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| Hi, this is one of our (almost) daily tastings. Santé! |
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October 3, 2023 |
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Little Duos, today crazy old Glenlivet
The distillery's been expanded and transformed many times over the decades and centuries, so it's not obvious to compare different expressions from different eras, but today we'll have an old 1963 and a fairly new 1949, how does that sound? Both archclassics, I suppose…
Scottish Shilling, 1949 (Online Coin Club)
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Glenlivet 29 yo 1963/1992 (52.1%, Signatory Vintage, cask #269-270, 500 bottles) 
We've briefly tried this one back in 2005, but from another bottle. Any excuses and no shame, as always… Colour: brown amber. Nose: one of these heavier sherry casks that Signatory Vintage were having back then, this is fully on chocolate and prunes, millionaire shortbread, wood smoke, tarmac, espresso, umami sauce, old balsamico, with a lot of old rancio wine, bags and bags of toffee, and just a small mustiness, old wine cellar, mushrooms… With water: many more mushrooms, dunnage, chocolate mint, more wood smoke yet… Mouth (neat): extremely rich. It would be interesting to know if some Scots didn't distill Mars bars at some point. Toffee, chocolate, mocha, a little marmalade, Jaffa cake, black raisins, a little very old sweet PX… We think of those soleras started in the 19th century. With water: waxes and paraffin popping out, together with some cracked pepper. That would add even more body to this crazy, yet elegant sherry bomb. Finish: very long, on prunes, old armagnac (as often with these sherry bombs) and old oak and strong black tea. Some greasiness in the aftertaste. Comments: an old style that slowly came out of fashion, sadly. Quicker finishings seem to be the norm these days.
SGP:562 - 91 points. |

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Glenlivet 74 yo 1949/2023 (49.3%, Gordon & MacPhail, Private Collection, refill sherry butt, cask #11, 192 bottles) 
Gordon & MacPhail have almost accustomed us to these incredible competition whiskies that could also go directly into the display cases of museums in Glasgow or Edinburgh. Having had the distinguished luck to have tasted several already, what is most striking is that you feel like they have been matured, almost raised; they didn't just leave them lingering in a corner, tasting them every ten years. Perhaps they never bottled some, or even just poured them down the drain, but I have never tasted a very old G&M whisky that had truly passed its peak, its optimum. Incredible. Moreover, as you are fortunate enough to age, it becomes increasingly delightful, in every way, to be able to taste a spirit that is much older than you. Colour: full gold. Great news already. Nose: the freshness is just incredible. Actually, it's all on various honeys and waxes, pollens, nectars, dried figs, polished old furniture and old leather, and one of the greatest vintages of Yquem. Yes, I know. You might add touches of tropical fruit jams and whiffs of fern and moss. This is highly impressive, the maturity is splendid while there are no single signs of over-aging. Not one. Mouth: bags and bags of citrusy and waxy herbs have kept it as fresh as a 12 yo Clynelish (do not exaggerate, S.) Think yellow chartreuse and old Bénédictine, plus the subtlest mead and a drop of elderflower liqueur. In the background, myriads of assorted herbal and fruity molecules are dancing an endless jig. You'd even find notes of very old rums, such as G&M's famous and quasi-surreal Long Pond 1941. Finish: long. Remember what they say, one second per year, so that's 74 seconds, more than one minute! Notes of piney raisins in the aftertaste. Comments: not sure we should add anything, this is almost a statement. The art of raising whisky casks epitomised.
SGP:672 - 93 points. |
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