using to season their first fill bourbon barrels before filling them with their precious malts. Because not too long ago, the game was to have less oak influence rather than more oak influence, mind you. Anyway, higher-class grain once more.
SGP:641 - 84 points.

We were also having this variation…

Cambus 33 yo 1989/2022 (62.7%, Alambic Classique, refill bourbon barrel, Laphroaig finish, cask #22063, 169 bottles)

This baby was finished for 3 years in Laphroaig wood so technically, they could have said 'matured in ex-Laphroaig wood', that would have been legit. Good ethos, Mr. Alambic Classique, let's check this wee 'in-cask blend' now… we know this could work. Colour: gold. Nose: the peater adds some rooty and medicinal notes, for sure, but given the high strength, let's take no chances. With water: just superb. Delicate smoky fruits and flowers, perfect integration, slight camphor, cough medicine, ointments, eucalyptus honey... Indeed, this is superb. Mouth (neat): you 'feel' it's good, and it isn't even a proper flame-thrower at almost 63% vol., but… With water: excellent. Citrusy smoke, herbs, old liqueurs (ever heard of Arquebuse?), some saltiness… Finish: not that long but perfect. Smoked lemons and grapefruits, should anyone ever decide to make that. A hint of bacon in the aftertaste. Comments: they could have used Lagavulin instead and go full UD/Diageo, no? I hope I won't get a letter (joking).
SGP:563 - 90 points.

Girvan 41 yo 1977/2018 (63.4%, OB, William Grant & Sons Rare Cask Reserves, Begnoni & Gargano private cask, cask #17048, 412 bottles)

Probably not just any Girvan, with Giuseppe and Luca behind it. Colour: dark amber. Nose: another lovely example of an old whisky that's moved towards both old rhum and old cognac. In truth it smells like the interior of an old Jag, with hardwood, leather, several layers of polish and just a few drops of old engine oil, plus old rags and some chocolate in the glove compartment. But where have we put the keys… With water: the most precious pipe tobacco and thousands of different herbs, some even unknow to Man (what?) Mouth (neat): thick as honey and indeed, close to some old rum, probably from Guyana, also perhaps to those stunning Very Old Fitzgerald bourbons. What's sure is that, let's be honest, I'd have never said 'grain whisky'. Even the insanely high strength doesn't quite feel. With water: did Girvan have a subsidiary along the Demerara River? And another one at Stitzel-Weller's in Louisville, Kentucky? Finish: long, brilliant, on coffees, honeys, chocolates, meaty extracts and more pipe tobacco. Comments: perhaps my favourite grain ever, have to check that when I have a chance.
SGP:562 - 93 points.

Ayrshire Single Grain 47 yo 1968/2015 (50.9%, OB, William Grant & Sons Rare Cask Reserves, Velier 70th Anniversary, cask #61669, 372 bottles)

This must be Girvan too, not too sure why the owners wouldn't have used the name, but don't we love a mystery? Unless I'm wrong the name/stencil 'Ayrshire' was usually rather used for embedded malt whisky Ladyburn. Colour: coffee. Nose: I don't quite know what to say. Good acetone and toffee in perfect sync. I think I'll have to cancel anything I have been writing about grain whisky for more than twenty years. This is sublimely tertiary, let me just mention a few aromas, say umeshu, Marmite, Partagas, umami, sticky toffee pudding, salmiak, new tyres… And so on. I think I'll have to remain seated after this one. With water: sublimely sublime. Extraordinary mentholy and liquoricy meatiness. Mouth (neat): incredible. Very old pre-Mao pu-her tea, pre-Castro cigars, and just myriads of acetic, varnishy, fruity, earthy, very tertiary flavours. With water: I'll say no more. Finish: and I try to keep my promises. Comments: gee, this is unjust, but it looks like the flabbergasting Girvan 1977 has remained my favourite grain whisky ever for only fifteen minutes.
SGP:563 - 94 points.

Not sure I should, but we said 'a vertical septet'…

Dumbarton 40 yo 1964 (52,1% Clan Denny, Hunter Hamilton, cask #HH1891, +/-2005)

A bottling by Douglas Laing. We've tried some older Dumbarton 1964 by 'the brothers' and some have been pretty awesome. The majestic (yet somewhat industrial) Dumbarton Distillery stopped working in 2002 and was demolished in 2005. Colour: gold. Nose: little death-seat effect, even if it's not quite as enthralling as the old official Girvans, this smoother, lighter, easier old Dumbarton remains lovely, on herbs and roots, celeriac, parsnips, wild carrots, with some macchiato in the background. Chicory coffee. With water: coconut water. I'm not sure this one should get reduced. Mouth (neat): typical varnish, mangos, vanilla, sour wood, pineapples… You would never say this baby's is 40, but it's doing its job. After all, it's Ballantine's, in a way. With water: all good, easy, with some presence, popcorn and nougat, some musty old wood perhaps, coconut… Finish: medium, on vanilla, cappuccino and 'old wood'. Nougat and coconut liqueur in the aftertaste, or Malibu. After all, Malibu's made by Pernod-Ricard too (but this Dumbarton wasn't made by them, I believe it was still Hiram Walker in 1964). Comments: very good, just not as complex as we would have expected. Now, after the Girvans…
SGP:551 - 86 points.

No Invergordon today, next time?

(With thanks to LMDW and Morten)

Check the index of all grain whiskies we've tasted so far