A very short verticale of Talisker


November 21, 2023

45 years vs 46 years,
a very short verticale of Talisker

The new Talisker 'Glacial Edge'. It's about ice but do not add any.

We have barely recovered from the exceedingly superlative Blair Castle 1833 and Longmorn 1897 that we tasted last Saturday. Imagine, the oldest authentic bottle of whisky in existence! It's surely far less bling than 'the new most expensive whisky in the world before the next one', don't you think? The sleight of hand at auctions with unique bottles which are so easy to self-flip so to speak (not saying that's what they're doing, but many people in arts are/were doing it) becomes more tiresome than yet a new Indiana Jones film. Anyway, let's move on and come to, if you will, the subject of our little tasting today, especially since Diageo have recently released two very old Taliskers one after the other…

Talisker 45 yo 'Glacial Edge' (49.8%, OB, Xpedition Oak series, 2,455 bottles, 2023)

Bottle in support of Parley and finished in ice fractured casks, that is to say in casks that have been kept in Arctic winds for 96 hours, which created cracks, thus extending the wood/spirit ratio. Not too sure that's 'traditional' by the SWA's standards, but it's good fun, it reminds me of that indie Highland Park that was finished on Mount Cervin in Switzerland. Colour: Gold. Nose: It's rather sweet, true to the character of the old Taliskers, with more camphor and aged balm than in the more recent vintages. This is followed by splendid notes of almond paste, fine oysters (the small flat ones), and roots, in particular wild carrot and gentian. There's also a bit of shoe polish and castor oil, as well as a soft and gentle tar. I have no idea what effect the finishing in 'iced casks' was meant to impart to this marvellous old Talisker, let's just say it's not obvious on the nose (no seal fat and very little dried fish, ha-ha). Mouth: Younger, perhaps it's the iced wood? Notes of grapefruit liqueur, banana, and vanilla at the start, but this modern profile quickly gives way to oysters, lemon, seaweed, sea water, salty spices, lemon balm, coriander seeds, sweet woodruff, and a bit of pine sap. The mouthfeel is perfect, with a wonderful texture. Finish: Long and really salty, it's almost as though they've submerged the casks in the ocean rather than exposing them to freezing temperatures. It seems they even added a few sardines and anchovies. Jokes aside, a superb finish that leads to an aftertaste of lemon marmalade and kippers. And salted bitter almonds. And lemon zest. And Italian bitters. Comments: A formidable old Talisker. As long as they mention ages and/or vintages, no problems with funny stories, they can go ahead, nothing really scares us (apart from the hackneyed but still used trick of the unlisted old cask found by chance in the warehouse - wink).
SGP:564 - 93 points.

Talisker 46 yo 1976/2022 (50.9%, OB, Prima & Ultima Fourth Release, American oak hogsheads, rested in Puncheons, 771 bottles, 2023)

The story here is that, instead of ice, glaciers and arctic winds, this baby's been exposed, when it was produced, to the heatwave that hit all of Europe in 1976, so it is believed to have had increased contact with the copper, possibly due to greater expansion. And why not? Colour: Gold. Nose: It's more rounded, with a focus on candied citrus, bergamot, kumquats, then glasswort and less salty, less coastal shellfish than the famous oysters that were abundant in the 45-year-old. Let's say clams, perhaps. However, the two old Taliskers then take turns leading in terms of salinity. I also find quite a bit of eucalyptus in this one; one could make luxurious inhalations from it. With water: It's really very close to the 45-year-old now, I just find a bit of sandalwood, even some rosewater. Just infinitesimal touches, of course. Also a bit of orange blossom water, it must be the puncheons. And even some fino... Mouth: It's really very close on the palate, maybe just a bit more bitter, woodier, spicier for a moment, but a commendable smoothness returns quickly. Very nice salinity, orange and lemon zest, various barks, a lot of quinine… With two or three drops of water: Beautiful candied fruits with sea salt, small brined lemons like the Italians do... Well, there you have it, it gained two points in my personal ranking, thanks to the water. Finish: long and more medicinal, with the usual slightly resinous and tarry edge. A tablespoonful of pepper liqueur, after all, this is a Talisker. Comments: If one wanted to decide on which is the best between these two marvels we would still be here at midnight. I wonder though if I don't prefer this 46-year-old just a tiny bit more; it's slightly fruitier, slightly more classic. But that's not enough to award an extra point. C'est la vie, as Greg Lake would have said.
SGP: 654 - 93 points.

Check the index of all Talisker we've tasted so far