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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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December 21, 2023 |
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A wee verticale of
older Benriach |
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| Speyside's Benriach (Benriach Distillery) |
Who doesn't remember the incredible old Benriach single casks that were launched by Billy Walker a few years back while the Distillery had remained rather quiet up until then (do you recall the white-labelled 10-year from the 1990s? Neither do I). Especially the unbelievable 1976 editions which, for the most part, just rocketed us towards the upper layers of the atmosphere. That's right, towards the stratosphere... But much water has flowed under the bridge since then, perhaps it's time for us to catch up. We'll avoid any young editions today, since after all, it's the festive season, but we'll soon taste them, Vishnu willing. I believe today we're going to sample four from the '90s, and then the latest official 40-year release as the signature... |
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Benriach 25 yo 1998/2023 (57.4%, Hunter Laing, Old & Rare, Platinum, refill oloroso butt, cask #HL20597, 234 bottles) 
I always remember the first time we spotted this series in a display case, the Ardbeg, the Glendullan... The prices seemed mad to us, but it was another era when crossing the £100 mark (or euros, whichever) seemed like the height of presumption. Yes, we should have bought everything...Colour: dark gold. Nose: not that many mangos, bananas, mirabelles and dandelions (as I recall them from those 1976s), rather some nutty and floral sherry, around walnut liqueur, peonies, wisteria and pansies, with a certain balsamico-side too. It feels a little mashed-up this far, but water may make wonders. With water: leaves and leather at first, then clay, rain pit, mutton suet, ham, paraffin, and then clearly pure oloroso. That side would then grow and grow and grow, in the end you're left with a proper glass of oloroso. Mouth (neat): really very punchy, shock-full of walnuts in all their guises, with some pepper, zests, bay leaves, chillies, some tobacco bitterness… I find it pretty rustic and rather hot, in fact. With water: there, walnuts and menthol in majesty, plus a growing salinity. It incredible how this works, but this baby took its time. Finish: long, very salty, nutty, vegetal, then meaty again. More mutton, chorba… Comments: it takes its time and it takes water, be warned, then it will earn 1 point per minute, really.
SGP:552 - 87 points. |
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Benriach 24 yo 1997/2021 (59.4%, malt grain & cane, hogshead, cask #7337, 197 bottles) 
We're in Singapore this time. I remember we've tasted some great rums by malt grain & cane. Colour: gold. Nose: chalk and fresh croissants in the morning, then dandelions indeed, potpourri, yeasts, thick Belgian beers, fermenting plums, mead and honey, umeshu, sake… Boy do I enjoy this. With water: it's now just chalky, with hints of grapefruit and these famous mirabelles. Hops. Mouth (neat): 'strordinary arrival on more Belgian beers, overripe bananas, many doughs, breads, rolls, creamy jams, fermenting fruits, wines, more beers, oils… Wow wow wow. With water: dazzling citrus, liqueurs, saps and resins, oils, malt, menthol… I find it glorious and its very comfortable in water, you could even bring it down to 30% without a frown. Finish: long, probably more classic Benriach now, with melons, bananas, mirabelle jam… Some mint and a touch of camphor in the aftertaste. Comments: lovable Benriach. Now go find this one…
SGP:651 - 90 points. |
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Benriach 25 yo 1995/2020 (49.1%, Maltbarn, sherry, 140 bottles)
These old black-and-white photographs that Maltbarn were having on their labels for a while were superb. Colour: straw. Nose: not that much sherry at first sniffs, rather more chalk, clay, wool and doughs. Then indeed melon skins, plums, cassata, angelica, citron liqueur, beer (pilsner) and… Still not much sherry, or was it refill fino or something like that? Mouth: closer to the 1997 but with a little less profoundness, some slightly sour minerality, some grass, peel, lemon oil, porridge, old cloth… Finish: rather long, grassy and fermentary, think porridge with dops of lemon juice. Oh and malt whisky. Comments: no, it's really very good, it was just a little tough to come after the rather resounding 1997. Still very upper-echelon.
SGP:561 - 86 points. |
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Benriach 30 yo 1991/2023 (51.2%, La Maison du Whisky, Artist #13, second-fill sherry butt, cask #64182) 
I love these labels, but indeed we do not do them justice with our ueber-lousy little pixies. Colour: gold. Nose: classic Benriach this time, with ripe mirabelles, melons, mango jam, chamomile, bananas, malt, custard tarte, finger biscuits and, while we're at it, Champagne blanc-de-blanc. Whisky by Pol? With water: this Champagne side remains, except that its older Champagne. Toasted bread, acacia, peaches, honeysuckle, citron… Mouth (neat): classic Benriach indeed, with a few sour(ish) yellow plums, acacia and elderberry liqueurs, ripe passion fruit (or as jam?) and just bananas flambéed. With water: we're very close to the older officials. Water brings the citrus further out. Finish: medium, very fruity, still elegant, floral, rather refreshing. Mucho acacia honey in the aftertaste, as well as sultanas and drops of fig arrack. Comments: not too sure about that fig arrack. Awesome Benriach, so close to the 90-mark, blame it on that arrack.
SGP:651 - 89 points. |
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Benriach 40 yo 'The Forty' (43.5%, OB, bourbon and Port, 752 bottles, 2023)
The official website states that it's a peated malt whisky, which is very possible as I believe owners Seagram were doing such experiments indeed in the late 1970s and/or early 1980s, as they were also doing at Strathisla. There's also a variant finished in octaves, but this is the proper Forty. We had tried the previous Forty that they were having in the 2000s but I don't think I've ever written any notes about it. There. Colour: dark apricot – was it finished in Port? Nose: ah, those vintages. Mangos, cherries, peaches, rosehip tea, heather and heather honey, nectarines, zwetschke, tamarind, prunes… all that with a dazzling lightness. Forgot to mention a little patchouli. Having said that, I'm not finding a lot of 'peat'. Was it one of those experiments with peated water such as Craigduff or Glenisla? Doubt it, those were not this good… Mouth: something else, clearly. Some old Port indeed, probably, but it could also be sweet Malaga, PX etc. Some thickish Chambertin, massive cherries (I mean massive notes of candied cherries), the moistest pipe tobacco, red peach jam, more zwetschke, very old Slivovitz… Having said that, we remain reminded of Benriach's most sherried old vintages, with some Mon Chéri and other chocolaty and guilty pleasures. And then, perhaps, some resinous peat or something, pinewood smoke, barbecued rosemary and thyme, fir needles… Finish: long and curiously drier. More pine, more morello cherries. Chocolate in the aftertaste – right, Mon Chéri. Comments: very much a Christmas malt. Not 100% sure how they made it, it's a little hard to decipher, but naturally, it is splendid.
SGP:662 - 91 points. |
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