And how about we try some Secret Orkney


December 11, 2023

And how about we try some
Secret Orkney?

Would we stumble upon some Scapas? You never know, let's see… What's more we'll do this in a completely random organised manner, if you agree. And, ideas-ideas, we could even throw in a few true HPs here and there. But beware, we currently have zillions of them…

Old Orkney Whisky 13 yo (50%, Decadent Drinks, 2023)

I think it was great move to acquire this old brand, a.k.a O.O. or Double-O, formerly used by and for Stromness Distillery. Naturally, they couldn't bottle any Stromness anymore, but I know the spirit is there. Colour: straw. Nose: let's try to get Stromness, which we've tried two or three times, out of our head. This is rather on ink and porridge, beach bonfire, seawater, gherkin brine, olives indeed, oysters, embrocations, menthol-based ointments… To add that this is maritime would be an understatement. With water: it's really peatier and more coastal than your average whisky 'from the island'. Also lovely whiffs of Scottish rainwater - which they have plenty of, as we all know. Mouth (neat): lemons and peat, more olives and gherkins, something 'from Skye' (how bizarre), more oysters and mussels, pepper… With water: a tad sweeter, around marmalade, but other than that it's is one of those fatter sauvignons blancs, made whisky. Finish: long, salty, coastal. Oysters and a dollop of grapefruit liqueur. Comment: it is so great to see a legendary old brand being revived with gusto and no pachydermic moves (as seen elsewhere). I'd even swear there are echoes of Stromness, so presto, one more point just because of that.
SGP:564 - 90 points.

Secret Orkney 15 yo 2007/2022 (48.6%, The Whisky Agency for RIFA, Taiwan, hogshead, cask #7, 222 bottles)

Taiwan's really become a crazy country, whisky-wise. Colour: light gold. Nose: we're closer to the core of HP, with more honey, mead, kippers, overripe apples, sea spray, puréed chestnuts, dried figs… Was it a refill sherry hogshead? Mouth: we're reminded of the best batches of the official 18, really. A lot of demerara sugar, salty soups and sauces, dried figs, a touch of salted caramel fudge, then old mead, the trademark heather honey… You would have believed this cask was sourced straight from the Distillery (but in the 1980s, ha). Finish: long, honeyed and salty. Comment: pure 'official' HP, really. No variants, no simplifications, no deviances. Well, in the name of Al-Jaber, this session is already too fast and high!…
SGP:553 - 90 points.

Unnamed Orkney 16 yo 2006/2022 (46%, Van Wees, The Ultimate, refill butt, cask #DRU17/A65)

I think they were playing Battleships when they decided on the number for this butt. Colour: full gold. Nose: it's a mellower one, rather on fudge, shortbread, butterscotch, barley sugar, Golden Grahams, then dunnage and 'old hessian bags lying in the cellar'. Mead is obvious too, as well as hints of old sweet wine. Mouth: the saltiness kicking in, together with broths and soups, some earthiness, stewed root vegetables, touch of good sulphur (candlewax-like), a drop of sweetened leek soup, a drop of Islay malt… Well, anything an old butt could provide us with. No 'clear line' here, but there is a comfortable Sunday-afternoon-feel to it. Finish: rather long, spicier, more peppery. Chocolate in the aftertaste. Comment: a bit jumbled but still jivy, so this time again, we'll declare we're rather pleased. Indeed it was a little hard to come after the OO and the TWA.
SGP:552 - 83 points.

Secret Orkney 13 yo 2009/2023 (46%, Signatory Vintage, Un-chillfiltered Collection, refill hogshead, cask #DRU17/A67 9/10/13/21)

Have you seen the cask number? They're taking the mickey out of us, it won't go down like that, let's fight back! Colour: pale white wine. Nose: saccharose, apple liqueur (manzana), drop of pastis, fennel, mashed potatoes, porridge, pot ale… It's not on the nose that everything is happening, apparently… Mouth: more HPness, peat, sour wines, seawater, lime juice, and a feeling of Scottish T-punch that's not totally unpleasant. It's raw and unpolished but on the other hand, that may be its main asset. Malt whisky for the countryside. Finish: rather long but curiously sugary, once more. Sweet beers and limoncello… Comment: 1. buy a house in the Scottish countryside and 2. bring this bottle and invite neighbours. As we all know, our dear Scottish friends (love you all) will drink anything just because they always manage to intellectualize any of their own products. Even Irn Bru.
SGP:552 - 82 points.

Orkney Distillery 19 yo 2002/2022 (54.3%, Chorlton Whisky, Nouvelle Vague, hogshead, 324 bottles)

Chorlton, some of the nicest, most peaceful labels (and whiskies) in town. Colour: straw. Nose: all right, it is one of those pure, yet oily, yet pretty mineral HPs. Sunflower oil, lamp oil, linseed, lemon zests, chalk, metal polish, fresh engine oil, lemon juice, seaweed… How very HP! With water: moves towards vegetables, cabbage perhaps, damp magazines, ink… Very Nouvelle Vague indeed, not much is truly traditional here. Mouth (neat): some deviant notes at first (around plasticine and 7UP) but those are soon to become moderate assets, should you not be afraid of strange oils and other thicker substances. Like lavender liqueur. With water: do-not-add-any-water, unless you've got a doctorate in nuclear chemistry. Finish: long, still on plastics, stearin, lavender oil, rubber and… well, the name escapes me. Glue, perhaps? Scotch tape? Comment: It's strange, for sure, but it's also amusing. Political whisky, almost. Score for my own record only.
SGP:362 - 78 points.

An Orkney Distillery 17 yo 2005/2022 (60.3%, The Dava Way, hogshead, 300 bottles)

This from Bimber's own range of indie malt whiskies. Colour: gold. Nose: an easy, citrus-led, slightly coastal style, pretty tight, clean, smoky, mineral, earthy, all that even at full strength. With water: gets a tad acetic. Lemon juice, drop of cider vinegar, a little nail polish remover… Mouth (neat): rich mineral and waxy arrival, then peppers and capsicum, smoke, greasy soups… With water: a salty blast, stones, rocks and sands, lemons… and elastoplasts. Just apples in the background. Finish: rather long, with some plasticine and salty waters. We've got one in France called Vichy. Not a very nice name. A drop of vinegar in the aftertaste. Comment: a fattish natural HP. Some strangeness and some mysteries, and I like this punk aspect rather a lot.
SGP:462 - 86 points.